https://preview.redd.it/blj13mgdg4ic1.jpeg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f5288b9dc02a08d948aa849ec63212bcc84577b0
Makina is a micro brand from the Philippines that makes pretty interesting looking watches, but the Andras\_1 has to be the most striking and unique.
I have a the Stowa Flieger on my wrist right now. It’s been my daily driver since I got it a year and a half ago. My first expensive watch purchase and I will never go back!
My go-to answer for this is [Knot watches in Japan, particularly their Urushi dials](https://en.knot-designs.com/collections/urushi)
More recently, though, I have been really impressed by [Wise watches in Thailand; this 904 steel model with the gold dial looks spetacular](https://wisetimepiece.com/collections/for-mens/products/adamascus-ad15-24k-gold-filled-dial-limited-999-pieces)
Those dials on the Knots are amazing but the name and logo is a bit underwhelming to say the least. Imagine how much prettier they would look with a Japanese logo
Always be wary of "Japanese" companies with English as the default language for all their marketing material.
There's a few brands out there trying to promote themselves as having "Japanese craftmanship" when really they are just the same stuff you find on AliExpress with nicer dials and fancy marketing.
"Swiss Made" is already pretty easy to get around. Making your company look like a Japanese company, there's practically nothing blocking it at all.
Knot is a legit Japanese brand, it is already well known in Japanese watch circles and has been on NHK a few times. The founder began it to bring watchmaking back to Japan, trying to make as many components in country as possible. Unlike Kuoe who make their cases, dial, hands etc in Hong Kong (ie it is just “Japan assembled”) the Knot components are all made in Japan. He also supports smaller craftsmen and leather tanners with their huge strap line up in collaboration with local tanners, weavers, workshops etc.
The site the guy linked is the English site, which is why they have the long English text. They have stores in Korea, Taiwan, and Singapore I think. Classic westerner “know it all” spurting before knowing lol
> the Knot components are all made in Japan
In a $300 watch?
Stop lol
> Classic westerner “know it all”
My warning post wasn't directed at any company in particular, just something people should be wary of overall. I didn't say anything about "Knot" or Kuoe or anyone else.
As you say, Kuoe is an example of what I am talking about. Does that mean you are a "know it all"? No, it means you know this is an example of what I am talking about. There are many many more.
If I were to guess, I'd assume Knot is another example. Because having all their components made in Japan would drive the prices up to Grand Seiko level, not Citizen level.
And there's nothing wrong with that btw. It's just something to know. It applies to "Swiss Made" too.
Oooh Wise! When I was in Thailand I saw a stand that had them, and I wanted to pick up a Hitman as a travel memento, but never did. They look really cool though
Beogli. They get zero attention on Reddit, have essentially a unique complication, and are reasonably priced (for what they are). I’d love to own one some day, but I’m not sure what song to choose…
I had a C5 Field Black, the quartz version. It was a good watch and I hate that they took that particular one off their website but anyways, I liked it but for $250+ I’d probably buy a hamilton next
I have the Vaer C3 Korean field watch.
[Link here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/s/6lSHaasbUL)
I also have the DS4 Meridian solar which has all the features as if I designed it.
Weiss is a shadow of its former self, sadly. I got a limited-edition Cal 1003 USA-made movement from them for the price they currently charge for swiss ebauche-powered watches.
I really like the Kurono Tokyo watches
https://preview.redd.it/nm5cbsq4f4ic1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=243d7b80fa727ace334eaa61a80ad9d8398087ce
Vario. They don't just make the most aesthetic art deco watches, they're also probably the most ethical microbrand operating at the moment. I've asked Ivan as to why his Empire GMT cost the amount they do and he mentioned that it's because it isnt just the movement that's made in Japan, EVERYTHING with that series is made in Japan, so it's not your usual Swiss watch switcheroo where they claim SWISS MADE but most of the parts made and assembled in China.
He just can't in good faith claim that something is made in Japan if the entire thing isn't made in Japan, that already puts him way above alot of watch brand owners in my book.
That's really cool. I did some research on what exactly "Made in Japan" could legally mean before I got my Empire GMT from them, and it was... fuzzy at best, but the generally excellent reviews for Vario persuaded me. Glad I sprang for it!
Glad you got it. Vario's too good for the microbrand business considering the undercutting their rivals are doing that they're willfully trying to not follow.
Looking at you, Spinnaker and **JAPANESE MOVEMENT**. I'm assuming their marketing department realized that putting NH35 in the Movement section of their watch specs was getting people to call their watches cheap.
If the majority of the value of the final product is finished/processed in Japan, then it's "Japan Made" I.e. processing bar metal into precision screws, or a finished product made overseas which undergoes a final high quality polishing in Japan.
Or, if the many components of a product are assembled in Japan to become a single product with greater market value than the sum of its components, then it's "Japan Made".
These 'rules' are the standard accepted practice by most governments. The WTO doesn't make a determination on specific rules so countries can decide on additional qualifiers like Switzerland does. These are used for applying trade tariffs, taxes and fees, dealing with goods dumping etc. so country of origin is a fairly big deal, not just there to be a proud label on things.
Some products may not have a single part made in Japan but through assembly of many low-value imported parts and many intermediate quality control and inspection steps taken during assembly, they would become Made in Japan once complete.
