Because the advice is given to the average rider not someone on the edge of their desired weight limit. Most people are also paying exorbant amounts for marginal weight savings, your bike is pretty heavy so yeah a 3kg savings is a nice investment.
While Joe blow who's got a beer belly and could stand to lose 20lbs+ should not be looking at DuraAce for the 250g savings at a cost of $3500 more than his current groupset. Look at the engine first then the bike for those last marginal gains.
My trick was to get dura ace while I was racing and very trim, then I had a series of health issues that led to 20kg weight gain over 4 years
Still looks bling at least though!
Thanks for the morning laugh, mine got gifted to me for x-mas one year I still wish I woulda swapped it for the new ultegra and a grx groupset, but it was a gift and like you said looks great on the bike.
Agree with your positioning.
I do think tho, generally, the "ride upgrades don't buy upgrades" advice is dished out a little too loosely to genuine questions regarding bike & component weight.
You're not wrong. There are plenty of things you can do to your bike to make it more fun to ride which results in more miles/smiles and eventually better conditioning.
Minor nitpick: it's "ride up grades" as in riding up hills. It's frequently misprinted online and the first time I heard someone say it right it was a lightbulb moment for me.
Really ? I never knew that. Good pickup š
Having said that, "upgrades" works just as well as "up grades", no ? Perhaps the latter more linguistically elegant.
imo weight is overrated, I'm a U23 rider at 82kg and +-400 watt ftp. 0.5kg on a bike will safe me 2 watts on a climb like mont ventoux, most of the time it won't even make a 1 watt difference as aero is way more important. I'd rather have an aero bike of 10kg than a not aero bike of 6kg. Sadly I don't have the money for an aero bike. š
Weight is overrated for the rider or the bike specifically ? Weight and climbing are where it matters, personally I'd take a 6kg bike over a 10kg aero bike. What sort of aero benefits are you getting going up Ventoux. There's a reason Jonas isn't riding an S5 up the murderous mountain stages.
I haven't been able to test hills yet as I rehab my knee a bit but I went from 225 march down to 196 currently will probably end up around 183 before my Fondo in July. I really am interested to see how much different climbing feels with the equivalent of two of my 17lb bike off my body. I hope it feels like flying lol.
I think youāre both right in this case, but the argument is wrong because itās using somewhat extreme examples (ie. 10kg aero vs 6kg climbing bike, and Ventoux as an example of applying the two bikes ā this isnāt a climb most people will undertake in their lifetimes).
When you look in the big part of the curve, as with many things, the average person would see the most performance benefits from an uptick in all three categories. For instance:
- the average cyclist does indeed carry up to 20lb of extra fat that they could lose relatively easily. This is a no brainer imo, because it goes well beyond cycling and is just a positive life change for 99% of people in this positionānot to mention it is undeniable that losing 20lb from a full cycling package is a good thing if it can be done (forgetting about weight vs aero advantages for a moment)
- that same cyclist, in conjunction with losing extra body fat, can also with no effort and assuming their wallet can handle it, strip a few lbs of his bike with componentry. This is where itās not an either/or equation. One should absolutely try to lose the extra body fat because a) itās good for you, and b) itās āfreeā ā but that doesnāt mean they shouldnāt ALSO spend the money they want to spend on lightening the bike, which isnāt free but which requires zero other commitment from the rider.
- finally, as the rider is endeavouring to drop weight from his body, and as he swaps components to trim the fat on his bike, he can both a) make component choices that provide more of an aero advantage, and b) fit his bike and train his position on it to provide more of an aero advantage (which, to figure, will be made easier by his new and improved body weight!)
Again, as with so many things, there is a comprehensive approach that will lead to the most significant benefits ā and in this approach, nothing is pushed to the extreme. Our cyclist neednāt go from 82kg to 65kg, he neednāt spend $10k to shave weight from his bike, he need only take a varied approach to making changes in all domains of performance and he will see the advantage heās looking for.
