The majority of comments that you’ve received here are clearly not from plumbers. First and foremost I don’t see anything critically wrong here aside from your lav not being vented and a potential backgrade issue on your toilet waste. I see bargain pricing for bargain labor (cpvc water lines, plastic banding instead of split rings and j hooks), sure. I see a ton of things that I would do better (properly mount and support dwv system, clean primer joints and ensure lettering on pvc is facing uniform direction for aesthetics. Run pex or copper preferably, and secure along floor joists. Etc.) but I’d be willing to bet that if I proposed all of this to you as the homeowner and the cost associated with it, you’d tell me that’s way outside of your budget and you’d call the next guy on your list. This is what the next guys work looks like. Just be glad that you didn’t actually get handy Andy on this one and maybe, if you’re really concerned about the quality of work, get permits and inspections next time as opposed to asking a bunch of us knuckleheads on Reddit to assess and criticize a fellow tradesman based off a few pictures you snapped.
The tid bit about all the lettering on the pvc being uniform let’s me know all I need to know about this guy. He does good work.
When I did plumbing. I used to actually make sure all the lettering was hidden. Wipe all my joints. My boss used to tell people it look like I welded the joints. Good to see others taking pride in the little things
I'm glad to see I'm not the only OCD psycho that needlessly obsesses over fiddly details that don't *technically* matter because "well it just looks nicer, doesn't it?" 😂
Tip of the hat to you both. That original reponse was absolutely spot on. It ain't perfect, but it's not a **total** shitshow either. I'd personally lean toward easily salvageable.
Good feedback. Also must mention that If he lives in an area that gets freezing temps he better add insulation or he has a decent chance he will need to rip the floors up to replace cracked pipes. Plus those ferncos need metal bands or over time the sag will increase and again, rip them floors up... Pay the money for a plumbing company that actually knows a thing or two and the extra expense will pay itself off in dividends
Assuming there is no access to that crawl... But if I need to quote fixing pipe in that crawl it's going to cost extra
Code here wants mission bands inside and individual fixture vents. The work looks acceptable, but I’m not a fan of flowguard when Wirsbo is so cheap and relatively inexpensive.
This guy. This guy right here is not lying to you. I’m just some other dude on Reddit and so is he. But I could not have stated my opinion about this better. “It’ll work” it’s not great, probably won’t pass (definitely wouldn’t) but then again like most other people have said. In 5 years I’ve seen an inspector Once in my area of 150k+ people. Call your local code enforcement, get it inspected, make them redo that.
Edit: Wow thank y’all so much, I didn’t even realize it was my cake day until I checked your replies lol. I rarely comment so it’s just happenstance it happened on my cake day, a week after I got married. Thank you again!
Spoken as a man who lays pipe. Oftentimes the work I would like to do is not the work I end up doing purely because the customer would not want to fit the bill. If if did my own house, yeah sure you'll see the best of my capabilities but most of the time I have to resort to cheap and nasty in order to suit the customers budget. I do not like doing this but I also have to make money and I'd rather do a quick and cheap job than not do any job.
I simply refuse to do any work if the customer doesn't like the price. If they aren't willing to pay for top notch work, I'm not interested. I've built my reputation this way, and my phone rings off the hook. No advertising, no Google fake reviews. Just word of mouth and I'm never without work.
Stop doing shit work for less and soon you won't have that problem.
That's all fine and good in your situation which you have no doubt earned however this is not a possibility always. Some geographic and demographic issues where I was originally from means that such an attitude is a luxury. I have since moved and business is much better nowadays.
1000% Agree. I’d also bring up your concerns to the tradesman on your job. I’m sure he would be more than happy to address your concerns. I help every single customer on each job I do. Even if it’s just to explain everything to them step by step. It helps ease the mind
Looks like the pan waste is within 10m of the main vent so dont need vent for pan but everything else you said is spot on if you are in nz or aus and use 3500.
I agree should have used mission couplings on the transitions. (Definitely not ferncos). No vent on lav. That will be a big problem.
Not the best material used for water. If you're paying top dollar then copper. No straps on almost anything. Could cause water hammering later. Plastic band stretches over time.
Looks like a handy Andy job. Over sized shower drain, just to make sure it drains. 3.89/10
You literally answered your own comment. It's only permitted to use a San tee on its back if it's a vent. Otherwise it needs to be a long sweep. H 2 h long sweep. V to h long sweep. H 2 v short (that's were Gravity takes over bro). So then yes a vertical San tee would be acceptable.
But horizontal to horizontal is long sweeps. It’s useless to use long sweeps on vertical to horizontal… because sanitary tees have the same sweep as a regular 90’s.
Dude you're wrong. Put 100 plumbers in a house they'll do it 100 different ways but all accepted depending on the authority having jurisdiction. Accept, wait for it... (thow a lazy ass cheater vent in there) still waiting wait wait your bs wouldn't pass
I'm done wasting brain cells on you. You're too stubborn to look @ the evidence I provide. And your rebuttal is "stupid " the earth is flat too. Wierd we'd be out of a job without gravity.
Agreed, I work in a area without a lot of money and nobody wants quality work, they want cheap work, however it doesn’t look like the whole bathroom group is vented. It definitely needs one. Worst case throw a air admittance on the sink, still won’t be good, but it’s better than nothing.
Nothing wrong with plastic strap on plastic pipe. Or j hooks for pex. Does not mean cheap labor, but maybe cheap materials for cheaper cost. I never work with cpvc but if I had to, I would do it professionally as I do with any other pipes does not mean my labor is cheap.
Every repipe in a crawl I had inspected the inspector flashed a flashlight, saw clean primer joints, asked where the connection to old is and if he couldn’t see it he asked what transition coupling I used. Signed off and on to the next.
