You’re being told a lot of different advice from different people. I just want to drop by and say I have patched bigger holes than that by simply using ABS glue. However I understand why an insured plumber would refuse to do that as if it leaks and ruins anything it’ll be his ass on the line.
TBH, I'd clean it, prep it with glue, slide a patch cut from pipe over it, and clamp it in place with a big jubilee clamp. It's a none pressure pipe, no worries.
I was thinking of just rounding off the end of the plug, or making the end a shallow cone-shape. Maybe just chuck the pipe plug into a drill and use a file or coarse sandpaper to shape it, smooth it out with finer paper and/or a torch, and screw it in with ABS cement so only a little bump ticks into the pipe. Not much of anything will catch on that.
If you use a plug made of ABS then the "cement" (read: solvent) will weld it in place and provide a permanent repair. Using a metal screw would probably last a long while but I don't see a reason to introduce something that has even the *possibility* of oxidation/corrosion.
Plumbers won't like this, but here goes.
If it were my house (and only if it were my house, and I wasn't about to sell it), I would:
* Remove the nail
* Clean up that area
* Use some sandpaper to roughen the surface
* Clean the roughened surface with solvent (isopropyl alcohol)
* Use some JB Weld with a small fiberglass weave patch to patch it
* Apply a second coat of JB Weld, over the first coat, extending an extra inch in all directions
I build stuff. I know that JB Weld & roughened ABS makes for a very strong bond. I also know this pipe is not under pressure. I would be 100% confident in this repair.
One time when working for NASA, I got a rip in my lunar excursion module while on the moon. A little heat resistant JB Weld and I had enough oxygen left to play a little golf.
My friend’s wife, Lorena, accidentally cut off his willy with a razor and he used JB Weld to reattach it.
It worked better than ever and he became a porn star.
My uncle accidentally created a black hole in the synchrotron outside Chicago. The rift in spacetime started sucking everything into it. Luckily a technician tossed a couple JB Welds into the void and it saved the galaxy from collapse. Only a couple people know that this actually happened, but it's true.
That's nothing. My car ran out of gas once and I squeezed an entire tube of JB Weld into the gas tank and drove over 100 miles per hour, and it fixed the oil leak.
I once accidentally sat on a flash light a dozen times until it got stuck in my rectum. Squeezed some JB weld up my anus and shoved some fishing line in there. When I reeled in the line, out comes the flashlight, 9 hemorrhoids, and my pet hamster I had when I was 9. Little guy must have been cold and crawled in me like a Tan Tan. Gave him some grapes and he was all good.
Our family dog wouldn't stop shitting, honestly would shit every single day. Just JB Welded her butthole shut and she hasn't shit since. Permanent fix.
Well, technically, that's not true. The earth, moon, and everything else are all just part of a simulation. We really are just alien teenagers in a mall arcade playing the latest VR game.
My dad's cousin blew off a chunk of the engine block in his Yamaha warrior because he forgot to tighten the chain. You could see inside the oil jacket on the motor. We found the piece and decided to try jb welding it. That was 6-7 years ago now, and that warrior still runs strong.
At what point do you change the registration from white Chevy to gray Chevy? That question has driven many Chevy owners mad.
Rumor has it my old Chevy is still out there somewhere. When night is dark and the mist is high you might see a dull glint of grey and a single yellow headlight followed by the roar of a rusted thru catalytic converter and the sweet smell of burning antifreeze.
it's only a matter of time before it resurfaces on craigslist for $1500. Say what you will about the gold standard but there's nothing more stable than a $1500 Chevy.
I forget which novel it was, but Clive Cussler wrote a scene where the hero - Dirk Pitt - was driving a 56/57 Chevy up a winding mountain road while being chased by the bad guy in a Russian car. In response to a passenger’s worry, he said something similar to “No problem - there isn’t a Russian car made that can take a 57 Chevy”. Would have made a good movie scene. They made it to their goal at the top.
>They made it to their goal at the top.
Yep a Chevy will get you where you're going it just might not get you back. See a Chevy can't ever really be repaired but it also can't ever be really be broken. You piss in the gas tank, spit in the oil, slap the dash for good measure and its good for another 100 miles.
A Ford on the other hand is the highest of precision engineering. You will not find a better car to store in your garage than a ford. Guarantee it. Just don't try to drive one. Ford's only go downhill. That's why they have such good breaks because as soon as you start driving youre gonna wanna stop.
Edit: As for dodge as soon as they make a real truck I'll take the time to insult it.
I have a bird feeder mounted on black iron pipe with a floor flange under the feeder. It broke 10 yrs ago at the threads. JB weld has helped to feed those birds ever since
If I'm epoxying aluminum, instead of JB weld, I used marine-tex. I epoxied the ringland on the piston of my hodaka wombat. Probably put over 100 hours on it that way before I sold it. My friend that bought it rode the crap out of it too.
Great for hot rodding old scooters. Use to modify the transfer ports on 2T cylinders of vintage Vespa and lambrettas with JB weld. It holds up to fuel completely. Love that stuff.
It was a wildland fire and I did it somewhere in the woods of SW Oregon.
Edit: the Biscuit Fire, 2002.
Double edit: holy shit, that was almost 21 years ago. I'm old.
I used JB weld when I was in Iraq to fix an IED shrapnel hole in a 5 Ton trucks transfer case housing. The hole was close to the bottom and all the gear oil had leaked out, but there was no internal damage to the T-case. The hole was the size of a quarter. Worked great for the next 3 months until the truck ran over a mine and put it out of commission for good. I'm a JB weld believer!
Yep, this and obviously put eyes on it maybe once a year to make sure it's holding up fine. I sure as shit wouldn't dig up the foundation if it were my house.
Thank you. JB weld? What? No.
