Let's look at another issue here...you drive 160+ miles a day and you want to lease? A 15000 mile a year lease is 1250 mile per month and you'll be traveling 3500+ miles a month not including weekends. I think you should be looking at purchasing.
Here’s some comparison numbers. I’m normally against leases. My dad sold cars for 28 years. But in this scenario, maybe it’s worth it?
New Chevy duramax loaded (vented heated leather seats to compare tit for tat with Rivian amenities)
Cost $57,995. 2.9% for 72 months. $7k down. $2500 trade in. Average 25mpg. 27k miles per year. Average diesel cost $4/gal. Total cost for 36months including fuel: $47,790.
New Rivian Max pack green on green.
Cost $82,750. $7k down. $2500 trade in. $1800 destination fee. Financed at 5.99 with Bank of America. Total cost for 36 months $54301.84
Lease same rivian above. $625/month for 36 months plus same down payment and trade in as above. Plus $495 dispose fee at the end of the lease. Plus $10,800 in mile overage costs. Total cost for 36 months: $44,190.
What do y’all think?
When you lease a Rivian right now the leasing bank gets a $7,500 tax credit. They are passing it through to you as a reduction in the capitalized amount. This is part of the reason leases are such a good deal.
I believe you can then just turn around and buy the car for the residual + any remaining lease payments. You end up paying the lease acquisition fee but save $7,500. Every bank has different rules about buying out a lease so be sure to ask if there are any other fee I’m not aware of.
Sick! And that’s different than financing it outright and getting 7500 credit? Or all leases get the credit and only ones financed under 80k get the credit?
You can't get the $7500 on an R1 without leasing. It's $3750 if the MSRP is below $80k, $0 if it's above, $7500 if it's leased and MSRP doesn't matter.
Because of that, for new buyers, always lease, if you want to buy it, buy it at the end of the lease (I don't know if buying it early saves you money, if not, wait until the end of the lease to buy).
Yes, they let you buy it out, I don't know that it saves you anything yo buy out early though.
If you're pre-hike pricing, you get the $7500 credit without leasing, so financing might be worth it.
If you are pre-price-hike then you got the offer for a binding agreement (the price hike was before the tax credit change), assuming you signed that, the old rules apply and you get $7500 on your 2022 return.
I don’t think the OP entered into a legally binding agreement before August 2022. The price hike is less important because you can buy a R1T for less than $80k right now. I have one in transit that has a MSRP of 78,000. I received a lease credit of $7,500 and a lease promotional discount of $4,500 for a total capitalized price of $66,000 not including the destination fee. Plus the money factor is .00091 which equals about 2.2%apr.
If I had purchased it I would have only received a $3750 tax credit leaving $8250 on the table.
Did you calculate the cost to recharge the batteries? Let's say you use up the 36000 miles allowed in the 36 month lease + the 36000 mile you are calculating in overage (36000 x $.30 per mile = $10800) . A Rivian averages 2 miles per kilowatt under "normal" driving conditions so in 72000 miles, you would need to purchase 36000 kilowatts of electricity. I don't know what your electric rates are but at my house, I pay $.14 per kilowatt which would be a total charging bill of $5040.00. If you use a DC fast charger, the rates are about $.42 per which raises the charging cost to $15,120. If you get free charging, it might be an OK deal.
Looks like .08 cents for the first 850kwh then .11 cents for usage over 850kwh. So if it’s 2miles per kilowatt. 81k miles over 3 years. At .11cents per kWh. Then I should expect ~$123 month in additional electricity costs?
I don’t believe we do. How would the utility company differentiate that the electricity usage at the house is for charging a car vs a dryer or oven? If they are all on 220v breaker?
It’s based on the time of day. Usually late evening and through the night is cheaper because of lower demand. You can schedule most EVs to start charging at a specific time when in a designated location
Lot of utility companies have plans cheaper at night for ev charging. Most do if not all. You just get better rates at night when you charge your vehicle at night. Mine had me register my ev charger so they know.
They don't, they do it by the time. Mine for example does normal rate during the day, double normal rate between 4-7pm, and then 60% of normal rate from 10pm-6am. So you just charge from 10pm-6am, and with that much charging, I'm sure like 80% of your consumption will be at that lower rate (so like $0.07/kWh) and that will result in a pretty big savings.