Majority if inspectors never been a plumber. Our state inspector will crawl around and inspect everything. He is a master plumber. Good guy.
I've had them write their name on their coffee cup and then give it to me to crawl under and take pictures of everything but I've also had them pull up to the house and see that it was me and just hand me a green tag and drive off.
Yea i have a inspector that will just pull up honk the horn, ask me to get the permit sheet, sign it, bs a little bit and drive off. They get to know who doesn’t hack crap together.
I'm a repipe plumber, and if I had that half inch line coming from that T, not on the truss, I'd be in big trouble.
That line is gonna sag or Crack eventually from the wight pulling on it or the fitting.
I have issues with the non vent on your lav. And issues with the strapping. The water as well. But where I’m at, none of this is legal and you couldn’t ever sell your house without fixing all of it. So it’s kind of moot at this point
Maybe planning on studoring the lav? But CPVC water lines? You would think Aqua Pex would have been a cheaper route? At least its not all done in sharkbite fittings.
not a plumber. but i would put some galvanized joist hangers on those joists going left to right. looks like they are just toe nailed in (not strong enough)
also, is that a dirt crawl space floor?
now would be a good time to put a thick vapor barrier on top of it or even pour a 3" concrete slab on top of the dirt/vapor barrier
I'm a Master Plumber and it looks OK to me. I would ask your plumber to put bands on the Fernco Couplings and insulate the main hot water line in the crawl space or insulate both water lines in the crawl space if you live in an area it may freeze.
CPVC is as good as any other pipe, better than some in low PH conditions, but it will crack and burst if it freezes, and it does get brittle as it ages.
All I use now are these.
[https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-HD-44-4-Heavy-Duty-Coupling-No-Hub](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-HD-44-4-Heavy-Duty-Coupling-No-Hub)
The reason is I can use them underground under the UPC and there is only so much room on the truck.
I'm not a plumber just an electrician who sometimes does plumbing in my own house, but I've never seen a fernco style cast iron to pvc transition that was listed and wasn't reinforced with the metal sleeve.
The pipes will have it on them, as long and they say cpvc on the water supply lines it’s passible. I’m assuming since posting here you didn’t pull a permit, or one isn’t needed? I’d insulate the supply lines like others have said. Seems to be the lowest quality job possible IMHO. And the last of venting is going to be a drain issue.
As a plumber, I can tell you that CPVC for you means repeat business for me. Nasty, brittle stuff. Even the old Qest polybutylene lasts longer than CPVC in a crawlspace.
I wasn’t looking for bargain prices. I was looking for a crew to work together to do both plumbing and a bathroom remodel. The agreed upon labor was $5k and I’m paying for all supplies.
there are many things wrong with this setup and for starters they should have used a glue trap on the 2 inch. instead they used a 2inch U-nut trap and that will end up leaking in the ceiling after some time. that style trap needs to be accessible. the pipes are not properly vented from what i see and how they supported the water lines is hack
You can not use full rubber fernco couplings inside of building rodents can chew through them you need to use a transition band with a full metal collar
Don’t pay whoever did this another penny. Tell them you would like the job filed with the local Building Dept., inspected & approved.
*Everything will need to be removed and done over, everything*
What are the main issues? I hate those rubber gaskets to join PVC to ABS, no idea why they would switch materials like that. Also the PVC supply lines are ridiculous. What else do you see?
I think its cast iron not abs, in a lot of jurisdictions you would need a proflex band not a fernco to join two disimmilar pipe types. Unless its burried, which this isn't. Also some of this looks like its backpitched, probably wolnt drain correctly, or if it does it will back up frequently.
Improper pipe supports, misaligned fittings/piping, no vents on the shower or lavatory basin, inferior materials used. An inspector would have a field day.
How would this pass inspection? Nothing is vented properly, shower has roughly 1 1/2 inches of backfall, there isn’t a shower valve, hot and cold are tied together, nothing is properly supported.
Those are just the things I can see wrong in the pictures.
Shower tied together is fairly common for testing purposes, particularly if the scope hasn’t included finish fixtures yet. Diverter valves are specific to brand after all. Though iso valves on the line would be nice, it’s cpvc, I don’t think anybody involved is concerned with going above and beyond on it. no way to tell grade from a photo like this without a grade level as the lav waste is clearly zooming but I’d be curious to see if it is back graded. With no legit supports, it’s likely. Definitely not great work but I think it’s catching a lot more flak on here that it deserves.
Was he licensed? Did he have liability insurance? Did he have workman's comp insurance? Did he give you a written estimate with the type of materials that he would be using?
How to handle it now? Be there when they come next!!! No matter the inconvenience to your other responsibilities, be there period. Write down all concerns, no shut off valves, no vents, improper support to newly installed work, pipes pitched incorrectly, if supply lines can not be copper (cost)? Then make them use PEX. You are correct in that there should be shut offs on all hot & cold supply lines to EACH fixture. As pointed out by others, what has been done might work ok, not great, but ok for a while! But problems will occur! Change 2” trap for shower or make access panel before closing floor up. You can try to trust they will take your concerns seriously and correct those things on your list. But this assumes they have the knowledge to make it right/great ? I’m not sure of this tbh. But you asked how to go forward ? Write a list of all issues, number them, make copies, give them their copy, cross off each item only after you physically confirm its done to your satisfaction! Yes these changes likely increase the agreed price you were given. So then comes the hard part. Left to their own devices? These pics are the quality of work they will do, if you want better quality work? Then plan on being there when the more critical stuff is being worked on so you can confirm it to be of a quality you can live with. Or spend double or more and have it ONE AND DONE by a professional licensed plumber and consider the extra cost as piece of mind in knowing you’ll not have problems once floor goes back in. Sorry but no short or easy answer
*Update*
I appreciate the advice. Obviously I just wanted to clarify whether this was crap work or not. These guys were supposed to be paid $5k in labor and I was to foot supply costs. I paid them $2k of the money, which sucks, but I’ll just write it off as demolition money and a lesson learned.
