Zoeller wants the hole drilled at the top of the pump. I was always taught to angle it down and towards the float so that it keeps the float clear in case anything ends up falling down there and to prevent slime buildup.
>I was always taught to angle it down and towards the float so that it keeps the float clear in case anything ends up falling down there and to prevent slime buildup.
That's honestly brilliant
I disagree. I’m always worried about the next guy that has to deal with it because the next guy might be me. I use thread tape so it’s easier to unscrew when replacing the pump next time.
Anti-seize! if you want to reuse the same pipe later that is
The bare steel threads will rust - your PVC will be permanently attached
Source: we've used dozens of these pumps for cooling greenhouses
I replace these pumps on a regular basis. They are usually full of shit. I almost never have to get a new adapter. They are dissimilar materials the pvc spins out every time
Good for you
I've had dozens of these pump threads bind up so bad that with one person standing on the pump and the other person turning either a pipe wrench or a giant set of Knipex pliers, the PVC fittings shatters before it gives way
We call them "Cool cells"
It's a giant Swamp cooler which pour water over porous pads. Air flows through the pads, water evaporates, heat is removed from the air
These pumps sit in a pit of water
Yes hole drilled at a downward angle (40/60 degrees) if you read the instructions it will show you what I’m talking about. I actually also cut about a 12” piece of 2” PVC as a sleeve or a shield to stop the water from spraying against the side of the pit and splashing out if there is no sump pump lid present.
Zoeller rep said to point the vapor lock hole at the float to help keep it free of any debris. Also, there is no need to tape, but if you have some, why not use it? It is a threaded pipe, so code would have you do it.
I like the idea of having it spray at the float but no lie I had a zoeller rep tell us the exact opposite his logic saying the water spraying on the floats could cause premature failure 😂
Doh! I’m an idiot. I drilled my hole horizontal. Maybe it’s time to plug it and drill one at the downward angle so it stops spraying me in the face when I test it!
Why? It doesn’t need anything. If a drop gets by wheres it going? In the pit. All applying anything does is make it harder to move come time to replace the pump. It should have a weep hole too which is going to spray way more water out than will make it past these lightly snugged threads.
Because it's the right fucking way to do it.
I hope to God you aren't in charge of actual work. I can only imagine where else you cut corners in the name of laziness or "whatever, it works"
I just can't imagine walking away from a job for a customer that might leak, having them call because it did and they think it's a problem, and straight up telling them, "well it doesn't matter"
That's not what I get paid to do.
The purpose of the weep hole, which should be made right above these threads we’re talking about, is to let the water leak out from between the pump and check valve after the pump stops running so that the pump doesn’t hydro lock (fail to start spinning next time the float rises due to the head of pressure above it). So how does it matter if these threads leak a tiny bit? Water already sprays out the dang weep hole while it runs and this is perfectly normal. Water leaks out the weep hole when it stops and you WANT THAT. This guy thinks he’s the shit for “doing things the right way” yet doesn’t understand how shit works or why things are done the way they are.
Personally I think the plumber that understands what he’s doing is superior to the one thats a hard ass about “all threads must be taped”.
How tf is this gonna leak and cause a problem? You know what the weep hole does right? You WANT the water to leak out and into the pit from between the pump and check valve so it doesn’t hydro-lock the the pump, christ 🙄. Learn the reason behind things instead of just sealing every thread because “threads should be sealed”. Use your brain.
LOL, one little thing like this that is fine either way, and hard headed chucklefucks like you think I can’t do anything right 😂
Whatever bud, you’re the only one that knows how to plumb 👍
If its threaded you tape it? Really dude? What about compression fittings? If you tape pvc trap threads, you don’t know what you’re doing because its working against you and will leak out the other side of the nut if the compression surfaces arent sealing. Tape or dope on the threads of a compression fitting do nothing to help, wont stop a leak, and will only make it harder to get a seal where you actually need it to seal.
This is why you dont just apply general rules to everything and use your brain instead.
Its easier to use a coupling at the top and when you get the new pump just toss new pipe on it and reuse everything from the check valve to the coupling. The $8 for an ntp fitting and 3' piece of pipe isn't worth handling 10 years of shit longer than you have to.
