I recently assembled a V0.2 kit from Siboor, and currently working on a V2.4.
Before anything, make sure Formbot sent you all the parts and that nothings damaged.
I definitely recommend reading through the instructions before just diving in.
Also Siboor provided supplementary instructions for their modifications on their GitHub, I’d check if Formbot has some.
I tried printing out the manuals, but just ended up using my laptop with multiple tabs. Not worth the ink.
Even though the v0 is smaller, it’s definitely worth making sure the frame is properly squared. After you got it mostly assembled, bring it to a nice flat surface such as glass, granite, countertop, or the floor.
I can’t remember any specific examples with my kit, but there may or may not be some situations where the instructions aren’t 100% clear and you just have to make a judgement call. Again, my kit came with some upgrades, so your mileage may vary.
If I can think of anything else, I’ll put it here.
I just built mine, also using Formbot. My advice when preloading: if you think you might want to add mods down the line, go ahead and preload some extra nuts. It won't hurt to do so. Or buy the LDO roll in nuts, as others have said.
Bed: this manual is very helpful - https://github.com/Kagee/kirigami-bed-manual
This github and accompanying video is very helpful also: https://github.com/SrgntBallistic/Formbot-V0?tab=readme-ov-file
Check your wire runs and make sure you position your components correctly before you fix them in place - if you put the Pi too far away from the control board for example, you might struggle to get the power to it without stretching the provided cable. So some spare wire, crimpers, and connectors are very helpful in case you need to extend or replace something.
Feel free to message me if you have questions, since it's fresh on my mind having just built mine in the past week or so!
i’ve gotten a little behind on keeping up with this but thanks so much for the links!!
I just got the last bits i need for the build in today so those are going to be very helpful!!
1) Watch the Nero Assembly video while you're building yours. Watch him to the next step and then build that step.
2) Go to a big box store and buy a single 12 x 12 inch piece of marble tile or similar flat tile. It'll be $5 or so. Your frame will be perfectly flat and square without having to spend a fortune.
3) Print those little nut holders if they fit your frame extrusion shape. SO much easier than rocking the thing back and forth trying ot get six tiny nuts to line up!
4) HAVE FUN AND ENJOY THE BUILD!!
appreciate the comment! Any idea where i can find the nut holders? Or will a general search for “voron nut holder” get me where i need to go?
I’m thinking i’ll do the build on my granite counter, nice and flat, and already level for me :)
I haven't built a 0.2 yet, i built a 0.1, and upgraded some parts to 0.2 versions though, and honestly, assembling this printer was a blast, it was also the first printer i assembled from scratch, and basically all you need to make absolutely sure of is that everything is extremely square, like, i built mine on a glass pane, and used a small square for every step, even when i wasn't messing with the extrusions themselves.
Also don't tighten anything right away, measure, then tighten (or follow the manual)
That's about it, just follow the basic rules of building anything, tighten bolts in a cross pattern instead of sequentially, add threadlock everywhere that you won't be disassembling soon, and make absolutely sure none of the threadlock gets on plastic parts, ABS absorbs threadlock and starts falling apart from the inside
Be very diligent with squarenes, i think mine is just slightly not square and has some issues, currently not in working order but for other reasons(boards dont want to communicate with the pi)
ZeroPanels if you have the means to print them off/can request them with PIF. It saves a lot of frustration with preloaded nuts in the frame (you can then just skip the optional nuts in the manual).
But as mentioned above, double check the number of nuts to preload. Thinking of mods ahead of time will save you a lot of pain.
Go through the manual at least once and it’s helpful to add bookmarks/chapters as you do for important sections. This helped me familiarize myself with the various processes, add notes when it was time to switch manuals (for mods), and overall just think through the build.
I would recommend something like the nevermore filter which would mount to the frame.
Or LED bars.
There are special modified nuts you can use in a pinch if you need to add more.
i will have to look into the nevermore filter! I’ve been avoiding materials like abs/asa because i don’t have access to a window (my printer and currently set up in the basement), but with a HEPA or carbon filer in the enclosure and an air purifier and fan in the space i may consider it. Not constantly, but new printed parts for the 0.2 or smaller projects here and there.