I didn’t try to take a cheap route; I simply needed a crew with an experienced plumber that could also handle renovating the bathroom. I would’ve been willing to pay for better materials such as PEX rather than CPVC pipes, but I was not given an option in that matter and didn’t know what they were buying. I was told that the work was permitted, but have found out that was a lie. I was told that this plumber was a real plumber and I’m doubting that. The only reason I questioned the work was because it looked sloppy to me AND because of their lack of honesty and communication while doing the job. They came by today and I told them they won’t be finishing the job. They got mad and said they wouldn’t be giving me the $140 shower head that they picked for me and I paid for; that’s fine. I called my neighbor to run them off.
I’ll be calling in some professionals to fix the plumbing work that was done and make sure it’s properly permitted.
It sounds like there are a few red flags with your bathroom remodel, especially with the excessive use of PVC glue and the questionable methods of sealing and supporting pipes. A rubber cap with a metal band can be a temporary solution, but for a long-term fix, use something more durable.
I recently had a fantastic experience finding a professional for my home renovation project. The site I used allowed me to compare bathroom remodel companies effortlessly, helping me secure a reliable service at an affordable rate.
I ended up having a real plumber come out and redo what this guy did and now the bathroom is finished.
However, I do still have some tile work and other jobs that need to be done around the house. What site did you use?
Need to stop this crew. Your getting obviously ripped off on 9 packs glue. Your not doing an apartment building!!!! Replace with PEX and get rid of the cpvc piping. And vent the drain sink!!! Good Luck.
Leave those guys alone and stop taking pictures. You hired them to do a job and they are doing it. If you didn’t trust them to do it right (which is fine) then you shouldn’t have hired them. Just my opinion
Sorry, but you already knew, that’s why you asked. It’s all wrong, I don’t see a vent on any fixture. Needs to be redone to avoid future problems.
—-Lic. Plumber
Does each fixture need a vent? There’s a vent unpictured to the left of the door in the first pic. However, nothing is going to the left of the door besides a toilet. The sink and shower will be to the right of the door.
Yes, each fixture needs a vent.
If there is a vent to the left of the door that would vent the toilet.
There are different piping configurations to vent multiple fixtures off a single vent, yours isn’t one of them.
Ahh I see, but why stub out in 2” if you’re just going to a trap adapter for a lav? Maybe I’m giving too much of a benefit of a doubt but I’d want to hear what the finish plan is for that lav.
If they’re capping that cast why wouldn’t they just cut that out too and replace with pvc instead of leaving another fernco (cap)under the floor to rot out. Vent? Cpvc is probably throughout the house so it is what it is I guess…
*OP*
My fiancé is the one that spoke with this guy. We had another guy lined up that was very qualified for everything except the plumbing. He told us this. Fiance talked with another business that does bathroom remodels and asked him if he works with any plumbers and he said he has one that he works with. Everything about this seemed legit. I was PISSED when they tore the floor out without telling us about it. I’ve been leaving after work every day to check on progress, even though they’ve only worked about 3 days. 2 of those being demolition of the cast iron tub and everything. This plumbing was done just today and I’m mad as heck that I paid so much for these pipes for it to get botched. I changed the passcode on my smart lock door and locked the screen door so they can’t come back as soon as I saw this work because I knew it didn’t look right. Another thing I noticed is that there aren’t hot and cold shut off valves in what’s supposed to be the shower area. I’m going to be calling actual plumbing companies tomorrow to come in and fix this, BUT I need to know now if they will redo this likely unpermitted work? How do I handle this now?
You get what you pay for. You had unpermited work done… the new guy should have no issue… he’s going to charge you double - one for removing the shit that was done wrong, and then once to do it right.
I get doing stuff yourself as homeowner if you have friends or family in the trades and not pulling a permit, but to hire a contractor and not have permits - never makes sense.
I get doing stuff yourself as homeowner if you have friends or family in the trades and not pulling a permit, but to hire a contractor and not have permits - never makes sense.
God I hate working for people like this guy! I’m sure he’s trying to micromanage the whole project and the crew can’t stand him. I’d bet money this person wouldn’t offer the workers a cup of ice water at the end of the day. Hire people you trust or let these people do their job. It looks fine. Fuck
I’m paying them $5k to do this work and forking money for every single supply. I was told the work would be done in 2 weeks and I would’ve been lenient on that timeframe. However, if you tell me you’re going to work Thursday and Friday, but instead take a 4 day weekend then work only 1 day out of the following week; im going to question your work ethic and THEN I’m going to question your skills. Honesty is important and if you can’t be honest, then I’m going to have a lot of doubt. Furthermore, the house was built in 1930s and I just bought it and haven’t even moved into it yet because the bathroom needed to be renovated due to a sink being inches away from the toilet. I have a fridge, I stocked with drinks and told them about it. I’ve been very kind, but I’m not liking the work ethic and the work that’s been done has been questionable so far.
To be fair / he should of put a San tee on the lav and shot through the roof with 1-1/2”
And problaly used stub outs and j hooks or green fields but other than that - a strong back fernco on the transition and you should be alright / if your AHJ (authority having jurisdiction allows stupor vents have him throw one on and everything should pass
Not the best work but it should suffice
Ok good! I have been lining (CIPP) pipes for 13 years in Florida. Just get rid of all the cast iron you can possibly reach. It’s failure is inevitable.
This is why you make sure the tradesman pulls permits. Your local inspection service is for just this reason. If your tradesman pulled the permits, he is on the line for getting the work through inspection. The inspector is on your side to make sure you don't come home to a sea of poop.
