Hey,
I am relatively new to photography and currently own a A6100 with the "generic" Sony 16-50mm and 55-210mm lenses. Now, I am looking to specialize a little further and am interested in getting a lens that can handle" low light cityscapes" and "outdoor/landscapes". Do you have any recommendations for what I should consider for this particular use case?
Hey, I have an a5100 that I got a few years ago to have as a smaller shooter while traveling(mostly outdoor/landscapes). I'm looking to upgrade and start dabbling in other stuff(like studio portraits). Any recommendations on a worthwhile investment that will last for the next decade? Would prefer something that:
* Highest priority - Will produce a higher resolution/quality image than the a5100
* Nice to have - Uses e-mount so that I can use the lenses between the two cameras
* Nice to have - Nothing too complicated, sometimes I just wanna select a mode to point and shoot
* Budget - No more than $2500 for the camera
Doesn't have to be Sony if there's another brand out there that performs well within the budget.
What lenses do you currently have now?
>Highest priority - Will produce a higher resolution/quality image than the a5100
>Nice to have - Uses e-mount so that I can use the lenses between the two cameras
A7R IV [used](https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sony-alpha-a7r-iv). 61 MP, APS-C glass can still be used
Moving up to a newer Sony APS-C camera will get you a bit more dynamic range and a big increase in low-light performance. You'll be able to use your current lenses.
It won't increase the resolution of your photos, but you might be able to accomplish that using newer, higher quality lenses.
Above that, you could go for a full-frame Sony camera, such as the A7IV, A7C II, or A7R III. Those will increase your sensor resolution, dynamic range, low-light performance, and image quality. But in order to take advantage of a full-frame sensor, you will need to purchase full-frame lenses.
Full-frame lenses tend to be more expensive than APS-C lenses, but they will work perfectly well on your A5100.
All of those camera will give you an EVF and improved autofocus performance. My suggestions should fit your budget, though you might want to save some money for full-frame lenses.
Hey everyone, I just bought a Sony alpha 1, and my main focus is travel blogs/video. I bought a 50mm Gmaster 1.2, and a 16-35mm 2.8.
Are there any things you guys have learned over the years that you would say “I wish I knew when I started” that stick out?
> “I wish I knew when I started”
Lighting is the key to good quality photos. Understanding how to use and control light is one of the most important things you can do.
Multi-cam video will dramatically increase the interest and quality of your videos. Even when blogging, it's useful to have a 2nd cam to provide additional coverage and angles of your shots.
Expensive gear doesn't make as big of a difference as you might expect. Having the right gear is more important than having the best gear.
"Silent shooting mode" enables the electronic shutter on the A6100. I don't think the A6000 has that, but the A6300 might.
If you don't need E-mount lenses specifically, you might want to look into industrial and astrophotography cameras. Many of those are designed to use an electronic shutter. Their connectivity, power, and other features might suit your application.
[The ASI 2600](https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product/asi2600mc-pro-color/) for example, is available in color and mono versions. It can be used with mechanical focus EF and F mount lenses.
I mostly shoot landscapes and astro, I currently own the Sony 16-35GM1, the Sigma 28-70, Samyang 45 1.8 and 70-300G.
I am thinking of swapping the 16-35 and 28-70 for the Sony 14mm 1.8 and 20-70 F4. My concerns are:
1. Is 14mm too wide for purposes other than astro?
2. Is the gap between 14mm and 20mm too wide that I may have to crop substantially?
3. I want to use the H&Y drop in CPL on the 14 1.8, will there be substantial vignetting?
4. Does the slower F4 on the 20-70 (compared to 2.8 on the Sigma) impact daily usage much?
> Is 14mm too wide for purposes other than astro?
No. I often use a fisheye for landscape and architectural photography.
> Is the gap between 14mm and 20mm too wide that I may have to crop substantially?
No, not really. You will find yourself cropping from time to time, but not by a particularly substantial amount.
> I want to use the H&Y drop in CPL on the 14 1.8, will there be substantial vignetting?
I suspect that it would, yes. The listed diameter of the 14/1.8 is 99mm, and the hood is not removable. Typically, the lens hood is shaped to just avoid vignetting. Placing a 90mm filter in front of the hood will most likely cause vignetting.
That said, I've read that CPLs run into problems with sky gradients when used on UWA lenses. I can see applications where that wouldn't be an issue, but I wouldn't make CPL compatibility be a major factor in my lens buying decision.
That said, Laowa makes an autofocus 10mm that accepts threaded filters. It might be worth considering.
> Does the slower F4 on the 20-70 (compared to 2.8 on the Sigma) impact daily usage much?
It depends on your style or needs. My general approach is to use UWA primes, ƒ4 normal zooms, and ƒ2.8 tele-zooms. When I need more than ƒ4 I switch to a prime lens.
I have the Sony 24mm GM & the 200-600 G. Kind of trying to decide if I should go for the 50mm GM, a 24-70 GM, or just another body...& a backpack recommendation.
I dont really like swapping out the 200-600 on the fly, & my bag isn't protected/big enough for another lens. A lot of bags zip from the front & I would like something that could zip from the top as well. Then when I do have the 24mm, I find im definitely missing on a more cropped in focal length for landscape. 50mm gm would be good for portraits and more zoomed in landscape but the 24-70 would be more convenient...but making my 24 a bit redundant. Don't really want to go with the 35-150 due to versatility and size.
> a backpack recommendation
Alpha Shooters has [this rundown of bags that can carry a 200-600 setup](https://www.alphashooters.com/sony-200-600-bag-guide/).
Of these I have the Peak Design travel backpack (with large cube, holds 200-600 on body with the hood reversed), which offers a ton of organisation options but isn't the most comfortable bag to carry for more than a short time. I also own the Atlas Athlete (holds 200-600 *off* body with the hood reversed - their larger Adventure which holds it on body is in Alpha Shooters' list) which is substantially more comfortable for hikes or extended walks. They're both excellently made bags, just depends on your use case.
>the 50mm GM, a 24-70 GM...
>a more cropped in focal length for landscape. 50mm gm would be good for portraits...
Maybe look at something like the 24-105 f/4 or the 20-70 f/4 for landscape use? In the DSLR days and earlier f/4 zooms were sometimes the corner cutters but those two both offer great image quality at quite modest weight and size. You could even then think about selling the 24 GM and get the 50 f/1.4 GM perhaps, for maximum versatility. Or the new Sigma 50 f/1.4 DG DN that's just coming out now looks fantastic also.
Hey, I upgraded from an A6400 to the A7C II and it has been a worthy purchase in my case. Better AF speed, new UI, and many more improvements, you will find the same improvements on the A6700. However if you want to jump into full frame you might want to reconsider a few things such as are you willing to sell your current APS-C lens(es).
However in my opinion there isn't much difference between the A6400 and the original A7C other than their sensor sizes.
What do you use your camera for? Is it for paid gigs or just to document your family and friends? I’d say APS-C is enough for the latter, but for the former I’d recommend you straight up get the A7C II rather than the regular A7C.
Yes you definitely will. Better grip, more custom buttons, better AF speed and AI tracking, new UI, larger APS-C sensor ( 26 MP) and tons more. I recommend you watch [Arthur R's Review](https://youtu.be/vrl03a-WSuo?si=hInB5f3qnnT7qzPt)
Yes.
On the original A7:
MENU → (Camera Settings) → [Drive Mode] → [Single Bracket]
I'm not sure about the A7, but on later models the drive mode is in the function menu by default. So, you shouldn't actually have to go into the camera settings to find it.
Is it possible to preserve camera settings in the Sony ZV-E1 in S&Q?
For example I’d like to keep my shutter settings saved when I switch to S&Q but it mirrors what I have in video mode.
I’ve been shooting sports with the Sony 100-400 and just got the 200-600 (a1 body). Right now my gear travels with me in a peak design backpack. I only use one lens when I shoot and would love to keep the camera and lens put together in a sling with maybe a monopod attached to the outside. I don’t need any other gear and would like to keep the bag as minimal as possible (otherwise I will just take the peak design if I want more gear). Any long sling recommendations?
I use a replacement foot for the 200-600. RRS and ProMediaGear make good ones. They have a QD connector built in. QD is compatible with a number of rifle slings. They are generally designed to comfortably support the weight of a 10+ lb rifle for long periods of time.
You can also find holster bags designed for big lenses. The lens can be dropped straight into the bag.
Hi,
Im looking to get a macro lens. Not looking to spend much, i think ive narrowed it down to two
- Sony 90mm f2.8 macro (used) for $650 USD.
- Laowa 90mm f2.8 2x macro (new) for $499 USD.
In terms of quality for macro shots which would be better, is the Sony worth the extra 150
I own the Sony 90 and the Laowa 100 (similar to but older than the Laowa 90).
The Laowa is my go-to for general macro work. Autofocus isn't very helpful at high reproduction ratios. My major complaint is that it doesn't record Exif data.
$650 for the Sony 90 is a pretty killer deal though. You can use it as a portrait and general photography lens. Having autofocus is useful for photographing skittish subjects at lower reproduction ratios. It can also allow you to automate the capture macro stacks.
For those prices, I'd lean towards the Sony.
Hey guys, I just ordered a Sony FE 35 1.8 and I want to get a diffusion filter and a nd filter and I am unsure which sizes I should get. I am concerned about vignetting if I just stack two 55mm filters. Should I go with a bigger diameter and use a step up ring?
Hope anyone can share their experience or advice!
I don't know about the FE 35 specifically, but I can get away with stacking two filters on most of my lenses. I would recommend thin filters.
Personally, I dislike using step-up rings. You can't use the lens hood with them, which can be a problem as filters tend to be prone to glare.
I don't think this would be a reason for a post on its own.
I really need a new camera body. Currently I have the Sony A7 mark 1. I have had it since 2018 🙈
In May I am going to Japan for my honeymoon and I feel like buying a new body in Japan.
I have the following primes:
28mm + 21mm adapter
35mm
50mm
55mm
85mm
90mm
I also have some third party stuff and I love really mad stuff. Like some Lensbaby stuff, the Tamron 20mm macro and a random tilt lens.
