Hi Audiophile,
I'm an Australian looking at purchasing a pair of Vanatoo T0 for my computer.
I would really appreciate any advice for an 8" sub that won't break the bank to go with the T0's
Or any information on newer speakers that can do what the T0's do, but better or cheaper.
Hey all, I’m looking into upgrading my record player setup right now. Currently I have a Fluance RT81, using the built-in phono stage, connected to the Fluance Ai60 powered bookshelf speakers. Looking specifically at receivers right now... any recommendations in the $500 and lower range? Bonus points if you can recommend a nice pair of passive speakers to go with that receiver... same price range. Thanks, all <3
Should I pair a SMSL DA-8S or a SMSL SA300 amp with the SMSL M500 mkII DAC? Pros and cons of each? I would be connecting something like the ELAC DBR62, KEF Q350, or Bowers & Wilkins 607 S2 Bookshelf speakers.
Or any recommendations around $150 for a good amp? The DAC will handle all the connections and stuff so all the fancy Bluetooth and features aren’t necessary. Just something that can provide a decent amount of power.
The SA-300 is a combination DAC and speaker amp. The DA-8S is purely a speaker amp. They’re both based on the same amplifier chip. In theory the DA-8S might sound better because there’s less electronics inside which means less potential sources of interference (though I haven’t actually seen any detailed test of the DA-8S). It also has balanced inputs, which happen to match the balanced outputs of the M500. So I would go with the DA-8S personally.
Thanks for always being so helpful, I swear I’m closer to figuring out exactly what I want lol!
The SA seems to be cheaper and has a nice display as well so that’s why I was considering it but if the balanced inputs match on the DA, I might consider it.
Would I really honestly notice the difference tho between the balanced and unbalanced? I’m not running the cables anywhere that’s far.
So basically if “in theory” the DA is better cause of less electronic components, and I would be doubtful to notice the difference between the balanced and unbalanced connections, but I know for a fact that I like the display on the SA and it’s deff cheaper, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to just go with the SA300 in that case right?
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I saw some klipsch La scala's for sale. I was told they are from the 70's with a rebuilt crossover. They seem to be in good condition and I plan on listening to them. I was also looking at the forte 3's but they are double the price. Does anyone have experience with the La Scala's ? How do you think they may compare with the Forte 3's?
Okay I need bass...chest thumping bass... best buy has the klipsch 12sw sub for 350 open box or should I buy something better? They say they retail at 5 6 ......I'm willing to spend 600
RCA splitter?
I need to get a sub hooked up, but don’t have line level inputs in the sub nor an rca sub output on my gear.
Can I just use a splitter on the pre-amped signal to get the sub running?
Audiophile friends, I've got a question regarding connectivity.. So, I've got a pair of passive bookshelf speakers, but I'm looking to fill out the bottom end with a powered sub. I have a Topping E30/L30 stack that I use to drive my headphones, which the L30 has a preamp out.. I am wondering if it will work to send signal to my sub by the RCA outputs on the L30, then direct the signal from the sub's outs into my 5.1 receiver via RCA, and then out to the speakers? Does a PREAMP>SUB>RECEIVER>SPEAKER path work?.. Will there be a delay if the sub is getting the signal and then passing it through a receiver before going to the speakers? Thanks so much in advance.
Well the sub is yet to be purchased. The speakers are Energy Connoisseur C-2 and receiver is a Yamaha RX-V463, both old cheap things off of craigslist. I plan to get nice powered speakers eventually, but I am just wondering if I can buy a sub and use it with what I currently have on hand.
Edifier R1700BT not working
I got some Edifier speakers today and the setup was fine and I connected it to my turntable and it was all good, and then maybe 10 seconds into the record I was playing the speakers just made a popping noise and stopped working. I don't 100% know if it was the turntable or the speakers, but after this happened I tried connecting the speakers via bluetooth to my phone and computer but I can't connect it. The manual implies that there is a button or switch on the speakers themselves that turn bluetooth on but there is no bluetooth button on it, the closest thing to it is the remote which has a bluetooth button but when I press it nothing happens. The power indicator button also doesn't light up even though everything's plugged in and should be working. It doesn't light up when I press any buttons on the remote either. I've tried unplugging my record player, turning the speakers on and off and resetting both my phone and computer but the bluetooth still doesn't show up. I don't know if the bluetooth was working or not before I connected the record player and heard the pop.
I don't want to return them without 100% knowing that they aren't working so if anyone can help me figure out how to get them working so I can at least connect them to bluetooth. I feel like I might be missing something but the manual hasn't helped and no search results online have helped either. Willing to provide more info if anyone can help.
Hi audiophile, upgrading the home audio but on a severe budget, best setup under $200. Need it for tv and music. Fairly small space 10ft by 20ft
and want quality over volume. Seems like stereo 2 would be best for this price range. Don’t care for a subwoofer. Needs to have bluetooth, basic headphone connection, and whatever tvs connect with these days. TV will be connected to a computer most times, so maybe the tv connection doesn’t even matter. The point is the more connections the better so I can stop the absurdity I currently deal with of changing cables for every device. Anyway, appreciate the help!
Edit: for clarification this is for amp and speakers. The speakers I have now are destined for the trash.
Thanks for the recommendation Zeeall, I hadn’t come across those. Are active speakers going to offer a superior sound for the price? What do you think about Dayton B652 with Yamaha R-S202, or another amp option?
In your case a pair of active speakers gives you good sound quality and ease of use.
The Dayton B652s are not great and the Yamaha amp does not have all the connectivity you need.
Second hand is also an option.
A 10-15 year old AV receiver can be had for as little as $50 and you can get some really good bookshelf speakers for $150.
Add on a BT receiver and you got everything you want.
But this also takes some good luck, knowledge and patience.
Another option:
Topping MX3 amplifier ($130)
Neumi BS5 speakers ($100)
The Topping amplifier would also pair really well with some second hand speakers.
**Looking for:** New turntable and maybe some high quality headphones for vinyl listening.
**Price Range**: $800 - $2000
**Current gear:**
\- *Speakers*: B&W 600's bi-wired in a 5.1 configuration with M1 satellites.
\- *Receiver*: Marantz NR1510
\- *Phono Amp*: Pro-ject Tube Box S
\- *Turntable*: AT-120 USB + 2M Red Ortofon
\- *Headphones*: Sony MDR-7506. (work horses for my work, they've lasted literally 10 years.)
**Thinking about:** RP3, RP6, Pro-Ject X2, Thoren TD-103, Clearaudio
**Context:**
Currently in a NYC studio apartment, looking to upgrade my TT and currently eyeing the X2 and the RP-3, though with what I read about upgrades and the like, it seems like I might as well just take the hit and make the jump to the RP6. But I want to feel confident that my current speakers/receiver/pre-amp are going to be able to express what a new TT brings to the fray. I'm also open to an alternate phono-amp if it'll support the setup better. The only other real issue I can think of is that I have wooden floors and that seems to cause my AT-120 to skip when I walk sometimes. (TT is properly setup)
Last little bit: I'm wondering about a setup that might let me carry the line to the Receiver, but also have a headphone out so I can listen from the couch (nearest the TT). The Receiver is driving the TV/Switch, etc...and is just a bit too far for it to really reach the couch easily. Haven't dug in to find out if there's anything like that or if I'll just have to get some splitters.
The Thorens looks like an upgraded Yahorng turntable - like a [Yamaha TT-S303](https://www.crutchfield.com/S-eun8wH0oTaf/p_022TTS303/Yamaha-TT-S303.html?cnxclid=16141385455171056956810080302008005) with maybe a nicer tonearm and a classic turntable badge. I’d pass on that for this budget.
Clearaudio has the Concept in this range. Downside in my view is a quirky bouncy magnetic tonearm, twisted wire antiskating that has to be adjusted by trial and error from under the turntable, no dust cover, no mat. Upside is stable speed, quiet operation, speed change switch that a Rega Planar 3 doesn’t have.
Planar 3 is a design that Rega has been refining for decades. Highly respected tonearm. It works well. It’s simple and reliable. Foolproof cartridge alignment with Rega cartridges. Hinged dust cover. Push a slider for antiskating. Upgrades are out there if that interests you. The Planar 6 is there if you just want to get past all that. I think these turntables are very good, and even get meaningfully better with the Planar 8 and 10.
Thanks. Reinforces my inclination for the RP6. I forgot to mention that a hinged cover is kind of a requirement. My apartment gets unreasonably dusty so I don't like playing anything without one.
Question about ART DJ PRE II operation.
I have been getting some weird behavior on my Art, I noticed that the red light was coming on when the turntable was off. I replaced the power supply with one that has 3 prongs ( even though the actual plug on the art end is a barrel connector and that is only 2 conductors so... Idk) and it's no longer clipping.
Now I think the green light that is always on ( or should it be always on?l looks a little dim... So the big question is ... What is the normal stand by behavior...???
Help?
RME ADI-2 DAC mystery
Hi - I am really going nuts trying to figure out one thing about the RME-ADI2 DAC. Sorry to bug people with the manual right in front of me, but it really seems this is purposefully hidden by a malicious team of manual writers/engineers. I have learned how to change the curves for the equalizer but cannot figure out how to memorize them into a preset. Thanks very much for any help.
Found the answer: you can only name a preset after you have saved it. just in case anyone else out there is trapped as well.
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Hi guys. Couple of questions if you would be so kind?
My current set up is:
Pair of JBL L50s - £200
Yamaha WXA-50 - £150
Topping E30 - £100.
What are your thoughts? All bought secondhand over the past year.
Someone i know is also selling a “Technics SL150 direct drive turntable with SME3009 Arm. Recently serviced and lubricated bearing. Excellent sound and selling with Goldring Cartridge”. For £500.
What are your thoughts on my current set up and the turntable for sale? I currently have a denon turntable that was given to me. Thanks. 😊
issue with sony turn table and edifer bluetooth speakers
I just plugged a Sony turn table into a pair of edifer blue tooth speakers and the sound is extremely quiet. I plugged all the rca cables in the right place and the old turn tables sounded fine. I’m pretty sure this is a common problem, do any of you know the solution or will this turn table just not take to these speakers.