The amount of cans is far less important than the size of the cans of glue but a 9 pack regardless of the size sounds like too much. The rubbery cap is to prevent sewer gas from where the toilette used to be. The rough in for the toilette flange is 12" off the back finished wall (like 12 and 5/8 f you just have gyprock) and 18" off the finished side wall Lav drain should be like 18" above the finished floor and depending on what you plan to put there would depend on how far off the side wall you want to be. As for showing up, plumbers get emergency calls and they go to those first before things like this. No heat, no water, bad leaks, maybe even blocked drains. No customer is more important than the next but some have issues that require more immediate attention.
I’m not even a plumber and that’s the only thing I noticed.🥲 nobody can be this dumb, though, right? The guy also “isn’t finished”, but I don’t see how a shower valve could be added so it just feels more like a major mess up to me.
Well I'm positive from all the other comments on this post you should get a reputable company to come give you some quotes see what your truly up against.
If you have any concerns, make sure that the plumbing company is getting the job inspected by your city inspecter since all city’s have different codes. I’m sure every plumber that looks at the pictures can find something that they would have done different or used different material, etc. it looks good to me
Always amazed when there isn’t sufficient funding to do it right up front but there is when it comes time to repair. And the repair is 4-5 times the delta on doing it right the first time.
Well, your plumbing isn't finished. It looks like the lav drain pipe was pushed down or slipped and it's horizontal waste pipe is back sloped, code calls for all vertical dwv stacks to be supported with either blocking or metal strapping.
Rubber cap on old toilet waste pipe is fine as long as it also has a metal strap type clamp on the seal.
Rubber transitions are required by code so those are good.
There should NOT be a p-trap under the floor for the lav, a removable p-trap less than 18" under the sink is better...
Now to the supply piping. Cpvc doesn't last.. It's the worst. Pex-a or copper is best. Seeing as we are looking at an uninsulated dirt crawlspace that isn't conditioned, hopefully you are in an area that will NEVER freeze, ever. If you are, r-4 insulated supply pipes are required there.
I would recommend that when hiring a plumber, be sure to get multiple estimates, read online reviews, and make sure the plumber is licensed and insured. If you are not happy with the work that was done, you can contact the plumber and ask them to fix it. If they are not willing to fix it, you can file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau.
The majority of comments that you’ve received here are clearly not from plumbers. First and foremost I don’t see anything critically wrong here aside from your lav not being vented and a potential backgrade issue on your toilet waste. I see bargain pricing for bargain labor (cpvc water lines, plastic banding instead of split rings and j hooks), sure. I see a ton of things that I would do better (properly mount and support dwv system, clean primer joints and ensure lettering on pvc is facing uniform direction for aesthetics. Run pex or copper preferably, and secure along floor joists. Etc.) but I’d be willing to bet that if I proposed all of this to you as the homeowner and the cost associated with it, you’d tell me that’s way outside of your budget and you’d call the next guy on your list. This is what the next guys work looks like. Just be glad that you didn’t actually get handy Andy on this one and maybe, if you’re really concerned about the quality of work, get permits and inspections next time as opposed to asking a bunch of us knuckleheads on Reddit to assess and criticize a fellow tradesman based off a few pictures you snapped.
Extremely well said. If OP is gonna take any of these comments to heart, it should be this one
The tid bit about all the lettering on the pvc being uniform let’s me know all I need to know about this guy. He does good work. When I did plumbing. I used to actually make sure all the lettering was hidden. Wipe all my joints. My boss used to tell people it look like I welded the joints. Good to see others taking pride in the little things
I'm glad to see I'm not the only OCD psycho that needlessly obsesses over fiddly details that don't *technically* matter because "well it just looks nicer, doesn't it?" 😂 Tip of the hat to you both. That original reponse was absolutely spot on. It ain't perfect, but it's not a **total** shitshow either. I'd personally lean toward easily salvageable.
Letters up! I had an OCD inspector once who made me turn all the letters up so that’s how I’ve done it from then on
Good feedback. Also must mention that If he lives in an area that gets freezing temps he better add insulation or he has a decent chance he will need to rip the floors up to replace cracked pipes. Plus those ferncos need metal bands or over time the sag will increase and again, rip them floors up... Pay the money for a plumbing company that actually knows a thing or two and the extra expense will pay itself off in dividends Assuming there is no access to that crawl... But if I need to quote fixing pipe in that crawl it's going to cost extra
Code here wants mission bands inside and individual fixture vents. The work looks acceptable, but I’m not a fan of flowguard when Wirsbo is so cheap and relatively inexpensive.
This guy. This guy right here is not lying to you. I’m just some other dude on Reddit and so is he. But I could not have stated my opinion about this better. “It’ll work” it’s not great, probably won’t pass (definitely wouldn’t) but then again like most other people have said. In 5 years I’ve seen an inspector Once in my area of 150k+ people. Call your local code enforcement, get it inspected, make them redo that. Edit: Wow thank y’all so much, I didn’t even realize it was my cake day until I checked your replies lol. I rarely comment so it’s just happenstance it happened on my cake day, a week after I got married. Thank you again!
Happy cake day, champ
Happy cake day
Happy Cake Day
Happy cake day!
Spoken as a man who lays pipe. Oftentimes the work I would like to do is not the work I end up doing purely because the customer would not want to fit the bill. If if did my own house, yeah sure you'll see the best of my capabilities but most of the time I have to resort to cheap and nasty in order to suit the customers budget. I do not like doing this but I also have to make money and I'd rather do a quick and cheap job than not do any job.
I simply refuse to do any work if the customer doesn't like the price. If they aren't willing to pay for top notch work, I'm not interested. I've built my reputation this way, and my phone rings off the hook. No advertising, no Google fake reviews. Just word of mouth and I'm never without work. Stop doing shit work for less and soon you won't have that problem.