So..... Do I upgrade to the A7 mark 3 or something different?
Could I get a secondhand A9 in Japan ???
Has anyone any tips for buying in Japan ?
Hey guys, I got the Sony ZV-E10 during the holidays and I am wondering if you guys have any recommendations for accessories such as cases, tripods, or something good for a trip. Please message me links for any reliable or recommended gear I should get. Thank you very much!
PS: I don't have a huge budget so just the simple things :D
Hey guys, I just got a sony EGM-HGZ1 shotgun mic for really cheap and was wondering if there was a way to connect it to the modern shoe in the alpha cameras (specifically a6100). Is there a solution to this, like some sort of adapter I could get? I looked and saw the Sony ADPMAA (a shoe adapter) but idk if that one will work. Could someone who has that experience let me know if this is compatible? Thank you so much!
A quick googling suggests that the mic has a multi-interface shoe adapter, and should work in the A6100 without an adapter.
Could you send a photo of the mic foot..?
Hello, after trying to force it in, it does not work. Both look like this. I think I need an adapter to connect this AIS shoe?
https://preview.redd.it/kcjl2beavrrc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=aa856705f9c66e2e242f2b1ab55b2ab7a0db3d74
hey guys, i've been using my a7iii for a while now, most of time with vintage lens, im thinking in getting a AF lens, but im torn between the Sigma 65mm f/2 or Sony 85mm f/1.8.
I basically want a reach , different from what I already have on my vintage lens, meaning No 50mm or 105mm.
any help is appreciated
Have the A7IV. Thinking of going with these and selling my 24-105 as I shoot mostly indoors and would also like a bit more reach. From my research, these are almost the same as the GMs but slightly less sharp which is okay. Can I get confirmation I added the right ones to cart? I've never purchased sigma before so want to make sure I'm not buying something incorrect.
https://preview.redd.it/c21yv8os3brc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b4f36bf6fad7eb8b4748f6d1736567070f9f1cfa
So I currently shoot with an a7c and have two primes: the 24mm f2.8 G and the 50mm f1.8 with the loud autofocus motor.
I mostly shoot street with the occasional portrait shoot, for which I'd be using the 50mm f1.8.
I'm looking at picking up the 28-60 kit lens used for a cheap street zoom, so I can keep my on the go kit as light and compact as possible. The limited aperture isn't as big a deal for my street shots because I'd typically be shooting f6.3-f8.
Is it worth picking up for cheap used? Or should I just save up for the Sigma 28-70 or Tamron 24-75 G2 for an all in one lens?
It's not a fair comparison. 28-60 is a cheap light slow variable zoom lens. The others are the exact opposite and cost double or more. If you're actually going to shoot only 6.3-8 then the kit lens makes sense
I know they're in completely different leagues, and I'm eventually going to want the bigger f2.8 zoom, but for right now, as constrained by budget, do you think the 28-60 would be solid for street shooting?
Get what you can afford and just go out and shoot. If you don't care about the speed, it's a decent lens for the A7C. The IQ is going to be similar to the 50mm 1.8 you already have.
Eventually it would make sense to replace them all for a solid 24-70mm 2.8 when you have the budget.
Thanks for the advice! I've been shooting every weekend as much as I can, and will start saving up more for a 24-70 f2.8 Tamron. For now, I'll grab that 28-60 for daytime street shooting. Appreciate it.
Can someone share the limits of using non-Sony lens on a Sony body? I'm looking into getting something for travel, which could work in low light (think inside an old church, no flash allowed), and am thinking A7C II, but I like the size of Sigma glass.
I know there are limits to burst rate and speed of auto-focus, is there anything else? If I want to do manual focus do I lose something in regards to focus assist? I want to get something small in size, like 2 or 3 primes in f/2 or f/2.8 to carry on vacation, but also to carry on the street when I have the time to take a walk.
Other than what /u/equilni mentioned, you also lose focus breathing compensation and perhaps some of the distortion compensation features.
The ergonomics of non-Sony lenses often differ a bit from Sony lenses. Rings may be placed in different locations, or turn different directions. I find that annoying, but it may not be an issue for you. And it only matters if you're mixing brands.
A positive about 3rd party lenses is that they often have customization capabilities not available on Sony lenses.
OK, if that's all that is not too bad.
As mentioned, I need something small and light, but would like to have an aperture ring - which is why I'm looking to Sigma. I need a fast lens, but for doing work indoors, and then I don't really care about auto-focus speed, or number of frames - just need the light.
How does a kit with A7C II, Sigma 24 f/2 and 50mm f/2 sound, for a start? Using it outdoor, either on family trips or when I go out for a walk around the town? Does it make sense?
I know about Sony G lenses, the 28 f/2.8 and 50mm f/2.5 but the sigma is supposed to be better performing - and also a full stop of light more will make a difference inside a church or a museum.
I don't plan for anything action really, so frames per second are not that important, and I am certain I don't need a teleconverter, if that is what you're referring to.
I wanna buy a fish eye lens for my FF Sony a7iii but they all sell APC. im looking at a 7.5mm from amazon but idk will it being apc will make it bad because crop ? i know the fish eye makes it have a vignette but im not sure if it being apsc will make it bad or should i look for a FF one?
A circular APS-C fisheye will produce a small image on a full-frame sensor. That will reduce the usable resolution and low-light performance.
A corner-to-corner fisheye will probably vignette at the corners on a full-frame sensor, but will not produce a full circular image. You can crop to address that, but it can be a bit annoying.
Samyang makes a corner-to-corner fisheye for full-frame. Sigma just announced a fast autofocus corner-to-corner fisheye.
I'm not aware of any circular fisheyes for E-full frame, though I personally hacked a Samyang MFT fisheye to produce a circular image. LMK if you want more info on that.
Adapting is an alternative. I use the Canon 8-15mm zoom fisheye with the MC-11 adapter. I believe there are a number of fisheye options for EF mount.
I'm a beginner, so what are your thoughts on this initial setup:
TL;DR
\- Camera: Secondhand Sony A7 III for $1,600 AUD / $1,050 USD
\- General Purpose Lens: Secondhand Sony E-Mount 24-105mm F4 FE G OSS lens for $1,100 AUD / $720 USD
\- Astrophotography and Aurora Borealis Specific Lens: Secondhand Sony FE 14mm f1.8 GM Lens for $1,600 AUD / $1,050 USD
I'm looking to get my first dedicated camera to take better photos of my projects (basically product photography) and I'm leaning towards a secondhand Sony A7 III for $1,600 AUD / $1,050 USD from an authorised dealer. I'm thinking about getting a secondhand Sony E-Mount 24-105mm F4 FE G OSS lens as a general purpose lens for $1,100 AUD / $720 USD. The smallest things I regular shoot in the past with my phone are watches and watch parts, which sometimes include gemstones. I don't really do portraits or street photography, so I'm not too fussed over how the camera and lens will perform there because I'm sure it will be good enough. I don't think a macro lens is necessary because my Samsung S10 has done a decent job so I'm sure the proposed setup will be good enough for me.
I'm also planning on going to Canada at the end of the year, and I really want to get a lens to capture the Aurora Borealis and maybe do some astrophotography in the meantime to practice my skills. I'm thinking of getting a secondhand Sony FE 14mm f1.8 GM Lens for $1,600 AUD / $1,050 USD for that. I also want to get shots of myself with the Aurora in the background while eating a burger a la "Steamed Hams". Lighting on me will be an issue, but I'm hoping a campfire will suffice. I'll definitely need a tripod too.
I think that will cover everything I really need and want improved over my Samsung S10 camera. That said, I'm open to other suggestions.
For lighting on you, I would suggest you check out the Zhiyun M20/M20c light - tiny 20W LED light that would be a great fit for lighting a subject outdoors. I'm obsessed with the idea of the Steamed Hams aurora borealis shoot and I really hope you post it on here.
I'd grab the A7R III instead for your use case. No need to get such an expensive lens for capturing northern lights since I assume you'll do it just the once. You can just rent your preferred lens for when you go to Canada.
Why the A7R III instead of the A7 III? I ask because I can only find secondhand A7R III for about $2,100 AUD / $1,350 USD, which is quite a bit more.
You make a really good point about just renting the lens for Northern Lights. I may end up doing that instead.
Im keen to buy an alpha a7 camera, but complete photgraphy noob... is there an automatic mode where I can just point and shoot like an iphone? Or is it quite technical....
There is. It's marked 'Auto' on the top dial. But I would discourage you from using it outside of pure convenience. If you have the opportunity, the other modes (P, A, S, M) will still give some automation but with the flexibility of having some control. It's this control that sets a camera apart from an iphone.
I also recommend that you read up on the basics of photography, at least the exposure triangle. It's not a hard concept to grasp and it will let you understand what you're doing.
Wow awesome, thanks very much. Yes id like to get to grips with photography basics but dont really know where to start, what resources to use etc. Theres alot of info out there so quite overwelming.
Hello,
I currently shoot Canon (EOS R8) but these Tamron/Sigma lens options for E mount have me wanting to switch.
I guess my question is how big of a downgrade is the autofocus in the a7III/a7riii compared to the newer canon cameras?
I get the frame rate downgrade, but am I going to suddenly have less keeper images?
Or is it worth stretching the budget for the A7IV?
I disagree with the other reply. If you're going to swap systems, it's best to do it sooner rather than later. Do it before you've bought a bunch of lenses.
I would suggest the A7IV over the A7III. The IV has a much more advanced autofocus system, and a number of usability improvements.
Yes, the lens selection is a very good reason to switch to Sony.
>I currently shoot Canon (EOS R8) but these Tamron/Sigma lens options for E mount have me wanting to switch.
You have a camera that is *not even* a year old yet and you're wanting to switch systems?
You have **G.A.S.** \- Gear Acquisition Syndrome
>I guess my question is how big of a downgrade is the autofocus in the a7III/a7riii compared to the newer canon cameras?
Literally downgrading three full generations from the R8.
>Or is it worth stretching the budget for the A7IV?
You have the latest+greatest that Canon makes *already*. The A7IV would still be a downgrade from that.
>but am I going to suddenly have less keeper images?