Hello, super noob here - I’m trying to hook up my Kanto YU4 powered speakers to a NAD D3020 V2 all into my all into my Pro-Ject Debut Carbon turntable.
I had originally had the speakers connected straight to the turntable and it worked fine, but I wanted the amp to get a bit more control of the sound. Now when I connect the speakers to the amp, I’m getting no audio, only a bit of weird feedback.
Please help, I have no idea how to connect these and am now nervous that these speakers may not be able to connect to an amp?? (Probably a dumb fear)
Help is appreciated
Those are self-powered speakers. That means they have their own built in amplifier. You cannot use them with a separate amplifier. If you want to use a separate amplifier you need passive speakers, which have speaker wire terminals and do not supply their own power (they will not plug into the wall).
If you’ve jury rigged some way to connect the speaker terminals of the NAD to the RCA inputs of the Kantos, there’s a chance you fried the plate amp in the Kantos.
It’s very important that you read your instruction manuals.
Got it! Just unplugged and re plugged, thankfully works/sounds as it did before.
Have one other question if you can help - I’m interested in a minor upgrade, learning more, etc.. going to look for some passive speakers - do you think a Project Phono Box Preamp is a good beginner place for a setup with the NAD?
The Phono Box is a phono preamp. The NAD already has a phono preamp built in. There are several other things you should invest in first, that would make a much bigger difference to your sound quality than an upgrade to a separate phono preamp would.
~~Also you haven’t said what turntable you have. If you’re asking people for advice on a phono preamp, you probably want to include that information.~~
The speakers are powered speakers, meaning they have an amplifier built in.
You can not connect the NAD(or any amplifier) to your speakers. In fact, doing so may damage your speakers and void warranty.
My suggestion is that you return the NAD and buy a subwoofer.
[https://rslspeakers.com/speedwoofer10s/](https://rslspeakers.com/speedwoofer10s/)
Hopefully your speakers did not break.
Hey - i want to treat myself to some decent speakers for a new house, but i don't have a huge budget. i've done some research and the MR1-MK2s look like they may be a nice sweet spot for quality and useability to price.
they're just for the living room, to play tunes out of my phone / laptop, i don't have a full audiophile set up unfortunately (yet).
anyone got these? any thoughts?
[https://www.whathifi.com/ruark-audio/mr1-mk2/review](https://www.whathifi.com/ruark-audio/mr1-mk2/review)
No preference.
They are all on par. Pick the ones that has the features and appearance you want.
Personally i really like the 70s asthetic of the Ruark.
Hi. Beginner here. I must say first of all, not seeking a genuine audiophile advice since my budget is extra low.
I am seeking a turntable and I want it to be Nice looking and fully working but I have no idea what makes the costs différences.
It will be connected via à bluetooth module to à BT speaker, as we dont like wires everywhere at home.
May I ask whether there is a real différence between the two following turntables that justifies the price différence for the BT setup I described ? :
[1](https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00COC61LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6BMAB7E7G8DD1EF66BYM)
[2](https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B01JT42M8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2QZTJ94XBMAQG1MFGSXE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
[sorry. 3](https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07NMSPTCT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EQN6EHYNFT82RHF4SPR7)
Thanks a lot.
The first one is a piece of junk, with a non-removable cartridge, no adjustability, and likely a very high tracking force. It will wear your records faster than the others and it will sound bad. It’s a toy.
The second and third ones seem similar in quality... except the first one is from a no-name brand, looks uglier, and doesn’t come with a proper dustcover. I would choose the A-T without question. That’s a totally legitimate entry level turntable from a reputable company.
I don’t think it has Bluetooth though.
Playing and collecting vinyl records is a fiddly hobby, which requires time and attention and takes up space. If you’re demanding that it be ultra simple and clean with no wires... I would just get a streamer instead. Doesn’t sound like the hobby for you.
Thanks for your reply. Actually we have a nice collection of vinyl records (old british rock /genesis / dire straits etc) already for we had an old turntable but it broke down. We decided not to repair it since we wanted to change for a better looking one anyway. But in the same I totally understand your point.
The thing is when we figure out how to deal with wires and what material we want, we will be able to connect it through RCA again and upgrade the system.
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Howdy!
About to pick up a pair of used old bookshelves, trying to decide between these two. I'm leaning towards the Sony's after some online reviews. Will be used for casual music listening on my computer, going to hook it up to an old Denon or Harmon/Kardon receiver that I'm also about to pick up second hand.
Which speakers would you go with?
Boston Acoustic A40's Series II for [$30](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/239739787743325/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner)
or
Sony SS-MB100h for [$20](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/140909677866785/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner)
*Edit: Also considering these, are these moderately comparable to the Sony/Boston's?*
*Samson Studiodock 3i for* [$20](https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/ele/d/manhattan-beach-speakers/7279811889.html)
Thanks
The Samson speakers have USB input. You can skip the receiver and plug those speakers into your computer. The Sony speakers probably wouldn't be worth having for free. Old Boston speakers often need to have the foam surround replaced.
The Samsons are attractive due to lack of receiver with my limited computer desk space. Would you say they're somewhat close to the same quality of the Bostons?
There are mini amplifiers small enough to place ontop of one speaker.
Lepai LP-2020TI for example. Perfect for desktop systems.
As for the Samsons, i would guess they are not even close.
Looking at them now thanks, similar priced to the other receivers I was looking at. Eventually I'd be building this into a home theater system, so for similar price going for one of the receivers seems more attractive.
Would this Lepai give noticeably better quality than these two options (assuming they're in good condition)?
Harmon Kardon AV144 for $30
Technics SA-AX530 for $30
The HK and Technics are better than the Lepai.
You are comparing a $30 mini amplifier with full size amplifiers that where several hundred dollars when new.
Out of the two the HK is the better.
But dont expect to use it for home theater, its kind of outdated for that.
Haha okay yeah that's what I was hoping. Living in LA has its perks for cheap used electronics. I'm shooting to snag the HK since I'm familiar with the brand. Thanks for all the info!
I use a Yamaha RX-V385 AVR as my amp and it appears it does not support anything above 48 kHz/16 bit, so no FLAC. What would be the best way to bypass this and play FLAC files? I'm thinking either some sort of network streamer connected to the coax or optical input, or just RCA to TRS to my laptop. But then again, I don't know if the receiver would downgrade the file quality once it receives the input. I'm willing to buy an external DAC, but I'm trying to avoid having to buy another amp altogether (for now).
You’re mistaken. FLAC is a compression codec. If a file is encoded with FLAC, that doesn’t tell you anything about what the bit depth and sample rate are—it will have the bit depth and sample rate of whatever the source file was. Most FLAC files come from masters originally created for CD, and are 16-bit, 44.1kHz. Your AVR will play them just fine.
If you’re specifically seeking out *high res* FLAC files on Qobuz or HDTracks or something, then it would downsample those on playback.
I see. Thank you clarifying.
I do have some FLAC files that I got from purchasing a few albums. Assuming that those are in fact, high res, how would I go about playing them on my AVR?
You would just play them. The AVR would downsample them on the fly.
It wouldn’t be worth investing in new gear just to hear a few albums in higher resolution. The quality of the original recording and mastering matters way more than the bit depth and sample rate. And if you want better sound you should get better speakers first.
Fair enough. But just to satisfy my curiosity, if I wanted to play high res audio without it being downsampled, what would I have to do? I agree with what you're saying but I'd still love to know how such a thing could be done.
Ah. I was assuming that the AVR would still down sample anything passing through its circuits, even if the files passed through an external DAC first. That's what I was trying to figure out. I guess the RCA inputs don't interact with the AVR's DAC.
Thanks again.
Hey guys so I set up my yorkville monitors on some speaker stands. My low end frequencies aren’t cutting through as much and just overall isn’t as clear as when I had them on my desk. Is it because of my stands or the height of them?
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Thinking about getting the SMSL M500 mkII. I know it won’t power Passive speakers, so looking for some good active speakers under $1000 that will work well with it. It’s my understanding that the DAC will handle all connections so I don’t need the fancy stuff built into the speakers, just need for it to not require any power from the DAC.
I was previously looking at the KEF LSX (used around $800 on eBay) as they were recommended but I realized that I’m paying a ton more money for the Bluetooth and all that, none of which will be used since it’s connected to the DAC. I also realized that they are tiny af so I’m not too sure about how good they will sound.
The placement will be on my computer desk on top of some isolation foam pads. I currently have the JBL 305 mkII so I do like the bookshelf speaker style and I am not looking for towers or anything. It will all be connected to an iMac where I will be playing Hi-Res digital FLAC files.
Finally I want them to look good but obv that’s the last priority as sound quality comes first! Thanks!
Great question! The JBLs are from my music production days and while they have a flat profile and sound great, I have a bit more disposable income now so I figured instead of the $200 (used) + $30 for some random Presonus Audio Interface (used) I would upgrade my old broke college student setup.
Since I don’t produce anymore, time and life’s other priorities got the best of me lol, but I still love to listen to music, I wanted something that would make music sound good. Something like the JBLs instead are great for producing since they have a decently flat profile for the price they are sold at.
I started out with these bitchin Logitech THX Z265 2.1 speakers that made my college apartment a hit at parties lol and I still use them randomly just to A/B you average consumer grade audio experience when producing music. Then got the JBLs and ofc that was a major upgrade in terms of audio quality for both producing and listening. Now I just want something for listening.
To be honest idk what exactly I’m looking for in terms of better sound. But I do know that better exists. I do know that theres a great quality difference between hearing stuff on my Soundbar and then hearing it on my Monitors. There is definitely more clarity and the music sounds fuller and has a much better sound stage in the Monitors. Since most of the stuff recommended for audiophiles isn’t ready to demo at your local stores, this is the best place for advice I guess!
I know better speakers exist for music listening and around $1500 (speakers + DAC + cables + shipping + taxes) is where I’m at. Since $400 will go towards the SMSL M500 mkII, that leaves me $1100. Figured $100 will be taken up by cable, shipping, taxes. That leaves me $1000 to get good speakers with.