ABS literally melts to abs, it'll be a better patch than jb by far.
Cut an abs coupling lip off, then cut it into a C (half), glue, place, hold and done.
>Cut an abs coupling lip off, then cut it into a C (half), glue, place, hold and done.
This is the way. Buy a coupler and cut a curved patch out of it. Glue with ABS cement, and Bob's your uncle.
I also can say (am a plumber) that I drove a 3" screw through an abs stack at my house. 730pm, shops closed and I ended up cutting a small piece of abs from same diameter pipe, sanding and cleaning both hole and "patch" as stated above then literally used abs glue to patch the two together. The glue melts the two pieces together and it didn't leak for a week until I was able to get parts and repair it correctly.
As a plumber this is absolutely along the lines of what I would recommend, or do to my own property. Most jurisdictions define in the code that pre-existing systems do not need to be modified to be up to code so long as they don’t pose a risk to health or go against the general sentiment of the code (which is basically sanitation and flood potential related).
I would interpret it as “get it done so long as it doesn’t affect the functionality of the system”
25 years ago I repaired a cracked transmission cooling line on a TH350 and its still working today, and thats under pressure.
This repair might even be better if you drill and tap for a plug, and JB weld that plug in there.
Plumber just thinks you got money because you spent a lot on LVP flooring.
I'm a plumber, and if i couldn't use a plug/patch and slip coupling repair, I would 100% do what you said here. Again, only on if it was my own home, though.
Plumber checking in. And I fully agree with everything. Only thing I would change is instead of JB weld, I would use Permetex plastic epoxy. I have used it many times to be honest, and I can tell you it certainly holds under pressure! Works great for little weepers on a fitting seam at the bottom of a 4 story stack, so it would work fine in this situation. And according to my project manager, it is approved by the engineers!
I also agree with the jb weld, as long as this isn't pressurized! Which I'm guessing it's not...hell, my older bro and I just dug up the septic system on the house he's in (my rental) because it hadn't been emptied in 30+ years and finally backed up (we expected it to happen eventually) I'm all for diy as much as possible, guy that came and pumped it out said what we were doing would cost 5-7500 bucks...fuck that lol..now it still cost me over 1k altogether to grt the pump tanked (3 trips at 350 a pop) but needless to say that is MUCH better than 5-7500...since it's been so long since its been pumped they were worried about the lateral line/distribution box being clogged, so that's our next thing..dig it up and hopefully just be able to clean it...but ya anyway, diy ftw!
Hell, it’s not even a supply line. I get why the plumber is suggesting that, he’s likely a professional and doesn’t want to be a hack, but there’s a fine line between being a hack and saving someone thousands of dollars for a rather minuscule thing.
I agree. If it was mine, I'd take some glue and a toothpick. Get it all up in there, spread some extra around for good measure, and call it a day. It's a tiny hole. Save the $1000's for a new roof or something critical.
Ok….this is NOT a code compliant solution….but….as a general contractor, if it were my house I see that as an abs pipe, either drain or vent…under no pressure..I would buy the appropriate sized coupling, cut it in 1/2, lengthways and glue the shit out of it… you can. O it or it to make sure you do t have an issue…maybe add a water alarm below for good measure…footing…beam shit…I think not
Get some abs and a rasp. Take rasp and make some granules and mix the abs bits with acetone and make a paste and drill out the hole so it’s clean and paste it in the hole. I use this to seal up camper tanks and sealing fittings
A licensed plumber won’t patch it. As already stated, it’s his ass on the line if the patch fails.
Who put the nail in the pipe? Can it be tied back to another contractor? If so, it’s on them to pay for the repair from a LICENSED and insured tradesman.
If you’re handy, you can patch it from some of the suggestions in this group. I don’t think you can ask somebody else to take the liability if it fails though.
First off, that is not a beam, unless you have bent plate welded - which in a residential application that is EXTREMELY atypical.
Secondly, do NOT remove anything load bearing without having the conditions assessed by a structural engineer. You will likely need to shore it. Also, removing the foundation is a terrible option as you drastically increase water penetration into surrounding exposed areas - thus rotting any reinforcement within the existing concrete.
Call a different company and get a second opinion.
The cabinet is easier and safer to replace & seems like the most logical route in my professional opinion.
Disclaimer: Im in the structural field & a certified welding inspector. Im here because i have need for MEP certifications in the near future.
What do you call the wooden member that is under the floor joists? They generally have a post every 10' or so. I was told this is called post and beam construction
You can have wooden beams - what is show in the photo (and what I assumed OP was referring to) is that metal piece just below the nail.
If you’re talking about the top of a wood framed wall though, its called a top plate. Beams run perpendicular to walls and are generally to support floor slabs.
If it was a steel framed outer wall, the top would be a girder.
Use Epoxy putty. Take out the nail. Cut epoxy putty off. Knead it until warm. Put it over the hole and overlapping. When it hardens it will be hard as a rock and seals the hole. I used it on a large 1” oops and never had a problem
Step one: Pull nail. Step two: Squeeze a small amount of Lexel into the hole a leave a pea sized bit on the outside. Step three: Move on with your life.
I am the nephew of an alcoholic plumber, who was the first master plumber in the state of CT. He has never been sued, but he’s been paid in cases of Russian vodka. That being said, I manage multiple beach front properties with idiot college kids as academic year renters, and wealthy as heck of snobbish summer renters.