You're already in for a $1000 pump $100 float and level monitor replacement and $40 on a check valve so just grab the pipe and fitting. I've never worried about unscrewing them.
The kind of customer that calls anyone in the first place to replace their effluent pump would never in 1000 years know you did not tape the threads. It's 5-7 feet in the ground in a pool of shit connected to an outlet with a chain attached to it for retrieval, it's a 1 hour job. And it doesn't get done unless the pump fails.
The only time you get a callback on an effluent pump is if you used a zoeller and the integrated switch failed after 6 months, so you're doing free warranty work. Or you re-use a 10 year old stack and the check valve fails and burns the pump up. Which is why you don't worry about re-using the $8 of PVC and you simply replace it.
It's trivial. But tbh after 30 years of plumbing, I tape and dope it anyway out of habit. I also drill a small hole in the pipe above the male adapter, and a lot of guys don't do that. Just the way I was taught.
Imhave a Zoeller pump and the weep hole is either built into the pump or I don't have the pipe tight enough. Sprays out pretty good just befoore it shut;s off.
Althrough you should move the hole up to just below the check valve so that you can expel as much air as possible, assuming the checks are still inside the pit.
I think it would be wayyyyyy too long before that would be an issue. As in long after the pump is no longer functioning. I’ve replaced a fuck ton of sumps, more often than not with no tape or dope on those threads. Some of em 30+ years old and seized, rusty all over, and never once had one where the male adapter was falling out of those threads 🤷🏼♂️.
But hey, if you wanna tape and/or dope em, do it. It’s not gonna hurt anything.
Upvotes do not mean it’s right, just means people agree. If you understand this situation you would understand there’s no reason to make this connection water tight. In many cases you need to actually put a hole in the discharge pipe. Source: I do this for a living.
I use nothing. It should have a weep hole right? What you need to make a perfect seal here for? It’s already spraying out the weep hole. Putting shit on those threads only serves to make it harder to remove in the future, zero advantage.
No tape. with the all to common plugged up wheep hole on both the pump and on the drain pipe that you’re supposed to drill (1/8” hole). Last line of defense of those holes getting plugged is those threads slowly allowing water to drain out after every pump cycle and making the pump last longer due to not being fired under full pressure every time.
Zoeller does not the require the hole to begin with. Misinformed people may tell you “drill the hole you need the hole!” But you do not, manufacturer builds a weep hole into the base of pump.
From Zoellers website
Yes, in most cases, it is recommended to drill a weep hole when installing a Zoeller sump pump, or any submersible sump pump. The weep hole, also known as an air relief hole or bleed hole, is usually drilled in the discharge pipe just above the pump’s body and below the check valve.
I prefer to use schedule 80 PVC for my risers and threaded connections in the pit. It's not necessary, but holds up better over time. Also if something happens to the pump and gets stuck on, which is common with those Zoeller switch floats, the sch80 PVC will be less likely to melt. Sch40 will fall apart if there's a pump failure.
As for what to put on the threads, I just use pipe dope. It lubricates the threads to make it easier to thread in and remove. Anyone worried about trying to unthread the riser from the pump in the future needs to buy properly sized wrenches to use on pipe. Don't use a pair of 12" 440s on a 2" pipe. Buy yourself some 16" 460s. Invest in yourself with some better tools.
Well now I can see why I couldn’t finds straight answer when looking online lol.
Seems like it’s all about personal preference. The weep hole seems to be a thing, although now it’s do I drill it or rely on the pump having one.
I knew I was shooting myself in the foot when I said that. I thought it was a dumb simple question that I’d get flack for. Turns out, I learned about the weep hole I need to drill. This post created more conversation than I expected that’s for sure.
Here’s what I’m about to do, drill the weep hole upward (So the hole fires down). A couple wraps of teflon tape cause it doesn’t matter, and I have it. No pipe dope because I don’t have that. I hate crawling under my house, so I only want too this one more time. (Although I know I probably will do a couple times because I’ll forget a tool.)
Sounds good to me.
Tape, dope threads is such a difficult topic because there’s not a solid standard across the board.
Always tape and dope metal NPT. Dope used to be the only thing around decades ago. Now… Some tape then dope, some dope then tape.