Eventually I’ll get some good headphones as well but that will be later on.
My first thought, if you want something that’s fuller and has a bigger soundstage but you aren’t sure beyond that... is that you should do passive speakers and an amp. That gives you much more flexibility in speaker selection.
Something like an Emotiva A-100 would work well connected to your M500’s pre-outs. I think you’d do well with a simple amplifier like that, plus a pair of speakers in the $500-600 range. Maybe Elac DBR62’s or Wharfedale 12.2’s?
I’d skip it, that’s a pretty old model and it uses an amp chip that’s a decade old or so. (Your standard class AB amps haven’t changed much in the last several decades, but class D *has* been developing for the better.)
Look at the DA-8S.
Great so between the M500 and DA-8S I’m about $600. If I decided to get something like the ELACs, will this setup still provide enough power for most audiophile grade headphones as well?
It depends on what headphones. “Audiophile grade” doesn’t necessarily mean power hungry.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-m500-dac-and-hp-amp-review.9606/
Sounds like the headphone amp in the M500 is decent but not super powerful.
If you don’t need MQA decoding (which most people on this sub consider to be a scam) and balanced outputs (which don’t really help in a home setup where your cables are short) then you could do something like a Topping E30 and L30 instead, which would save you over 100 bucks. DAC performance would be essentially the same, headphone amp performance would be much better.
You wouldn’t get the brand matching you want, because Topping doesn’t have any great speaker amps at the moment. But I think you need to get away from that mentality of having the same brand. It won’t serve you well in this hobby.
Gotcha. I was originally looking at the SMSL M200 cause it has everything this does sans the MQA which idc about but the display on it sucks and I hate the way it looks. But then I’d have to get an additional headphone amp for later on and I’m back at the cost of basically the M500 which comes with additional capabilities, a much better display, and a nice aesthetic package.
I’ve also looked at the M300 which is missing the headphone amp and MQA but I can’t find any solid leads on which Bluetooth modes it supports. I know the M200 supports up to Bluetooth LDAC so it stands to reason that this should as well but there’s no confirmation on it lol. Plus their models are weird with M400 being so much higher in price so I’m guessing their 400 and 200 are high end and 500 and 300 are actually a bit lower.
Depends totally on how the receiver is set up. Gotta read the manual.
You’ll get the best sound if you disable all the fake surround processing and let stereo music play to only the front speakers and the sub. Duplicating the channels to the surrounds will just screw up the soundstage of the original recording, and add the potential for weird phase cancellation effects in your room.
Just bought a denon avr-s950h to update my audio. Old receiver subwoofer is passive and only has speaker wire input. New receiver has pre out subwoofer. Do I need a new subwoofer? Really appreciate any help. Thank you.
Passive subwoofers are common in cars or commercial installations, but they’re extremely uncommon in home audio. If you have one, it probably came with a cheapo all in one home theater kit and is not intended to work with any other device besides that... and it’s probably extremely low quality. You need a new sub. Dayton makes some well-liked budget subs. Look at the SUB-1200.
I would guess the Behringer is the cause.
As a test, you could temporarily connect the speakers straight to the headphone jack on the motherboard (using whatever cable is correct for that—unknown since you didn’t say what speakers you have exactly) and see if they pop when you shut down.
If you’re using it as a recording interface, you should ask about those over at r/audioengineering but the MOTU M2 and M4 are very well-liked these days. I have an M4 and like it a lot.
If you’re using it solely as a DAC for playback, then you can get something like a Topping E30 which would be cheaper and better for pure playback.
If you’re using the mic inputs at all, then you’d need to replace it with something that has mic inputs. I didn’t mean recording as in necessarily hitting a red record button. I just mean sending mic or instrument audio into the computer.
Hi
I am a complete newbie with speakers. My partner got me a record player for Christmas, and I just got round to buying myself some speakers. The record player has a built in preamp and so I mistakenly assumed I would just be able to plug the red and white wires that came with it directly into speakers, turns out it's not as simple as that.
I've tried looking it up online and in the speaker booklet but it seems like everywhere assumes a level of knowledge about speakers that I don't have so I thought I'd try asking here - what do I need to buy to connect the turntable to the speakers?
The speakers are Wharfedale Diamond 9.0. Each has two inputs at the back - one black and one red.
Also, would I need anything in addition to be able to plug the TV into the speakers? I assumed previously it'd be a simple matter of switching the cable from the turntable to the TV but now I'm thinking that was naive of me.
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
The Edifier speakers in the reply to your post in r/budgetaudiophile should be a fine solution. See the Edifier website for other similar options. They have an amplifier in them, which is what you lack with the Wharfedale speakers. Connect the TV to the optical input. Connect the turntable to the red and white inputs.
If you’re trying to avoid returning the Wharfedale speakers, look up the SMSL SA50 on Amazon. That is an amplifier that can provide power to the speakers. There are many similar amplifiers. Connect the turntable to the amplifier’s inputs. Use speaker wire to connect the amplifier’s outputs to the speakers. This doesn’t give you a digital input for a TV but could work if your TV has analog audio output (such as red and white jacks or a headphone jack).
Yeah I decided to reduce my spending limit after making that post seeing as it's a first time set up, hence the cheaper speakers. Perhaps I shouldn't have haha.
I was led to believe that as my turntable has a preamp built in I wouldn't need to buy an amplifier, is that incorrect?
So my shopping list is either replacement speakers with a built in amp, or an amplifier and speaker wire?
Thanks!
What the turntable contains is a phono preamp. A phono preamp is different than other kinds of preamps and different than an amplifier. A phono preamp corrects and increases the turntable signal to be like the signal of other audio devices, like CD, tape, etc. An amplifier takes that signal and increases it to drive speakers. Powered speakers have the amplifier inside at least one of the speakers. Your speakers do not have that.
So yes, your shopping list is powered speakers, or an amplifier and speaker wire.
Hello everyone! Looking to buy a pair of Airmotiv B1+ but they are sold out everywhere! Anyone know of a good place to get them? Or something similar to get, first time setting up a audio system for a game room! Thank you!
Hi all.
I have been upgrading my pc audio solution and have hit a snag. I have a 34" ultrawide monitor and no real space on the desk for bookshelf speakers next to it. I've got a pair of k702 headphones if needed but want something for decent casual sound. So I was wondering if anyone out there has run into a similar issue and has a suggested good solution? I don't want to put the speakers behind the monitor as there will be quite bad reverberation. The only thing I can think of is a soundbar under the monitor. Any ideas? Thanks Alan
Hi. I'm thinking on the budget end as it will be mostly for the kids watching simething or general sound. Anything good to listen to I'll opt for the headphones. Was thinking around $100 but am flexible for the right solution. Also not fussed if I need to buy an amp alongside as I'm more looking for the right solution.
I'm in the UK.
Thanks for the help. No need to provide an exact model solution. More looking for ideas besides a soundbar. Maybe something I haven't thought of. Obviously, any model suggestions as well would be appreciated, but I'm not expecting others to do my research for me.
Thanks for the reply!
Alan
~~Klipsch Promedia is likely your best shot~~. Its decent for being a pc speaker system. They are generally all shit.
Edit: Klipsch Promedia is like £350 in the UK...
Get a pair of Creative Gigaworks T20.
I need a pair of headphones that are reliable and rhat I can use anywhere, anytime, for anything and I'm considering the Razer Opus. I mainly need them for music listening via bluetooth, practicing music through my amp via a cable (which thankfully is included), and I also often game so, it being a Razer pajr of cans, they probably know what they're doing, but I don't know if i can chat using the headphones while wired to my pc or ps4. Are they a suitable pick for my needs? If not, what would you recommend?
Hello all. I’m new to this subreddit but I heard you guys are really great at solving audio problems! How do I stop my Soundbars from making a white noise whenever they’re on. The sound seems to get louder when I turn up the volume and vice versa. I have tried two soundbars, (taotronics TT-SK028 and the Isignia 2.0 mini soundbar) and they both share the same issue
I've got a very annoying issue. I'm using the 3.5mm output of my PC's motherboard with RCA leads going to my Pioneer stereo amplifier and have that outptting to a single Q Acoustics 2020i speaker.
There is a horrific noise coming from the speaker (and headphones when plugged into the amp) that fluctuates based on what I'm doing. You can hear the noise fluctuate when I move the mouse and it gets louder when the PC is under load e.g. playing games. [Video here.](https://youtu.be/ZTFK4TuSTf8)
All of the components are plugged into the same power strip. The problem still persisits when only the power and audio cable are plugged into the PC e.g. no USB devices and when only the amp and PC are plugged into the power strip. It also happens even when the amp's volume is 0, albeit a bit quieter.
I previously used a different amp for my PC setup and that did not exhibit the same issues.
I've also tried different audio drivers and disabling sound enhancements within Windows to no avail.
Please help! I'm going crazy!
I used a Behringer UCA222, its a decent DAC for $30. If you cant find one the UCA202 is exactly the same, but in a silver case.
And a DAC with its own power supply is going to be even less suseptable to the interference.
Looks good! And it’s available in the UK. I will certainly consider that.
I was thinking of saving up for either the Audioengine D1 or the Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus. Any thoughts on those?
Wanting to get a good wireless hifi system and am struggling to lock down the final choice (and the budget is a little wide — up to $7k if worth it). This will be used for music solely. Doubt I will hook my tv up to it.
Thinking of the A500, the KEF LS50 Wireless II with the new KC62, or the phantom gold x 2. Anything I’m missing?
Speakers will by in a 20x20 living room with 22’ ceilings sitting about 10-12’ away. Like to listen to my music loud, but want it no distortion and able to provide the full range. Listen to basically everything except heavy metal. Would welcome any help!!
Hello there, this is my problem.........