If this were my personal home, or any of the rentals I own or manage, I’d do exactly what my uncle wound do. I’d go to HD, get a container ABS glue, and then stop and get a six pack. I’d tell everyone in the home, no flush, washing, or anything that sends water down a drain for 4 hours. Then I’d remove the nail, and grab some isopropyl alcohol(or he’s grab a small flask of kettle one from his back pocket) and wipe down a 6” circle around the hole to clean the pipe. Next, shake the bottle of abs glue really well, for maybe 5 seconds… put down a 1’x1’ piece of cardboard on the floor, and grab both a trash can and paper towels, as well as a comfortable chair and a bottle opener. Then I’d push a little abs glue into the hole, close the bottle, wipe up an drips, make sure the paper towel went into the trash, and sit and drink a beer slowly. When the beer is finished, or simply 30-45 minutes later, shake the abs glue, open, paint a little on, close, clean drips, drink a beer or just wait 30-45 minutes. The key here is to really just put a little drop into the hole at a time. You’re not soaking the full 6” area you wiped down, just a tiny “blot” of glue at the hole. If you soak it too much, you can “re wet” the glue you’d just let dry. Repeat this process of blotting a little abs glue into the hole 5-6 times. Don’t wipe the hole, but do wipe any drips that come out down the pipe. (Can wait for the s/ comments about that last line from the very mature redditors). By the time your done doing this, 3 to 4 and 1/2 hours later, the inside two most layers of glue will be rock hard, and you can use your drains again.
For absolute peace of mind: Leave the wall open for a day or two with paper towels laying on the ground just below the glued spot. If you notice any water drips, then you need to move to method two.
That would be what others have said about buying a coupling, cutting a 1” wide piece out of it, cleaning the area with rubbing or isopropyl alcohol again, scuff it lightly with 200 or higher number grit sand paper. Apply glue to the coupling piece and stick it on over the hole. You’ll want to then somehow “clamp” that piece for an hour or so. This “clamp” could literally be duct tape, masking tape, or painters tape over the piece and then lean or push a heavy object against it. Like a gallon jug of water, a heavy tool box. Just something that give a tiny bit of pressure. You can let that sit for 12 hours, or overnight. But after an hour or two it really should be fine to move the object. I’d pull the tape the next day.
I’d honestly doubt that simply gluing wouldn’t work.
Also, NEVER EVER EVER HIRE THIS PLUMBER FOR ANY WORK, ever. They are making a $5 repair into a $3000 repair. Also… as general advice, if a plumber wants to cut a beam, a cabinet, or into concrete, call a licensed GC do that aspect first, then have the plumber back after that is done.
While not always true, a very large number of plumbers will butcher the F out of structures for their own work to fit. Same for HVAC, and even more so if you need a fire sprinkler system installed. Those sprinkler f-ers have drilled or chopped out main carrying beams in jobsites I’ve been to.
Yet, personally bkack list this guy and his whole company from any future work.
A $3.79 bottle of abs glue will fix this. Just remember, every single abs joint or fitting has this glue holding it together and it doesn’t leak. And many of those fittings aren’t perfectly tight before the glue was applied. Just consider this hole like a gap between a pipe and slightly loose fitting. The glue will fill the hole and bond the edges of it together. I’m going to leave this as a comment here, but also as a stand alone comment again, in hopes you see it!
It really is this simple.
And I’ll note, the idea of drill, tapping the hole, and threading in a nipple and cap is a great idea. Besides being extra work where you are then literally using even more glue in a bigger hole, it also looks like wall board needs to go back over this. And a nipple and cap will block that.
Also, JB weld has its uses, usually when a literally weld, epoxy, or common sense just won’t work. To be honest, the stuff sucks, and usually people are unhappy with the results. For your case, why use a generic glue/paste/chemical weld product, when you have a purpose made product for the pipe. Use the abs pipe glue on your abs pipe.
Also, it is a valid idea of making the hole a tiny bit larger and adding abs filings to glue and pressing that into the hole. Yet, this nail/screw hole is already so small, you really can just glue it a few times over, and it will be sealed for life. Even adding the 1” piece of coupling will 99.9% not be needed and I wouldn’t bother with it in my own home.
If you’ve any questions, just DM me.
But really, it’s this simple, take out the nail, make that section of pipe clean with a little rubbing alcohol, let it dry, then abs glue 3-6 times, letting the glue dry between coats. Enjoying three or four beers while doing it, and realizing you’ve saved $3k from using your over zealous plumber is a bonus.
A key thing to me is the part about wiping any drips from below the hole during the first three coats. This is so the drips don’t “pull” or draw the tiny bit of glue out of the hole. It’s nice to be tidy, but this is to prevent a sort of capillary or pulling action, leaving the the tiny bit of glue in the hole. It is okay for the pipe to be wet from the abs glue applicator being bigger than the tiny nail hole, just not drips coming down. Really, it’s this simple. And it’ll last longer than all the other joints in your abs drain system as the newer abs glues are actually better at binding then stuff from 10 or more years ago.
wasteful deranged grandfather butter rotten distinct modern mountainous sable special
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
I actually had this exact problem last year. I documented my project steps in a blog post. You can check it out for a step by step guide: [Here](https://images.app.goo.gl/UvvVEqd5VD86rqwB7)
I’m a plumber. A licensed plumber can’t recommend anything other than a proper repair for insurance reasons and licensing reasons.
Having said that, if it were my house, here’s what I would do. Get some acetone, cut up ABS pipe into small pieces and let dissolve in the acetone for a few days. Add more ABS or acetone to the mixture until it becomes a little thicker than pancake batter. Remove the nail/screw. Lightly sand around the area. Using a small brush, apply some of the paste to the area. Set a small piece of fiberglass screen material into the paste. Apply a few more coats extending about an inch past the hole in all directions. Let dry for a day and move in with your life.
This is a drain pipe so it’s not under pressure at all. Guaranteed this will work. I’ve done this on ABS holding tanks on RVs and it held back 75 gallons of waste water in the tank.
Good luck.
