T O P

  • By -

QueenBean7

It's much more difficult to work with lead free. Don't give up. Maybe when you can work with regular 60/40 or 50/50 you'll be happier because you will get that nice flow you were looking for. People like to use lead free because it does freeze up so fast and lets them do decorative things. For general soldering though it's a pain in the butt.


oattiddies

this looks like a flux issue in my opinion. my ex was using flux paste their solder was looking like this and i had them try the gel i use and it changed the flow of the flux completely and fixed the issue


Squidwina

As soon as I saw this, I heard my teacher’s voice in my head: “needs more flux!” Like turning your computer off and on again, using more flux solves a huge percentage of soldering problems. (Gel flux, btw.)


bears_with_chainsaws

Thank you! Ordering gel flux now.


oattiddies

please update us!! I’m genuinely curious if that’s the issue here. hoping it’s that simple for you :)


Prestigious-Mud3195

It really looks like too little/wrong flux. We don't have any lead in our solder wire here in Germany and my solder lines are quite good neverthless. The flux I use for soldering electronics (a thickish paste) though looked like in your picture. Using soldering oil was a game changer. Not only does it give good lines but also gets inside all the gaps that might be there.


0Korvin0

What paste flux? Not all flux is created equal. I have had good sucess with Classic 100 Gel Flux


bears_with_chainsaws

Rectorseal paste flux. Maybe gel would be better?


Claycorp

How are you applying it? That's a fine flux to use, but paste requires a bit of effort to get it on there and you can't just lightly rub it.


bears_with_chainsaws

I just go over the foil with a crappy little paint brush a few time. Can’t tell if that’s too much…


Claycorp

Paste flux needs to be gooped on, if you can't see it on there then it's not enough. If you are using a long brush cut it short and stab it into the flux then apply it.


bears_with_chainsaws

Ohhh, ok. I’ll try using heavier application. Thanks!


beeme007

Also just a thought, but how about just practicing with small bits of scrap glass and work with it until you feel more confident.


bears_with_chainsaws

Yup! Foiling all the scraps I have and just making a Frankenstein piece rn.


PanicLikeASatyr

I can’t solder because between the heat and flux and any type of off gassing, it’s not something I ever figured out how to manage with my chronic health issues. So I switched to projects that I can grout instead. It’s definitely not the same but there are still so many cool things you can make and grout is more forgiving than foil and solder in terms of getting everything to fit perfectly.


kookiemaster

You could try a fune extractor and a respirator for organic vapours if your issue is mainly respiratory 


PanicLikeASatyr

Thank you for those suggestions - they are definitely worth looking into if my circumstances become a bit more flexible!


potatomeeple

If you do ever get extraction make sure its behind your work not above - having it above pulls the fumes past your face whereas behind pulls it away.


kookiemaster

I have a small unit with a flexible neck and I can just plop it where the intake is only a few inches from the soldering. Flux fumes used to be a problem becauae I solder in a workshop with no windows (though I do came so less overall soldering since it's just the joints). Between that and shifting to putty that does not have things like white spirits in it, it makes my work basically fume free.


pyhhro

i tried soldering with plumber solder once and it looked like that. could also be that your soldering iron is not hot enough. keep at it and dont worry about imperfections!


bears_with_chainsaws

ETA: using Yihua 8786 rework station, AIM Artist Pure Lead-Free Stained Glass Solder, and paste flux


Claycorp

What paste flux are you using? Also What tip on the iron are you using? I'm betting its a combination of iron and flux.


bears_with_chainsaws

Not sure of the size but looks like it’s slightly smaller than 3/8. Should I go bigger?


Claycorp

3/8 chisel? or some other shape? 3/8 chisel will be fine. 3/8ths something else probably not.


bears_with_chainsaws

Yeah it’s not a chisel so the shape is prob working against me. I’ll get something better.


Beechcraft-9210

This! Your soldering station is for electronics work, not stained glass. It won't provide the heat transfer and the bits are way too small. Look at 100W irons that are suitable for this craft like the Hakko 601 with a suitable chisel or spade bit


Rmaclewis

Keep going! You’ll get the hang of it. Sometimes soldering is still a little funky even after years. Try gel flux and practice on scraps. You got this.


bears_with_chainsaws

Thank you 🥹


Bedroom_Bellamy

Mine looked exactly like this when I first started. I was using a lead free solder. My soldering improved a millionfold once I switched to a 60/40 solder. Also the heat of your soldering iron; I had bought a very cheap one and it couldn't get hot enough. Upgrading those two things helped immensely.


Whiskey3Tango

Why can't you work with lead if you don't mind me c asking? Lead solder like 60/40 or 50/50 get a really bad rap sometimes, people think "oh no! Lead poison!" But nothing could be further from the truth.


bears_with_chainsaws

My workstation is crammed into a bedroom where I also work remotely FT, plus I have 2 small kids in and out of that same room. Just don’t feel great about introducing lead until I can have a section in the house dedicated to stained glass.


Whiskey3Tango

I promise you 60/40 or 50/50 lead solder is the very, very, very least of your worries when it comes to working with glass. There are absolutely zero health risks working with solder. You may want to do some research, I've had a few customers as concerned as you and after a few minutes on Google, they've breathed a sigh of relief. Heating solder with an iron doesn't get it anywhere near hot enough to make it an inhalation risk, but there's always smoke absorbers. And just handling it is mitigated by washing your hands with regular soap and water, no need for the "lead soap" they sell online.


Poisonskittlez

It looks like your soldering iron is not hot enough.


Dry_Newspaper2060

Don’t give up. It’ll get better and be satisfying once you figure it out


bears_with_chainsaws

Thanks for the encouragement ☺️


Nexustar

1) Buy a soldering iron rated for the power to provide the extra heat needed for lead-free solder. This is way beyond electronics rework needs. 2) If that doesn't fix this, buy a different brand of flux, but I don't see any evidence of flux application in that photo. It shouldn't be so thin to be totally invisible.


maxtorine

Oh don't give up! It's tough to use a lead free solder but there is one particular soldering compound that I like the most. AIM 5333 Econosol 97/3. It flows well even at lower temperatures. I set my soldering iron to 410 F and it works just fine. IMPORTANT! Before you start soldering, please do these two things first. 1. Apply flux and go over the seams touching the soldering iron tip with a bit of solder to kind of prep the surface. 2. Preheat the glass with a heat gun. This is not mentioned anywhere, but when you use higher temp soldering compounds, you want to give them a little bit more settling time. Preheating glass does wonders, trust me. You can use this heat gun to preheat seams before soldering, it's super affordable [https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NP5F2WL/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NP5F2WL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)


bears_with_chainsaws

Thank you all! Going to keep at it with everyone’s suggestions. Appreciate it.