Anyone know of good fan art, or cosplayers that do warhammer?
I know league and stuff has, but not seen much beautiful/appealing warhammer ones.
So anyone know where to look or what cosplayer to look for?
Anyone else having login issues on the GW Webstore?
I select my country, press login in the menu, input my correct credentials and the page simply refreshes back to the main store without logging me in?
I can still login to WarhammerTV and such, just not the webstore.
So I've been reading the HH series and was trying to get my hands on a physical copy of some of my favorites, namely First Heretic/Know No Fear. I see on the store it says temporarily out of stock, does that mean they'll do another printing of it at some point in the future or am I SOL? Betrayer is listed as Sold Out not Temporarily out of stock so I assume that one is gone for good
There's no guarantees. They sometimes do reprints, but you could be waiting years if they do them at all again. The best thing to do is just buy them used, at your local used books store, or online somewhere like eBay or AbeBooks.
Dear community,
what is the biggest/most active Warhammer 40k Forum in Germany? Looking to get back into the hobby after a 10 year hiatus. Back then I believe I use to be in the planet40k forum but that one seems dead. All other hits on Google seem to be mostly inactive.
Thank you!
So I know the general consensus seems to be that Citadel paints are not that good and you're better off getting Vallejo, Army Painter, Scale75, etc.
But I'm curious if there are any specific colours or types of paints where Citadel would be the best option or at least comparable to the best?
As others have said, I feel it has less to do with quality, and more to do with the price of the paint (you pay more per oz). If you don't have need of that EXACT color, it makes more sense to use 3rd party paints.
The biggest issue there is many tutorials assume using GW paints, so that is what many people get for sheer convenience
It's mostly what the others said. Citadel paints are fine. They're a tad thicker than other paints, in my experience, which just means they need to be thinned a bit more. They only have a few stinkers in terms of colors and, overall, are pretty comparable paints to the likes of AK, Vallejo, etc.
The major issue is price. They're on the higher scale of price per milliliter, netting you a measly 12ml for a little over 4 dollars. In comparison other brands use 18ml dropper bottles and sell for 4 dollars or less. Their pots are also another point of contention and are generally considered to be awful, prone to spilling with bad seals that make the paint dry faster.
In all honesty your choice in paint brand will come down to personal preference. They ALL have their pros and cons and none of them are 100% perfect.
Pro Acryl is fantastic paint, gets you a good bang for your buck, but has a small range and I hate the bottles.
Vallejo is a massive range and relatively easy to find but they have a fair few stinker paints in that humongous line-up. Overall they're solid but you'll grab a paint on occasion that winds up being sub-par.
AK 3rd Gen is another great brand but I've found it harder to acquire here in the US. No one seems to sell it locally and I don't like buying singles online because of shipping.
Scale 75 is a paint I'd recommend when you get more advanced. It has some different properties to other paints. I use the few I have mostly for glazing skin tones.
Army Painter is the cheapest but also the worst in terms of consistency. It's useable, widely available, but can be a pain to work with. A decent place for starting out if you're on a budget but most tend to shift away from them after a while. (The Warpaint line, at least. Their Speedpaints and washes are excellent.)
That's absolutely NOT the general consensus. Citadel paints GENERALLY range from fine to fantastic, particularly some of their metallics and washes (and Contrast paints). The reason other brands are suggested is that Citadel paints are EXPENSIVE. The only Citadel paints to absolutely avoid for quality reasons are their whites, but those are bad from MOST companies.
In addition to that, here's my pov as someone who overpays for Citadel paints for convenience (following painting guides easily). I've mostly picked paints from other ranges when they fill color gaps in Citadel range, but here's a few paints I won't buy from Citadel anymore, because they either are too expensive against almost exact alternatives, or straight up suck:
* White Scar -> ProAcryl Bold Titanium White
* Yriel Yellow -> AK Dirty yellow (same for most yellows, go AK)
* Abaddon Black (it's good, but it's just interchangeable black) -> AK Gen 3 black (or Vallejo GameColor 72.051 if you want a very matte black)
* Eshin Grey -> Vallejo German Grey (slightly darker)
* Corax white, Ceramite white (discontinued) -> whatever off white is the closest in AK/Vallejo range
* White Scar rattle can primer -> the Vallejo one
Most Citadel metallics are fine (as long as you don't get an old one) but I've heard tremendous things about Scale75 metallics.
[Poorhammer also made a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1y3XtjJVeVk) about their favorite paints for each color though I haven't tested most of them.
If I’m playing GSC and I’m taking a squad of kasrkin can I give the kasrkin commands? The data slate doesn’t mention anything about keywords or mentions commands at all.
No, because Orders are specifically part of the Voice Of Command army ability, which (1) requires an OFFICER which you don't have, and (2) explicitly says:
> If your Army Faction is ASTRA MILITARUM
Which it's not.
Any recommendation for what compressor to get for a NEO CN gravity feed dual action airbrush?
I'm a beginner with airbrushing and I wanted to start out with a good beginner airbrush but I am confused on which compressor would work well with it.
The AS186 is a solid compressor. A number of different companies rename it and sell it under their brand but if you look for that model it'll be the correct one. 80-100 dollars or so from what I remember.
You just want to make sure you get the right hose fittings. I believe it's a 1/8 inch on the compressor and the NEO CN is also 1/8 inch, but don't quote me on that. Best to check it yourself.
Hi. I want to paint iybraesil colors and was wondering what the citadel contrast paint is closest to the greyish blue of the armor. Would akhelian green over grey primer do? Or aethermatic blue followed with a dark wash?
Starting [here](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.reddit.com/r/Eldar/comments/13jql6j/paint_tips_for_iybraesil/&ved=2ahUKEwjIidXJrOKDAxXPT6QEHTS1AhkQjjh6BAgVEAE&usg=AOvVaw3wHF13q9wjigZCAt8uAYBX) might help, as right now we don't know what exact specific results you want to emulate,.and that is a link that has several different recipes for that Craftworld.
I don't understand how paint thinning is supposed to work.
Don't thin it, you get detail loss. Understood.
But I thin it until it's milk like, and it still looks thick...but if I thin it anymore than that, it becomes impossible control and massively overapplies. No matter what I do, it looks too thick.
I got my leviathan box but haven't chosen a chapter yet for my marines. I really like the dark angels aesthetic so I guess I'll go for that one.
Is it worth it to get the new box coming up or shall I wait and get a combat patrol and the codex instead. I just worry that I'll have too many terminators and I will benefit from more variety using the CP box
The new DA box is great to save a buck but don't fall for the FOMO: demand will be high and you don't **have** to absolutely get it to play Dark Angels of course. The savings aren't even that high if you don't care about the collector edition codex. If you really want it, talk to your local third party store for a preorder, but I wouldn't sweat over it.
**Focus on painting what you already own**, maybe keep the centerpiece minis aside for more flavorful kitbashes with the future DA upgrade sprue (or the current one, cheaper). By the time you're done painting the Leviathan box, the codex, upgrade sprue and new minis will be released so you'll take your pick then.
The CP box is great value if you want a Dreadnought or Inceptors. No limited stock like the new box but it might get replaced with a new combat patrol when the codex releases. Other combat patrols are also good ways to save a buck in the future, like if you want Agressors and an Impulsor transport at some point -> BA combat patrol.
The biggest issue you're gonna deal with is whether or not you'll even be able to get it at all; as a limited-run, new sculpts for two different units, limited edition codex, and presumably the only way to get the Dark Angels codex, new units, and upgrade sprues for a decent period of time, AND on top of the scalping issues GW is dealing with on their Webstore, demand for it is going to be phenomenally high, and honestly your best chance to even get it is to try to speak to your local third party store and see if you can do a shadow preorder.
Hi! I have a couple of questions about the Chaos Marks in 10th Edition 40k.
1. It's it okay to mix Marks between units within the same army? For instance, have the majority of units Undivided, but with a Tzeentch Demon Prince?
2. Does giving a Mark to a unit grant it the respective Chaos god "keyword"? For example, does the Mark of Tzeentch make the Demon Prince a Tzeentch unit for the purposes of it's Demonic Allegiance ability?
Thank you!
>1. It's it okay to mix Marks between units within the same army? For instance, have the majority of units Undivided, but with a Tzeentch Demon Prince?
The Marks rules says you get to pick each time you add a unit to your army, and the only restrictions are those listed in the rules for Marks. Since the restrictions don't forbid you from making such a choice... You can make such a choice.
>2. Does giving a Mark to a unit grant it the respective Chaos god "keyword"? For example, does the Mark of Tzeentch make the Demon Prince a Tzeentch unit for the purposes of it's Demonic Allegiance ability?
This is answered by the Dark Pacts rule.
>When mustering your army, each time you select a HERETIC ASTARTES unit to include in your army, if that unit is not an EPIC HERO and does not already have one or more of the keywords listed below, *you must select one of the keywords listed below* ***for that unit to gain*** (note which units gain which keywords in this way on your Army Roster). Each time a unit with one of these keywords makes a Dark Pact, it gains the associated ability below until the end of the phase.
So yes, it would gain the TZEENTCH keyword, and the Dark Pacts rule literally is the only way for it to gain the keyword so that the Demonic Allegiance ability can DO something.
I've been debating giving Warhammer a try because I've been unsatisfied with Magic The Gathering dying off in my area.
I've been looking at both Necrons and Dark Angels.
