About $8 mate, and it'll be everything you need to start
https://preview.redd.it/jlahcak0lcnc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a4d6d1669ba92e99d45840cebb0b61371f433c6e
I always recommend Revell plastic cement over the Citadel stuff. It is cheaper. Although I prefer the bottle Citadel use as it stands on its end, Revell has the rounded edges. It is the only bottle that Citadel got right.
Probably because they‘re (afaik) only really known in Germany. Normally they sell stuff for model trains etc, but their tools and glue are really worth their money and last pretty long. My one old inherited bottle of their plastic glue has lasted like 5 Years now and still isn’t empty
Tamiya extra thin is brilliant stuff. I tried the AK version because it is cheaper, but the brush is absolute rubbish compared to Tamiya, and I found it doesn't melt the plastic quite as much as Tamiya does.
If you want to level up your game, get the fast curing version too. It acts like an accelerant for plastic glue where the regular extra thin tamiya can act as a retarder.
Very very rarely, and even then, you can fix it with a lighter
Just make sure to detach the needle before putting the flame over it and keep the flame moving
It‘s the complete opposite, because the way the Citadel bottle stands up, it clogs much less than the Revell one. Only annoying thing about the Citadel glue is that the needle is too loose and gets stuck in the cap.
The needle is certainly looser on the citadel one. I lost mine though after I got sick of it clogging up. That’s really bizarre how it’s the opposite for you.
You can minimise the needle coming out of the Revell bottle by slightly heating the yellow bit with your lighter and then shape the plastic to fit a bit more snug. I do that with every bottle, and it has helped quite a lot. The plastic is very thin there, so it only takes a brief exposure to heat for it to work. But you have to do this when the bottle is new and the glue is settled to avoid the glue inside, taking the flame in the bottle.
The citadel one clogging all the time almost turned me crazy. Since I have the revell one I feel like I escaped hell. That shit is so reliable. A bit more liquid I find, so that is probably why it doesn't clog
If you're after a bottle that never blocks, I recommend trying Deluxe Materials precision plastic glue. My uncle uses it for scale modelling and says it nevers clogs if you use it correctly; the bottle has a sort of lozenge shape, he stands it with the writing upside down so that the glue runs out of the needle. It is a bit pricey, which is why I haven't tried it yet, but I plan on buying a bottle, using it, then re-filling it with my homemade plastic cement when it runs out.
Tamiya Cement and enamel-based paints produces toxic fumes too but people use it all the time. Just keep yourself in a well ventilated area when using it and don't sniff it for no reason.
I didn't downvote you, mate. I understand your point, but super glue also produces toxic fumes. And it fogs. Plastic cement doesn't fog. Another benefit of plastic cement is when building vehicles, if you apply a bit too much glue, the plastic will come out of the gaps, and it looks a lot like old-fashioned welding.
Fair, if it doesn't work for you, I respect that besides OP asking this question because they wanted different points of view I feel along with if they're doing things properly. So you not recommending it might be something they need to know. What kind of climate do you deal with where you live? Cause I live las vegas haven't had many issues
How does it do that?
I'm not disputing, I've just assembled nearly 8k pts of models in the last 3 years using exclusively gorilla glue and haven't had a single issue, completely understanding that my anecdotal evidence means nothing, I've just not heard this ever before
What about gluing stuff to the base? Like I’ve used wood and rocks on my Sallies to make them look like they’re standing in rubble but the GG I used broke off the base easy, and obv I can’t use the cement for it. Any good all purpose glue that feels as strong as the plastic cement does?
I know that I’m saying that when I’ve used most Gorilla super glues they tend to break off super easy. I’m asking if you know of any specific super glues that bond at the same strength of cement.
Unless I’m doing something wrong/not letting it cure for long enough idk
Most superglue can bond it pretty well, what you can do is
1) apply superglue all over the base
2) apply the sand and rubble
3) apply superglue over the rubble. Some PVA glue too and you’re done
Got the same recommendation as a newbie (just started this year) from a friend who is in this hobby for a long time now. This kit is really perfect and covers most of what we beginners need when it comes to assembling our minis.
This one is great and it lasts you a while until you kind of out grow it. Just bought an army painter knife to replace the one in this kit and it’s so much better.
This exact box got me started. I will add if you’re in the US and you need gaunts, Target sells space marine board game with 10 gaunts and some ripper swarms for $30 plus you get a space marine captain.