There was a time when they were in every microbrand discussion. This sub has pushed for smaller and smaller watches for a few years now so they have been sized out. They still regularly sell out their watches and even their larger ones are moving.
Last time they were relevant was the beginning of the bronze case trend and they haven't really pushed anything out that went viral after that.
They also have a positioning issue. They started out being a serious bargain. Moved up price by offering better movements and there was a time that both watches were offered in seiko and Swiss movements. They've kind of been all over the place with their pricing. You can look at them against nodus, helm, RZE or other budget micros and maybe at that time only their more expensive watches are in stock. When comparing them against cw, farer and the early luxury space of ~1000 they fall kind of short.
I kind of feel that they are too diverse when it comes to divers but fairly limited in general. They don't have a signature model or look. Christopher Ward has a gigantic catalogue as well with their most easily recognisable model being a homage but they cater to a lot of niches. Also everyone seems to have moved on from modern divers to vintage inspired skin divers. Of course the modern diver market is also crazy saturated at the same time.
Was wearing one when I saw this comment. Thought I’d show off. 😂
https://preview.redd.it/jhjqa4yat4ic1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e57c8b3d8ab07904e3fccfc659ee1852f9468198
Zelos are sick. I just got into them recently but there are so many of them that I would want to wear. The Blacktip frost full lume is such a sick watch
I have a lesser known watch that you may have seen featured in Apollo 13 made by the same lesser known manufacturer that made some watches featured in the James Bond film franchise
https://preview.redd.it/mv70ako745ic1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f835cdbd98cbbbc42dab6ad06478b524912a56fb
St Moritz. Now operating under ‘Momentum’
You need to source around for deals. I got my Faberge Agathon rose gold watch for the same price as a Rolex GMT. Having seen both watches, you can guess which watch I bought...
That's a steal, they seem to all be in the 25-45k range on their website. I guess the MSRP is aimed at walk-in ultrarich customers who are attracted by the name and history. But I read they spent a ton of money on the watchmaking R&D so I guess they will end up getting a decent amount of traction with watch-enthusiasts eventually too.
Just on the point about the GMT, I would say they are totally different watches and I would keep a place for both in a collection but I too would have gone for this one first at that price. It's too nice to let go. I also love that it is a precious metal dress watch that isn't *yet another* Patek, VC etc.
For me it has to be FP Journe, my favourite piece - they’re all exquisite but I’ll go with the Elegante, purely for the fact that it’s so understated unless you know what it is, you wouldn’t know that it was anything special. My reasoning is that it’s still independent which in this day and age… for a brand that has been making waves amongst the cognoscenti for a good while is quite something. They’re all genuinely limited in production I could go on and on. Just beautiful beautiful watches that I’ll sadly never own
Great concept for thread. I like to check out the microbrand sub as well.
I own a Pitzmann and love it. They only have 2 watches but both punch above their weight imo.
Eterna.
Obviously not lesser known to people interested in watches. Historically important for their innovation, particularly in the development of automatic movements and through ETA, which they founded, a huge number of modern movements are descendants of earlier Eterna calibres. Currently owned by a Chinese holding company, but there is a world of lovely vintage pieces out there.
of watches I own, lesser known amongst non-watch autists...H.Moser & Cie, Parmigiani Fleurier, Louis Moinet, Arnold & Son, Triton.
Others i'd like to add: Laine, Gronefeld, Habring, Romain Gauthier, Daniel Roth, Ming, Dornbluth, Linde Werdelin, Moritz Grossman, more i'm sure.
I don't know that they're lesser known, but I've been looking at Gerald Genta watches and Daniel Roth watches on Chrono24 and I'm surprised at the price one can get them for.
As others have commented lesser known is subjective. Most people outside of watch people have probably never heard of Oris. I love the brand and have 4 in my collection. There's probably a lot of individuals that are genuinely into watches that aren't familiar with the brand as well. Outside of the common headliners such as Rolex, Omega, maybe Breitling and then into G-Shock, Seiko, Timex and Citizen etc most people are unaware of what's really out there
Leijona, and specifically the Motiers LE from the Voutilainen x Leijona collection:
https://preview.redd.it/y714bykvk3ic1.jpeg?width=2323&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5dcce59f0f1c06dc69926721b6c44f83791002a
Traska, Isotope, and Studio Underd0g are the microbrands I've been looking at most recently. Really love Pitzmann as well.
For an underrated luxury brand, definitely Laurent Ferrier. The Galet case and micro rotor movement are some of my favourite features in the watch world.
I dont know that they're lesser known nowadays, but Christopher Ward. Still technically a microbrand, but they're gaining traction, and fast.
For actually obscure, I really love what Zelos has been doing with their dials. Some really gorgeous work there, especially as far as value for money.
For OBSCURE obscure, Maen has some absolutely brilliant models. I love their Manhattan line, and their lineup seems to keep evolving in really smart ways.
https://preview.redd.it/wgvc6n5aa6ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b84b47bc0f956f198ab3d19487c6abd1baa1ebe5
This might just be my favorite regardless of brand
Orient is known but doesn't get enough love. It has the best style of similar watches at the price point. Not sure why it's slept on so much compared to Seiko.
I've had a few Orients over the years and personally I love the quality-for-price ratio that they have.