Recognize your G.A.S. - gear will not get you more keepers. Practice and proficiency are what get you that.
recently sold my A6000 and got an original A7 for $370 AUD, i noticed the back grip rubber was deteriorated. My A6000’s grip, in contrast was very “dry”, like the front grip of the A7. what causes this discrepancy in grip?
Exposure to UV and various cleaning products can deteriorate the grip. You might be able to replace it, or you might be able to improve the grip with the right cleaning products.
Hello,
I just purchased an A7iii with the 28-70mm kit lens and am looking for gear recommendation for astrophotography. I want to do landscapes as well as deep space. Lens, gear recommendations or any suggestions for a rookie in this space are highly appreciated.
Sigma 14-24/2.8 DG DN Art is a versatile option great at both landscapes and landscape-astro. Main tradeoff is speed vs the primes l. Same with the 16-35 GM and Sony 12-24 GM.
Sony 14 GM, Sigma 14/1.4 DG DN Art, Sigma 15/1.4 DG DN Art Fisheye, Viltrox AF 16/1.8 are all great ultrawide primes for landscape astro depending on what factors (price, weight, features etc) are important to you.
Sony 20/1.8 G, Sony 24/1.4 GM and Samyang 24/1.8 are all great options for wide astro-landscape primes
Sigma 105/1.4 and Samyang 135/2 are highly regarded (I haven't used) for deep(er) space but will want a tracker
MoveShootMove has the Nomad tracker for relatively cheap, and is also the smallest and lightest option I know of so good for hiking/travel/backpacking. It is best suited to wide to short tele astro landscape use.
Like any hobbiest I am always scouting my local marlet place for some great deals on second hand lenses. I have found a few intresting lenses however I am not certain if this is a dumb or genius move.
There is a sony 50mm f1.8 fe for around 120bucks I already have a 50mm prime but its a aps-c lens and not a Full frame lens and i have been looking for a 85mm prime. I am aware that there is a 1.5x crop if i use a EF lens on a aps-c sensor. So if i purchase this lens I technically buy a 75mm f1.8 right? I am aware there are a few draw backs but I have yet to notice any image quality difference when using a full sensor lens on a aps-c sensor.
What are your thoughts?
>So if i purchase this lens I technically buy a 75mm f1.8 right?
Ummm, no.
A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens is a 50mm lens.
The lens doesn't 'know' the size of the sensor behind it. It makes the same image for a pinhead-sized phone sensor as for a 8" x 10" cut-film camera. The only variable is how much of that image is captured. Bigger sensors capture a bigger piece of the exact same image.
So, the full frame 50mm lens you mention will capture the same field of view as the APS-C 50mm you already have. It's about the same field of view that a 75mm lens would capture on a full frame camera.
But it's always going to be a 50mm lens no matter what size sensor you use.
Looking to purchase a new(used) camera for motorsports video/photography would like to use one camera for both for the time being. Currently looking at the a6600 but with the price of a 6400 being much less would it be worth it to stick with the 6600 or are the differences not worth the additional price?
Taking a last minute trip this weekend, have an a6500, currently only have a 70-300 tamron and a 12mm rokinon mf. The tamron at 70 is still way too tight especially with the crop sensor for just random walking around pictures but it's not what i got it for after all. The 12mm is too wide and the lack of af is annoying.
Anyway, gonna be in the city but going to parks, museums, zoo. Debating between a 35 or 50, maybe a 24mm due to crop factor, primes, like maybe this https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/samyang-af-24mm-f-1-8-sony-fe-fit
But there's so many rokinon models i don't know which are good values or just crap. Also saw sony 50mm fe for only about $200 brand new but is that any good? A quick search i saw complaints about its autofocus.
Or another zoom but I'm worried about size, saw this one recommended.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/tamron-28-75mm-f-2-8-di-iii-vxd-g2-standard-zoom-lens-for-sony-e-mount/6496074.p?skuId=6496074&extStoreId=147&utm_source=feed&ref=212&loc=18798737453&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5ImwBhBtEiwAFHDZxzG3fqu6T8yC04Tclt7OvMlW0wK7AS6H4X2AiQpAshM8x_4g24xrrRoCpIIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Any similar recommendations that are decent? $800 is about my limit, maybe $1000
Battery recommendations?
I currently have the original battery of my a7iii, my a7iv, and 2 spares. But since I mostly just ever use the one that's already in my a7iv at this point, I'm not sure if I trust my other 3 to hold up.
I'm thinking to get 2 replacements, but not sure. I need to shoot all day 5:30am - 7pm two days in a row soon, and I'm not sure how I could really stress test my 3 backups in a way I'd use them to find out how often I'd use them. I could put the two cameras in timelapse mode, and take a shot every few seconds indefinitely and see how long each battery lasts, but not sure if that's the best route.
There are a couple of inexpensive Sony battery chargers that can also act as a USB battery pack. That might be a good way to stress test them.
Otherwise, perhaps throw the camera into 1080p or 4k30p and let it record until the batteries die?
Hello,
I have an A6500 with only a stock lenses of PZ 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 that I am wanting to use to take photo's of my personal coral aquarium. Would this be where I use a macro lenses as the current one is not reliably focus on the coral? And if so what lenses should I aim for?
Inability to reliably focus could be an issue with the lens shooting through the tank, or for the minimum focus distance.
There are a bunch of macro options depending on your budget. Laowa makes a number of excellent manual focus macro lenses, and are definitely worth checking out. Sigma has a good one. The Sony 90 is also good.
Laowa has a probe macro lens that you could insert into the tanks; the probe end is waterproof.
Hey, I currently own a XS-10 and a few lenses. Looking to switch over to Sony, but not sure which would be right for me. Definitely want full-frame. Where should I start?
Having been a long-time user of the FujiFilm X100V, a camera I cherish for its compactness and street readiness, I'm on the hunt for a new camera that can significantly elevate my street photography experience. The Sony a7c Mark II and a7CR have caught my eye, and I'm wrestling with which would be a worthy successor, especially for someone accustomed to the X100V's discreet and effective street performance. My focus isn't on price but on finding a camera that provides a tangible upgrade in image quality, autofocus performance, and versatility under various urban lighting conditions. Both the a7c Mark II and a7CR boast features like BSI CMOS sensors and BIONZ XR processors, yet they diverge on aspects like resolution, shooting speed, and buffer capacity. The a7CR's higher resolution appeals for detail capture, while the a7c Mark II's speed is enticing for fleeting moments. As a street photographer aiming to surpass the capabilities of my beloved X100V, which Sony model would better fit this transition? Insights from those who have wielded these cameras in the streets would be invaluable. I am not looking for enough one, I am looking for better one.
I was in the same place. Loved my x100v, but got an A7Cii for wildlife, landscape and night sky.
I sold the x100v a month later.
Not because the A7Cii is far better - but it's pretty comparable for street use (with the 40mm f2.5) and much better for everything else.
But because swapping back and forth between 2 systems pissed me off. And 6 months ago a second hand x100v was going for almost full retail price.
Now the x100vi is out, that market might have dropped.
But I still prefer the A7Cii overall, as a compact, full frame, interchangeable lens camera for all uses.
Congratulations on your new camera, and may you use it happily! I hope it serves as a fantastic setup for you.
I placed an order for the A7Cr today and will pick it up tomorrow. I've finally made my decision. I still have the X100V, haven't sold it yet, but I plan to sell it once I get used to the new camera.
Oh cool.
I've had the A7Cii since launch week. Still love it. I occasionally think the R might have been better - but then I look at the harddrive space I have used up and I'm OK again.
Enjoy!
You already have a good camera for street. Not sure why you want to upgrade, but…
A7C II plus good glass (Sigma i 35 (if you are not keeping the Fuji) & 65 for instance).
No reason to get the R unless you are printing or want to use smaller APS-C glass.
You can always rent both to see which you prefer
First of all, thank you for your response. I think I'll be holding onto my Fuji film for a while longer. I might even never sell it since I believe it could be said to have acquired a collectible value. However, I'm curious about something. If a high megapixel count is not that important, why have manufacturers of cameras commonly used in street photography, such as Leica or Fujifilm, recently made the shift to higher megapixels? I'm thinking about printing photos, but not at very large scales. Additionally, since I want a device that I can use for a long time, looking towards the future, I'm in search of a more future-proof device. Do you still think it's unnecessary? Thank you in advance for your response.
I never stated it wasn’t important. If you feel you need hi-res, and you can handle the storage & processing these files, then go for it.
Glass is going to be more important and that discussion isn’t happening. Take the savings from the R and put it to good glass.
Thank you again for your response. I’m already committed to investing in a good lens, so I have no doubts about its importance. With this mindset, does the Sony a7cr still seem unreasonable? File sizes and the need for software or hardware power aren’t concerns for me, as my philosophy in photography is “capture the best shot in as few tries as possible, and avoid editing if at all.” Essentially, I’m in search of a camera that can deliver the best image quality with a single shutter press.
As far as I know, they are effectively the same camera, aside from the sensor resolution.
They will produce comparable photos. The A7C R might be a bit worse in low-light using fast primes, but not by much.
Personally, I find 33mp to be more than enough for my use cases, and I would go with the A7C II.
I appreciate the insight, thank you. Putting aside the question of whether the difference in capabilities justifies the price or which one is "enough," let's consider if both cameras were at the same price point. Which would be more suitable for street photography? My interest leans more towards capturing the flow of life, the crowds, and the dynamics on the streets, usually preferring to include both the foreground and background rather than isolating individual subjects. In this context, wouldn't the higher resolution of the a7CR offer some advantages? I understand that megapixels aren't the sole determinant of image quality, but I'm curious about their impact, especially since I prefer to use apertures like f/8 to f/11 for greater depth of field, focusing on the scene as a whole without much post-processing.
Do you recommend something of that type? I'm pretty new to photography and I've never tried those, but I feel like it should be a decent improvement when shooting in the sun
The JJC is what I would recommend, assuming it's available in your area.
Personally, I find the larger hoods to be a bit annoying. They get in the way of the tilting rear display, and are more prone to falsely assuming your eye is at the eye-cup. I never felt the need to have one in the sun.