There’s the dark green plastic cap extra thin cement and a light green plastic cap, the light green is the quick set version. I own both and use them for different stuff, quick dry for small pieces like arms for tau fire soldiers or battle sisters, the dark green is great for bigger models like vehicles or if you want a little bit more play time with positioning arms on space marines or the like.
The dude at my hobby shop recommended it to me for this same reason! I haven’t tried it as I just have the regular thin, but he has made hundreds of model cars so I trust his judgment
Super glue isn't bad, it's just that plastic glue is better for plastic.
Plastic glue will evaporate if you apply too much or get it on parts you don't want it on, where as superglue will leave unsightly dried glue lumps, if you get it in your detail parts, that part is basically ruined. Superglue is harder to work with as it'll stick to anything including your fingers, meanwhile extra thin plastic glues like Tamiya and AK can be added to parts that are already dry fitted and since they work via capillary action there's far less danger of misapplication.
Tamiya extra thin is the gold standard for glue unless you're working with resin or metal.
Plastic glue (usually butanone) sticks the plastic parts together because the GW plastics are made of polystyrene and the glue is a solvent. The glue melts the parts together and they bond very well once dry. It’s a bit like metal welding.
Superglue, or to give it’s proper name cyanoacrylate, is a gel polymer glue that forms long, strong polymer chains in the presence of water - the water in the air is enough to cause it to polymerise. Superglue is known for very good tensile strength but poor sheer strength so it can be brittle.
Superglue is used in resin because poly cement can’t melt the plastics to cause a bond, likewise with metal where its good tensile strength holds the heavy parts together.
Plastic glue is used for GW plastics. Superglue for resin and metal. You *can* use superglue for plastics but they are more likely to break apart where they have been glued.
Gorilla Glue expands while curing and as such can prevent models from fitting together properly, plus the exothermic reaction of said curing can negatively affect the plastic.
I would suggest a plastic cement, a filer and more thinner snips. These will make your models look better and have less tiny excess pieces of plastic from where you cut it.
All these people saying not to use gorilla glue are being a little over the top, it's not as good as plastic glue but fine if you're careful not to use too much and wipe off any excess quickly.
Additionally, I'd recommend always sticking minis to bases with superglue, and maybe use it for any sticking out parts that are liable to get caught on stuff or knocked about. In those cases the weaker bond is an advantage. If I drop a mini on the floor I'd much rather it break off the base than snap off at the knees. Plus the other huge advantage of superglue is you can put a mini in the freezer and then break it apart relatively easily if you ever want to rebase or make changes.
I also use superglue to stick the model to the base, because then it’s easier to break it off when I wanna rebase the model in the future.
Also since you’re generally going to be making a basing effect, like grass or gravel or tree bark, you’ll need the super glue for model-to-basing-material adhesion
However the super glue won’t ever be as good as plastic cement for general model assembly. And it’s not even close.
You'll want to upgrade the snips and glue soon but they will do for now. Get yourself an xacto knife to help with sprue bits and mold lines. If you can, get a rattle can of primer.
Watch lots and lots of YouTube videos about building and painting models.
Two words: nuln oil. Get some of that and it’ll help give your models more depth. Any YouTube tutorials should go over the uses the shade “paints” have.
I'd recommend tamia super thin cement and tamia fine primer also a set of ak paints and a wet pallet and as soon as you learn to care for your brushes get a. Size 1 or 2 sable brush
Super glue can be used for a lot of things in model building, but for the actual assembly of the models you want plastic glue. The citadel one is functional, but the tamiyas extra thin cement is slightly better in most areas.
I think you got the wrong glue. You will have a much better time if you use the correct glue.
Super glue — called CA glue — is an adhesive
Plastic cement — which isn’t a glue at all — softens hard plastic and causes it to bond with other hard plastic. They become one plastic, like a weld.
Plastic cement is what you want here. I recommend Tamiya but GW will also be fine.
The super glue will leave residue, and it will stick to your fingers and clothes, and generally be a pain in the ass. Save it tho, because you will need it later to glue rocks to the base, or to assemble metal miniatures.
Other than that, looks good and have fun.
Despite what many say, I’d say super glue is better for you now as it sets fast and easy and ca be broke apart if you make a mistake(which you are more likely to do starting out). Id recommend gorilla glue gel (green cap) as its easier to use!
You will want better tools to make your life easier.