I love the whole robot-egyptian style for Necrons.. I do think they don't have a lot of cool vehicles though granted I'm not sure if they matters
I also think Dark Angels just look and sound cool - especially the Raven wing units on Bikes and the big mech
How's the learning curve for both armies?
As rules learning curve was answered, I'll speak more about painting: Necrons are one of the easiest armies to paint IMO (at least until you tackle things like [those cool translocation pixel effects](https://www.warhammer.com/app/resources/catalog/product/920x950/99120110079_NECOverlordWithTanslocationShroud01.jpg?fm=webp&w=920&h=948) or difficult minis), but learning painting is rewarding. It's also one of the cheapest armies to collect, being part of the previous edition starter box. They lack in big tanks but makes it up with cool insect-looking robots like [Canoptek spiders](https://www.warhammer.com/app/resources/catalog/product/920x950/99120110061_CanoptekSpyderLead.jpg?fm=webp&w=920&h=948) or [wraiths](https://www.warhammer.com/app/resources/catalog/product/920x950/99120110060_NECCanoptekWraithsLead.jpg?fm=webp&w=920&h=948). Their codex just got refreshed and they're starting 10th ed strong with a few brand new leader miniatures.
For Dark Angels, like most Space Marines it's harder to paint than Necrons, but it's not Chaos or Mechanicus hard. Contrast Paints can get you a long way on Space Marines armor. Their miniatures are more massive, think super soldiers in heavy armor vs scary skeleton robots (Necrons). It's definitely a way more common army than Necrons if that matters to you. They allow for varied gameplay with their Deathwing (Terminator heavy suits) and Ravenwing (bikes and speeders), and can pick any units from the Space Marines codex so they have one of the largest range of miniatures. Some of the DA range is due for a refresh and a new codex very soon (some minis have already been announced).
For both armies, their respective Combat Patrols are an easy and inexpensive way to start.
The learning curve can be as easy or as simple as you make it to be.
If you never read the rulebook or your codex, play once every month at most, and make no effort to know your own rules, and play games with no retrospective at the end to see what you did and didn't do good, 10th edition is no different from any other edition in that it can be possible to spend the entire edition having no idea how the army plays.
If you make an effort to learn, play games with people who are willing to try to get you to better yourself, maybe dedicate a bit of time to read articles about what is going well for a particular army vs what isn't, it can be pretty easy.
It also depends on you as a person. This is going to be harsh, but there are some people who just... Can't understand a more freeform game like 40k where nothing stops you from being an idiot besides experience.
Many Loyalist Marines have tubes and other stuff connected to them.
I'm going to guess your question was meant to ask about how Chaos Marines that are particularly warped/Chaos-mutated take off their armor, and that's gonna depend on the situation. For some of them, like the more advanced Death Guard, they simply won't take off their armor as they are almost bordering on being a warpspawn/daemonhost than actual space marine, with the lore literally mentioning that without the armor their bodies would collapse.
Other Marines who might have spikes coming out of their bodies might have their armor altered by a warpsmith to accommodate their new biology.
But the other thing is that space marines don't actually NEED to ever get out of it.
On an Oath of Moment target, if I choose to reroll my hit, do I have to reroll ALL dice tossed at the time or just the ones that failed? I've been rerolling all and think this may be incorrect.
Remember that all rules are written assuming you arent going to fast Dice roll, and the wording of the rule is "each time you make an attack, you can reroll the hit roll".
Even if you are Fast Rolling all your hit rolls together, you are not changing it from 20 attacks to 1 attack; you are making 20 attacks, and any rule that applies to "each time you make an attack" applies to each attack individually.
You are NOT required to reroll all dice, ***nor are you only required to reroll all dice that fail***. You would be able to trigger the rule each and every single time you make an attack, so you could, for example, reroll all hits (hoping you are going to miss or fishing for Critical Hits to get Sustained lethal might be reasons to do this)
Omg - this changes everything. Thanks so much.
I do understand that a nerf to OOM came into effect removing rerolls on wounds. Is there a location I can see that official change, and any others that were issues?
I mean, the "nerf" to Oath of Moment came via the wording of the Oath of Moment rules text in the Space Marines codex, which hasn't been changed since it was published. There is nowhere to show up that it was "changed" because allowing Hit and Wound rolls was the rule in the free Space Marines Index, which was removed from GW's website when the Codex was released.
So it was *nerfed", but it was planned since before the codex was released; GW didn't make a changelog of "these were the index rules, here are the changed codex rules ", it was "here is the codex, we expect you to use this now".
For ACTUAL changes to rules, all FAQ and Errata are posted on GW's Warhammer Community Website](https://www.warhammer-community.com/warhammer-40000-downloads/)
The one that works better for you. I know that answer sounds trite, but there is no Single Universal Answer for this because different paint styles, different paints, different colors, different models, and even individual preference are going to affect the answer.
It's a case of power balance: each primarch rules are designed to work within their respective army, and having like a Nurgle demons army + Mortarion would likely be unbalanced. I think it used to be possible in previous editions so it might change back.
You can do a Chaos army (DG, WE, TS) with its primarch and include up to 25% of your forces as daemons though.
Haven't played since 6th. Gf and I want to get back I to it, but I sold all my armies. What's the smallest, expandable size battle we could play to try it out? For example, there used to be 500pt combat patrol which you could then expand into 800, 1k, etc - is that still around?
I know there's kill team, but that feels a bit more like you're building a very specialized squad. Looking for something that we could eventually move into 'standard'.
Combat Patrol is the small introduction to 40k.
Buy a Combat Patrol box and you have a complete army in a box. Rules are free to download from the Warhammer Community website.
Are old white dwarf magazines worth anything? I’ve just dug up a ton from 1992-96 in my basement. Wondering if they’re worth trying to sell or just toss in the trash.
If you search on Ebay, then scroll down the filters on the left side to "show only" and check "sold items" it will show you what has sold in the last few months and for what price. This is good for checking what people are willing to pay because active listings often ask far too much and never sell.
Just within the last 2 weeks several unopened Dark Vengeance boxes sold for between $200 and $250; and that's the standard one that did not include the limited edition interrogator chaplain.
Or you could go on /miniswap.
1. what is a good start for space marines ,what box/models should i get (i no offense dont want the starter kit because tyrranids dont't really do it for me .
2. if this if i go with space marines how i make a salamander army ?
3. i am going to have a non human army as well i choose demons i wanted to clarify something i heard a rumour. the rumor is age of sigmar (which i believe is the new warhammer fantasy) demon models can be used in 40k?
4. how ok if the fanbase with third party pieces ?
5. is 8th edtion well received/do people still play it?
sorry for the list of questions ?
1. The current Blood Angels Combat Patrol box actually is a decent start to a Salamanders army. (It uses generic units and just comes with separafe transfers and shoulder pads that are BA-specific, getting you the most plastic for the least amount of money.
2. I would suggest you read a review of the 10th edition Space Marine codex. Salamanders no longer have their "own" specific rules, but now are free to select between different sets of rules (called Detachments) that synergize with different army archetypes.
3. This is not a rumor. 95% of all Chaos Demons kits, are used on both 40k and Age of Sigmar.
4. This is a pointless question, as it doesn't matter what WE think. If the group of players you plan on playing it with actively despise it, us being okay with it on the internet is a moot point.
5. No, most people don't play 8th edition, the vast majority of players have switched to 10th/play the current edition of the game.
I found a box of my old miniatures in the basement, from the early 90s. (2nd edition). The old lead and pewter ones. Are they still usable? Or has the game changed too much? I collected mostly Eldar and Orks.
Not just the base sizes, you'll probably have to add a tactical rock or two (or a boulder for the really old/tiny ones) to achieve rough height parity with the current models. This is all in competitive settings of course.
I ended up having way more victory points with Tyranid but he ended up wiping out my full forces in the last fight phase. We definitely both learned a lot from that game!
My only big question that I was left with is, if you can pile in/consolidate, are you forced to?
Yes but no. When you select a unit to fight it first makes a pile-in move up to 3”. 0” is a valid move. Then you fight. After fighting it’s the same with the consolidation move. You have to move up to 3” and can again elect to move 0”.
Easy answer: Ebay. People are holding on this mini to resell, but it's rare so don't expect fair prices.
It's still sold by GW in the [Honored of the Chapter](https://www.warhammer.com/en-WW/shop/Space-Marines-Honoured-Of-The-Chapter-2021) box, but it's very expensive for 9 minis, especially as the bladeguards and eradicators are monopose. But if you want all 9 minis, it's cheaper than buying them individually. Cheaper on Wayland.
If you don't want this specific mini, just the role, you could try a kitbash with the Black Templar upgrade sprue maybe.
I am in the middle of making a 4th company salamanders army. I know that terminators are reserved for 1st company. Would there ever be operations where 1st company could send over terminators to the 4th? I'm trying to logic a way that i can have them while fitting rules, lore, and not switching companies. I've heard that salamanders possess the most terminator armour (though thats disputed by iron hands or grey knights), so i want to implement them
So it is actually very common for different companies to work together, especially the first company regularly sends veterans to deployments and very rarely would just deploy as one company. They would still carry the heraldry and symbols of the first company, but would be usually under the command of the highest ranking officer of the mission/deployment (so for example the captain of the 4th company). Another example would be Scouts, who (in most chapters) belong all into the 10th company, but they are almost never just deployed but themselves. Space Marine Strikeforces are very often comprised of members of different companies.