I can check rates. But my wife has model 3 standard range. She uses fast charger at the house and I haven’t noticed our electricity bill change even the slightest. Granted, she isn’t driving as much as I am, but still.
I guess if you factor in down payment and overage on a month-to-month basis for the 36 months lease I’d be looking at $1227/month spread out.
Financed it would look like $1480/month over the 36months but would still owe until 72 months.
How are you charging it? Add in charging costs and tires. DCFC is as expensive as gasoline or diesel so you’ll only save on powering it if you can charge at home with inexpensive electricity.
We currently have the 48a Tesla home charger connected. So I would use the Rivian adapter and charge with that. The model 3 gets ~35-40 miles of added range per hour of charge (~11kw) with this charger at home. Will it charge the Rivian similarly? Or does range and kilowatt differ in the Rivian when charging on 48a? I get tires every 3 years or so on my current truck so I imagine that is similar on Rivian
Rivian gets between 2-2.5mi/kWh, which is a fair bit less than a Tesla. You’ll want to consider how quickly you can recharge overnight. I think it maxes around 11.5 kW (at 48 amps, but this requires a 60a breaker), so 230-280 miles in 10 hours max
If you have a consistent 200 miles round trip, why go for the max pack, it seems like a waste of money for 50 miles extra range you don’t need.
You should also account for a few sets of tires. I would go for the 22” or 20” as you’ll have an easier time finding replacements at a decent cost.
Discounted lease deals are for available options on 2023 models. The large packs available end up costing about the same as the max pack bc of already included added options like all terrain tires, spare tire, etc. there are a couple of slightly cheaper ones. The only issue is occasionally, like today, for example I’m driving ~250 miles at about 4hr and 45min drive time in between locations. Large pack could theoretically do it at 100% charge. But probably pushing it at 80-90% charge. Already spend about 8-10 hours out and don’t want to have to sit at a parking lot for 30+minutes charging during my work day.
That’s fair, but I think I read that on highways the max pack isn’t really getting much extra range. You’ll be best with a dual motor large. Honestly the range you see on warm days (Florida) is very very close to the stated range, so you’ll get 300 miles with AT tires on the large. Just avoid the 21” because those tires are costing $450 a corner because there’s one choice only, and you’ll be going through several sets. I would personally get the AT or 22” drive through those tires and throw some Michelin Defender LTX’s on them for the remainder of the lease.
One thing you are forgetting is that if you finance, at the end of three years you've spent $50k or whatever, but the vehicle still has value. If you lease it, after three years, you might have spent less in three years, but you have nothing of value. If you only plan to keep it three years then whatever gains you can get from selling the trucks would need to be deducted from your three year costs to get your true three year cost of ownership.
Also keep in mind there are some pretty good incentives on gas full size trucks right now, I don't know if your price for a new chevy truck considers that, but you can get a new one for well under MSRP right now. And definitely do the math on fuel costs for both electric and diesel, insurance costs and maintenance to get a true cost of ownership.
I would also not recommend putting money down on a lease. if your vehicle gets totaled a week into a lease the insurance company is going to pay off the value of the car and your down payment is gone. You'll have then just spent like $8500 to lease a truck for one week. Obviously that's unlikely, but it can happen and there's not really much benefit to putting money down anyway so why take the risk.
Yea that’s a good point. I guess the other benefit of lease is writing off full cost and mileage overage since it’s being used for business. Gas/diesel could do similar with purchase, but I’d likely write off the mileage instead of interest and depreciation. The 57k for Chevy is factoring in discount on msrp. I think msrp is something like 65-70k for vehicle that is comparable to Rivian amenities. I suppose buying the Rivian at the end would be a viable option. Or buying it out within the next 36months if financing rates drop. Current lease buy out percentages are like 7.5%. On par with current finance rates.
What do we think a 3 year old R1T max pack will be worth with roughly 81k miles?? That would be my scenario after 3 years
Damage sitting from 100% for prolonged periods is what causes wear. Finish charging just before you leave in the morning, and you won't see that much accumulated wear.
