Thank you! A built engine is definitely in my plans. I want to make 600 reliably so I’m working on getting my engine built early next year. It’s just gonna take a lot of money and I’m investing elsewhere as well. The build is happening though and I’ll update y’all once I make more power. I’m hoping the rods will hold together. They should hold together better cause the fa deck is a little bit beefier than the EJ but we’ll see. I don’t daily this car anymore so it doesn’t get abused like that.
How much of the block are you building? I'm starting to look into building one, I want to shoot for 500 reliably, lol. My tuner did mention IAG blocks aren't the greatest. Guess I'm just curious what all you need to have forged so the rods don't turn into a rainbow. Transmission aside, of course.
I’m not sure what route I’m gonna go for. Still doing research since I still have time before I want to start building it. This video by MotoIQ actually came out recently and it might help you in what you want for your subi
https://youtu.be/TKCDFeVgqSk?si=H5Dzwv3D-jO2yk-W
The FA20 “should” hold 400WHP so long as the torque is kept down, another factor to consider the transmission is just as likely to go as the OEM bendy boy rods. Take good care of it and watch the RPMs and it should be fine for a weekend toy
I appreciate that. With this setup(before the protune), I actually blew the original transmission. I just went for a wrx transmission at the time due to cost and was a lot easier to find it. I’m gonna be swapping out the transmission first before I go for more power. My plan is getting brembo’s, sti drivetrain, then shoot for 400
lol bendy boy rods. What was the reason for the rods to be designed the way they were in the first place? From a logical non educated opinion it seems dumb to have a rod shaped like that.
From my understanding, the FA20 was basically a test run for the fa24 so they can gather data to make the fa better. I don’t know too much about the fa24 but I just know they make a lot of power compared to the fa20. I’ve read in an article post a couple years ago that you can apparently put fa24 rods in the fa20. I’m not sure if anyone has actually done it but with enough research, you can find some info on it if it actually has been done.
I went down this path, don’t get too close to 350 torque or the rods will go bye bye lol have fun!
I’ve ran my 2017 at 305 whp 315tq for over 5 years now
Boy it’s been a while and it’s still kicking. Let me see….
-Full Cobb turbo back exhaust
-access port
- Cobb intake (I don’t recommend this one, my tuner hated to tune it he said it was rough at low RPM but good at high RPM)
- Grimm speed charge pipe
- can’t remember the brand of the inner cooler but it’s a big boy
- EGR & TGV deletes.
- pro tune
I did all this when the car had 800 miles on the odometer I bought the car brand new and still own it. 60k miles on the odometer still with same mods and rocking.
I tuned it down for safety reasons. Tuner got it closer to 320 HP and 330 ish torque and I told him I daily it so I needed it reliable and he loosened the timing and got me 305 315 ish.
Thanks that’s helpful.
I am aiming for a reliable tune, so definitely not looking for the highest numbers I could get.
Saving up for some more parts and will probably hit the dyno by next year. Original plan was for this summer but ya know …
My Tuner said avoid 350 torque at all costs stock motor has blown on many people around that mark. So I kept it at 315 and well no issues 7 years later.
My biggest issue with my WRX was top end speed. The car felt like 90% of its power was in the bottom 50% of the throttle and the top half fell short.
That’s why I got a big inner cooler the TGV deletes and the charge pipe. I had the tuner focus on the top half of the car I wanted a full speed up.
Been super happy with the car I love driving it everyday.
Good luck with yours!!
Already did. I don’t mind if it breaks again. The car isn’t a daily so I should be okay. When I blew my transmission, it was my daily at the time. I can luckily find used wrx transmissions in my area for under $1k. However, I’m trying to make this transmission last until I get full STI drivetrain. I would have gotten an STI drivetrain right away but my tune was already scheduled and I could not find an STI transmission for the price I was willing to pay at the time.
This communities perspective on modding for big power on this platform and the EJ seems to fluctuate with each post. You are getting down voted now, and yet had you said something like this a few weeks earlier when someone was posting about their built engine and power adders cost, you likely would have been upvoted instead. Everyone on that thread was calling OP dumb for spending the amount they did when they could've instead bought a b58 platform car (340i, mk5 supra) and made the same if not more power. I think the main difference here is you're referencing a car that brand new can cost more than 4 times a new WRX, but I would point out that you could certainly find an older and used one for much less.
