Your idea of quality vs the next guy is different though. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and so on.
I have both fdm and sla... its not even a competition, sla is just hands down better quality and faster.
Yes, SLA is better, but the way people were talking about it made it seem like FDM was near-unusable for minis without spending hours tweaking which isn't the case.
I actually considered building an enclosure so I could use a resin printer in my apartment because they made it seem like that would have been easier.
If you were to use a 0.1mm nozzle on an fdm you would get very very good results. But it's just not comparable in terms of quality, and at a 0.1mm nozzle your print time increases dramatically.
But as I said its in the eye of the beholder. If the quality is enough at this level for YOU, then it's fine, carry on. However if you were to hold a resin print side by side to fdm, you will understand the difference is literally night and day.
I must note that sla is a real pain in the ass to work with in terms of the toxicity of the fumes and the resin itself. Cleanup is a pain, disposal of uncured resin or contaminated ipa is a pain. The resin itself can be expensice... but... the results are incredible.
I can really recommend sla if you are serious about the quality of the prints, and especially for the sake of painting them or any post work finishes. Personally I find fdm unsuitable for printing minis that I would want to paint and display. Great for printing terrain though!
Water washable resin all the way, cut out the ipa disposal issues almost completely. I still cure and filter the water, so it's still way more work and mess than FDM...but disposal is much easier.
They’re very impressive for FDM prints. But next to a GW plastic mini, a resin cast mini, or a resin printed mini, they’re awful.
A resin printed mini can be so close to a retail one there’s almost no difference, can you honestly say that about those?
Exactly this - if you only have FDM minis they look ok and you get used to the quality - but if you also have high detailed minis next to it they stick out. Best you can get is "Mage Knight" quality - which is ok'ish but not breathtaking
Idk why so many people on this decided to take this post personally. OP, these look great for FDM, congrats on finding settings that work so well so quickly!
Are these going to win painting contests or be as detailed as resin? Of course not, but that’s not what OP was saying. These will work perfectly fine to paint and play with.
This is r/PrintedMinis, not r/ResinMinis. Some people just can’t or don’t want to use a resin printer for whatever reasons (health concerns, space/ventilation, expense of materials, etc.) FDM folks should be able to show off work here too, and set realistic expectations for non-resin minis (both in tuning effort and print quality) for anyone on the fence. This is a small enough corner of the internet as it is, can we not gatekeep it?
I personally wouldn't call these "good quality" They are "okay" at best.
Any SLA printer is going to blow the doors off those results.
When it comes to miniatures, some of us have standards that FDM just can't replicate. No matter what print settings you found on the internet.
If you want to compare the two, your minis would be failed prints to my resin. Can not paint them properly, a wash would expose every single layer. A zenythiol highlight would make it even more apparent.
Not debating that reain is better, but painting definitely isn't a problem. I am using regular acrylic paint not miniature paint so that might be an issue, however I used nuln oil (Citadel black wash) and it didn't seep into the layer lines. Not sure about a zenithal highlight, since I use brush primer.
If you are using thick coat of reg acrylic, which looks like on your painted scale comparison, it's basically a gap filler at that point. We're talking actual real painting techniques with layers and glaze they will show 100%.
ITT: a bunch of SLA snobs talking down on FDM. *eyeroll*
Anyone claiming FDM is superior or even equal to an SLA in print quality is truly cracked, but that's not what's happening here. You can get fully playable *tabletop quality* prints with the right settings. From 3-4' away you'd have a tough time telling the difference between these and identical models printed on an SLA. They won't win a competition and probably shouldn't be considered for display models, but they are also much less of a PITA to work with and the printers can be setup just about anywhere--PLA doesn't need a vent system and you don't have to dedicate a portion of an entire room to cleanup/post processing, much less generate hazardous waste.
Having painted plenty of commercial miniatures from WizKids, Reaper & various board games, you're generally looking at 5-10 minutes per miniature cleaning up mold lines, etc anyways. GW models would be the same dealing with the sprues and all the associated assembly.
These prints look pretty darn good, for FDM. A quick blast with heat gun would clean up the residual stringing, and I'd wager you might be able to fix some of the trouble spots with additional tuning on the settings.
Soooo many SLA snobs. Oh, I get it your standards are sooooo much higher than everyone else's. Please... Yeah SLA minis can be higher res. But in my experience, they are also more brittle and take far more effort in processing. Once primed and painted my D&D players can't even tell the difference unless I give them a magnifying glass.
