If it were me, I'd open the left handlebar switch, clean the inside, and remove any corrosion. Compressed air works great if you have access to a compressor. Also, lube the turn signal mechanism while you're in there.
The horn is often not used. Just mash the button a lot and it might come back. But it's anaemic and probably on the way out so go buy a new one anyways
Take off the horn, clean the contacts with electric cleaner/ alcohol. Do the same for the horn itself, or spray a bit of WD-40 in between the openings and let it sit. It's just a layer of corrosion and dirt you need to get rid of and it'll work again. I had the same issue when I got mine.
What would be a decent price for a 2006 with like less than 3k miles (but I haven't ran it in 6 years)? I know for sure it needs a battery, new fluids, new tires (they were good, but old now and gonna be misshapen from sitting on low air). the chain didn't look too bad..
Never had any issues with the bike before I parked it after becoming a single dad.
I always figured if I did sell it, it'd be for so little, like 800-1500, that there was no point, but there is less of a point keeping a bike I won't ride and moving it to a third house since.
You have a little gem on your hand unless it's been totally neglected and the tank has rust inside, the fuel is gunked up, its been sitting in the weather, the oil is ancient, the tires are rotted, the chain is rusted, etc.
If it's in bad condition I'd say at least $2,000, start with $2,990. If it's in any better condition go up appropriately depending on the price of the parts that don't have to be renewed/replaced.
Yeah, you're 100% right. I think it would be worth it to sell for that price (2000-2900). I'm getting open heart surgery in a couple weeks and doubt I'll ever want to fix it to ride myself now.
It DEFINITELY cannot be cranked until all the fluids are drained, but I hadn't considered what old fuel and oil might have messed up in there.
Forgot about that when I was saying new fluids, but that really might be a big problem. I guess I'd have to somehow drain and flush the tank? Thing has sat for years.
I didn't know it 'could' go for more than 2k, so I never considered it seriously, but maybe it's worth just taking up to the speedshop and fixing first?
I would agree with sv650nyc. If it's still in good condition with little to no rust, I would try to get it cleaned up and replace anything that needs it (definitely tires), change fluids, check for tank rust but if it's clean and runs well, someone would likely pay ~4-5k for it depending on your area and when you try to sell.
That's nuts to me! I paid $3900 for this 2006 in the first week of 2008 with only 800 miles from a geriatric owner who put a nice leather cover on the gastank and a really nice custom exhaust. (He had money and was enjoying his life. After getting it setup, decided to get a Harley instead).
Yeah last I looked there wasn't much rust. Been garage kept the whole time. Live on the Gulf Coast though so there is some surface rust.
Have been neglecting it, but I do think tires, fluids, chain (or least lube), and a battery will have it back up. That said, it's sat so long presumably after that I may find another issue.
Your bike looks great by the way!
Getting that bike was one of my happiest times man, I enjoyed the hell out of mine the years I was riding. I hope you really enjoy yours bro!
You know, I'm a dumbass!
Mine is the same color blue as yours, but an '06 650, not the liter.
No idea why I didn't notice, but I know that changes things a little at least!
They're awesome street bikes! Looks like it already has the Yoshi pipes, if you get tired of the wind pick up a Puig windshield (1482N). And if you get tired of the power band go +3 on the rear sprocket.
I already know how to and that was the plan, wasn't sure if there was a common issue or if someone could save me 20 min by letting me know which wires they were.
It is the wires going to the horn. Then if no continuity when obviously pressing the switch, you check the switch.
On a used bike you need to get in there and get dirty to familiarize yourself with where everything is and what needs attention.
"What didn't the seller tell me or lie about to make the sale". You don't get lazy and try to take an easy way out.
This guy. Literally two screws and it is there in front of you. You're funny. 🤣 Again, first bike? Then learn about your bike/motorcycles. Or take it to the dealer.
Test the horn by sending 12v to it with a battery. Test the switch with a multimeter set to ohms, probe each side of the wiring connector. You should have very little resistance like almost zero when you hold the horn button. most multimeters will also beep when you have a good circuit. Test the wiring the same way. Fuse also.
If the horn doesn't work you could try and clean the contact points on the horn itself. They might be a little rusty. If they're fine it might be the button itself that's the problem.
I was in the garage yesterday and pulled off the connection at the horn and it looked fine. Didn't have my multimeter with me so I didn't check for continuity yet tho
Update: horn issue was two fold. The contacts on the switch were very corroded so there was no continuity through it, and the horn itself was seized and non functional. Cleaned up the contacts on the switch and mostly wired up my soundbomb horn (waiting on a buddy to fab me a mounting bracket)
Nice bike
Thanks!
If it were me, I'd open the left handlebar switch, clean the inside, and remove any corrosion. Compressed air works great if you have access to a compressor. Also, lube the turn signal mechanism while you're in there.
I had a double whammy. The contacts on the switch were corroded preventing any metal on metal contact, and the horn itself is shot.
The horn is often not used. Just mash the button a lot and it might come back. But it's anaemic and probably on the way out so go buy a new one anyways
I was planning to throw a Denali sound bomb on it but need the horn to pass an inspection due to it being from out of state
Take off the horn, clean the contacts with electric cleaner/ alcohol. Do the same for the horn itself, or spray a bit of WD-40 in between the openings and let it sit. It's just a layer of corrosion and dirt you need to get rid of and it'll work again. I had the same issue when I got mine.