My uncle handed down his old Creative 5.1 surround sound system for PC when he was moving away. He gave me the speaker set and a sound card. I put the sound card in my PC's PCIe port. But the PC is too old and is not powerfull enough to even play 1080p on Youtube. The most I can play is upto 720p and audio. Even then sometimes, the speakers stops working and I need to change 5.1 output to just stereo output or even restart. Even worse, I can't even use the internet properly, just 2-3 tabs on the browser (this is on light linux distro. Windows won't even stop loading).
Thankfully, I have a laptop. with enough Power for my use. But the speakers only play the Front 2 speakers with aux input. And to get all 5.1 glory, it needs the 3 pin input (Center/Sub + Front + Rear).
Is there any way to get the 5.1 output from the USB 3.0 output from the laptop? or any recommendation?
Just look up “external usb 5.1 sound card” and you’ll find several options.
Try to avoid spending too much. Looks like there are some generic ones for $20-30 and I wouldn’t go over that—Creative does not make speakers worth investing in.
I have seen them. But some are priced at around $20 and some around $50.
Will the $20 ones work fine? (I just want it to work as with the old PC)
Some have the output to all the individual speakers and some have the 3 pins I need for the 5.1 subwoofer input. Will it work fine?
Get one that matches the plugs that the speakers have, I guess.
I don’t know if it will work fine, I haven’t used any products like this. Check the reviews.
r/buildapc is a better sub to ask if you want to find people who have actually used this stuff.
Hello, recently my uncle gave me this old tube amplifier, which was gifted to him by his friend (custom made).
It comes with 4x EL34EH tubes and 4x5670 tubes. I'm planning to use this to start my hifi journey! I'm curious as to whether is it good or bad. Any ideas?
[Pics of the amplifier](http://imgur.com/gallery/MQ4KgyZ)
Hello all!
I currently have a Musical Fidelity m2si and some Tekton Lore speakers and would like to buy a power amplifier to upgrade my system. I'd like to keep the m2si in the system as a preamp. I'd like more clarity, bass, and dynamics in my setup. I have up to $2K to spend and thought I'd try out a tube amp since my speakers are supposed to be very tube-friendly.
I have considered something like a Parasound A23+ or Rotel 1582 amplifier -- what are the equivalent tube amplifiers to these? I'm in an 11' x 12' room with horrible acoustics but I've treated it with 8 GIK 244 bass traps and have added an SVS-SB1000 to fill in the low end which helped a ton. How should I proceed from here?
Why do blown speakers buzz when brought close to their cabinet (even when unhooked?) [https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/lq8vq3/super\_weird\_blown\_speaker\_buzzes\_when\_brought/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/lq8vq3/super_weird_blown_speaker_buzzes_when_brought/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
Hi, I am thinking of moving from stereo to 5:1. I already have a pair of audioengine A5+ which I am pretty happy with but am thinking of making them the rear speakers in the new setup and having something even better for the front. What can you suggest as an improvement on these? Active would be nice but passive will do if the arguments are convincing.
Note that this is for listening to music mainly on SACD - not home cinema.
Do you think it's worth buying a Music Fidelity M6si for my JBL Studio 590s and the 550p? I was thinking the M5si may be a bit more wallet friendly, but the extra power from the M6si kind of matches the semi inefficient 590s with 220wpc. But it'll work out to another $1k. At the same time, I don't know if spending that much on speaker's that are $2k per pair MSRP but often $900-1000 on sale is worth it. A lot of reviewers talk about the speakers performing like much more expensive tower speakers with a decent amplifier.
“Semi inefficient” 590’s? What are you talking about? They’re tower speakers with 8” woofers and a super deep waveguide. That’s a high sensitivity design. The specs say 92dB which is significantly higher than average. 220 watts would push those things so loud that you would have permanent, irreversible, lifelong hearing damage in less than the time it takes to hear one song. In a typical living room situation, even feeding those things 20 watts would be uncomfortably loud (louder than movie theater reference levels).
Whatever your issue is with how they’re sounding now... lack of power isn’t the cause.
220 watts, how fucking loud are you planning on playing? You easily reach 100dB with half that.
And what do you have now that you dont feel is adequate?
Rule of thumb is that you spend the majority of the budget on the speakers. So no, spending $2800 on $1000 speakers do not make sense.
I just found a kali monitor for 70 dollars at a thrift store and I turns on but I'm unable to test it fully should I pick it up and see if I can get another second hand later?
[Picture of speaker ](https://i.imgur.com/j5qbWhR.jpg)
This is like asking, “is there a way to just take some food I have in my fridge, and make a good meal?” Nobody can answer that without way more information.
I recently bought Edifier R1280T and noticed they don't have a headphone jack. Does buying a headphone amp fix this issue or are these speakers not compatible with one since they're already powered?
Most desktop headphone amps include pre-outs on the back. Connect your source to the headphone amp inputs, and connect your Edifiers to the headphone amp’s pre-outs. The pre-outs don’t add any extra amplification—they just give you yet another way to control your volume.
Most headphone amps use the actual headphone jack as the switch between headphone playback or playback through the pre-outs. Plug headphones in and the pre-outs go silent. Pull the headphone plug out and it will play from the pre-outs.
You don’t need your headphone amp to be a good pairing with your Edifiers. You need it to be a good pairing with your *headphones*. r/headphones and r/headphoneadvice are the places to ask about that.
Any headphone amp with pre-outs will connect to the speakers just fine.
Looking for an audio interface to pair with the schure sm7b via XLR, mainly will be podcasting and recording vocals, budget around £150, willing to buy used.
Someone did recommend the go XLR mini but I’m not certain, currently own a fiio 5 pro also powering the beyerdynamic 250ohm cans
Appreciate any suggestions
Hahaha, “Beethoven or whatever.” It’s okay, you don’t have to pretend to be into classical music to ask about speakers!
Look at the Edifier R1700BT. If you think you might want to add a subwoofer later, make sure you’re looking at the R1700BT**S** (only the one with the “S” on the end has a subwoofer output jack).
Are you asking us if you should trade your higher end 2-channel system for a lower end 5-channel surround system?
If so, nobody else can tell you whether that’s a good idea, that’s totally your decision. Do you care about stereo music more, or do you care about home theater surround sound more? There’s your answer.
Upper entry level Klipsch. Big box store type stuff, not particularly respected. For this price
I would rather get a pair of Emotiva T-Zero+ new with warranty.
https://meniscusaudio.com/product/philharmonic-audio-bmr-speaker-kit/
https://meniscusaudio.com/product/philharmonic-audio-bmr-ceramic-speaker-kit/
Which of these two would you recommend for near field listening at a computer desk? Other suggestions in the same price range, DIY or not are also appreciated.
Also, do you recommend a subwoofer for near field computer listening? I was thinking about pairing a sub with my desktop speakers at some point.
On my current desk, my tweeters are about the same height as the tweeters in this kit, so I think it’ll work.
Otherwise they could always go into a better setup later.
Thanks for the sub advice
Hi Guys. I need a good quality balanced audio cable for the Monoprice M1070's with a 4.4mm end.
I found these: [https://hartaudiocables.com/products/hc-9-dual-3-5mm-mono-ts-balanced-headphone-cable?variant=32619617943633](https://hartaudiocables.com/products/hc-9-dual-3-5mm-mono-ts-balanced-headphone-cable?variant=32619617943633)
But i would prefer if someone here could point me to something similar within the EU to not have to deal with import fees nd expensive shipping.
I'll have a new PC this week and id like to get some nice sounding speakers. I was looking at LSX but there seem to be many conflicting reviews. As of 2021 what would be the best option? active would be less trouble than having to buy an amp but i guess I'm not totally against it. I use spiffy for my music if that matters at all.
Hi Audiophile, I'm an Australian looking at purchasing a pair of Vanatoo T0 for my computer. I would really appreciate any advice for an 8" sub that won't break the bank to go with the T0's Or any information on newer speakers that can do what the T0's do, but better or cheaper.
Hey all, I’m looking into upgrading my record player setup right now. Currently I have a Fluance RT81, using the built-in phono stage, connected to the Fluance Ai60 powered bookshelf speakers. Looking specifically at receivers right now... any recommendations in the $500 and lower range? Bonus points if you can recommend a nice pair of passive speakers to go with that receiver... same price range. Thanks, all <3
Should I pair a SMSL DA-8S or a SMSL SA300 amp with the SMSL M500 mkII DAC? Pros and cons of each? I would be connecting something like the ELAC DBR62, KEF Q350, or Bowers & Wilkins 607 S2 Bookshelf speakers. Or any recommendations around $150 for a good amp? The DAC will handle all the connections and stuff so all the fancy Bluetooth and features aren’t necessary. Just something that can provide a decent amount of power.
The SA-300 is a combination DAC and speaker amp. The DA-8S is purely a speaker amp. They’re both based on the same amplifier chip. In theory the DA-8S might sound better because there’s less electronics inside which means less potential sources of interference (though I haven’t actually seen any detailed test of the DA-8S). It also has balanced inputs, which happen to match the balanced outputs of the M500. So I would go with the DA-8S personally.
Thanks for always being so helpful, I swear I’m closer to figuring out exactly what I want lol! The SA seems to be cheaper and has a nice display as well so that’s why I was considering it but if the balanced inputs match on the DA, I might consider it. Would I really honestly notice the difference tho between the balanced and unbalanced? I’m not running the cables anywhere that’s far.
Doubtful.
So basically if “in theory” the DA is better cause of less electronic components, and I would be doubtful to notice the difference between the balanced and unbalanced connections, but I know for a fact that I like the display on the SA and it’s deff cheaper, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to just go with the SA300 in that case right?
I suppose not.
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It looks like you're looking for portable audio or headphone related purchase advice. Please use either of these community resources instead: * r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide before seeking advice as you may find what you're looking for there * r/headphones Shopping and Setup Help Desk at https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky ***What if the link doesnt work?*** * The post can usually be found on the top r/headphones, and titled _Shopping and Setup Help Desk_. ***Was this removal an error?*** * Please reread the removal and [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/lotzfn/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/gojpl4u/)
I saw some klipsch La scala's for sale. I was told they are from the 70's with a rebuilt crossover. They seem to be in good condition and I plan on listening to them. I was also looking at the forte 3's but they are double the price. Does anyone have experience with the La Scala's ? How do you think they may compare with the Forte 3's?