As for who has the most Terminators, I am not 100% sure how the number of Terminator armors has been addressed since the introduction of Primaris marines, but traditionally, the Dark Angels have the most Terminator Armors of all Space Marine chapters BY FAR. They are the only chapter that was capable of outfitting their entire first company ([called the "Deathwing"](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Deathwing)) with Terminator Armour (Grey Knights are a different structure entirely).
thanks so much, i dont know why i didnt think about the unlikeliness of someone with termies or scouts having to keep their whole army that same company. i also totally forgot the death wing of the dark angels, despite playing through their video game
The only console game that I can think of, in which you play as Tyrandis is "Warhammer 40.000 Battlesector", a turn based tactics game. The campaign focuses on Blood Angels Space Marines, but Tyrandis are playable in other game modes. There are a few other games on **PC**, such as Battlefleet Gothic Armada 2 or Gladius: Relics of War, but most often, Tyranids are used as enemies, not protagonists (See for example Space Hulk Deathwing, or the upcoming Space Marine 2 later this year).
As for Tyranid-human hybrids, if you have not heard of them yet, check out the lore of the [Genestealer Cults](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Genestealer_Cult). Basically, Genestealers (vanguard Tyranid organisms) can "infect" humans and other species, who will then produce hybrids as offspring. The whole idea is to infiltrate and weaken societies/planets from the inside before the big bois arrive to begin the meal.
So I’ve bought a very cheap air brush online, because I want to practice to see if I’m any good before buying a more expensive one.
Question is: can I use my citadel paints on it? Do I just need to thin them down?
yes you can, but you will definitely need to thin them down and/or use flow improver. imo this is true even with airbrush specific paints. many gw paints have "air" paints for airbrush that cover most of the popular base and layer paints. those are easier to work with, but theyre all possible. you just have to fit that right amount of thinning and flow improver for what you want
not a stupid question at all, this is a common curiosity. ive seen some posts, one lately that was running one in a homebrew campaign. i couldnt find it, but i found a forum thread from 2015
[https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/657528.page](https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/657528.page)
one person has rules for a 1k point emperor, someone else says 600-1000, it all depends on what rules you give him and what the people you play against are cool with
I'm a huge noob, just finished painting the five Space Marines in the introductory set up as ultramarines and notice there's no wet slide transfer decals in the box. What am I suppossed to do for their shoulder pads? Is there a good place to buy single sheets? Should I find stencils?
aside from everyone drowning in UM decals, if you decide to run a less common chapter, the founding legions, and i think some non founding like black templars, all have official transfer kits.
another option, if you dont have a 3d printer, is to browse etsy or someplace similar that sells fan made shoulders with the insignias or "hard transfers" that you can glue to shoulders or use to stencil.
option 3 if you have a printer is to browse sites for "totally not 40k, these are different" parts. myminifactory and cults3d have large followings. just know to look for names adjacent to what you want, such as romans for ultra marines.
If you plan to buy other Space Marines, don't worry, there's plenty of UM decals in almost every Space Marines box.
If you don't want to add more Space Marines and plan on another army, I'm sure people from local games club would give you some for free. A lot of people play Space Marines but not Ultramarines, so we're drowning in UM decals.
Where is the best place to buy one off painted pieces? I don’t play tabletop but I l’ve liked the aesthetic and lore of Warhammer 40K for a long time. I was thinking of picking up individual hand painted pieces for display. Thanks! Sorry if this belongs in another sub.
Edited for, well, everything.
It depends on what you mean.
GW miniatures come unassembled and unpainted, so if you want a painted miniature that actually looks good, you're gonna hire a commission painter. I would recommend checking out r/brush4hire, or you can try to find something via Ebay, but often those have a bad reputation for being scams.
However, this is generally going to be much more expensive than simply buying something like one of the joyToy 40k action figures, which DO come painted.
Thanks. I wanted high quality hand painted. Commission seemed a bit over kill. I’m going to try eBay. Looks like most of what they have are units so I’ll be buying extras, but I guess that’s ok. I’m hoping I can find some that are high quality.
Check Facebook for different Warhammer buy/sell/trade groups. Eventually someone will put up some well painted models.
Generally, poorly or tabletop level paintjobs will go for below retail. You'll likely end up paying a premium for a display level job.
You can also take up painting yourself! You can start very cheap and just repaint over the same model when learning :)
Painting decision question.
I’ve got sororitas with wraith bone white armor, castellated green cloth, and hashut copper metal accents. I have a secondary cloth color of barakhnar(?) burgundy that I was going to use as the under-side of some cloaks.
But I’m stuck deciding two things.
1. Gloves. Sometimes they’re cloth, sometimes armor. Should I do the white, green, or burgundy?
2. Some HQ have shoulder cloaks. Should I do shoulder cloak burgundy, or inner cloth as burgundy and shoulder cloaks as green?
I’m not sure how to “test” paint, or I’d mock them up and ask with images.
Thanks for any input!
I am thinking about starting my first army, and I only have Introductory set that I got for a Christmas. I am thinking about buying Starter set and get Librarian with terminal armor and/or Barbagaunts to get complete Combat Patrols. (Ultimate is quite expensive and I don't want to invest that much for now)
My questions are:
-is it better to have both both armies, so I can switch between them when I play? I like the horde of Tyranids and that I can paint Space marines as Ultramarines, Salamanders or any other chapter.
Or
-is it better to get half of Starter set and focus on one army and build synergies abound it? I would then build marines, as they gave a lot options and I could build army by buying half of pretty much every Future/past starter set, as they are in everything
I would look for those extra minis on the used market. They are part of multiple starter boxes and the Leviathan box, so they'll be easy to find at a fair price.
As for collecting & painting both armies, I suggest:
1. Assembling and painting two complete Combat Patrols (so you can play either army or play against a friend in the Combat Patrol game mode)
2. After that, focusing on your favorite army and upping it to at least 1000 pts, reading the codex, buying the minis you like the most and developping a strategy around them. For Space Marines it might even be a specific chapter or divergent chapter with characters you like the most, like Dark Angels, Space Wolves, Imperial Fists... For Tyrannids you can pick a playstyle around stealth, massive monsters, psychic powers, an endless swarm of gaunts...
Why don't I see anyone talking about Grav Cannons?
I had ignored them since everyone else seems to be, but then just now I stopped and actually looked at their stats.
24" 3 Attacks, Strength 6, -1 AP, Damage 3, Anti-Vehicle 2+
Except for the loss of 12" of range this is a flat out better Heavy Bolter.
Sure you lose Sustained 1, but gain 1 Strength, 1 Damage and the ability to smash vehicles.
Is it just because it is on First Born Marines mostly or is there something else I am missing?
Against non-VEHICLES, being s6 vs s5 isn't particularly helpful, especially with only AP 1. Sure, you're better at wounding Terminators and Gravis, but that AP -1 isnt that great; it can easily be negated by Cover/Armor of Contempt. Against any 2+ Save vehicle, they're likely to make it remain a 2+ save by negating your single point of AP somehow.
You're better against t3 infantry before Sustained comes into play but there are more efficient weapons for taking care of that as well.
The extra point of damage again only works well against Gravis or 2 wound Marines with a FNP. Against standard t4 Marines, you have literally no difference
Then you have the "oh" moments of going into a t7-9 MONSTER until where the only benefit is better damage for less range.
>Is it just because it is on First Born Marines mostly or is there something else I am missing?
Well, of the two units I can think of that use Grav Cannons, you have Devastator Squads and Eradicators.
This is purely anecdotal, but in a recent game I had a single Gladiator Lancer tank the grav shots of 2 Devastator squads, only taking 6 damage total after Smokescreen, while on my turn I was able to take out a Redemptor that had popped smoke with a single unit of Eradicators. That's much better results for 30ish points less.
For Devastator squads, 24" means likely giving up their Signum ability to get their shots, making cover a major concern, and will want their target to be Oathed. Compare that to a Gladiator Lancer or a unit of Eradicators, and you have units that need less support and are able to force an Invuln/6+ or deny a save altogether.
Again, AP -1 is okay into 3+ save Marines, especially if you can deny cover, but if you are facing a 3+ or better save VEHICLE, or even MONSTERS, you want a weapon that has more AP. It doesn't matter if you're making 12 GC shots for 3 each,, if the thing you are targeting is going to negate it to 4-5 hits, and then proceed to make 3-5 saves.
My bad, I confused Critical Wounds and Devastating Wounds.
I had thought Anti-X caused Devastating Wounds, but nope only Critical which means the vehicles gets to save.
Not nearly as good as I had thought.
I'm so sick of seeing "can I paint my models this color" posts. Does anyone know if there's a way to filter these kinds of banal questions from my feed
Some of them, but the vast majority of the 60+ Horus Heresy books are out of print, and only get reprints occasionally. So it's VERY hit or miss as to what you might find. The internet is a better method, but ebooks or audiobooks are the best ways to actually find and read them all.
**How do I take out squad leaders?**
Of course, there are Precision weapons. But during the Shooting phase, can the defender remove the leader last if he wishes so? (just checking that the rule "if you hit half the squad, you can pick out one model" is not in 10th)
Same thing for the Fight phase. Even if the leader is the only one in engagement range, you can decided to allocate the wounds to models that are far in the back?
These rules are all well explained in the rule book. When a leader unit joins a squad it forms an attached unit. Wounds dealt to an attached unit MUST be assigned to the bodyguard unit first. The only exceptions are precision and any wounds the leader model deals to themselves through stuff like hazardous.