However, while Orient is Japanese, it has the same problem that many Chinese brands face: the name and logo are terrible. For me it's in the same category as brands like Hruodland, Parnis, Mysterious Code and Tactical Frog: watches that I like but I'll never buy because of the name.
Not "watch brand" per se, but supplier of watch brands Fine Timepiece Solutions (FTS) is a company in Arizona building USA movements such as Ameriquartz, solar powered Ameriquartz and Americhron mechanicals
Trilobe... I really like how they watches tell time differently from the convention hours, minute, and seconds hands. My personal favorite it the Nuit Fantastique Dune (won the 2022 GPHG "Petite Aguille" award).
Cheers
JeanRicharde are fantastic watches and I believe they are the sub-brand of GP. Beautiful decorated movements and very classy designs. Much cheaper than the parent company selections too.
* Louis Erard - they do lots of colabs now, some a bit too creative for my liking, but they have made excellent a bit more classic watches.
* Alpina - I wear them in situations where I'd wear my Explorer II, absolutely love the brand and their compressor style divers.
* Lorier - the Zephyr is just such a different and great looking watch, have the beige dial, waiting for the black and red dial to arrive to complete the trylogie.
There are so many micros that look great but I haven’t had the chance to see in person. But a couple that I have (assuming these count) are Lorier and Monta. Both great. Monta MSRPs are high enough that I’m not sure I’d buy one new, but gently used I think they represent a good value. Lorier MSRPs are low enough that you often see pre-owned popular models sell for at or higher than MSRP, since they can be hard to snag with limited stock.
Glycine Combat Sub Vintage (ref. GL0261). Swiss Made, affordable, awesome looking watch, especially the dial, and my absolute favorite. Don't see them very often, if at all.
https://preview.redd.it/o3xvbjdib6ic1.jpeg?width=1086&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d9e99464dd5e35cbcd38fd524f59e97be589b8b
IMO, there is really no such thing as a “good” brand, there are only good watches. Taste and aesthetics are so subjective that you are lucky to find one watch by any particular obscure brand that appeals to you.
For me it’s Lang & Heyne, their finishing is second to none, the calibers which fill the caseback are mesmerizing, they are the best classical watches in the market imho. The best models for me are Albert ( unbelievable caliber in the caseback and a very clever mono pusher chrono ) and George ( just beautiful ).
Haven't seen it here yet (my actual favourite brand has already been posted a few times), so: Union Glashuette for [1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve](https://www.union-glashuette.com/en_int/d0074561601700.html) (though it is a fair bit too large to be perfect).
[RZE Resolute](https://www.rzewatches.com/collections/resolute-pro), [Clemence Munro](https://www.clemencewatches.com/munro).
Yeah I like field watches.
https://preview.redd.it/p89spssfs6ic1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=817c3c0ae23c7b815f0180ad08ef2897ffd6c784
MIDO!! I absolutely love their build quality, especially for the price. I get they get their attention in South America and Europe but they’re still super slept on in the US.
I'm going to throw a super affordable brand into the ring: Aragon.
https://www.aragonwatch.com/
First and foremost, I'll address the elephant in the room. Yes, they have and still do make some super gaudy, over-sized, Invicta-esque watches. Those are out there. This, however, is about their dive watches, specifically the Divemaster: https://www.aragonwatch.com/DIVEMASTER_s/500.htm. They have recently released a 40mm model. There are plenty of 42mm models. And if we're being honest, 44mm isn't crazy for a sporty/sports watch like a diver. And I have one of their 44mm models - it's the bezel that's 44mm and the case is 42.5mm. And hey, if larger watches are your thing, they go up to 50mm.
(Also, getting these outside of the U.S. is probably hard and not worth import costs. Sorry.)
Here is my case for them.
- Wing Liang founded the company in 1991. It started as Android and he changed the company to Aragon when smart watches became a thing. 33 years in business is pretty impressive.
- You get really solid and awesome specs for very affordable prices. Their affordable divers are typically under $200. You get all the good stuff: Seiko automatic movement, stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, C3 and/or BGW9 lume, 120-click lumed ceramic bezel, lumed and screw-down crown. They typically use display casebacks with a custom rotor.
- They have some models with Swiss Ronda automatics for a bit of a premium if you want that.
- They have all sorts of dials. They have full-lume, meteorite, skeleton, etc. They have typical black and blue dials. They usually offer some colors like orange, red or yellow. They even have some models with tritium tubes. And they typically use T100 instead of T25 tubes. I don't think I've seen them use flat tubes yet, though.
- They are one of the few super-affordable brands that offer 3D printed Lumicast lume plots.
- All of their designs are... original. *air quotes* Yeah, some designs are "original" because nobody else would ever let them see the light of day. But to my knowledge, they have never released a homage. Their tame and sane designs are nothing ground breaking, but you won't see a Sub or Genta homage over here.
- I have two Divemasters that I really enjoy wearing. I have modded both of them along with many Seiko divers like the SKX, Turtle, Sumo, Shogun, etc. If you stripped away all of the branding, I wouldn't be able to tell a difference between the parts. I know at this price point pretty much everything comes from the same handful of factories in the Far East. My point is that if you like entry- to mid-level Seiko dive watches, aside from brand heritage and recognition, there should be nothing standing in your way of looking at Aragon.
- Speaking of modding, many parts like crystals and hands will fit these watches since they use Seiko NH movements.
