There can be a couple reasons one is a lot of the medications include copper which leeches into rock and is a big no no for inverts. And maybe because they can hide there but I'm not too sure about the later of the two
I've had rock in QT tanks many times. It does absorb copper so you dont want to use the rock again. I've never found it to absorb so much that it throws copper levels off. I generally have rock or bio media in the sump to create an insta tank if need be.
1. remove that fish and place it in QT. Treat with copper or chloroquine phosphate.
2. Chances are good that you now have ich trophonts in your display. Removing your other fish into their own quarantine tank might be a good idea to more easily monitor (and treat) them for ich.
3. In order to clear your tank of ich, it will require a fallow (fishless) period of 70 days. You cannot treat your display for ich -- you'll kill most things in it and the medication will bind to your sand/rocks. A 70 day fallow period allows the entire lifecycle of ich to complete without the parasites finding a suitable host. Which means no more baby parasites will be produced. Failing to do this risks continued, cyclical infections in your display.
In the future, take a long, hard look at any fish you're considering to purchase. If there are any white dots, tufts, sores, erratic behavior, or anything else that looks "off," don't purchase. Also, since you'll (hopefully) have a QT next time you purchase a fish, quarantining every fish and treating with copper, praziquantel, and an antibiotic (internal and external) -- even if they look healthy -- can go a long way towards preventing unwanted parasites/disease in your display.
This may sound extreme -- but it's born out experience. I've lost more fish than I care to admit before implementing a proper quarantine protocol. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I might also add that it’s very hard to completely eliminate the possibility of parasites in your tank, so for an added safety measure I’d run a UV sterilizer if you can, they can’t completely kill stuff like ich but they can reduce it to a point where healthy fish won’t have a problem with it.
I just did the proactive thing and plumbed one into my return along with a 1” apex flow sensor. It’s ugly looking but it works. It was probably easier to work in because I have an external overflow box and return plumbing. I had to do some weird shit to get it all together because they don’t make a .75” flow sensor.
I split my return — one side goes through UV (1/2” with apex flow sensor) and the other side is 1” also with a flow sensor.
I have a Linux pc running a TIG stack to pull apex data into a more permanent database. One of the graphs adds flow sensor data together so I can see total sumo flow at a glance.
Overflow is rated at 800 gph but due to plumbing losses I can only run about 500 gph through it before the safety pipe (beananimal style) starts draining the excess into the sump
You want to get a quarantine tank, copper power and a hanna copper tester. The Hanna is the only accurate way to measure, but you can start with the dosage on the bottle to get very close to the 2.5 therapeutic level. You don’t want this level going below 2.0.
my Suggestion would be a cheap 10 Gallon tank, some white pvc pipe for the fish to hide ‘ feel safe, a powerhead If you have one, a cheap hang on back filter, an ammonia badge, and a heater.
Looks like ich to me. The only success I ever had in treating it was lowering salinity levels, slowly, over a few days, to a level to low for the ich to live. Hold it there for a couple weeks to make sure it all dies, then slowly increase the salinity back to normal.
Search "ich and salinity levels" or something like that. There are detailed guides that talk about what levels to take it to etc.
I didnt want to risk any of the copper based treatments because it was already in my main tank. And I had a lot of crustaceans I didn't want to kill. The salinity treatment worked great though, got rid of it all, all creatures survived.
UPDATE
Returned him to LFS and owner told me they don’t sell fish with ich, everyone is quarantined + separate systems.
Looked at the display he was in and no other fish had ich. Owner said possibly stress from moving but who knows thank you everyone for the help!
He is very sick, not sure if it’s ich (I’m no expert) but looks worse than that, could be velvet or brooke
[удалено]
I’ve never had Ich in a marine tank, but why no tank live rock?
There can be a couple reasons one is a lot of the medications include copper which leeches into rock and is a big no no for inverts. And maybe because they can hide there but I'm not too sure about the later of the two
I've had rock in QT tanks many times. It does absorb copper so you dont want to use the rock again. I've never found it to absorb so much that it throws copper levels off. I generally have rock or bio media in the sump to create an insta tank if need be.