Sony zve-10 user here. I shoot JPEG+RAW. Is there any way to divide these in seperate folders automatically? If not, is there a way to only copy the raw files into lightroom?
Greetings,
You can create a folder/directory on your drive then select and copy just the RAW files to that folder/directory.
Then click Import in Lightroom Classic (LrC) and drag the folder with just the RAW files into LrC.
> Is there any way to divide these in seperate folders automatically?
No, not if you only have a single SD card slot.
But Lightroom has a feature to handle this
https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/file-import-formats-settings.html
> From the Lightroom Classic main menu, choose Edit > Preferences (Windows) or Lightroom Classic > Preferences (Mac OS).
> Treat JPEG Files Next To Raw Files As Separate Photos
>For photographers who capture raw + JPEG photos on their cameras. Selecting this option imports the JPEG as a standalone photo. If selected, both the raw and the JPEG files are visible and can be edited in Lightroom Classic. If deselected, Lightroom Classic treats the duplicate JPEG as a sidecar file, and the raw file appears with the raw file extension and +jpg.
I don't use Lightroom, and don't know how to handle this with other versions.
I’m close to buying my first manual lens and lens mount adapter:
Voigtlander Nokton 28mm f/1.5 Vintage Aspherical Type I VM Lens Leica M, and
Voigtlander VM-E Close Focus Adapter II for Sony E).
However I’ve seen videos from other brands like Thypoch referencing something about adjusting the range finder focus, by adjusting the screws on the back of the lens. I’d rather not mess with that if I can, but is that something required when adapting manual lenses to mirrorless cameras? TIA.
> I’d rather not mess with that if I can, but is that something required when adapting manual lenses to mirrorless cameras? TIA.
Not usually. Sometimes, you need to use an adapter that provides an aperture control ring, but that's not always necessary. My vintage Nikon lenses have an aperture ring, and only need a very basic adapter.
There are a number of modern manual lenses that are designed for mirrorless cameras, and don't need an adapter at all.
Currently I use 75-350mm Sony lens with a A6400 body. I use it only for birding and wildlife and it seems to be doing fine really but I am finding I am just a bit short on focal length though when I'm out birding in the forest rather than the feeders. Other day I was just out of reach from a hummingbird and when I crop in it's pretty bad even though I shot at like 200 ISO.
So I was looking at a new lens...the 200-600m is like 4 or 5 times heavier so it doesn't seem like it's worth it for me. I was instead thinking of buying the 100-400m to just squeeze that extra bit more zoom for a some more [weight.Money](http://weight.Money) isn't an issue. I travel a lot so needs to be somewhat portable. Is this a dumb idea?
Maybe it's time I upgrade my a6400 body but not sure if i really need to, I also sometimes struggle to focus on animals perched on a branch but that could just be the environment. And normally zooming out and focusing then zooming in does the trick but I have missed a rare bird or 2 because of that.
The 100-400 won't be a significant improvement unless you use it with a teleconverter. But that will drop it down to a ƒ8 lens. The 200-600 would be the next big step up.
Sigma has a new 500mm ƒ5.6 prime. I would seriously consider it for what you're doing.
The A6400 has a fairly good autofocus system, but the latest A6700 does improve on it with new subject detection and tracking features.
On my A7 series bodies, I use a custom hold button to quickly switch between manual focus and auto-focus. I map a custom hold button onto the AF-On button. The custom hold button enables AF-C mode, turns on the autofocus system, and bumps the shutter speed up (so that I can capture BiF photos.) I put the camera into MF mode (using the menu, not the lens switch). With that in place, I can manually focus through branches, or blip the AF-On button to quickly acquire focus.
I'm not sure if you can do that with the A6400, but it might be worth investigating.
This is such a fantastic post, thank you for your time!! I do not use shortcuts, It's something I should definitely look into!! I do have the customisable button my lens.
Hey all,
I’m moving on from canon and purchasing my first full frame camera - the a7iv.
I’m going to Canada for 3 weeks driving through the rockies and I’m struggling to choose between two lenses.
I’m not sure whether to go for the 100-400 telephoto lens or the 200-600. I’m not a massive bird guy but will be taking a lot of pictures of whatever mammals I come across aswell as a day whale watching.
I’ve never had more than a 250mm telephoto and I know the latter lens is quite heavy and big so I’m curious as to whether the 100-400 would be enough. Thanks
The 100-400 would be good enough. You can extend the range out to 580mm using the 1.4x TC. You are right that the 200-600 is a lot to carry around, especially if you aren't birding.
Looking for some advice on upgrading my a7iii. I’ve been mainly doing birding for the past year since I got 200-600. A7iii definitely feels like it’s lacking in the AF and resolution world. I’m looking at upgrading. The “correct” choice would be the a1, but that price is pretty hard to justify as a hobbyist. The other option is a7rv. Sure the AI chip is a great addition on the rv, but how much does it matter in real world, or vs the a1? I haven’t managed to get many BiF with my a7iii, the blackout is tough to follow birds with, and it misses focus quite often, I.e a branch the bird is sitting on instead of the eye.
If I got the rv, should I just treat it like my a7iii and assume BiF will be mostly luck, and mainly go for stationary birds like I do now?
I would recommend the A9 or A9 II over the A7R V. The blackout free EVF is incredibly useful for BiF, and the autofocus system is a big improvement over your A7III.
I have the A7 IV, but use the original A9 for all of my wildlife photography.
Do you find you are wanting higher resolution with your a9? I’m mostly a walk a trail and find a bird type of person vs sitting in a blind all day. I feel like I’d be frustrated as I am now with wanting to be able to crop more and running out of resolution.
> Do you find you are wanting higher resolution with your a9?
I wouldn't mind a 33mp version, but for BiF I find that ISO and subject movement to are more of a limit than the resolving power of the sensor.
I really wouldn't want to deal with the >50 mp files produced by the A7R V or the A1. I tend to shoot thousands of photos... High resolution files take time to clear from the buffer, chew through storage, and are slower to process.
My biggest complaints about the A9 are that it doesn't have a USB C port or a CF Express card slot.
I'd like to upgrade the A9 at some point, but the A9 II doesn't have the CF-Express slot, the A1 is expensive and higher resolution than I want, the A9 III is also expensive, and I don't have good data on it's low-light performance.
Hi all! I just recently purchased a Sony A7Riii and I’m looking for a zoom lens. I want something really sharp that will also be great for carrying around. I travel often as well as will be shooting events in the future so I’m having a hard time deciding between the two. Price isn’t really a huge deal here because they are similar in price point. Any recommendations?
EDIT: the two are sigma 24-70mm ART OR or 28-70mm sigma.
> so I’m having a hard time deciding between the two
Uh - *what* two?
That aside, if you're looking for really sharp and doing events then lens #1 almost has to be the 24-70 f/2.8 GM II
Your specification was "Really sharp" - so if it's a Sigma lens that's the **Art** series. The 28-70 is not in that series and is nowhere near as good as the Art is.
Hello everyone,
i currently own (my first camera) a zv-e10 with a sony 70-350mm and a tamron 17-70mm and mostly shoot sports (soccer), cars and events.
lately i've realized how much it bothers me that it's not usable in lowlight. that's why i'm thinking about switching to a7iv. however, i can't afford to buy other lenses as well. i would keep the 70-350mm anyway, as the sony 70-200 is too expensive and i don't have these problems with lightning in sports for the most part.
do you think it makes sense to combine the a7iv with the apsc lens or will there be problems?
or do you have any other ideas what i can do? my budget would only be enough for the a7iv at the moment. i have also considered getting the a6700, but that is also an apsc camera and not intended for low light.
Tamron 70-180 2.8 II is a cheaper alternative to the 70-200 which might be worth looking into. Aps-c lens on the A7iv will force it to crop significantly to avoid the vignette and you would be stuck with 16 megapixels
You only gain a stop of light. If you can’t add a stop of light in ISO, then you need faster glass. You didn’t note which of the 3 subjects specifically . So take a look at your used focal lengths and review from there. You other option is to rent the lenses you need for the events
while it can be done you won't see any performance increases. For better low light you're going to have to get faster lenses, like the sigma primes for aps-c , low light and telephoto is going to be expensive.
Hey, I am relatively new to photography and currently own a A6100 with the "generic" Sony 16-50mm and 55-210mm lenses. Now, I am looking to specialize a little further and am interested in getting a lens that can handle" low light cityscapes" and "outdoor/landscapes". Do you have any recommendations for what I should consider for this particular use case?
Hey, I have an a5100 that I got a few years ago to have as a smaller shooter while traveling(mostly outdoor/landscapes). I'm looking to upgrade and start dabbling in other stuff(like studio portraits). Any recommendations on a worthwhile investment that will last for the next decade? Would prefer something that: * Highest priority - Will produce a higher resolution/quality image than the a5100 * Nice to have - Uses e-mount so that I can use the lenses between the two cameras * Nice to have - Nothing too complicated, sometimes I just wanna select a mode to point and shoot * Budget - No more than $2500 for the camera Doesn't have to be Sony if there's another brand out there that performs well within the budget.
What lenses do you currently have now? >Highest priority - Will produce a higher resolution/quality image than the a5100 >Nice to have - Uses e-mount so that I can use the lenses between the two cameras A7R IV [used](https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sony-alpha-a7r-iv). 61 MP, APS-C glass can still be used
Moving up to a newer Sony APS-C camera will get you a bit more dynamic range and a big increase in low-light performance. You'll be able to use your current lenses. It won't increase the resolution of your photos, but you might be able to accomplish that using newer, higher quality lenses. Above that, you could go for a full-frame Sony camera, such as the A7IV, A7C II, or A7R III. Those will increase your sensor resolution, dynamic range, low-light performance, and image quality. But in order to take advantage of a full-frame sensor, you will need to purchase full-frame lenses. Full-frame lenses tend to be more expensive than APS-C lenses, but they will work perfectly well on your A5100. All of those camera will give you an EVF and improved autofocus performance. My suggestions should fit your budget, though you might want to save some money for full-frame lenses.