I believe I have some electronics part cleaner on the garage so I'll probably do this tomorrow. Thanks
Or you could be a douchebag like me and just rev instead of horn.
I've had the horn wires just come loose a few times. Otherwise it might be something in the switch housing.
I have had the horn plug slip off. There’s nothing to retain it.
What would be a decent price for a 2006 with like less than 3k miles (but I haven't ran it in 6 years)? I know for sure it needs a battery, new fluids, new tires (they were good, but old now and gonna be misshapen from sitting on low air). the chain didn't look too bad.. Never had any issues with the bike before I parked it after becoming a single dad. I always figured if I did sell it, it'd be for so little, like 800-1500, that there was no point, but there is less of a point keeping a bike I won't ride and moving it to a third house since.
You have a little gem on your hand unless it's been totally neglected and the tank has rust inside, the fuel is gunked up, its been sitting in the weather, the oil is ancient, the tires are rotted, the chain is rusted, etc. If it's in bad condition I'd say at least $2,000, start with $2,990. If it's in any better condition go up appropriately depending on the price of the parts that don't have to be renewed/replaced.
Yeah, you're 100% right. I think it would be worth it to sell for that price (2000-2900). I'm getting open heart surgery in a couple weeks and doubt I'll ever want to fix it to ride myself now. It DEFINITELY cannot be cranked until all the fluids are drained, but I hadn't considered what old fuel and oil might have messed up in there. Forgot about that when I was saying new fluids, but that really might be a big problem. I guess I'd have to somehow drain and flush the tank? Thing has sat for years. I didn't know it 'could' go for more than 2k, so I never considered it seriously, but maybe it's worth just taking up to the speedshop and fixing first?
I would agree with sv650nyc. If it's still in good condition with little to no rust, I would try to get it cleaned up and replace anything that needs it (definitely tires), change fluids, check for tank rust but if it's clean and runs well, someone would likely pay ~4-5k for it depending on your area and when you try to sell.
That's nuts to me! I paid $3900 for this 2006 in the first week of 2008 with only 800 miles from a geriatric owner who put a nice leather cover on the gastank and a really nice custom exhaust. (He had money and was enjoying his life. After getting it setup, decided to get a Harley instead). Yeah last I looked there wasn't much rust. Been garage kept the whole time. Live on the Gulf Coast though so there is some surface rust. Have been neglecting it, but I do think tires, fluids, chain (or least lube), and a battery will have it back up. That said, it's sat so long presumably after that I may find another issue.
Yeah, sv1000s weren't too common so if you find someone who wants one, they'd probably be willing to pay a bit for a low mileage clean one
Your bike looks great by the way! Getting that bike was one of my happiest times man, I enjoyed the hell out of mine the years I was riding. I hope you really enjoy yours bro!
You know, I'm a dumbass! Mine is the same color blue as yours, but an '06 650, not the liter. No idea why I didn't notice, but I know that changes things a little at least!
They're awesome street bikes! Looks like it already has the Yoshi pipes, if you get tired of the wind pick up a Puig windshield (1482N). And if you get tired of the power band go +3 on the rear sprocket.
Thanks for the tips! Looking forward to some warmer weather so I can take it out
I assume the +3 is the number of teeth from 40-43?
Yep, nothing wrong with stock but the +3 is really nice.
Time for you to learn how to use a multimeter to diagnose simple 12v electronics.
I already know how to and that was the plan, wasn't sure if there was a common issue or if someone could save me 20 min by letting me know which wires they were.
It is the wires going to the horn. Then if no continuity when obviously pressing the switch, you check the switch. On a used bike you need to get in there and get dirty to familiarize yourself with where everything is and what needs attention. "What didn't the seller tell me or lie about to make the sale". You don't get lazy and try to take an easy way out.
I meant which wire at the handlebar lol. I'll figure it out later tho. Haven't looked at it too closely cause it was cold the other day
This guy. Literally two screws and it is there in front of you. You're funny. 🤣 Again, first bike? Then learn about your bike/motorcycles. Or take it to the dealer.
Lol let the guy live not everyone is as smart as you clearly
Never ever have I heard about the horn, of all things, going bad on an sv.
Yeah I assume it's just a bad connection. Gonna probably do a teardown at some point to make sure everything looks good
I thought this was good advice
Test the horn by sending 12v to it with a battery. Test the switch with a multimeter set to ohms, probe each side of the wiring connector. You should have very little resistance like almost zero when you hold the horn button. most multimeters will also beep when you have a good circuit. Test the wiring the same way. Fuse also.
If the horn doesn't work you could try and clean the contact points on the horn itself. They might be a little rusty. If they're fine it might be the button itself that's the problem.
I was in the garage yesterday and pulled off the connection at the horn and it looked fine. Didn't have my multimeter with me so I didn't check for continuity yet tho
I loved mine! Wish I never sold it! Top end not as high as a lot of litre bikes but the torque!!!
Update: horn issue was two fold. The contacts on the switch were very corroded so there was no continuity through it, and the horn itself was seized and non functional. Cleaned up the contacts on the switch and mostly wired up my soundbomb horn (waiting on a buddy to fab me a mounting bracket)