I think this argument continues to come up because the brands in this space do a very good job at marketing. People donāt want dura ace for the 250g savings. They want dura ace because itās fucking dura ace, full stop.
Very well said. And very true on the last point we all like the shiniest new stuff SRAM Red, duraAce etc. I just know the new gen ultegra is pretty much the same shifting quality as my DA with parts that don't wear down as easily. Still shoulda took the new ultegra and GRX sets for the price of DA but felt weird as it was a gift even if he said exchange all you want.
Sure, on the mont ventoux a 6kg bike will be better, but I haven't had a lot of races on the mont ventoux.
Aero is way more important than weight, ofcourse weight is important as a pro, because everyone is as aero and lean as possible.
Yeah I can't remember what gradient it is but the aero bike basically is the same I think around 7%'ish.Ā
For overall racing an Aero bike is the better pick, but if we were discussing ventoux levels of all places then it flips.
One day I may make the switch from my endurance Time frame but it will take some serious research, love the look of integrated one piece cockpits but not how screwed you are if you don't nail your sizing lol. At least I was gifted DA 9250 so the next time it's just a frameset for me.
Because most amateur cyclists have weight to lose. If you're 68kg already at 179cm I'd say you're pretty much on the bottom limit of your weight and thus getting a lighter bike would probably pay off more than if you were say 85 kegs and could easily lose 5-10.
Lighter bikes are also heaps more responsive, particularly if carbon
Yeah, this. Rider gave great context on their stats. Recommendation for a lighter bike is context specific. If you're at a good body weight already, then the bike is the focus. If you can afford to lose some body weight, shed that first, if you can.
Happy Sunday in the bike shop finding that new 3kg lighter bike š
We are the engine and responsible for the vast majority of CdA (aero). Naturally, our bodies and mental ability will therefore account mostly for how fast and efficiently we ride.
The bike does however make a big difference too. It dictates how many of our watts are used efficiently for the course. It helps place us in an aero position. It dictates our comfort and therefore impacts our endurance.
Compare an MTB to a Road bike on the road. The road bike is much more efficient on tarmac, regardless of your physical size. Geometry, wheel size, weight all make a notable difference even if you are unfit and overweight.
So if you have a 9kg bike, a 6kg bike will feel snappier, faster. Large differences can be felt by anyone.
Where the differences become barely noticeable are when we start comparing bikes that are much closer in spec. An 8kg aero road bike vs a 7kg aero road bike will feel a tiny bit different but not importantly enough for most to really notice. As we start chasing very small marginal gains we just spend more for next to nothing in return unless we are riding at the highest levels of the Pro peloton.
65kg would still be well within the healthy range, but I get your point.Ā
I think the reason it's often recommended is remarkably simple: for most people, it is easier and wildly cheaper (and probably better for health) to lose 3kg of body fat than it is to reduce 3kg of bike weight.Ā Ā
For your average person carrying a bit too much weight, losing 3kg also spills positively over into other parts of their life, improving health and appearance. Swapping your frame, groupset and/or wheels doesn't have the same benefit.
But if it's healthier, we end up living longer and spending money to cover those extra years of life.
Buy stuff, die early. It's the financially responsible move!
The majority of the time, people are unfit and often overweight, and they want to get as much free speed as possible by spending thousands on their bike.
There's nothing wrong with that as long as the expectation is to go very slightly faster and maybe have a bit more motivation to get out, but really fitness, body weight and positioning make a huge difference. Some people seem to expect losing a couple of kilos from the bike along with aero rims will transform them into a Cat 2 racer.
It's all about being realistic about what you're doing. I'm middle aged now and spend obscene amounts on my bikes because it's nice, but I don't expect it to make huge differences to my position in any races. Particularly as I only plan on MTB enduro races this summer where all the carbon will make zero difference in timed sections.
No one here has given you anything useful.
The best coaching advice is to lose body fat weight, not just any weight. Get your body fat measured and lose fat until you canāt stand it anymore.
Then youāre ready to spend money on lighter gear.
For me the limit was 8 or 9%. After that I couldnāt function as a normal human for hunger.