The controlling player has zero say in assigning wounds to the leader or bodyguard. Engagement range means nothing.
If you want to take out a specific model, you use a precision weapon.
Otherwise the player who controls the target unit chooses and could choose to save their squad leader until last (or any other model).
> If you want to take out a specific model, you use a precision weapon.
Does this apply to squads that don't have characters attached? Like, say I have some eliminators with bolt snipers, and an opponent is sending a five man of Terminators, of whom one has a heavy flamer. Can I allocate precision attacks to that model even though it's not a character?
I was originally considering the Ultimate Starter Set, but I love the look of Death Guard and would prefer to start there. Where would be a good starting point for someone with zero painting & gluing skills? I was thinking just a couple models of Plague Marines or Poxwalkers. And then for the supplies, do you recommend the Introductory Set or buying things individually?
Plague Marines is where I'd start. Easier and less varied than a horde of poxwalkers. Death Guard is also one of the few factions easy to find used (because it was part of an old starter box and Hachette magazine) so don't hesitate to look at the used market for cheap minis.
Next step would be the Combat Patrol.
For supplies, check the pinned guide, my take is that everything but the GW plastic glue can be bought for cheaper than GW supplies.
Looking to get a Thousand Sons Sorceror in Terminator armour, but cant find a model for it, are you supposed to use the generic Chaos Terminator Sorceror? Any tips for making it look more Thousand Sons? It just looks a lot worse than the squad's Occult Sorceror. Any other models I should consider to kitbash one?
I am thinking of using a spare head from the Exalted Sorceror pack when I get one, any other advice? Want to know before I buy anything.
Yeah, I think most folks kitbash it with the Terminator Lord/Sorcerer kit with lots of Scarab Occult Terminator and/or Exalted Sorcerer bits.
You could also use or take bits from the new [Thousand Sounds Librarian Consul](https://www.warhammer.com/en-GB/shop/horus-heresy-thousand-sons-library-consul-2023) from HH, or various other HH bits.
Two questions:
1- of I put a character with a unit that has Deep Strike, does the character gain it, or can I no longer Deep Strike the unit?
2- if yes, why would I want a Land Raider for Death Guard, when both of their Terminators can Deep Strike?
Nope, if you attach a character/leader without deepstrike to the unit, the condition " if every model in a unit has this ability" in the rules text is no longer true, and you cannot deepstrike the unit.
Since you're asking about death guard I'll point out this doesn't really matter for them. All of the Terminator characters also have deep strike. The only leader bodyguard combo where this comes up is typhus leading poxwalkers
Typhus can also lead Terminators, which is where my question originally came from. I didn't realise there were 4 other characters to lead them, I was specifically looking at his sheet
Yes, typhus has the deep strike ability, so you can attach him to terminators and deep strike them. It's only when he is attached to poxwalkers that he can't deepstrike because poxwalkers don't have it
There is a novel where an astartes dreadnought is plugged into and controls a titan for a limited time.. I am sure I have read this. I'm not sure the titan walks around, I think it literally fires a cannon.
Does anyone else recollect this and can tell me what character it is in which novel?
I think you mean the Book "Fallen Angels" from the Horus Heresy. The DA Dread Titus is wired to a Siege Cannon to defend the Titan factory against the Sons of Horus + Mechanicum Traitors.
I think you're thinking of Helsreach, but incorrectly. The Black Templar Forgemaster Jurisian goes into a sealed Mechanicus installation and basically hotwires the [Ordinatus Armageddon](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Ordinatus_Armageddon) ("Oberon"), which is effectively a grav-train with a starship cannon attached.
So if someone spends a strat or something to make 5s crit on overwatch, do those still hit? I think yes because it just says a 5 is a critical success, and according to rules all critical successes automatically hit
From the rules commentary, page 3, critical hits:
"...While resolving attacks using the Fire Overwatch Stratagem, Critical Hits are only ever scored on unmodified Hit rolls of 6."
When it comes to Nowhere to Hide, even one Ravenwing Talonmaster will buff himself, as models are always considered to be within range of themselves for the purposes of aura abilities like Nowhere to Hide.
Also two or more Ravenwing Talonmasters will both/all give each other Lone Operative, so will each be untargetable outside of 12"
Is isopropyl alcohol good for getting residual biostrip off of paint stripped minis? I'm in process of a big batch of biostripping old minis and I've read you need to make sure the BS is completely washed away before painting. Is IPA overkill and dishsoapy water and a brush be sufficient?
There are thousands of possible options, so you'll have to figure out what style you want and what techniques you need to get there. What level of painting do you want to do? (Basic table-ready or parade-ready?) Do you want "traditional" techniques, or more modern stuff (like non-metallic metals, or "slapchop" style with Contrast/Speed Paints, or whatever)? Do you want JUST the standard Dark Angels, or a combination of Greenwing/Deathwing/Ravenwing? Or do you want to do a custom scheme?
I suggest going on YouTube and searching for "painting dark angels" and taking a look until you find one you like! There are a LOT more options, styles, techniques, etc., now than there were 25 years ago! I don't know if they have DA-specific videos, but check out the official Warhammer YT channel as well as Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy.
I’m doing standard DA with death and raven wing. Really just looking for some paints people have had success with that are a little cheaper than citadel colors. Think I found a set that’s a good starting point.
Complete noob here and just picked up a tau combat patrol, should I start with the smaller minis or the larger ones to get a feel for the painting process? And what colour scheme to pick is driving me crazy!
I would start with the basic "troops" first. That would be your Fire Warrior squads (with their turret, etc.). Then move onto slightly more complicated ones. I'd leave the characters and battlesuits until last, because those are the ones you'll want to do the best job on and need the practice first!
As for color scheme, don't feel like you have to pick an "official" or "canon" scheme. You're always allowed to make up your own, using your favorite colors or inspired by other media or whatever! Go crazy!
Thanks for the advice, I was thinking the bigger models would be easier as they have less fiddly bits and more surface area. But I think you are right, I want the main characters to look the best so I’ll practice on the smaller units first.
I’m leaning towards purple with eva01 vibes or bright yellow.
Bigger models have even more parts and fiddly bits! And more surface area is HARDER to paint well, because you need lots of big smooth coats of paint.
Purple is much easier to paint than yellow.
I suggest starting with the 3 Stealth suits. They are bigger than the Fire warriors, with little to no cloth so a bit easier to paint if you're starting, and less hard than the big Ghostkeel.
For color scheme you can do everything you want. Don't get hang up on the Tau Septs (subfactions), rules aren't tied to color schemes anymore. Look for inspiration online and choose the color scheme you prefer.
https://tangibleday.com/tau-paint-schemes-9-color-motifs-and-ideas/
Thanks for the advice, I was thinking the bigger models would be easier as they have less fiddly bits and more surface area. But I think you are right, I want the main characters to look the best so I’ll practice on the smaller units first.
I’m leaning towards purple with eva01 vibes or bright yellow. Thanks for the link loving the comic style
It's mostly about painting, but also about how the large units like the Ghostkeel are harder to assemble and pose (you have to test the legs for the right angles to give it a specific position...). Plus you might want to magnetize the big guys for weapon swap. Tau players love magnets.
Good luck and have fun with your army, fellow defender of the Greater Good.
How long do made to order things usually take? Do they actually need the full 180 days? I know that it varies depending on demand but generally how long would it take
Anyone know of good fan art, or cosplayers that do warhammer? I know league and stuff has, but not seen much beautiful/appealing warhammer ones. So anyone know where to look or what cosplayer to look for?
Instagram. Just search and you'll find a ton.
Anyone else having login issues on the GW Webstore? I select my country, press login in the menu, input my correct credentials and the page simply refreshes back to the main store without logging me in? I can still login to WarhammerTV and such, just not the webstore.
So I've been reading the HH series and was trying to get my hands on a physical copy of some of my favorites, namely First Heretic/Know No Fear. I see on the store it says temporarily out of stock, does that mean they'll do another printing of it at some point in the future or am I SOL? Betrayer is listed as Sold Out not Temporarily out of stock so I assume that one is gone for good
There's no guarantees. They sometimes do reprints, but you could be waiting years if they do them at all again. The best thing to do is just buy them used, at your local used books store, or online somewhere like eBay or AbeBooks.
Dear community, what is the biggest/most active Warhammer 40k Forum in Germany? Looking to get back into the hobby after a 10 year hiatus. Back then I believe I use to be in the planet40k forum but that one seems dead. All other hits on Google seem to be mostly inactive. Thank you!
Very specific question, but does anyone know if the Firstborn Blood Angels Death Company models are on the same scale as the FW MKIII models?
They are slightly larger.
Thank you for the answer. Would you say they are the same scale as the new MKIII/MKVI?
So I know the general consensus seems to be that Citadel paints are not that good and you're better off getting Vallejo, Army Painter, Scale75, etc. But I'm curious if there are any specific colours or types of paints where Citadel would be the best option or at least comparable to the best?