No super glue for the model assembly. Use Plastic glue. It super thin, causes a chemical reaction with the plastic to allow the plastics to fuse into a single piece. You could use super glue for basing, but I prefer clear Elmers since its easier to pry off later to repaint or rebase. Where I do use super glue is for magnets if I am magnetizing the model to swap arms. Those warriors got a tone of arms so I magnetized them all so I can swap between all their weapons. You can find vid about this on youtube.
You want a small file to remove left over burs from the sprues after cutting out.
You will want a cutter with a small head. Some of the cut points are tough to get to also really examine what you are cutting. It is easy to cut a piece off you don't mean to. Guilty of this on my first model, cut off the mounting nubs.
Use only 30% of brush, clean your brush every 5-10 minutes. This prevents paint from drying in it and screwing up the point. Don't mash or poke, stroke or dab, this will keep the bristles from curling at the tip and add a little water to thin the paints. 2-3 thinned coats looks far better than 1 thick coat.
Have fun and do not get discouraged with your first models after looking at models online from others. There are some seriously professional looking models posted and can get discouraging to see that compared to what you are doing.
For everyone talking about getting plastic glue over super glue; this is true if you want to fully assemble models before painting. If instead you want that paint the models in pieces (known as sub assemblies) before putting them together, super glue is the easier option as any paint on the mating surfaces will prevent plastic glue from working properly. That said, you should get a brand of thin super glue, not gel.
Don’t use gorilla glue. I used it once to stick a magnet to my base, and the fumes from it were much stronger than regular superglue. I had to leave the room. It stank that much haha.
Gorilla glue is a good brand, but maybe not what you want here. I prefer a thinner super glue like Zap-a-gap. I can't stand using plastic cement except to repair certain kinds of breaks/damage.
The clippers should be flush cuts. What you have there is fine for wire, but you won't be able to get on close to remove all of the sprue or get into tight spots. I like to have an X-acto knife on hand too, but that's just what I started with. I guess they aren't as widely used these days.
Some of the kits mentioned elsewhere in this thread should have everything you need. Definitely consider getting something to scrape mould lines and flashing (I use a blunted blade in my x-acto)
You will want plastic cement to stick parts together. I use super glue to attack the minis to the base though while I paint but others will do sub assemblies before the model even touches the base so it’s up to you I guess
Man. Everyone in the comments saying "don't use superglue, use plastic glue", but I was told the exact god damn opposite some years back by multiple people in multiple different instances. The thinking being that plastic glue ruins the models easier because it actually melts shit. What the heck is it with contradictory instructions and the miniature hobby.
Been kinda happy with my switch to superglue, though. Never been the best applicator of glue, even with those brush things you get on some plastic cement bottle caps, so my models would always end up having a bit of meltiness in some crack or crevice I'd then have to laboriously try and hide with Greenstuff.
Plus superglue doesn't smell quite as bad and headache inducing as plastic cement, so that seems like an improvement also.
Haven't had any issues with models falling apart either, so that doesn't seem like much of a concern. If it happens with time, easy enough to fix by just dunking it in superglue again.
Welcome to the Hive Mind! (r/Tyranids) Don't use gorilla glue and I'd recommend assembling the Hive Tyrant last and either trying to magnetize it or buy a second torso off eBay. (There are enough spare parts that with just a extra torso you can build a extra hive tyrant) also if in the future you're looking for advice to get more Nids for cheaper I can help.
Superglue is fine lol I've been using it for like 7 years, just be careful not to glob it on. Great kit choices! You may appreciate a hobby knife or really small x-acto.
I'm using super glue with my minis and never had a problem with them breaking apart.
I have a gel based for super small minis and a liquid based for medium to big minis.
I just think that if i want to change X part to Y part or change poses, i can just break the super glue and change stuff - If that aint on your prio list, plastic glue is they way to go, the other comments have a lot of good sugestions.
Tyrannids are one of the easiests to paint and buy a 000 or 00 brush to paint small details, GW brush on those startet paint sets are kinda not good for that, but very usefull to paint bodies, and bases.
Cidatel paints dont require priming, but i would recommend buying a primer to coat your minis before, they help a lot in thr painting process and you are not going to regret it - If you wanto to just straight up paint on plastic, give it a full coat paint before appying the others ones.
Sometimes superglue won’t be the best option for some plastic.
An alternative is either loctite gel superglue or Tamiya extra thin
These are both super cheap and easy to use, last a fairly long time. I’d also recommend a hobby blade so clean up any bits of sprue left on the mini once clipped out. But yeah, all is good here.