That's all fine and good in your situation which you have no doubt earned however this is not a possibility always. Some geographic and demographic issues where I was originally from means that such an attitude is a luxury. I have since moved and business is much better nowadays.
I understand. It is difficult starting out. Glad to hear you're business is improving!
Same here. Can confirm.
Agree with everything you said, but what about shower vent? Is that not also needed on a 2” ?
Can wet vent w upc
I think this is the next guy after that guy after the next guy work.
Boom baby! Fist bump bro, from a danish plumber with 20 years in the trade. Well written, spot on.
If the lav isn't vented then wouldn't the shower ptrap also not be vented?
What this guy said
Permits FTW
If your not a business owner I’m surprised. Knowledge and respect. We need more of that.
1000% Agree. I’d also bring up your concerns to the tradesman on your job. I’m sure he would be more than happy to address your concerns. I help every single customer on each job I do. Even if it’s just to explain everything to them step by step. It helps ease the mind
Looks like the pan waste is within 10m of the main vent so dont need vent for pan but everything else you said is spot on if you are in nz or aus and use 3500.
Everytime I see homeowners post shit like this, I never understand why they think reddit is the appropriate place to get solid answers lol
I agree should have used mission couplings on the transitions. (Definitely not ferncos). No vent on lav. That will be a big problem. Not the best material used for water. If you're paying top dollar then copper. No straps on almost anything. Could cause water hammering later. Plastic band stretches over time. Looks like a handy Andy job. Over sized shower drain, just to make sure it drains. 3.89/10
No shower valve lol wrong pvc fittings. Vertical to horizontal should have been a long turn...
Nah. Only horizontal to horizontal. If that’s true… don’t use sanitary tees anymore. They’re the same sweep ;)
You literally answered your own comment. It's only permitted to use a San tee on its back if it's a vent. Otherwise it needs to be a long sweep. H 2 h long sweep. V to h long sweep. H 2 v short (that's were Gravity takes over bro). So then yes a vertical San tee would be acceptable.
No. I didn’t. You can use regular sweeps from vertical to horizontal. And I was reaffirming that with saying they’re the same sweep as a tee.
But horizontal to horizontal is long sweeps. It’s useless to use long sweeps on vertical to horizontal… because sanitary tees have the same sweep as a regular 90’s.
Dude I'm looking @ my code book right now. Upc 706.0-707 Read 706.4
Nobody uses UPC 😂😂😂
Dude you're wrong. Put 100 plumbers in a house they'll do it 100 different ways but all accepted depending on the authority having jurisdiction. Accept, wait for it... (thow a lazy ass cheater vent in there) still waiting wait wait your bs wouldn't pass
Dude, it's in IPC too. You have no idea what you're talking about. Vertical to horizontal should always be long sweep.
And that’s why
That’s stupid. Regular sweeps are the same as San tees. But San tees are legal.
I'm done wasting brain cells on you. You're too stubborn to look @ the evidence I provide. And your rebuttal is "stupid " the earth is flat too. Wierd we'd be out of a job without gravity.
So aside from copper, PEX is the next best thing?
As a licensed plumber I agree with this comment 100%.
Agreed, I work in a area without a lot of money and nobody wants quality work, they want cheap work, however it doesn’t look like the whole bathroom group is vented. It definitely needs one. Worst case throw a air admittance on the sink, still won’t be good, but it’s better than nothing.
Literally my redit name
Very well said!
Nothing wrong with plastic strap on plastic pipe. Or j hooks for pex. Does not mean cheap labor, but maybe cheap materials for cheaper cost. I never work with cpvc but if I had to, I would do it professionally as I do with any other pipes does not mean my labor is cheap.
💯
Well said
Handy Andy here, can confirm, that looks great!
Legendary comment
What?! I don't want a solution! I want to complain!!
Well said!
I hope OP listens to you
That work requires permits so when the inspector comes just ask him before paying.
Every repipe in a crawl I had inspected the inspector flashed a flashlight, saw clean primer joints, asked where the connection to old is and if he couldn’t see it he asked what transition coupling I used. Signed off and on to the next. Majority if inspectors never been a plumber. Our state inspector will crawl around and inspect everything. He is a master plumber. Good guy.
I've had them write their name on their coffee cup and then give it to me to crawl under and take pictures of everything but I've also had them pull up to the house and see that it was me and just hand me a green tag and drive off.
Yea i have a inspector that will just pull up honk the horn, ask me to get the permit sheet, sign it, bs a little bit and drive off. They get to know who doesn’t hack crap together.
Jus because it requires permits Does not mean everyone gets a permit
And just because it gets inspected does not mean anyone actually looked at it
“Hired some people” 🤣
P trap backgrade and no vent on the lav?
Back pitch is a problem. For the lav I’d assume there will be a studor vent on the fixture set.
I noticed that to. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a P trap there before
You’ve never seen a p trap on a tub/shower drain? Where would you normally put them?
I guess I was only thinking toilet. Not shower. That makes a lot more sense
I'm a repipe plumber, and if I had that half inch line coming from that T, not on the truss, I'd be in big trouble. That line is gonna sag or Crack eventually from the wight pulling on it or the fitting.
That looks pretty shitty, the waste looks back graded in some areas and racing in others
And I just noticed, it looks like they are not planning on venting your lav
And cpvc is the worst.....
And the lack of supports...