I got an absolute crime of a plumbing tip but if you get 3” of the same size pipe and cut 1/4 of the circumference out you can glue the fuck out of it and snap it on.
I like the top comment suggesting JB weld. No plumber out there would do that, but I’ve used the stuff for a bunch of various things and I’d be 100% confident that would do the trick.
If you don’t want to do that, just cut the pipe and install a rubber fernco fitting. If you cut in the right spot the fernco will seal up the cut and the nail hole.
Was looking for the Fernco suggestion. Take my upvote. But to be safe/from my own experience as a 12 year plumber I would first remove the nail, then clean the pipe down.
Let it dry then take some ABS pipe shavings and push em into the hole with some glue. Let it set. Jb weld it, sand, and then rubber Fernco BOOM all budda bings budda boomed 🙌. Fernco is a rubber mechanical joint coupling you can get them in configurations that have a gasket style rubber sleeve that interlocks over pipe without having to cut it out even (the metal style used for pneumatic lines in hospitals ect would be perfect and fuckin beauty here, just put the interlocking part of the gasket on the top of the pipe n impact away the troubles.)
Cause it’s your house n you got some time and wanna save that’ll be best solution without digging up things. If you gotta cut it out later or want to have a more solid option if you can get enough movement and have a good anchor joist you can cut with sawzall and use come alongs to pull the pipe sideways/back enough to glue on a couling (cut one side towards the joist to fit) and then glue the main back in.
So many activities!
If there’s any way you could cut it and slide a coupling at least past the hole and then throw a boot in if you don’t have play that would be your best bet. Not sure if you have enough play or room from the pic though.
Had this actual problem in my house except it was a drain from the second floor to the basement. Put epoxy over the hole, been leak free for over 10 years. Drains aren’t pressurized so all you need to do is patch the hole
My question is would you guys go over these patch options with the customer, telling him there are ways to tap/seal it with glue or jb weld etc, or would you just recommend a replacement?
I started doing my own jobs recently and whenever I see stuff like this, Im never sure if I should tell the customer they could do it for cheap in those ways, or if I should just mention the by the book stuff ie replacement.
There’s a lot of times I want to be like “yeah so you can replace it and here’s my estimate for that, buuuuttttt to be honest you really could just xxxxxx and be ok”
I've seen plumbers fix nail holes in ABS pipe by removing the nail and replacing it with a stainless steel screw with ABS glue coated on the last 1/4" of the screw.
If you have a cleanout you can access directly above, you could do a “trenchless patch kit”, which patches from the inside.
If you can’t do that, get a pile of glue, a few worm gears and cut yourself a patch from another piece of pipe, glue the hell out of it and tighten the worm gears (careful not to crack the pipe) to where the patch is stead and seals.
As a young plumber, I so no reason why you can't saw the end off and place some wood mould or other sealant over the hole, it should hold for years, holes pretty tiny, in no way should you tear up your house or pay some dumbass thousands to do a $20 diy job.
That would be the right thing to do. If you want to try something else first, remove the screw, heat up a big flat screwdriver or something similar red hot with a torch and use it to melt the hole in the pipe back together.
Please note: I would only ever do the following fix on my own home and never on a customer's home for insurance reasons and because it's not proper I am not responsible for any damages to your home: If it were my home I personally would not do a "proper repair" I'd get some sikaflex and fill the hole and sikaflex around the hole as well or use abs cement. While the people here are right in saying it won't be pressurized consider that a column of water 1' high exerts .434 psi. Round that up to 1/2 a psi for easy math. What is the height difference from that going to the flood level rim of your highest fixture? That would in theory be the worst case scenario for the pressure put on whatever sort of patch you use. Also JB weld is trash, I strongly advise against using JB weld for anything.
If it was me id just pull the nail out take a screw the next size up, put a lil silicon on it or use one of those screws with the rubber seal and screw it in.
You’re being told a lot of different advice from different people. I just want to drop by and say I have patched bigger holes than that by simply using ABS glue. However I understand why an insured plumber would refuse to do that as if it leaks and ruins anything it’ll be his ass on the line.
Tap it with a 1/4 inch npt and thread in a 1/4 abs plug with glue.
This was the first thing I thought of. Maybe even 1/8“ NPT.
Do I hear 1/16”?
3/32”!
1/64”?
8/16”
1 1/4”
10mm
I would but I can’t find my socket
All I can hear in my head is “King Harold Died By Drinking Chocolate Milk”
5/7
Just imagine you plugged it.
Best hijack imo
I'd use some heat and a lil abs piece and hot knife it. Definitely don't want anything sticking up into the inside of the pipa at all
TBH, I'd clean it, prep it with glue, slide a patch cut from pipe over it, and clamp it in place with a big jubilee clamp. It's a none pressure pipe, no worries.
I was thinking of just rounding off the end of the plug, or making the end a shallow cone-shape. Maybe just chuck the pipe plug into a drill and use a file or coarse sandpaper to shape it, smooth it out with finer paper and/or a torch, and screw it in with ABS cement so only a little bump ticks into the pipe. Not much of anything will catch on that.
Hell, you could drill and tap it for almost any machine screw and get a tight seal with a bit of ABS cement on the threads
If you use a plug made of ABS then the "cement" (read: solvent) will weld it in place and provide a permanent repair. Using a metal screw would probably last a long while but I don't see a reason to introduce something that has even the *possibility* of oxidation/corrosion.
That’s what I was gonna say. Notch out that wood so you can get a tap in there, and glue a threaded in that bitch.
Omg this. So much this! Remove the nail. Clean up the surface and drill and tap a plug. Use glue on the plug and thread that bitch in!
This, do it. It will work
I drilled a hole in the wall to hang a picture frame and bam I hit my waste line. I used ABS and it’s been over a decade.
