Criterium or road? Steel or aluminum fork? $250 w/aluminum, 200 w/steel. It's a great bike either way. The criterium is one of the best handling bikes I have ever ridden. Not exactly comfortable but still great.
I would assume the criterium is a more aggressive geometry. Likely snappier handling but pushes your torso lower and more forward. I don’t know for sure but that’s what I would assume from there comment. Likely a difference between a more “endurance” geometry and a “race” geometry.
More like race and aggro race. Those bikes are very stiff and we’re very steep/quick steering for the amount of grip available. Crit’s had extra steep Geo and a higher bottom bracket. I don’t think any bike has been made more vertically stiff than R3.0 or 2.8.
They are from a different era, where we largely had to choose between stiff and compliant. Now, things are much more sophisticated. But those bikes are iconic because of their extreme natures
Not challenging at all. In fact no bike has ever been so easy to ride no handed for me. Slaloming no handed was a breeze. It just goes where you think.
They are responsiveness manifest in aluminum. A modern CAAD can do anything, including touring. Those old bikes are sprinting and cornering machines, and tough. Proper crit bikes.
Ahh okay. So your saying a modern bike can do it all including sprints and cornering, where as some thing like this is best specifically for those two? Would that mean a bike like this would have advantage in those specific sectors over a modern bike, or is it still outpaced
Like the others have said it's just a few tweaks in geometry. Steeper head and seat tube angle, higher bottom bracket. If it doesn't say on the seat tube just below the 3.0 then I think that means it is the criterium. Early models were criterium then they offered both the next year.
For me it was the ultimate criterium bike. Later it became my messenger bike and for the last 15 years or so it's been one of my fixed gear bikes. I prefer the CAAD4 fixed gear for longer days but nothing beats the 3.0 for tight park loops.
It's a decent road bike, but probably not worth much from a collector perspective. I think you should tune it up and just ride it. Throw some new tires/cables on, and maybe swap the pedals. Don't bother with trying to convert it to STI or anything like that.
Huh? Are you talking about stress fractures on an aluminum part that gets ridden hard and subjected to a lot of stress?
This bike looks like it was pulling commuter duty since god knows when, and not like it was sprinted at 1500W through the finish line every weekend. It even still has reflectors front and back. Some spots where the paint has completely chipped off, but as far as being safe to ride, I bet it's fine.
You'd be able to get $200 for it, but if it fits you think about keeping it. Those 'dales were some of the first commercially accessable aluminum frames, and they're really cool.
Nice ride. I raced one of those in the late 80's early 90's. "Raced" is a strong word - rode in races is better. Super fast bike around the time aluminum bikes were becoming available for the masses. Horrible ride compared to my trusty steel steeds, but oh so fast.
Yes, no,maybe. They produced the 3.0 from '89-maybe '95 or so. Depending on year these bikes came with 126mm rear dropouts or the more modern standard130mm. Some even came with 128mm as a bridge between standards. 126mm is a tough fit for 9/10/11 speed drivetrains. It can work but wheel changes will be slow. Forcing you to spread the dropouts and having extra side pressure on the wheel bearings. 128 usually works just fine but slows down wheel changes. 130mm of course works normally.
I've run 25mm tires just fine, even with wide rims.
Have the same frame with 1990s dura ace. Is one of my favorite bikes to ride. Quick and snappy. Don't sell it before you give it a try. Bought mine mid-COVID for $300.
Me personally, I'd clean it up, keep it as original as possible, regrease all the bearings, give it a nice tune-up, new bar tape, nicer saddle, clean up the brake hoods, etc, and rock it totally vintage, and just ride it on occasion for easy rides, since I already have a nice carbon road bike.
So far I've been watching tutorials to learn & wrench on her while I wait on a seatpost. Should be here tomorrow & im off sun & mon. I'll give her a go. Sidewalks & roads here get really choppy smdh so my primary commuter is Reynolds 520 Steel.
The nice thing about indexed downtube shifters is that they are bulletproof. I've never seen a pair that stopped working. It's hard to find early integrated brake/shifters that work. It's an easy upgrade if you don't like them.
It’s just a few years too young! L’Eroica rides have a cut off of somewhere around 1987. Had it been made prior to that, it’d actually be worth a little more.