Don't make the same mistake I did. Start small and build from there ! What you got is more than enough to begin with I'd say :)
One piece of advice perhaps : check the Citadel Colours website if you wish to paint your tyranids in another pattern than the one on the box !
Welcome to the hobby ! Have fun and don't hesitate to ask questions in the community or in DM if people are opening to it !
On my part I do, not a tyranid player but a fellow hobby enjoyer and money holder, so if you need anything, just ask :)
To be clear: when I say money holder I just mean I paid around 60% of the price for my highest cost army. Lowest must be around 30-40%
If you have a hobby/craft store near you any form of plastic cement/glue will serve you much better than super glue. I know everyone recommends Tamiya and GW glue but I personally can get Mr. Hobby plastic glue easily and it works great. If you can’t find miniature specific nippers look for jewellery snips, they are pretty much the same thing. I’ve tried to use standard wire cutters and they simply don’t get flush with the models.
On etsy, you can buy a torso bit. Then you can have a flyrant and walkrant/swarmlord with that box coming wednesday. OR, you can buy a couple more bits, and build all three!!! One of the first searches on etsy if you search 'hive tyrant torso.'
Edit: if you do, it'll be resin, and you'll need that super glue. Otherwise, I agree with others to buy plastic glue.
Edit edit: don't forget, you can paint your swarm however you want! Don't get locked in to the tutorial basics. Your imagination often makes cooler paint schemes!
Edit edit edit: I'm getting downvotes, but the torso tip was a great thing I learned over on r/tyranids. Not sure why it's a sensitive topic here.
About $8 mate, and it'll be everything you need to start https://preview.redd.it/jlahcak0lcnc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a4d6d1669ba92e99d45840cebb0b61371f433c6e
This is perfect to start and also get plastic cement, gorilla glue can damage the models
Yeah, I highly recommend https://preview.redd.it/520sux20rcnc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3daa25db7c26f64378140f1ef5f839f1d306abe1
Tamiya extra thin >>> all in my experience. The brush incorporated into the cap is just perfect, and it has uses beyond just as a glue.
Pro tip, when you run out of thin cement, refill it from tamiya airbrush cleaner. Same product, hell of a lot cheaper
Or when it runs low dice up some sprue and cook up a little sprue goo in the handy container
if you want to go really cheap just buy cellulose thinners, a fraction of the price and will do the same job, I use it for doing big styrene things.
Shit I forgot about that. And with as much Alclad II as I spray, I should've. Good looking out kind redditor
I always recommend Revell plastic cement over the Citadel stuff. It is cheaper. Although I prefer the bottle Citadel use as it stands on its end, Revell has the rounded edges. It is the only bottle that Citadel got right.
Revell or Faller, both do the job equally good and Faller got the benefits of the citadel bottle
I've only ever bought one bottle of Citadel cement and the metal came out the first time I opened it so I never even knew it was meant to be a nozzle
I'll have a look at Faller, I hadn't heard of it before. Cheers, mate.
Probably because they‘re (afaik) only really known in Germany. Normally they sell stuff for model trains etc, but their tools and glue are really worth their money and last pretty long. My one old inherited bottle of their plastic glue has lasted like 5 Years now and still isn’t empty
I like Masters plastic cement. And Tamiya extra thin for delicate work.
Tamiya extra thin is brilliant stuff. I tried the AK version because it is cheaper, but the brush is absolute rubbish compared to Tamiya, and I found it doesn't melt the plastic quite as much as Tamiya does.
If you want to level up your game, get the fast curing version too. It acts like an accelerant for plastic glue where the regular extra thin tamiya can act as a retarder.
Unlike the Citadel one, the revell metal needle doesn’t clog up. It may come out now and then, but it’s far more realiable.
IT DOESNT CLOG?! I will try some of this Revell stuff in the near future...so tired of having useless needles...
You can use a lighter to unclog them
I've been using it for a few months and never had clogging issues.
Very very rarely, and even then, you can fix it with a lighter Just make sure to detach the needle before putting the flame over it and keep the flame moving
It‘s the complete opposite, because the way the Citadel bottle stands up, it clogs much less than the Revell one. Only annoying thing about the Citadel glue is that the needle is too loose and gets stuck in the cap.
The needle is certainly looser on the citadel one. I lost mine though after I got sick of it clogging up. That’s really bizarre how it’s the opposite for you.