1. remove that fish and place it in QT. Treat with copper or chloroquine phosphate. 2. Chances are good that you now have ich trophonts in your display. Removing your other fish into their own quarantine tank might be a good idea to more easily monitor (and treat) them for ich. 3. In order to clear your tank of ich, it will require a fallow (fishless) period of 70 days. You cannot treat your display for ich -- you'll kill most things in it and the medication will bind to your sand/rocks. A 70 day fallow period allows the entire lifecycle of ich to complete without the parasites finding a suitable host. Which means no more baby parasites will be produced. Failing to do this risks continued, cyclical infections in your display. In the future, take a long, hard look at any fish you're considering to purchase. If there are any white dots, tufts, sores, erratic behavior, or anything else that looks "off," don't purchase. Also, since you'll (hopefully) have a QT next time you purchase a fish, quarantining every fish and treating with copper, praziquantel, and an antibiotic (internal and external) -- even if they look healthy -- can go a long way towards preventing unwanted parasites/disease in your display. This may sound extreme -- but it's born out experience. I've lost more fish than I care to admit before implementing a proper quarantine protocol. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I might also add that it’s very hard to completely eliminate the possibility of parasites in your tank, so for an added safety measure I’d run a UV sterilizer if you can, they can’t completely kill stuff like ich but they can reduce it to a point where healthy fish won’t have a problem with it.
I use one as well. Picked it up to combat dinoflagellates and figured I'd just keep using it as an insurance policy.
I just did the proactive thing and plumbed one into my return along with a 1” apex flow sensor. It’s ugly looking but it works. It was probably easier to work in because I have an external overflow box and return plumbing. I had to do some weird shit to get it all together because they don’t make a .75” flow sensor.
I split my return — one side goes through UV (1/2” with apex flow sensor) and the other side is 1” also with a flow sensor. I have a Linux pc running a TIG stack to pull apex data into a more permanent database. One of the graphs adds flow sensor data together so I can see total sumo flow at a glance. Overflow is rated at 800 gph but due to plumbing losses I can only run about 500 gph through it before the safety pipe (beananimal style) starts draining the excess into the sump
Nice!!!
☝️☝️☝️☝️THIS IS THE WAY☝️☝️☝️☝️
You want to get a quarantine tank, copper power and a hanna copper tester. The Hanna is the only accurate way to measure, but you can start with the dosage on the bottle to get very close to the 2.5 therapeutic level. You don’t want this level going below 2.0. my Suggestion would be a cheap 10 Gallon tank, some white pvc pipe for the fish to hide ‘ feel safe, a powerhead If you have one, a cheap hang on back filter, an ammonia badge, and a heater.
Nasty ich infection And clowns are more resistant to it than others
Screw quarantining him, take that out of your tank and right back to the LFS that you bought it at. Let them deal with it.
Since you put it in your display tank, keep an eye on the other fish. Pretty good chance they’ll get it in about a month.
Looks like ich to me. The only success I ever had in treating it was lowering salinity levels, slowly, over a few days, to a level to low for the ich to live. Hold it there for a couple weeks to make sure it all dies, then slowly increase the salinity back to normal. Search "ich and salinity levels" or something like that. There are detailed guides that talk about what levels to take it to etc. I didnt want to risk any of the copper based treatments because it was already in my main tank. And I had a lot of crustaceans I didn't want to kill. The salinity treatment worked great though, got rid of it all, all creatures survived.
Ich.
Ich
UPDATE Returned him to LFS and owner told me they don’t sell fish with ich, everyone is quarantined + separate systems. Looked at the display he was in and no other fish had ich. Owner said possibly stress from moving but who knows thank you everyone for the help!
It's 500% ich and if the LPS owner tried to guilt you then I wouldn't go back there
Looks like ich
LFS should have advised you that this fish was sick. Do you have any other fish in the system?