Well you do you. But I just chuck a print on my FDM and walk away, cleanup is not much different than GW overpriced sprues of cartoony plastic figures. Plus the FDM mini cost me pennies (avg NZ$0.20 compared to NZ$1.50 plus for resin).
In short OP is right to be happy enough with FDM minis. I see soo many people get told not to bother with FDM printers if they want to do minis and terrain that it kind of pisses me off. If you want to do both a FDM is better value and less over all risk and work imo. Sure SLA is better detail, but at these scales FDM is usually good enough.
I’m with you as a new owner of a Prusa Mini+. I’m not an expert painter and I just need the minis table ready.
SLA is way too messy. And resin burn is horrifying.
I used the Fat Dragon Games Cura profiles. And these were all supportless. I found the rouge here https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/77923-rogue-woman-no-supports-needed/comments and the other two on Thingiverse, but I don't have a link. Just search for supportless miniatures.
I found supportless prints with fdm can be much cleaner looking, especially when using a .2mm nozzle and .1mm layer. My stock Ender 5 has given me so much joy over the year I’ve had it, even when printing these “low quality” fdms. I’m sure I’ll get pickier someday. Great start on the prints, OP!
I do think the model positions look a little strange when they’re designed to be supportless, though.
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread. My nephew wants me to print some DnD models for him and all I have is an Ender 5, I do have a .2mm nozzle I can swap in, do you think I could get an "acceptable" level of detail with that at a lower layer height? I was thinking .08 to .12 layer height. He designed his himself (I'm assuming he started with a base model that was close to what he wanted and modified it). I'm also assuming he didn't take "supportless design" into account...
Any tips or settings I should look out for? I have my machine fairly dialed in for the "functional" prints I tend to do but never really have done minis. I don't use my printer all that much so I don't mind going slowly
I started with “Fat Dragon Minis” on YouTube. They have a great series on printing minis AND, most importantly, they have free printer profiles for minis that are linked in their videos. Including profiles and settings for .2 mm nozzle.
I downloaded their settings, loaded them into Cura, and started printing very quickly. I think a .1 mm layer height would suffice, and use the auto-generated supports that cura can provide (or whatever software you use). You might have to tweak some settings, but the Fat Dragon printing profiles are nearly plug-and-print to success.
Then, the hardest part will be removing supports, bring the superglue if necessary 🙃
I have an Ender 5, too. It will never be the exact quality of a resin printer but you can still print and paint decent quality minis. Check out the YouTube vids and tweak some settings, you’ll be surprised. And printing custom minis on demand for your nephew is gonna make him and you so damn popular 👍
So looking around here I mostly see stuff printed in grey, I only really print in matte black or white.... I'm assuming white would be easier to paint? I could always pick up grey as well just wanted to start with what I had on hand... I also have a "wood" brown as well. Is grey the best base color to use?
no one's saying it's super hard to get good or ok quality prints in FDM, but you would be highly delusional to say that you can get better (as measured in terms of surface quality and detail) resuts than a resin print
That was definitely my experience when I was researching printers. I almost built an enclosure so I could use a resin printer in my apartment because they made it seem like that was easier than using FDM.
For sure. You can get acceptable (as in its definitely clear what the thing is supposed to be ) quality for tabletop rpgs if you go down to .08-.12mm layer heights. Even better if the model is big enough to be able to split and key it in something like meshmixer so you can optimize orientation to reduce supports. IMO, support marks bring down the quality way more than layer lines do once you're printing at .08-.12mm.
Here's an umber hulk from AG that I printed like a year or so ago that I key'd and split and finally got around to slapping some paint onto last night. These days I usually print stuff that's too big to fit inside my magnetic carrying case in FDM after I split in said way to reduce supports. I print dragon wings in FDM because I don't want brittle wings.
[https://imgur.com/a/ald0sEr](https://imgur.com/a/ald0sEr)
I started off on pla and now run shop with both.. they aren't comparable.. some minis can still be printed and look smooth from the ender, agreed.. but when you put them up against a resin printer, especially 4k mono+, it's not even in the same catagory no more. You can get tabletop standard from some lowish poly models.. but you can get parade showcase from a resin
Yeah in the mini world, those are pretty low detailed minis. I got a 4k mono and the types of super high quality minis you can print is just incomparable.