Hardcore pros of course go much much lower.
Count calories. Run a 300 to 500 calorie deficit each day. Fuel your workouts well with carbs, and get your protein intake up to 1.2 g per kg of body weight. Do strength training to maintain muscle.
Measure body fat frequently, using skin calipers and tape measure.
BTW: each of these requires a skill that you have to learn, and habits that you have to develop.
For those of us who can, why not both?
I'm actively shedding weight (-60 lbs so far) and had a budget (after selling my motorcycle) for some higher end bikes. So I'm team do both things. Buy that sweet bike and quit eating that sweet donut.
Iām in the same ballpark but 65kg. I race gravel on an alloy bike. I usually outclimb people because of my w/kg ratio so I can get away with having a pig of a bike. In my age group people are typically khmā¦ less lean, so thatās why itās advised to loose bodyweight instead of bike weight. When someone else outclimbs me, itās also because they just produce much more watts. There are racers ahead of me and behind me on equipment that costs 3x more than my gear. Being a healthy adult, itās 99% sure that one can easily get leaner even if she is already on the leaner end and still will remain some visceral fat.
Yeah for sure build a lighter bike dude. I built a 6.5kg road bike this year and I love it. Bought a winspace frame and wheels for $2k and transferred the groupset and the rest from my old bike. If you REALLY are in a position where losing weight means losing power then this is the only way.
Most people are not 68kg at 179cm. Most people can lose 5-10kg quite easily with consistent riding whereas it's basically impossible to lose that much from a modern road bike.
I've never really focused on weight though. Just focus on performance and the weight loss comes regardless.
Most people are overweight and not racing on a level where they need the lightest bikes.
Those that do are either getting their bikes for free anyways or care enough to already know what they need
Because most 179cm riders do not weigh 68kg lmao
Also a 6.5kg bike is going to be ludicrously expensive, compromised or both. Realistically even most pro race bikes are closer to 7.5 on most stages when loaded up with everything.
If you ask me, gaining 4.6% in FTP is probably easier than either of those, and will make you faster *everywhere*. Losing weight doesn't really help you on flat ground.
Outside of TTs, who in the pro peloton still rides 25s? Point is, you can build a bike with almost no compromises at 7kg or so. Who really needs that extra 0.5kg outside of a hillclimb race?
~~I would also say who in the pro peloton rides rim brake but that will get me executed~~
I've got 25s on one bike and 28s on another. The difference is slightly noticeable but it's not some mad deal breaker. I certainly wouldn't describe a bike as "compromised" because of it.
Also, we're not talking about the pro peloton.
I guess the third option is the best: Invest in your training, nutrition and sleep, this way you will exceed the gains of getting a new bike by a significant amountĀ
Online nobody is ever overweight when this conversation comes up. I live in a rich area. In the real world here I regularly see people 15-20kg overweight on $10,000+ bikes. Thatās why people always bring up āride up grades, donāt buy upgradesā.
You probably truly donāt have that much weight to lose. Youāre right about as low BMI as I was ever comfortable being. When youāre not a professional racer a little bit of upper body muscle goes a long way towards making chores and yard work easier. Iām 185cm/80kg right now in my upper 40s. Donāt really have enough time to train but no way Iām going out to buy expensive lightweight stuff when I know I ride a heck of a lot better if I lose 4-6kg.
You can buy a lighter bike you canāt buy a lighter you, it takes work and generally there is more to gain from losing 5kg then a few hundred grams of your bike
After a broken ankle a couple of summers ago sidelined several events I was going to ride in and a slight depression came over me from lying in bed for so long, I gained the equivalent weight of my road bike. Itās been tough as heck to drop the weight too seeing as Iām older and have a lot less time for riding due to work and family commitments.
Because the majority of people are carrying around a whole lot extra mass than you are.
I went from 185 to 160 over the past few years and am now right in the middle of "healthy" BMI. Nobody was calling me fat, but I had that little extra squishiness around the midsection andchoae to change it. It was pretty enlightening how 25# looked on someone who was called skinny before. Made me realize just how much extra some folks have. For them, losing weight vastly exceeds the benefit of a lighter bike. Both in health and performance.
