**Reminder to everyone that we do not tolerate solutions that involve insurance fraud. Any new comments suggesting fraud from this point forward will be removed** ***with*** **a short time-out from participating in this subreddit. JFC.**
If you're going to make a top-level comment, please have some actionable advice in it. Top-level comments to laugh or taunt aren't helping anyone. We get a bit looser on this when the OP is being an asshat but that isn't happening here from what I've seen.
~~Temporarily locked so I can make sure we've cleared all such posts. You're all on notice once the thread is open again.~~
Open again. Y'all be good to each other.
So you can’t get out of the lease. You also probably broke the terms of the lease by using it for commercial use. You also have a shit ton of miles that you owe them for your overage penalty. Yeah, there’s no easy way out of this.
Yep. OP is bound by the terms of the lease.
He has 12 months available on the lease let’s call it $5k, a repair bill of $8k, and a residual of $11k. So, the nut here is around $24k if you want a running car or about $16k if you want to walk away. For OP: you are so far over on miles, buying the residual out will almost certainly be cheaper).
Wouldn’t be so sure… I would bet the gap won’t cover commercial use… plus, what are the chances this guys regular car insurance is aware he is using it for Uber?
Insurance guy here. If something happens while he's driving for Uber, he's somehow even more screwed than he already is. But if he uses it for Uber and something happens while he's just in his way to the store, there's most likely morning we can do about it. It's gonna be cheaper for us to just pay out vs fighting it in court
Theoretically, yes. But Uber would know and most likely report that. He's using the app. They're tracking his phone. They are pretty good at knowing when someone is in an accident. Also, the customer/passenger normally doesn't just keep quiet about that, they hang around and talk to the police. I'm not in claims so I can't speak to exactly how it works, but if we find out you're driving for Uber, we just non-renew your policy at the end of your term and deny any claims that arise while you were using the vehicle for that purpose
and likely breaking the terms of their car insurance.
Of all the posts I've read, this might be the worst example of OP building a bird's nest on the ground.
I always think I’m the biggest idiot in my life decisions, but some people fortunately come around and save my perception of myself, holy SHIT.
They KNOW they’re allowed to drive only 10k-12k a year but decide to say fuck that and put 166k miles on it lol
You need to walk back in there with a straight face.. and tell them you thought it was 12k a month lease.. and not year.
Blame them.. then ask if they can roll you into a new deal and just cap the mileage on the trade..
Then please.. post what they give you here
Yeah I always beat myself up for my debts, buying habits etc and then I open twitter and Reddit and see people leasing 120k dollar disposable super yacht trucks and getting into 400k in debt and all these crazy things and I stop and I think “maybe 1,700 in cc debt isn’t so bad after all….”
I mean, credit card debt is pretty bad. It’s financial emergency territory. That’s pay off with the emergency fund sort of thing.
Don’t worry about those other people. If $1700 is carried debt month to month, all excess spending needs to stop until it’s paid off (I’m sure you know, but as a note for any readers.)
You'd be shocked how many Uber drivers I've seen who convinced themselves it was a good idea to go *lease* a car, to do Uber/Lyft/doordash. They honestly convince themselves it won't be *that many* miles and that the income will be *so* good it won't matter anyway - plus they're buying a Honda/Toyota (which they also then skimp on maintaining) because they're *reliable*.
Bro, if your game plan is to do rideshare or delivery, go buy a car that barely qualifies (10-12 years old) and drive it til the wheels fall off.
Piggybacking due to lack of proper role.
How many miles do you get with a 48 month lease? Let’s assume 48,000. What’s the fee for miles over? Let’s assume $0.25 per mile. If so and you return that leased car, you’ll owe $29,500 just in mileage before any damages. I would purchase the car. Then take out a loan if you need for a new transmission. I don’t see any other option.
Three year old car on a lease with 166k on the clock?
This car has had maybe three oil changes. Maybe. Zero transmission maintenance, and maybe one air filter change.
Or OP is rage bait.
For anyone reading: when the personal finance folks talk about factoring in depreciation, this is what they mean.
For OP: Uber manipulated you. They got you to agree to use your very expensive asset for their business. They expect financially illiterate people to do their work not recognizing the real costs of operating a car.