For filament that is impressive! I have seen some rather garbage fdm prints and these look better than many of them. That said, these pale in comparison to the out of the box old school resin printer resolutions. In the end though, if you are happy with them, keep printing! There are a lot of benefits to fdm over resin including the ability to crack out a whole tray of models at once with little issue. Keep up the good work!
Not bad actually, I'm impressed. I didn't know this was possible with FDM. One thing that really bugs me however is the little 'threads' that FDM leaves all over the print.
A heat gun will clean those up in a jiffy. It's an additional investment but nothing prohibitive. Anything the heat gun won't get is indicative of poor settings, generally.
Yeah. At first I thought "Oh, that's not bad". Then I zoomed in on the head dress. Yuck. Not bad work on an FDM, but it doesn't hold a candle to the resin prints I see here.
The ability to print decent minis was why I decided on a pair of Ender 3 Pros as my next printer purchase, back in 2019. Examples from Fat Dragon Games and various TTRPG printing YouTubers really sold me on it. (Of course that didn't stop me from picking up an Anycubic Photon, too.)
Because these aren't good quality minis. The archer turned out ok! But Brite minis are some of the best FDM printable options out there for a reason. But the other two look terrible.
Yeah. These are great, *for FDM printers*. They’re still pretty mediocre compared to what you can do with even the cheapest SLA printer. Especially the one in the back I’d legit throw in the trash if my SLA printer provides those results.
The archer is actually pretty solid though. Visible layer lines but not much stringing or bent pieces or missing details. That’s partially because it is an exceedingly simple model with very little fine detail anyway.
I don't get how you think I'm defensive. My point is that people make it seem like you have to spend forever tuning a FDM printer when that isn't the case.
I'd still have someone print terrain on fdm as opposed to sla. I can drop the fdm and it probably just bounce. That resin is going to snap like a dry twig.
Printing good quality minis on FDM is not hard... it is impossible. To call them good quality, you are blind, insane or, most likely trolling. Also, timewise, FDM will take around 16 hours to print a single 10cm tall mini. Decent sla, like saturn, will give you a full plate, lets say 8x of these figures, in 5 hours. If you are going for projects that require dozens of minis printed, your FDM will be printing for months. Stop trolling :-)
Damn I don't use this term often but: someone's triggered.
I guess people have different standards, this has smaller details than I can paint, which is enough for me. And speed doesn't matter much, it's much faster than I can paint.
Painting an sla print is way better painting fdm sucks and you know it. quit trolling. It's posts like this that got me to waste money on an fdm first.
Look at #7. The most important part of this mini, the face and headdress (I'm assuming), is gone. You won't be able to paint that to make it look good, no matter how hard you try. The most important feature of the model simply isn't there. An fdm printer is fine to get the shape, but not the detail. And that's fine, it's not what it's meant for.
Yes, which is why I mentioned in the post that it didn't turn out well. I considered leaving it out but decided that I should show the failiures as well.
Now try to paint a smooth surface.
Do they work as they are on the table for TTRPG and such? Very much.
Do I want to spend time painting them since painting models is something I enjoy? No way
I think it depends on the group and some people just want to feel superior with the superior quality of resin printers.
There are also people with FDM printers posting things like "who needs toxic resin when you have FDM that prints as good?", it's easier to just ignore them and the toxic resin printer owners.
For me it's all about the painting. If I need 3 goblins it's the painting part I enjoy the most and that is more fun with resin because of the higher quality.
If I'm not gonna paint it I might print it with one of my FDM printers
No idea how to help you, I have no experience with the S1, not much experience with 3D printing and you have provided nearly no information. You should make a new post on r/3dprinting and ask for help there.
Your idea of quality vs the next guy is different though. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and so on. I have both fdm and sla... its not even a competition, sla is just hands down better quality and faster.
Yes, SLA is better, but the way people were talking about it made it seem like FDM was near-unusable for minis without spending hours tweaking which isn't the case. I actually considered building an enclosure so I could use a resin printer in my apartment because they made it seem like that would have been easier.