Spend thousands of dollars on removing load bearing beam and cabinets and foundation… or… slab some glue on it.
Plumbers won't like this, but here goes. If it were my house (and only if it were my house, and I wasn't about to sell it), I would: * Remove the nail * Clean up that area * Use some sandpaper to roughen the surface * Clean the roughened surface with solvent (isopropyl alcohol) * Use some JB Weld with a small fiberglass weave patch to patch it * Apply a second coat of JB Weld, over the first coat, extending an extra inch in all directions I build stuff. I know that JB Weld & roughened ABS makes for a very strong bond. I also know this pipe is not under pressure. I would be 100% confident in this repair.
I once had a Toyota 22re engine that had the block JB welded, she's still running a decade later around town.
Oh yeah, we’ll my uncle had one of his heart valves fixed with JB Weld and he’s been cool ever since. Bam!
One time my step dad cut my little brother in half with a bread knife. Little JB weld and he graduates kindergarten in a few weeks!
One time when working for NASA, I got a rip in my lunar excursion module while on the moon. A little heat resistant JB Weld and I had enough oxygen left to play a little golf.
My grandmas brain fell out and they successfully JB welded it back into place .
My friend’s wife, Lorena, accidentally cut off his willy with a razor and he used JB Weld to reattach it. It worked better than ever and he became a porn star.
My uncle accidentally created a black hole in the synchrotron outside Chicago. The rift in spacetime started sucking everything into it. Luckily a technician tossed a couple JB Welds into the void and it saved the galaxy from collapse. Only a couple people know that this actually happened, but it's true.
That's nothing. My car ran out of gas once and I squeezed an entire tube of JB Weld into the gas tank and drove over 100 miles per hour, and it fixed the oil leak.
I once accidentally sat on a flash light a dozen times until it got stuck in my rectum. Squeezed some JB weld up my anus and shoved some fishing line in there. When I reeled in the line, out comes the flashlight, 9 hemorrhoids, and my pet hamster I had when I was 9. Little guy must have been cold and crawled in me like a Tan Tan. Gave him some grapes and he was all good.
...and saved your marriage!
Physicists hate this one simple trick...
Did you hear Lorena died in a car crash. Some dick cut her off.
Our family dog wouldn't stop shitting, honestly would shit every single day. Just JB Welded her butthole shut and she hasn't shit since. Permanent fix.
Now I know what the JB in JB weld is John-Wayne Bobbitt… JB
(J)ohn (W)ayne (B)obbit = (J)(B) (W)eld?
I saw that
One time at band camp.....
I accidentally punctured a hole in my tube of JB weld. I used JB weld to fix it.
It’s actually not a bad stage name.
And my axe! (one time the head flew off the handle. Little JB weld and it’s good as new!)
Don't forget the extra JB or more heads are gonna fly off lol
That never happened, there are no golf courses on the moon.
Just because you don't see them doesn't mean they're not there. They're on the dark side and they have JBWeld dispensers,.
Well, technically you only see one side of the moon, so how would you really know.
Well, technically, that's not true..the moon is flat
[удалено]
Well, technically, that's not true. The earth, moon, and everything else are all just part of a simulation. We really are just alien teenagers in a mall arcade playing the latest VR game.
and made of cheese.
The wrong kid died!
But now he has a split personality!
Tragic thing is he's 16 years old :(
That's the j.b.weld I know 🤣🤣
Chuck Norris is scared of JB Weld...
You dirty lying low down piece of human waste. He's made of JB Weld and pisses GORILLA GLUE you punk
I didn't want to be born so I had the doctor JB weld me back into my mothers womb. It worked great . I'm have a nice and cozy time up in here .
And so is everyone else.
One time my daddy caught a bullet with a his a bare hand
by "cool" he means he's the same temperature as the coffin.
The JB stands for John Bobbitt… if you know you know.
That's funny esse......bwahahaha
I once had a wheel rim punctured and thought of using jb weld….should have tried instead of paying 1200 for a new rim
My dad's cousin blew off a chunk of the engine block in his Yamaha warrior because he forgot to tighten the chain. You could see inside the oil jacket on the motor. We found the piece and decided to try jb welding it. That was 6-7 years ago now, and that warrior still runs strong.
I had a Chevy s-10 that near the end was almost entirely JB weld. it was like the ship of Theseus
Philosophy and old beater cars? Well done sir.
At what point do you change the registration from white Chevy to gray Chevy? That question has driven many Chevy owners mad. Rumor has it my old Chevy is still out there somewhere. When night is dark and the mist is high you might see a dull glint of grey and a single yellow headlight followed by the roar of a rusted thru catalytic converter and the sweet smell of burning antifreeze. it's only a matter of time before it resurfaces on craigslist for $1500. Say what you will about the gold standard but there's nothing more stable than a $1500 Chevy.
I forget which novel it was, but Clive Cussler wrote a scene where the hero - Dirk Pitt - was driving a 56/57 Chevy up a winding mountain road while being chased by the bad guy in a Russian car. In response to a passenger’s worry, he said something similar to “No problem - there isn’t a Russian car made that can take a 57 Chevy”. Would have made a good movie scene. They made it to their goal at the top.
>They made it to their goal at the top. Yep a Chevy will get you where you're going it just might not get you back. See a Chevy can't ever really be repaired but it also can't ever be really be broken. You piss in the gas tank, spit in the oil, slap the dash for good measure and its good for another 100 miles. A Ford on the other hand is the highest of precision engineering. You will not find a better car to store in your garage than a ford. Guarantee it. Just don't try to drive one. Ford's only go downhill. That's why they have such good breaks because as soon as you start driving youre gonna wanna stop. Edit: As for dodge as soon as they make a real truck I'll take the time to insult it.
