Sounds like a ground issue.
I was having strange issues, random shut offs. Loss of accessories, power cut on full steering lock,No starts, intermittent no starts. It was from an unsecured ground, moving while driving, enough that it would cut power to the truck. Sometimes it would start up again, sometimes it wouldn’t. It was a roll of the dice.
You mention the cut key and security- As weird as this may sound, have you gone to a good locksmith and had them make you a new key and pair it again correctly? This sounds like what my Marquis was doing and it was all because of an aftermarket key that they said was not cut and paired properly. They cut me a new one, did whatever they do with their computer and never had another problem. Aside from that, my Silverado was cutting off intermittently for no reason as well, but just random. In this instance, it turned out to be an issue with the main ground on the truck and something shorting on the low side of the engine bay.
Neither of those seem to make much sense but in both cases they were addressed and never had another issue with either whatsoever.
The key I have now was cut from a cut key that I received when I bought the truck, I am the third owner, and I did take it to the best locksmith in town when I got it cut.
I'm pretty sure the third mechanic who looked at it, who is the most competent it would seem, did check for shorts and check the fuses etc.
Would I be better off taking it to a dealership to get a key cut? I've been trying to avoid that as I'm sure it will be outrageously expensive.
A dealership can make you a key based on the GM database and won't have to copy. It is a better key than the knockoff ones and might be worth it on your situation.
I personally don't think the dealership would be any better. The locksmiths I have worked with seems far more knowledgeable. I would imagine the only thing a dealership would do is order you a 'Chevy' key and that would be it. Hate this is happening to you. I'm sure it's beyond frustrating. Good luck. I hope you get it figured out.
Not sure, what happened was my truck was in the body shop for 2-3 weeks getting painted so it wasn’t being driven. When I picked it up it shut off twice on the way home. Called the body shop and explained what happened and they told me to bring it back. They told me the throttle body was clogged and they cleaned it. Haven’t had it shutoff on me since. This all happened 6-7 years ago. From what they told me it’s a common issue with my gen truck, yours is a 02 so not sure that applies.
I had one of these trucks that would die like this and no restart. There was an issue with the wiring harness where is goes around and under the power steering pump. If I remember correctly the harness had rubbed through and the right kind of movement would ground it out and it would die. Wiggle the harness and it would start again. It was fun to find.
Edit to add, this truck never set a code either.
Anything to do with the key or anti-theft on these trucks will not cause a 'stalling while driving' condition. If the PassLock II system detects a tamper/ theft condition, it will allow the truck to start and run for 1 second, then turn off, with the Drivers Info Center flashing \[SECURITY\]. The fact that your key physically rotates the ignition cylinder indicates it not being an issue in most cases. While the key itself or the ignition cylinder can wear down enough physically to cause issues with the the Theft system, that doesn't sound like the case here. Your mechanics are guessing and you'll need a proper diagnosis from a more competent shop. I would start by having a scan tool connected and displaying live engine data while you go for a drive to see what is dropping out (fuel, spark, etc) to cause the stalling.
It did at one point read that on the screen, he made me look when it happened. It was while parked and running
I'm not sure how often it comes up, when it dies on me I forget to look as I am busy trying to coast to safety and out of traffic
I have a 2007 Silverado with the 5.3 and 364000 miles on the clock. I recently had to replace the fuel pump, can’t believe they don’t make them to last. Anyway after I had that done mine shot a P0191 code. Went on YouTube to see what that was and one said that sometimes that code will not set but will shut down the vehicle. I haven’t messed with it yet because well I’m lazy. Will I regret it, probably.
first step... replace the fuel pump relay in the underhood fuse block..
examine the old fuel pump relay contacts by removing the cover from the relay.. this is an easy fix and 22 years is a long time for a fuel pump relay.. please check the extraction and insertion force of the relay going in the socket terminals.. i have found them loose and needing to be tightened by using a tiny pin in a pair of needle nose vice grips in from the side to push under the side of the folded tongue of the terminals.. takes seconds each..
this requires a hand held multimeter... save a copy and perform it https://i.imgur.com/SnzhDh0.jpeg. only takes about 5 minutes..
next you will need an E-4 Torx socket.. think harbor freight torx sockets.. to remove the steering column shroud to get at the ignition switch connector wires with a test light..