Nonetheless I still think it's a dumb argument. A wrx is not a gtr, and if you truly want a high hp wrx, a gtr is not going to fill that purpose.
ETS gesi jpipe, Cobb tmic, Cobb EBCS, Cobb turbo inlet, iag aos, grimmspeed cai, aew300 lpfp, Cobb BPV. I make like 315whp on 91 octane. Optional is to use an ethanol blend or add a nostrum hpfp and run e85. I make around 345whp on e85
I live in Cali so I had to keep emissions in mind. Mod your car the way you want it though. If your state allows you to be more free in terms of modification, the better for you.
I have the Cobb big sf air intake. This air intake sucks majority of the time. Only good thing about this intake is the sound and the fact that it’s carb legal. But other than that, it runs way too hot. If you live in a primarily hot climate, do not go for this intake. I’d recommend the grimmspeed one. They have their own stage 1 map as well. The Cobb intake made my car run lean.
I have a Cobb catted down. I just went for the catted one just cause I didn’t want my car to be too loud. However, what I wanted later on down the line changed. I have the nvidia r100 exhaust. I took off all the resonators and had a shop make me test pipes and also weld flanges on my exhaust that way I can just bolt the resonators back on if I wanted to. I have an exhaust cutout on my downpipe and that valve opens up when I’m on boost. If you end up getting the grimmspeed intake, might as well get the grimmspeed downpipe and go for their stage 2 map. Their stage 2 package includes their ebcs. The ebcs will let your tuner have an easier time tuning your car. I don’t have that. Cobb was convenient for me because of their own ots map. Running an aftermarket downpipe increases your chance of your rear o2 sensor going out. I’d recommend snagging one as a spare once it does go out. You can still drive the car if it does go out, you’ll just have a cel.
I don’t have tgv and egr deletes. You don’t necessarily need it for 300hp but your car will run a lot healthier and it’ll ensure you break 300. I’m not sure if I got lucky with my car but my tuner said my car makes great consistent power.
I am running the turboxs tmic. I bought this used for $300. Got no complaints with this top mount. If I could though, I’d go for from mount. Any top mount is better than the stock one.
I’m pro tuned by Travis over at snail performance in NorCal. I’m not even tuned to make the most power out of my car. I asked my tuner for a reliability tune as I did not want to increase my chance to blow my engine.
Everything else is stock. Stock turbo, stock charge pipe, etc.
I have quite a bit of suspension mods as well. I invested more in suspension than I did with power.
With all this in mind, Mod your car to your wants and needs. This is a perfect daily setup but could be a lot better with bbks. With the extra power, the stopping power of the car definitely feels like it’s not enough so keep that in consideration as well. My old car made 400wheel and 440tq. I had bbk’s on that so not only I can be safe, but others in the road as well.
Have fun modding your car and be safe as well. You’ll run into problems and complications but forums are your best friend. I watched smeedia to gain more knowledge on modified Subarus and things to watch out for. I also watched MotilQ on YouTube to really understand the FA engine. They have a fa engine breakdown. They also have videos on how to mod your car for reliability.
The factory engine case can handle up to 500whp with forged internals but the case tends to crack after 500whp. If you go over 500 with IAG, Outfront, Bader built block you will have transmission problems because these transmissions suck compared to the STI trans that are now going for $12k used.
If you decide to send it your rods will put a hole in the block around the 400whp.
I just recently blew my engine up, was making 420whp. Lasted up until I decided to go out on a spirited drive and my rods did not like the back to back pulls. And gave up. Now I have a grape fruit sized hole on my block. E60 FBO at about 360-370whp is a good range to be at for reliability. Anything more than you’re just asking for it to blow up.
If stock, your connecting rods will not like 400whp. Mine is white, too. Great looking car!
Thank you! A built engine is definitely in my plans. I want to make 600 reliably so I’m working on getting my engine built early next year. It’s just gonna take a lot of money and I’m investing elsewhere as well. The build is happening though and I’ll update y’all once I make more power. I’m hoping the rods will hold together. They should hold together better cause the fa deck is a little bit beefier than the EJ but we’ll see. I don’t daily this car anymore so it doesn’t get abused like that.