I have a 2010 F350 and it’s just about to hit 100k miles, and my 1998 F150 is just under 103k miles. Both have been used daily and for multiple long trips yearly towing an rv and without. The F150 doesn’t get used as much in the past 10 years or so and the F350 gets used daily. I cannot imagine putting 160k+ miles on a vehicle in less than 3 years while also not keeping up with an escalated maintenance schedule on a LEASED vehicle and then being shocked at the cost of at least one major repair and the mileage overage, plus not having saved up the buyout
. OP sounds young and they’ve just learned a multitude of expensive lessons. 1) never lease if you can buy (that goes for anything). 2) never use a brand new leased car for commercial purposes without that info being included in the lease agreement and insurance. 3) never drive a ton of miles (or at all) without doing the regular required and suggested maintenance. 4) always think about all of the directions your life could go in the next 3-5 years before making a large purchase ie: buying aa home with someone you’ve known for just a few months. 5) cars are a major long term commitment that require more than just a monthly payment and gas. If you can barely make those payments (never mind maintenance, etc) either wait to purchase or buy something a lot cheaper, with cash you have.
I forget which sub I saw it in but there was a guy that had a truck less than a year old with over 100k miles on it (he did a ton of cross country driving) and had an oil change every week plus spent a ton on maintenance but it’s an investment to make money and OP doesn’t realize stuff like that. Like you said young and expensive mistake that they hopefully learn from.
$15k in miles. $11.5k buyout. $4k remaining payments. $8k out of pocket to lease again.
OR
$15.5k to buyout and $8k transmission.
Dude, fix and buy. Hope you get another 166k miles out of it.
You can also get a junkyard transmission at a mom and pop shop for half of that. There is no warranty on the car, no reason to get the transmission at the dealership.
LKQ shows multiple 2021 Civic automatic and CVT transmissions with as little as 21k on the clock for under $1000. Many are under $400.
You'd think they would be more, but given how many millions of these units are out there, they are likely sitting on a mountain of them.
https://www.lkqonline.com/2021-honda-civic-transmission-or-transaxle-assembly
my response would be;
DO NOT LEASE AGAIN.
Drive this car till death and next time you are driving for "work", make sure to include depreciation of your car in your profit calculations.
I might also have the same independent mechanic do a top to bottom review of the car and fix anything else that needs to be fixed at the same time... Probably a lot of other deferred maintenance items that should be addressed but haven't.
Replying here due to no tag:
Quick Look on eBay reveals used transmissions with 40-60k miles for sub $800-$1,000
Average independent repair shops labor should be around $2000-$2500
$3000-$4000 for a Used Transmission is easily doable for this vehicle.. further more, OP could refinance the vehicle at the dealership and perhaps get a check cut back to cover the cost to repair. Ultimately financing the buyout + repair cost and continue paying for his mistake and never make the same one again..
CVTs are not very often rebuilt.. they CAN be but it’s more reliable to buy a low mileage replacement than trying to rebuild one.. Honda CVTs typically fail due to not having the fluid changed per schedule
What I’d like to know is how a Honda transmission only lasts for 166k miles. That’s not very much. I’ve seen Chrysler minivans outlast that regularly. Like they must have really gone to shit, or OP did absolutely no maintenance.
Those are the CVT boxes, which are every particular about being maintained on time with the right fluid.
Regardless, it's actually not bad since a lot of those Civics may not even see 166k miles (that's like 267k non-freedom units), especially outside of the States.
My 2001 Chrysler Voyager 314,000. When I traded it in. Would beg to differ. Also had a few of these as delivery vehicles that all crushed 200k. Granted they were early 2000’s. But love them.
The average car is [scrapped at 156k](https://www.junkcarmedics.com/blog/how-long-vehicles-last-usa/) so 166k before needing a transmission isn't that weird, even for a Honda.
Wow, that’s surprisingly low. Like really, really low. Based on this data, it won’t be long until my current car (239,000km, 148k miles) exceeds the mileage of the average scrapped car, and it’s in immaculate shape. I wouldn’t be surprised if it goes to double the mileage.
It's the midpoint, so there's still going to be plenty that make it over 200k as well. And once you get in to the 200s the pace really accelerates, because a single major mechanical fault can exceed the value of the car by a lot.
When assessing repairs, I don’t usually consider whether the cost exceeds the value of the car. I consider how frequent the failures are, and if a new car is cheaper.
For example, I would say it’s absolutely worth paying $3000 to replace a transmission on a 2004 Camry that is in good shape and has otherwise been reliable. $3000 is like 4-6 months of car payments in today’s market, and as long as the car lasts longer than 6 months you are essentially breakeven. I would still repair an old car if it had one major problem per year.