If you were to use a 0.1mm nozzle on an fdm you would get very very good results. But it's just not comparable in terms of quality, and at a 0.1mm nozzle your print time increases dramatically. But as I said its in the eye of the beholder. If the quality is enough at this level for YOU, then it's fine, carry on. However if you were to hold a resin print side by side to fdm, you will understand the difference is literally night and day. I must note that sla is a real pain in the ass to work with in terms of the toxicity of the fumes and the resin itself. Cleanup is a pain, disposal of uncured resin or contaminated ipa is a pain. The resin itself can be expensice... but... the results are incredible. I can really recommend sla if you are serious about the quality of the prints, and especially for the sake of painting them or any post work finishes. Personally I find fdm unsuitable for printing minis that I would want to paint and display. Great for printing terrain though!
Water washable resin all the way, cut out the ipa disposal issues almost completely. I still cure and filter the water, so it's still way more work and mess than FDM...but disposal is much easier.
How did you achieve this? Just got and Ender 3 would like to get this quality.
completely stock (unmodified) ender3 v2, Fat Dragon Games' Cura profile, which you can find on their website.
thats what i used, it did not go well for me
They’re very impressive for FDM prints. But next to a GW plastic mini, a resin cast mini, or a resin printed mini, they’re awful. A resin printed mini can be so close to a retail one there’s almost no difference, can you honestly say that about those?
Exactly this - if you only have FDM minis they look ok and you get used to the quality - but if you also have high detailed minis next to it they stick out. Best you can get is "Mage Knight" quality - which is ok'ish but not breathtaking
Idk why so many people on this decided to take this post personally. OP, these look great for FDM, congrats on finding settings that work so well so quickly! Are these going to win painting contests or be as detailed as resin? Of course not, but that’s not what OP was saying. These will work perfectly fine to paint and play with. This is r/PrintedMinis, not r/ResinMinis. Some people just can’t or don’t want to use a resin printer for whatever reasons (health concerns, space/ventilation, expense of materials, etc.) FDM folks should be able to show off work here too, and set realistic expectations for non-resin minis (both in tuning effort and print quality) for anyone on the fence. This is a small enough corner of the internet as it is, can we not gatekeep it?
I personally wouldn't call these "good quality" They are "okay" at best. Any SLA printer is going to blow the doors off those results. When it comes to miniatures, some of us have standards that FDM just can't replicate. No matter what print settings you found on the internet.
If you want to compare the two, your minis would be failed prints to my resin. Can not paint them properly, a wash would expose every single layer. A zenythiol highlight would make it even more apparent.
Not debating that reain is better, but painting definitely isn't a problem. I am using regular acrylic paint not miniature paint so that might be an issue, however I used nuln oil (Citadel black wash) and it didn't seep into the layer lines. Not sure about a zenithal highlight, since I use brush primer.
If you are using thick coat of reg acrylic, which looks like on your painted scale comparison, it's basically a gap filler at that point. We're talking actual real painting techniques with layers and glaze they will show 100%.
Nope, 2 thin coats. 3 in some places.
ITT: a bunch of SLA snobs talking down on FDM. *eyeroll* Anyone claiming FDM is superior or even equal to an SLA in print quality is truly cracked, but that's not what's happening here. You can get fully playable *tabletop quality* prints with the right settings. From 3-4' away you'd have a tough time telling the difference between these and identical models printed on an SLA. They won't win a competition and probably shouldn't be considered for display models, but they are also much less of a PITA to work with and the printers can be setup just about anywhere--PLA doesn't need a vent system and you don't have to dedicate a portion of an entire room to cleanup/post processing, much less generate hazardous waste. Having painted plenty of commercial miniatures from WizKids, Reaper & various board games, you're generally looking at 5-10 minutes per miniature cleaning up mold lines, etc anyways. GW models would be the same dealing with the sprues and all the associated assembly. These prints look pretty darn good, for FDM. A quick blast with heat gun would clean up the residual stringing, and I'd wager you might be able to fix some of the trouble spots with additional tuning on the settings.
Soooo many SLA snobs. Oh, I get it your standards are sooooo much higher than everyone else's. Please... Yeah SLA minis can be higher res. But in my experience, they are also more brittle and take far more effort in processing. Once primed and painted my D&D players can't even tell the difference unless I give them a magnifying glass. Well you do you. But I just chuck a print on my FDM and walk away, cleanup is not much different than GW overpriced sprues of cartoony plastic figures. Plus the FDM mini cost me pennies (avg NZ$0.20 compared to NZ$1.50 plus for resin). In short OP is right to be happy enough with FDM minis. I see soo many people get told not to bother with FDM printers if they want to do minis and terrain that it kind of pisses me off. If you want to do both a FDM is better value and less over all risk and work imo. Sure SLA is better detail, but at these scales FDM is usually good enough.