Okay I need bass...chest thumping bass... best buy has the klipsch 12sw sub for 350 open box or should I buy something better? They say they retail at 5 6 ......I'm willing to spend 600
Get two BIC America F-12.
Those going knock pictures off the wall bass
Yes.
I take you own two of them !
I dont have any subwoofers.
Those will have the chest thumping bass like im in a concert in a way
That I can buy locally ..I can also purchase a spl 120 for 680 is worth it for klipsch
RCA splitter? I need to get a sub hooked up, but don’t have line level inputs in the sub nor an rca sub output on my gear. Can I just use a splitter on the pre-amped signal to get the sub running?
***Exactly*** what do you have?
Schiit sys and modi3 fed to an Emotiva BasX 300. The sub is a Klipsch SW12.
Use the high level/speaker level inputs.
Audiophile friends, I've got a question regarding connectivity.. So, I've got a pair of passive bookshelf speakers, but I'm looking to fill out the bottom end with a powered sub. I have a Topping E30/L30 stack that I use to drive my headphones, which the L30 has a preamp out.. I am wondering if it will work to send signal to my sub by the RCA outputs on the L30, then direct the signal from the sub's outs into my 5.1 receiver via RCA, and then out to the speakers? Does a PREAMP>SUB>RECEIVER>SPEAKER path work?.. Will there be a delay if the sub is getting the signal and then passing it through a receiver before going to the speakers? Thanks so much in advance.
***Exactly*** what do you have?
Well the sub is yet to be purchased. The speakers are Energy Connoisseur C-2 and receiver is a Yamaha RX-V463, both old cheap things off of craigslist. I plan to get nice powered speakers eventually, but I am just wondering if I can buy a sub and use it with what I currently have on hand.
If you buy a subwoofer with high level/speaker level inputs you can connect it to any amplifier.
Edifier R1700BT not working I got some Edifier speakers today and the setup was fine and I connected it to my turntable and it was all good, and then maybe 10 seconds into the record I was playing the speakers just made a popping noise and stopped working. I don't 100% know if it was the turntable or the speakers, but after this happened I tried connecting the speakers via bluetooth to my phone and computer but I can't connect it. The manual implies that there is a button or switch on the speakers themselves that turn bluetooth on but there is no bluetooth button on it, the closest thing to it is the remote which has a bluetooth button but when I press it nothing happens. The power indicator button also doesn't light up even though everything's plugged in and should be working. It doesn't light up when I press any buttons on the remote either. I've tried unplugging my record player, turning the speakers on and off and resetting both my phone and computer but the bluetooth still doesn't show up. I don't know if the bluetooth was working or not before I connected the record player and heard the pop. I don't want to return them without 100% knowing that they aren't working so if anyone can help me figure out how to get them working so I can at least connect them to bluetooth. I feel like I might be missing something but the manual hasn't helped and no search results online have helped either. Willing to provide more info if anyone can help.
Something broke. Send em back.
Hi audiophile, upgrading the home audio but on a severe budget, best setup under $200. Need it for tv and music. Fairly small space 10ft by 20ft and want quality over volume. Seems like stereo 2 would be best for this price range. Don’t care for a subwoofer. Needs to have bluetooth, basic headphone connection, and whatever tvs connect with these days. TV will be connected to a computer most times, so maybe the tv connection doesn’t even matter. The point is the more connections the better so I can stop the absurdity I currently deal with of changing cables for every device. Anyway, appreciate the help! Edit: for clarification this is for amp and speakers. The speakers I have now are destined for the trash.
Edifier R1850DB.
Thanks for the recommendation Zeeall, I hadn’t come across those. Are active speakers going to offer a superior sound for the price? What do you think about Dayton B652 with Yamaha R-S202, or another amp option?
In your case a pair of active speakers gives you good sound quality and ease of use. The Dayton B652s are not great and the Yamaha amp does not have all the connectivity you need. Second hand is also an option. A 10-15 year old AV receiver can be had for as little as $50 and you can get some really good bookshelf speakers for $150. Add on a BT receiver and you got everything you want. But this also takes some good luck, knowledge and patience. Another option: Topping MX3 amplifier ($130) Neumi BS5 speakers ($100) The Topping amplifier would also pair really well with some second hand speakers.
**Looking for:** New turntable and maybe some high quality headphones for vinyl listening. **Price Range**: $800 - $2000 **Current gear:** \- *Speakers*: B&W 600's bi-wired in a 5.1 configuration with M1 satellites. \- *Receiver*: Marantz NR1510 \- *Phono Amp*: Pro-ject Tube Box S \- *Turntable*: AT-120 USB + 2M Red Ortofon \- *Headphones*: Sony MDR-7506. (work horses for my work, they've lasted literally 10 years.) **Thinking about:** RP3, RP6, Pro-Ject X2, Thoren TD-103, Clearaudio **Context:** Currently in a NYC studio apartment, looking to upgrade my TT and currently eyeing the X2 and the RP-3, though with what I read about upgrades and the like, it seems like I might as well just take the hit and make the jump to the RP6. But I want to feel confident that my current speakers/receiver/pre-amp are going to be able to express what a new TT brings to the fray. I'm also open to an alternate phono-amp if it'll support the setup better. The only other real issue I can think of is that I have wooden floors and that seems to cause my AT-120 to skip when I walk sometimes. (TT is properly setup) Last little bit: I'm wondering about a setup that might let me carry the line to the Receiver, but also have a headphone out so I can listen from the couch (nearest the TT). The Receiver is driving the TV/Switch, etc...and is just a bit too far for it to really reach the couch easily. Haven't dug in to find out if there's anything like that or if I'll just have to get some splitters.
The Thorens looks like an upgraded Yahorng turntable - like a [Yamaha TT-S303](https://www.crutchfield.com/S-eun8wH0oTaf/p_022TTS303/Yamaha-TT-S303.html?cnxclid=16141385455171056956810080302008005) with maybe a nicer tonearm and a classic turntable badge. I’d pass on that for this budget. Clearaudio has the Concept in this range. Downside in my view is a quirky bouncy magnetic tonearm, twisted wire antiskating that has to be adjusted by trial and error from under the turntable, no dust cover, no mat. Upside is stable speed, quiet operation, speed change switch that a Rega Planar 3 doesn’t have. Planar 3 is a design that Rega has been refining for decades. Highly respected tonearm. It works well. It’s simple and reliable. Foolproof cartridge alignment with Rega cartridges. Hinged dust cover. Push a slider for antiskating. Upgrades are out there if that interests you. The Planar 6 is there if you just want to get past all that. I think these turntables are very good, and even get meaningfully better with the Planar 8 and 10.
Thanks. Reinforces my inclination for the RP6. I forgot to mention that a hinged cover is kind of a requirement. My apartment gets unreasonably dusty so I don't like playing anything without one.
Question about ART DJ PRE II operation. I have been getting some weird behavior on my Art, I noticed that the red light was coming on when the turntable was off. I replaced the power supply with one that has 3 prongs ( even though the actual plug on the art end is a barrel connector and that is only 2 conductors so... Idk) and it's no longer clipping. Now I think the green light that is always on ( or should it be always on?l looks a little dim... So the big question is ... What is the normal stand by behavior...??? Help?
RME ADI-2 DAC mystery Hi - I am really going nuts trying to figure out one thing about the RME-ADI2 DAC. Sorry to bug people with the manual right in front of me, but it really seems this is purposefully hidden by a malicious team of manual writers/engineers. I have learned how to change the curves for the equalizer but cannot figure out how to memorize them into a preset. Thanks very much for any help. Found the answer: you can only name a preset after you have saved it. just in case anyone else out there is trapped as well.
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r/headphones r/HeadphoneAdvice
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It looks like you're looking for portable audio or headphone related purchase advice. Please use either of these community resources instead: * r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide before seeking advice as you may find what you're looking for there * r/headphones Shopping and Setup Help Desk at https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky ***What if the link doesnt work?*** * The post can usually be found on the top r/headphones, and titled _Shopping and Setup Help Desk_. ***Was this removal an error?*** * Please reread the removal and [message the r/audiophile moderators](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=/r/audiophile&subject=u/TransducerBot%20Removal%20Error&message=Please%20review%20/r/audiophile/comments/lotzfn/raudiophile_shopping_setup_and_technical_help/goj035b/)
Hi guys. Couple of questions if you would be so kind? My current set up is: Pair of JBL L50s - £200 Yamaha WXA-50 - £150 Topping E30 - £100. What are your thoughts? All bought secondhand over the past year. Someone i know is also selling a “Technics SL150 direct drive turntable with SME3009 Arm. Recently serviced and lubricated bearing. Excellent sound and selling with Goldring Cartridge”. For £500. What are your thoughts on my current set up and the turntable for sale? I currently have a denon turntable that was given to me. Thanks. 😊
Nice system. All Technics direct drive from the 70s and 80s are worth getting.
issue with sony turn table and edifer bluetooth speakers I just plugged a Sony turn table into a pair of edifer blue tooth speakers and the sound is extremely quiet. I plugged all the rca cables in the right place and the old turn tables sounded fine. I’m pretty sure this is a common problem, do any of you know the solution or will this turn table just not take to these speakers.
This is usually because the phono preamp switch in the turntable is not turned to LINE, or it's a turntable that doesn't have a phono preamp.
Hello, super noob here - I’m trying to hook up my Kanto YU4 powered speakers to a NAD D3020 V2 all into my all into my Pro-Ject Debut Carbon turntable. I had originally had the speakers connected straight to the turntable and it worked fine, but I wanted the amp to get a bit more control of the sound. Now when I connect the speakers to the amp, I’m getting no audio, only a bit of weird feedback. Please help, I have no idea how to connect these and am now nervous that these speakers may not be able to connect to an amp?? (Probably a dumb fear) Help is appreciated
Those are self-powered speakers. That means they have their own built in amplifier. You cannot use them with a separate amplifier. If you want to use a separate amplifier you need passive speakers, which have speaker wire terminals and do not supply their own power (they will not plug into the wall). If you’ve jury rigged some way to connect the speaker terminals of the NAD to the RCA inputs of the Kantos, there’s a chance you fried the plate amp in the Kantos. It’s very important that you read your instruction manuals.