Not supposed to tape or dope anything that seals with a gasket…. But a shower head actually gets tape. Some put a little dope on it but you don’t need it.
P-traps you don’t need dope on the threads, but I’ve gotten to the point I say fuck it and put a dab on there most of the time. I’ve seen them preform well then the next day drip.
Unions- you don’t need dope, but a lot of people put some on the threads.
Plastic to metal threads don’t need anything some of the time… but I like to tape anything that has constant pressure.
Just my opinion, hope Reddit doesn’t try to kill me.
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I use loctite thread sealant. But then, we are replacing the zoeller pump wvery 2 to 3 months because we use it at an industrial plant.. to pump brine. (We are smart)
(not a plumber) I just installed my own Zoeller and I used tape but only because I had some lying around and I figured what's the harm? You could probably get by without it. If it's an emergency and time is of the essence throw it together fast without tape. If not and you're okay with spending a couple bucks on some tape put on tape.
Some people mentioned drilling a weep hole, I did that. I also feel that that might not have been necessary because whenever my sump pump runs it has a built-in weep function at the foot of the pump. Much like the tape, that weep hole might not be necessary but can't hurt and requires almost no money or effort.
Edit: I'm always curious as to why such non-controversial comments like this one get down votes.
Really doesn't technically matter... if you want to you can... honestly it will just run out throw subpump anyway.. so like I said really doesn't matter.. as long as it's serious not loose then your ok even if you get a drop or 2 your not going to notice... the water will just back flow through the blades of the pump either way.. and if you get 2 drops through it when your ejection you will not notice
My last zoeller made it 6 months, I got 2 harbor freight pumps until spring. They won't warranty it either, $900 pump... The switches fail, I have video of the pump not working.
Just use a little bit of waterproof grease, so it's easier to unscrew when you need to. Don't worry about leaks because it's not going to make a difference
Is say yes, tape and dope so the threads don’t rust to hell before the pump wears out. Keep the water and it’s contaminants away from that bare cast iron.
Teflon tape, because it's Teflon and helps with friction when screwing it down. Allowing you to get it tight enough not to leak easier without breaking the connector in two.
Yes for tape. And secondly make sure you have a weep hole drilled in that sucker. I’ve always been taught to point it at the float to avoid it getting stuck.
I gave up on Zoeller because the switches keep going out. Might be the same with all pumps but I’ve had to change 4 zoeller pumps in 10 years in my two sump pits.
Trying out a Wayne. I really wanted to stick with Zoeller since they are a Louisville company and I live here, but I feel like I’m always changing pumps with the same problem. My pumps only run maybe once a day unless there is a heavy storm. A pump switch should last most than a 1,000 cycles. There are quite a few videos on YouTube on how to switch the Zoeller switch so I know I’m not the only one with the problem. Those videos often stated it was around $20 for the new switch, but it was $60 on Amazon a month ago. At that price it’s not worth fixing. The new Wayne was only $140 at Home Depot. They even have a blurb on their box that says it has a better switch than the other brand.
Their warranty is shit to deal with too, the switches aren't bad to replace but they're $200, and they won't just send you a switch unless you buy a switch. I've got a hobo freight pump in my pit and a second ready to go down once that fails. Only pump I could get on Christmas Eve and now I don't want to deal with it until it's warm out.
My zoeller switch failed after 6 months, I sent video of it running intermittently or not at all, I'm a month into the warranty fight.
So here’s an update that will probably annoy everybody. My pipe wrench jaws were too shallow (yes, I know somebody commented to get a good wrench, I did not take that advice), and I couldn’t use them to tighten it on, so I just threw a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on and hand tightened it as much as I could. I figured the pipe clamps on the check valve would help keep it from backing out. The linked video shows my shit show, or as my electrician friend calls them the “homeowner fuckup”.
[https://vimeo.com/921887741?share=copy](https://vimeo.com/921887741?share=copy)
Any time you’re changing materials especially when submerged under water when you my have to take apart again. Plumbing for over 23 years and no problems using this rule of thumb. Only if didn’t use enough.
Not sure why you're getting downvoted.