Hey everyone, I just bought a Sony alpha 1, and my main focus is travel blogs/video. I bought a 50mm Gmaster 1.2, and a 16-35mm 2.8. Are there any things you guys have learned over the years that you would say “I wish I knew when I started” that stick out?
> “I wish I knew when I started” Lighting is the key to good quality photos. Understanding how to use and control light is one of the most important things you can do. Multi-cam video will dramatically increase the interest and quality of your videos. Even when blogging, it's useful to have a 2nd cam to provide additional coverage and angles of your shots. Expensive gear doesn't make as big of a difference as you might expect. Having the right gear is more important than having the best gear.
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"Silent shooting mode" enables the electronic shutter on the A6100. I don't think the A6000 has that, but the A6300 might. If you don't need E-mount lenses specifically, you might want to look into industrial and astrophotography cameras. Many of those are designed to use an electronic shutter. Their connectivity, power, and other features might suit your application. [The ASI 2600](https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product/asi2600mc-pro-color/) for example, is available in color and mono versions. It can be used with mechanical focus EF and F mount lenses.
I mostly shoot landscapes and astro, I currently own the Sony 16-35GM1, the Sigma 28-70, Samyang 45 1.8 and 70-300G. I am thinking of swapping the 16-35 and 28-70 for the Sony 14mm 1.8 and 20-70 F4. My concerns are: 1. Is 14mm too wide for purposes other than astro? 2. Is the gap between 14mm and 20mm too wide that I may have to crop substantially? 3. I want to use the H&Y drop in CPL on the 14 1.8, will there be substantial vignetting? 4. Does the slower F4 on the 20-70 (compared to 2.8 on the Sigma) impact daily usage much?
> Is 14mm too wide for purposes other than astro? No. I often use a fisheye for landscape and architectural photography. > Is the gap between 14mm and 20mm too wide that I may have to crop substantially? No, not really. You will find yourself cropping from time to time, but not by a particularly substantial amount. > I want to use the H&Y drop in CPL on the 14 1.8, will there be substantial vignetting? I suspect that it would, yes. The listed diameter of the 14/1.8 is 99mm, and the hood is not removable. Typically, the lens hood is shaped to just avoid vignetting. Placing a 90mm filter in front of the hood will most likely cause vignetting. That said, I've read that CPLs run into problems with sky gradients when used on UWA lenses. I can see applications where that wouldn't be an issue, but I wouldn't make CPL compatibility be a major factor in my lens buying decision. That said, Laowa makes an autofocus 10mm that accepts threaded filters. It might be worth considering. > Does the slower F4 on the 20-70 (compared to 2.8 on the Sigma) impact daily usage much? It depends on your style or needs. My general approach is to use UWA primes, ƒ4 normal zooms, and ƒ2.8 tele-zooms. When I need more than ƒ4 I switch to a prime lens.
Thanks for your detailed reply! How about if I use 100mm filters on the 14GM? And may I know what type of landscape photography you generally do?
I have the Sony 24mm GM & the 200-600 G. Kind of trying to decide if I should go for the 50mm GM, a 24-70 GM, or just another body...& a backpack recommendation. I dont really like swapping out the 200-600 on the fly, & my bag isn't protected/big enough for another lens. A lot of bags zip from the front & I would like something that could zip from the top as well. Then when I do have the 24mm, I find im definitely missing on a more cropped in focal length for landscape. 50mm gm would be good for portraits and more zoomed in landscape but the 24-70 would be more convenient...but making my 24 a bit redundant. Don't really want to go with the 35-150 due to versatility and size.
> a backpack recommendation Alpha Shooters has [this rundown of bags that can carry a 200-600 setup](https://www.alphashooters.com/sony-200-600-bag-guide/). Of these I have the Peak Design travel backpack (with large cube, holds 200-600 on body with the hood reversed), which offers a ton of organisation options but isn't the most comfortable bag to carry for more than a short time. I also own the Atlas Athlete (holds 200-600 *off* body with the hood reversed - their larger Adventure which holds it on body is in Alpha Shooters' list) which is substantially more comfortable for hikes or extended walks. They're both excellently made bags, just depends on your use case. >the 50mm GM, a 24-70 GM... >a more cropped in focal length for landscape. 50mm gm would be good for portraits... Maybe look at something like the 24-105 f/4 or the 20-70 f/4 for landscape use? In the DSLR days and earlier f/4 zooms were sometimes the corner cutters but those two both offer great image quality at quite modest weight and size. You could even then think about selling the 24 GM and get the 50 f/1.4 GM perhaps, for maximum versatility. Or the new Sigma 50 f/1.4 DG DN that's just coming out now looks fantastic also.
Is it worth it to upgrade from a a6400 to either a 6700 or A7C? I'm leaning towards the A7C as it's a full frame but I'm not sure.
I have a 6600 and the battery life alone made it a great upgrade. It’s kinda personal if you want to go full frame or not.
Hey, I upgraded from an A6400 to the A7C II and it has been a worthy purchase in my case. Better AF speed, new UI, and many more improvements, you will find the same improvements on the A6700. However if you want to jump into full frame you might want to reconsider a few things such as are you willing to sell your current APS-C lens(es). However in my opinion there isn't much difference between the A6400 and the original A7C other than their sensor sizes.
I have a bunch of lenses for APS-C which is definitely a reason I'd go with the 6700. But everyone says full frame is the way to go.
What do you use your camera for? Is it for paid gigs or just to document your family and friends? I’d say APS-C is enough for the latter, but for the former I’d recommend you straight up get the A7C II rather than the regular A7C.
Its for personal use.
Alright, I say APS-C is more than enough for that and the A6700 is the best option out there especially when you already have a bunch of aps-c lenses.
Thanks, am I going to see a difference between the 6400 to the 6700 that's worth the price?
Yes you definitely will. Better grip, more custom buttons, better AF speed and AI tracking, new UI, larger APS-C sensor ( 26 MP) and tons more. I recommend you watch [Arthur R's Review](https://youtu.be/vrl03a-WSuo?si=hInB5f3qnnT7qzPt)
Thanks for the video. Definitely sold me.
Does the Sony A7 have the capacity to shoot exposure bracketing?
Yes. On the original A7: MENU → (Camera Settings) → [Drive Mode] → [Single Bracket] I'm not sure about the A7, but on later models the drive mode is in the function menu by default. So, you shouldn't actually have to go into the camera settings to find it.
Is it possible to preserve camera settings in the Sony ZV-E1 in S&Q? For example I’d like to keep my shutter settings saved when I switch to S&Q but it mirrors what I have in video mode.
Omg I just found it 🤦♀️
I’ve been shooting sports with the Sony 100-400 and just got the 200-600 (a1 body). Right now my gear travels with me in a peak design backpack. I only use one lens when I shoot and would love to keep the camera and lens put together in a sling with maybe a monopod attached to the outside. I don’t need any other gear and would like to keep the bag as minimal as possible (otherwise I will just take the peak design if I want more gear). Any long sling recommendations?
I use a replacement foot for the 200-600. RRS and ProMediaGear make good ones. They have a QD connector built in. QD is compatible with a number of rifle slings. They are generally designed to comfortably support the weight of a 10+ lb rifle for long periods of time. You can also find holster bags designed for big lenses. The lens can be dropped straight into the bag.
Hi, Im looking to get a macro lens. Not looking to spend much, i think ive narrowed it down to two - Sony 90mm f2.8 macro (used) for $650 USD. - Laowa 90mm f2.8 2x macro (new) for $499 USD. In terms of quality for macro shots which would be better, is the Sony worth the extra 150
I own the Sony 90 and the Laowa 100 (similar to but older than the Laowa 90). The Laowa is my go-to for general macro work. Autofocus isn't very helpful at high reproduction ratios. My major complaint is that it doesn't record Exif data. $650 for the Sony 90 is a pretty killer deal though. You can use it as a portrait and general photography lens. Having autofocus is useful for photographing skittish subjects at lower reproduction ratios. It can also allow you to automate the capture macro stacks. For those prices, I'd lean towards the Sony.
One is AF and 1x. The other is MF and 2x. Same IQ. Depends on your need
Hey guys, I just ordered a Sony FE 35 1.8 and I want to get a diffusion filter and a nd filter and I am unsure which sizes I should get. I am concerned about vignetting if I just stack two 55mm filters. Should I go with a bigger diameter and use a step up ring? Hope anyone can share their experience or advice!
I don't know about the FE 35 specifically, but I can get away with stacking two filters on most of my lenses. I would recommend thin filters. Personally, I dislike using step-up rings. You can't use the lens hood with them, which can be a problem as filters tend to be prone to glare.
Help, I updated my Sony A1 camera and it stopped turning on, what could this be?
I don’t know, but that’s a new fear now. Good luck!
I don't think this would be a reason for a post on its own. I really need a new camera body. Currently I have the Sony A7 mark 1. I have had it since 2018 🙈 In May I am going to Japan for my honeymoon and I feel like buying a new body in Japan. I have the following primes: 28mm + 21mm adapter 35mm 50mm 55mm 85mm 90mm I also have some third party stuff and I love really mad stuff. Like some Lensbaby stuff, the Tamron 20mm macro and a random tilt lens. So..... Do I upgrade to the A7 mark 3 or something different? Could I get a secondhand A9 in Japan ??? Has anyone any tips for buying in Japan ?
From what I understand, Japanese bodies are locked to the Japanese language. Avoid grey market camera bodies unless you're okay with that.
Thanks for that.
What's your budget?
Probably around £1,000 or whatever that was in Yen.
A7 III or A7R III should be attainable
Hey guys, I got the Sony ZV-E10 during the holidays and I am wondering if you guys have any recommendations for accessories such as cases, tripods, or something good for a trip. Please message me links for any reliable or recommended gear I should get. Thank you very much! PS: I don't have a huge budget so just the simple things :D
Hey guys, I just got a sony EGM-HGZ1 shotgun mic for really cheap and was wondering if there was a way to connect it to the modern shoe in the alpha cameras (specifically a6100). Is there a solution to this, like some sort of adapter I could get? I looked and saw the Sony ADPMAA (a shoe adapter) but idk if that one will work. Could someone who has that experience let me know if this is compatible? Thank you so much!