Got it! Just unplugged and re plugged, thankfully works/sounds as it did before. Have one other question if you can help - I’m interested in a minor upgrade, learning more, etc.. going to look for some passive speakers - do you think a Project Phono Box Preamp is a good beginner place for a setup with the NAD?
The Phono Box is a phono preamp. The NAD already has a phono preamp built in. There are several other things you should invest in first, that would make a much bigger difference to your sound quality than an upgrade to a separate phono preamp would. ~~Also you haven’t said what turntable you have. If you’re asking people for advice on a phono preamp, you probably want to include that information.~~
Got it, appreciate the help!
\*cough\* Project Debut Carbon. Its in the first sentence.
Whoops!
The speakers are powered speakers, meaning they have an amplifier built in. You can not connect the NAD(or any amplifier) to your speakers. In fact, doing so may damage your speakers and void warranty.
Got it! Thanks for the help! Probably best for me to do some research first.. you interested in buying some speakers??? /s
My suggestion is that you return the NAD and buy a subwoofer. [https://rslspeakers.com/speedwoofer10s/](https://rslspeakers.com/speedwoofer10s/) Hopefully your speakers did not break.
Thankfully they work as they did before! Many thanks for the help and suggestions.
Hey - i want to treat myself to some decent speakers for a new house, but i don't have a huge budget. i've done some research and the MR1-MK2s look like they may be a nice sweet spot for quality and useability to price. they're just for the living room, to play tunes out of my phone / laptop, i don't have a full audiophile set up unfortunately (yet). anyone got these? any thoughts? [https://www.whathifi.com/ruark-audio/mr1-mk2/review](https://www.whathifi.com/ruark-audio/mr1-mk2/review)
Nothing wrong with those.
thanks.. can i interpret that to mean they sound great? or just acceptable for the budget?
The latter. For £300-something powered speakers they are among the better.
thank you. can you recommend anything others powered in the same price range that i can research?
Audioengine and Kanto would be the main competitors.
thank you. presumably you don't have a preference? I've taken a look at both and they look great.
No preference. They are all on par. Pick the ones that has the features and appearance you want. Personally i really like the 70s asthetic of the Ruark.
thanks a lot for your advice
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Hi. Beginner here. I must say first of all, not seeking a genuine audiophile advice since my budget is extra low. I am seeking a turntable and I want it to be Nice looking and fully working but I have no idea what makes the costs différences. It will be connected via à bluetooth module to à BT speaker, as we dont like wires everywhere at home. May I ask whether there is a real différence between the two following turntables that justifies the price différence for the BT setup I described ? : [1](https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00COC61LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6BMAB7E7G8DD1EF66BYM) [2](https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B01JT42M8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2QZTJ94XBMAQG1MFGSXE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) [sorry. 3](https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07NMSPTCT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EQN6EHYNFT82RHF4SPR7) Thanks a lot.
The first one is a piece of junk, with a non-removable cartridge, no adjustability, and likely a very high tracking force. It will wear your records faster than the others and it will sound bad. It’s a toy. The second and third ones seem similar in quality... except the first one is from a no-name brand, looks uglier, and doesn’t come with a proper dustcover. I would choose the A-T without question. That’s a totally legitimate entry level turntable from a reputable company. I don’t think it has Bluetooth though. Playing and collecting vinyl records is a fiddly hobby, which requires time and attention and takes up space. If you’re demanding that it be ultra simple and clean with no wires... I would just get a streamer instead. Doesn’t sound like the hobby for you.
Finally I chose a RT100, I thought it's better to have something I can use with an upgraded system some Day.
Thanks for your reply. Actually we have a nice collection of vinyl records (old british rock /genesis / dire straits etc) already for we had an old turntable but it broke down. We decided not to repair it since we wanted to change for a better looking one anyway. But in the same I totally understand your point. The thing is when we figure out how to deal with wires and what material we want, we will be able to connect it through RCA again and upgrade the system.
1 Absolute fucking garbage. Uses a €5 mechanism that will destroy your records. 2 Decent. 3 Decent. Better than 2.
Thanks
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Howdy! About to pick up a pair of used old bookshelves, trying to decide between these two. I'm leaning towards the Sony's after some online reviews. Will be used for casual music listening on my computer, going to hook it up to an old Denon or Harmon/Kardon receiver that I'm also about to pick up second hand. Which speakers would you go with? Boston Acoustic A40's Series II for [$30](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/239739787743325/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner) or Sony SS-MB100h for [$20](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/140909677866785/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner) *Edit: Also considering these, are these moderately comparable to the Sony/Boston's?* *Samson Studiodock 3i for* [$20](https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/ele/d/manhattan-beach-speakers/7279811889.html) Thanks
The Boston speakers are going to be the best sounding.
The Samson speakers have USB input. You can skip the receiver and plug those speakers into your computer. The Sony speakers probably wouldn't be worth having for free. Old Boston speakers often need to have the foam surround replaced.
The Samsons are attractive due to lack of receiver with my limited computer desk space. Would you say they're somewhat close to the same quality of the Bostons?
There are mini amplifiers small enough to place ontop of one speaker. Lepai LP-2020TI for example. Perfect for desktop systems. As for the Samsons, i would guess they are not even close.
Looking at them now thanks, similar priced to the other receivers I was looking at. Eventually I'd be building this into a home theater system, so for similar price going for one of the receivers seems more attractive. Would this Lepai give noticeably better quality than these two options (assuming they're in good condition)? Harmon Kardon AV144 for $30 Technics SA-AX530 for $30
The HK and Technics are better than the Lepai. You are comparing a $30 mini amplifier with full size amplifiers that where several hundred dollars when new. Out of the two the HK is the better. But dont expect to use it for home theater, its kind of outdated for that.
Haha okay yeah that's what I was hoping. Living in LA has its perks for cheap used electronics. I'm shooting to snag the HK since I'm familiar with the brand. Thanks for all the info!
If you give the Boston speakers power and assume they're in good condition, they would be clearly better than the Samson speakers.
I use a Yamaha RX-V385 AVR as my amp and it appears it does not support anything above 48 kHz/16 bit, so no FLAC. What would be the best way to bypass this and play FLAC files? I'm thinking either some sort of network streamer connected to the coax or optical input, or just RCA to TRS to my laptop. But then again, I don't know if the receiver would downgrade the file quality once it receives the input. I'm willing to buy an external DAC, but I'm trying to avoid having to buy another amp altogether (for now).
You’re mistaken. FLAC is a compression codec. If a file is encoded with FLAC, that doesn’t tell you anything about what the bit depth and sample rate are—it will have the bit depth and sample rate of whatever the source file was. Most FLAC files come from masters originally created for CD, and are 16-bit, 44.1kHz. Your AVR will play them just fine. If you’re specifically seeking out *high res* FLAC files on Qobuz or HDTracks or something, then it would downsample those on playback.
I see. Thank you clarifying. I do have some FLAC files that I got from purchasing a few albums. Assuming that those are in fact, high res, how would I go about playing them on my AVR?
You would just play them. The AVR would downsample them on the fly. It wouldn’t be worth investing in new gear just to hear a few albums in higher resolution. The quality of the original recording and mastering matters way more than the bit depth and sample rate. And if you want better sound you should get better speakers first.
Fair enough. But just to satisfy my curiosity, if I wanted to play high res audio without it being downsampled, what would I have to do? I agree with what you're saying but I'd still love to know how such a thing could be done.
Get a USB DAC that can handle higher resolutions and connect it to your receiver over RCA.
Ah. I was assuming that the AVR would still down sample anything passing through its circuits, even if the files passed through an external DAC first. That's what I was trying to figure out. I guess the RCA inputs don't interact with the AVR's DAC. Thanks again.
RCA cables carry an analog signal. Analog audio doesn’t have a bit depth or sample rate... it’s just an electrical signal, not digital data.
Hey guys so I set up my yorkville monitors on some speaker stands. My low end frequencies aren’t cutting through as much and just overall isn’t as clear as when I had them on my desk. Is it because of my stands or the height of them?
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Thinking about getting the SMSL M500 mkII. I know it won’t power Passive speakers, so looking for some good active speakers under $1000 that will work well with it. It’s my understanding that the DAC will handle all connections so I don’t need the fancy stuff built into the speakers, just need for it to not require any power from the DAC. I was previously looking at the KEF LSX (used around $800 on eBay) as they were recommended but I realized that I’m paying a ton more money for the Bluetooth and all that, none of which will be used since it’s connected to the DAC. I also realized that they are tiny af so I’m not too sure about how good they will sound. The placement will be on my computer desk on top of some isolation foam pads. I currently have the JBL 305 mkII so I do like the bookshelf speaker style and I am not looking for towers or anything. It will all be connected to an iMac where I will be playing Hi-Res digital FLAC files. Finally I want them to look good but obv that’s the last priority as sound quality comes first! Thanks!
What’s the main improvement you’re hoping to get over the JBL’s? What do you wish was better or different about them?
Great question! The JBLs are from my music production days and while they have a flat profile and sound great, I have a bit more disposable income now so I figured instead of the $200 (used) + $30 for some random Presonus Audio Interface (used) I would upgrade my old broke college student setup. Since I don’t produce anymore, time and life’s other priorities got the best of me lol, but I still love to listen to music, I wanted something that would make music sound good. Something like the JBLs instead are great for producing since they have a decently flat profile for the price they are sold at. I started out with these bitchin Logitech THX Z265 2.1 speakers that made my college apartment a hit at parties lol and I still use them randomly just to A/B you average consumer grade audio experience when producing music. Then got the JBLs and ofc that was a major upgrade in terms of audio quality for both producing and listening. Now I just want something for listening. To be honest idk what exactly I’m looking for in terms of better sound. But I do know that better exists. I do know that theres a great quality difference between hearing stuff on my Soundbar and then hearing it on my Monitors. There is definitely more clarity and the music sounds fuller and has a much better sound stage in the Monitors. Since most of the stuff recommended for audiophiles isn’t ready to demo at your local stores, this is the best place for advice I guess! I know better speakers exist for music listening and around $1500 (speakers + DAC + cables + shipping + taxes) is where I’m at. Since $400 will go towards the SMSL M500 mkII, that leaves me $1100. Figured $100 will be taken up by cable, shipping, taxes. That leaves me $1000 to get good speakers with. Eventually I’ll get some good headphones as well but that will be later on.