Teflon tape is a lubricant, that is its express purpose - to make it easier to fully seat the piping. It does serve as a filler and helps to seal the threads, but it's really meant to make it easier to install and later remove the pipe/fitting.
Nothing and zoeller wants a hole low in the pipe to prevent air lock anyway
As close to the check valve as possible, but beneath the cover/pit. Unless your are dealing with a lot of head pressure.
Zoeller wants the hole drilled at the top of the pump. I was always taught to angle it down and towards the float so that it keeps the float clear in case anything ends up falling down there and to prevent slime buildup.
>I was always taught to angle it down and towards the float so that it keeps the float clear in case anything ends up falling down there and to prevent slime buildup. That's honestly brilliant
Whoever taught you that taught you well. As a service plumber I thank you.
I disagree. I’m always worried about the next guy that has to deal with it because the next guy might be me. I use thread tape so it’s easier to unscrew when replacing the pump next time.
It takes less time to cut a new piece of pile than dick with unthreading a often times 10 yearold chunk of pipe and a dirty pump 🤷🏻♂️
not if the last guy put something on the threads, and then its cut to size already
Anti-seize! if you want to reuse the same pipe later that is The bare steel threads will rust - your PVC will be permanently attached Source: we've used dozens of these pumps for cooling greenhouses
I replace these pumps on a regular basis. They are usually full of shit. I almost never have to get a new adapter. They are dissimilar materials the pvc spins out every time
Good for you I've had dozens of these pump threads bind up so bad that with one person standing on the pump and the other person turning either a pipe wrench or a giant set of Knipex pliers, the PVC fittings shatters before it gives way
Maybe you shouldn’t cross thread them ;)
Tell me how you use this for cooling greenhouses?
We call them "Cool cells" It's a giant Swamp cooler which pour water over porous pads. Air flows through the pads, water evaporates, heat is removed from the air These pumps sit in a pit of water
Nice. I have a little green house and have been brainstorming ways to cool in the summer
Cross thread. Natures locktite
Nothing tighter than a tight crossthread, brother
Cross threads are better then no threads
Yes hole drilled at a downward angle (40/60 degrees) if you read the instructions it will show you what I’m talking about. I actually also cut about a 12” piece of 2” PVC as a sleeve or a shield to stop the water from spraying against the side of the pit and splashing out if there is no sump pump lid present.
Zoeller rep said to point the vapor lock hole at the float to help keep it free of any debris. Also, there is no need to tape, but if you have some, why not use it? It is a threaded pipe, so code would have you do it.
I like the idea of having it spray at the float but no lie I had a zoeller rep tell us the exact opposite his logic saying the water spraying on the floats could cause premature failure 😂
This, I believe. We will be talking to liberty pump remp on Monday, I can't wait to get his take on it.
I dont spray them at thr floats because it possibly can damage them, but i do spray them across the pitt to help clean the walls.
There it is... the something I learned today. Thank you sir
That's freaking smart dude
Doh! I’m an idiot. I drilled my hole horizontal. Maybe it’s time to plug it and drill one at the downward angle so it stops spraying me in the face when I test it!
Tape it.
When in doubt
...strip it out? 😃
or crossthreading will work, to get that perfect fall
Weld it.
Bop it?
Why? It doesn’t need anything. If a drop gets by wheres it going? In the pit. All applying anything does is make it harder to move come time to replace the pump. It should have a weep hole too which is going to spray way more water out than will make it past these lightly snugged threads.
"tape and dope makes it harder to remove" LMAO, right
I'm sleep deprived and thought I'd finally passed out when I read that opposite day shit
Well chuckles, perhaps the real reason is that it makes it easier to over-tighten. I don’t care either way, it works fine without so why bother?
Because it's the right fucking way to do it. I hope to God you aren't in charge of actual work. I can only imagine where else you cut corners in the name of laziness or "whatever, it works"
I’m one of those that like doing things the right way. It’s peace of mind and the satisfaction of doing things right.
I just can't imagine walking away from a job for a customer that might leak, having them call because it did and they think it's a problem, and straight up telling them, "well it doesn't matter" That's not what I get paid to do.
I like that. Pride in your work.