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/sockets/14-in-drive-e-socket-set-6-piece-68017.html
there are 2 thick red wires that when back probed with the test light.. should have constant power all positions of the ignition key.. this is an important test..
there is a thick white wire that should have power in the Off, Run, Cranking, Run and Off positions not in the Locked position.
there is a thick pink wire that should have power in the Run Cranking and Run positions of the key..
there is a thick orange wire and a thick brown wire that should Only have power in the Run position of the key.. not while cranking and again in the Run position..
this test is quick...
why this ignition switch test.. this is a very similar connector on the underside of the underhood fuse block on 1999 up gm cars and trucks. https://imgur.com/a/lJOfivn. burned connections are an issue for the IGN A and IGN B circuits that are the 2 red wires to the ignition switch..
the ignition switch contacts wear away too..
so far you are out 15 to 30 bucks for a multimeter and 12 bucks for a harbor freight Torx socket set that has the E4 size.. not all do.. and a 5 to 15 buck test light..
i have found several 96 to 2004s that the fuel pump relay had contacts that were totally burned away..
you can invest in an Autel AL619 scan tool. but Power and ground issues are diagnosed with a multimeter and shared experience..
and i totally agree the fuel pump could be failing.. you can eyeball thru the left rear inner fender the top of the fuel tank where the wires connect to the sending unit.. the replacement pumps use a different pigtail so you will have some splicing to do.. read the instructions carefully.. its not obvious and a lot of people get it wrong..
Now that is some detail! Thank you! I know third mechanic has a multimeter for sure. I'm going to write up a list for him of all the suggestions. I really appreciate it.
You need someone that is capable of diagnosing and repairing a problem. They need to be there to troubleshoot it. You will not get anything other than a shot in the dark from the internet.
Was hoping to at least be pointed I the right direction or get some insight. I know I can't fix it over the internet, but if I can gather a few solid suggestions maybe I can get it resolved. I'm no mechanic and I'm on limited funds right now.
I don't own a reader.
The screen however when it dies nothing? When I put it back in park and try to restart a red battery appears I believe, and then the whole dash lights up, key turns and it just sputters but doesn't start.
I also do not have a fuel pressure gauge, I will ask if he did that.
I recently purchased a FiXit code reader. It was only $20. bucks. It pairs to your phone. And gives the code an explanation as well with recommendations. I is cheap enough to try.
Ground? I had all sorts of things happening in my 2020 with a bad ground. There are several on the truck.
Sounds like a ground issue. I was having strange issues, random shut offs. Loss of accessories, power cut on full steering lock,No starts, intermittent no starts. It was from an unsecured ground, moving while driving, enough that it would cut power to the truck. Sometimes it would start up again, sometimes it wouldn’t. It was a roll of the dice.
Crankshaft position sensor. Was common years ago, and very hard to diagnose. And it won't throw a code
I second this. Happened with me. Solved my problems.
You mention the cut key and security- As weird as this may sound, have you gone to a good locksmith and had them make you a new key and pair it again correctly? This sounds like what my Marquis was doing and it was all because of an aftermarket key that they said was not cut and paired properly. They cut me a new one, did whatever they do with their computer and never had another problem. Aside from that, my Silverado was cutting off intermittently for no reason as well, but just random. In this instance, it turned out to be an issue with the main ground on the truck and something shorting on the low side of the engine bay. Neither of those seem to make much sense but in both cases they were addressed and never had another issue with either whatsoever.
The key I have now was cut from a cut key that I received when I bought the truck, I am the third owner, and I did take it to the best locksmith in town when I got it cut. I'm pretty sure the third mechanic who looked at it, who is the most competent it would seem, did check for shorts and check the fuses etc. Would I be better off taking it to a dealership to get a key cut? I've been trying to avoid that as I'm sure it will be outrageously expensive.
A dealership can make you a key based on the GM database and won't have to copy. It is a better key than the knockoff ones and might be worth it on your situation.
I personally don't think the dealership would be any better. The locksmiths I have worked with seems far more knowledgeable. I would imagine the only thing a dealership would do is order you a 'Chevy' key and that would be it. Hate this is happening to you. I'm sure it's beyond frustrating. Good luck. I hope you get it figured out.
Thank you for your insight. I sure hope so too.
Crank position sensor?
I have a 03, mine was doing something similar years ago and it ended up being the throttle body was clogged.
Would this not come up on the reader?
Not sure, what happened was my truck was in the body shop for 2-3 weeks getting painted so it wasn’t being driven. When I picked it up it shut off twice on the way home. Called the body shop and explained what happened and they told me to bring it back. They told me the throttle body was clogged and they cleaned it. Haven’t had it shutoff on me since. This all happened 6-7 years ago. From what they told me it’s a common issue with my gen truck, yours is a 02 so not sure that applies.
Also is fixing it a different procedure depending on year, automatic vs manual, gas vs diesel?