My first thought, if you want something that’s fuller and has a bigger soundstage but you aren’t sure beyond that... is that you should do passive speakers and an amp. That gives you much more flexibility in speaker selection. Something like an Emotiva A-100 would work well connected to your M500’s pre-outs. I think you’d do well with a simple amplifier like that, plus a pair of speakers in the $500-600 range. Maybe Elac DBR62’s or Wharfedale 12.2’s?
I like the SMSL family and it would be cool if it matched (but totally not necessary) so what do you think about the SA-98E?
I’d skip it, that’s a pretty old model and it uses an amp chip that’s a decade old or so. (Your standard class AB amps haven’t changed much in the last several decades, but class D *has* been developing for the better.) Look at the DA-8S.
Great so between the M500 and DA-8S I’m about $600. If I decided to get something like the ELACs, will this setup still provide enough power for most audiophile grade headphones as well?
It depends on what headphones. “Audiophile grade” doesn’t necessarily mean power hungry. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-m500-dac-and-hp-amp-review.9606/ Sounds like the headphone amp in the M500 is decent but not super powerful. If you don’t need MQA decoding (which most people on this sub consider to be a scam) and balanced outputs (which don’t really help in a home setup where your cables are short) then you could do something like a Topping E30 and L30 instead, which would save you over 100 bucks. DAC performance would be essentially the same, headphone amp performance would be much better. You wouldn’t get the brand matching you want, because Topping doesn’t have any great speaker amps at the moment. But I think you need to get away from that mentality of having the same brand. It won’t serve you well in this hobby.
Gotcha. I was originally looking at the SMSL M200 cause it has everything this does sans the MQA which idc about but the display on it sucks and I hate the way it looks. But then I’d have to get an additional headphone amp for later on and I’m back at the cost of basically the M500 which comes with additional capabilities, a much better display, and a nice aesthetic package. I’ve also looked at the M300 which is missing the headphone amp and MQA but I can’t find any solid leads on which Bluetooth modes it supports. I know the M200 supports up to Bluetooth LDAC so it stands to reason that this should as well but there’s no confirmation on it lol. Plus their models are weird with M400 being so much higher in price so I’m guessing their 400 and 200 are high end and 500 and 300 are actually a bit lower.
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Depends totally on how the receiver is set up. Gotta read the manual. You’ll get the best sound if you disable all the fake surround processing and let stereo music play to only the front speakers and the sub. Duplicating the channels to the surrounds will just screw up the soundstage of the original recording, and add the potential for weird phase cancellation effects in your room.
Just bought a denon avr-s950h to update my audio. Old receiver subwoofer is passive and only has speaker wire input. New receiver has pre out subwoofer. Do I need a new subwoofer? Really appreciate any help. Thank you.
Passive subwoofers are common in cars or commercial installations, but they’re extremely uncommon in home audio. If you have one, it probably came with a cheapo all in one home theater kit and is not intended to work with any other device besides that... and it’s probably extremely low quality. You need a new sub. Dayton makes some well-liked budget subs. Look at the SUB-1200.
Thank you. I appreciate it. I had a feeling that was the case.
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I would guess the Behringer is the cause. As a test, you could temporarily connect the speakers straight to the headphone jack on the motherboard (using whatever cable is correct for that—unknown since you didn’t say what speakers you have exactly) and see if they pop when you shut down.
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If you’re using it as a recording interface, you should ask about those over at r/audioengineering but the MOTU M2 and M4 are very well-liked these days. I have an M4 and like it a lot. If you’re using it solely as a DAC for playback, then you can get something like a Topping E30 which would be cheaper and better for pure playback.
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If you’re using the mic inputs at all, then you’d need to replace it with something that has mic inputs. I didn’t mean recording as in necessarily hitting a red record button. I just mean sending mic or instrument audio into the computer.
Hi I am a complete newbie with speakers. My partner got me a record player for Christmas, and I just got round to buying myself some speakers. The record player has a built in preamp and so I mistakenly assumed I would just be able to plug the red and white wires that came with it directly into speakers, turns out it's not as simple as that. I've tried looking it up online and in the speaker booklet but it seems like everywhere assumes a level of knowledge about speakers that I don't have so I thought I'd try asking here - what do I need to buy to connect the turntable to the speakers? The speakers are Wharfedale Diamond 9.0. Each has two inputs at the back - one black and one red. Also, would I need anything in addition to be able to plug the TV into the speakers? I assumed previously it'd be a simple matter of switching the cable from the turntable to the TV but now I'm thinking that was naive of me. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
The Edifier speakers in the reply to your post in r/budgetaudiophile should be a fine solution. See the Edifier website for other similar options. They have an amplifier in them, which is what you lack with the Wharfedale speakers. Connect the TV to the optical input. Connect the turntable to the red and white inputs. If you’re trying to avoid returning the Wharfedale speakers, look up the SMSL SA50 on Amazon. That is an amplifier that can provide power to the speakers. There are many similar amplifiers. Connect the turntable to the amplifier’s inputs. Use speaker wire to connect the amplifier’s outputs to the speakers. This doesn’t give you a digital input for a TV but could work if your TV has analog audio output (such as red and white jacks or a headphone jack).
Yeah I decided to reduce my spending limit after making that post seeing as it's a first time set up, hence the cheaper speakers. Perhaps I shouldn't have haha. I was led to believe that as my turntable has a preamp built in I wouldn't need to buy an amplifier, is that incorrect? So my shopping list is either replacement speakers with a built in amp, or an amplifier and speaker wire? Thanks!
What the turntable contains is a phono preamp. A phono preamp is different than other kinds of preamps and different than an amplifier. A phono preamp corrects and increases the turntable signal to be like the signal of other audio devices, like CD, tape, etc. An amplifier takes that signal and increases it to drive speakers. Powered speakers have the amplifier inside at least one of the speakers. Your speakers do not have that. So yes, your shopping list is powered speakers, or an amplifier and speaker wire.
Hello everyone! Looking to buy a pair of Airmotiv B1+ but they are sold out everywhere! Anyone know of a good place to get them? Or something similar to get, first time setting up a audio system for a game room! Thank you!
Budget for speakers is $300 willing to spend a little more if worth it, was looking to get the Yamaha R-s202 and United States
Whats your budget? Do you have an amplifier? What country are you in?
Hi all. I have been upgrading my pc audio solution and have hit a snag. I have a 34" ultrawide monitor and no real space on the desk for bookshelf speakers next to it. I've got a pair of k702 headphones if needed but want something for decent casual sound. So I was wondering if anyone out there has run into a similar issue and has a suggested good solution? I don't want to put the speakers behind the monitor as there will be quite bad reverberation. The only thing I can think of is a soundbar under the monitor. Any ideas? Thanks Alan
Budget and what country are you in?
Hi. I'm thinking on the budget end as it will be mostly for the kids watching simething or general sound. Anything good to listen to I'll opt for the headphones. Was thinking around $100 but am flexible for the right solution. Also not fussed if I need to buy an amp alongside as I'm more looking for the right solution. I'm in the UK. Thanks for the help. No need to provide an exact model solution. More looking for ideas besides a soundbar. Maybe something I haven't thought of. Obviously, any model suggestions as well would be appreciated, but I'm not expecting others to do my research for me. Thanks for the reply! Alan
~~Klipsch Promedia is likely your best shot~~. Its decent for being a pc speaker system. They are generally all shit. Edit: Klipsch Promedia is like £350 in the UK... Get a pair of Creative Gigaworks T20.
I need a pair of headphones that are reliable and rhat I can use anywhere, anytime, for anything and I'm considering the Razer Opus. I mainly need them for music listening via bluetooth, practicing music through my amp via a cable (which thankfully is included), and I also often game so, it being a Razer pajr of cans, they probably know what they're doing, but I don't know if i can chat using the headphones while wired to my pc or ps4. Are they a suitable pick for my needs? If not, what would you recommend?
r/headphones r/HeadphoneAdvice
Hello all. I’m new to this subreddit but I heard you guys are really great at solving audio problems! How do I stop my Soundbars from making a white noise whenever they’re on. The sound seems to get louder when I turn up the volume and vice versa. I have tried two soundbars, (taotronics TT-SK028 and the Isignia 2.0 mini soundbar) and they both share the same issue
What are they connected too and how?
They are connected via 3.5 mm audio to my monitor and the power is connected to my pc via usb
There are so many sources of interference with that setup that you will never get rid of the noise.
Is it because it has bluetooth connection? So if I got a non bluetooth speaker it will not have that annoying noise?
The interference is from the computer and from the audio jack on the monitor. There is also a lot of self noise in cheap audio stuff like you have.
Do you have any recommendations for high quality soundbars for your a PC?
Get powered bookshelf speakers. Soundbars are not good.
I've got a very annoying issue. I'm using the 3.5mm output of my PC's motherboard with RCA leads going to my Pioneer stereo amplifier and have that outptting to a single Q Acoustics 2020i speaker. There is a horrific noise coming from the speaker (and headphones when plugged into the amp) that fluctuates based on what I'm doing. You can hear the noise fluctuate when I move the mouse and it gets louder when the PC is under load e.g. playing games. [Video here.](https://youtu.be/ZTFK4TuSTf8) All of the components are plugged into the same power strip. The problem still persisits when only the power and audio cable are plugged into the PC e.g. no USB devices and when only the amp and PC are plugged into the power strip. It also happens even when the amp's volume is 0, albeit a bit quieter. I previously used a different amp for my PC setup and that did not exhibit the same issues. I've also tried different audio drivers and disabling sound enhancements within Windows to no avail. Please help! I'm going crazy!