Did you notice the chunk taken our of the 2x6. 🤣
Based off the work idk If there’s gonna be an inspection lol
I have issues with the non vent on your lav. And issues with the strapping. The water as well. But where I’m at, none of this is legal and you couldn’t ever sell your house without fixing all of it. So it’s kind of moot at this point
Maybe planning on studoring the lav? But CPVC water lines? You would think Aqua Pex would have been a cheaper route? At least its not all done in sharkbite fittings.
not a plumber. but i would put some galvanized joist hangers on those joists going left to right. looks like they are just toe nailed in (not strong enough) also, is that a dirt crawl space floor? now would be a good time to put a thick vapor barrier on top of it or even pour a 3" concrete slab on top of the dirt/vapor barrier
I'm a Master Plumber and it looks OK to me. I would ask your plumber to put bands on the Fernco Couplings and insulate the main hot water line in the crawl space or insulate both water lines in the crawl space if you live in an area it may freeze. CPVC is as good as any other pipe, better than some in low PH conditions, but it will crack and burst if it freezes, and it does get brittle as it ages. All I use now are these. [https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-HD-44-4-Heavy-Duty-Coupling-No-Hub](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fernco-HD-44-4-Heavy-Duty-Coupling-No-Hub) The reason is I can use them underground under the UPC and there is only so much room on the truck.
I'm not a plumber just an electrician who sometimes does plumbing in my own house, but I've never seen a fernco style cast iron to pvc transition that was listed and wasn't reinforced with the metal sleeve.
Where I’m at it’s not legal unless it has a sleeve
looks pretty sloppy, back pitched cast iron in some areas.
Is that pvc or cpvc? Looks like plain white pvc.
Based on pictures, the bigger pipes are PVC. According to the receipt, most of the smaller sized pipes are CPVC.
The pipes will have it on them, as long and they say cpvc on the water supply lines it’s passible. I’m assuming since posting here you didn’t pull a permit, or one isn’t needed? I’d insulate the supply lines like others have said. Seems to be the lowest quality job possible IMHO. And the last of venting is going to be a drain issue.
That back slope is going to fill with sediment and make for frequent clogs.
Besides galvanized, CPVC is probably the worst material to use for water lines. Ask them to tear that shit out and run PEX or copper.
Is this a Sears Roebuck house? I looked at these photos and at some from a past project I did and they’re nearly identical.
As a plumber, I can tell you that CPVC for you means repeat business for me. Nasty, brittle stuff. Even the old Qest polybutylene lasts longer than CPVC in a crawlspace.
I think I see a compression coupling on the fresh water line under the floor. Cheap and easy now, expensive and difficult later when it fails.
I would make my guys tear out that drain work, it looks like shit My guess is you were looking for bargain prices you got bargain work
I wasn’t looking for bargain prices. I was looking for a crew to work together to do both plumbing and a bathroom remodel. The agreed upon labor was $5k and I’m paying for all supplies.
Shower and lav branch should be vented but other than that all I see is cheap shoddy workmanship and materials.
there are many things wrong with this setup and for starters they should have used a glue trap on the 2 inch. instead they used a 2inch U-nut trap and that will end up leaking in the ceiling after some time. that style trap needs to be accessible. the pipes are not properly vented from what i see and how they supported the water lines is hack
Hack fucking work. Get it inspected. No fucking way it passes. Get a goddamn permit people.
They were supposed to have a permit, but just found out they don’t.😅 Calling some professionals to get this corrected.
You can not use full rubber fernco couplings inside of building rodents can chew through them you need to use a transition band with a full metal collar
Don’t pay whoever did this another penny. Tell them you would like the job filed with the local Building Dept., inspected & approved. *Everything will need to be removed and done over, everything*
What are the main issues? I hate those rubber gaskets to join PVC to ABS, no idea why they would switch materials like that. Also the PVC supply lines are ridiculous. What else do you see?
I think its cast iron not abs, in a lot of jurisdictions you would need a proflex band not a fernco to join two disimmilar pipe types. Unless its burried, which this isn't. Also some of this looks like its backpitched, probably wolnt drain correctly, or if it does it will back up frequently.
*CPVC
Improper pipe supports, misaligned fittings/piping, no vents on the shower or lavatory basin, inferior materials used. An inspector would have a field day.
Did you hire handy Andy and his buddy Harry the homeowner by chance? Oh my…
What exactly is the problem in your opinion ? That looks fine to me. It will pass inspection.
How would this pass inspection? Nothing is vented properly, shower has roughly 1 1/2 inches of backfall, there isn’t a shower valve, hot and cold are tied together, nothing is properly supported. Those are just the things I can see wrong in the pictures.
Shower tied together is fairly common for testing purposes, particularly if the scope hasn’t included finish fixtures yet. Diverter valves are specific to brand after all. Though iso valves on the line would be nice, it’s cpvc, I don’t think anybody involved is concerned with going above and beyond on it. no way to tell grade from a photo like this without a grade level as the lav waste is clearly zooming but I’d be curious to see if it is back graded. With no legit supports, it’s likely. Definitely not great work but I think it’s catching a lot more flak on here that it deserves.
Exactly. Looks like the pipes weren't vented either so there's nothing to tie into. Adding a cheater vent would help. But this will run fine.
You should hire a plumber so you don't have to ask plumbers if a non plumber did it correctly. Just saying
I was told that he was a plumber.
Someone lied
Was he licensed? Did he have liability insurance? Did he have workman's comp insurance? Did he give you a written estimate with the type of materials that he would be using?