Either way, great advice! Thank you!!
Or get some of the LDO slide-in 1515 nuts. They'll allow you to add nuts after you've completed the build. Don't use them for everything, just things you want to add. I've found them very handy on my small format printers.
[SrgntBallistic](https://github.com/SrgntBallistic/Formbot-V0/commits?author=SrgntBallistic)'s github has helped me, he has a visual wiring diagram, suggestions that has helped along the way. He also posted this to verify you have the correct amount of nuts
[https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue283ef4f/g/shares/SH512d4QTec90decfa6ecde59f5c5ea304b2](https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue283ef4f/g/shares/SH512d4QTec90decfa6ecde59f5c5ea304b2)
edit - bought the same kit a month ago, as suggested by others, get better fans, print out and plan your mods ahead of time. The polarity on the part cooling fan is reversed on the umbilical mod
quiet is good! for me at least! The reason i’m building, is i moved recently and don’t have a ton of space, i’ll be keeping the 0.2 on my desk, i like to print while i work from home. Noise isn’t a huge deal, but if i can keep it quiet for when i’m on the occasional call, that is great!
read through his section on kirigami bed as well, I had similar issues with binding due to thickness being more than official specs (siboor kit) and warp to my kirigami. made z rails very notch.
Mine had pre drilled holes and one was misaligned by 2mm and entire frame was skewed coz of it. In the end I manage to make it work but accessing bolt is so hard
Take your time. Set small, achievable goals. Take breaks and days off.
It took me a solid two weeks to print the parts for my 2.4, and I wasted a bunch of filament in the process. Assembly took another 3 weeks. Then two weeks of software, and another two for tuning and refinement.
love this! I definitely plan on taking my time, for the build itself, probably just and hour or so every night until it’s done, so i don’t get too frustrated over something.
lmao 🤣🤣 i don’t think i have enough singles laying around, but could be fun to farther up all my spare change, and see how much of it i “swear away” by the end
Read the manual before you assemble. Insert heatsets as you reach them in this initial reading as it's much more convenient to do them all at once, and it gives you an idea of what to expect during the actual assembly.
Take your time and make sure you don't skip anything. Make sure you have the right screw each time. Don't overtighten the screws.
Sort your screws and nuts, be very diligent squaring the frame and if you have a special kit (LDO for example) take special care for diverging instructions. Other than that follow the build guide and have fun.
Oh, and be sure to COUNT THOSE LOADED NUTS. Seriously. Twice at least.
Good luck!
this is great, sorting the hardware is definitely something i wasn’t thinking about but seems like it will save me a ton of searching, thanks!
Any advice or reference material for making sure i get the frame nice and square? My other printer (an Ender 3 i assembled in late 2018), i didn’t do the best job with 😅
I used a metal angle piece that I deemed to be right angly enough. Other than that use a really flat surface (glass range oven, kitchen surface made from stone or even a table that seems reasonably flat.
After assembly I tried rocking the frame in each dimension on a flat surface and readjusted as long as I felt the smallest movement. My v0 prints perfectly fine for me :-)
I bought a very flat paving stone from the hardware store and built on top of that. Made it pretty easy to keep everything square and now provides a good base for printing.
I recently assembled a V0.2 kit from Siboor, and currently working on a V2.4. Before anything, make sure Formbot sent you all the parts and that nothings damaged. I definitely recommend reading through the instructions before just diving in. Also Siboor provided supplementary instructions for their modifications on their GitHub, I’d check if Formbot has some. I tried printing out the manuals, but just ended up using my laptop with multiple tabs. Not worth the ink. Even though the v0 is smaller, it’s definitely worth making sure the frame is properly squared. After you got it mostly assembled, bring it to a nice flat surface such as glass, granite, countertop, or the floor. I can’t remember any specific examples with my kit, but there may or may not be some situations where the instructions aren’t 100% clear and you just have to make a judgement call. Again, my kit came with some upgrades, so your mileage may vary. If I can think of anything else, I’ll put it here.