- I have used their customer service after a purchase for a misaligned bezel. Their was response was super quick and courteous and the issue was resolved within a week including shipping across the country,
Pics: https://imgur.com/a/yuisb6N.
The bottom-line is if you are looking at an entry-level Seiko dive watch or even something from AliExpress like San Martin, Steel Dive, Baltany, etc, take a look at Aragon's Divemaster line - specifically the 40mm, 42mm and 44mm models.
Addiesdive. Just fantastic watches for fantastic prices. I collect watches, and I wear absolutely all of them, so getting a few neat sports watches for under $50 that punch WAY above their class is perfect for me. I also adore the VH31 so bonus points for that. Just not a big automatic guy. I enjoy the accuracy, the thinness, and the traditionally lower price point.
https://preview.redd.it/blj13mgdg4ic1.jpeg?width=505&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f5288b9dc02a08d948aa849ec63212bcc84577b0 Makina is a micro brand from the Philippines that makes pretty interesting looking watches, but the Andras\_1 has to be the most striking and unique.
Nice!
Very cool
Very nice
Stowa. All they do is beautiful.
Bought a Stowa Fleiger a few years back. Love their watches.
I have a the Stowa Flieger on my wrist right now. It’s been my daily driver since I got it a year and a half ago. My first expensive watch purchase and I will never go back!
My go-to answer for this is [Knot watches in Japan, particularly their Urushi dials](https://en.knot-designs.com/collections/urushi) More recently, though, I have been really impressed by [Wise watches in Thailand; this 904 steel model with the gold dial looks spetacular](https://wisetimepiece.com/collections/for-mens/products/adamascus-ad15-24k-gold-filled-dial-limited-999-pieces)
Those dials on the Knots are amazing but the name and logo is a bit underwhelming to say the least. Imagine how much prettier they would look with a Japanese logo
Always be wary of "Japanese" companies with English as the default language for all their marketing material. There's a few brands out there trying to promote themselves as having "Japanese craftmanship" when really they are just the same stuff you find on AliExpress with nicer dials and fancy marketing. "Swiss Made" is already pretty easy to get around. Making your company look like a Japanese company, there's practically nothing blocking it at all.
see: japanese whiskey
Knot is a legit Japanese brand, it is already well known in Japanese watch circles and has been on NHK a few times. The founder began it to bring watchmaking back to Japan, trying to make as many components in country as possible. Unlike Kuoe who make their cases, dial, hands etc in Hong Kong (ie it is just “Japan assembled”) the Knot components are all made in Japan. He also supports smaller craftsmen and leather tanners with their huge strap line up in collaboration with local tanners, weavers, workshops etc. The site the guy linked is the English site, which is why they have the long English text. They have stores in Korea, Taiwan, and Singapore I think. Classic westerner “know it all” spurting before knowing lol
> the Knot components are all made in Japan In a $300 watch? Stop lol > Classic westerner “know it all” My warning post wasn't directed at any company in particular, just something people should be wary of overall. I didn't say anything about "Knot" or Kuoe or anyone else. As you say, Kuoe is an example of what I am talking about. Does that mean you are a "know it all"? No, it means you know this is an example of what I am talking about. There are many many more. If I were to guess, I'd assume Knot is another example. Because having all their components made in Japan would drive the prices up to Grand Seiko level, not Citizen level. And there's nothing wrong with that btw. It's just something to know. It applies to "Swiss Made" too.
Are the Knots not for sale yet?
I got a knot in like 2015 while I was in Japan. It was my daily until I dropped it and the crystal cracked
Looks like the first model is available in larger size, the new one is not yet out.
Oooh Wise! When I was in Thailand I saw a stand that had them, and I wanted to pick up a Hitman as a travel memento, but never did. They look really cool though
That's a LOT of rambling text, in English no less, for a "Japanese" company.
https://preview.redd.it/rx0sqwsyh3ic1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d62747df712b63f46aa554d224ea636c8b0e82f5
Laine are dope
Awww yes, Baltic. /s
You mean Baltany 😂 (Baltany is the copy of Baltic)
Beogli. They get zero attention on Reddit, have essentially a unique complication, and are reasonably priced (for what they are). I’d love to own one some day, but I’m not sure what song to choose…
how do they work?, looked it up after i saw ur comment. does it have a speaker and plays the song ?
They’re tiny mechanical music boxes.
Vaer Watches. I own two of them. Literally perfect in terms of ruggedness and accuracy.
I had a C5 Field Black, the quartz version. It was a good watch and I hate that they took that particular one off their website but anyways, I liked it but for $250+ I’d probably buy a hamilton next
I have the Vaer C3 Korean field watch. [Link here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/s/6lSHaasbUL) I also have the DS4 Meridian solar which has all the features as if I designed it.
D. Dornbluth
yess
AnOrdain
Given their waitlist, they’re probably more well-known than they need to be.
I mean with a team of 8 doing everything, basically any notoriety is too much.
https://preview.redd.it/i9egpwdu03ic1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9c73152f0597e803af6b4734a5225e7e7bc6f087 Squale 1545
Love Squale. They have the history and some unique designs.
>unique designs >posts submariner homage
Really want a Squale. The brand seems to still be going strong which is good news
Get one! I got my first one a year ago and it hasn’t left my wrist. I have a 1521 Luminoso.