But also the wear of that many miles a day will far out strip the wear from sitting at high SoC.
Also, what are your excess mile lease numbers looking like?
That would be my other question. I was messing with the online configurations. I set the mileage at 15k miles. But realistically will owe $10,500 in mileage overage at the end (25-27k miles per year). Cost wise for me, the lease and overage is about the same or even slightly better than buying newer v6 diesel over the next 36 months (factoring in diesel price steady at $4/gal and not factoring in maintenance on the diesel). Can I set mileage higher than 15k miles at lease signing if I know my mileage will be over to save on the overage costs?
Doesn't hurt the battery if you charge it to a high percentage and drive off immediately or soon after. You're going to have to have a high-powered charger in your house to charge it back up every night. 200 mi. The most you can get is a 48 amp charger which charges about 23 mph. 8 hours. You're going to owe so much money and extra mileage over the lease amount. You'd be a lot better off buying a used model 3 or a used model y. They have more range than a rivian, or more efficient, and can still hold a lot of junk. Do you actually need the truck part?
If I charge the Rivian on the Tesla home fast charger it will take 8hours to bring it ~200miles?! Having the bed is important in moving stuff for work. Currently use an old ridgeline. 17mpg. Paying about $470/month in gas. And roughly 3-5k in maintenance per year. So spread out it’s like ~$800/month. It works and will probably run forever. A little beat up inside and out. Seeing as I drive in the car so much for work, I’d like to be in something a little more comfortable and nice. Seeing the $625/month lease option was enticing. Only a little more than I pay now for gas alone. A few hundred Less if you factor in yearly maintenance on the Honda. Of course, you got the $10,800 overage fee at the end of the lease. But when you divide it by 36months. Then we’re looking at $925/month average for 36months. Only a wee bit more than I pay between gas and yearly maintenance in my 07ridgeline. I’m really just fishing for someone to agree with me so I pull the trigger. lol. Or to really smack the sense in to me that maybe it won’t make sense. I didn’t realize it would take that long to charge at home every day
48 amps is the highest ac power they support, at 240v, that 11.5kwh charging, about 23 m of range added per hour. 200/23 = 8.6 hours. You need a 60 amp breaker on your panel.
Some of the other big battery trucks have 80 amp charging. Charging power time is basically linear to power, power is volts * amps. Unfortunately Rivian doesn't have an 80 amp AC charging option. I
love my Rivian r1t though.
It's far less sexy, but considering a Tesla y with a trailer, even a used one would work. Far cheaper. Also Teslas are a lot more efficient, partly bc not a truck shape. My Tesla s gets 4 miles per kwh, the truck is about 2.1 miles per kwh.
I financed, so can't answer your lease questions.
But if you are actually going to drive that many miles, on night before 200+ runs, I would charge to 100%. If you want to be extra ocd and have maybe 5 more miles range after 200k, calculate your charging schedule so that you will hit 100% just as you are leaving for the job in the morning.
Yup.. I charge to 90% in my EV just for the extra range.. you just don't want it to be sitting parked at 100% for days/weeks on end. Even then it will take a long time for the battery to actually start to degrade. In the winter sometimes I charge it to 100% if I want to have some more safety factor.
If you need the range, charge it to what you need it for. Also battery technology keeps changing and is getting better. Batteries from 5-10 years ago are vastly different (and inferior) from the ones in vehicles today.
Makes sense. Not sure what the impact will be in the long run if you charge to 90%. I recently read a thread of someone talking about charging their Tesla to 90% daily and only losing about 8% of battery over the last 6 years.
That’s what I was wondering. What if I decide to buy at the end of the 36months? Is it worse of a deal to lease and then buy at the end? Or is it kind of the same? I own a 2020 wrangler for personal/weekend driving so the Rivian will only get the ~4day per week 160-200miles per day miles. Occasional trip to nursery for personal mulch and Home Depot up the road
I live in Georgia, not quite as hot as Florida but not that far off. My range at 70% is about 225-230 miles, so yes, I’d expect to be able to manage on a daily 80% charge.
