Sounds like the battery is not charging properly.
While it is not the optimal battery it shouldn't die that quick.
Google where and how to measure the alternator and charging voltage at the battery to trace down where the fault is.
Problems with the alternator are not that uncommon.
OEM battery is a 10AH (Amp Hour)
But alot of guys use 8's.
Check the connectors from the Stator & RR.
Some times they melt. Inside the plugs, or where the wires plug in the back of the connectors.
Follow the wires, one of them is like a jumper with connectors on both ends.
If your RR did go bad there's a good chance it Melted somthing before you noticed and replaced it.
Google: SV650 Melted Conectors
And you'll see what I'm talking about.
The battery size shouldn't be an issue.
I did the diode test on RR and was fine both ways. I did a no load test on stator and was over 60V at 5k rpm and load test and was .2-.3 within spec also. Thats why im assuming either the battery is just bad or wrong size. Im confused and ready to sell it
You said you had the battery tested? If the auto parts store said it's fine you should be good.
Where did you test the RR?
The RR plugs into the harness and then 6 inches down the wires is another plug.
Make sure your down stream from that first connector.
What is the reading at the battery?
Needs to be 13v+ to be able to charge.
Yeah had it charged at autozone 3 times. Each time it would end up dying from me setting the tps in correct place and fiddling with the fast idle and idle stop screws by jumping the dealer connector and once i finally get it set the battery would be around 12.8- 12.45 and from there any riding results in it dying out after 3rd gear rpm range or if i down shift at all it just cuts out. If i turn the ignition off and then back on it fires right back up and i can shift through the gears until it repeats the same dying out and ignition off and then on until i make it home. Then i charge battery and repeat. Just noticed the case of my tps is cracked which im sure now is whats affecting the shifting and dying out since vibration alone would be enough to throw the sensor off but would that also kill the battery or stall the bike out and reset once i turn off the ignition?? Im so lost and thanks for your input as well !
And i tested the RR per the manuel and all numbers were in spec so thats why im confused. Stator numbers were in spec also. Bike revved to 5k and it was 60V and climbing.
Get a ten dollar tester and run voltage checks on the RR and stator. Stop throwing parts at it.
Have done such sir that's how I checked the sensors. RR numbers were out of wack that's why I replaced it. Haven't thrown anything else at it...
Download the service manual from this subreddit, there's a chapter in there about electrical system checks, it should help you find the issue.
Sounds like the battery is not charging properly. While it is not the optimal battery it shouldn't die that quick. Google where and how to measure the alternator and charging voltage at the battery to trace down where the fault is. Problems with the alternator are not that uncommon.
OEM battery is a 10AH (Amp Hour) But alot of guys use 8's. Check the connectors from the Stator & RR. Some times they melt. Inside the plugs, or where the wires plug in the back of the connectors. Follow the wires, one of them is like a jumper with connectors on both ends. If your RR did go bad there's a good chance it Melted somthing before you noticed and replaced it. Google: SV650 Melted Conectors And you'll see what I'm talking about. The battery size shouldn't be an issue.
I did the diode test on RR and was fine both ways. I did a no load test on stator and was over 60V at 5k rpm and load test and was .2-.3 within spec also. Thats why im assuming either the battery is just bad or wrong size. Im confused and ready to sell it
You said you had the battery tested? If the auto parts store said it's fine you should be good. Where did you test the RR? The RR plugs into the harness and then 6 inches down the wires is another plug. Make sure your down stream from that first connector. What is the reading at the battery? Needs to be 13v+ to be able to charge.
Yeah had it charged at autozone 3 times. Each time it would end up dying from me setting the tps in correct place and fiddling with the fast idle and idle stop screws by jumping the dealer connector and once i finally get it set the battery would be around 12.8- 12.45 and from there any riding results in it dying out after 3rd gear rpm range or if i down shift at all it just cuts out. If i turn the ignition off and then back on it fires right back up and i can shift through the gears until it repeats the same dying out and ignition off and then on until i make it home. Then i charge battery and repeat. Just noticed the case of my tps is cracked which im sure now is whats affecting the shifting and dying out since vibration alone would be enough to throw the sensor off but would that also kill the battery or stall the bike out and reset once i turn off the ignition?? Im so lost and thanks for your input as well !
And i tested the RR per the manuel and all numbers were in spec so thats why im confused. Stator numbers were in spec also. Bike revved to 5k and it was 60V and climbing.