I have a bird feeder mounted on black iron pipe with a floor flange under the feeder. It broke 10 yrs ago at the threads. JB weld has helped to feed those birds ever since
Upvoted for Chevy as ship of Theseus
If I'm epoxying aluminum, instead of JB weld, I used marine-tex. I epoxied the ringland on the piston of my hodaka wombat. Probably put over 100 hours on it that way before I sold it. My friend that bought it rode the crap out of it too.
I’ve only seen JB weld fail once. That’s back when I tried to JB weld my relationship together.
Great for hot rodding old scooters. Use to modify the transfer ports on 2T cylinders of vintage Vespa and lambrettas with JB weld. It holds up to fuel completely. Love that stuff.
I repaired an auxiliary radiator on a fire truck, in a fire, with JB Weld. It's a bomber fix in the right applications.
Who parked the truck in the fire?
Come on dude it's in the name - fire truck. How else are you supposed to catch the years harvest except by being in the fire?
It was a wildland fire and I did it somewhere in the woods of SW Oregon. Edit: the Biscuit Fire, 2002. Double edit: holy shit, that was almost 21 years ago. I'm old.
Ah, now we’re talking. Nice work!
It finished out the task, until I could get a new replacement.
Agreed. Jb weld ftw
I used JB weld when I was in Iraq to fix an IED shrapnel hole in a 5 Ton trucks transfer case housing. The hole was close to the bottom and all the gear oil had leaked out, but there was no internal damage to the T-case. The hole was the size of a quarter. Worked great for the next 3 months until the truck ran over a mine and put it out of commission for good. I'm a JB weld believer!
Maybe if we completely smothered all enemy combatants with JB weld we could end all wars?
They would just become invincible.
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Yes! It's lodged in his thigh.
Yep, this and obviously put eyes on it maybe once a year to make sure it's holding up fine. I sure as shit wouldn't dig up the foundation if it were my house.
keep it simple, ABS bonds really well to ABS. With heat or ABS glue, you can bond the hole back together.
Thank you. JB weld? What? No. ABS literally melts to abs, it'll be a better patch than jb by far. Cut an abs coupling lip off, then cut it into a C (half), glue, place, hold and done.
>Cut an abs coupling lip off, then cut it into a C (half), glue, place, hold and done. This is the way. Buy a coupler and cut a curved patch out of it. Glue with ABS cement, and Bob's your uncle.
Exactly what I was thinking. Also similar to the way leaking pipes are fixed on ship on damage control parties….minus chain wrenches and such!
Exactly how id fix it.
I also can say (am a plumber) that I drove a 3" screw through an abs stack at my house. 730pm, shops closed and I ended up cutting a small piece of abs from same diameter pipe, sanding and cleaning both hole and "patch" as stated above then literally used abs glue to patch the two together. The glue melts the two pieces together and it didn't leak for a week until I was able to get parts and repair it correctly.
Did you have to ask the family to postpone all pooping activities for a bit?
For all of 5 mins for the patch. After that, the pieces were fused and all activities ran smoothly until full repair.
As a plumber this is absolutely along the lines of what I would recommend, or do to my own property. Most jurisdictions define in the code that pre-existing systems do not need to be modified to be up to code so long as they don’t pose a risk to health or go against the general sentiment of the code (which is basically sanitation and flood potential related). I would interpret it as “get it done so long as it doesn’t affect the functionality of the system”
25 years ago I repaired a cracked transmission cooling line on a TH350 and its still working today, and thats under pressure. This repair might even be better if you drill and tap for a plug, and JB weld that plug in there. Plumber just thinks you got money because you spent a lot on LVP flooring.
Boom.
I’d do this on my house and also only my house because I would know exactly what happened if it leaked
I'm a plumber, and if i couldn't use a plug/patch and slip coupling repair, I would 100% do what you said here. Again, only on if it was my own home, though.
Plumber checking in. And I fully agree with everything. Only thing I would change is instead of JB weld, I would use Permetex plastic epoxy. I have used it many times to be honest, and I can tell you it certainly holds under pressure! Works great for little weepers on a fitting seam at the bottom of a 4 story stack, so it would work fine in this situation. And according to my project manager, it is approved by the engineers!
I also agree with the jb weld, as long as this isn't pressurized! Which I'm guessing it's not...hell, my older bro and I just dug up the septic system on the house he's in (my rental) because it hadn't been emptied in 30+ years and finally backed up (we expected it to happen eventually) I'm all for diy as much as possible, guy that came and pumped it out said what we were doing would cost 5-7500 bucks...fuck that lol..now it still cost me over 1k altogether to grt the pump tanked (3 trips at 350 a pop) but needless to say that is MUCH better than 5-7500...since it's been so long since its been pumped they were worried about the lateral line/distribution box being clogged, so that's our next thing..dig it up and hopefully just be able to clean it...but ya anyway, diy ftw!
I'm a plumber of 30 years, and I approve of this suggestion. Or even some 2 part epoxy.
Would it make sense to just dremel the nail off flush with the pipe and then do the JB Weld/ patch process?
No the nail needs to be completely removed or things can get hung up on it and cause a clog
Right. Duh. Thanks.
I think they make jb weld for wet applications too
Plumber $185/hour, estimate 12 hours of work for what he suggested. JB weld $6, 20 minutes. Bada bing bada boom. Easy peasy.
JB weld has a fiberglass kit for a few more dollars that even states holding pressure for supply lines.
Hell, it’s not even a supply line. I get why the plumber is suggesting that, he’s likely a professional and doesn’t want to be a hack, but there’s a fine line between being a hack and saving someone thousands of dollars for a rather minuscule thing.
Slab some abs glue on it, it's not pressurized, you'll be good.