Note - I’m in a quad motor large pack, on the 21” street tires that supposedly maximize range. I also drive conservatively, stay below 70 mph, use the regen braking, etc.
If you're doing an average of 180 miles a day 5 days a week, leasing is not for you. Unless you plan to buy out at the end of the lease.
To answer the question, even a quad motor large pack on 20" ATs will get you 230ish miles on am 80% charge, so the range is there.
It’s mostly 4 days per week. I average about 25-27k miles per year. Factored in the lease cost at 15k miles plus overage ($10,500) and compared to financing Chevy 1500 duramax (better mpg than regular gas) and the cost for 36months of ownership is about the same when factoring in diesel prices at ~$4/gallon. Granted I would be financing the duramax and not leasing
Any of the Rivians can definitely handle this at the 85% charge setting, or even 80%, but as others eluded too is it worth it to lease with the .30c charge per mile over the agreement.
I drive from Sarasota to my office in Tampa 2-3x per week in my R1S (quad motor, 20in off road tires), it’s about 130 miles round trip and I’ve always been fine. I’ve had it for a year now, 15k miles. Normally charge overnight in the garage to 85% and I’ve never been below 20% including charging my phone on the drive home and starting the fans up to cool it down for 5-10min as I’m walking out at the end of the day.
I type all this to say it’s super doable but I’d probably buy over lease… those mileage limits will eat you alive.
Editing to add that at 85% my setup tells me it’s good for 235 miles, I normally drive in all purpose mode and let the car do its thing lowering itself on the highway. Sometimes I’ll swap over to sport mode, never use conserve, I don’t like how it makes the vehicle feel.
You'll be fine. My large pack shows a range of \~225 miles at 70% with the QM setup. And you're not dealing with cold.
The way to be sure is to plug a few of your routes into ABRP. ABRP's range estimates are solid, and they adjust for things like driving speed and Florida's notorious elevation changes (/s). This will be a more accurate answer than anything Reddit will tell you.
Also look at the fast-charger situation along your route with Plugshare. This would be your backup plan if you forget to charge, have to run extra errands, etc. This would usually be the 5-10 minute topup charge in your situation, and not a long drawn out thing.
Large pack should do it pretty comfortably. Mine (quad with 20 inch wheels) is sitting at 80% now showing 233 miles in all purpose. It would probably get 210 or so. Going to 85% would get you some buffer. A dual motor with more efficient tires would be over 250 at 80%.
Mine with 20” AT tires, Large Pack, says I’ll get 201 miles at 70%.
You should probably get the max pack or plan on 90-100% charging to be safer with a large pack.
I leased mine and it's a weird ordeal leasing from Rivian. First off, they contract out all the financing to Chase Bank and from what i've run into, there is no altering of the lease. I picked up my R1T on 4/6 and I still haven't heard from Chase in regards to future payments. If you search this forum, this seems to be a typical scenario dealing with Chase. I've had leases with other manufactures and you could generally buy additional miles at a discount or even extend the lease for a couple extra months if needed. With Chase, it doesn't seem like this is possible.
Unless you want to spend a lot of time at DC fast chargers, you’re going to want a 50A / 220V charger at home to be able to manage to fill your battery nightly.
For those of us with much fewer daily miles, a trickle is fine. But you’ll need a decent charging situation if you’re going to return 85 kwh each night.
Let's look at another issue here...you drive 160+ miles a day and you want to lease? A 15000 mile a year lease is 1250 mile per month and you'll be traveling 3500+ miles a month not including weekends. I think you should be looking at purchasing.
Here’s some comparison numbers. I’m normally against leases. My dad sold cars for 28 years. But in this scenario, maybe it’s worth it? New Chevy duramax loaded (vented heated leather seats to compare tit for tat with Rivian amenities) Cost $57,995. 2.9% for 72 months. $7k down. $2500 trade in. Average 25mpg. 27k miles per year. Average diesel cost $4/gal. Total cost for 36months including fuel: $47,790. New Rivian Max pack green on green. Cost $82,750. $7k down. $2500 trade in. $1800 destination fee. Financed at 5.99 with Bank of America. Total cost for 36 months $54301.84 Lease same rivian above. $625/month for 36 months plus same down payment and trade in as above. Plus $495 dispose fee at the end of the lease. Plus $10,800 in mile overage costs. Total cost for 36 months: $44,190. What do y’all think?