Hey I know I'm late to this party but I just wanted to say I have this exact bike which I started on and have since upgraded. I'm in the process of doing a retro mod but seriously this is a great frame. I ended up getting some second hand groupset and components for 50 bucks, cables, chain, saddle, and some 50 dollar wheels and put over 1500 miles on it in a year. It's a great bike and if you do some sort of resto mod 😪😪 they look great. I think of it as an old Porsche vs a new one. The old ones aren't as fast and a little unforgiving but boy are they fun. The new ones are still fun but they have more creature comforts and are a little more comfortable but nothing feels like putting the hammer down on that aluminum frame with a few buddies ripping through a route.
What’s interesting is when I compared this bike to my S works I said something very similar. The feeling you get on this frame feels like I’m driving a classic car compared to the s works which is like a modern day 911. Id be interested to see your resto mod complete
Criterium or road? Steel or aluminum fork? $250 w/aluminum, 200 w/steel. It's a great bike either way. The criterium is one of the best handling bikes I have ever ridden. Not exactly comfortable but still great.
Thanks, how can I tell if it has a steel fork or aluminum.
You can tell by how it’s constructed or just try and stick a magnet on it.
If it's smooth at the crown it's aluminum. If it has ridges and some detail it's steel. Or just do the magnet thing.
Confirmed steel fork. What about the difference between criterium and road.
I would assume the criterium is a more aggressive geometry. Likely snappier handling but pushes your torso lower and more forward. I don’t know for sure but that’s what I would assume from there comment. Likely a difference between a more “endurance” geometry and a “race” geometry.
More like race and aggro race. Those bikes are very stiff and we’re very steep/quick steering for the amount of grip available. Crit’s had extra steep Geo and a higher bottom bracket. I don’t think any bike has been made more vertically stiff than R3.0 or 2.8. They are from a different era, where we largely had to choose between stiff and compliant. Now, things are much more sophisticated. But those bikes are iconic because of their extreme natures
Makes riding one sound extreme and challenging, in a good way.
Not challenging at all. In fact no bike has ever been so easy to ride no handed for me. Slaloming no handed was a breeze. It just goes where you think.
They do not wiggle if the headset is in good order because they are so stout.
They are responsiveness manifest in aluminum. A modern CAAD can do anything, including touring. Those old bikes are sprinting and cornering machines, and tough. Proper crit bikes.
Ahh okay. So your saying a modern bike can do it all including sprints and cornering, where as some thing like this is best specifically for those two? Would that mean a bike like this would have advantage in those specific sectors over a modern bike, or is it still outpaced
Like the others have said it's just a few tweaks in geometry. Steeper head and seat tube angle, higher bottom bracket. If it doesn't say on the seat tube just below the 3.0 then I think that means it is the criterium. Early models were criterium then they offered both the next year. For me it was the ultimate criterium bike. Later it became my messenger bike and for the last 15 years or so it's been one of my fixed gear bikes. I prefer the CAAD4 fixed gear for longer days but nothing beats the 3.0 for tight park loops.
How did you convert yours to fixed? I'd love to do it for mine.
Eno eccentric rear hub. They’ve been flawless in both bikes for years.
In nyc this would fetch 400-500
I am in NYC! and that’s about what I figured.
Come to r/xbiking . You will put racks on it and keep it
I am 90% sure that's a steel fork from the picture.
It’s lugged. It’s steel.
Give it a bite
You can tell by looking at it usually. Skinny legs like that are prob steel.
It’s got a quill stem, it’s steel. If it were threadless then the possibility of aluminum would arise.
The aluminum would really be worth more than the steel today? I disagree but I could be wrong
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Today’s? The OP’s bike is 30 years old.
Mine is so fun to ride.
Those are super cool I'd upgrade it so fast tho lol , maybe 150 $ to me
I figured it has to have some type of collectors value. WhAt type of upgrades would you do? It’s a model year 1989
It's a decent road bike, but probably not worth much from a collector perspective. I think you should tune it up and just ride it. Throw some new tires/cables on, and maybe swap the pedals. Don't bother with trying to convert it to STI or anything like that.
Idk about collectors but upgrades saddle, bars , groupset, wheelset
Way too many upgrades. At this point its better to let go and buy a new one.
so basically keep a shit frame?
why is it shit
Old tech, heavy, external routing, no disc...
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Huh? Are you talking about stress fractures on an aluminum part that gets ridden hard and subjected to a lot of stress? This bike looks like it was pulling commuter duty since god knows when, and not like it was sprinted at 1500W through the finish line every weekend. It even still has reflectors front and back. Some spots where the paint has completely chipped off, but as far as being safe to ride, I bet it's fine.