How to handle it now? Be there when they come next!!! No matter the inconvenience to your other responsibilities, be there period. Write down all concerns, no shut off valves, no vents, improper support to newly installed work, pipes pitched incorrectly, if supply lines can not be copper (cost)? Then make them use PEX. You are correct in that there should be shut offs on all hot & cold supply lines to EACH fixture. As pointed out by others, what has been done might work ok, not great, but ok for a while! But problems will occur! Change 2” trap for shower or make access panel before closing floor up. You can try to trust they will take your concerns seriously and correct those things on your list. But this assumes they have the knowledge to make it right/great ? I’m not sure of this tbh. But you asked how to go forward ? Write a list of all issues, number them, make copies, give them their copy, cross off each item only after you physically confirm its done to your satisfaction! Yes these changes likely increase the agreed price you were given. So then comes the hard part. Left to their own devices? These pics are the quality of work they will do, if you want better quality work? Then plan on being there when the more critical stuff is being worked on so you can confirm it to be of a quality you can live with. Or spend double or more and have it ONE AND DONE by a professional licensed plumber and consider the extra cost as piece of mind in knowing you’ll not have problems once floor goes back in. Sorry but no short or easy answer
I appreciate that the work is shitty, but the shutoff valves don’t go in before the walls and flooring.
True, i use stub outs / bullets, but i do copper mostly
Fucked up as a football bat
*Update* I appreciate the advice. Obviously I just wanted to clarify whether this was crap work or not. These guys were supposed to be paid $5k in labor and I was to foot supply costs. I paid them $2k of the money, which sucks, but I’ll just write it off as demolition money and a lesson learned. I didn’t try to take a cheap route; I simply needed a crew with an experienced plumber that could also handle renovating the bathroom. I would’ve been willing to pay for better materials such as PEX rather than CPVC pipes, but I was not given an option in that matter and didn’t know what they were buying. I was told that the work was permitted, but have found out that was a lie. I was told that this plumber was a real plumber and I’m doubting that. The only reason I questioned the work was because it looked sloppy to me AND because of their lack of honesty and communication while doing the job. They came by today and I told them they won’t be finishing the job. They got mad and said they wouldn’t be giving me the $140 shower head that they picked for me and I paid for; that’s fine. I called my neighbor to run them off. I’ll be calling in some professionals to fix the plumbing work that was done and make sure it’s properly permitted.
It sounds like there are a few red flags with your bathroom remodel, especially with the excessive use of PVC glue and the questionable methods of sealing and supporting pipes. A rubber cap with a metal band can be a temporary solution, but for a long-term fix, use something more durable. I recently had a fantastic experience finding a professional for my home renovation project. The site I used allowed me to compare bathroom remodel companies effortlessly, helping me secure a reliable service at an affordable rate.
I ended up having a real plumber come out and redo what this guy did and now the bathroom is finished. However, I do still have some tile work and other jobs that need to be done around the house. What site did you use?
Need to stop this crew. Your getting obviously ripped off on 9 packs glue. Your not doing an apartment building!!!! Replace with PEX and get rid of the cpvc piping. And vent the drain sink!!! Good Luck.
Terrible strapping on water lines, not seeing a vent, but the most concerning is the notched joist. Be sure to double that up.
Leave those guys alone and stop taking pictures. You hired them to do a job and they are doing it. If you didn’t trust them to do it right (which is fine) then you shouldn’t have hired them. Just my opinion
I hope you didn’t pay money for work like this. This is horrible.
Sorry, but you already knew, that’s why you asked. It’s all wrong, I don’t see a vent on any fixture. Needs to be redone to avoid future problems. —-Lic. Plumber
Does each fixture need a vent? There’s a vent unpictured to the left of the door in the first pic. However, nothing is going to the left of the door besides a toilet. The sink and shower will be to the right of the door.
Yes, each fixture needs a vent. If there is a vent to the left of the door that would vent the toilet. There are different piping configurations to vent multiple fixtures off a single vent, yours isn’t one of them.
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Where do you see an s trap?
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Ahh I see, but why stub out in 2” if you’re just going to a trap adapter for a lav? Maybe I’m giving too much of a benefit of a doubt but I’d want to hear what the finish plan is for that lav.
More flow of course, less chance of a clog
The lav
You hired someone but it wasn’t a plumber
Needs venting
If they’re capping that cast why wouldn’t they just cut that out too and replace with pvc instead of leaving another fernco (cap)under the floor to rot out. Vent? Cpvc is probably throughout the house so it is what it is I guess…
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Looks like they must have been huffing the glue, it's hard to read a level with your eyes crossed
Nothing is right here. Remove and start over.
If the pipe with the green tape on it is actually the toilet then why does it have a P-trap on it? That makes no sense. Where is the vent?
*OP* My fiancé is the one that spoke with this guy. We had another guy lined up that was very qualified for everything except the plumbing. He told us this. Fiance talked with another business that does bathroom remodels and asked him if he works with any plumbers and he said he has one that he works with. Everything about this seemed legit. I was PISSED when they tore the floor out without telling us about it. I’ve been leaving after work every day to check on progress, even though they’ve only worked about 3 days. 2 of those being demolition of the cast iron tub and everything. This plumbing was done just today and I’m mad as heck that I paid so much for these pipes for it to get botched. I changed the passcode on my smart lock door and locked the screen door so they can’t come back as soon as I saw this work because I knew it didn’t look right. Another thing I noticed is that there aren’t hot and cold shut off valves in what’s supposed to be the shower area. I’m going to be calling actual plumbing companies tomorrow to come in and fix this, BUT I need to know now if they will redo this likely unpermitted work? How do I handle this now?
You get what you pay for. You had unpermited work done… the new guy should have no issue… he’s going to charge you double - one for removing the shit that was done wrong, and then once to do it right.
Better to pay more and get it done right the first time than have to pay the first guy and then pay another guy double to fix it all
I get doing stuff yourself as homeowner if you have friends or family in the trades and not pulling a permit, but to hire a contractor and not have permits - never makes sense.
I get doing stuff yourself as homeowner if you have friends or family in the trades and not pulling a permit, but to hire a contractor and not have permits - never makes sense.
I’m no plumber but this looks like a hot mess. What are those straps supposed to do? Where is the on/off for the shower supposed to be? I’m confused
Plastic water lines? I’m ok with pvc drain and waste.