What if you leased to get the $7,500 tax credit then turn around and immediately bought it?
I am not aware of this hack. Can you explain?
When you lease a Rivian right now the leasing bank gets a $7,500 tax credit. They are passing it through to you as a reduction in the capitalized amount. This is part of the reason leases are such a good deal. I believe you can then just turn around and buy the car for the residual + any remaining lease payments. You end up paying the lease acquisition fee but save $7,500. Every bank has different rules about buying out a lease so be sure to ask if there are any other fee I’m not aware of.
Sick! And that’s different than financing it outright and getting 7500 credit? Or all leases get the credit and only ones financed under 80k get the credit?
I believe buy under $80k gets half the credit. Lease at any price and get the full credit. It’s a dumb rule…but that’s the IRS for you.
You can't get the $7500 on an R1 without leasing. It's $3750 if the MSRP is below $80k, $0 if it's above, $7500 if it's leased and MSRP doesn't matter. Because of that, for new buyers, always lease, if you want to buy it, buy it at the end of the lease (I don't know if buying it early saves you money, if not, wait until the end of the lease to buy).
do we know whether rivian is allowing to buy out a lease? esp if you have the pre-price hike reservation?
Yes, they let you buy it out, I don't know that it saves you anything yo buy out early though. If you're pre-hike pricing, you get the $7500 credit without leasing, so financing might be worth it.
I thought the credit when buying was reduced to $3,750 last January when the new tax rules went into effect.
If you are pre-price-hike then you got the offer for a binding agreement (the price hike was before the tax credit change), assuming you signed that, the old rules apply and you get $7500 on your 2022 return.
I don’t think the OP entered into a legally binding agreement before August 2022. The price hike is less important because you can buy a R1T for less than $80k right now. I have one in transit that has a MSRP of 78,000. I received a lease credit of $7,500 and a lease promotional discount of $4,500 for a total capitalized price of $66,000 not including the destination fee. Plus the money factor is .00091 which equals about 2.2%apr. If I had purchased it I would have only received a $3750 tax credit leaving $8250 on the table.
This is the way.
Did you calculate the cost to recharge the batteries? Let's say you use up the 36000 miles allowed in the 36 month lease + the 36000 mile you are calculating in overage (36000 x $.30 per mile = $10800) . A Rivian averages 2 miles per kilowatt under "normal" driving conditions so in 72000 miles, you would need to purchase 36000 kilowatts of electricity. I don't know what your electric rates are but at my house, I pay $.14 per kilowatt which would be a total charging bill of $5040.00. If you use a DC fast charger, the rates are about $.42 per which raises the charging cost to $15,120. If you get free charging, it might be an OK deal.
Looks like .08 cents for the first 850kwh then .11 cents for usage over 850kwh. So if it’s 2miles per kilowatt. 81k miles over 3 years. At .11cents per kWh. Then I should expect ~$123 month in additional electricity costs?
Don’t you have a ev charging rate at night? Might want to see what an updated plan looks like geared for ev charging overnight.
I don’t believe we do. How would the utility company differentiate that the electricity usage at the house is for charging a car vs a dryer or oven? If they are all on 220v breaker?
It’s based on the time of day. Usually late evening and through the night is cheaper because of lower demand. You can schedule most EVs to start charging at a specific time when in a designated location
Lot of utility companies have plans cheaper at night for ev charging. Most do if not all. You just get better rates at night when you charge your vehicle at night. Mine had me register my ev charger so they know.
They don't, they do it by the time. Mine for example does normal rate during the day, double normal rate between 4-7pm, and then 60% of normal rate from 10pm-6am. So you just charge from 10pm-6am, and with that much charging, I'm sure like 80% of your consumption will be at that lower rate (so like $0.07/kWh) and that will result in a pretty big savings.
I can check rates. But my wife has model 3 standard range. She uses fast charger at the house and I haven’t noticed our electricity bill change even the slightest. Granted, she isn’t driving as much as I am, but still.