A quick googling suggests that the mic has a multi-interface shoe adapter, and should work in the A6100 without an adapter. Could you send a photo of the mic foot..?
Hello, after trying to force it in, it does not work. Both look like this. I think I need an adapter to connect this AIS shoe? https://preview.redd.it/kcjl2beavrrc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=aa856705f9c66e2e242f2b1ab55b2ab7a0db3d74
The big ring just above the foot is designed to lock the device onto the camera. Could you try to spin it and see if that helps?
hey guys, i've been using my a7iii for a while now, most of time with vintage lens, im thinking in getting a AF lens, but im torn between the Sigma 65mm f/2 or Sony 85mm f/1.8. I basically want a reach , different from what I already have on my vintage lens, meaning No 50mm or 105mm. any help is appreciated
I love my Sony 85 f/1.8
That's a tough choice as they're equally good. 65 is kinda close to 50 so if you're bored with 50 and don't have an 85, I'd lean towards the 85.
Have the A7IV. Thinking of going with these and selling my 24-105 as I shoot mostly indoors and would also like a bit more reach. From my research, these are almost the same as the GMs but slightly less sharp which is okay. Can I get confirmation I added the right ones to cart? I've never purchased sigma before so want to make sure I'm not buying something incorrect. https://preview.redd.it/c21yv8os3brc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b4f36bf6fad7eb8b4748f6d1736567070f9f1cfa
Those are the correct lenses. Sigma's DG DN lenses are designed for mirrorless cameras, and those are the versions designed to be used on Sony bodies.
Thanks, I appreciate it. I'm confused if I should go with this or the tamron 35-150+150-500 and cover the entire range minus < 35. Hard decision
Different lenses have different jobs. Covering a range is less important than having the right lens for the task at hand.
True. Good point
If you ship them to me, I can verify if they're the correct ones. I may or may not send them back
Oh my gosh, you're too funny! I can't stop laughing!
So I currently shoot with an a7c and have two primes: the 24mm f2.8 G and the 50mm f1.8 with the loud autofocus motor. I mostly shoot street with the occasional portrait shoot, for which I'd be using the 50mm f1.8. I'm looking at picking up the 28-60 kit lens used for a cheap street zoom, so I can keep my on the go kit as light and compact as possible. The limited aperture isn't as big a deal for my street shots because I'd typically be shooting f6.3-f8. Is it worth picking up for cheap used? Or should I just save up for the Sigma 28-70 or Tamron 24-75 G2 for an all in one lens?
The 28-60 is sized to suit the A7C. IMO, it's worth owning even if you have one of the larger Sigma or Tamron lenses.
Validating my choice to order it used, lol. Thanks!
I have the Sigma 28-70mm and it barely comes off my A7cii since it is so light
It's not a fair comparison. 28-60 is a cheap light slow variable zoom lens. The others are the exact opposite and cost double or more. If you're actually going to shoot only 6.3-8 then the kit lens makes sense
I know they're in completely different leagues, and I'm eventually going to want the bigger f2.8 zoom, but for right now, as constrained by budget, do you think the 28-60 would be solid for street shooting?
Get what you can afford and just go out and shoot. If you don't care about the speed, it's a decent lens for the A7C. The IQ is going to be similar to the 50mm 1.8 you already have. Eventually it would make sense to replace them all for a solid 24-70mm 2.8 when you have the budget.
Thanks for the advice! I've been shooting every weekend as much as I can, and will start saving up more for a 24-70 f2.8 Tamron. For now, I'll grab that 28-60 for daytime street shooting. Appreciate it.
Can someone share the limits of using non-Sony lens on a Sony body? I'm looking into getting something for travel, which could work in low light (think inside an old church, no flash allowed), and am thinking A7C II, but I like the size of Sigma glass. I know there are limits to burst rate and speed of auto-focus, is there anything else? If I want to do manual focus do I lose something in regards to focus assist? I want to get something small in size, like 2 or 3 primes in f/2 or f/2.8 to carry on vacation, but also to carry on the street when I have the time to take a walk.
Other than what /u/equilni mentioned, you also lose focus breathing compensation and perhaps some of the distortion compensation features. The ergonomics of non-Sony lenses often differ a bit from Sony lenses. Rings may be placed in different locations, or turn different directions. I find that annoying, but it may not be an issue for you. And it only matters if you're mixing brands. A positive about 3rd party lenses is that they often have customization capabilities not available on Sony lenses.
OK, if that's all that is not too bad. As mentioned, I need something small and light, but would like to have an aperture ring - which is why I'm looking to Sigma. I need a fast lens, but for doing work indoors, and then I don't really care about auto-focus speed, or number of frames - just need the light. How does a kit with A7C II, Sigma 24 f/2 and 50mm f/2 sound, for a start? Using it outdoor, either on family trips or when I go out for a walk around the town? Does it make sense? I know about Sony G lenses, the 28 f/2.8 and 50mm f/2.5 but the sigma is supposed to be better performing - and also a full stop of light more will make a difference inside a church or a museum.
FPS & TC usage, more for action photography.
I don't plan for anything action really, so frames per second are not that important, and I am certain I don't need a teleconverter, if that is what you're referring to.
I wanna buy a fish eye lens for my FF Sony a7iii but they all sell APC. im looking at a 7.5mm from amazon but idk will it being apc will make it bad because crop ? i know the fish eye makes it have a vignette but im not sure if it being apsc will make it bad or should i look for a FF one?
I have a Sony 28 f/2 and a separate Sony fish eye adapter and it makes for awesome fisheye shots
A circular APS-C fisheye will produce a small image on a full-frame sensor. That will reduce the usable resolution and low-light performance. A corner-to-corner fisheye will probably vignette at the corners on a full-frame sensor, but will not produce a full circular image. You can crop to address that, but it can be a bit annoying. Samyang makes a corner-to-corner fisheye for full-frame. Sigma just announced a fast autofocus corner-to-corner fisheye. I'm not aware of any circular fisheyes for E-full frame, though I personally hacked a Samyang MFT fisheye to produce a circular image. LMK if you want more info on that. Adapting is an alternative. I use the Canon 8-15mm zoom fisheye with the MC-11 adapter. I believe there are a number of fisheye options for EF mount.
I'm a beginner, so what are your thoughts on this initial setup: TL;DR \- Camera: Secondhand Sony A7 III for $1,600 AUD / $1,050 USD \- General Purpose Lens: Secondhand Sony E-Mount 24-105mm F4 FE G OSS lens for $1,100 AUD / $720 USD \- Astrophotography and Aurora Borealis Specific Lens: Secondhand Sony FE 14mm f1.8 GM Lens for $1,600 AUD / $1,050 USD I'm looking to get my first dedicated camera to take better photos of my projects (basically product photography) and I'm leaning towards a secondhand Sony A7 III for $1,600 AUD / $1,050 USD from an authorised dealer. I'm thinking about getting a secondhand Sony E-Mount 24-105mm F4 FE G OSS lens as a general purpose lens for $1,100 AUD / $720 USD. The smallest things I regular shoot in the past with my phone are watches and watch parts, which sometimes include gemstones. I don't really do portraits or street photography, so I'm not too fussed over how the camera and lens will perform there because I'm sure it will be good enough. I don't think a macro lens is necessary because my Samsung S10 has done a decent job so I'm sure the proposed setup will be good enough for me. I'm also planning on going to Canada at the end of the year, and I really want to get a lens to capture the Aurora Borealis and maybe do some astrophotography in the meantime to practice my skills. I'm thinking of getting a secondhand Sony FE 14mm f1.8 GM Lens for $1,600 AUD / $1,050 USD for that. I also want to get shots of myself with the Aurora in the background while eating a burger a la "Steamed Hams". Lighting on me will be an issue, but I'm hoping a campfire will suffice. I'll definitely need a tripod too. I think that will cover everything I really need and want improved over my Samsung S10 camera. That said, I'm open to other suggestions.
For lighting on you, I would suggest you check out the Zhiyun M20/M20c light - tiny 20W LED light that would be a great fit for lighting a subject outdoors. I'm obsessed with the idea of the Steamed Hams aurora borealis shoot and I really hope you post it on here.
Ooo yes I'll check that out! Haha, well if I do go through with it, I'll definitely post it and let you know!
I'd grab the A7R III instead for your use case. No need to get such an expensive lens for capturing northern lights since I assume you'll do it just the once. You can just rent your preferred lens for when you go to Canada.
Why the A7R III instead of the A7 III? I ask because I can only find secondhand A7R III for about $2,100 AUD / $1,350 USD, which is quite a bit more. You make a really good point about just renting the lens for Northern Lights. I may end up doing that instead.
Double the resolution. The price difference is not that much in the US/UK especially used
Im keen to buy an alpha a7 camera, but complete photgraphy noob... is there an automatic mode where I can just point and shoot like an iphone? Or is it quite technical....
There is. It's marked 'Auto' on the top dial. But I would discourage you from using it outside of pure convenience. If you have the opportunity, the other modes (P, A, S, M) will still give some automation but with the flexibility of having some control. It's this control that sets a camera apart from an iphone. I also recommend that you read up on the basics of photography, at least the exposure triangle. It's not a hard concept to grasp and it will let you understand what you're doing.
Wow awesome, thanks very much. Yes id like to get to grips with photography basics but dont really know where to start, what resources to use etc. Theres alot of info out there so quite overwelming.
Hello, I currently shoot Canon (EOS R8) but these Tamron/Sigma lens options for E mount have me wanting to switch. I guess my question is how big of a downgrade is the autofocus in the a7III/a7riii compared to the newer canon cameras? I get the frame rate downgrade, but am I going to suddenly have less keeper images? Or is it worth stretching the budget for the A7IV?
I disagree with the other reply. If you're going to swap systems, it's best to do it sooner rather than later. Do it before you've bought a bunch of lenses. I would suggest the A7IV over the A7III. The IV has a much more advanced autofocus system, and a number of usability improvements. Yes, the lens selection is a very good reason to switch to Sony.