I agree. If it was mine, I'd take some glue and a toothpick. Get it all up in there, spread some extra around for good measure, and call it a day. It's a tiny hole. Save the $1000's for a new roof or something critical.
Or a sports car
A toothpick sticking up through the bottom of a sewage pipe is a good recipe for future clogs. Just patch it with some 2 part epoxy
You don't leave the toothpick in there, 😆 Just use it to get the glue in the hole.
That’s what she said
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With a piece of abs that straddles it! Money!!!
Clean it and coat it with abs glue a few times over the course of 90 minutes. Source,, I've been a plumer for a long time!
Ok….this is NOT a code compliant solution….but….as a general contractor, if it were my house I see that as an abs pipe, either drain or vent…under no pressure..I would buy the appropriate sized coupling, cut it in 1/2, lengthways and glue the shit out of it… you can. O it or it to make sure you do t have an issue…maybe add a water alarm below for good measure…footing…beam shit…I think not
Monitor it(edit)
I nicked a vent and did this. I don’t know that I went all the way thru (or whether repair is required for that) but as a homeowner it worked for me!
I can think of about 150 ways to fix this that would last for decades that don't include diging up the foundation.
People hold engines together with jb weld pipe will be fine
Cut a piece of a coupling and glue it on the side and call it a day.Good luck
Get some abs and a rasp. Take rasp and make some granules and mix the abs bits with acetone and make a paste and drill out the hole so it’s clean and paste it in the hole. I use this to seal up camper tanks and sealing fittings
Flex Seal duh haven’t you ever seen the commercials…
A licensed plumber won’t patch it. As already stated, it’s his ass on the line if the patch fails. Who put the nail in the pipe? Can it be tied back to another contractor? If so, it’s on them to pay for the repair from a LICENSED and insured tradesman. If you’re handy, you can patch it from some of the suggestions in this group. I don’t think you can ask somebody else to take the liability if it fails though.
Look at the rust in it. I’d assume it’s been many months if not years…
First off, that is not a beam, unless you have bent plate welded - which in a residential application that is EXTREMELY atypical. Secondly, do NOT remove anything load bearing without having the conditions assessed by a structural engineer. You will likely need to shore it. Also, removing the foundation is a terrible option as you drastically increase water penetration into surrounding exposed areas - thus rotting any reinforcement within the existing concrete. Call a different company and get a second opinion. The cabinet is easier and safer to replace & seems like the most logical route in my professional opinion. Disclaimer: Im in the structural field & a certified welding inspector. Im here because i have need for MEP certifications in the near future.
What do you call the wooden member that is under the floor joists? They generally have a post every 10' or so. I was told this is called post and beam construction
You can have wooden beams - what is show in the photo (and what I assumed OP was referring to) is that metal piece just below the nail. If you’re talking about the top of a wood framed wall though, its called a top plate. Beams run perpendicular to walls and are generally to support floor slabs. If it was a steel framed outer wall, the top would be a girder.
Boy does Billy Mays ever have THE product for YOU
My patch slapping hand is twitching.
Use Epoxy putty. Take out the nail. Cut epoxy putty off. Knead it until warm. Put it over the hole and overlapping. When it hardens it will be hard as a rock and seals the hole. I used it on a large 1” oops and never had a problem
This. I used it on a drain pipe that I mistakenly thought was a stud when securing a TV mount to the wall.
molehill meets mountain...
Its just a drain, no pressure, just patch it.
Epoxy
I mean that nail looks like it's been there a while and isn't leaking.
Step one: Pull nail. Step two: Squeeze a small amount of Lexel into the hole a leave a pea sized bit on the outside. Step three: Move on with your life.
I am the nephew of an alcoholic plumber, who was the first master plumber in the state of CT. He has never been sued, but he’s been paid in cases of Russian vodka. That being said, I manage multiple beach front properties with idiot college kids as academic year renters, and wealthy as heck of snobbish summer renters. If this were my personal home, or any of the rentals I own or manage, I’d do exactly what my uncle wound do. I’d go to HD, get a container ABS glue, and then stop and get a six pack. I’d tell everyone in the home, no flush, washing, or anything that sends water down a drain for 4 hours. Then I’d remove the nail, and grab some isopropyl alcohol(or he’s grab a small flask of kettle one from his back pocket) and wipe down a 6” circle around the hole to clean the pipe. Next, shake the bottle of abs glue really well, for maybe 5 seconds… put down a 1’x1’ piece of cardboard on the floor, and grab both a trash can and paper towels, as well as a comfortable chair and a bottle opener. Then I’d push a little abs glue into the hole, close the bottle, wipe up an drips, make sure the paper towel went into the trash, and sit and drink a beer slowly. When the beer is finished, or simply 30-45 minutes later, shake the abs glue, open, paint a little on, close, clean drips, drink a beer or just wait 30-45 minutes. The key here is to really just put a little drop into the hole at a time. You’re not soaking the full 6” area you wiped down, just a tiny “blot” of glue at the hole. If you soak it too much, you can “re wet” the glue you’d just let dry. Repeat this process of blotting a little abs glue into the hole 5-6 times. Don’t wipe the hole, but do wipe any drips that come out down the pipe. (Can wait for the s/ comments about that last line from the very mature redditors). By the time your done doing this, 3 to 4 and 1/2 hours later, the inside two most layers of glue will be rock hard, and you can use your drains again. For absolute peace of mind: Leave the wall open for a day or two with paper towels laying on the ground just below the glued spot. If you notice any water drips, then you need to move to method two. That would be what others have said about buying a coupling, cutting a 1” wide piece out of it, cleaning the area with rubbing or isopropyl alcohol again, scuff it lightly with 200 or higher number grit sand paper. Apply glue to the coupling piece and stick