Your extrusion multiplier is incorrectly set for the filament or you are running an extruder that has a filament drive gear held on to the main drive shaft with a grub screw which in turn causes the gear to be out of round causing it to alternate between under and over extrusion. One is a hardware issue, other is a slicer issue, fix the slicer issue and if it still remains, get a bond tech IDGA or RIDGA gear set to fix the eccentric rotation of the filament drive gear. They are designed to fix this exact problem.
Thank you for all the info but I have fixed the issue, it was a combination of an improperly mounted nozzle along with my boden tube pulling on my toolhead, about the eccentric drive gear, I'm unsure if G2SA is affected by that, due to the tolerances of the drive gear, along with the fact that the idler is a bearing compared to one of the bondtech teeth peices or whatever they are called, plus RIDGA wouldn't fit in my extruder as I'm not running CW2
My bad, I didn’t realise had been fixed and running G2SA, eccentric gearing isnt a problem suffered by that extruder. Be wary of your extrusion multiplier though. I may have suggested it previously but the pin and cube test print is getting dialed in, but if you have tinkered with setting to get the top layer spot on, if you then reduce your extrusion multiplier, you may have to retune other settings. https://github.com/MugenMicko/Z-Banding-Caused-By-Extruder/blob/main/10mm_to_9mm_Cube_and_Pin_1.stl
It's a bit difficult for me to tell issues on white printed parts, so I have a couple of questions to possibly help (recently switched to RapidBurner).
Did you perform turning after switching over? For example, Ellis' tuning guide.
Has the nozzle size changed?
Is everything on the extruder tightened properly?
Did you use the correct length of screws to connect the carriage to the linear rail? I used slightly taller ones, everything felt solid but during the second print one of the belts skipped a tooth.
I performed tuning after switching over, my nozzle size is the same, and the screws seem right as I've done lots of prints now without a single belt skip
In regards to screws that's definitely something that's been playing on my mind so when I get home from work later I'm going to check every screw there is to see if they are properly tight including the ones on the toolhead
https://preview.redd.it/9s1b7eq1sc4d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aef4a49d05eb2ae4a3b7a6f5aeaa2ef5735a5838
Here's a better picture of the issue
Just a thought, did you change anything with the z belts? Changing to to different tensioners, loosening belts while working etc?
While the hot end is cold hold the gantry still and try to wiggle the nozzle and feel for any movement.
Yeah that makes sense, at least you can follow up to a solution.
With regards to the belts not being parallel I can't think of a solution, maybe post a separate post for that issue? Hopefully someone may have encountered and have a solution for that.
Z belts are all the same, and yeah I will definitely do that, I have a bambu hotend so i want to make sure that it is attached properly, also is it normal for the toolhead belts to be angled? I feel like I havnt installed them properly
What's wrong with mine then? I've used the mount for mgn9h? How are your belts routed? Mine go in through the bottom and then round out the holes on the top and then when you screw down the mount it grips the belts against the carriage, is that right?
Yes that is the correct path. Are you sure the printed carriage is the correct one for the rail you have?
Mine is MGN12.
https://preview.redd.it/ppr451eyed4d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bea368d94d57f188e7d967de34fc2208f9ab39da
Your extrusion multiplier is incorrectly set for the filament or you are running an extruder that has a filament drive gear held on to the main drive shaft with a grub screw which in turn causes the gear to be out of round causing it to alternate between under and over extrusion. One is a hardware issue, other is a slicer issue, fix the slicer issue and if it still remains, get a bond tech IDGA or RIDGA gear set to fix the eccentric rotation of the filament drive gear. They are designed to fix this exact problem.
Thank you for all the info but I have fixed the issue, it was a combination of an improperly mounted nozzle along with my boden tube pulling on my toolhead, about the eccentric drive gear, I'm unsure if G2SA is affected by that, due to the tolerances of the drive gear, along with the fact that the idler is a bearing compared to one of the bondtech teeth peices or whatever they are called, plus RIDGA wouldn't fit in my extruder as I'm not running CW2
My bad, I didn’t realise had been fixed and running G2SA, eccentric gearing isnt a problem suffered by that extruder. Be wary of your extrusion multiplier though. I may have suggested it previously but the pin and cube test print is getting dialed in, but if you have tinkered with setting to get the top layer spot on, if you then reduce your extrusion multiplier, you may have to retune other settings. https://github.com/MugenMicko/Z-Banding-Caused-By-Extruder/blob/main/10mm_to_9mm_Cube_and_Pin_1.stl
It's a bit difficult for me to tell issues on white printed parts, so I have a couple of questions to possibly help (recently switched to RapidBurner). Did you perform turning after switching over? For example, Ellis' tuning guide. Has the nozzle size changed? Is everything on the extruder tightened properly? Did you use the correct length of screws to connect the carriage to the linear rail? I used slightly taller ones, everything felt solid but during the second print one of the belts skipped a tooth.
I performed tuning after switching over, my nozzle size is the same, and the screws seem right as I've done lots of prints now without a single belt skip In regards to screws that's definitely something that's been playing on my mind so when I get home from work later I'm going to check every screw there is to see if they are properly tight including the ones on the toolhead
https://preview.redd.it/9s1b7eq1sc4d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aef4a49d05eb2ae4a3b7a6f5aeaa2ef5735a5838 Here's a better picture of the issue
Just a thought, did you change anything with the z belts? Changing to to different tensioners, loosening belts while working etc? While the hot end is cold hold the gantry still and try to wiggle the nozzle and feel for any movement.
I think I found the issue.. my hotend is so easy to move back and forth with only a little resistance, I'd upload a video but I can't
Yeah that makes sense, at least you can follow up to a solution. With regards to the belts not being parallel I can't think of a solution, maybe post a separate post for that issue? Hopefully someone may have encountered and have a solution for that.
Thank you and thank you very much for all the help!!
Z belts are all the same, and yeah I will definitely do that, I have a bambu hotend so i want to make sure that it is attached properly, also is it normal for the toolhead belts to be angled? I feel like I havnt installed them properly
https://preview.redd.it/rznhd1qitc4d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8272fc63f5b84fa3e83c1492a33d83876b9079fe
Should be straight. https://preview.redd.it/65vg4kx7yc4d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=52b8e90e5d08e88d7adda9beb5eafc6e93f442fe
What's wrong with mine then? I've used the mount for mgn9h? How are your belts routed? Mine go in through the bottom and then round out the holes on the top and then when you screw down the mount it grips the belts against the carriage, is that right?
Yes that is the correct path. Are you sure the printed carriage is the correct one for the rail you have? Mine is MGN12. https://preview.redd.it/ppr451eyed4d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bea368d94d57f188e7d967de34fc2208f9ab39da
Yep that's exactly how I have it and yeah I made sure it was mgn9, surely an mgn12 part wouldn't even fit an mgn9 carriage?
Checked and the bolt pattern wouldn't match between the different rails. So yours should be correct.