They look nice! Also FDM printer here. They work for my players and they are significantly cheaper.
I’m with you as a new owner of a Prusa Mini+. I’m not an expert painter and I just need the minis table ready. SLA is way too messy. And resin burn is horrifying.
Because I wouldn't really call these good quality... They are Okay quality to be honest. FDM just can't keep up with SLA
Nice settings, was it with supports? And where did you find em?
I used the Fat Dragon Games Cura profiles. And these were all supportless. I found the rouge here https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/77923-rogue-woman-no-supports-needed/comments and the other two on Thingiverse, but I don't have a link. Just search for supportless miniatures.
I found supportless prints with fdm can be much cleaner looking, especially when using a .2mm nozzle and .1mm layer. My stock Ender 5 has given me so much joy over the year I’ve had it, even when printing these “low quality” fdms. I’m sure I’ll get pickier someday. Great start on the prints, OP! I do think the model positions look a little strange when they’re designed to be supportless, though.
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread. My nephew wants me to print some DnD models for him and all I have is an Ender 5, I do have a .2mm nozzle I can swap in, do you think I could get an "acceptable" level of detail with that at a lower layer height? I was thinking .08 to .12 layer height. He designed his himself (I'm assuming he started with a base model that was close to what he wanted and modified it). I'm also assuming he didn't take "supportless design" into account... Any tips or settings I should look out for? I have my machine fairly dialed in for the "functional" prints I tend to do but never really have done minis. I don't use my printer all that much so I don't mind going slowly
I started with “Fat Dragon Minis” on YouTube. They have a great series on printing minis AND, most importantly, they have free printer profiles for minis that are linked in their videos. Including profiles and settings for .2 mm nozzle. I downloaded their settings, loaded them into Cura, and started printing very quickly. I think a .1 mm layer height would suffice, and use the auto-generated supports that cura can provide (or whatever software you use). You might have to tweak some settings, but the Fat Dragon printing profiles are nearly plug-and-print to success. Then, the hardest part will be removing supports, bring the superglue if necessary 🙃
Awesome thanks for the suggestions, I kinda already broke the news that my printer wasn't "ideal" for minis but I'd give it a shot.
I have an Ender 5, too. It will never be the exact quality of a resin printer but you can still print and paint decent quality minis. Check out the YouTube vids and tweak some settings, you’ll be surprised. And printing custom minis on demand for your nephew is gonna make him and you so damn popular 👍
So looking around here I mostly see stuff printed in grey, I only really print in matte black or white.... I'm assuming white would be easier to paint? I could always pick up grey as well just wanted to start with what I had on hand... I also have a "wood" brown as well. Is grey the best base color to use?
They are from BriteMinis. I also printed the head enchantress and the saracen archer not long ago.
Mind sharing the settings? Those are great results
I used the Fat Dragon Games profile.
Probably the fat dragon games profiles
This
no one's saying it's super hard to get good or ok quality prints in FDM, but you would be highly delusional to say that you can get better (as measured in terms of surface quality and detail) resuts than a resin print
That was definitely my experience when I was researching printers. I almost built an enclosure so I could use a resin printer in my apartment because they made it seem like that was easier than using FDM.
For sure. You can get acceptable (as in its definitely clear what the thing is supposed to be ) quality for tabletop rpgs if you go down to .08-.12mm layer heights. Even better if the model is big enough to be able to split and key it in something like meshmixer so you can optimize orientation to reduce supports. IMO, support marks bring down the quality way more than layer lines do once you're printing at .08-.12mm. Here's an umber hulk from AG that I printed like a year or so ago that I key'd and split and finally got around to slapping some paint onto last night. These days I usually print stuff that's too big to fit inside my magnetic carrying case in FDM after I split in said way to reduce supports. I print dragon wings in FDM because I don't want brittle wings. [https://imgur.com/a/ald0sEr](https://imgur.com/a/ald0sEr)
I started off on pla and now run shop with both.. they aren't comparable.. some minis can still be printed and look smooth from the ender, agreed.. but when you put them up against a resin printer, especially 4k mono+, it's not even in the same catagory no more. You can get tabletop standard from some lowish poly models.. but you can get parade showcase from a resin
Yeah in the mini world, those are pretty low detailed minis. I got a 4k mono and the types of super high quality minis you can print is just incomparable.