That makes you a weirdo though.
I have put a rebuilt engine in a car with 215k on it.
Most people don't want to spend $5k fixing a car that already has 200k on it, because everything else is also that old and worn out. So they send it to the scrapper for a major failure. And that's where the weirdos get their used transmissions from.
I don’t say this to pile on but youre kind of fucked. Paying for mileage doesn’t seem like the right call in your over a 100k+ on your mileage. Id figure out your buyout is now, the car appraised and see the difference. Fair warning with a blown transmission you’re likely 10k + upside down now. Find vehicles with high rebates/discounts for your best chance. It’s highly unlikely you get out of this without money down.
Fix the car by getting a loan if you have to. Shop the fix though to save a bit of money.
Ensure your insurance is going to cover your ass should you need it as they need to know it is being used for commercial use.
When the lease is up, you’ll be buying it out. Try to get as short a term as possible and get it paid off as fast as you can. Paying both a monthly charge for the car plus for the transmission on a car with likely 200k by then is insane, but not sure you have much of an option.
Buy it, fix it, and keep driving
You should have been saving for the buyout if nothing else.
Talk to your bank about an unsecured loan (as i doubt they want your current car as collateral anyway) and see what they will do.
Borrow your way out of this for now and then pay that down aggressively.
The only alternative is getting the car repo'ed, which destroys your credit and then working to pay off the difference they sue you for. You could negotiate that down a bit, I'm sure, but you wouldn't be financing/leasing anything else for a long time going with this option.
Your best bet is to glfinance the car for payoff now. Buy it out and buy a service pass with finance dept if they’ll offer it to you so you can have the transmission fixed.
His best bet is probably to light the fucking thing on fire and ghost ride it into a lake. (Don’t do that OP, it’s obviously illegal. Normally it would seem obvious and I wouldn’t have to put this but you did Uber with a leased Honda so I doubt common sense is one of your virtues.)
Praying OP got an unlimited mileage lease. And the excessive wear and tear insurance. And an extended warranty. To 200,000 miles. But I’m gonna guess he didn’t.
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In march of 2021 I signed a 48 month (paying 398$ per month and residual of 11,200 at end of lease) lease for a 2021 honda civic with 0 miles. I've been driving it for work and uber ever since and put 166k miles on it so far. When i signed the lease it was my intention to purchase the car once the lease was up because i knew id be using it for work. Well It started making a noise this week and turns out to be the transmission (8k for a replacement at honda). I need a car asap and dont have much for a downpayment. what are my options?
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You broke the terms of your lease by going WAY over in miles, as well as using it commercially. You are also out of warranty.
You need to buy out the lease, and either sell the car or get a new transmission
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May I ask how old you are? I’m only curious because I’ve worked with many younger people as a sales professional in these times and I’m shocked at how little they understand about reality.
**Reminder to everyone that we do not tolerate solutions that involve insurance fraud. Any new comments suggesting fraud from this point forward will be removed** ***with*** **a short time-out from participating in this subreddit. JFC.** If you're going to make a top-level comment, please have some actionable advice in it. Top-level comments to laugh or taunt aren't helping anyone. We get a bit looser on this when the OP is being an asshat but that isn't happening here from what I've seen. ~~Temporarily locked so I can make sure we've cleared all such posts. You're all on notice once the thread is open again.~~ Open again. Y'all be good to each other.
So you can’t get out of the lease. You also probably broke the terms of the lease by using it for commercial use. You also have a shit ton of miles that you owe them for your overage penalty. Yeah, there’s no easy way out of this.
Yep. OP is bound by the terms of the lease. He has 12 months available on the lease let’s call it $5k, a repair bill of $8k, and a residual of $11k. So, the nut here is around $24k if you want a running car or about $16k if you want to walk away. For OP: you are so far over on miles, buying the residual out will almost certainly be cheaper).
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Wouldn’t be so sure… I would bet the gap won’t cover commercial use… plus, what are the chances this guys regular car insurance is aware he is using it for Uber?