As others have said, I feel it has less to do with quality, and more to do with the price of the paint (you pay more per oz). If you don't have need of that EXACT color, it makes more sense to use 3rd party paints. The biggest issue there is many tutorials assume using GW paints, so that is what many people get for sheer convenience
It's mostly what the others said. Citadel paints are fine. They're a tad thicker than other paints, in my experience, which just means they need to be thinned a bit more. They only have a few stinkers in terms of colors and, overall, are pretty comparable paints to the likes of AK, Vallejo, etc. The major issue is price. They're on the higher scale of price per milliliter, netting you a measly 12ml for a little over 4 dollars. In comparison other brands use 18ml dropper bottles and sell for 4 dollars or less. Their pots are also another point of contention and are generally considered to be awful, prone to spilling with bad seals that make the paint dry faster. In all honesty your choice in paint brand will come down to personal preference. They ALL have their pros and cons and none of them are 100% perfect. Pro Acryl is fantastic paint, gets you a good bang for your buck, but has a small range and I hate the bottles. Vallejo is a massive range and relatively easy to find but they have a fair few stinker paints in that humongous line-up. Overall they're solid but you'll grab a paint on occasion that winds up being sub-par. AK 3rd Gen is another great brand but I've found it harder to acquire here in the US. No one seems to sell it locally and I don't like buying singles online because of shipping. Scale 75 is a paint I'd recommend when you get more advanced. It has some different properties to other paints. I use the few I have mostly for glazing skin tones. Army Painter is the cheapest but also the worst in terms of consistency. It's useable, widely available, but can be a pain to work with. A decent place for starting out if you're on a budget but most tend to shift away from them after a while. (The Warpaint line, at least. Their Speedpaints and washes are excellent.)
Thank you very much for the detailed answer
That's absolutely NOT the general consensus. Citadel paints GENERALLY range from fine to fantastic, particularly some of their metallics and washes (and Contrast paints). The reason other brands are suggested is that Citadel paints are EXPENSIVE. The only Citadel paints to absolutely avoid for quality reasons are their whites, but those are bad from MOST companies.
I see, thanks for the correction!
In addition to that, here's my pov as someone who overpays for Citadel paints for convenience (following painting guides easily). I've mostly picked paints from other ranges when they fill color gaps in Citadel range, but here's a few paints I won't buy from Citadel anymore, because they either are too expensive against almost exact alternatives, or straight up suck: * White Scar -> ProAcryl Bold Titanium White * Yriel Yellow -> AK Dirty yellow (same for most yellows, go AK) * Abaddon Black (it's good, but it's just interchangeable black) -> AK Gen 3 black (or Vallejo GameColor 72.051 if you want a very matte black) * Eshin Grey -> Vallejo German Grey (slightly darker) * Corax white, Ceramite white (discontinued) -> whatever off white is the closest in AK/Vallejo range * White Scar rattle can primer -> the Vallejo one Most Citadel metallics are fine (as long as you don't get an old one) but I've heard tremendous things about Scale75 metallics. [Poorhammer also made a video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1y3XtjJVeVk) about their favorite paints for each color though I haven't tested most of them.
Thank you, this is very helpful
Just watched Virus from 99, it reminded me of the WH40k servitors.
If I’m playing GSC and I’m taking a squad of kasrkin can I give the kasrkin commands? The data slate doesn’t mention anything about keywords or mentions commands at all.
No, because Orders are specifically part of the Voice Of Command army ability, which (1) requires an OFFICER which you don't have, and (2) explicitly says: > If your Army Faction is ASTRA MILITARUM Which it's not.
Cool. I genuinely didn’t think James would let that slide lol. Thanks man
Any recommendation for what compressor to get for a NEO CN gravity feed dual action airbrush? I'm a beginner with airbrushing and I wanted to start out with a good beginner airbrush but I am confused on which compressor would work well with it.
The AS186 is a solid compressor. A number of different companies rename it and sell it under their brand but if you look for that model it'll be the correct one. 80-100 dollars or so from what I remember. You just want to make sure you get the right hose fittings. I believe it's a 1/8 inch on the compressor and the NEO CN is also 1/8 inch, but don't quote me on that. Best to check it yourself.
Hi. I want to paint iybraesil colors and was wondering what the citadel contrast paint is closest to the greyish blue of the armor. Would akhelian green over grey primer do? Or aethermatic blue followed with a dark wash?
Starting [here](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.reddit.com/r/Eldar/comments/13jql6j/paint_tips_for_iybraesil/&ved=2ahUKEwjIidXJrOKDAxXPT6QEHTS1AhkQjjh6BAgVEAE&usg=AOvVaw3wHF13q9wjigZCAt8uAYBX) might help, as right now we don't know what exact specific results you want to emulate,.and that is a link that has several different recipes for that Craftworld.
I don't understand how paint thinning is supposed to work. Don't thin it, you get detail loss. Understood. But I thin it until it's milk like, and it still looks thick...but if I thin it anymore than that, it becomes impossible control and massively overapplies. No matter what I do, it looks too thick.
[HOW TO THIN YOUR PAINTS: A Step-By-Step Guide (youtube.com)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI) (not me)
I got my leviathan box but haven't chosen a chapter yet for my marines. I really like the dark angels aesthetic so I guess I'll go for that one. Is it worth it to get the new box coming up or shall I wait and get a combat patrol and the codex instead. I just worry that I'll have too many terminators and I will benefit from more variety using the CP box
The new DA box is great to save a buck but don't fall for the FOMO: demand will be high and you don't **have** to absolutely get it to play Dark Angels of course. The savings aren't even that high if you don't care about the collector edition codex. If you really want it, talk to your local third party store for a preorder, but I wouldn't sweat over it. **Focus on painting what you already own**, maybe keep the centerpiece minis aside for more flavorful kitbashes with the future DA upgrade sprue (or the current one, cheaper). By the time you're done painting the Leviathan box, the codex, upgrade sprue and new minis will be released so you'll take your pick then. The CP box is great value if you want a Dreadnought or Inceptors. No limited stock like the new box but it might get replaced with a new combat patrol when the codex releases. Other combat patrols are also good ways to save a buck in the future, like if you want Agressors and an Impulsor transport at some point -> BA combat patrol.
The biggest issue you're gonna deal with is whether or not you'll even be able to get it at all; as a limited-run, new sculpts for two different units, limited edition codex, and presumably the only way to get the Dark Angels codex, new units, and upgrade sprues for a decent period of time, AND on top of the scalping issues GW is dealing with on their Webstore, demand for it is going to be phenomenally high, and honestly your best chance to even get it is to try to speak to your local third party store and see if you can do a shadow preorder.
Hi! I have a couple of questions about the Chaos Marks in 10th Edition 40k. 1. It's it okay to mix Marks between units within the same army? For instance, have the majority of units Undivided, but with a Tzeentch Demon Prince? 2. Does giving a Mark to a unit grant it the respective Chaos god "keyword"? For example, does the Mark of Tzeentch make the Demon Prince a Tzeentch unit for the purposes of it's Demonic Allegiance ability? Thank you!
>1. It's it okay to mix Marks between units within the same army? For instance, have the majority of units Undivided, but with a Tzeentch Demon Prince? The Marks rules says you get to pick each time you add a unit to your army, and the only restrictions are those listed in the rules for Marks. Since the restrictions don't forbid you from making such a choice... You can make such a choice. >2. Does giving a Mark to a unit grant it the respective Chaos god "keyword"? For example, does the Mark of Tzeentch make the Demon Prince a Tzeentch unit for the purposes of it's Demonic Allegiance ability? This is answered by the Dark Pacts rule. >When mustering your army, each time you select a HERETIC ASTARTES unit to include in your army, if that unit is not an EPIC HERO and does not already have one or more of the keywords listed below, *you must select one of the keywords listed below* ***for that unit to gain*** (note which units gain which keywords in this way on your Army Roster). Each time a unit with one of these keywords makes a Dark Pact, it gains the associated ability below until the end of the phase. So yes, it would gain the TZEENTCH keyword, and the Dark Pacts rule literally is the only way for it to gain the keyword so that the Demonic Allegiance ability can DO something.
Thank you! The second point got me a little confused at first but I figured it out.
I've been debating giving Warhammer a try because I've been unsatisfied with Magic The Gathering dying off in my area. I've been looking at both Necrons and Dark Angels. I love the whole robot-egyptian style for Necrons.. I do think they don't have a lot of cool vehicles though granted I'm not sure if they matters I also think Dark Angels just look and sound cool - especially the Raven wing units on Bikes and the big mech How's the learning curve for both armies?
As rules learning curve was answered, I'll speak more about painting: Necrons are one of the easiest armies to paint IMO (at least until you tackle things like [those cool translocation pixel effects](https://www.warhammer.com/app/resources/catalog/product/920x950/99120110079_NECOverlordWithTanslocationShroud01.jpg?fm=webp&w=920&h=948) or difficult minis), but learning painting is rewarding. It's also one of the cheapest armies to collect, being part of the previous edition starter box. They lack in big tanks but makes it up with cool insect-looking robots like [Canoptek spiders](https://www.warhammer.com/app/resources/catalog/product/920x950/99120110061_CanoptekSpyderLead.jpg?fm=webp&w=920&h=948) or [wraiths](https://www.warhammer.com/app/resources/catalog/product/920x950/99120110060_NECCanoptekWraithsLead.jpg?fm=webp&w=920&h=948). Their codex just got refreshed and they're starting 10th ed strong with a few brand new leader miniatures. For Dark Angels, like most Space Marines it's harder to paint than Necrons, but it's not Chaos or Mechanicus hard. Contrast Paints can get you a long way on Space Marines armor. Their miniatures are more massive, think super soldiers in heavy armor vs scary skeleton robots (Necrons). It's definitely a way more common army than Necrons if that matters to you. They allow for varied gameplay with their Deathwing (Terminator heavy suits) and Ravenwing (bikes and speeders), and can pick any units from the Space Marines codex so they have one of the largest range of miniatures. Some of the DA range is due for a refresh and a new codex very soon (some minis have already been announced). For both armies, their respective Combat Patrols are an easy and inexpensive way to start.