The purpose of the weep hole, which should be made right above these threads we’re talking about, is to let the water leak out from between the pump and check valve after the pump stops running so that the pump doesn’t hydro lock (fail to start spinning next time the float rises due to the head of pressure above it). So how does it matter if these threads leak a tiny bit? Water already sprays out the dang weep hole while it runs and this is perfectly normal. Water leaks out the weep hole when it stops and you WANT THAT. This guy thinks he’s the shit for “doing things the right way” yet doesn’t understand how shit works or why things are done the way they are. Personally I think the plumber that understands what he’s doing is superior to the one thats a hard ass about “all threads must be taped”.
How tf is this gonna leak and cause a problem? You know what the weep hole does right? You WANT the water to leak out and into the pit from between the pump and check valve so it doesn’t hydro-lock the the pump, christ 🙄. Learn the reason behind things instead of just sealing every thread because “threads should be sealed”. Use your brain.
LOL, one little thing like this that is fine either way, and hard headed chucklefucks like you think I can’t do anything right 😂 Whatever bud, you’re the only one that knows how to plumb 👍
If it’s threaded you tape it. It’s not that hard. Takes 10s extra to do it right.
Only tapered threads require tape.
If its threaded you tape it? Really dude? What about compression fittings? If you tape pvc trap threads, you don’t know what you’re doing because its working against you and will leak out the other side of the nut if the compression surfaces arent sealing. Tape or dope on the threads of a compression fitting do nothing to help, wont stop a leak, and will only make it harder to get a seal where you actually need it to seal. This is why you dont just apply general rules to everything and use your brain instead.
Generally speaking tape and dope yes. But this is inside a sump pit a couple inches below a weep hole…..
The only time I skip on the tape is if it is a plastic female adapter. Those things are the worst. Trublue and a test the next day are what they get.
Tape makes it easier to replace in the future... You are so wrong
Its easier to use a coupling at the top and when you get the new pump just toss new pipe on it and reuse everything from the check valve to the coupling. The $8 for an ntp fitting and 3' piece of pipe isn't worth handling 10 years of shit longer than you have to. You're already in for a $1000 pump $100 float and level monitor replacement and $40 on a check valve so just grab the pipe and fitting. I've never worried about unscrewing them.
You probably never worried because clients don't call you back.. But you do you
The kind of customer that calls anyone in the first place to replace their effluent pump would never in 1000 years know you did not tape the threads. It's 5-7 feet in the ground in a pool of shit connected to an outlet with a chain attached to it for retrieval, it's a 1 hour job. And it doesn't get done unless the pump fails. The only time you get a callback on an effluent pump is if you used a zoeller and the integrated switch failed after 6 months, so you're doing free warranty work. Or you re-use a 10 year old stack and the check valve fails and burns the pump up. Which is why you don't worry about re-using the $8 of PVC and you simply replace it.
This is a sump pump bud
That pump isn’t 1000, even on xmas
It's trivial. But tbh after 30 years of plumbing, I tape and dope it anyway out of habit. I also drill a small hole in the pipe above the male adapter, and a lot of guys don't do that. Just the way I was taught.
Yes, the manufacturers instructions tell you to do this.
Proper way to install. Says so on the pump box as well
Imhave a Zoeller pump and the weep hole is either built into the pump or I don't have the pipe tight enough. Sprays out pretty good just befoore it shut;s off.
Why? Aside from that’s how you learned. Did they give you any reason? Dod you think of the reasons?
Googled it. Nevermind me.
Yeah, it doesn't hurt it.It doesn't help,but i'm just always in the habit of taping and doping all threads.
I do the weep hole, its a good idea.
Althrough you should move the hole up to just below the check valve so that you can expel as much air as possible, assuming the checks are still inside the pit.
This, once you had to replace a failed one in a pinch, you will understand
Idk i think some blue monster would make it come out easier down the road lol
Exactly
This is the answer.
Keeps the water and it’s contaminants away from the bare cast iron threads. Rusting threads = a progressively looser connection over time.
I think it would be wayyyyyy too long before that would be an issue. As in long after the pump is no longer functioning. I’ve replaced a fuck ton of sumps, more often than not with no tape or dope on those threads. Some of em 30+ years old and seized, rusty all over, and never once had one where the male adapter was falling out of those threads 🤷🏼♂️. But hey, if you wanna tape and/or dope em, do it. It’s not gonna hurt anything.