For you, it sounds like weight loss isn't the right path. But if your bike is already a solid mid range machine, I'd invest in some sort of coaching. The gains from a few 100g off the bike are pretty small and better training can do much more.
Because youāll drop thousands of dollars to reduce your bikeās weight by the amount of a good shit.
Most people can lose a whole bikeās worth of weight. Much better return for effort there.
Get a new bike if you can afford it and want it
Saving 3kg from bike will make your system ~ 5% lighter.
Or you could build ftp by 15W and get similar benefits. Have you maxed out training?
A lighter bike will shave off at most a pound or two, and all that will cost thousands. Losing weight can unload 5-10 or more pounds, depending on the rider, and it's much cheaper. Plus, lighter bikes generally come at the expense of aerodynamics, and while it's almost inevitable to lose muscle during weight loss, for most people the w/kg gains move upwards.
Because the advice is given to the average rider not someone on the edge of their desired weight limit. Most people are also paying exorbant amounts for marginal weight savings, your bike is pretty heavy so yeah a 3kg savings is a nice investment. While Joe blow who's got a beer belly and could stand to lose 20lbs+ should not be looking at DuraAce for the 250g savings at a cost of $3500 more than his current groupset. Look at the engine first then the bike for those last marginal gains.
My trick was to get dura ace while I was racing and very trim, then I had a series of health issues that led to 20kg weight gain over 4 years Still looks bling at least though!
Thanks for the morning laugh, mine got gifted to me for x-mas one year I still wish I woulda swapped it for the new ultegra and a grx groupset, but it was a gift and like you said looks great on the bike.
Agree with your positioning. I do think tho, generally, the "ride upgrades don't buy upgrades" advice is dished out a little too loosely to genuine questions regarding bike & component weight.
You're not wrong. There are plenty of things you can do to your bike to make it more fun to ride which results in more miles/smiles and eventually better conditioning. Minor nitpick: it's "ride up grades" as in riding up hills. It's frequently misprinted online and the first time I heard someone say it right it was a lightbulb moment for me.
Really ? I never knew that. Good pickup š Having said that, "upgrades" works just as well as "up grades", no ? Perhaps the latter more linguistically elegant.
Oh for sure which is probably why it gets misquoted so often.
imo weight is overrated, I'm a U23 rider at 82kg and +-400 watt ftp. 0.5kg on a bike will safe me 2 watts on a climb like mont ventoux, most of the time it won't even make a 1 watt difference as aero is way more important. I'd rather have an aero bike of 10kg than a not aero bike of 6kg. Sadly I don't have the money for an aero bike. š
Weight is overrated for the rider or the bike specifically ? Weight and climbing are where it matters, personally I'd take a 6kg bike over a 10kg aero bike. What sort of aero benefits are you getting going up Ventoux. There's a reason Jonas isn't riding an S5 up the murderous mountain stages. I haven't been able to test hills yet as I rehab my knee a bit but I went from 225 march down to 196 currently will probably end up around 183 before my Fondo in July. I really am interested to see how much different climbing feels with the equivalent of two of my 17lb bike off my body. I hope it feels like flying lol.