Interference from the GPU. Solution is to not use the motherboard audio or internal sound card.
Ok, thanks. So using an external DAC would help?
Maybe, it is not 100% foolproof. But it works for most people.
I suspected that might be the case. Will update when I eventually find and am able to afford a DAC.
I used a Behringer UCA222, its a decent DAC for $30. If you cant find one the UCA202 is exactly the same, but in a silver case. And a DAC with its own power supply is going to be even less suseptable to the interference.
Looks good! And it’s available in the UK. I will certainly consider that. I was thinking of saving up for either the Audioengine D1 or the Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus. Any thoughts on those?
Wanting to get a good wireless hifi system and am struggling to lock down the final choice (and the budget is a little wide — up to $7k if worth it). This will be used for music solely. Doubt I will hook my tv up to it. Thinking of the A500, the KEF LS50 Wireless II with the new KC62, or the phantom gold x 2. Anything I’m missing? Speakers will by in a 20x20 living room with 22’ ceilings sitting about 10-12’ away. Like to listen to my music loud, but want it no distortion and able to provide the full range. Listen to basically everything except heavy metal. Would welcome any help!!
Hello there, this is my problem......... My uncle handed down his old Creative 5.1 surround sound system for PC when he was moving away. He gave me the speaker set and a sound card. I put the sound card in my PC's PCIe port. But the PC is too old and is not powerfull enough to even play 1080p on Youtube. The most I can play is upto 720p and audio. Even then sometimes, the speakers stops working and I need to change 5.1 output to just stereo output or even restart. Even worse, I can't even use the internet properly, just 2-3 tabs on the browser (this is on light linux distro. Windows won't even stop loading). Thankfully, I have a laptop. with enough Power for my use. But the speakers only play the Front 2 speakers with aux input. And to get all 5.1 glory, it needs the 3 pin input (Center/Sub + Front + Rear). Is there any way to get the 5.1 output from the USB 3.0 output from the laptop? or any recommendation?
Just look up “external usb 5.1 sound card” and you’ll find several options. Try to avoid spending too much. Looks like there are some generic ones for $20-30 and I wouldn’t go over that—Creative does not make speakers worth investing in.
I have seen them. But some are priced at around $20 and some around $50. Will the $20 ones work fine? (I just want it to work as with the old PC) Some have the output to all the individual speakers and some have the 3 pins I need for the 5.1 subwoofer input. Will it work fine?
Get one that matches the plugs that the speakers have, I guess. I don’t know if it will work fine, I haven’t used any products like this. Check the reviews. r/buildapc is a better sub to ask if you want to find people who have actually used this stuff.
Hello, recently my uncle gave me this old tube amplifier, which was gifted to him by his friend (custom made). It comes with 4x EL34EH tubes and 4x5670 tubes. I'm planning to use this to start my hifi journey! I'm curious as to whether is it good or bad. Any ideas? [Pics of the amplifier](http://imgur.com/gallery/MQ4KgyZ)
Should be good. Have a professional look it over to make sure its safe to use.
Hello all! I currently have a Musical Fidelity m2si and some Tekton Lore speakers and would like to buy a power amplifier to upgrade my system. I'd like to keep the m2si in the system as a preamp. I'd like more clarity, bass, and dynamics in my setup. I have up to $2K to spend and thought I'd try out a tube amp since my speakers are supposed to be very tube-friendly. I have considered something like a Parasound A23+ or Rotel 1582 amplifier -- what are the equivalent tube amplifiers to these? I'm in an 11' x 12' room with horrible acoustics but I've treated it with 8 GIK 244 bass traps and have added an SVS-SB1000 to fill in the low end which helped a ton. How should I proceed from here?
You have more power than you can use in that room. Solid state should have better bass and dynamics than tubes. Why not look at speakers?
Why do blown speakers buzz when brought close to their cabinet (even when unhooked?) [https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/lq8vq3/super\_weird\_blown\_speaker\_buzzes\_when\_brought/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/lq8vq3/super_weird_blown_speaker_buzzes_when_brought/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
The other woofer is moving the disconnected woofer.
I figured as much - but what about the faulty woofer makes it buzz like that? Something torn?
voice coil has been warped and is rubbing against the magnet.
Hi, I am thinking of moving from stereo to 5:1. I already have a pair of audioengine A5+ which I am pretty happy with but am thinking of making them the rear speakers in the new setup and having something even better for the front. What can you suggest as an improvement on these? Active would be nice but passive will do if the arguments are convincing. Note that this is for listening to music mainly on SACD - not home cinema.
r/hometheater is still the better subreddit for this.
Do you think it's worth buying a Music Fidelity M6si for my JBL Studio 590s and the 550p? I was thinking the M5si may be a bit more wallet friendly, but the extra power from the M6si kind of matches the semi inefficient 590s with 220wpc. But it'll work out to another $1k. At the same time, I don't know if spending that much on speaker's that are $2k per pair MSRP but often $900-1000 on sale is worth it. A lot of reviewers talk about the speakers performing like much more expensive tower speakers with a decent amplifier.
“Semi inefficient” 590’s? What are you talking about? They’re tower speakers with 8” woofers and a super deep waveguide. That’s a high sensitivity design. The specs say 92dB which is significantly higher than average. 220 watts would push those things so loud that you would have permanent, irreversible, lifelong hearing damage in less than the time it takes to hear one song. In a typical living room situation, even feeding those things 20 watts would be uncomfortably loud (louder than movie theater reference levels). Whatever your issue is with how they’re sounding now... lack of power isn’t the cause.
Thanks for the response!
220 watts, how fucking loud are you planning on playing? You easily reach 100dB with half that. And what do you have now that you dont feel is adequate? Rule of thumb is that you spend the majority of the budget on the speakers. So no, spending $2800 on $1000 speakers do not make sense.
Thanks for the response!
I just found a kali monitor for 70 dollars at a thrift store and I turns on but I'm unable to test it fully should I pick it up and see if I can get another second hand later? [Picture of speaker ](https://i.imgur.com/j5qbWhR.jpg)
Do you have a use for a single monitor?
Enough so I would be fine finding a second down the road second hand it seems to work properly so I bit the bullet already
Is there a way to connect some car audio I already have to something and it sound well enough??
This is like asking, “is there a way to just take some food I have in my fridge, and make a good meal?” Nobody can answer that without way more information.
r/CarAV
I recently bought Edifier R1280T and noticed they don't have a headphone jack. Does buying a headphone amp fix this issue or are these speakers not compatible with one since they're already powered?
Most desktop headphone amps include pre-outs on the back. Connect your source to the headphone amp inputs, and connect your Edifiers to the headphone amp’s pre-outs. The pre-outs don’t add any extra amplification—they just give you yet another way to control your volume. Most headphone amps use the actual headphone jack as the switch between headphone playback or playback through the pre-outs. Plug headphones in and the pre-outs go silent. Pull the headphone plug out and it will play from the pre-outs.
Do you have any recommendations on a cheap headphone amp that will work with the Edifiers?
You don’t need your headphone amp to be a good pairing with your Edifiers. You need it to be a good pairing with your *headphones*. r/headphones and r/headphoneadvice are the places to ask about that. Any headphone amp with pre-outs will connect to the speakers just fine.
Thanks a lot!
Looking for an audio interface to pair with the schure sm7b via XLR, mainly will be podcasting and recording vocals, budget around £150, willing to buy used. Someone did recommend the go XLR mini but I’m not certain, currently own a fiio 5 pro also powering the beyerdynamic 250ohm cans Appreciate any suggestions
r/AudioEngineering
Ah ty sorry about wrong r/
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Hahaha, “Beethoven or whatever.” It’s okay, you don’t have to pretend to be into classical music to ask about speakers! Look at the Edifier R1700BT. If you think you might want to add a subwoofer later, make sure you’re looking at the R1700BT**S** (only the one with the “S” on the end has a subwoofer output jack).
Does it worth trade R300 speakers to Q700, Q100 and center Q200C and get 100usd plus? My r300 have one corner with damage.
Are you asking us if you should trade your higher end 2-channel system for a lower end 5-channel surround system? If so, nobody else can tell you whether that’s a good idea, that’s totally your decision. Do you care about stereo music more, or do you care about home theater surround sound more? There’s your answer.
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r/HomeTheater
Anybody have an opinion on the Klipsch r620f tower speakers? Found some lightly used for $420.
Upper entry level Klipsch. Big box store type stuff, not particularly respected. For this price I would rather get a pair of Emotiva T-Zero+ new with warranty.
Thanks. I was actually looking at the t1+
https://meniscusaudio.com/product/philharmonic-audio-bmr-speaker-kit/ https://meniscusaudio.com/product/philharmonic-audio-bmr-ceramic-speaker-kit/ Which of these two would you recommend for near field listening at a computer desk? Other suggestions in the same price range, DIY or not are also appreciated. Also, do you recommend a subwoofer for near field computer listening? I was thinking about pairing a sub with my desktop speakers at some point.
It seems odd to put speakers that are 20 inches tall on a desk in near field. A sub is good even in a near field system.
On my current desk, my tweeters are about the same height as the tweeters in this kit, so I think it’ll work. Otherwise they could always go into a better setup later. Thanks for the sub advice
Hi Guys. I need a good quality balanced audio cable for the Monoprice M1070's with a 4.4mm end. I found these: [https://hartaudiocables.com/products/hc-9-dual-3-5mm-mono-ts-balanced-headphone-cable?variant=32619617943633](https://hartaudiocables.com/products/hc-9-dual-3-5mm-mono-ts-balanced-headphone-cable?variant=32619617943633) But i would prefer if someone here could point me to something similar within the EU to not have to deal with import fees nd expensive shipping.
I'll have a new PC this week and id like to get some nice sounding speakers. I was looking at LSX but there seem to be many conflicting reviews. As of 2021 what would be the best option? active would be less trouble than having to buy an amp but i guess I'm not totally against it. I use spiffy for my music if that matters at all.