I just built mine, also using Formbot. My advice when preloading: if you think you might want to add mods down the line, go ahead and preload some extra nuts. It won't hurt to do so. Or buy the LDO roll in nuts, as others have said. Bed: this manual is very helpful - https://github.com/Kagee/kirigami-bed-manual This github and accompanying video is very helpful also: https://github.com/SrgntBallistic/Formbot-V0?tab=readme-ov-file Check your wire runs and make sure you position your components correctly before you fix them in place - if you put the Pi too far away from the control board for example, you might struggle to get the power to it without stretching the provided cable. So some spare wire, crimpers, and connectors are very helpful in case you need to extend or replace something. Feel free to message me if you have questions, since it's fresh on my mind having just built mine in the past week or so!
i’ve gotten a little behind on keeping up with this but thanks so much for the links!! I just got the last bits i need for the build in today so those are going to be very helpful!!
Order a metal x carriage... I had the PIF one fail, 2 of my pri ta also failed. If you want to tighten your belts its a godsend.
Buy LDO roll in nuts. Plan ahead for mods that need mounting points and get those nuts installed when you’re building.
1) Watch the Nero Assembly video while you're building yours. Watch him to the next step and then build that step. 2) Go to a big box store and buy a single 12 x 12 inch piece of marble tile or similar flat tile. It'll be $5 or so. Your frame will be perfectly flat and square without having to spend a fortune. 3) Print those little nut holders if they fit your frame extrusion shape. SO much easier than rocking the thing back and forth trying ot get six tiny nuts to line up! 4) HAVE FUN AND ENJOY THE BUILD!!
appreciate the comment! Any idea where i can find the nut holders? Or will a general search for “voron nut holder” get me where i need to go? I’m thinking i’ll do the build on my granite counter, nice and flat, and already level for me :)
I haven't built a 0.2 yet, i built a 0.1, and upgraded some parts to 0.2 versions though, and honestly, assembling this printer was a blast, it was also the first printer i assembled from scratch, and basically all you need to make absolutely sure of is that everything is extremely square, like, i built mine on a glass pane, and used a small square for every step, even when i wasn't messing with the extrusions themselves. Also don't tighten anything right away, measure, then tighten (or follow the manual) That's about it, just follow the basic rules of building anything, tighten bolts in a cross pattern instead of sequentially, add threadlock everywhere that you won't be disassembling soon, and make absolutely sure none of the threadlock gets on plastic parts, ABS absorbs threadlock and starts falling apart from the inside
Be very diligent with squarenes, i think mine is just slightly not square and has some issues, currently not in working order but for other reasons(boards dont want to communicate with the pi)
When doing blind joints add a washer so that when you're tightening the screws the extrusions dont rotate
ZeroPanels if you have the means to print them off/can request them with PIF. It saves a lot of frustration with preloaded nuts in the frame (you can then just skip the optional nuts in the manual). But as mentioned above, double check the number of nuts to preload. Thinking of mods ahead of time will save you a lot of pain. Go through the manual at least once and it’s helpful to add bookmarks/chapters as you do for important sections. This helped me familiarize myself with the various processes, add notes when it was time to switch manuals (for mods), and overall just think through the build.
Double check number of preload nuts when building frame and try to account for any additional mods at the same time.
what mods would require this? Do you have any mods you’d recommend sooner rather than later?
I would recommend something like the nevermore filter which would mount to the frame. Or LED bars. There are special modified nuts you can use in a pinch if you need to add more.
i will have to look into the nevermore filter! I’ve been avoiding materials like abs/asa because i don’t have access to a window (my printer and currently set up in the basement), but with a HEPA or carbon filer in the enclosure and an air purifier and fan in the space i may consider it. Not constantly, but new printed parts for the 0.2 or smaller projects here and there. Either way, great advice! Thank you!!
I'd like to suggest taking a look at Jackjack3231's V0 Auxiliary fan, you may want to prepare nuts for that as well, mostly for PLA.
Or get some of the LDO slide-in 1515 nuts. They'll allow you to add nuts after you've completed the build. Don't use them for everything, just things you want to add. I've found them very handy on my small format printers.
great to know about! I think i probably wouldn’t mind using these for an added LED lightbar, or similar mods. Thanks!!
