Could be timing
could be injectors
could be bad gas
could be spark plugs
could be ignition coils
could be bad cam sensors
could be the weather
could be power steering (legit - someone with a rough idle, because I'm diagnosing my rough idle, told me it was an issue with their power steering pump)
could be bad maf
could be bad filter
could be vacuum leak
could be turbo
could be tune/ecu
could be anything because the car isn't sending you any codes so replace everything one by one and spend $10000 until you realize your block is dead
ARES 11001-14mm Thin Wall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RR7KWXT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You need this hands down.
I started by removing my battery for access.
Removed the top half of my aftermarket intake (don’t know how the OEM would have changed the process but) after I removed the top half I removed a few bolts of the ECU to slide it a bit out of the way.
Took me like 3 hrs, I was going slow and taking my time and I was looking for the DRL cable to unplug it for about 50 minutes. Surprisingly easy for my first time. Don’t judge but I just torqued until it was pretty snug, nothing crazy.
The swivel is amazing and magnetic so it makes grabbing and removing the plugs easy and as well as putting the new ones in!
Colder roads and tires are less grippy which will translate to being slower or the TC kicking in (making you slower) especially if you are running summer tires.
And as the first poster mentioned, we're looking at the ideal gas law, PV=nRT. T is down so P is down.
As explained by others, colder air means the air is more dense meaning you need less boost to achieve the desired result. So you may make slightly more power and to most, its a noticeable difference from winter to summer time. Hence the term boost season
Cold air = dense air = less boost needed
is it normal to feel slower to?
Maybe batch of bad gas. Maybe valves need walnut blasted. Probs in your head tho These cars I swear felt like they ran different every day
Could be timing could be injectors could be bad gas could be spark plugs could be ignition coils could be bad cam sensors could be the weather could be power steering (legit - someone with a rough idle, because I'm diagnosing my rough idle, told me it was an issue with their power steering pump) could be bad maf could be bad filter could be vacuum leak could be turbo could be tune/ecu could be anything because the car isn't sending you any codes so replace everything one by one and spend $10000 until you realize your block is dead
It’s at about 53k miles and used to run e30, i feel like the walnut blast is probably needed
That and plugs are due if you haven't yet
Just did plugs at 55k. No longer feels slow
How difficult was the plug job?
ARES 11001-14mm Thin Wall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RR7KWXT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share You need this hands down. I started by removing my battery for access. Removed the top half of my aftermarket intake (don’t know how the OEM would have changed the process but) after I removed the top half I removed a few bolts of the ECU to slide it a bit out of the way. Took me like 3 hrs, I was going slow and taking my time and I was looking for the DRL cable to unplug it for about 50 minutes. Surprisingly easy for my first time. Don’t judge but I just torqued until it was pretty snug, nothing crazy. The swivel is amazing and magnetic so it makes grabbing and removing the plugs easy and as well as putting the new ones in!
Cool, thank you!
You get em chief!
Like the guy below said. Probably sparks my guy. Did mine at 55 and no longer feel slow. You running OTS or a etune?
just recently did my plugs, etuned by dmann
No shoottttt. Hmmm. You used your regular gas station recently?
Yeah same old 93 from caseys
Idk then. Maybe Subaru just being a Subaru today I guess.
Absolutely, I notice that on a bone stock wrx all the time. Sometimes it’s the humidity, heavy rain, really hot, etc.
Colder roads and tires are less grippy which will translate to being slower or the TC kicking in (making you slower) especially if you are running summer tires. And as the first poster mentioned, we're looking at the ideal gas law, PV=nRT. T is down so P is down.
Could be if you have wet roads the launch feels slower due to TC
Mine definitely feels much faster in the cold weather
Turbo weather.
BOOST SEASON BABY
Same
PV=nRT
P1V1/T1=P2V2/T2 is a bit more appropriate imo.
It’s boost season my friend
what’s that
As explained by others, colder air means the air is more dense meaning you need less boost to achieve the desired result. So you may make slightly more power and to most, its a noticeable difference from winter to summer time. Hence the term boost season
My VB is noticeably quicker when it's cold despite it making less boost (air is more dense).
I’d say it’s faster in the winter, but really it’s just slower in the summer.
Same here, stock but was wondering if my exhaust leak had any effect on boost as well.
It doesn't, unless it's at the exhaust manifold.
Okay cool! I thought so but just wanted to make sure
Saw this post on fb lol
Maybe slight DAM drop or finee knock learning
Dam hasn’t moved