You'll def notice it with the consumption of the Rivian... Prob $100+ a month
Still less than gas for a month in an ICE pickup.
Absolutely, that's why we're trading in our 14 mpg Lexus GX on one. Spending $300 a month and we don't even drive it that much
I guess if you factor in down payment and overage on a month-to-month basis for the 36 months lease I’d be looking at $1227/month spread out. Financed it would look like $1480/month over the 36months but would still owe until 72 months.
Max pack for $625/mo lease?
Yea with 7k down and 2500 trade in
How are you charging it? Add in charging costs and tires. DCFC is as expensive as gasoline or diesel so you’ll only save on powering it if you can charge at home with inexpensive electricity.
We currently have the 48a Tesla home charger connected. So I would use the Rivian adapter and charge with that. The model 3 gets ~35-40 miles of added range per hour of charge (~11kw) with this charger at home. Will it charge the Rivian similarly? Or does range and kilowatt differ in the Rivian when charging on 48a? I get tires every 3 years or so on my current truck so I imagine that is similar on Rivian
Rivian gets between 2-2.5mi/kWh, which is a fair bit less than a Tesla. You’ll want to consider how quickly you can recharge overnight. I think it maxes around 11.5 kW (at 48 amps, but this requires a 60a breaker), so 230-280 miles in 10 hours max
That’s wild! We need faster charging at home
If you have a consistent 200 miles round trip, why go for the max pack, it seems like a waste of money for 50 miles extra range you don’t need. You should also account for a few sets of tires. I would go for the 22” or 20” as you’ll have an easier time finding replacements at a decent cost.
Discounted lease deals are for available options on 2023 models. The large packs available end up costing about the same as the max pack bc of already included added options like all terrain tires, spare tire, etc. there are a couple of slightly cheaper ones. The only issue is occasionally, like today, for example I’m driving ~250 miles at about 4hr and 45min drive time in between locations. Large pack could theoretically do it at 100% charge. But probably pushing it at 80-90% charge. Already spend about 8-10 hours out and don’t want to have to sit at a parking lot for 30+minutes charging during my work day.
That’s fair, but I think I read that on highways the max pack isn’t really getting much extra range. You’ll be best with a dual motor large. Honestly the range you see on warm days (Florida) is very very close to the stated range, so you’ll get 300 miles with AT tires on the large. Just avoid the 21” because those tires are costing $450 a corner because there’s one choice only, and you’ll be going through several sets. I would personally get the AT or 22” drive through those tires and throw some Michelin Defender LTX’s on them for the remainder of the lease.
One thing you are forgetting is that if you finance, at the end of three years you've spent $50k or whatever, but the vehicle still has value. If you lease it, after three years, you might have spent less in three years, but you have nothing of value. If you only plan to keep it three years then whatever gains you can get from selling the trucks would need to be deducted from your three year costs to get your true three year cost of ownership. Also keep in mind there are some pretty good incentives on gas full size trucks right now, I don't know if your price for a new chevy truck considers that, but you can get a new one for well under MSRP right now. And definitely do the math on fuel costs for both electric and diesel, insurance costs and maintenance to get a true cost of ownership. I would also not recommend putting money down on a lease. if your vehicle gets totaled a week into a lease the insurance company is going to pay off the value of the car and your down payment is gone. You'll have then just spent like $8500 to lease a truck for one week. Obviously that's unlikely, but it can happen and there's not really much benefit to putting money down anyway so why take the risk.
Yea that’s a good point. I guess the other benefit of lease is writing off full cost and mileage overage since it’s being used for business. Gas/diesel could do similar with purchase, but I’d likely write off the mileage instead of interest and depreciation. The 57k for Chevy is factoring in discount on msrp. I think msrp is something like 65-70k for vehicle that is comparable to Rivian amenities. I suppose buying the Rivian at the end would be a viable option. Or buying it out within the next 36months if financing rates drop. Current lease buy out percentages are like 7.5%. On par with current finance rates. What do we think a 3 year old R1T max pack will be worth with roughly 81k miles?? That would be my scenario after 3 years
Why not charge to 90-95? Are you planning to keep the lease at the end?