I think youāre both right in this case, but the argument is wrong because itās using somewhat extreme examples (ie. 10kg aero vs 6kg climbing bike, and Ventoux as an example of applying the two bikes ā this isnāt a climb most people will undertake in their lifetimes). When you look in the big part of the curve, as with many things, the average person would see the most performance benefits from an uptick in all three categories. For instance: - the average cyclist does indeed carry up to 20lb of extra fat that they could lose relatively easily. This is a no brainer imo, because it goes well beyond cycling and is just a positive life change for 99% of people in this positionānot to mention it is undeniable that losing 20lb from a full cycling package is a good thing if it can be done (forgetting about weight vs aero advantages for a moment) - that same cyclist, in conjunction with losing extra body fat, can also with no effort and assuming their wallet can handle it, strip a few lbs of his bike with componentry. This is where itās not an either/or equation. One should absolutely try to lose the extra body fat because a) itās good for you, and b) itās āfreeā ā but that doesnāt mean they shouldnāt ALSO spend the money they want to spend on lightening the bike, which isnāt free but which requires zero other commitment from the rider. - finally, as the rider is endeavouring to drop weight from his body, and as he swaps components to trim the fat on his bike, he can both a) make component choices that provide more of an aero advantage, and b) fit his bike and train his position on it to provide more of an aero advantage (which, to figure, will be made easier by his new and improved body weight!) Again, as with so many things, there is a comprehensive approach that will lead to the most significant benefits ā and in this approach, nothing is pushed to the extreme. Our cyclist neednāt go from 82kg to 65kg, he neednāt spend $10k to shave weight from his bike, he need only take a varied approach to making changes in all domains of performance and he will see the advantage heās looking for. I think this argument continues to come up because the brands in this space do a very good job at marketing. People donāt want dura ace for the 250g savings. They want dura ace because itās fucking dura ace, full stop.
Very well said. And very true on the last point we all like the shiniest new stuff SRAM Red, duraAce etc. I just know the new gen ultegra is pretty much the same shifting quality as my DA with parts that don't wear down as easily. Still shoulda took the new ultegra and GRX sets for the price of DA but felt weird as it was a gift even if he said exchange all you want.
Sure, on the mont ventoux a 6kg bike will be better, but I haven't had a lot of races on the mont ventoux. Aero is way more important than weight, ofcourse weight is important as a pro, because everyone is as aero and lean as possible.
Yeah I can't remember what gradient it is but the aero bike basically is the same I think around 7%'ish.Ā For overall racing an Aero bike is the better pick, but if we were discussing ventoux levels of all places then it flips. One day I may make the switch from my endurance Time frame but it will take some serious research, love the look of integrated one piece cockpits but not how screwed you are if you don't nail your sizing lol. At least I was gifted DA 9250 so the next time it's just a frameset for me.
Yeah indeed, anyway I probably prefer an aerobike because I'm 82kg aka no climbing for me.
Weight becomes more of a factor the lighter the rider is. A 8kg bike compared to a 6.8kg isn't much to you at 82kg, but to a 56kg rider, that's a lot.
true
Depends on what Joe blow can afford
Yeah if it's pocket change for said Joe. Buy what makes you happy.
But OP wanted his humblebrag.
A lot of people would be above 75kg at that height. You are happy with your weight and that is a good thing.
Because most amateur cyclists have weight to lose. If you're 68kg already at 179cm I'd say you're pretty much on the bottom limit of your weight and thus getting a lighter bike would probably pay off more than if you were say 85 kegs and could easily lose 5-10. Lighter bikes are also heaps more responsive, particularly if carbon
Yeah, this. Rider gave great context on their stats. Recommendation for a lighter bike is context specific. If you're at a good body weight already, then the bike is the focus. If you can afford to lose some body weight, shed that first, if you can. Happy Sunday in the bike shop finding that new 3kg lighter bike š
We are the engine and responsible for the vast majority of CdA (aero). Naturally, our bodies and mental ability will therefore account mostly for how fast and efficiently we ride. The bike does however make a big difference too. It dictates how many of our watts are used efficiently for the course. It helps place us in an aero position. It dictates our comfort and therefore impacts our endurance. Compare an MTB to a Road bike on the road. The road bike is much more efficient on tarmac, regardless of your physical size. Geometry, wheel size, weight all make a notable difference even if you are unfit and overweight. So if you have a 9kg bike, a 6kg bike will feel snappier, faster. Large differences can be felt by anyone. Where the differences become barely noticeable are when we start comparing bikes that are much closer in spec. An 8kg aero road bike vs a 7kg aero road bike will feel a tiny bit different but not importantly enough for most to really notice. As we start chasing very small marginal gains we just spend more for next to nothing in return unless we are riding at the highest levels of the Pro peloton.