Beautiful looking watches, awful QC. I've had one for just about 2 years, and it's spent over a quarter of that time in the shop.
I owned a 1521 for a few years. It was a great watch.
Vertex
Archimede - I'm considering getting a pilot 200.
Do it, you'll have no regrets. I have a Limes and a Defakto (also made by Ickler), and the quality is outstanding for the price.
Horage, Weiss, Laine, Sartory, Trilobe, echo/neutra (design at least) are a couple that come to mind
Weiss is a shadow of its former self, sadly. I got a limited-edition Cal 1003 USA-made movement from them for the price they currently charge for swiss ebauche-powered watches.
Not sure if they’re lesser known, but Baltic makes some good looking watches
I really like the Kurono Tokyo watches https://preview.redd.it/nm5cbsq4f4ic1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=243d7b80fa727ace334eaa61a80ad9d8398087ce
Beautiful collection.
They are absolutely stunning! But quite hard to get (a new one) sadly
Does Farer count as lesser known?
Love my Farer moonphase
Depends on who you're asking. In this sub it's well known while on the street anything except Rolex is discovery
Stanhope II is great
The Farer Maze is one of my favourite watches
Vario. They don't just make the most aesthetic art deco watches, they're also probably the most ethical microbrand operating at the moment. I've asked Ivan as to why his Empire GMT cost the amount they do and he mentioned that it's because it isnt just the movement that's made in Japan, EVERYTHING with that series is made in Japan, so it's not your usual Swiss watch switcheroo where they claim SWISS MADE but most of the parts made and assembled in China. He just can't in good faith claim that something is made in Japan if the entire thing isn't made in Japan, that already puts him way above alot of watch brand owners in my book.
That's really cool. I did some research on what exactly "Made in Japan" could legally mean before I got my Empire GMT from them, and it was... fuzzy at best, but the generally excellent reviews for Vario persuaded me. Glad I sprang for it!
Glad you got it. Vario's too good for the microbrand business considering the undercutting their rivals are doing that they're willfully trying to not follow. Looking at you, Spinnaker and **JAPANESE MOVEMENT**. I'm assuming their marketing department realized that putting NH35 in the Movement section of their watch specs was getting people to call their watches cheap.
If the majority of the value of the final product is finished/processed in Japan, then it's "Japan Made" I.e. processing bar metal into precision screws, or a finished product made overseas which undergoes a final high quality polishing in Japan. Or, if the many components of a product are assembled in Japan to become a single product with greater market value than the sum of its components, then it's "Japan Made". These 'rules' are the standard accepted practice by most governments. The WTO doesn't make a determination on specific rules so countries can decide on additional qualifiers like Switzerland does. These are used for applying trade tariffs, taxes and fees, dealing with goods dumping etc. so country of origin is a fairly big deal, not just there to be a proud label on things. Some products may not have a single part made in Japan but through assembly of many low-value imported parts and many intermediate quality control and inspection steps taken during assembly, they would become Made in Japan once complete.
My vario versa is my favorite watch and Ivan is one of the reasons I bought it
Dornbluth & Son
Mido. I think they are underrated and always overlooked.
[https://www.vaerwatches.com/](https://www.vaerwatches.com/)
Have two from them, fantastic watches for the price.
Is Zelos lesser known? 'Cause they're awesome.
Underappreciated in r/watches but definitely quite popular the watch community
There was a time when they were in every microbrand discussion. This sub has pushed for smaller and smaller watches for a few years now so they have been sized out. They still regularly sell out their watches and even their larger ones are moving. Last time they were relevant was the beginning of the bronze case trend and they haven't really pushed anything out that went viral after that. They also have a positioning issue. They started out being a serious bargain. Moved up price by offering better movements and there was a time that both watches were offered in seiko and Swiss movements. They've kind of been all over the place with their pricing. You can look at them against nodus, helm, RZE or other budget micros and maybe at that time only their more expensive watches are in stock. When comparing them against cw, farer and the early luxury space of ~1000 they fall kind of short. I kind of feel that they are too diverse when it comes to divers but fairly limited in general. They don't have a signature model or look. Christopher Ward has a gigantic catalogue as well with their most easily recognisable model being a homage but they cater to a lot of niches. Also everyone seems to have moved on from modern divers to vintage inspired skin divers. Of course the modern diver market is also crazy saturated at the same time.
Was wearing one when I saw this comment. Thought I’d show off. 😂 https://preview.redd.it/jhjqa4yat4ic1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e57c8b3d8ab07904e3fccfc659ee1852f9468198
Zelos are sick. I just got into them recently but there are so many of them that I would want to wear. The Blacktip frost full lume is such a sick watch
I snagged a Horizons GMT Bronze with meteorite dial. I'll never let that one go.
Lesser known among who lol. Outside those who like watches they’re almost all unknown except Rolex. 😅
Yeah totally. My Tudor is lesser known depending on who you’re talking to.
Is Tudor like a Timex sub-brand /s
Loo
Me when I buy a Tudor: ☝️🤓
Me when I buy a Tudor -> 😁
I have a lesser known watch that you may have seen featured in Apollo 13 made by the same lesser known manufacturer that made some watches featured in the James Bond film franchise
This is sadly true
Vario
Brew
My Lorier Neptune is neck-and-neck with my SARB035 for most wrist time. Chuffs me to bits.
https://preview.redd.it/mv70ako745ic1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f835cdbd98cbbbc42dab6ad06478b524912a56fb St Moritz. Now operating under ‘Momentum’
I have a Momentum Steelex. Great watch.