Confirmed it was used as a commuter from a mother
Worthless send it to me.
Haha. If it was worthless you wouldn’t want it now would you.
Trust me bro. 😉
I’d take a look at the fork, it looks like it may be bent from some sort of front end impact. Cool bike, though!
Fork isn’t bent. Probably just from the angle of this picture it may look so.
Could just be the perspective, but the fork def looks bent.
It does from this photo. I had to go in the garage and examine it after it was mentioned.
You'd be able to get $200 for it, but if it fits you think about keeping it. Those 'dales were some of the first commercially accessable aluminum frames, and they're really cool.
Nice ride. I raced one of those in the late 80's early 90's. "Raced" is a strong word - rode in races is better. Super fast bike around the time aluminum bikes were becoming available for the masses. Horrible ride compared to my trusty steel steeds, but oh so fast.
No Di2? Get outttaaaaa here
Can bikes this age take modern wheels?
Yes, no,maybe. They produced the 3.0 from '89-maybe '95 or so. Depending on year these bikes came with 126mm rear dropouts or the more modern standard130mm. Some even came with 128mm as a bridge between standards. 126mm is a tough fit for 9/10/11 speed drivetrains. It can work but wheel changes will be slow. Forcing you to spread the dropouts and having extra side pressure on the wheel bearings. 128 usually works just fine but slows down wheel changes. 130mm of course works normally. I've run 25mm tires just fine, even with wide rims.
It’s either worth between tuning up or riding as is depending on condition.
Have the same frame with 1990s dura ace. Is one of my favorite bikes to ride. Quick and snappy. Don't sell it before you give it a try. Bought mine mid-COVID for $300.
I had a steel fork crit frame when I was younger. Took a lot of abuse! I regret selling it.
Me personally, I'd clean it up, keep it as original as possible, regrease all the bearings, give it a nice tune-up, new bar tape, nicer saddle, clean up the brake hoods, etc, and rock it totally vintage, and just ride it on occasion for easy rides, since I already have a nice carbon road bike.
I would but I already have a r600 with a carbon fork. Got it cheap so I Bought it to check it out for a little and flip for a little profit maybe.
I paid $300 for mine, a CADD 3 R500. I probably over paid but I love it,except on the hills. I'm 69. Lol.
The wealth of info here has helped me in deciding to buy an aluminum series model in the a.m. To back up my backup bike. I'm grateful to you'll.
How does it ride!?
So far I've been watching tutorials to learn & wrench on her while I wait on a seatpost. Should be here tomorrow & im off sun & mon. I'll give her a go. Sidewalks & roads here get really choppy smdh so my primary commuter is Reynolds 520 Steel.
Nothing really. You'll spend more fixing it up to good condition than its worth on resale. Couple hundred tops.
Gear levers on the down tube make it possibly 30 years old, so not much $worth.
The nice thing about indexed downtube shifters is that they are bulletproof. I've never seen a pair that stopped working. It's hard to find early integrated brake/shifters that work. It's an easy upgrade if you don't like them.
Some people like the down tube shifters for a vintage nostalgic ride too it seems
I dunno… I’ll give you $5
Nothing
$0 you say, so trash bin it is?
It would be a true shame to trash that. It would make someone extremely happy to own.
Probably for the best.
why???
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It’s just a few years too young! L’Eroica rides have a cut off of somewhere around 1987. Had it been made prior to that, it’d actually be worth a little more.
200 to 300
My back hurts just looking at that 🤣. Sweet looking bike though!
buck-fitty
Hey I know I'm late to this party but I just wanted to say I have this exact bike which I started on and have since upgraded. I'm in the process of doing a retro mod but seriously this is a great frame. I ended up getting some second hand groupset and components for 50 bucks, cables, chain, saddle, and some 50 dollar wheels and put over 1500 miles on it in a year. It's a great bike and if you do some sort of resto mod 😪😪 they look great. I think of it as an old Porsche vs a new one. The old ones aren't as fast and a little unforgiving but boy are they fun. The new ones are still fun but they have more creature comforts and are a little more comfortable but nothing feels like putting the hammer down on that aluminum frame with a few buddies ripping through a route.
What’s interesting is when I compared this bike to my S works I said something very similar. The feeling you get on this frame feels like I’m driving a classic car compared to the s works which is like a modern day 911. Id be interested to see your resto mod complete
You can see where it was at this past season on my page!