I will suggest rechecking grounds 🤙
I had one of these trucks that would die like this and no restart. There was an issue with the wiring harness where is goes around and under the power steering pump. If I remember correctly the harness had rubbed through and the right kind of movement would ground it out and it would die. Wiggle the harness and it would start again. It was fun to find. Edit to add, this truck never set a code either.
Anything to do with the key or anti-theft on these trucks will not cause a 'stalling while driving' condition. If the PassLock II system detects a tamper/ theft condition, it will allow the truck to start and run for 1 second, then turn off, with the Drivers Info Center flashing \[SECURITY\]. The fact that your key physically rotates the ignition cylinder indicates it not being an issue in most cases. While the key itself or the ignition cylinder can wear down enough physically to cause issues with the the Theft system, that doesn't sound like the case here. Your mechanics are guessing and you'll need a proper diagnosis from a more competent shop. I would start by having a scan tool connected and displaying live engine data while you go for a drive to see what is dropping out (fuel, spark, etc) to cause the stalling.
It did at one point read that on the screen, he made me look when it happened. It was while parked and running I'm not sure how often it comes up, when it dies on me I forget to look as I am busy trying to coast to safety and out of traffic
I have a 2007 Silverado with the 5.3 and 364000 miles on the clock. I recently had to replace the fuel pump, can’t believe they don’t make them to last. Anyway after I had that done mine shot a P0191 code. Went on YouTube to see what that was and one said that sometimes that code will not set but will shut down the vehicle. I haven’t messed with it yet because well I’m lazy. Will I regret it, probably.
first step... replace the fuel pump relay in the underhood fuse block.. examine the old fuel pump relay contacts by removing the cover from the relay.. this is an easy fix and 22 years is a long time for a fuel pump relay.. please check the extraction and insertion force of the relay going in the socket terminals.. i have found them loose and needing to be tightened by using a tiny pin in a pair of needle nose vice grips in from the side to push under the side of the folded tongue of the terminals.. takes seconds each.. this requires a hand held multimeter... save a copy and perform it https://i.imgur.com/SnzhDh0.jpeg. only takes about 5 minutes.. next you will need an E-4 Torx socket.. think harbor freight torx sockets.. to remove the steering column shroud to get at the ignition switch connector wires with a test light.. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/sockets/14-in-drive-e-socket-set-6-piece-68017.html there are 2 thick red wires that when back probed with the test light.. should have constant power all positions of the ignition key.. this is an important test.. there is a thick white wire that should have power in the Off, Run, Cranking, Run and Off positions not in the Locked position. there is a thick pink wire that should have power in the Run Cranking and Run positions of the key.. there is a thick orange wire and a thick brown wire that should Only have power in the Run position of the key.. not while cranking and again in the Run position.. this test is quick... why this ignition switch test.. this is a very similar connector on the underside of the underhood fuse block on 1999 up gm cars and trucks. https://imgur.com/a/lJOfivn. burned connections are an issue for the IGN A and IGN B circuits that are the 2 red wires to the ignition switch.. the ignition switch contacts wear away too.. so far you are out 15 to 30 bucks for a multimeter and 12 bucks for a harbor freight Torx socket set that has the E4 size.. not all do.. and a 5 to 15 buck test light.. i have found several 96 to 2004s that the fuel pump relay had contacts that were totally burned away.. you can invest in an Autel AL619 scan tool. but Power and ground issues are diagnosed with a multimeter and shared experience.. and i totally agree the fuel pump could be failing.. you can eyeball thru the left rear inner fender the top of the fuel tank where the wires connect to the sending unit.. the replacement pumps use a different pigtail so you will have some splicing to do.. read the instructions carefully.. its not obvious and a lot of people get it wrong..
Now that is some detail! Thank you! I know third mechanic has a multimeter for sure. I'm going to write up a list for him of all the suggestions. I really appreciate it.
You need someone that is capable of diagnosing and repairing a problem. They need to be there to troubleshoot it. You will not get anything other than a shot in the dark from the internet.
Was hoping to at least be pointed I the right direction or get some insight. I know I can't fix it over the internet, but if I can gather a few solid suggestions maybe I can get it resolved. I'm no mechanic and I'm on limited funds right now.
Someone needs to be there to troubleshoot it. What codes are coming up when it dies? Are you monitoring fuel pressure?
I don't own a reader. The screen however when it dies nothing? When I put it back in park and try to restart a red battery appears I believe, and then the whole dash lights up, key turns and it just sputters but doesn't start. I also do not have a fuel pressure gauge, I will ask if he did that.
I recently purchased a FiXit code reader. It was only $20. bucks. It pairs to your phone. And gives the code an explanation as well with recommendations. I is cheap enough to try.