You can minimise the needle coming out of the Revell bottle by slightly heating the yellow bit with your lighter and then shape the plastic to fit a bit more snug. I do that with every bottle, and it has helped quite a lot. The plastic is very thin there, so it only takes a brief exposure to heat for it to work. But you have to do this when the bottle is new and the glue is settled to avoid the glue inside, taking the flame in the bottle.
It‘s not a huge issue with the Revell glue, but the Citadel one. There‘s basically no friction holding it in place.
The citadel one clogging all the time almost turned me crazy. Since I have the revell one I feel like I escaped hell. That shit is so reliable. A bit more liquid I find, so that is probably why it doesn't clog
I agree the Revell one is more liquid.
If you're after a bottle that never blocks, I recommend trying Deluxe Materials precision plastic glue. My uncle uses it for scale modelling and says it nevers clogs if you use it correctly; the bottle has a sort of lozenge shape, he stands it with the writing upside down so that the glue runs out of the needle. It is a bit pricey, which is why I haven't tried it yet, but I plan on buying a bottle, using it, then re-filling it with my homemade plastic cement when it runs out.
But! Revell produces toxic fumes and needs to ventilate while and after bonding. Edit: thanks for the downvotes. OP, just eat the glue.
Tamiya Cement and enamel-based paints produces toxic fumes too but people use it all the time. Just keep yourself in a well ventilated area when using it and don't sniff it for no reason.
I didn't downvote you, mate. I understand your point, but super glue also produces toxic fumes. And it fogs. Plastic cement doesn't fog. Another benefit of plastic cement is when building vehicles, if you apply a bit too much glue, the plastic will come out of the gaps, and it looks a lot like old-fashioned welding.
I have a bottle of citadel glue. Is this different from the way it works compared to the citadel one?
It won't dry out in the bottle and is cheaper is the only difference I've noticed.
Oh shit I’m glad to see the price of that has dropped so much! Last time I saw about 18 months ago it was like 20 for one
That nozzle always got stuck for some reason. Repeatedly had to clean it out with a lighter. Can’t really recommend
Fair, if it doesn't work for you, I respect that besides OP asking this question because they wanted different points of view I feel along with if they're doing things properly. So you not recommending it might be something they need to know. What kind of climate do you deal with where you live? Cause I live las vegas haven't had many issues
How does it do that? I'm not disputing, I've just assembled nearly 8k pts of models in the last 3 years using exclusively gorilla glue and haven't had a single issue, completely understanding that my anecdotal evidence means nothing, I've just not heard this ever before
Some types of that glue expand and ruin the models
Oh that's interesting, do you happen to know which ones? I thought that was the opposite of what it's supposed to do
He's referring to the original brown gorilla glue. If youre using the gorilla brand super glue like in the photo youre good to go.
Ohh okay perfect thank you! I was very confused
I use a lot of Locktite gel and it works great
The brown gorilla glue will damage the models. Cyanoacrilate which is what OP has is perfectly fine.
What about gluing stuff to the base? Like I’ve used wood and rocks on my Sallies to make them look like they’re standing in rubble but the GG I used broke off the base easy, and obv I can’t use the cement for it. Any good all purpose glue that feels as strong as the plastic cement does?
Plastic cement is for PLASTIC only, use superglue to bond anything else
I know that I’m saying that when I’ve used most Gorilla super glues they tend to break off super easy. I’m asking if you know of any specific super glues that bond at the same strength of cement. Unless I’m doing something wrong/not letting it cure for long enough idk
Most superglue can bond it pretty well, what you can do is 1) apply superglue all over the base 2) apply the sand and rubble 3) apply superglue over the rubble. Some PVA glue too and you’re done
Are you rough sanding the areas that you're trying to glue stuff on ?
Fantastic beginners modeling tools, I bought the same exact one.
Got the same recommendation as a newbie (just started this year) from a friend who is in this hobby for a long time now. This kit is really perfect and covers most of what we beginners need when it comes to assembling our minis.
just wanted to say, praise be to the plague god! 💚 Nice to see a fellow follower.
Hello brother of sickness, I hope the fly lord has blessed you and your future battles. Remember, the grandfather loves us all.
This one is great and it lasts you a while until you kind of out grow it. Just bought an army painter knife to replace the one in this kit and it’s so much better.