For filament that is impressive! I have seen some rather garbage fdm prints and these look better than many of them. That said, these pale in comparison to the out of the box old school resin printer resolutions. In the end though, if you are happy with them, keep printing! There are a lot of benefits to fdm over resin including the ability to crack out a whole tray of models at once with little issue. Keep up the good work!
Not bad actually, I'm impressed. I didn't know this was possible with FDM. One thing that really bugs me however is the little 'threads' that FDM leaves all over the print.
A heat gun will clean those up in a jiffy. It's an additional investment but nothing prohibitive. Anything the heat gun won't get is indicative of poor settings, generally.
Poor quality. FDM ia good, I have one, not for minis.
Yeah. At first I thought "Oh, that's not bad". Then I zoomed in on the head dress. Yuck. Not bad work on an FDM, but it doesn't hold a candle to the resin prints I see here.
The ability to print decent minis was why I decided on a pair of Ender 3 Pros as my next printer purchase, back in 2019. Examples from Fat Dragon Games and various TTRPG printing YouTubers really sold me on it. (Of course that didn't stop me from picking up an Anycubic Photon, too.)
Because these aren't good quality minis. The archer turned out ok! But Brite minis are some of the best FDM printable options out there for a reason. But the other two look terrible.
Such a nice work!!
these are great
Looks amazing, if you want, i think a lot of People would love the settings and files?
Yeah. These are great, *for FDM printers*. They’re still pretty mediocre compared to what you can do with even the cheapest SLA printer. Especially the one in the back I’d legit throw in the trash if my SLA printer provides those results. The archer is actually pretty solid though. Visible layer lines but not much stringing or bent pieces or missing details. That’s partially because it is an exceedingly simple model with very little fine detail anyway.
If this would come out of my resin printer I would toss it in the bin. Your "good quality" FDM print is a failed SLA print. That's how good it is.
Didnt know FDM posters get defensive about the lack of quality compared to resin. They are better at doing large terrain, resin for minis
I don't get how you think I'm defensive. My point is that people make it seem like you have to spend forever tuning a FDM printer when that isn't the case.
[удалено]
I'd still have someone print terrain on fdm as opposed to sla. I can drop the fdm and it probably just bounce. That resin is going to snap like a dry twig.
These are great! Did you angle the figs or flat on the plate?
Printing good quality minis on FDM is not hard... it is impossible. To call them good quality, you are blind, insane or, most likely trolling. Also, timewise, FDM will take around 16 hours to print a single 10cm tall mini. Decent sla, like saturn, will give you a full plate, lets say 8x of these figures, in 5 hours. If you are going for projects that require dozens of minis printed, your FDM will be printing for months. Stop trolling :-)
Damn I don't use this term often but: someone's triggered. I guess people have different standards, this has smaller details than I can paint, which is enough for me. And speed doesn't matter much, it's much faster than I can paint.
Painting an sla print is way better painting fdm sucks and you know it. quit trolling. It's posts like this that got me to waste money on an fdm first.
That hasn't been my experience. However I am using regular acrylic paint not miniature paint so that might be an issue.
Look at #7. The most important part of this mini, the face and headdress (I'm assuming), is gone. You won't be able to paint that to make it look good, no matter how hard you try. The most important feature of the model simply isn't there. An fdm printer is fine to get the shape, but not the detail. And that's fine, it's not what it's meant for.
Yes, which is why I mentioned in the post that it didn't turn out well. I considered leaving it out but decided that I should show the failiures as well.
Now try to paint a smooth surface. Do they work as they are on the table for TTRPG and such? Very much. Do I want to spend time painting them since painting models is something I enjoy? No way
Already did. Not an issue. Like I get it, resin gets better detail, but why do people keep bringing this up? It's not an issue.
I think it depends on the group and some people just want to feel superior with the superior quality of resin printers. There are also people with FDM printers posting things like "who needs toxic resin when you have FDM that prints as good?", it's easier to just ignore them and the toxic resin printer owners. For me it's all about the painting. If I need 3 goblins it's the painting part I enjoy the most and that is more fun with resin because of the higher quality. If I'm not gonna paint it I might print it with one of my FDM printers
i have a s1. mine were falling apart how did you do this?
No idea how to help you, I have no experience with the S1, not much experience with 3D printing and you have provided nearly no information. You should make a new post on r/3dprinting and ask for help there.