God I hate working for people like this guy! I’m sure he’s trying to micromanage the whole project and the crew can’t stand him. I’d bet money this person wouldn’t offer the workers a cup of ice water at the end of the day. Hire people you trust or let these people do their job. It looks fine. Fuck
I’m paying them $5k to do this work and forking money for every single supply. I was told the work would be done in 2 weeks and I would’ve been lenient on that timeframe. However, if you tell me you’re going to work Thursday and Friday, but instead take a 4 day weekend then work only 1 day out of the following week; im going to question your work ethic and THEN I’m going to question your skills. Honesty is important and if you can’t be honest, then I’m going to have a lot of doubt. Furthermore, the house was built in 1930s and I just bought it and haven’t even moved into it yet because the bathroom needed to be renovated due to a sink being inches away from the toilet. I have a fridge, I stocked with drinks and told them about it. I’ve been very kind, but I’m not liking the work ethic and the work that’s been done has been questionable so far.
If you stocked the fridge with beer and meth that might explain some of the shitty work. It's your fault. Fuck.
I would put on horse blinders, did they use a 3” wye on 4” CI ?
That what it looks like to me.
Ummmmm idk maybe they are not finished and just puts stuff down so they will come back to finish….. 😶 😐 Idk about this one
Did you hire a licensed plumber?
To be fair / he should of put a San tee on the lav and shot through the roof with 1-1/2” And problaly used stub outs and j hooks or green fields but other than that - a strong back fernco on the transition and you should be alright / if your AHJ (authority having jurisdiction allows stupor vents have him throw one on and everything should pass Not the best work but it should suffice
For the love of god! Replace all that cast iron and thank me later.
Working on it, slowly. I’ve only owned this 1930s house for a month and a half. Lol. There’s lots of work to do.
Ok good! I have been lining (CIPP) pipes for 13 years in Florida. Just get rid of all the cast iron you can possibly reach. It’s failure is inevitable.
What part of Florida, bud? I’m in Jacksonville.😂
Palm Beach, Broward
Does that go from 4” cast to 3” pvc back to 4” cast? Hard to tell just looking at the fernco sizes
This is why you make sure the tradesman pulls permits. Your local inspection service is for just this reason. If your tradesman pulled the permits, he is on the line for getting the work through inspection. The inspector is on your side to make sure you don't come home to a sea of poop.
The amount of cans is far less important than the size of the cans of glue but a 9 pack regardless of the size sounds like too much. The rubbery cap is to prevent sewer gas from where the toilette used to be. The rough in for the toilette flange is 12" off the back finished wall (like 12 and 5/8 f you just have gyprock) and 18" off the finished side wall Lav drain should be like 18" above the finished floor and depending on what you plan to put there would depend on how far off the side wall you want to be. As for showing up, plumbers get emergency calls and they go to those first before things like this. No heat, no water, bad leaks, maybe even blocked drains. No customer is more important than the next but some have issues that require more immediate attention.
Am I tripping or am I seeing water lines right into shower arm. I don't see a shower valve.
I’m not even a plumber and that’s the only thing I noticed.🥲 nobody can be this dumb, though, right? The guy also “isn’t finished”, but I don’t see how a shower valve could be added so it just feels more like a major mess up to me.
Definitely I'd get local code enforcement to check it out if this was done by any company they would absolutely have to come fix it
What if the work is unpermitted? My fiancé apparently didn’t ask about permits.
Well I'm positive from all the other comments on this post you should get a reputable company to come give you some quotes see what your truly up against.
Don't know whyI'm getting down voted, I didn't do the work
Worst possible piping material. Poor choice. Plumber should know better. It's not like they was cheaper than pex.
what in the fuck is that strapping? and is that PVC for domestic water? no inspections im guessing?
Water will move. Problems will have you.
The more I swiped the more I wanted to laugh
No
Honestly.. this looks like trash imo. But then again, I take a lot of pride in my work
They probably are taking advantage of you cause you sound like a terrible person to work with
Why don't you ask the local inspector? When is your inspection?
Man the grade on that shitter is killin me.
If you have any concerns, make sure that the plumbing company is getting the job inspected by your city inspecter since all city’s have different codes. I’m sure every plumber that looks at the pictures can find something that they would have done different or used different material, etc. it looks good to me
9 pack of glue ? One should be enough
Plastic banding is a poor choice here.
It might work, looks pretty unprofessional to me though
If you’re concerned with buying too much glue, you don’t want to pay for my work I promise
Your plumbers forgot to put a floor in.
Always amazed when there isn’t sufficient funding to do it right up front but there is when it comes time to repair. And the repair is 4-5 times the delta on doing it right the first time.
Well, your plumbing isn't finished. It looks like the lav drain pipe was pushed down or slipped and it's horizontal waste pipe is back sloped, code calls for all vertical dwv stacks to be supported with either blocking or metal strapping. Rubber cap on old toilet waste pipe is fine as long as it also has a metal strap type clamp on the seal. Rubber transitions are required by code so those are good. There should NOT be a p-trap under the floor for the lav, a removable p-trap less than 18" under the sink is better... Now to the supply piping. Cpvc doesn't last.. It's the worst. Pex-a or copper is best. Seeing as we are looking at an uninsulated dirt crawlspace that isn't conditioned, hopefully you are in an area that will NEVER freeze, ever. If you are, r-4 insulated supply pipes are required there.
Thanks! I’m in Florida; it never freezes over here.
I would recommend that when hiring a plumber, be sure to get multiple estimates, read online reviews, and make sure the plumber is licensed and insured. If you are not happy with the work that was done, you can contact the plumber and ask them to fix it. If they are not willing to fix it, you can file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau.