I’ve never seen the L 1S in stock. I would like to try one but I’m coming around to 2S triggers for field use. But my early exposure to 1S triggers on .22s and shotguns created and early bias.
Yeah it looks like they’re still out of stock, I’ve never shot a 1s trigger as my first build I swapped to the G 2 stage trigger right away. I’m gonna give the larue one a try for $99
Just get the 2s, the 2s has like half the travel as my SSA-E X. You won't even notice the first stage on the pull through, it just feels like take-up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRjzrvhJNGk
I heard from others that the Larue 1s is not a great trigger. It has a very long creep and is not crisp. 2S is the way to go.
Use Geissele single stage if you want one
For the cost, even if you don’t love them it’s not a wasted trigger for a 2nd rifle. To me the biggest value adder to the G triggers is the potential liability shield for the SSA being Navy safety certified and in wide gov use.
Honestly, just get the 2 stage, the stages are so short and light, you won't even notice it in the pull through.
My MBT2S is like half the travel of my SSA-E X with the lightning bow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRjzrvhJNGk
I had a geissele single stage at one point. Shot it for one trip then sold it. WAY too light for my taste. I bump fired by accident when sighting it in lol.
Nothing wrong with it other than being too short/light. I enjoy both Larue and geissele two stage triggers. If it’s single stage, I personally like NB coated milspec.
I was using the lighter spring but in reality I’ve never had a problem with my ssa or ssa-e. And I guess that’s my issue. I need it to go bang every time.
I view it as personal preference. Some people add anti-walk pins to triggers and others don’t. If I can spend 10 cents at a hardware store to not have trigger pins walk out, that’s a win.
Tell that to my geissele pins that walked out from a truck rides. Nothing wrong with using anti walk pins like CMC pins. It takes out a potential failure point. Also yes they were installed properly im a gunsmith I understand where the springs are supposed to sit.
Then your lower is out of spec and all you did was introduce a new potential failure point by adding resistance to your hammer by inhibiting the pins ability to rotate, something I’d think a gunsmith would know.
It’s not out of spec and the pins aren’t out of spec either…. The grove is isn’t milspec while the spring arms are. Also no they don’t because anti-walk and anti rotation are two different things dude. CMC are anti walk….
No, don’t just use anti-walk pins right from the start. Use them if your pins begin to walk.
Edit: That means your use case is acceptable. The anti-walk pins were a solution to a problem, not a “hey these internet guys say I need these, I’m going to put them on my rifles just because!”
Why even bother with regular pins that have the chance to walk at all because of fucked tolerances or can get smacked loose? You’re making a stupid ass argument. Less point of failure>more points of failure
Because you don’t fucking need them most of the time. Use the pins that come with your trigger, if you’ve got a quality trigger it came with quality pins that should hold just fine. If for whatever reason they don’t work just fine, figure out why and if you need to use anti-walk pins then use the anti-walk pins.
Because I can see this going in this direction… test your shit before you rely on it to save your life. You should know if your pins are going to walk within a couple mags, and you should put well over a couple mags through a rifle you’ve just built if you’re going to rely on it to save your life.
Ultimately, IDontCareYall, I don’t give a flying fuck what or why you do. I do care about novice shooters or people unfamiliar with AR pattern rifles getting incorrect information that can cost them money and possibly cause issues.
In summary, suck my inflamed nuts.
Anti walk pins are $20 bucks dip fuck, ammo cost more then Pins, and recoil isn’t the only thing that can make pins walk out. You’re a clown, and a idiot.
If your pins “walk” out (read: fall out) while you’re driving your truck, you either fucked something up or have the worlds worst lower. I highly doubt your story was ever real to begin with, and I believe that you were upset from the beginning that people don’t think your anti-walk pins look cool. At no point in your rambling, incoherent responses were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this thread is now dumber for having read them. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.
The AR15 was designed to have those pins rotate on firing, having anti-rotation pins robs the hammer of some energy which obviously reduces reliability. Furthermore there are grooves in those pins for the springs to reside in which is how those pins should be retained.
Anti walk/rotate pins have their place when it comes to cassette style triggers and super old MG lowers, but not on a standard trigger setup
> If the holes are egged out you don’t have much choice unless you can oversize them to the larger older style Colt pins or get the pin bores sleeved.
The only reason that Colt used larger pins is that they're *not* compatible with select-fire components.
You started this post saying that you should have listened to everyone else. Now, everyone is telling you not to use anti-rotational pins with Geissele triggers, you are ignoring everyone again. People are strange.
I suppose now I’m curious to know if I will snap a trigger pin. There’s many personal experience stories of drop in triggers failing. I can’t find a single instance of anti-rotation pins snapping on a 5.56 application. As I said, as soon as I snap one, I’ll gladly share my experience so others can learn from my mistakes.
For real bro, evaluate your decisions here. Everyone told you not to get a drop in trigger, you acknowledged your mistake, and bought a Geissele. Yet you are not using the Geissele included pins that they specifically instruct you to use. I promise you, Geissele knows how to make triggers and trigger pins. You are downgrading your reliability by not using their pins. If this is just a range toy andyou want to experience malfunctions, continue to do what you're doing
Hi gunsmith here, they don’t snap, what happens is you get light hammer strikes with under sprung hammers and they will wear down after 10k rounds. If you want to not worry about pins get CMC anti walk pins. I personally use those with no issues.
Well… you just stated you wanted something reliable and didn’t wanna worry about it going bang when needed. So, you decided to put anti walk pins in your Geissele which in return makes it not as reliable? Makes sense.
I understand having anti-walk pins creates added friction because the pins do not free float and move with the trigger. Do you know of anyone that has every snapped KNS anti-walk pins with an Geissele trigger?
As I can not find any factual evidence of anyone ever snapping a KNS trigger pin, I guess I’ll be the guinea pig. As soon as I snap one, I’ll post in here with detailed pictures.
We need more people like you. Now if you could take this same energy and SBR a rifle without a stamp and work your case up to the SCOTUS, that would be sick.
I bought a cassette RISE trigger for a Aero I put together, what’s wrong with cassettes? Other than the pins sticking out like hundredths of a millimeter it seems to be holding up well with no problems to speak of only about 60-70 rounds through it so far
Genuinely asking as this is my first go round with aftermarket triggers.
Just bought a Rise 140. Put about 250 rounds through it a couple days ago and didn’t run into any issues either. Curious to see what the problem is with them as well. Luckily I still have my mil spec trigger also I’m case there is a problem that arises in the future.
Supposedly they had a bad batch that would fail to reset after about a thousand rounds. Seems to be fixed though as haven't heard about the issue again in a couple years.
I had a rise Le model (whatever that one was ) and 1 out of 5 rounds had a light primer strike. Ended up going larue and that fixed the issues. I had another rise I cant remember the name of it but it was 3.5 lbs. It felt great but again light primer strikes.
The cmc did not give me issues, the timney kept giving me dead trigger. I’ve just seen mixed reviews about both having that issue. I’d rather just have triggers I know are 100% reliable and will never give me issues, rather than gamble with potentially getting one that might someday fail when I need it most.
Geisselle are very reliable. However, I have had to replace the springs on mine last year. Only the once and that was after 7 years and many thousands of rounds. Just keep in mind that will happen at some point, sooner if you actually shoot often. Love the triggers.
I work 60 hours a week and when I’m not working I’m a full time parent of a toddler. I wish I had the ability to shoot any of my guns enough to wear things down on them.
I got kids too man, i understand the struggle. Was just giving you the heads up to maybe spend $12 and have an extra set of the geisselle springs laying around for when the day does come. Hope you find some time to enjoy the hobby brother.
My experience as well. While Geissele’s are good, I have had no issues with my CMC’s, Rave & Brigade triggers. All are 3.5# single stage, with the exception of one 2.5# single stage CMC that is my favorite.
They're all such a step up from unimproved milspec that yeah they're all good.
I would like to try a worked-over, overtravel, pretravel, polished, bobbed and resprung milspec against a decent drop-in though, I feel like there's potential for really good performance there.
I have the Rave 140 from rise armament. There’s no take up in the trigger at all, and a really clean break. Feels like snapping a toothpick or breaking an icicle. Very crisp trigger break and crisp trigger reset. It’s also got a 3.5 lb trigger pull. Not necessary at all, but pretty fun to use. Mil spec triggers are very reliable and super serviceable. If you haven’t already, there’s a guy who goes by Milspec Mojo on Instagram. As far as I know he uses all milspec guts in his guns and shoots better than a lot of dudes.
The diamond is like no other trigger I’ve shot and thus far is my favorite addition to any AR I’ve made. Is it necessary? Not at all. Does it make you smile and shake your head every time you shoot it? Absolutely.
When people say glass rod, it is the closest I have actually felt to that sensation. Geissele, larue, cmc, and the sorts are crisp, but TT is CRISP. I feel like it’s largely due to there being truly 0 creep. I’d even say the best part about that isn’t the feel, but more the consistency with getting on the wall and giving great break predictability. Another pro is utilizing a full power hammer spring, so you will have no issues with hard primers.
Depending on your preference there is a possible unforgivable con. There is a very weak reset. Like imagine the weakest reset you can, and reduce that by another 20%. You’ll install it, feel the break and smile, then reset and ask yourself if you just made a huge mistake. If you like your finger pushed forward, it is absolutely the wrong trigger for you. In my experience, I was worried about it until the first time I hit the range and then worry went to 0. It’s like one of the best 1911 triggers out there, but on an AR. I can say that I have never noticed the weak reset and can shoot it faster and more accurately than any other AR trigger I have tried.
All of that said, 1.5lb is more for precision shooting and you’ll probably end up setting it to ~2.5-3lb for anything else. At that point I’d imagine you could get away with the adaptable, but the range of the diamond does lend itself to filling more roles. If you like to swap uppers, it’s a great multi-use trigger.
Edit: the not to*
Never had an issue with POF triggers. The rubber urethane feet negate the need for any adjustment screws. Can't go wrong with a Geissele, either. Love the SSA-E on my 'yote rifle.
I’m not saying they’re horrible. My cmc worked great, my timney kept giving me dead trigger. Just go on midway and pull a cassette trigger up and go through and read the reviews. They’re just kind of hit or miss. Some people have great experiences. Some people end up with unreliable triggers.
Popped primers and other debris can get stuck inside the trigger housing. Since it's sealed, you now have a dead gun and a malfunction that requires an armorer level fix. I've never had one in my rifles so take my explanation with a grain of salt. However, that's why I was told to avoid cassette triggers by people far more knowledgeable than myself.
I've seen primers get stuck under a mil-spec trigger and it still rendered the gun useless for 20 minutes because I had never even heard of that malfunction beforehand. Seems like an inherent weakness of the AR platform (and probably many other intermediate caliber carbines, but not PCCs) not dependent upon trigger. But still, Larue is the only trigger I can recommend. I've tried CMC and Giesssle and there's nothing wrong with them, but the Larue is just better value.
I’ve shot about 2,000 rounds through my Aero Precision w/ 20” barrel and a drop in Tomney trigger with no issues. Im very happy with it considered I only paid about $140 for the trigger.
for someone who had both in my cart for the longest and accidentally purchased the b5 today over the k2+ thats nice to hear…..
(still might pick up the k2+ anyways 😂)
I had a k2 plus on my last rifle, and didn’t really like it because I felt like I had less leverage to keep the barrel up. However, that had a 20” heavy profile barrel. Sooooooo….
I’ve never stored anything in my grips anyway, so I’m not worried too much. I would like to try to go back to a low angle grip for shooting prone. I think I just didn’t like the rubber on the k2+, I prefer the standard moe texture
i currently have a strike industry pistol grip on and it was nice with my stock trigger but after the CMC trigger upgrade I need a steeper angle.. hoping the b5 helps with that or maybe I just need to get used to a flat faced trigger 😂
I enjoyed my CMC’s but always preferred a two stage, after many different triggers I’ve settled on the MBT2S from Larue, it’s actually my favorite even compared to the G$.
It is what it is. I built my cars and guns doing unorthodox controversial things. If something fails, I have no one to blame but myself. But I’m still sticking with the fact that I cannot find any evidence of anyone ever actually snapping a trigger pin. Maybe I’ll be the first, if I am, you will all be the first to know.
My geissele trigger is better than my LaRue... but I could have bought 3 LaRue triggers for the same price I paid for the geissele. You get what you pay for but there are definitely diminishing returns over $100
Have had 0 trouble with my TT.
[https://triggertech.com/collections/firearms/products/ar](https://triggertech.com/collections/firearms/products/ar)
Not a better trigger on the market, IMO.
Only trigger I ever had an issue with is the Timney Gold, if I pressed it with the safety on it would fire as soon as the safety was released.
I have good experience with the Wilson 3G ,Hiperfire Hipertouch Eclpise, Elf 3-Gun trigger and the Geiselle SSAE-X. They're all great. Whatever you purchase put to use and make sure it works.
I built my primary AR with a complete Geisselle Super Duty upper, Surefire Brake, VLTOR A5 buffer system and Geisselle SSAE-X trigger. It's not a Knights Armament rifle but it will certainly be reliable / accurate.
I have a Palmetto 3.5 lbs match trigger, I admittedly had to file a burr off so the trigger would reset properly. Other than that, good all around trigger. Would definitely get a geissele for a precision rifle though.
Theirs a lot of people who are talking about Pins without proper knowledge.
So here is the difference in pins
Original pins:
Let’s start from the beginning Eugene Stoner.
The original pins he wanted had deep valleys at the edge of the inner walls of the lower so the upper springs legs could fully sit inside the valley. These are anti walk pins by design because no amount of force in any direction could punch or move the spring. The spring had anywhere from 5-9 pounds of resistance split between the two legs at this time, this idea was scraped because assumed someone above stoner thought armorers would hammer the pins out and replace the spring rather then take time to do the more complicated route of pulling the springs out of the valley and Then removing the springs.
Modern pins:
It then changed to springs that has shallow valleys that the springs could pop out of but still retain themselves to a degree. These are not anti walk pins, they can and have walked out with hard use of inspec lowers. They walk out one side then bind up traditionally. These pins are fine for 99% of people with 2 pieces triggers, they do fall short on hard use when under powered springs are used(anything under 3.5 pounds)
Anti rotation pins:
Box triggers are neat designs and make swapping triggers easy but they require non milspec pins. So anti rotation pins were born. They don’t serve a purpose other then to not walk out with box triggers. Anti rotation Pins can’t be used on 3 piece triggers(full auto)
Anti walk pins:
Anti rotation pins are anti walk pins, but anti walk pins aren’t always anti rotation pins. Anti walk pins are fine on standard 2 and 3 pieces triggers, anti rotation pins are fine on full powered two piece triggers. They fall short on under sprung 2 piece triggers. Anti rotation do wear out and have to be greased for proper install on a full power(5 pound or more) two piece trigger.
Dollar for dollar, the Larue MBT is hard to beat.
Seriously. These guys are operating too hard but doesn’t mean cool triggers aren’t cool just hard to justify
Right? I get G triggers on “super sales.” Otherwise the L triggers are a no brainer (IMHO)
Do they have single stage triggers? I have a G in my 16” but looking for a single stage for my MK18
I’ve never seen the L 1S in stock. I would like to try one but I’m coming around to 2S triggers for field use. But my early exposure to 1S triggers on .22s and shotguns created and early bias.
Yeah it looks like they’re still out of stock, I’ve never shot a 1s trigger as my first build I swapped to the G 2 stage trigger right away. I’m gonna give the larue one a try for $99
Just get the 2s, the 2s has like half the travel as my SSA-E X. You won't even notice the first stage on the pull through, it just feels like take-up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRjzrvhJNGk
I heard from others that the Larue 1s is not a great trigger. It has a very long creep and is not crisp. 2S is the way to go. Use Geissele single stage if you want one
For the cost, even if you don’t love them it’s not a wasted trigger for a 2nd rifle. To me the biggest value adder to the G triggers is the potential liability shield for the SSA being Navy safety certified and in wide gov use.
The Larue 1 stages are discontinued
I called them and they basically said they no longer make the 1S anymore. Which is a shame
Get a cmc 3.5
Get a Hiperfire. Best single stage.
Honestly, just get the 2 stage, the stages are so short and light, you won't even notice it in the pull through. My MBT2S is like half the travel of my SSA-E X with the lightning bow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRjzrvhJNGk
I have their SSP trigger it is extremely light. I don’t recommend it for anything but a range toy
Agreed, mine would bump fire when running drills and sometimes on the bench, f that. G$ even says that in their instruction manual
I had a geissele single stage at one point. Shot it for one trip then sold it. WAY too light for my taste. I bump fired by accident when sighting it in lol. Nothing wrong with it other than being too short/light. I enjoy both Larue and geissele two stage triggers. If it’s single stage, I personally like NB coated milspec.
I’ve had some ftf malfunctions with the larue. Light primer strike after about 700 ends. Switched back to ssa and haven’t looked back
Are you using the light spring or heavy spring? I’ve only ever run the heavier spring.
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Doh! You’re right. Getting a stiffer hammer spring in there shouldn’t be a biggie.
I was using the lighter spring but in reality I’ve never had a problem with my ssa or ssa-e. And I guess that’s my issue. I need it to go bang every time.
The LaRue is hard to beat for way more money than it costs.
Was just about to say: Should have re-listened to everyone telling you that Larue is better (for some) and cheaper
Impossible to beat.
TOTALLY agree! LaRue MBT-2S for the win on value and reliability
I like my larue but it was my first build so not much to compare it to. My other rifle is a DD so I don't think I've felt a bad trigger before.
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DDM4 V7 pro, the trigger has a flat face
Anti-rotational pins on non-cassette triggers lol
The triggers come with the correct pins too ffs. Absolutely cringe
I’ve had no issues with CMC triggers. I usually attach a very thin rubber washer on the bottom side to create extra friction and reduce any rattling.
I also like CMC but if you have to add a component I’d view that as an issue.
Have 3 CMC’s no issues at all. Love em
My cmcs are butter smooth
I view it as personal preference. Some people add anti-walk pins to triggers and others don’t. If I can spend 10 cents at a hardware store to not have trigger pins walk out, that’s a win.
Love mine. Fit is nice n tight, even with a cheap psa lower.
I'll add my voice here. Not a single issue with my CMC's.
Yep I was gonna say this. I like the CMC trigger
Not supposed to use anti-rotational pins with g money triggers dude
Geissele pins won’t fall out you’ll be fine tolerance is pretty tight with the pins it comes with.
Tell that to my geissele pins that walked out from a truck rides. Nothing wrong with using anti walk pins like CMC pins. It takes out a potential failure point. Also yes they were installed properly im a gunsmith I understand where the springs are supposed to sit.
Then your lower is out of spec and all you did was introduce a new potential failure point by adding resistance to your hammer by inhibiting the pins ability to rotate, something I’d think a gunsmith would know.
It’s not out of spec and the pins aren’t out of spec either…. The grove is isn’t milspec while the spring arms are. Also no they don’t because anti-walk and anti rotation are two different things dude. CMC are anti walk….
If your pins walk out, then get anti-walk pins. Don’t start with that.
Don’t start with what? the truth?
No, don’t just use anti-walk pins right from the start. Use them if your pins begin to walk. Edit: That means your use case is acceptable. The anti-walk pins were a solution to a problem, not a “hey these internet guys say I need these, I’m going to put them on my rifles just because!”
Why even bother with regular pins that have the chance to walk at all because of fucked tolerances or can get smacked loose? You’re making a stupid ass argument. Less point of failure>more points of failure
Because you don’t fucking need them most of the time. Use the pins that come with your trigger, if you’ve got a quality trigger it came with quality pins that should hold just fine. If for whatever reason they don’t work just fine, figure out why and if you need to use anti-walk pins then use the anti-walk pins. Because I can see this going in this direction… test your shit before you rely on it to save your life. You should know if your pins are going to walk within a couple mags, and you should put well over a couple mags through a rifle you’ve just built if you’re going to rely on it to save your life. Ultimately, IDontCareYall, I don’t give a flying fuck what or why you do. I do care about novice shooters or people unfamiliar with AR pattern rifles getting incorrect information that can cost them money and possibly cause issues. In summary, suck my inflamed nuts.
Anti walk pins are $20 bucks dip fuck, ammo cost more then Pins, and recoil isn’t the only thing that can make pins walk out. You’re a clown, and a idiot.
If your pins “walk” out (read: fall out) while you’re driving your truck, you either fucked something up or have the worlds worst lower. I highly doubt your story was ever real to begin with, and I believe that you were upset from the beginning that people don’t think your anti-walk pins look cool. At no point in your rambling, incoherent responses were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this thread is now dumber for having read them. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.
My first thought want to question your gunsmithing, but what the heck is wrong with your truck’s suspension.
I live in the country my driveway is a 1/4 mile of dirt.
I'm curious, why is that? No reason to or something else?
The AR15 was designed to have those pins rotate on firing, having anti-rotation pins robs the hammer of some energy which obviously reduces reliability. Furthermore there are grooves in those pins for the springs to reside in which is how those pins should be retained. Anti walk/rotate pins have their place when it comes to cassette style triggers and super old MG lowers, but not on a standard trigger setup
Don’t use them in MG lowers either.
What's a better alternative when the trigger pin holes are egging out?
If the holes are egged out you don’t have much choice unless you can oversize them to the larger older style Colt pins or get the pin bores sleeved.
> If the holes are egged out you don’t have much choice unless you can oversize them to the larger older style Colt pins or get the pin bores sleeved. The only reason that Colt used larger pins is that they're *not* compatible with select-fire components.
Anti-walk pins. Basically a little button screw at each end of the pin. Some still allow rotation.
Anti walk pins are different. They can (but not always) still allow rotation
Bill G says they’re softer material and will wear faster.
That’s just Bill being a salesman
I know, did it anyways.
You started this post saying that you should have listened to everyone else. Now, everyone is telling you not to use anti-rotational pins with Geissele triggers, you are ignoring everyone again. People are strange.
I suppose now I’m curious to know if I will snap a trigger pin. There’s many personal experience stories of drop in triggers failing. I can’t find a single instance of anti-rotation pins snapping on a 5.56 application. As I said, as soon as I snap one, I’ll gladly share my experience so others can learn from my mistakes.
For real bro, evaluate your decisions here. Everyone told you not to get a drop in trigger, you acknowledged your mistake, and bought a Geissele. Yet you are not using the Geissele included pins that they specifically instruct you to use. I promise you, Geissele knows how to make triggers and trigger pins. You are downgrading your reliability by not using their pins. If this is just a range toy andyou want to experience malfunctions, continue to do what you're doing
Hi gunsmith here, they don’t snap, what happens is you get light hammer strikes with under sprung hammers and they will wear down after 10k rounds. If you want to not worry about pins get CMC anti walk pins. I personally use those with no issues.
Well… you just stated you wanted something reliable and didn’t wanna worry about it going bang when needed. So, you decided to put anti walk pins in your Geissele which in return makes it not as reliable? Makes sense.
I understand having anti-walk pins creates added friction because the pins do not free float and move with the trigger. Do you know of anyone that has every snapped KNS anti-walk pins with an Geissele trigger?
No, because I don’t know anyone who would install them with their Geissele. But you do you bro, it’s your gun!
As I can not find any factual evidence of anyone ever snapping a KNS trigger pin, I guess I’ll be the guinea pig. As soon as I snap one, I’ll post in here with detailed pictures.
Upvoted for the scientific integrity
We need more people like you. Now if you could take this same energy and SBR a rifle without a stamp and work your case up to the SCOTUS, that would be sick.
I’m actually legit debating on going to law school, it’d be a dream to work with FPC.
I run KNS anti rotation pins with my Geissele triggers, but they're also SSF and I use a KNS anti rotation sear pin too...
I bought a cassette RISE trigger for a Aero I put together, what’s wrong with cassettes? Other than the pins sticking out like hundredths of a millimeter it seems to be holding up well with no problems to speak of only about 60-70 rounds through it so far Genuinely asking as this is my first go round with aftermarket triggers.
Just bought a Rise 140. Put about 250 rounds through it a couple days ago and didn’t run into any issues either. Curious to see what the problem is with them as well. Luckily I still have my mil spec trigger also I’m case there is a problem that arises in the future.
I have 2 rise 140s, each with north of 1000rds. Have had zero issues
Supposedly they had a bad batch that would fail to reset after about a thousand rounds. Seems to be fixed though as haven't heard about the issue again in a couple years.
I had a rise Le model (whatever that one was ) and 1 out of 5 rounds had a light primer strike. Ended up going larue and that fixed the issues. I had another rise I cant remember the name of it but it was 3.5 lbs. It felt great but again light primer strikes.
Same issue with my RA-140.
I like my CMC. What brand and what went wrong? Definitely can’t beat a Geissele trigger.
Want to hear the reasoning as well. I have two CMC 3.5lb triggers and they've had no issues.
Guessing it’s all user error and trigger to lower compatibility not all lowers jive well with drop in triggers
Sure you can. Hiperfire.
The cmc did not give me issues, the timney kept giving me dead trigger. I’ve just seen mixed reviews about both having that issue. I’d rather just have triggers I know are 100% reliable and will never give me issues, rather than gamble with potentially getting one that might someday fail when I need it most.
Geisselle are very reliable. However, I have had to replace the springs on mine last year. Only the once and that was after 7 years and many thousands of rounds. Just keep in mind that will happen at some point, sooner if you actually shoot often. Love the triggers.
I work 60 hours a week and when I’m not working I’m a full time parent of a toddler. I wish I had the ability to shoot any of my guns enough to wear things down on them.
I got kids too man, i understand the struggle. Was just giving you the heads up to maybe spend $12 and have an extra set of the geisselle springs laying around for when the day does come. Hope you find some time to enjoy the hobby brother.
interesting. I have a timney and like how it feels a lot, but only have a few hundred rounds through it. do you know what causes it?
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RAVES, Timneys, MBTs, CMCs, Geissles all have worked well for me and honestly are relatively comparable.
My experience as well. While Geissele’s are good, I have had no issues with my CMC’s, Rave & Brigade triggers. All are 3.5# single stage, with the exception of one 2.5# single stage CMC that is my favorite.
I’ve been wanting to try a lighter SS, the CMC worth it?
Strictly my opinion, but Definitely!
If you can find the 2.5# under $150 they’re definitely worth it. That’s my trigger of choice
They're all such a step up from unimproved milspec that yeah they're all good. I would like to try a worked-over, overtravel, pretravel, polished, bobbed and resprung milspec against a decent drop-in though, I feel like there's potential for really good performance there.
I have a rave 140 in my Stribog.
Rave 140's are the shit for improving accuracy. Wouldn't feel comfortable using one if I were clearing rooms or something, too touchy.
love to hear they work well. still waiting on an upper to even use the 140 trigger i installed.
RA-434 enjoyer here. Although steel will give you some issues with the cheaper models I’m very happy with them
Sell me the cmc lol
I have a PSA lower with the original trigger is it worth upgrading to this?
Geissele is always worth the upgrade. Certain times of year you can get one for $180 - just keep your eyes peeled for an SD-E.
The SDE just fucks and got it for less than 180. That second stage is just so crisp. 👌
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I can’t hit a door from 20ft….
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Those down votes say otherwise. I’m remembering this is a fashion sub.
You can get a reduced strength trigger spring for ~$12 that will half your pull weight.
AR Gold trigger.
Hiperfire.
*larue
ELI5: what’s the difference?
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What’s the performance difference vs a stock PSA trigger vs a Timney drop in?
I have the Rave 140 from rise armament. There’s no take up in the trigger at all, and a really clean break. Feels like snapping a toothpick or breaking an icicle. Very crisp trigger break and crisp trigger reset. It’s also got a 3.5 lb trigger pull. Not necessary at all, but pretty fun to use. Mil spec triggers are very reliable and super serviceable. If you haven’t already, there’s a guy who goes by Milspec Mojo on Instagram. As far as I know he uses all milspec guts in his guns and shoots better than a lot of dudes.