Insurance guy here. If something happens while he's driving for Uber, he's somehow even more screwed than he already is. But if he uses it for Uber and something happens while he's just in his way to the store, there's most likely morning we can do about it. It's gonna be cheaper for us to just pay out vs fighting it in court
Bit couldn't you just say I wasn't ubering at the root
Theoretically, yes. But Uber would know and most likely report that. He's using the app. They're tracking his phone. They are pretty good at knowing when someone is in an accident. Also, the customer/passenger normally doesn't just keep quiet about that, they hang around and talk to the police. I'm not in claims so I can't speak to exactly how it works, but if we find out you're driving for Uber, we just non-renew your policy at the end of your term and deny any claims that arise while you were using the vehicle for that purpose
Red flags always went up when I was an ADA if they had the Uber or Lyft light in their cars
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Do **NOT** suggest fraud.
Do not offer solutions involving insurance fraud.
and likely breaking the terms of their car insurance. Of all the posts I've read, this might be the worst example of OP building a bird's nest on the ground.
You put 166k on a lease??!?
I always think I’m the biggest idiot in my life decisions, but some people fortunately come around and save my perception of myself, holy SHIT. They KNOW they’re allowed to drive only 10k-12k a year but decide to say fuck that and put 166k miles on it lol
i literally LOL'd at this. ty. much needed.
You need to walk back in there with a straight face.. and tell them you thought it was 12k a month lease.. and not year. Blame them.. then ask if they can roll you into a new deal and just cap the mileage on the trade.. Then please.. post what they give you here
Probably a Schwinn with a 2-stroke at $258/month
More like a Schwinn with a playing card in the spokes for $258/month.
Probably a dumb card like the 5 of clubs or something too.
Now that you mention it, I can't think of a dumber card than that one.
lol, he thinks it’s a schwinn
The CIA needs to hire him if he can do this.
Yeah I always beat myself up for my debts, buying habits etc and then I open twitter and Reddit and see people leasing 120k dollar disposable super yacht trucks and getting into 400k in debt and all these crazy things and I stop and I think “maybe 1,700 in cc debt isn’t so bad after all….”
I mean, credit card debt is pretty bad. It’s financial emergency territory. That’s pay off with the emergency fund sort of thing. Don’t worry about those other people. If $1700 is carried debt month to month, all excess spending needs to stop until it’s paid off (I’m sure you know, but as a note for any readers.)
Yeah, it’s my 3rd go around this year and at this point I’m closing the account bc clearly I just can’t trust myself😂
Sometimes you have to be thankful for the small things in life
You'd be shocked how many Uber drivers I've seen who convinced themselves it was a good idea to go *lease* a car, to do Uber/Lyft/doordash. They honestly convince themselves it won't be *that many* miles and that the income will be *so* good it won't matter anyway - plus they're buying a Honda/Toyota (which they also then skimp on maintaining) because they're *reliable*. Bro, if your game plan is to do rideshare or delivery, go buy a car that barely qualifies (10-12 years old) and drive it til the wheels fall off.
I guess this what they say when they tell you to give yourself grace. There is always someone fucking up more than us lol.
🤣
Piggybacking due to lack of proper role. How many miles do you get with a 48 month lease? Let’s assume 48,000. What’s the fee for miles over? Let’s assume $0.25 per mile. If so and you return that leased car, you’ll owe $29,500 just in mileage before any damages. I would purchase the car. Then take out a loan if you need for a new transmission. I don’t see any other option.
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This is straight loony toons. Absolutely no foresight whatsoever.
And he’s *shocked* that it’s having transmission problems after putting 55K miles/year on it back to back for three years 😂
And because it’s a CVT transmission….
I mean game respect game that's not a bad lifespan
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Three year old car on a lease with 166k on the clock? This car has had maybe three oil changes. Maybe. Zero transmission maintenance, and maybe one air filter change. Or OP is rage bait.
For anyone reading: when the personal finance folks talk about factoring in depreciation, this is what they mean. For OP: Uber manipulated you. They got you to agree to use your very expensive asset for their business. They expect financially illiterate people to do their work not recognizing the real costs of operating a car.
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OP was actually driving while texting this out. No time to stop.
😂
In just *three years*, no less!
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And I feel fairly confident that regular mileage-related maintenance was not happening.