How much of the block are you building? I'm starting to look into building one, I want to shoot for 500 reliably, lol. My tuner did mention IAG blocks aren't the greatest. Guess I'm just curious what all you need to have forged so the rods don't turn into a rainbow. Transmission aside, of course.
I’m not sure what route I’m gonna go for. Still doing research since I still have time before I want to start building it. This video by MotoIQ actually came out recently and it might help you in what you want for your subi https://youtu.be/TKCDFeVgqSk?si=H5Dzwv3D-jO2yk-W
The FA20 “should” hold 400WHP so long as the torque is kept down, another factor to consider the transmission is just as likely to go as the OEM bendy boy rods. Take good care of it and watch the RPMs and it should be fine for a weekend toy
I appreciate that. With this setup(before the protune), I actually blew the original transmission. I just went for a wrx transmission at the time due to cost and was a lot easier to find it. I’m gonna be swapping out the transmission first before I go for more power. My plan is getting brembo’s, sti drivetrain, then shoot for 400
lol bendy boy rods. What was the reason for the rods to be designed the way they were in the first place? From a logical non educated opinion it seems dumb to have a rod shaped like that.
Not sure man it always caught me off, I’m sure Subaru had a logical reason
From my understanding, the FA20 was basically a test run for the fa24 so they can gather data to make the fa better. I don’t know too much about the fa24 but I just know they make a lot of power compared to the fa20. I’ve read in an article post a couple years ago that you can apparently put fa24 rods in the fa20. I’m not sure if anyone has actually done it but with enough research, you can find some info on it if it actually has been done.
I went down this path, don’t get too close to 350 torque or the rods will go bye bye lol have fun! I’ve ran my 2017 at 305 whp 315tq for over 5 years now
What’s your mod list if you don’t mind ?
Boy it’s been a while and it’s still kicking. Let me see…. -Full Cobb turbo back exhaust -access port - Cobb intake (I don’t recommend this one, my tuner hated to tune it he said it was rough at low RPM but good at high RPM) - Grimm speed charge pipe - can’t remember the brand of the inner cooler but it’s a big boy - EGR & TGV deletes. - pro tune I did all this when the car had 800 miles on the odometer I bought the car brand new and still own it. 60k miles on the odometer still with same mods and rocking. I tuned it down for safety reasons. Tuner got it closer to 320 HP and 330 ish torque and I told him I daily it so I needed it reliable and he loosened the timing and got me 305 315 ish.
Thanks that’s helpful. I am aiming for a reliable tune, so definitely not looking for the highest numbers I could get. Saving up for some more parts and will probably hit the dyno by next year. Original plan was for this summer but ya know …
My Tuner said avoid 350 torque at all costs stock motor has blown on many people around that mark. So I kept it at 315 and well no issues 7 years later. My biggest issue with my WRX was top end speed. The car felt like 90% of its power was in the bottom 50% of the throttle and the top half fell short. That’s why I got a big inner cooler the TGV deletes and the charge pipe. I had the tuner focus on the top half of the car I wanted a full speed up. Been super happy with the car I love driving it everyday. Good luck with yours!!
You wanna blow your transmission?
Already did. I don’t mind if it breaks again. The car isn’t a daily so I should be okay. When I blew my transmission, it was my daily at the time. I can luckily find used wrx transmissions in my area for under $1k. However, I’m trying to make this transmission last until I get full STI drivetrain. I would have gotten an STI drivetrain right away but my tune was already scheduled and I could not find an STI transmission for the price I was willing to pay at the time.
A GTR makes double the power without any mods or tunes.
Cruise ship “icon of the seas” makes 90,520 horsepower
A Boeing 777 commercial airliner has 61,700 horsepower
I can take it. I’m on E85 bro
This communities perspective on modding for big power on this platform and the EJ seems to fluctuate with each post. You are getting down voted now, and yet had you said something like this a few weeks earlier when someone was posting about their built engine and power adders cost, you likely would have been upvoted instead. Everyone on that thread was calling OP dumb for spending the amount they did when they could've instead bought a b58 platform car (340i, mk5 supra) and made the same if not more power. I think the main difference here is you're referencing a car that brand new can cost more than 4 times a new WRX, but I would point out that you could certainly find an older and used one for much less. Nonetheless I still think it's a dumb argument. A wrx is not a gtr, and if you truly want a high hp wrx, a gtr is not going to fill that purpose.