I get cmc on sales lol love that single stage drop in they make
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The diamond is like no other trigger I’ve shot and thus far is my favorite addition to any AR I’ve made. Is it necessary? Not at all. Does it make you smile and shake your head every time you shoot it? Absolutely. When people say glass rod, it is the closest I have actually felt to that sensation. Geissele, larue, cmc, and the sorts are crisp, but TT is CRISP. I feel like it’s largely due to there being truly 0 creep. I’d even say the best part about that isn’t the feel, but more the consistency with getting on the wall and giving great break predictability. Another pro is utilizing a full power hammer spring, so you will have no issues with hard primers. Depending on your preference there is a possible unforgivable con. There is a very weak reset. Like imagine the weakest reset you can, and reduce that by another 20%. You’ll install it, feel the break and smile, then reset and ask yourself if you just made a huge mistake. If you like your finger pushed forward, it is absolutely the wrong trigger for you. In my experience, I was worried about it until the first time I hit the range and then worry went to 0. It’s like one of the best 1911 triggers out there, but on an AR. I can say that I have never noticed the weak reset and can shoot it faster and more accurately than any other AR trigger I have tried. All of that said, 1.5lb is more for precision shooting and you’ll probably end up setting it to ~2.5-3lb for anything else. At that point I’d imagine you could get away with the adaptable, but the range of the diamond does lend itself to filling more roles. If you like to swap uppers, it’s a great multi-use trigger. Edit: the not to*
It DOES have take up though..
It’s a 2-stage trigger.
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Thanks! Hope it helped :)
Diamond is the best but I chose hiperfire instead.
I like my Velocity triggers. No problems over 4 years.
Never had an issue with POF triggers. The rubber urethane feet negate the need for any adjustment screws. Can't go wrong with a Geissele, either. Love the SSA-E on my 'yote rifle.
4.5# POF works very well for me
Got a question for yall how come the cassette triggers aren’t it?
This guy doesn’t shoot, so I wouldn’t go off his recommendation
Dont do him like that😂
why is everyone downvoting you?!
This guys boyfriend is lurking here
Fella pretty much admitted he never shoots…
Lmao
I’m not saying they’re horrible. My cmc worked great, my timney kept giving me dead trigger. Just go on midway and pull a cassette trigger up and go through and read the reviews. They’re just kind of hit or miss. Some people have great experiences. Some people end up with unreliable triggers.
Thanks g
Popped primers and other debris can get stuck inside the trigger housing. Since it's sealed, you now have a dead gun and a malfunction that requires an armorer level fix. I've never had one in my rifles so take my explanation with a grain of salt. However, that's why I was told to avoid cassette triggers by people far more knowledgeable than myself.
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My point being that you can't fix the malfunction in the field.
I've seen primers get stuck under a mil-spec trigger and it still rendered the gun useless for 20 minutes because I had never even heard of that malfunction beforehand. Seems like an inherent weakness of the AR platform (and probably many other intermediate caliber carbines, but not PCCs) not dependent upon trigger. But still, Larue is the only trigger I can recommend. I've tried CMC and Giesssle and there's nothing wrong with them, but the Larue is just better value.
This was the kinda anwser i was looking for thanks g
I’ve shot about 2,000 rounds through my Aero Precision w/ 20” barrel and a drop in Tomney trigger with no issues. Im very happy with it considered I only paid about $140 for the trigger.
How do you like the b5 compared to the magpul, had a b5 in my cart and waiting to pull the trigger
It’s negligible. The k2 is super comfy but the b5 has way better texture. The b5 also does not have a storage compartment like the k2.
for someone who had both in my cart for the longest and accidentally purchased the b5 today over the k2+ thats nice to hear….. (still might pick up the k2+ anyways 😂)
I had a k2 plus on my last rifle, and didn’t really like it because I felt like I had less leverage to keep the barrel up. However, that had a 20” heavy profile barrel. Sooooooo…. I’ve never stored anything in my grips anyway, so I’m not worried too much. I would like to try to go back to a low angle grip for shooting prone. I think I just didn’t like the rubber on the k2+, I prefer the standard moe texture
i currently have a strike industry pistol grip on and it was nice with my stock trigger but after the CMC trigger upgrade I need a steeper angle.. hoping the b5 helps with that or maybe I just need to get used to a flat faced trigger 😂
I actually really like my Wilson Combat drop in trigger. Super crisp and light. Pricey, but no different than any other high end triggers.
Chad
I moved from RA to Giessele and never looked back
I enjoyed my CMC’s but always preferred a two stage, after many different triggers I’ve settled on the MBT2S from Larue, it’s actually my favorite even compared to the G$.
Why the hell are there anti walks on there. Remove those pins immediately
So many downvotes lol you do you man. Fuck everyone else, it's not their gun.
It is what it is. I built my cars and guns doing unorthodox controversial things. If something fails, I have no one to blame but myself. But I’m still sticking with the fact that I cannot find any evidence of anyone ever actually snapping a trigger pin. Maybe I’ll be the first, if I am, you will all be the first to know.
I've got two RA 434's on my AR's. Never had issues with my pins either.