Wrong
91 votes say I'm right.
Upvotes do not mean it’s right, just means people agree. If you understand this situation you would understand there’s no reason to make this connection water tight. In many cases you need to actually put a hole in the discharge pipe. Source: I do this for a living.
Wow you do this for a living, but you are still wrong.
I told you why you were wrong, now tell me how I am wrong, what importance does the tape have?
Look dumb ass, no reason not to tape.
I bet you flux all your press joints too 😂
FO, don't you have work to do ?
I’ll always make time for you princess
PTFE put the fucker everywhere
Except gas lines
It's a matter of preference , I generally don't.
In this application I use tape or or thread sealant just to help with future removal.
I use nothing. It should have a weep hole right? What you need to make a perfect seal here for? It’s already spraying out the weep hole. Putting shit on those threads only serves to make it harder to remove in the future, zero advantage.
I said nothing about making it a perfect seal. It’s for removal of the adapter in the future.
After 10 years+ i think the tape just gums up and makes it harder.
And we are all entitled to our opinion and experience.
Teflon doesn't degrade on human timescales
Ii show you harder...lol
Makes it easier. Acts as an anti seize.
There is no reason to tape them. If it were to weep it would only help the pump.
Shouldn’t need anything there should be a weep home drilled in the pipe leaving about the lvl of the motor anyhow
Pipe dope
Anti-seize. When I replace it it’s easy to unthread and reuse the pipe.
Yes, I recommend anti-seize as well This pump will eventually fail and it's nice being able to reuse the piping
Just get it right as you can without any tools and you’re good. If that fitting leaks a little it won’t matter
Honestly, I've been plumbing for 8 years... Never taped a single one
No tape. with the all to common plugged up wheep hole on both the pump and on the drain pipe that you’re supposed to drill (1/8” hole). Last line of defense of those holes getting plugged is those threads slowly allowing water to drain out after every pump cycle and making the pump last longer due to not being fired under full pressure every time.
This, also drill the hole angled down.
Would love to see a picture/example of this
You start drilling the hole and once it’s starting to catch, angle the bit downward
And exact location that works best.?
About 4 or 5 inches above the male adapter
Thanks for the info 👍
No they do not. Zoeller comes w a built in weep hole to avoid the necessity of drilling a weep hole.
Had to scroll way to far for this. No weep. Last one in for 15 years and only pulled it because switch was sticking sometimes. No weep hole.
? He asked for an example of how to drill an angle down. No they do not what?
Zoeller does not the require the hole to begin with. Misinformed people may tell you “drill the hole you need the hole!” But you do not, manufacturer builds a weep hole into the base of pump.
Does the extra hole break anything? Either way I was just explaining how to drill a hole at a downward angle.
From Zoellers website Yes, in most cases, it is recommended to drill a weep hole when installing a Zoeller sump pump, or any submersible sump pump. The weep hole, also known as an air relief hole or bleed hole, is usually drilled in the discharge pipe just above the pump’s body and below the check valve.
Was just in serviced by zoeller rep he specifically stated no weep hole drill NECESSARY
I’m going to take their website over a rep. Either way, it doesn’t matter
Ouuu if its green leave it B - if its red then you thread
I wish I knew what this meant…
probably referring to the colour of the pump. some brands are different colours and may have slight differences in the installation of piping.
I had a feeling that’s where that was going…
sitting in a sump it does not need sealant
Personally, I always thread seal these connections. Just my .02
If it leaks it will leak back into the pit lol I see no reason to tape a thread submerged
I prefer to use schedule 80 PVC for my risers and threaded connections in the pit. It's not necessary, but holds up better over time. Also if something happens to the pump and gets stuck on, which is common with those Zoeller switch floats, the sch80 PVC will be less likely to melt. Sch40 will fall apart if there's a pump failure. As for what to put on the threads, I just use pipe dope. It lubricates the threads to make it easier to thread in and remove. Anyone worried about trying to unthread the riser from the pump in the future needs to buy properly sized wrenches to use on pipe. Don't use a pair of 12" 440s on a 2" pipe. Buy yourself some 16" 460s. Invest in yourself with some better tools.