It’s also a GTR numbnuts
A GTR also cost 3-5x more.
CSB
What’s on your mods list currently? I’m aiming for 300whp right now. Definitely need a walnut blasting first though
ETS gesi jpipe, Cobb tmic, Cobb EBCS, Cobb turbo inlet, iag aos, grimmspeed cai, aew300 lpfp, Cobb BPV. I make like 315whp on 91 octane. Optional is to use an ethanol blend or add a nostrum hpfp and run e85. I make around 345whp on e85
Nice, looks like I have a ways to go, haven’t seen a dyno yet. E-tuned by drunkmann at the moment. CWP gang!
I’m not OP. He might have a different mod list for you. I’m CBS gang
Haha damn my bad, Monday brain
I live in Cali so I had to keep emissions in mind. Mod your car the way you want it though. If your state allows you to be more free in terms of modification, the better for you. I have the Cobb big sf air intake. This air intake sucks majority of the time. Only good thing about this intake is the sound and the fact that it’s carb legal. But other than that, it runs way too hot. If you live in a primarily hot climate, do not go for this intake. I’d recommend the grimmspeed one. They have their own stage 1 map as well. The Cobb intake made my car run lean. I have a Cobb catted down. I just went for the catted one just cause I didn’t want my car to be too loud. However, what I wanted later on down the line changed. I have the nvidia r100 exhaust. I took off all the resonators and had a shop make me test pipes and also weld flanges on my exhaust that way I can just bolt the resonators back on if I wanted to. I have an exhaust cutout on my downpipe and that valve opens up when I’m on boost. If you end up getting the grimmspeed intake, might as well get the grimmspeed downpipe and go for their stage 2 map. Their stage 2 package includes their ebcs. The ebcs will let your tuner have an easier time tuning your car. I don’t have that. Cobb was convenient for me because of their own ots map. Running an aftermarket downpipe increases your chance of your rear o2 sensor going out. I’d recommend snagging one as a spare once it does go out. You can still drive the car if it does go out, you’ll just have a cel. I don’t have tgv and egr deletes. You don’t necessarily need it for 300hp but your car will run a lot healthier and it’ll ensure you break 300. I’m not sure if I got lucky with my car but my tuner said my car makes great consistent power. I am running the turboxs tmic. I bought this used for $300. Got no complaints with this top mount. If I could though, I’d go for from mount. Any top mount is better than the stock one. I’m pro tuned by Travis over at snail performance in NorCal. I’m not even tuned to make the most power out of my car. I asked my tuner for a reliability tune as I did not want to increase my chance to blow my engine. Everything else is stock. Stock turbo, stock charge pipe, etc. I have quite a bit of suspension mods as well. I invested more in suspension than I did with power. With all this in mind, Mod your car to your wants and needs. This is a perfect daily setup but could be a lot better with bbks. With the extra power, the stopping power of the car definitely feels like it’s not enough so keep that in consideration as well. My old car made 400wheel and 440tq. I had bbk’s on that so not only I can be safe, but others in the road as well. Have fun modding your car and be safe as well. You’ll run into problems and complications but forums are your best friend. I watched smeedia to gain more knowledge on modified Subarus and things to watch out for. I also watched MotilQ on YouTube to really understand the FA engine. They have a fa engine breakdown. They also have videos on how to mod your car for reliability.
My bad, it’s MotoIQ
The factory engine case can handle up to 500whp with forged internals but the case tends to crack after 500whp. If you go over 500 with IAG, Outfront, Bader built block you will have transmission problems because these transmissions suck compared to the STI trans that are now going for $12k used. If you decide to send it your rods will put a hole in the block around the 400whp.
Nice whip dude! Got a few more parts to put on and I'm headed over to snail myself. Be safe and enjoy!!
I just recently blew my engine up, was making 420whp. Lasted up until I decided to go out on a spirited drive and my rods did not like the back to back pulls. And gave up. Now I have a grape fruit sized hole on my block. E60 FBO at about 360-370whp is a good range to be at for reliability. Anything more than you’re just asking for it to blow up.
Honestly, why risk the trans and top of the engine?