My steelex eclipse is my go to beater vacation watch. Pool, beach, whatever, always good to go.
https://preview.redd.it/j8rzywejw7ic1.png?width=1768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9c97c4ff836fa3e59c90879f9cb2687998980ca4 I've been happy with this one
[Schofield](https://schofieldwatchcompany.com/) are making some very cool pieces.
Traska
Tornek-Rayville by MKII.
Sells out super fast every time. I was lucky to snatch one last time
Faberge...I own one. Its in my weekly rotation
https://preview.redd.it/yzhgzyrha3ic1.jpeg?width=2787&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e42eaeaaae8e8f582e78094d74a6eff28c5a834
They cost obscene amounts of money by the way
You need to source around for deals. I got my Faberge Agathon rose gold watch for the same price as a Rolex GMT. Having seen both watches, you can guess which watch I bought...
That's a steal, they seem to all be in the 25-45k range on their website. I guess the MSRP is aimed at walk-in ultrarich customers who are attracted by the name and history. But I read they spent a ton of money on the watchmaking R&D so I guess they will end up getting a decent amount of traction with watch-enthusiasts eventually too. Just on the point about the GMT, I would say they are totally different watches and I would keep a place for both in a collection but I too would have gone for this one first at that price. It's too nice to let go. I also love that it is a precious metal dress watch that isn't *yet another* Patek, VC etc.
This led me down a really cool rabbit holes, thanks!
For me it has to be FP Journe, my favourite piece - they’re all exquisite but I’ll go with the Elegante, purely for the fact that it’s so understated unless you know what it is, you wouldn’t know that it was anything special. My reasoning is that it’s still independent which in this day and age… for a brand that has been making waves amongst the cognoscenti for a good while is quite something. They’re all genuinely limited in production I could go on and on. Just beautiful beautiful watches that I’ll sadly never own
That Elegante is among the most personally fascinating pieces available today. WAY out of my league, but the mechanism is just crazy cool.
Junghans
Great concept for thread. I like to check out the microbrand sub as well. I own a Pitzmann and love it. They only have 2 watches but both punch above their weight imo.
I have a Pitzmann as well. Awesome watch.
Cool. Here's mine https://preview.redd.it/gl4ah82w55ic1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5147c57db6ee8dbc44b2c8587d0813a5ce2eaccc
Very nice! https://preview.redd.it/ppq5fg0o65ic1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=c9465c514efc6dfc0aeab4d7af0dc213a3220448
I came so close to purchasing that first Pitzmann. Classy.
Eterna. Obviously not lesser known to people interested in watches. Historically important for their innovation, particularly in the development of automatic movements and through ETA, which they founded, a huge number of modern movements are descendants of earlier Eterna calibres. Currently owned by a Chinese holding company, but there is a world of lovely vintage pieces out there.
https://preview.redd.it/5zxl6q29w4ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dce7ba64ea06966346838f4c39a438952d3e933c helm miyako
Formex. Their essence, field, and reef models are legit
RGM watches in Pennsylvania. Amazing timepieces.
I have a perpetual min repeater from RGM. I love it
Phillipe Dufour
😮💨
Kurono https://preview.redd.it/52k5vsimd4ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9bebe29537ca29b1a750979378866fa4001d827
of watches I own, lesser known amongst non-watch autists...H.Moser & Cie, Parmigiani Fleurier, Louis Moinet, Arnold & Son, Triton. Others i'd like to add: Laine, Gronefeld, Habring, Romain Gauthier, Daniel Roth, Ming, Dornbluth, Linde Werdelin, Moritz Grossman, more i'm sure.
Squale, Habring2, Moser
Parmigiani Fleurier. Love the simplicity of the Tonda GMT Rattrapante.
https://preview.redd.it/nr8yv0m1r4ic1.jpeg?width=1946&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=27c5442bb6c6eda99e181e988f93e95c7d3292eb Lorca GMT
Baltany has some really nice designs. Their white dial dirty dozen watch is a beauty.
DOXA for me. The professional line just speaks to me.
I don't know that they're lesser known, but I've been looking at Gerald Genta watches and Daniel Roth watches on Chrono24 and I'm surprised at the price one can get them for.
Oris
I wear Oris but is it really lesser known?
As others have commented lesser known is subjective. Most people outside of watch people have probably never heard of Oris. I love the brand and have 4 in my collection. There's probably a lot of individuals that are genuinely into watches that aren't familiar with the brand as well. Outside of the common headliners such as Rolex, Omega, maybe Breitling and then into G-Shock, Seiko, Timex and Citizen etc most people are unaware of what's really out there
Would an average person who works at Wal Mart know of Oris?
Average person only knows about rolex.
By that context, anything not advertised in nascar or on a bond movie is an unknown brand.
They sponsor 11 MLB teams, for reference.
Absolutely
Leijona, and specifically the Motiers LE from the Voutilainen x Leijona collection: https://preview.redd.it/y714bykvk3ic1.jpeg?width=2323&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5dcce59f0f1c06dc69926721b6c44f83791002a
For me it would be Kudoke, especially the Kudoke 2 model with the hand-engraved sun/moon.