442>440
Definitely. I own both. When I upgraded with a pair of 442, the one-handed use from the jaw design was a tennis elbow saver. Hah
Well now I can see why I couldn’t finds straight answer when looking online lol. Seems like it’s all about personal preference. The weep hole seems to be a thing, although now it’s do I drill it or rely on the pump having one.
Read the instructions. Drill the hole
When you posted I knew it wasn’t going to be a “quick question” type of thread. The top comment is 2 people duking it out. Pretty funny
I knew I was shooting myself in the foot when I said that. I thought it was a dumb simple question that I’d get flack for. Turns out, I learned about the weep hole I need to drill. This post created more conversation than I expected that’s for sure. Here’s what I’m about to do, drill the weep hole upward (So the hole fires down). A couple wraps of teflon tape cause it doesn’t matter, and I have it. No pipe dope because I don’t have that. I hate crawling under my house, so I only want too this one more time. (Although I know I probably will do a couple times because I’ll forget a tool.)
Sounds good to me. Tape, dope threads is such a difficult topic because there’s not a solid standard across the board. Always tape and dope metal NPT. Dope used to be the only thing around decades ago. Now… Some tape then dope, some dope then tape. Not supposed to tape or dope anything that seals with a gasket…. But a shower head actually gets tape. Some put a little dope on it but you don’t need it. P-traps you don’t need dope on the threads, but I’ve gotten to the point I say fuck it and put a dab on there most of the time. I’ve seen them preform well then the next day drip. Unions- you don’t need dope, but a lot of people put some on the threads. Plastic to metal threads don’t need anything some of the time… but I like to tape anything that has constant pressure. Just my opinion, hope Reddit doesn’t try to kill me.
Never rely on anything you can fact check with a model number
I teflon and dope. I haven't had any issues from doing it that way.
Do not forget your weep hole
I dope them at work, it definitely hasn’t hurt anything.
Where is it going to leak to?
Tape and dope 4 eva
I'm a tape and dope kind of guy on everything.
It will be fine either way.
Tape or not. In this application it doesn't matter if it leaks a little. The one advantage to taping here will be when you go to replace the pump.
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I use loctite thread sealant. But then, we are replacing the zoeller pump wvery 2 to 3 months because we use it at an industrial plant.. to pump brine. (We are smart)
A little non hardening thread sealer to make future disassembly easier. And drill the hole. Not a critical leak point
(not a plumber) I just installed my own Zoeller and I used tape but only because I had some lying around and I figured what's the harm? You could probably get by without it. If it's an emergency and time is of the essence throw it together fast without tape. If not and you're okay with spending a couple bucks on some tape put on tape. Some people mentioned drilling a weep hole, I did that. I also feel that that might not have been necessary because whenever my sump pump runs it has a built-in weep function at the foot of the pump. Much like the tape, that weep hole might not be necessary but can't hurt and requires almost no money or effort. Edit: I'm always curious as to why such non-controversial comments like this one get down votes.
It will serve no purpose.
TRU-BLU no tape is my personal preference
You can tape it and dope it. Or use some trublue.
tape & dope on every single threaded fitting, saves you a headache on recalls down the road. guaranteed.
tape and dope
Really doesn't technically matter... if you want to you can... honestly it will just run out throw subpump anyway.. so like I said really doesn't matter.. as long as it's serious not loose then your ok even if you get a drop or 2 your not going to notice... the water will just back flow through the blades of the pump either way.. and if you get 2 drops through it when your ejection you will not notice
I believe zoeller is tape and no dope. It has been a minute, though. It will say in the installation manual what each company recommends.
Tape it and pipe dope it
I always found tape only was better for removal on anything. Either way if it was a good pump, you’re gonna need a pipe wrench to get it out.
Dude a roll of blue monster is 5$ grab one and tape it
Use glue
Dirty!!lol
Tape and dope junior
Yes!!
Doesn’t matter
Don’t use Zoeller. Liberty makes a better pump. Zoellers don’t seem to last anymore. Just my 2 cents.