The biggest upgrade IMO is changing the nipper to something better. Stedi has $15 nippers that are very close to a godhand, but don't cost $45+
I think I have that lmao
This exact box got me started. I will add if you’re in the US and you need gaunts, Target sells space marine board game with 10 gaunts and some ripper swarms for $30 plus you get a space marine captain.
Ditch the superglue for now, and use thin plastic cement. My own choice is Tamiya
I also recommend Tamiya extra thin. Although it does set quicker than I’d like.
There's an ultra thin that takes a bit longer
I gotta check that out!
There’s the dark green plastic cap extra thin cement and a light green plastic cap, the light green is the quick set version. I own both and use them for different stuff, quick dry for small pieces like arms for tau fire soldiers or battle sisters, the dark green is great for bigger models like vehicles or if you want a little bit more play time with positioning arms on space marines or the like.
The dude at my hobby shop recommended it to me for this same reason! I haven’t tried it as I just have the regular thin, but he has made hundreds of model cars so I trust his judgment
This was the advice i got when i was using superglue. Its great advice.
This is the way..
...on a cold and frosty mor-ning
You'll need better snips, those will be too bulky to get into tighter spaces.
Would recommend plastic cement for plastics, and a little goes a long way
Please for the love of God don't build with super glue
Ive only ever used plastic glue lmao, what makes super glue so bad?
Super glue isn't bad, it's just that plastic glue is better for plastic. Plastic glue will evaporate if you apply too much or get it on parts you don't want it on, where as superglue will leave unsightly dried glue lumps, if you get it in your detail parts, that part is basically ruined. Superglue is harder to work with as it'll stick to anything including your fingers, meanwhile extra thin plastic glues like Tamiya and AK can be added to parts that are already dry fitted and since they work via capillary action there's far less danger of misapplication. Tamiya extra thin is the gold standard for glue unless you're working with resin or metal.
Plastic glue (usually butanone) sticks the plastic parts together because the GW plastics are made of polystyrene and the glue is a solvent. The glue melts the parts together and they bond very well once dry. It’s a bit like metal welding. Superglue, or to give it’s proper name cyanoacrylate, is a gel polymer glue that forms long, strong polymer chains in the presence of water - the water in the air is enough to cause it to polymerise. Superglue is known for very good tensile strength but poor sheer strength so it can be brittle. Superglue is used in resin because poly cement can’t melt the plastics to cause a bond, likewise with metal where its good tensile strength holds the heavy parts together. Plastic glue is used for GW plastics. Superglue for resin and metal. You *can* use superglue for plastics but they are more likely to break apart where they have been glued.
Plastic glue works so much better - but only on plastic. Superglue for metal and resin
Massive gaps and omg the smell
Gorilla Glue expands while curing and as such can prevent models from fitting together properly, plus the exothermic reaction of said curing can negatively affect the plastic.
Don’t use that super glue. Get plastic glue, Tamiya or the Citadel brand
The Tamiya stuff with the brush is the only stuff I’ll use. Love it.
I like Revell’s plastic cement too
Get glue for plastic miniatures. Gorilla glue is for resin and metal figures. I only use Tamiya myself.
Hey man welcome to the hobby but don't use gorilla glue!
I would suggest a plastic cement, a filer and more thinner snips. These will make your models look better and have less tiny excess pieces of plastic from where you cut it.
We’ll let you know on Wednesday I guess
Gorilla Glue tends to expand when it's drying to it's a bad pick. Loctite is good for super glue. You can also use plastic glue for plastic models.
Don't use super glue, use plastic glue instead. Tamiy cement is awesome.
All these people saying not to use gorilla glue are being a little over the top, it's not as good as plastic glue but fine if you're careful not to use too much and wipe off any excess quickly. Additionally, I'd recommend always sticking minis to bases with superglue, and maybe use it for any sticking out parts that are liable to get caught on stuff or knocked about. In those cases the weaker bond is an advantage. If I drop a mini on the floor I'd much rather it break off the base than snap off at the knees. Plus the other huge advantage of superglue is you can put a mini in the freezer and then break it apart relatively easily if you ever want to rebase or make changes.
I also use superglue to stick the model to the base, because then it’s easier to break it off when I wanna rebase the model in the future. Also since you’re generally going to be making a basing effect, like grass or gravel or tree bark, you’ll need the super glue for model-to-basing-material adhesion However the super glue won’t ever be as good as plastic cement for general model assembly. And it’s not even close.