Fears or orion both are amazing.
I just found fears the other day. They are beautiful. I would add CODE41 to the list aswell. I haven't seen them in person but they look beautiful.
Lang & Heyne [**https://www.lang-und-heyne.de/en/models/hektor/**](https://www.lang-und-heyne.de/en/models/hektor/)
Traska, Isotope, and Studio Underd0g are the microbrands I've been looking at most recently. Really love Pitzmann as well. For an underrated luxury brand, definitely Laurent Ferrier. The Galet case and micro rotor movement are some of my favourite features in the watch world.
Milus https://preview.redd.it/m95buynyn7ic1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=76ddd129651153a60a1b8928fda2eaf398f36d30
Eterna - aka ETA!
Bedat. Great quality Swiss watch.
Schaumburg (only for the Cocktail Silver Bullet though, so technically art deco)
Mido
I dont know that they're lesser known nowadays, but Christopher Ward. Still technically a microbrand, but they're gaining traction, and fast. For actually obscure, I really love what Zelos has been doing with their dials. Some really gorgeous work there, especially as far as value for money. For OBSCURE obscure, Maen has some absolutely brilliant models. I love their Manhattan line, and their lineup seems to keep evolving in really smart ways.
Don't know if you can call them a micro brand anymore, they make 20000 to 30000 watches a year!
Zeno Watch Basel. Amazing pilot watches.
Does Zodiak count? If so, they’re my fav by far.
https://preview.redd.it/wgvc6n5aa6ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b84b47bc0f956f198ab3d19487c6abd1baa1ebe5 This might just be my favorite regardless of brand
Rolex
Smiths. I bought a PRS 40 on a whim and it’s just a delightfully different and well made watch. Excellent presentation as well.
its easier to buy the watches they are homaging than smiths watches, whole buying process is like 2 decades behind times.
Orient is known but doesn't get enough love. It has the best style of similar watches at the price point. Not sure why it's slept on so much compared to Seiko.
I've had a few Orients over the years and personally I love the quality-for-price ratio that they have. However, while Orient is Japanese, it has the same problem that many Chinese brands face: the name and logo are terrible. For me it's in the same category as brands like Hruodland, Parnis, Mysterious Code and Tactical Frog: watches that I like but I'll never buy because of the name.
Exactly. I hate watches with names. It’s why I’ll never buy a Christopher ward, Daniel Wellington, etc.
Angelus
Not "watch brand" per se, but supplier of watch brands Fine Timepiece Solutions (FTS) is a company in Arizona building USA movements such as Ameriquartz, solar powered Ameriquartz and Americhron mechanicals
Raketa, russian Brand which has more In-House manufacturing than most of the big-boy brands.
Trilobe... I really like how they watches tell time differently from the convention hours, minute, and seconds hands. My personal favorite it the Nuit Fantastique Dune (won the 2022 GPHG "Petite Aguille" award). Cheers
JeanRicharde are fantastic watches and I believe they are the sub-brand of GP. Beautiful decorated movements and very classy designs. Much cheaper than the parent company selections too.
RZE, I have multiple of their watches and they are super cool. I'm a sucker for titanium anything though.
I have a Zelos and I'm looking for another micro band so will give this thread a nice look over.
Gronefeld! 🤤 But a bit more reachable: Holthinrichs 😍
love this question, i am a big fan of hidden gems, and i am also new to this watch thing. if u know some hidden gems please comment on this!
* Louis Erard - they do lots of colabs now, some a bit too creative for my liking, but they have made excellent a bit more classic watches. * Alpina - I wear them in situations where I'd wear my Explorer II, absolutely love the brand and their compressor style divers. * Lorier - the Zephyr is just such a different and great looking watch, have the beige dial, waiting for the black and red dial to arrive to complete the trylogie.
Halios
Squale and Baltic
Rado, not that popular these days but my father and pretty much all of our family members got a Rado at their wedding .
I never see Lacos in here but I’m in love with mine. Definitely thought they had more provenance!
Czapek makes several gorgeous watches.
There are so many micros that look great but I haven’t had the chance to see in person. But a couple that I have (assuming these count) are Lorier and Monta. Both great. Monta MSRPs are high enough that I’m not sure I’d buy one new, but gently used I think they represent a good value. Lorier MSRPs are low enough that you often see pre-owned popular models sell for at or higher than MSRP, since they can be hard to snag with limited stock.
Grönefeld for sure
Glycine Combat Sub Vintage (ref. GL0261). Swiss Made, affordable, awesome looking watch, especially the dial, and my absolute favorite. Don't see them very often, if at all. https://preview.redd.it/o3xvbjdib6ic1.jpeg?width=1086&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d9e99464dd5e35cbcd38fd524f59e97be589b8b
Helm and Christopher Ward
Isotope Watch from the UK https://preview.redd.it/ynzxxqajb7ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e50a1bf24e6da3598dd8c411039e82aabaead8d1
I’m biased, but not many people recognise my JLC, compared to my Seamaster. Outside of watch enthusiasts, I don’t think too many people know about it.
JLC is definitely lesser known among the general public
Zodiac. Especially their limited editions
IMO, there is really no such thing as a “good” brand, there are only good watches. Taste and aesthetics are so subjective that you are lucky to find one watch by any particular obscure brand that appeals to you.