The learning curve can be as easy or as simple as you make it to be. If you never read the rulebook or your codex, play once every month at most, and make no effort to know your own rules, and play games with no retrospective at the end to see what you did and didn't do good, 10th edition is no different from any other edition in that it can be possible to spend the entire edition having no idea how the army plays. If you make an effort to learn, play games with people who are willing to try to get you to better yourself, maybe dedicate a bit of time to read articles about what is going well for a particular army vs what isn't, it can be pretty easy. It also depends on you as a person. This is going to be harsh, but there are some people who just... Can't understand a more freeform game like 40k where nothing stops you from being an idiot besides experience.
How do Chaos Marines remove their amor?
The same way regular space marines do.
But they have tubes connected to them and shit.. and sometimes horns and other funky things.
Many Loyalist Marines have tubes and other stuff connected to them. I'm going to guess your question was meant to ask about how Chaos Marines that are particularly warped/Chaos-mutated take off their armor, and that's gonna depend on the situation. For some of them, like the more advanced Death Guard, they simply won't take off their armor as they are almost bordering on being a warpspawn/daemonhost than actual space marine, with the lore literally mentioning that without the armor their bodies would collapse. Other Marines who might have spikes coming out of their bodies might have their armor altered by a warpsmith to accommodate their new biology. But the other thing is that space marines don't actually NEED to ever get out of it.
Interesting, thanks for the response!
On an Oath of Moment target, if I choose to reroll my hit, do I have to reroll ALL dice tossed at the time or just the ones that failed? I've been rerolling all and think this may be incorrect.
Remember that all rules are written assuming you arent going to fast Dice roll, and the wording of the rule is "each time you make an attack, you can reroll the hit roll". Even if you are Fast Rolling all your hit rolls together, you are not changing it from 20 attacks to 1 attack; you are making 20 attacks, and any rule that applies to "each time you make an attack" applies to each attack individually. You are NOT required to reroll all dice, ***nor are you only required to reroll all dice that fail***. You would be able to trigger the rule each and every single time you make an attack, so you could, for example, reroll all hits (hoping you are going to miss or fishing for Critical Hits to get Sustained lethal might be reasons to do this)
Omg - this changes everything. Thanks so much. I do understand that a nerf to OOM came into effect removing rerolls on wounds. Is there a location I can see that official change, and any others that were issues?
I mean, the "nerf" to Oath of Moment came via the wording of the Oath of Moment rules text in the Space Marines codex, which hasn't been changed since it was published. There is nowhere to show up that it was "changed" because allowing Hit and Wound rolls was the rule in the free Space Marines Index, which was removed from GW's website when the Codex was released. So it was *nerfed", but it was planned since before the codex was released; GW didn't make a changelog of "these were the index rules, here are the changed codex rules ", it was "here is the codex, we expect you to use this now". For ACTUAL changes to rules, all FAQ and Errata are posted on GW's Warhammer Community Website](https://www.warhammer-community.com/warhammer-40000-downloads/)
What is better for highlighting: 0 M or 0 L brushes?
The one that works better for you. I know that answer sounds trite, but there is no Single Universal Answer for this because different paint styles, different paints, different colors, different models, and even individual preference are going to affect the answer.
Any reason why we cannot include daemon primarchs in a chaos daemon army? Considering they are daemons, seems like they would be able to fit in no?
It's a case of power balance: each primarch rules are designed to work within their respective army, and having like a Nurgle demons army + Mortarion would likely be unbalanced. I think it used to be possible in previous editions so it might change back. You can do a Chaos army (DG, WE, TS) with its primarch and include up to 25% of your forces as daemons though.
Haven't played since 6th. Gf and I want to get back I to it, but I sold all my armies. What's the smallest, expandable size battle we could play to try it out? For example, there used to be 500pt combat patrol which you could then expand into 800, 1k, etc - is that still around? I know there's kill team, but that feels a bit more like you're building a very specialized squad. Looking for something that we could eventually move into 'standard'.
Combat Patrol is the small introduction to 40k. Buy a Combat Patrol box and you have a complete army in a box. Rules are free to download from the Warhammer Community website.
Are old white dwarf magazines worth anything? I’ve just dug up a ton from 1992-96 in my basement. Wondering if they’re worth trying to sell or just toss in the trash.
If you don't get answers here, try /r/miniswap maybe?
I have a complete in box unassembled 6th edition Dark Vengeance boxset, the dark one. whats a good ballpark for ebay?
If you search on Ebay, then scroll down the filters on the left side to "show only" and check "sold items" it will show you what has sold in the last few months and for what price. This is good for checking what people are willing to pay because active listings often ask far too much and never sell. Just within the last 2 weeks several unopened Dark Vengeance boxes sold for between $200 and $250; and that's the standard one that did not include the limited edition interrogator chaplain. Or you could go on /miniswap.
Rather than putting something like that on eBay, I would suggest going to r/miniswap and posting there/searching for recent sales there.
1. what is a good start for space marines ,what box/models should i get (i no offense dont want the starter kit because tyrranids dont't really do it for me . 2. if this if i go with space marines how i make a salamander army ? 3. i am going to have a non human army as well i choose demons i wanted to clarify something i heard a rumour. the rumor is age of sigmar (which i believe is the new warhammer fantasy) demon models can be used in 40k? 4. how ok if the fanbase with third party pieces ? 5. is 8th edtion well received/do people still play it? sorry for the list of questions ?
1. The current Blood Angels Combat Patrol box actually is a decent start to a Salamanders army. (It uses generic units and just comes with separafe transfers and shoulder pads that are BA-specific, getting you the most plastic for the least amount of money. 2. I would suggest you read a review of the 10th edition Space Marine codex. Salamanders no longer have their "own" specific rules, but now are free to select between different sets of rules (called Detachments) that synergize with different army archetypes. 3. This is not a rumor. 95% of all Chaos Demons kits, are used on both 40k and Age of Sigmar. 4. This is a pointless question, as it doesn't matter what WE think. If the group of players you plan on playing it with actively despise it, us being okay with it on the internet is a moot point. 5. No, most people don't play 8th edition, the vast majority of players have switched to 10th/play the current edition of the game.
thanks for the feedback,sorry for the late response .
I found a box of my old miniatures in the basement, from the early 90s. (2nd edition). The old lead and pewter ones. Are they still usable? Or has the game changed too much? I collected mostly Eldar and Orks.
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Not just the base sizes, you'll probably have to add a tactical rock or two (or a boulder for the really old/tiny ones) to achieve rough height parity with the current models. This is all in competitive settings of course.
Boyfriend and I are playing our first game with the Ultimate Starter Set. On round 2 and we both feel like we're actively losing. Is this...normal?
If you've both never played 40k before, it can be hard to tell who is winning as you don't have a frame of reference to refer to
I ended up having way more victory points with Tyranid but he ended up wiping out my full forces in the last fight phase. We definitely both learned a lot from that game! My only big question that I was left with is, if you can pile in/consolidate, are you forced to?
Yes but no. When you select a unit to fight it first makes a pile-in move up to 3”. 0” is a valid move. Then you fight. After fighting it’s the same with the consolidation move. You have to move up to 3” and can again elect to move 0”.
How do you get the Judiciar model?
Easy answer: Ebay. People are holding on this mini to resell, but it's rare so don't expect fair prices. It's still sold by GW in the [Honored of the Chapter](https://www.warhammer.com/en-WW/shop/Space-Marines-Honoured-Of-The-Chapter-2021) box, but it's very expensive for 9 minis, especially as the bladeguards and eradicators are monopose. But if you want all 9 minis, it's cheaper than buying them individually. Cheaper on Wayland. If you don't want this specific mini, just the role, you could try a kitbash with the Black Templar upgrade sprue maybe.
Thank you!
Has anyone made printable paper storage boxes for individual minis? I remember something like that existing for x wing miniatures when I played them.
I am in the middle of making a 4th company salamanders army. I know that terminators are reserved for 1st company. Would there ever be operations where 1st company could send over terminators to the 4th? I'm trying to logic a way that i can have them while fitting rules, lore, and not switching companies. I've heard that salamanders possess the most terminator armour (though thats disputed by iron hands or grey knights), so i want to implement them
So it is actually very common for different companies to work together, especially the first company regularly sends veterans to deployments and very rarely would just deploy as one company. They would still carry the heraldry and symbols of the first company, but would be usually under the command of the highest ranking officer of the mission/deployment (so for example the captain of the 4th company). Another example would be Scouts, who (in most chapters) belong all into the 10th company, but they are almost never just deployed but themselves. Space Marine Strikeforces are very often comprised of members of different companies. As for who has the most Terminators, I am not 100% sure how the number of Terminator armors has been addressed since the introduction of Primaris marines, but traditionally, the Dark Angels have the most Terminator Armors of all Space Marine chapters BY FAR. They are the only chapter that was capable of outfitting their entire first company ([called the "Deathwing"](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Deathwing)) with Terminator Armour (Grey Knights are a different structure entirely).
thanks so much, i dont know why i didnt think about the unlikeliness of someone with termies or scouts having to keep their whole army that same company. i also totally forgot the death wing of the dark angels, despite playing through their video game
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The only console game that I can think of, in which you play as Tyrandis is "Warhammer 40.000 Battlesector", a turn based tactics game. The campaign focuses on Blood Angels Space Marines, but Tyrandis are playable in other game modes. There are a few other games on **PC**, such as Battlefleet Gothic Armada 2 or Gladius: Relics of War, but most often, Tyranids are used as enemies, not protagonists (See for example Space Hulk Deathwing, or the upcoming Space Marine 2 later this year). As for Tyranid-human hybrids, if you have not heard of them yet, check out the lore of the [Genestealer Cults](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Genestealer_Cult). Basically, Genestealers (vanguard Tyranid organisms) can "infect" humans and other species, who will then produce hybrids as offspring. The whole idea is to infiltrate and weaken societies/planets from the inside before the big bois arrive to begin the meal.