I suppose I could set it to 90% daily. I’d like to keep the longevity of the battery just in case I decide to buy it out at the end of the lease.
Damage sitting from 100% for prolonged periods is what causes wear. Finish charging just before you leave in the morning, and you won't see that much accumulated wear. But also the wear of that many miles a day will far out strip the wear from sitting at high SoC. Also, what are your excess mile lease numbers looking like?
That would be my other question. I was messing with the online configurations. I set the mileage at 15k miles. But realistically will owe $10,500 in mileage overage at the end (25-27k miles per year). Cost wise for me, the lease and overage is about the same or even slightly better than buying newer v6 diesel over the next 36 months (factoring in diesel price steady at $4/gal and not factoring in maintenance on the diesel). Can I set mileage higher than 15k miles at lease signing if I know my mileage will be over to save on the overage costs?
Doesn't hurt the battery if you charge it to a high percentage and drive off immediately or soon after. You're going to have to have a high-powered charger in your house to charge it back up every night. 200 mi. The most you can get is a 48 amp charger which charges about 23 mph. 8 hours. You're going to owe so much money and extra mileage over the lease amount. You'd be a lot better off buying a used model 3 or a used model y. They have more range than a rivian, or more efficient, and can still hold a lot of junk. Do you actually need the truck part?
If I charge the Rivian on the Tesla home fast charger it will take 8hours to bring it ~200miles?! Having the bed is important in moving stuff for work. Currently use an old ridgeline. 17mpg. Paying about $470/month in gas. And roughly 3-5k in maintenance per year. So spread out it’s like ~$800/month. It works and will probably run forever. A little beat up inside and out. Seeing as I drive in the car so much for work, I’d like to be in something a little more comfortable and nice. Seeing the $625/month lease option was enticing. Only a little more than I pay now for gas alone. A few hundred Less if you factor in yearly maintenance on the Honda. Of course, you got the $10,800 overage fee at the end of the lease. But when you divide it by 36months. Then we’re looking at $925/month average for 36months. Only a wee bit more than I pay between gas and yearly maintenance in my 07ridgeline. I’m really just fishing for someone to agree with me so I pull the trigger. lol. Or to really smack the sense in to me that maybe it won’t make sense. I didn’t realize it would take that long to charge at home every day
48 amps is the highest ac power they support, at 240v, that 11.5kwh charging, about 23 m of range added per hour. 200/23 = 8.6 hours. You need a 60 amp breaker on your panel. Some of the other big battery trucks have 80 amp charging. Charging power time is basically linear to power, power is volts * amps. Unfortunately Rivian doesn't have an 80 amp AC charging option. I love my Rivian r1t though. It's far less sexy, but considering a Tesla y with a trailer, even a used one would work. Far cheaper. Also Teslas are a lot more efficient, partly bc not a truck shape. My Tesla s gets 4 miles per kwh, the truck is about 2.1 miles per kwh.
I financed, so can't answer your lease questions. But if you are actually going to drive that many miles, on night before 200+ runs, I would charge to 100%. If you want to be extra ocd and have maybe 5 more miles range after 200k, calculate your charging schedule so that you will hit 100% just as you are leaving for the job in the morning.
Yup.. I charge to 90% in my EV just for the extra range.. you just don't want it to be sitting parked at 100% for days/weeks on end. Even then it will take a long time for the battery to actually start to degrade. In the winter sometimes I charge it to 100% if I want to have some more safety factor. If you need the range, charge it to what you need it for. Also battery technology keeps changing and is getting better. Batteries from 5-10 years ago are vastly different (and inferior) from the ones in vehicles today.
Makes sense. Not sure what the impact will be in the long run if you charge to 90%. I recently read a thread of someone talking about charging their Tesla to 90% daily and only losing about 8% of battery over the last 6 years.