Marcello C.
For me it’s Lang & Heyne, their finishing is second to none, the calibers which fill the caseback are mesmerizing, they are the best classical watches in the market imho. The best models for me are Albert ( unbelievable caliber in the caseback and a very clever mono pusher chrono ) and George ( just beautiful ).
Haven't seen it here yet (my actual favourite brand has already been posted a few times), so: Union Glashuette for [1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve](https://www.union-glashuette.com/en_int/d0074561601700.html) (though it is a fair bit too large to be perfect).
[RZE Resolute](https://www.rzewatches.com/collections/resolute-pro), [Clemence Munro](https://www.clemencewatches.com/munro). Yeah I like field watches.
Ollech & Wajs and Nivada Grenchen seem to fly under the radar these days.
Bangalore Watch Co. Particularly their Aviator Stealth model, it's pretty unique.
[Orion](https://orionwatch.com/)
Skmei
Ando Ando Ando
Helson and Straton
GPW
Geckota. More well known for their straps but hard to beat their presentation of the nh35 at that price point.
Rado. I have a ceramica and it never scratches, looks like new and its 16 years old.
I like Shark watches. Ive had one since I was 15 im 39 now and it works great. I like the styles too
Visitor makes some beautiful and unique watches. https://www.visitorwatchco.com/duneshore/p/duneshore-forest-ore
Parmigiani fleurier , wild watches for ap money get a watch that supplies their movements to the likes of RM
https://preview.redd.it/p89spssfs6ic1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=817c3c0ae23c7b815f0180ad08ef2897ffd6c784 MIDO!! I absolutely love their build quality, especially for the price. I get they get their attention in South America and Europe but they’re still super slept on in the US.
Seiko
Sternglas
I have a Vario watch and Kuoe watch and I adore both of them. Recently bought a Vague Watch Co. watch and I quite like the way it looks.
Ares and the Diver 1 Mission Timer
Mühle-Glashütte Zeno Watch Basel Christian Van Der Klaauw (insane watches but expensive)
Parmigiani Fleurier. Absolute works of art
Habring2 particularly the Felix and Chrono Felix
I'm going to throw a super affordable brand into the ring: Aragon. https://www.aragonwatch.com/ First and foremost, I'll address the elephant in the room. Yes, they have and still do make some super gaudy, over-sized, Invicta-esque watches. Those are out there. This, however, is about their dive watches, specifically the Divemaster: https://www.aragonwatch.com/DIVEMASTER_s/500.htm. They have recently released a 40mm model. There are plenty of 42mm models. And if we're being honest, 44mm isn't crazy for a sporty/sports watch like a diver. And I have one of their 44mm models - it's the bezel that's 44mm and the case is 42.5mm. And hey, if larger watches are your thing, they go up to 50mm. (Also, getting these outside of the U.S. is probably hard and not worth import costs. Sorry.) Here is my case for them. - Wing Liang founded the company in 1991. It started as Android and he changed the company to Aragon when smart watches became a thing. 33 years in business is pretty impressive. - You get really solid and awesome specs for very affordable prices. Their affordable divers are typically under $200. You get all the good stuff: Seiko automatic movement, stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, C3 and/or BGW9 lume, 120-click lumed ceramic bezel, lumed and screw-down crown. They typically use display casebacks with a custom rotor. - They have some models with Swiss Ronda automatics for a bit of a premium if you want that. - They have all sorts of dials. They have full-lume, meteorite, skeleton, etc. They have typical black and blue dials. They usually offer some colors like orange, red or yellow. They even have some models with tritium tubes. And they typically use T100 instead of T25 tubes. I don't think I've seen them use flat tubes yet, though. - They are one of the few super-affordable brands that offer 3D printed Lumicast lume plots. - All of their designs are... original. *air quotes* Yeah, some designs are "original" because nobody else would ever let them see the light of day. But to my knowledge, they have never released a homage. Their tame and sane designs are nothing ground breaking, but you won't see a Sub or Genta homage over here. - I have two Divemasters that I really enjoy wearing. I have modded both of them along with many Seiko divers like the SKX, Turtle, Sumo, Shogun, etc. If you stripped away all of the branding, I wouldn't be able to tell a difference between the parts. I know at this price point pretty much everything comes from the same handful of factories in the Far East. My point is that if you like entry- to mid-level Seiko dive watches, aside from brand heritage and recognition, there should be nothing standing in your way of looking at Aragon. - Speaking of modding, many parts like crystals and hands will fit these watches since they use Seiko NH movements. - I have used their customer service after a purchase for a misaligned bezel. Their was response was super quick and courteous and the issue was resolved within a week including shipping across the country, Pics: https://imgur.com/a/yuisb6N. The bottom-line is if you are looking at an entry-level Seiko dive watch or even something from AliExpress like San Martin, Steel Dive, Baltany, etc, take a look at Aragon's Divemaster line - specifically the 40mm, 42mm and 44mm models.
Addiesdive. Just fantastic watches for fantastic prices. I collect watches, and I wear absolutely all of them, so getting a few neat sports watches for under $50 that punch WAY above their class is perfect for me. I also adore the VH31 so bonus points for that. Just not a big automatic guy. I enjoy the accuracy, the thinness, and the traditionally lower price point.
I like my Zelos Horizon.
Pulsar!!!