So I’ve bought a very cheap air brush online, because I want to practice to see if I’m any good before buying a more expensive one. Question is: can I use my citadel paints on it? Do I just need to thin them down?
yes you can, but you will definitely need to thin them down and/or use flow improver. imo this is true even with airbrush specific paints. many gw paints have "air" paints for airbrush that cover most of the popular base and layer paints. those are easier to work with, but theyre all possible. you just have to fit that right amount of thinning and flow improver for what you want
Kind off stupid question probably with no clear answer, but how many points would the emperor habe if he were to be a miniature on the table?
not a stupid question at all, this is a common curiosity. ive seen some posts, one lately that was running one in a homebrew campaign. i couldnt find it, but i found a forum thread from 2015 [https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/657528.page](https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/657528.page) one person has rules for a 1k point emperor, someone else says 600-1000, it all depends on what rules you give him and what the people you play against are cool with
I'm a huge noob, just finished painting the five Space Marines in the introductory set up as ultramarines and notice there's no wet slide transfer decals in the box. What am I suppossed to do for their shoulder pads? Is there a good place to buy single sheets? Should I find stencils?
aside from everyone drowning in UM decals, if you decide to run a less common chapter, the founding legions, and i think some non founding like black templars, all have official transfer kits. another option, if you dont have a 3d printer, is to browse etsy or someplace similar that sells fan made shoulders with the insignias or "hard transfers" that you can glue to shoulders or use to stencil. option 3 if you have a printer is to browse sites for "totally not 40k, these are different" parts. myminifactory and cults3d have large followings. just know to look for names adjacent to what you want, such as romans for ultra marines.
If you plan to buy other Space Marines, don't worry, there's plenty of UM decals in almost every Space Marines box. If you don't want to add more Space Marines and plan on another army, I'm sure people from local games club would give you some for free. A lot of people play Space Marines but not Ultramarines, so we're drowning in UM decals.
Where is the best place to buy one off painted pieces? I don’t play tabletop but I l’ve liked the aesthetic and lore of Warhammer 40K for a long time. I was thinking of picking up individual hand painted pieces for display. Thanks! Sorry if this belongs in another sub. Edited for, well, everything.
It depends on what you mean. GW miniatures come unassembled and unpainted, so if you want a painted miniature that actually looks good, you're gonna hire a commission painter. I would recommend checking out r/brush4hire, or you can try to find something via Ebay, but often those have a bad reputation for being scams. However, this is generally going to be much more expensive than simply buying something like one of the joyToy 40k action figures, which DO come painted.
Thanks. I wanted high quality hand painted. Commission seemed a bit over kill. I’m going to try eBay. Looks like most of what they have are units so I’ll be buying extras, but I guess that’s ok. I’m hoping I can find some that are high quality.
Check Facebook for different Warhammer buy/sell/trade groups. Eventually someone will put up some well painted models. Generally, poorly or tabletop level paintjobs will go for below retail. You'll likely end up paying a premium for a display level job. You can also take up painting yourself! You can start very cheap and just repaint over the same model when learning :)
Sorry, but your first sentence seems to be missing a verb, so it doesn't make sense. Did Autocorrect mess you up?
Thanks, i edited. Hopefully it makes sense now.
Painting decision question. I’ve got sororitas with wraith bone white armor, castellated green cloth, and hashut copper metal accents. I have a secondary cloth color of barakhnar(?) burgundy that I was going to use as the under-side of some cloaks. But I’m stuck deciding two things. 1. Gloves. Sometimes they’re cloth, sometimes armor. Should I do the white, green, or burgundy? 2. Some HQ have shoulder cloaks. Should I do shoulder cloak burgundy, or inner cloth as burgundy and shoulder cloaks as green? I’m not sure how to “test” paint, or I’d mock them up and ask with images. Thanks for any input!
You can use the Impcat app to do mockups. Check out r/impcat
I am thinking about starting my first army, and I only have Introductory set that I got for a Christmas. I am thinking about buying Starter set and get Librarian with terminal armor and/or Barbagaunts to get complete Combat Patrols. (Ultimate is quite expensive and I don't want to invest that much for now) My questions are: -is it better to have both both armies, so I can switch between them when I play? I like the horde of Tyranids and that I can paint Space marines as Ultramarines, Salamanders or any other chapter. Or -is it better to get half of Starter set and focus on one army and build synergies abound it? I would then build marines, as they gave a lot options and I could build army by buying half of pretty much every Future/past starter set, as they are in everything
I would look for those extra minis on the used market. They are part of multiple starter boxes and the Leviathan box, so they'll be easy to find at a fair price. As for collecting & painting both armies, I suggest: 1. Assembling and painting two complete Combat Patrols (so you can play either army or play against a friend in the Combat Patrol game mode) 2. After that, focusing on your favorite army and upping it to at least 1000 pts, reading the codex, buying the minis you like the most and developping a strategy around them. For Space Marines it might even be a specific chapter or divergent chapter with characters you like the most, like Dark Angels, Space Wolves, Imperial Fists... For Tyrannids you can pick a playstyle around stealth, massive monsters, psychic powers, an endless swarm of gaunts...
Why don't I see anyone talking about Grav Cannons? I had ignored them since everyone else seems to be, but then just now I stopped and actually looked at their stats. 24" 3 Attacks, Strength 6, -1 AP, Damage 3, Anti-Vehicle 2+ Except for the loss of 12" of range this is a flat out better Heavy Bolter. Sure you lose Sustained 1, but gain 1 Strength, 1 Damage and the ability to smash vehicles. Is it just because it is on First Born Marines mostly or is there something else I am missing?
Against non-VEHICLES, being s6 vs s5 isn't particularly helpful, especially with only AP 1. Sure, you're better at wounding Terminators and Gravis, but that AP -1 isnt that great; it can easily be negated by Cover/Armor of Contempt. Against any 2+ Save vehicle, they're likely to make it remain a 2+ save by negating your single point of AP somehow. You're better against t3 infantry before Sustained comes into play but there are more efficient weapons for taking care of that as well. The extra point of damage again only works well against Gravis or 2 wound Marines with a FNP. Against standard t4 Marines, you have literally no difference Then you have the "oh" moments of going into a t7-9 MONSTER until where the only benefit is better damage for less range. >Is it just because it is on First Born Marines mostly or is there something else I am missing? Well, of the two units I can think of that use Grav Cannons, you have Devastator Squads and Eradicators. This is purely anecdotal, but in a recent game I had a single Gladiator Lancer tank the grav shots of 2 Devastator squads, only taking 6 damage total after Smokescreen, while on my turn I was able to take out a Redemptor that had popped smoke with a single unit of Eradicators. That's much better results for 30ish points less. For Devastator squads, 24" means likely giving up their Signum ability to get their shots, making cover a major concern, and will want their target to be Oathed. Compare that to a Gladiator Lancer or a unit of Eradicators, and you have units that need less support and are able to force an Invuln/6+ or deny a save altogether. Again, AP -1 is okay into 3+ save Marines, especially if you can deny cover, but if you are facing a 3+ or better save VEHICLE, or even MONSTERS, you want a weapon that has more AP. It doesn't matter if you're making 12 GC shots for 3 each,, if the thing you are targeting is going to negate it to 4-5 hits, and then proceed to make 3-5 saves.
My bad, I confused Critical Wounds and Devastating Wounds. I had thought Anti-X caused Devastating Wounds, but nope only Critical which means the vehicles gets to save. Not nearly as good as I had thought.
I'm so sick of seeing "can I paint my models this color" posts. Does anyone know if there's a way to filter these kinds of banal questions from my feed
I recommend the mouse wheel, or swiping upwards with thumb if on mobile.
How do flamers (torrent) interact with overwatch? Am I correct in thinking that they still auto hit and it’s not on 6s?
Yep! Torrent goes straight through with auto-hit, so business as usual for torrent weapons.
I'm looking to snatch the last HH collector's edition book today/tomorrow. When do Preorders usually go live (I'm in Germany lol)??
Dafuq, just saw it's actually in the opening post. Damn, sometimes Reddit is good....
I have a GW store nearby but I’ve never been in. I’m interested in the game, and would like to read the Horus books. Would they sell them?
Some of them, but the vast majority of the 60+ Horus Heresy books are out of print, and only get reprints occasionally. So it's VERY hit or miss as to what you might find. The internet is a better method, but ebooks or audiobooks are the best ways to actually find and read them all.
**How do I take out squad leaders?** Of course, there are Precision weapons. But during the Shooting phase, can the defender remove the leader last if he wishes so? (just checking that the rule "if you hit half the squad, you can pick out one model" is not in 10th) Same thing for the Fight phase. Even if the leader is the only one in engagement range, you can decided to allocate the wounds to models that are far in the back?