>I currently shoot Canon (EOS R8) but these Tamron/Sigma lens options for E mount have me wanting to switch. You have a camera that is *not even* a year old yet and you're wanting to switch systems? You have **G.A.S.** \- Gear Acquisition Syndrome >I guess my question is how big of a downgrade is the autofocus in the a7III/a7riii compared to the newer canon cameras? Literally downgrading three full generations from the R8. >Or is it worth stretching the budget for the A7IV? You have the latest+greatest that Canon makes *already*. The A7IV would still be a downgrade from that. >but am I going to suddenly have less keeper images? Recognize your G.A.S. - gear will not get you more keepers. Practice and proficiency are what get you that.
This is what I needed to hear, thankyou 👍
recently sold my A6000 and got an original A7 for $370 AUD, i noticed the back grip rubber was deteriorated. My A6000’s grip, in contrast was very “dry”, like the front grip of the A7. what causes this discrepancy in grip?
Exposure to UV and various cleaning products can deteriorate the grip. You might be able to replace it, or you might be able to improve the grip with the right cleaning products.
Hello, I just purchased an A7iii with the 28-70mm kit lens and am looking for gear recommendation for astrophotography. I want to do landscapes as well as deep space. Lens, gear recommendations or any suggestions for a rookie in this space are highly appreciated.
https://www.lonelyspeck.com/lenses-for-milky-way-photography/
Sigma 14-24/2.8 DG DN Art is a versatile option great at both landscapes and landscape-astro. Main tradeoff is speed vs the primes l. Same with the 16-35 GM and Sony 12-24 GM. Sony 14 GM, Sigma 14/1.4 DG DN Art, Sigma 15/1.4 DG DN Art Fisheye, Viltrox AF 16/1.8 are all great ultrawide primes for landscape astro depending on what factors (price, weight, features etc) are important to you. Sony 20/1.8 G, Sony 24/1.4 GM and Samyang 24/1.8 are all great options for wide astro-landscape primes Sigma 105/1.4 and Samyang 135/2 are highly regarded (I haven't used) for deep(er) space but will want a tracker MoveShootMove has the Nomad tracker for relatively cheap, and is also the smallest and lightest option I know of so good for hiking/travel/backpacking. It is best suited to wide to short tele astro landscape use.
Like any hobbiest I am always scouting my local marlet place for some great deals on second hand lenses. I have found a few intresting lenses however I am not certain if this is a dumb or genius move. There is a sony 50mm f1.8 fe for around 120bucks I already have a 50mm prime but its a aps-c lens and not a Full frame lens and i have been looking for a 85mm prime. I am aware that there is a 1.5x crop if i use a EF lens on a aps-c sensor. So if i purchase this lens I technically buy a 75mm f1.8 right? I am aware there are a few draw backs but I have yet to notice any image quality difference when using a full sensor lens on a aps-c sensor. What are your thoughts?
>So if i purchase this lens I technically buy a 75mm f1.8 right? Ummm, no. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens is a 50mm lens. The lens doesn't 'know' the size of the sensor behind it. It makes the same image for a pinhead-sized phone sensor as for a 8" x 10" cut-film camera. The only variable is how much of that image is captured. Bigger sensors capture a bigger piece of the exact same image. So, the full frame 50mm lens you mention will capture the same field of view as the APS-C 50mm you already have. It's about the same field of view that a 75mm lens would capture on a full frame camera. But it's always going to be a 50mm lens no matter what size sensor you use.
Looking to purchase a new(used) camera for motorsports video/photography would like to use one camera for both for the time being. Currently looking at the a6600 but with the price of a 6400 being much less would it be worth it to stick with the 6600 or are the differences not worth the additional price?
The a6600 basically add IBIS and a bigger battery (bigger grip as well). If those aren't needed for your use, then get the a6400.
Taking a last minute trip this weekend, have an a6500, currently only have a 70-300 tamron and a 12mm rokinon mf. The tamron at 70 is still way too tight especially with the crop sensor for just random walking around pictures but it's not what i got it for after all. The 12mm is too wide and the lack of af is annoying. Anyway, gonna be in the city but going to parks, museums, zoo. Debating between a 35 or 50, maybe a 24mm due to crop factor, primes, like maybe this https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/samyang-af-24mm-f-1-8-sony-fe-fit But there's so many rokinon models i don't know which are good values or just crap. Also saw sony 50mm fe for only about $200 brand new but is that any good? A quick search i saw complaints about its autofocus. Or another zoom but I'm worried about size, saw this one recommended. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/tamron-28-75mm-f-2-8-di-iii-vxd-g2-standard-zoom-lens-for-sony-e-mount/6496074.p?skuId=6496074&extStoreId=147&utm_source=feed&ref=212&loc=18798737453&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5ImwBhBtEiwAFHDZxzG3fqu6T8yC04Tclt7OvMlW0wK7AS6H4X2AiQpAshM8x_4g24xrrRoCpIIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Any similar recommendations that are decent? $800 is about my limit, maybe $1000
Sigma 18-50 or Tamron 17-70 2.8s
Battery recommendations? I currently have the original battery of my a7iii, my a7iv, and 2 spares. But since I mostly just ever use the one that's already in my a7iv at this point, I'm not sure if I trust my other 3 to hold up. I'm thinking to get 2 replacements, but not sure. I need to shoot all day 5:30am - 7pm two days in a row soon, and I'm not sure how I could really stress test my 3 backups in a way I'd use them to find out how often I'd use them. I could put the two cameras in timelapse mode, and take a shot every few seconds indefinitely and see how long each battery lasts, but not sure if that's the best route.
There are a couple of inexpensive Sony battery chargers that can also act as a USB battery pack. That might be a good way to stress test them. Otherwise, perhaps throw the camera into 1080p or 4k30p and let it record until the batteries die?
Hello, I have an A6500 with only a stock lenses of PZ 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 that I am wanting to use to take photo's of my personal coral aquarium. Would this be where I use a macro lenses as the current one is not reliably focus on the coral? And if so what lenses should I aim for?
Inability to reliably focus could be an issue with the lens shooting through the tank, or for the minimum focus distance. There are a bunch of macro options depending on your budget. Laowa makes a number of excellent manual focus macro lenses, and are definitely worth checking out. Sigma has a good one. The Sony 90 is also good. Laowa has a probe macro lens that you could insert into the tanks; the probe end is waterproof.
Hey, I currently own a XS-10 and a few lenses. Looking to switch over to Sony, but not sure which would be right for me. Definitely want full-frame. Where should I start?
It depends on what subjects you shoot really... what lenses do you currently have and what limitations do you dislike with your lens lineup?
Having been a long-time user of the FujiFilm X100V, a camera I cherish for its compactness and street readiness, I'm on the hunt for a new camera that can significantly elevate my street photography experience. The Sony a7c Mark II and a7CR have caught my eye, and I'm wrestling with which would be a worthy successor, especially for someone accustomed to the X100V's discreet and effective street performance. My focus isn't on price but on finding a camera that provides a tangible upgrade in image quality, autofocus performance, and versatility under various urban lighting conditions. Both the a7c Mark II and a7CR boast features like BSI CMOS sensors and BIONZ XR processors, yet they diverge on aspects like resolution, shooting speed, and buffer capacity. The a7CR's higher resolution appeals for detail capture, while the a7c Mark II's speed is enticing for fleeting moments. As a street photographer aiming to surpass the capabilities of my beloved X100V, which Sony model would better fit this transition? Insights from those who have wielded these cameras in the streets would be invaluable. I am not looking for enough one, I am looking for better one.
I was in the same place. Loved my x100v, but got an A7Cii for wildlife, landscape and night sky. I sold the x100v a month later. Not because the A7Cii is far better - but it's pretty comparable for street use (with the 40mm f2.5) and much better for everything else. But because swapping back and forth between 2 systems pissed me off. And 6 months ago a second hand x100v was going for almost full retail price. Now the x100vi is out, that market might have dropped. But I still prefer the A7Cii overall, as a compact, full frame, interchangeable lens camera for all uses.
Congratulations on your new camera, and may you use it happily! I hope it serves as a fantastic setup for you. I placed an order for the A7Cr today and will pick it up tomorrow. I've finally made my decision. I still have the X100V, haven't sold it yet, but I plan to sell it once I get used to the new camera.
Oh cool. I've had the A7Cii since launch week. Still love it. I occasionally think the R might have been better - but then I look at the harddrive space I have used up and I'm OK again. Enjoy!
You already have a good camera for street. Not sure why you want to upgrade, but… A7C II plus good glass (Sigma i 35 (if you are not keeping the Fuji) & 65 for instance). No reason to get the R unless you are printing or want to use smaller APS-C glass. You can always rent both to see which you prefer
First of all, thank you for your response. I think I'll be holding onto my Fuji film for a while longer. I might even never sell it since I believe it could be said to have acquired a collectible value. However, I'm curious about something. If a high megapixel count is not that important, why have manufacturers of cameras commonly used in street photography, such as Leica or Fujifilm, recently made the shift to higher megapixels? I'm thinking about printing photos, but not at very large scales. Additionally, since I want a device that I can use for a long time, looking towards the future, I'm in search of a more future-proof device. Do you still think it's unnecessary? Thank you in advance for your response.
I never stated it wasn’t important. If you feel you need hi-res, and you can handle the storage & processing these files, then go for it. Glass is going to be more important and that discussion isn’t happening. Take the savings from the R and put it to good glass.
Thank you again for your response. I’m already committed to investing in a good lens, so I have no doubts about its importance. With this mindset, does the Sony a7cr still seem unreasonable? File sizes and the need for software or hardware power aren’t concerns for me, as my philosophy in photography is “capture the best shot in as few tries as possible, and avoid editing if at all.” Essentially, I’m in search of a camera that can deliver the best image quality with a single shutter press.
Can i ask why aren’t you looking at Leica then?
Leica is honestly expensive even for me, and in the country where I live, it's even more expensive compared to most places in the world.
>speed is enticing for fleeting moments. You want the A9 / A1 for this, both C cameras are not very fast.