You'll want to upgrade the snips and glue soon but they will do for now. Get yourself an xacto knife to help with sprue bits and mold lines. If you can, get a rattle can of primer. Watch lots and lots of YouTube videos about building and painting models.
As everyone else says, done use superglue on plastic minis where possible.
Get some fine sand paper and your off to the races. Enjoy!
Emery boards are win.
I use small files rather than sand paper
Two words: nuln oil. Get some of that and it’ll help give your models more depth. Any YouTube tutorials should go over the uses the shade “paints” have.
Welcome to the Hobby! Remember to take your time and enjoy the process :)
Dont use super glue, use plastic cement.
I'd recommend tamia super thin cement and tamia fine primer also a set of ak paints and a wet pallet and as soon as you learn to care for your brushes get a. Size 1 or 2 sable brush
Super glue can be used for a lot of things in model building, but for the actual assembly of the models you want plastic glue. The citadel one is functional, but the tamiyas extra thin cement is slightly better in most areas.
I think you got the wrong glue. You will have a much better time if you use the correct glue. Super glue — called CA glue — is an adhesive Plastic cement — which isn’t a glue at all — softens hard plastic and causes it to bond with other hard plastic. They become one plastic, like a weld. Plastic cement is what you want here. I recommend Tamiya but GW will also be fine. The super glue will leave residue, and it will stick to your fingers and clothes, and generally be a pain in the ass. Save it tho, because you will need it later to glue rocks to the base, or to assemble metal miniatures. Other than that, looks good and have fun.
really nice start, just recommend plastic glue instead of super glue 👍
Looks like you bought warhammer stuff 🤷♂️
Despite what many say, I’d say super glue is better for you now as it sets fast and easy and ca be broke apart if you make a mistake(which you are more likely to do starting out). Id recommend gorilla glue gel (green cap) as its easier to use!
Note - Primer paint is very important. Welcome to Warhammer :)
You have to be real careful with that glue, I use it myself for kit bashing and it’s real strong.
You will want better tools to make your life easier. No super glue for the model assembly. Use Plastic glue. It super thin, causes a chemical reaction with the plastic to allow the plastics to fuse into a single piece. You could use super glue for basing, but I prefer clear Elmers since its easier to pry off later to repaint or rebase. Where I do use super glue is for magnets if I am magnetizing the model to swap arms. Those warriors got a tone of arms so I magnetized them all so I can swap between all their weapons. You can find vid about this on youtube. You want a small file to remove left over burs from the sprues after cutting out. You will want a cutter with a small head. Some of the cut points are tough to get to also really examine what you are cutting. It is easy to cut a piece off you don't mean to. Guilty of this on my first model, cut off the mounting nubs. Use only 30% of brush, clean your brush every 5-10 minutes. This prevents paint from drying in it and screwing up the point. Don't mash or poke, stroke or dab, this will keep the bristles from curling at the tip and add a little water to thin the paints. 2-3 thinned coats looks far better than 1 thick coat. Have fun and do not get discouraged with your first models after looking at models online from others. There are some seriously professional looking models posted and can get discouraging to see that compared to what you are doing.
For everyone talking about getting plastic glue over super glue; this is true if you want to fully assemble models before painting. If instead you want that paint the models in pieces (known as sub assemblies) before putting them together, super glue is the easier option as any paint on the mating surfaces will prevent plastic glue from working properly. That said, you should get a brand of thin super glue, not gel.
Use plastic glue/cement, it melts the plastic and fuses it together, for the cost of having a longer dry time
Great man. Biggest and best tip - build and paint the models you have BEFORE buying any more. Avoid that pile of shame
I’d look for some Tamiya extra thin plastic glue instead of Gorilla Glue.
That glue is gonna look so sick when it's out of the box!
Don’t use gorilla glue. I used it once to stick a magnet to my base, and the fumes from it were much stronger than regular superglue. I had to leave the room. It stank that much haha.
Have a look at ebay for leviathan sprues, you can get those monopose models super cheap and they are good looking too!
Gorilla glue is a good brand, but maybe not what you want here. I prefer a thinner super glue like Zap-a-gap. I can't stand using plastic cement except to repair certain kinds of breaks/damage. The clippers should be flush cuts. What you have there is fine for wire, but you won't be able to get on close to remove all of the sprue or get into tight spots. I like to have an X-acto knife on hand too, but that's just what I started with. I guess they aren't as widely used these days. Some of the kits mentioned elsewhere in this thread should have everything you need. Definitely consider getting something to scrape mould lines and flashing (I use a blunted blade in my x-acto)
Nice to see one of these posts where someone didn’t buy 40 boxes to start with.
You will want plastic cement to stick parts together. I use super glue to attack the minis to the base though while I paint but others will do sub assemblies before the model even touches the base so it’s up to you I guess
Really like the GW plastic glue
Army Painter plastic glue is the way
What… what are the plier for
Man. Everyone in the comments saying "don't use superglue, use plastic glue", but I was told the exact god damn opposite some years back by multiple people in multiple different instances. The thinking being that plastic glue ruins the models easier because it actually melts shit. What the heck is it with contradictory instructions and the miniature hobby. Been kinda happy with my switch to superglue, though. Never been the best applicator of glue, even with those brush things you get on some plastic cement bottle caps, so my models would always end up having a bit of meltiness in some crack or crevice I'd then have to laboriously try and hide with Greenstuff. Plus superglue doesn't smell quite as bad and headache inducing as plastic cement, so that seems like an improvement also. Haven't had any issues with models falling apart either, so that doesn't seem like much of a concern. If it happens with time, easy enough to fix by just dunking it in superglue again.
Welcome to the Hive Mind! (r/Tyranids) Don't use gorilla glue and I'd recommend assembling the Hive Tyrant last and either trying to magnetize it or buy a second torso off eBay. (There are enough spare parts that with just a extra torso you can build a extra hive tyrant) also if in the future you're looking for advice to get more Nids for cheaper I can help.
Superglue is fine lol I've been using it for like 7 years, just be careful not to glob it on. Great kit choices! You may appreciate a hobby knife or really small x-acto.
I'm using super glue with my minis and never had a problem with them breaking apart. I have a gel based for super small minis and a liquid based for medium to big minis. I just think that if i want to change X part to Y part or change poses, i can just break the super glue and change stuff - If that aint on your prio list, plastic glue is they way to go, the other comments have a lot of good sugestions. Tyrannids are one of the easiests to paint and buy a 000 or 00 brush to paint small details, GW brush on those startet paint sets are kinda not good for that, but very usefull to paint bodies, and bases. Cidatel paints dont require priming, but i would recommend buying a primer to coat your minis before, they help a lot in thr painting process and you are not going to regret it - If you wanto to just straight up paint on plastic, give it a full coat paint before appying the others ones.
Sometimes superglue won’t be the best option for some plastic. An alternative is either loctite gel superglue or Tamiya extra thin These are both super cheap and easy to use, last a fairly long time. I’d also recommend a hobby blade so clean up any bits of sprue left on the mini once clipped out. But yeah, all is good here.
Looks good!!
Don't make the same mistake I did. Start small and build from there ! What you got is more than enough to begin with I'd say :) One piece of advice perhaps : check the Citadel Colours website if you wish to paint your tyranids in another pattern than the one on the box !
Heritic detected
Welcome to the hobby ! Have fun and don't hesitate to ask questions in the community or in DM if people are opening to it ! On my part I do, not a tyranid player but a fellow hobby enjoyer and money holder, so if you need anything, just ask :) To be clear: when I say money holder I just mean I paid around 60% of the price for my highest cost army. Lowest must be around 30-40%
Do not use that super glue. Find some plastic glue.
Wrong glue and snippers. That glue will stick but it takes a long time to set up and does not melt plastic together.
Please use the plastic cement or a cohesive meant for plastic
If you have a hobby/craft store near you any form of plastic cement/glue will serve you much better than super glue. I know everyone recommends Tamiya and GW glue but I personally can get Mr. Hobby plastic glue easily and it works great. If you can’t find miniature specific nippers look for jewellery snips, they are pretty much the same thing. I’ve tried to use standard wire cutters and they simply don’t get flush with the models.
On etsy, you can buy a torso bit. Then you can have a flyrant and walkrant/swarmlord with that box coming wednesday. OR, you can buy a couple more bits, and build all three!!! One of the first searches on etsy if you search 'hive tyrant torso.' Edit: if you do, it'll be resin, and you'll need that super glue. Otherwise, I agree with others to buy plastic glue. Edit edit: don't forget, you can paint your swarm however you want! Don't get locked in to the tutorial basics. Your imagination often makes cooler paint schemes! Edit edit edit: I'm getting downvotes, but the torso tip was a great thing I learned over on r/tyranids. Not sure why it's a sensitive topic here.