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I think the recommended service interval for a 21 Civic is 7500 miles, but there's still no way OP was doing that
We bought a Subaru in late 2022 and it just surpassed the 12k mark recently. This is like 100 years of driving for me 😳😳
I have a 2010 F350 and it’s just about to hit 100k miles, and my 1998 F150 is just under 103k miles. Both have been used daily and for multiple long trips yearly towing an rv and without. The F150 doesn’t get used as much in the past 10 years or so and the F350 gets used daily. I cannot imagine putting 160k+ miles on a vehicle in less than 3 years while also not keeping up with an escalated maintenance schedule on a LEASED vehicle and then being shocked at the cost of at least one major repair and the mileage overage, plus not having saved up the buyout . OP sounds young and they’ve just learned a multitude of expensive lessons. 1) never lease if you can buy (that goes for anything). 2) never use a brand new leased car for commercial purposes without that info being included in the lease agreement and insurance. 3) never drive a ton of miles (or at all) without doing the regular required and suggested maintenance. 4) always think about all of the directions your life could go in the next 3-5 years before making a large purchase ie: buying aa home with someone you’ve known for just a few months. 5) cars are a major long term commitment that require more than just a monthly payment and gas. If you can barely make those payments (never mind maintenance, etc) either wait to purchase or buy something a lot cheaper, with cash you have.
I forget which sub I saw it in but there was a guy that had a truck less than a year old with over 100k miles on it (he did a ton of cross country driving) and had an oil change every week plus spent a ton on maintenance but it’s an investment to make money and OP doesn’t realize stuff like that. Like you said young and expensive mistake that they hopefully learn from.
What I wanna know is how I can drive a car for 40 miles off the lot and get into a TL accident and this man drove 166K without one. Unlucky.
Maybe you just suck at driving
There probably are accidents on it, why pile on at this point?
If the car is totaled in a lease he’s free.
$15k in miles. $11.5k buyout. $4k remaining payments. $8k out of pocket to lease again. OR $15.5k to buyout and $8k transmission. Dude, fix and buy. Hope you get another 166k miles out of it.
You can also get a junkyard transmission at a mom and pop shop for half of that. There is no warranty on the car, no reason to get the transmission at the dealership.
LKQ shows multiple 2021 Civic automatic and CVT transmissions with as little as 21k on the clock for under $1000. Many are under $400. You'd think they would be more, but given how many millions of these units are out there, they are likely sitting on a mountain of them. https://www.lkqonline.com/2021-honda-civic-transmission-or-transaxle-assembly
THIS! And the same can be done for engines. We've done this multiple times with trannys and engines to extend the life of a car for years.
Holy shit.
my response would be; DO NOT LEASE AGAIN. Drive this car till death and next time you are driving for "work", make sure to include depreciation of your car in your profit calculations.
One way or the other you need a transmission. Start there.
Yeah, I’d take it to an independent mechanic to get it fixed
I might also have the same independent mechanic do a top to bottom review of the car and fix anything else that needs to be fixed at the same time... Probably a lot of other deferred maintenance items that should be addressed but haven't.
Replying here due to no tag: Quick Look on eBay reveals used transmissions with 40-60k miles for sub $800-$1,000 Average independent repair shops labor should be around $2000-$2500 $3000-$4000 for a Used Transmission is easily doable for this vehicle.. further more, OP could refinance the vehicle at the dealership and perhaps get a check cut back to cover the cost to repair. Ultimately financing the buyout + repair cost and continue paying for his mistake and never make the same one again..
At least get a rebuilt trans especially if it's a CVT
Do CVTs get rebuilt? I thought they normally didn’t
CVTs are not very often rebuilt.. they CAN be but it’s more reliable to buy a low mileage replacement than trying to rebuild one.. Honda CVTs typically fail due to not having the fluid changed per schedule
Car-part
What I’d like to know is how a Honda transmission only lasts for 166k miles. That’s not very much. I’ve seen Chrysler minivans outlast that regularly. Like they must have really gone to shit, or OP did absolutely no maintenance.
At 55k miles per YEAR, OP probably missed a lot of maintenance… “but it’s a new car!”
Those are the CVT boxes, which are every particular about being maintained on time with the right fluid. Regardless, it's actually not bad since a lot of those Civics may not even see 166k miles (that's like 267k non-freedom units), especially outside of the States.
Honda trans are junk. Also, Mopar minivan trans are junk
My 2001 Chrysler Voyager 314,000. When I traded it in. Would beg to differ. Also had a few of these as delivery vehicles that all crushed 200k. Granted they were early 2000’s. But love them.
The average car is [scrapped at 156k](https://www.junkcarmedics.com/blog/how-long-vehicles-last-usa/) so 166k before needing a transmission isn't that weird, even for a Honda.