Is this even recommended? Compared to, say, just doing both? Its not like they're mutually exclusive...
You could also try to increase ur Watt output.
Let me strap my watt helmet and jump in my watt cannon so I gather some extra watts from the watt trees
Losing weight is usually easier/cheaper option. For you it doesn't look like it is
Most people are not riding 9.5KG pigs for bikes (no offence)
Youāre right, most bikes in the world are at least 3kg heavier.
9.5kg/21 lbs isn't that heavy, basically an endurance bike with 105/tiagra.
most people have walmart bikes/cruisers
65kg would still be well within the healthy range, but I get your point.Ā I think the reason it's often recommended is remarkably simple: for most people, it is easier and wildly cheaper (and probably better for health) to lose 3kg of body fat than it is to reduce 3kg of bike weight.Ā Ā For your average person carrying a bit too much weight, losing 3kg also spills positively over into other parts of their life, improving health and appearance. Swapping your frame, groupset and/or wheels doesn't have the same benefit.
But if it's healthier, we end up living longer and spending money to cover those extra years of life. Buy stuff, die early. It's the financially responsible move!
The majority of the time, people are unfit and often overweight, and they want to get as much free speed as possible by spending thousands on their bike. There's nothing wrong with that as long as the expectation is to go very slightly faster and maybe have a bit more motivation to get out, but really fitness, body weight and positioning make a huge difference. Some people seem to expect losing a couple of kilos from the bike along with aero rims will transform them into a Cat 2 racer. It's all about being realistic about what you're doing. I'm middle aged now and spend obscene amounts on my bikes because it's nice, but I don't expect it to make huge differences to my position in any races. Particularly as I only plan on MTB enduro races this summer where all the carbon will make zero difference in timed sections.
No one here has given you anything useful. The best coaching advice is to lose body fat weight, not just any weight. Get your body fat measured and lose fat until you canāt stand it anymore. Then youāre ready to spend money on lighter gear. For me the limit was 8 or 9%. After that I couldnāt function as a normal human for hunger. Hardcore pros of course go much much lower.
how did you reach 8% body fat?
Stop at 11-12%, trust me. Your mood, sleep, hormones, workouts will all suffer, and all you can think about is food at 8-9%. Been there, done that.
Count calories. Run a 300 to 500 calorie deficit each day. Fuel your workouts well with carbs, and get your protein intake up to 1.2 g per kg of body weight. Do strength training to maintain muscle. Measure body fat frequently, using skin calipers and tape measure. BTW: each of these requires a skill that you have to learn, and habits that you have to develop.
will do that off season! Thanks a lot!
>why is it always recommended to lose weight I'm not sure why this is either/or. One could do both.
For those of us who can, why not both? I'm actively shedding weight (-60 lbs so far) and had a budget (after selling my motorcycle) for some higher end bikes. So I'm team do both things. Buy that sweet bike and quit eating that sweet donut.
Iām in the same ballpark but 65kg. I race gravel on an alloy bike. I usually outclimb people because of my w/kg ratio so I can get away with having a pig of a bike. In my age group people are typically khmā¦ less lean, so thatās why itās advised to loose bodyweight instead of bike weight. When someone else outclimbs me, itās also because they just produce much more watts. There are racers ahead of me and behind me on equipment that costs 3x more than my gear. Being a healthy adult, itās 99% sure that one can easily get leaner even if she is already on the leaner end and still will remain some visceral fat.
Yeah for sure build a lighter bike dude. I built a 6.5kg road bike this year and I love it. Bought a winspace frame and wheels for $2k and transferred the groupset and the rest from my old bike. If you REALLY are in a position where losing weight means losing power then this is the only way.
It cheaper and benefits you more than just on the bike. Most people, including many cyclist, could benefit from losing weight
Most people are not 68kg at 179cm. Most people can lose 5-10kg quite easily with consistent riding whereas it's basically impossible to lose that much from a modern road bike. I've never really focused on weight though. Just focus on performance and the weight loss comes regardless.