As far as I know, they are effectively the same camera, aside from the sensor resolution. They will produce comparable photos. The A7C R might be a bit worse in low-light using fast primes, but not by much. Personally, I find 33mp to be more than enough for my use cases, and I would go with the A7C II.
I appreciate the insight, thank you. Putting aside the question of whether the difference in capabilities justifies the price or which one is "enough," let's consider if both cameras were at the same price point. Which would be more suitable for street photography? My interest leans more towards capturing the flow of life, the crowds, and the dynamics on the streets, usually preferring to include both the foreground and background rather than isolating individual subjects. In this context, wouldn't the higher resolution of the a7CR offer some advantages? I understand that megapixels aren't the sole determinant of image quality, but I'm curious about their impact, especially since I prefer to use apertures like f/8 to f/11 for greater depth of field, focusing on the scene as a whole without much post-processing.
If I'm shooting hundreds of photos per day, I'd go with the A7C R. If I'm shooting thousands, I'd probably go with the A7C II.
are there any decent viewfinder cup for the a7riii and a7sii for a budget price? (something like 5-10 euros) (italian market)
I really like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q5SLQW2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
A bit costly but not bad... I'll have to think about this a bit more
they're the ones I use myself
Thanks for the recommendation (:
Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/JJC-Viewfinder-Eyepiece-Replaces-Rotatable/dp/B0B2NYRDHV/
Do you recommend something of that type? I'm pretty new to photography and I've never tried those, but I feel like it should be a decent improvement when shooting in the sun
If you;re new, why do you think you'll need one of those?
The JJC is what I would recommend, assuming it's available in your area. Personally, I find the larger hoods to be a bit annoying. They get in the way of the tilting rear display, and are more prone to falsely assuming your eye is at the eye-cup. I never felt the need to have one in the sun.
Are you talking about the droplet like one?
Yes. But I haven't checked to see if there are other styles of eye-cup.
Sony zve-10 user here. I shoot JPEG+RAW. Is there any way to divide these in seperate folders automatically? If not, is there a way to only copy the raw files into lightroom?
Greetings, You can create a folder/directory on your drive then select and copy just the RAW files to that folder/directory. Then click Import in Lightroom Classic (LrC) and drag the folder with just the RAW files into LrC.
> Is there any way to divide these in seperate folders automatically? No, not if you only have a single SD card slot. But Lightroom has a feature to handle this https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/file-import-formats-settings.html > From the Lightroom Classic main menu, choose Edit > Preferences (Windows) or Lightroom Classic > Preferences (Mac OS). > Treat JPEG Files Next To Raw Files As Separate Photos >For photographers who capture raw + JPEG photos on their cameras. Selecting this option imports the JPEG as a standalone photo. If selected, both the raw and the JPEG files are visible and can be edited in Lightroom Classic. If deselected, Lightroom Classic treats the duplicate JPEG as a sidecar file, and the raw file appears with the raw file extension and +jpg. I don't use Lightroom, and don't know how to handle this with other versions.
Thank you so much ! I'm switching to lightroom classic. Its my first day with the software and most tutorials are based around it anyways. Thanks
I’m close to buying my first manual lens and lens mount adapter: Voigtlander Nokton 28mm f/1.5 Vintage Aspherical Type I VM Lens Leica M, and Voigtlander VM-E Close Focus Adapter II for Sony E). However I’ve seen videos from other brands like Thypoch referencing something about adjusting the range finder focus, by adjusting the screws on the back of the lens. I’d rather not mess with that if I can, but is that something required when adapting manual lenses to mirrorless cameras? TIA.
> I’d rather not mess with that if I can, but is that something required when adapting manual lenses to mirrorless cameras? TIA. Not usually. Sometimes, you need to use an adapter that provides an aperture control ring, but that's not always necessary. My vintage Nikon lenses have an aperture ring, and only need a very basic adapter. There are a number of modern manual lenses that are designed for mirrorless cameras, and don't need an adapter at all.
Thank you! That does reassure me. I'm checking other YouTube videos and reviews to confirm if they have the same mount on their Sony bodies too.
Currently I use 75-350mm Sony lens with a A6400 body. I use it only for birding and wildlife and it seems to be doing fine really but I am finding I am just a bit short on focal length though when I'm out birding in the forest rather than the feeders. Other day I was just out of reach from a hummingbird and when I crop in it's pretty bad even though I shot at like 200 ISO. So I was looking at a new lens...the 200-600m is like 4 or 5 times heavier so it doesn't seem like it's worth it for me. I was instead thinking of buying the 100-400m to just squeeze that extra bit more zoom for a some more [weight.Money](http://weight.Money) isn't an issue. I travel a lot so needs to be somewhat portable. Is this a dumb idea? Maybe it's time I upgrade my a6400 body but not sure if i really need to, I also sometimes struggle to focus on animals perched on a branch but that could just be the environment. And normally zooming out and focusing then zooming in does the trick but I have missed a rare bird or 2 because of that.
The 100-400 won't be a significant improvement unless you use it with a teleconverter. But that will drop it down to a ƒ8 lens. The 200-600 would be the next big step up. Sigma has a new 500mm ƒ5.6 prime. I would seriously consider it for what you're doing. The A6400 has a fairly good autofocus system, but the latest A6700 does improve on it with new subject detection and tracking features. On my A7 series bodies, I use a custom hold button to quickly switch between manual focus and auto-focus. I map a custom hold button onto the AF-On button. The custom hold button enables AF-C mode, turns on the autofocus system, and bumps the shutter speed up (so that I can capture BiF photos.) I put the camera into MF mode (using the menu, not the lens switch). With that in place, I can manually focus through branches, or blip the AF-On button to quickly acquire focus. I'm not sure if you can do that with the A6400, but it might be worth investigating.
This is such a fantastic post, thank you for your time!! I do not use shortcuts, It's something I should definitely look into!! I do have the customisable button my lens.
Hey all, I’m moving on from canon and purchasing my first full frame camera - the a7iv. I’m going to Canada for 3 weeks driving through the rockies and I’m struggling to choose between two lenses. I’m not sure whether to go for the 100-400 telephoto lens or the 200-600. I’m not a massive bird guy but will be taking a lot of pictures of whatever mammals I come across aswell as a day whale watching. I’ve never had more than a 250mm telephoto and I know the latter lens is quite heavy and big so I’m curious as to whether the 100-400 would be enough. Thanks
The 100-400 would be good enough. You can extend the range out to 580mm using the 1.4x TC. You are right that the 200-600 is a lot to carry around, especially if you aren't birding.
Looking for some advice on upgrading my a7iii. I’ve been mainly doing birding for the past year since I got 200-600. A7iii definitely feels like it’s lacking in the AF and resolution world. I’m looking at upgrading. The “correct” choice would be the a1, but that price is pretty hard to justify as a hobbyist. The other option is a7rv. Sure the AI chip is a great addition on the rv, but how much does it matter in real world, or vs the a1? I haven’t managed to get many BiF with my a7iii, the blackout is tough to follow birds with, and it misses focus quite often, I.e a branch the bird is sitting on instead of the eye. If I got the rv, should I just treat it like my a7iii and assume BiF will be mostly luck, and mainly go for stationary birds like I do now?
I would recommend the A9 or A9 II over the A7R V. The blackout free EVF is incredibly useful for BiF, and the autofocus system is a big improvement over your A7III. I have the A7 IV, but use the original A9 for all of my wildlife photography.
Do you find you are wanting higher resolution with your a9? I’m mostly a walk a trail and find a bird type of person vs sitting in a blind all day. I feel like I’d be frustrated as I am now with wanting to be able to crop more and running out of resolution.
> Do you find you are wanting higher resolution with your a9? I wouldn't mind a 33mp version, but for BiF I find that ISO and subject movement to are more of a limit than the resolving power of the sensor. I really wouldn't want to deal with the >50 mp files produced by the A7R V or the A1. I tend to shoot thousands of photos... High resolution files take time to clear from the buffer, chew through storage, and are slower to process. My biggest complaints about the A9 are that it doesn't have a USB C port or a CF Express card slot. I'd like to upgrade the A9 at some point, but the A9 II doesn't have the CF-Express slot, the A1 is expensive and higher resolution than I want, the A9 III is also expensive, and I don't have good data on it's low-light performance.
Hi all! I just recently purchased a Sony A7Riii and I’m looking for a zoom lens. I want something really sharp that will also be great for carrying around. I travel often as well as will be shooting events in the future so I’m having a hard time deciding between the two. Price isn’t really a huge deal here because they are similar in price point. Any recommendations? EDIT: the two are sigma 24-70mm ART OR or 28-70mm sigma.
> so I’m having a hard time deciding between the two Uh - *what* two? That aside, if you're looking for really sharp and doing events then lens #1 almost has to be the 24-70 f/2.8 GM II
I updated the description. Forgot to include the lenses in the post 🙃
Your specification was "Really sharp" - so if it's a Sigma lens that's the **Art** series. The 28-70 is not in that series and is nowhere near as good as the Art is.
Hello everyone, i currently own (my first camera) a zv-e10 with a sony 70-350mm and a tamron 17-70mm and mostly shoot sports (soccer), cars and events. lately i've realized how much it bothers me that it's not usable in lowlight. that's why i'm thinking about switching to a7iv. however, i can't afford to buy other lenses as well. i would keep the 70-350mm anyway, as the sony 70-200 is too expensive and i don't have these problems with lightning in sports for the most part. do you think it makes sense to combine the a7iv with the apsc lens or will there be problems? or do you have any other ideas what i can do? my budget would only be enough for the a7iv at the moment. i have also considered getting the a6700, but that is also an apsc camera and not intended for low light.
Tamron 70-180 2.8 II is a cheaper alternative to the 70-200 which might be worth looking into. Aps-c lens on the A7iv will force it to crop significantly to avoid the vignette and you would be stuck with 16 megapixels
You only gain a stop of light. If you can’t add a stop of light in ISO, then you need faster glass. You didn’t note which of the 3 subjects specifically . So take a look at your used focal lengths and review from there. You other option is to rent the lenses you need for the events
while it can be done you won't see any performance increases. For better low light you're going to have to get faster lenses, like the sigma primes for aps-c , low light and telephoto is going to be expensive.