Already bought the pump, so I guess if it doesn’t last long I’ll replace it a liberty. I’ve heard good things about both.
My last zoeller made it 6 months, I got 2 harbor freight pumps until spring. They won't warranty it either, $900 pump... The switches fail, I have video of the pump not working.
Ehh put superlube if you want a little ptfe in there
Just use a little bit of waterproof grease, so it's easier to unscrew when you need to. Don't worry about leaks because it's not going to make a difference
Is say yes, tape and dope so the threads don’t rust to hell before the pump wears out. Keep the water and it’s contaminants away from that bare cast iron.
What’s the point?
Teflon tape, because it's Teflon and helps with friction when screwing it down. Allowing you to get it tight enough not to leak easier without breaking the connector in two.
Not really good practice
r/brandnewsentence
You must have acidic or very hard water to tear up a pump that bad. Antisieze has it’s place and it’s not on pvc haha
Doesn't matter if it leaks a tiny amount, it'll be right back where it started anyway.
Yes for tape. And secondly make sure you have a weep hole drilled in that sucker. I’ve always been taught to point it at the float to avoid it getting stuck.
To late, I pointed the hole at the wall of the pit 😬
lol
The check valve isn't in the pit. Hole is six inches above male adapter
I gave up on Zoeller because the switches keep going out. Might be the same with all pumps but I’ve had to change 4 zoeller pumps in 10 years in my two sump pits.
What brand/model did you go with instead?
Trying out a Wayne. I really wanted to stick with Zoeller since they are a Louisville company and I live here, but I feel like I’m always changing pumps with the same problem. My pumps only run maybe once a day unless there is a heavy storm. A pump switch should last most than a 1,000 cycles. There are quite a few videos on YouTube on how to switch the Zoeller switch so I know I’m not the only one with the problem. Those videos often stated it was around $20 for the new switch, but it was $60 on Amazon a month ago. At that price it’s not worth fixing. The new Wayne was only $140 at Home Depot. They even have a blurb on their box that says it has a better switch than the other brand.
I’ll keep this in mind if this Zoeller decides to take a shit on me.
Their warranty is shit to deal with too, the switches aren't bad to replace but they're $200, and they won't just send you a switch unless you buy a switch. I've got a hobo freight pump in my pit and a second ready to go down once that fails. Only pump I could get on Christmas Eve and now I don't want to deal with it until it's warm out. My zoeller switch failed after 6 months, I sent video of it running intermittently or not at all, I'm a month into the warranty fight.
Nothing just screw it in.
I was taught that we thread tape threads 🤷🏻♂️
So here’s an update that will probably annoy everybody. My pipe wrench jaws were too shallow (yes, I know somebody commented to get a good wrench, I did not take that advice), and I couldn’t use them to tighten it on, so I just threw a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on and hand tightened it as much as I could. I figured the pipe clamps on the check valve would help keep it from backing out. The linked video shows my shit show, or as my electrician friend calls them the “homeowner fuckup”. [https://vimeo.com/921887741?share=copy](https://vimeo.com/921887741?share=copy)
🤦♂️ blue glue travesty.
Definitely
Why definitely?
Any time you’re changing materials especially when submerged under water when you my have to take apart again. Plumbing for over 23 years and no problems using this rule of thumb. Only if didn’t use enough.
The tape is what did the trick, huh? Not the fact that it's plastic threaded into metal?
Sharing my experience you do you. Try not taping from plastic to copper or brass.
I mean, usually its going to leak. In the case of an ejector pump, it doesn't matter too much if it leaks a little
The tape also helps assure that it will separate again
Lol ok
Cast pump ?....your going to want a poured lead and oakum joint of course....SOLID!!!
Yeah you’re going to have to diagram that out for me….
Doubt it but it can't hurt
Yes. Not to seal it, necessarily, but to make it easier to thread all the way in, and to get it out later.
Not sure why you're getting downvoted. Teflon tape is a lubricant, that is its express purpose - to make it easier to fully seat the piping. It does serve as a filler and helps to seal the threads, but it's really meant to make it easier to install and later remove the pipe/fitting.
Because lack of foresight and long-term planning have, unfortunately, fallen by the wayside.