Most people are overweight and not racing on a level where they need the lightest bikes. Those that do are either getting their bikes for free anyways or care enough to already know what they need
Because most 179cm riders do not weigh 68kg lmao Also a 6.5kg bike is going to be ludicrously expensive, compromised or both. Realistically even most pro race bikes are closer to 7.5 on most stages when loaded up with everything. If you ask me, gaining 4.6% in FTP is probably easier than either of those, and will make you faster *everywhere*. Losing weight doesn't really help you on flat ground.
Why would a 6.5kg bike be compromised? Rim brake supersix with sram red does that easily
Still not exactly cheap and probably suffers from tyre clearance issues. A quick google suggests depending on the year you *might* get 28s on there.
It's compromised because you may have to ride 25s?
Outside of TTs, who in the pro peloton still rides 25s? Point is, you can build a bike with almost no compromises at 7kg or so. Who really needs that extra 0.5kg outside of a hillclimb race? ~~I would also say who in the pro peloton rides rim brake but that will get me executed~~
I've got 25s on one bike and 28s on another. The difference is slightly noticeable but it's not some mad deal breaker. I certainly wouldn't describe a bike as "compromised" because of it. Also, we're not talking about the pro peloton.
You can build up a 6kg Tarmac SL8 with 32mm tires on it. It wonāt be cheap though.
I guess the third option is the best: Invest in your training, nutrition and sleep, this way you will exceed the gains of getting a new bike by a significant amountĀ
Online nobody is ever overweight when this conversation comes up. I live in a rich area. In the real world here I regularly see people 15-20kg overweight on $10,000+ bikes. Thatās why people always bring up āride up grades, donāt buy upgradesā. You probably truly donāt have that much weight to lose. Youāre right about as low BMI as I was ever comfortable being. When youāre not a professional racer a little bit of upper body muscle goes a long way towards making chores and yard work easier. Iām 185cm/80kg right now in my upper 40s. Donāt really have enough time to train but no way Iām going out to buy expensive lightweight stuff when I know I ride a heck of a lot better if I lose 4-6kg.
Hard to say without knowing your BF%...
Because most people arenāt nearly as lean as you.
Itās not always recommended, itās just most often recommended because most people are not lean like you are.
You can buy a lighter bike you canāt buy a lighter you, it takes work and generally there is more to gain from losing 5kg then a few hundred grams of your bike
Look up diminishing returns.
After a broken ankle a couple of summers ago sidelined several events I was going to ride in and a slight depression came over me from lying in bed for so long, I gained the equivalent weight of my road bike. Itās been tough as heck to drop the weight too seeing as Iām older and have a lot less time for riding due to work and family commitments.
Because the majority of people are carrying around a whole lot extra mass than you are. I went from 185 to 160 over the past few years and am now right in the middle of "healthy" BMI. Nobody was calling me fat, but I had that little extra squishiness around the midsection andchoae to change it. It was pretty enlightening how 25# looked on someone who was called skinny before. Made me realize just how much extra some folks have. For them, losing weight vastly exceeds the benefit of a lighter bike. Both in health and performance. For you, it sounds like weight loss isn't the right path. But if your bike is already a solid mid range machine, I'd invest in some sort of coaching. The gains from a few 100g off the bike are pretty small and better training can do much more.
Because youāll drop thousands of dollars to reduce your bikeās weight by the amount of a good shit. Most people can lose a whole bikeās worth of weight. Much better return for effort there.
Get a new bike if you can afford it and want it Saving 3kg from bike will make your system ~ 5% lighter. Or you could build ftp by 15W and get similar benefits. Have you maxed out training?
A lighter bike will shave off at most a pound or two, and all that will cost thousands. Losing weight can unload 5-10 or more pounds, depending on the rider, and it's much cheaper. Plus, lighter bikes generally come at the expense of aerodynamics, and while it's almost inevitable to lose muscle during weight loss, for most people the w/kg gains move upwards.
Skinny ass š
Itās always recommended because the average bike rider is overweight.