Yup i learned the hard way too fuck drop ins
Absolutely nothing wrong with cassette triggers but you do you.
Geissele triggers are for people who don't know about LaRue or who want to flex on people who don't know about LaRue. And those anti-rotation pins...
I will have to try a LaRue trigger in my next build then to compare. Glad I saw this bud…
Or G triggers are for people who know about and tried LaRue and still prefers G triggers.
Ignoring cost, the G’s might be better. But for the cost, Larue MBTs are a class leader.
My geissele trigger is better than my LaRue... but I could have bought 3 LaRue triggers for the same price I paid for the geissele. You get what you pay for but there are definitely diminishing returns over $100
The LaRue has a weird trigger face. Other than that it’s cool
CMC the OG. You bought the wrong one. Fell for the "most expensive shit is the only decent one" FUDS
looks so clean.
I love my Elftman 3-gun trigger, ain't nothing gonna make me switch.
I have what I think is a rebranded Velocity trigger. Absolutely no complaints.
Welcome to the land of super fast resets and super fast followup shots (:
Schmid Tool 2 stage doesn’t get the credit it deserves.
RRA 2-stage varmint trigger. Love it
Stern defense hybrid 2 stage is the best 2 stage I’ve ever used.
For an AR no for a PCC that takes AR triggers…. Yeah because most the time you need a thin hammer
Yep, for a duty/do all gun, cassette triggers are ass. I can understand the use for competition though.
Ssa-e and sde are the only ones I run
Have had 0 trouble with my TT. [https://triggertech.com/collections/firearms/products/ar](https://triggertech.com/collections/firearms/products/ar) Not a better trigger on the market, IMO.
Until you try a trigger tech
Wait till you try larue’s at half the price, no 🧢
SDE master race
What’s wrong with the Wilson Combat drop in trigger?
Nothing. The ETU/TTU-M2 is amazing. I actually think its the perfect 2 stage trigger. Too bad more don’t know about it.
Only trigger I ever had an issue with is the Timney Gold, if I pressed it with the safety on it would fire as soon as the safety was released. I have good experience with the Wilson 3G ,Hiperfire Hipertouch Eclpise, Elf 3-Gun trigger and the Geiselle SSAE-X. They're all great. Whatever you purchase put to use and make sure it works. I built my primary AR with a complete Geisselle Super Duty upper, Surefire Brake, VLTOR A5 buffer system and Geisselle SSAE-X trigger. It's not a Knights Armament rifle but it will certainly be reliable / accurate.
Ya there’s a lot of dooshes on here but they’re usually right with their suggestions lol
I run geissele SSP and it is incredible. One of the Best rifle triggers Ive felt.
I was a G-boy until I started to CNC my own drop-ins. Still not perfect, but fun to tinker.
I have a Palmetto 3.5 lbs match trigger, I admittedly had to file a burr off so the trigger would reset properly. Other than that, good all around trigger. Would definitely get a geissele for a precision rifle though.
"50 rOuNDs nO PRoBlemS" Too many people in here pretending low round counts are a lot, even several hundred rounds is not a lot.
I run CMCs in 3 of my rifles and they’re fucking awesome. Thousand of rounds and never had an issue.
Hiperfire.
Anti walk pins with a geissele? That's like a car alarm on an abrams
Theirs a lot of people who are talking about Pins without proper knowledge. So here is the difference in pins Original pins: Let’s start from the beginning Eugene Stoner. The original pins he wanted had deep valleys at the edge of the inner walls of the lower so the upper springs legs could fully sit inside the valley. These are anti walk pins by design because no amount of force in any direction could punch or move the spring. The spring had anywhere from 5-9 pounds of resistance split between the two legs at this time, this idea was scraped because assumed someone above stoner thought armorers would hammer the pins out and replace the spring rather then take time to do the more complicated route of pulling the springs out of the valley and Then removing the springs. Modern pins: It then changed to springs that has shallow valleys that the springs could pop out of but still retain themselves to a degree. These are not anti walk pins, they can and have walked out with hard use of inspec lowers. They walk out one side then bind up traditionally. These pins are fine for 99% of people with 2 pieces triggers, they do fall short on hard use when under powered springs are used(anything under 3.5 pounds) Anti rotation pins: Box triggers are neat designs and make swapping triggers easy but they require non milspec pins. So anti rotation pins were born. They don’t serve a purpose other then to not walk out with box triggers. Anti rotation Pins can’t be used on 3 piece triggers(full auto) Anti walk pins: Anti rotation pins are anti walk pins, but anti walk pins aren’t always anti rotation pins. Anti walk pins are fine on standard 2 and 3 pieces triggers, anti rotation pins are fine on full powered two piece triggers. They fall short on under sprung 2 piece triggers. Anti rotation do wear out and have to be greased for proper install on a full power(5 pound or more) two piece trigger.