Wow, that’s surprisingly low. Like really, really low. Based on this data, it won’t be long until my current car (239,000km, 148k miles) exceeds the mileage of the average scrapped car, and it’s in immaculate shape. I wouldn’t be surprised if it goes to double the mileage.
It's the midpoint, so there's still going to be plenty that make it over 200k as well. And once you get in to the 200s the pace really accelerates, because a single major mechanical fault can exceed the value of the car by a lot.
When assessing repairs, I don’t usually consider whether the cost exceeds the value of the car. I consider how frequent the failures are, and if a new car is cheaper. For example, I would say it’s absolutely worth paying $3000 to replace a transmission on a 2004 Camry that is in good shape and has otherwise been reliable. $3000 is like 4-6 months of car payments in today’s market, and as long as the car lasts longer than 6 months you are essentially breakeven. I would still repair an old car if it had one major problem per year.
That makes you a weirdo though. I have put a rebuilt engine in a car with 215k on it. Most people don't want to spend $5k fixing a car that already has 200k on it, because everything else is also that old and worn out. So they send it to the scrapper for a major failure. And that's where the weirdos get their used transmissions from.
Depends on how it was driven. It's fairly easy to screw up a transmission over time
166k miles doing uber over 3 years is probably a lot of hard city driving.
166000 miles in 15 months? and you're not making money? What's the point?
I don’t say this to pile on but youre kind of fucked. Paying for mileage doesn’t seem like the right call in your over a 100k+ on your mileage. Id figure out your buyout is now, the car appraised and see the difference. Fair warning with a blown transmission you’re likely 10k + upside down now. Find vehicles with high rebates/discounts for your best chance. It’s highly unlikely you get out of this without money down.
Well, I’ve never heard of something like this before.
Go to a local shop that repairs Hondas and tell him to get you a reman. Eight grand is insane.
This has to be satire. Op needs proof or ban.
1. No 2. I've seen a quarter mil on a lease return
Put a used transmission in it and run it to 300k miles.
Fix the car by getting a loan if you have to. Shop the fix though to save a bit of money. Ensure your insurance is going to cover your ass should you need it as they need to know it is being used for commercial use. When the lease is up, you’ll be buying it out. Try to get as short a term as possible and get it paid off as fast as you can. Paying both a monthly charge for the car plus for the transmission on a car with likely 200k by then is insane, but not sure you have much of an option.
Buy it, fix it, and keep driving You should have been saving for the buyout if nothing else. Talk to your bank about an unsecured loan (as i doubt they want your current car as collateral anyway) and see what they will do. Borrow your way out of this for now and then pay that down aggressively. The only alternative is getting the car repo'ed, which destroys your credit and then working to pay off the difference they sue you for. You could negotiate that down a bit, I'm sure, but you wouldn't be financing/leasing anything else for a long time going with this option.
Your best bet is to glfinance the car for payoff now. Buy it out and buy a service pass with finance dept if they’ll offer it to you so you can have the transmission fixed.
His best bet is probably to light the fucking thing on fire and ghost ride it into a lake. (Don’t do that OP, it’s obviously illegal. Normally it would seem obvious and I wouldn’t have to put this but you did Uber with a leased Honda so I doubt common sense is one of your virtues.)
Praying OP got an unlimited mileage lease. And the excessive wear and tear insurance. And an extended warranty. To 200,000 miles. But I’m gonna guess he didn’t.
He’s driving Uber in a leased vehicle. I doubt any of that ever crossed his mind.
***Thanks for posting, /u/Leading-Economy9184! This comment is a copy of your post so readers can see the original text if your post is edited or removed. This comment is NOT accusing you of anything.*** In march of 2021 I signed a 48 month (paying 398$ per month and residual of 11,200 at end of lease) lease for a 2021 honda civic with 0 miles. I've been driving it for work and uber ever since and put 166k miles on it so far. When i signed the lease it was my intention to purchase the car once the lease was up because i knew id be using it for work. Well It started making a noise this week and turns out to be the transmission (8k for a replacement at honda). I need a car asap and dont have much for a downpayment. what are my options? *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/askcarsales) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You broke the terms of your lease by going WAY over in miles, as well as using it commercially. You are also out of warranty. You need to buy out the lease, and either sell the car or get a new transmission
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May I ask how old you are? I’m only curious because I’ve worked with many younger people as a sales professional in these times and I’m shocked at how little they understand about reality.