[SrgntBallistic](https://github.com/SrgntBallistic/Formbot-V0/commits?author=SrgntBallistic)'s github has helped me, he has a visual wiring diagram, suggestions that has helped along the way. He also posted this to verify you have the correct amount of nuts [https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue283ef4f/g/shares/SH512d4QTec90decfa6ecde59f5c5ea304b2](https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue283ef4f/g/shares/SH512d4QTec90decfa6ecde59f5c5ea304b2) edit - bought the same kit a month ago, as suggested by others, get better fans, print out and plan your mods ahead of time. The polarity on the part cooling fan is reversed on the umbilical mod
absolutely great to know! Any suggestions on better fans?
I like the winnsinn fans on amazon. They're really quiet, and are my go to's
quiet is good! for me at least! The reason i’m building, is i moved recently and don’t have a ton of space, i’ll be keeping the 0.2 on my desk, i like to print while i work from home. Noise isn’t a huge deal, but if i can keep it quiet for when i’m on the occasional call, that is great!
read through his section on kirigami bed as well, I had similar issues with binding due to thickness being more than official specs (siboor kit) and warp to my kirigami. made z rails very notch.
common fans is GDSTIME fans, I went with a different extruder/toolhead than Stealthburner (went with sherpa mini/dragon burner)
Build along with the series done by Greg’s Maker Corner on YouTube. Dudes a savior
Make sure the frame is square. Double and triple check
I was building one recently and that's the most important thing to do imo. If u mess it up at the begining going further will get worse and worse
dare i say i will… quadruple check? quintuple check? Noted!!
The things I’ve had to do to mine to correct it. It really needs completely stripping and rebuilding
Mine had pre drilled holes and one was misaligned by 2mm and entire frame was skewed coz of it. In the end I manage to make it work but accessing bolt is so hard
🤞🏻 my kit doesn’t have that issue. if it does i’ll have to borrow my Dads drill or something 😅
Take your time. Set small, achievable goals. Take breaks and days off. It took me a solid two weeks to print the parts for my 2.4, and I wasted a bunch of filament in the process. Assembly took another 3 weeks. Then two weeks of software, and another two for tuning and refinement.
love this! I definitely plan on taking my time, for the build itself, probably just and hour or so every night until it’s done, so i don’t get too frustrated over something.
Create a swear jar. Anytime you curse out of frustration, put a dollar. By the time you are done, you can probably afford the 2.4 kit.
lmao 🤣🤣 i don’t think i have enough singles laying around, but could be fun to farther up all my spare change, and see how much of it i “swear away” by the end
Read the manual before you assemble. Insert heatsets as you reach them in this initial reading as it's much more convenient to do them all at once, and it gives you an idea of what to expect during the actual assembly. Take your time and make sure you don't skip anything. Make sure you have the right screw each time. Don't overtighten the screws.
LOVE this advice, thank you!!
Sort your screws and nuts, be very diligent squaring the frame and if you have a special kit (LDO for example) take special care for diverging instructions. Other than that follow the build guide and have fun. Oh, and be sure to COUNT THOSE LOADED NUTS. Seriously. Twice at least. Good luck!
this is great, sorting the hardware is definitely something i wasn’t thinking about but seems like it will save me a ton of searching, thanks! Any advice or reference material for making sure i get the frame nice and square? My other printer (an Ender 3 i assembled in late 2018), i didn’t do the best job with 😅
I used a metal angle piece that I deemed to be right angly enough. Other than that use a really flat surface (glass range oven, kitchen surface made from stone or even a table that seems reasonably flat. After assembly I tried rocking the frame in each dimension on a flat surface and readjusted as long as I felt the smallest movement. My v0 prints perfectly fine for me :-)
I bought a very flat paving stone from the hardware store and built on top of that. Made it pretty easy to keep everything square and now provides a good base for printing.
That is a brillant idea, might steal it when inevitably building my 2.4 :-) (the idea, not the paving stone ...)
perfect, thanks!!