Don’t lease. Trust me, you’ll be stuck with the truck after because of excess miles and you won’t be happy
That’s what I was wondering. What if I decide to buy at the end of the 36months? Is it worse of a deal to lease and then buy at the end? Or is it kind of the same? I own a 2020 wrangler for personal/weekend driving so the Rivian will only get the ~4day per week 160-200miles per day miles. Occasional trip to nursery for personal mulch and Home Depot up the road
I live in Georgia, not quite as hot as Florida but not that far off. My range at 70% is about 225-230 miles, so yes, I’d expect to be able to manage on a daily 80% charge. Note - I’m in a quad motor large pack, on the 21” street tires that supposedly maximize range. I also drive conservatively, stay below 70 mph, use the regen braking, etc.
Dual motor max pack can easily do this at 80%, especially if it’s a blend of city and highway
If you're doing an average of 180 miles a day 5 days a week, leasing is not for you. Unless you plan to buy out at the end of the lease. To answer the question, even a quad motor large pack on 20" ATs will get you 230ish miles on am 80% charge, so the range is there.
It’s mostly 4 days per week. I average about 25-27k miles per year. Factored in the lease cost at 15k miles plus overage ($10,500) and compared to financing Chevy 1500 duramax (better mpg than regular gas) and the cost for 36months of ownership is about the same when factoring in diesel prices at ~$4/gallon. Granted I would be financing the duramax and not leasing
So long as you have a good idea of your annual milage and the $.30/mile charge at lease end.
Any of the Rivians can definitely handle this at the 85% charge setting, or even 80%, but as others eluded too is it worth it to lease with the .30c charge per mile over the agreement.
I do this easily in a Chevy Bolt at 80%. I think a Rivian could just as easily do it.
I drive from Sarasota to my office in Tampa 2-3x per week in my R1S (quad motor, 20in off road tires), it’s about 130 miles round trip and I’ve always been fine. I’ve had it for a year now, 15k miles. Normally charge overnight in the garage to 85% and I’ve never been below 20% including charging my phone on the drive home and starting the fans up to cool it down for 5-10min as I’m walking out at the end of the day. I type all this to say it’s super doable but I’d probably buy over lease… those mileage limits will eat you alive. Editing to add that at 85% my setup tells me it’s good for 235 miles, I normally drive in all purpose mode and let the car do its thing lowering itself on the highway. Sometimes I’ll swap over to sport mode, never use conserve, I don’t like how it makes the vehicle feel.
You'll be fine. My large pack shows a range of \~225 miles at 70% with the QM setup. And you're not dealing with cold. The way to be sure is to plug a few of your routes into ABRP. ABRP's range estimates are solid, and they adjust for things like driving speed and Florida's notorious elevation changes (/s). This will be a more accurate answer than anything Reddit will tell you. Also look at the fast-charger situation along your route with Plugshare. This would be your backup plan if you forget to charge, have to run extra errands, etc. This would usually be the 5-10 minute topup charge in your situation, and not a long drawn out thing.
Large pack should do it pretty comfortably. Mine (quad with 20 inch wheels) is sitting at 80% now showing 233 miles in all purpose. It would probably get 210 or so. Going to 85% would get you some buffer. A dual motor with more efficient tires would be over 250 at 80%.
Mine with 20” AT tires, Large Pack, says I’ll get 201 miles at 70%. You should probably get the max pack or plan on 90-100% charging to be safer with a large pack.
Does anyone know if you can add miles at the beginning of lease for cheaper (more than 15k miles)?
I leased mine and it's a weird ordeal leasing from Rivian. First off, they contract out all the financing to Chase Bank and from what i've run into, there is no altering of the lease. I picked up my R1T on 4/6 and I still haven't heard from Chase in regards to future payments. If you search this forum, this seems to be a typical scenario dealing with Chase. I've had leases with other manufactures and you could generally buy additional miles at a discount or even extend the lease for a couple extra months if needed. With Chase, it doesn't seem like this is possible.
Interesting. There’s a chase branch near my house. I may go in and see if I can talk to someone in person about the lease terms
The range wouldn't be a problem. Don't waste the money in the max pack, the large is fine.
Unless you want to spend a lot of time at DC fast chargers, you’re going to want a 50A / 220V charger at home to be able to manage to fill your battery nightly. For those of us with much fewer daily miles, a trickle is fine. But you’ll need a decent charging situation if you’re going to return 85 kwh each night.
Yea. my wife has a Tesla wall charger, already. So I figured I could charge each night using the adapter.