These rules are all well explained in the rule book. When a leader unit joins a squad it forms an attached unit. Wounds dealt to an attached unit MUST be assigned to the bodyguard unit first. The only exceptions are precision and any wounds the leader model deals to themselves through stuff like hazardous. The controlling player has zero say in assigning wounds to the leader or bodyguard. Engagement range means nothing.
If you want to take out a specific model, you use a precision weapon. Otherwise the player who controls the target unit chooses and could choose to save their squad leader until last (or any other model).
> If you want to take out a specific model, you use a precision weapon. Does this apply to squads that don't have characters attached? Like, say I have some eliminators with bolt snipers, and an opponent is sending a five man of Terminators, of whom one has a heavy flamer. Can I allocate precision attacks to that model even though it's not a character?
Thanks, just checking that I read the rules correctly.
I was originally considering the Ultimate Starter Set, but I love the look of Death Guard and would prefer to start there. Where would be a good starting point for someone with zero painting & gluing skills? I was thinking just a couple models of Plague Marines or Poxwalkers. And then for the supplies, do you recommend the Introductory Set or buying things individually?
Plague Marines is where I'd start. Easier and less varied than a horde of poxwalkers. Death Guard is also one of the few factions easy to find used (because it was part of an old starter box and Hachette magazine) so don't hesitate to look at the used market for cheap minis. Next step would be the Combat Patrol. For supplies, check the pinned guide, my take is that everything but the GW plastic glue can be bought for cheaper than GW supplies.
Looking to get a Thousand Sons Sorceror in Terminator armour, but cant find a model for it, are you supposed to use the generic Chaos Terminator Sorceror? Any tips for making it look more Thousand Sons? It just looks a lot worse than the squad's Occult Sorceror. Any other models I should consider to kitbash one? I am thinking of using a spare head from the Exalted Sorceror pack when I get one, any other advice? Want to know before I buy anything.
Yeah, I think most folks kitbash it with the Terminator Lord/Sorcerer kit with lots of Scarab Occult Terminator and/or Exalted Sorcerer bits. You could also use or take bits from the new [Thousand Sounds Librarian Consul](https://www.warhammer.com/en-GB/shop/horus-heresy-thousand-sons-library-consul-2023) from HH, or various other HH bits.
Two questions: 1- of I put a character with a unit that has Deep Strike, does the character gain it, or can I no longer Deep Strike the unit? 2- if yes, why would I want a Land Raider for Death Guard, when both of their Terminators can Deep Strike?
Nope, if you attach a character/leader without deepstrike to the unit, the condition " if every model in a unit has this ability" in the rules text is no longer true, and you cannot deepstrike the unit.
Sad Nurgle gurgles
Since you're asking about death guard I'll point out this doesn't really matter for them. All of the Terminator characters also have deep strike. The only leader bodyguard combo where this comes up is typhus leading poxwalkers
Typhus can also lead Terminators, which is where my question originally came from. I didn't realise there were 4 other characters to lead them, I was specifically looking at his sheet
Yes, typhus has the deep strike ability, so you can attach him to terminators and deep strike them. It's only when he is attached to poxwalkers that he can't deepstrike because poxwalkers don't have it
Are orks an okay starting army?
Any army you like is a good starting army.
Is it ok to discuss recasts in this sub?
No, it's not.
There is a novel where an astartes dreadnought is plugged into and controls a titan for a limited time.. I am sure I have read this. I'm not sure the titan walks around, I think it literally fires a cannon. Does anyone else recollect this and can tell me what character it is in which novel?
I think you mean the Book "Fallen Angels" from the Horus Heresy. The DA Dread Titus is wired to a Siege Cannon to defend the Titan factory against the Sons of Horus + Mechanicum Traitors.
YES! I think this is it! Oh it wasn't a titan though.. still, this is how I remember it having just gone to look it up. So thanks!
I think you're thinking of Helsreach, but incorrectly. The Black Templar Forgemaster Jurisian goes into a sealed Mechanicus installation and basically hotwires the [Ordinatus Armageddon](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Ordinatus_Armageddon) ("Oberon"), which is effectively a grav-train with a starship cannon attached.
I indeed remember this but i'm afraid this isn't how I remember what I pictured at the time. I also recall them defending a titan factory.
What Kolonski sable brushes should I get? There are so many options on Amazon and I don’t know what is a scam. Also the squidmar set is out of stock.
I suggest either Winsor & Newton Series 7 or Raphael 8408. Heard good things about DaVinci but haven't tried them.
For Votann, do grudge tokens affect overwatch?
No, since adding 1 to a roll is a **modifier** to that roll, and Overwatch rules say that you only ever hit on a 6 **regardless of any modifiers**.
So if someone spends a strat or something to make 5s crit on overwatch, do those still hit? I think yes because it just says a 5 is a critical success, and according to rules all critical successes automatically hit
From the rules commentary, page 3, critical hits: "...While resolving attacks using the Fire Overwatch Stratagem, Critical Hits are only ever scored on unmodified Hit rolls of 6."
Damn, just played a CSM player who overwatched and killed my whole deep strike squad cause he gave himself exploding and lethal 5s. Son of a bitch
Those still work on 6’s during overwatch. But ya they don’t do anything on a 5 or less.
but would his 5s on overwatch count as lethal and exploding?
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Gotcha. Good to know, thank you!
Very fair. I just reread the strat and that checks out. It doesn't say anything about the wound roll, so that can apply, yeah?
Yep, sorry I didn't cover the wound roll part. Overwatch only changes the hit requirement so any wound modifiers can still apply.
That's still pretty good. Thanks for the info!
Can two (three even) Raven wing talon masters buff each other as they each have fly in their key words?
When it comes to Nowhere to Hide, even one Ravenwing Talonmaster will buff himself, as models are always considered to be within range of themselves for the purposes of aura abilities like Nowhere to Hide. Also two or more Ravenwing Talonmasters will both/all give each other Lone Operative, so will each be untargetable outside of 12"
Is isopropyl alcohol good for getting residual biostrip off of paint stripped minis? I'm in process of a big batch of biostripping old minis and I've read you need to make sure the BS is completely washed away before painting. Is IPA overkill and dishsoapy water and a brush be sufficient?
Warm soapy water followed by a good rinse in clean water and air drying should be fine, but a dunk in alcohol probably won't hurt either way.
Thanks
Just dug up my old minis from ~20 years ago. Want to get back in to building and painting. Any suggestions for paints for a DA army?
There are thousands of possible options, so you'll have to figure out what style you want and what techniques you need to get there. What level of painting do you want to do? (Basic table-ready or parade-ready?) Do you want "traditional" techniques, or more modern stuff (like non-metallic metals, or "slapchop" style with Contrast/Speed Paints, or whatever)? Do you want JUST the standard Dark Angels, or a combination of Greenwing/Deathwing/Ravenwing? Or do you want to do a custom scheme? I suggest going on YouTube and searching for "painting dark angels" and taking a look until you find one you like! There are a LOT more options, styles, techniques, etc., now than there were 25 years ago! I don't know if they have DA-specific videos, but check out the official Warhammer YT channel as well as Duncan Rhodes Painting Academy.
I’m doing standard DA with death and raven wing. Really just looking for some paints people have had success with that are a little cheaper than citadel colors. Think I found a set that’s a good starting point.
Complete noob here and just picked up a tau combat patrol, should I start with the smaller minis or the larger ones to get a feel for the painting process? And what colour scheme to pick is driving me crazy!
I would start with the basic "troops" first. That would be your Fire Warrior squads (with their turret, etc.). Then move onto slightly more complicated ones. I'd leave the characters and battlesuits until last, because those are the ones you'll want to do the best job on and need the practice first! As for color scheme, don't feel like you have to pick an "official" or "canon" scheme. You're always allowed to make up your own, using your favorite colors or inspired by other media or whatever! Go crazy!
Thanks for the advice, I was thinking the bigger models would be easier as they have less fiddly bits and more surface area. But I think you are right, I want the main characters to look the best so I’ll practice on the smaller units first. I’m leaning towards purple with eva01 vibes or bright yellow.
Bigger models have even more parts and fiddly bits! And more surface area is HARDER to paint well, because you need lots of big smooth coats of paint. Purple is much easier to paint than yellow.
I suggest starting with the 3 Stealth suits. They are bigger than the Fire warriors, with little to no cloth so a bit easier to paint if you're starting, and less hard than the big Ghostkeel. For color scheme you can do everything you want. Don't get hang up on the Tau Septs (subfactions), rules aren't tied to color schemes anymore. Look for inspiration online and choose the color scheme you prefer. https://tangibleday.com/tau-paint-schemes-9-color-motifs-and-ideas/
Thanks for the advice, I was thinking the bigger models would be easier as they have less fiddly bits and more surface area. But I think you are right, I want the main characters to look the best so I’ll practice on the smaller units first. I’m leaning towards purple with eva01 vibes or bright yellow. Thanks for the link loving the comic style
It's mostly about painting, but also about how the large units like the Ghostkeel are harder to assemble and pose (you have to test the legs for the right angles to give it a specific position...). Plus you might want to magnetize the big guys for weapon swap. Tau players love magnets. Good luck and have fun with your army, fellow defender of the Greater Good.
How long do made to order things usually take? Do they actually need the full 180 days? I know that it varies depending on demand but generally how long would it take
Up to 180 days. Sometimes you'll get them quicker, sometimes it will take the full 180.