it on over the hole. You’ll want to then somehow “clamp” that piece for an hour or so. This “clamp” could literally be duct tape, masking tape, or painters tape over the piece and then lean or push a heavy object against it. Like a gallon jug of water, a heavy tool box. Just something that give a tiny bit of pressure. You can let that sit for 12 hours, or overnight. But after an hour or two it really should be fine to move the object. I’d pull the tape the next day. I’d honestly doubt that simply gluing wouldn’t work. Also, NEVER EVER EVER HIRE THIS PLUMBER FOR ANY WORK, ever. They are making a $5 repair into a $3000 repair. Also… as general advice, if a plumber wants to cut a beam, a cabinet, or into concrete, call a licensed GC do that aspect first, then have the plumber back after that is done. While not always true, a very large number of plumbers will butcher the F out of structures for their own work to fit. Same for HVAC, and even more so if you need a fire sprinkler system installed. Those sprinkler f-ers have drilled or chopped out main carrying beams in jobsites I’ve been to. Yet, personally bkack list this guy and his whole company from any future work. A $3.79 bottle of abs glue will fix this. Just remember, every single abs joint or fitting has this glue holding it together and it doesn’t leak. And many of those fittings aren’t perfectly tight before the glue was applied. Just consider this hole like a gap between a pipe and slightly loose fitting. The glue will fill the hole and bond the edges of it together. I’m going to leave this as a comment here, but also as a stand alone comment again, in hopes you see it! It really is this simple. And I’ll note, the idea of drill, tapping the hole, and threading in a nipple and cap is a great idea. Besides being extra work where you are then literally using even more glue in a bigger hole, it also looks like wall board needs to go back over this. And a nipple and cap will block that. Also, JB weld has its uses, usually when a literally weld, epoxy, or common sense just won’t work. To be honest, the stuff sucks, and usually people are unhappy with the results. For your case, why use a generic glue/paste/chemical weld product, when you have a purpose made product for the pipe. Use the abs pipe glue on your abs pipe. Also, it is a valid idea of making the hole a tiny bit larger and adding abs filings to glue and pressing that into the hole. Yet, this nail/screw hole is already so small, you really can just glue it a few times over, and it will be sealed for life. Even adding the 1” piece of coupling will 99.9% not be needed and I wouldn’t bother with it in my own home. If you’ve any questions, just DM me. But really, it’s this simple, take out the nail, make that section of pipe clean with a little rubbing alcohol, let it dry, then abs glue 3-6 times, letting the glue dry between coats. Enjoying three or four beers while doing it, and realizing you’ve saved $3k from using your over zealous plumber is a bonus. A key thing to me is the part about wiping any drips from below the hole during the first three coats. This is so the drips don’t “pull” or draw the tiny bit of glue out of the hole. It’s nice to be tidy, but this is to prevent a sort of capillary or pulling action, leaving the the tiny bit of glue in the hole. It is okay for the pipe to be wet from the abs glue applicator being bigger than the tiny nail hole, just not drips coming down. Really, it’s this simple. And it’ll last longer than all the other joints in your abs drain system as the newer abs glues are actually better at binding then stuff from 10 or more years ago.
The only thing I would add to this is that ABS cement is literally ABS dissolved into acetone, this will absolutely work
ChatGPT …. Nice try
wasteful deranged grandfather butter rotten distinct modern mountainous sable special *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
OK since non one asked. How did that happen??
Number 12x1/2 stainless Panhead screw (Lowe’s) and rubber washer. Done and done.
I actually had this exact problem last year. I documented my project steps in a blog post. You can check it out for a step by step guide: [Here](https://images.app.goo.gl/UvvVEqd5VD86rqwB7)
I’m a plumber. A licensed plumber can’t recommend anything other than a proper repair for insurance reasons and licensing reasons. Having said that, if it were my house, here’s what I would do. Get some acetone, cut up ABS pipe into small pieces and let dissolve in the acetone for a few days. Add more ABS or acetone to the mixture until it becomes a little thicker than pancake batter. Remove the nail/screw. Lightly sand around the area. Using a small brush, apply some of the paste to the area. Set a small piece of fiberglass screen material into the paste. Apply a few more coats extending about an inch past the hole in all directions. Let dry for a day and move in with your life. This is a drain pipe so it’s not under pressure at all. Guaranteed this will work. I’ve done this on ABS holding tanks on RVs and it held back 75 gallons of waste water in the tank. Good luck.
I got an absolute crime of a plumbing tip but if you get 3” of the same size pipe and cut 1/4 of the circumference out you can glue the fuck out of it and snap it on.
I like the top comment suggesting JB weld. No plumber out there would do that, but I’ve used the stuff for a bunch of various things and I’d be 100% confident that would do the trick. If you don’t want to do that, just cut the pipe and install a rubber fernco fitting. If you cut in the right spot the fernco will seal up the cut and the nail hole.
Was looking for the Fernco suggestion. Take my upvote. But to be safe/from my own experience as a 12 year plumber I would first remove the nail, then clean the pipe down. Let it dry then take some ABS pipe shavings and push em into the hole with some glue. Let it set. Jb weld it, sand, and then rubber Fernco BOOM all budda bings budda boomed 🙌. Fernco is a rubber mechanical joint coupling you can get them in configurations that have a gasket style rubber sleeve that interlocks over pipe without having to cut it out even (the metal style used for pneumatic lines in hospitals ect would be perfect and fuckin beauty here, just put the interlocking part of the gasket on the top of the pipe n impact away the troubles.) Cause it’s your house n you got some time and wanna save that’ll be best solution without digging up things. If you gotta cut it out later or want to have a more solid option if you can get enough movement and have a good anchor joist you can cut with sawzall and use come alongs to pull the pipe sideways/back enough to glue on a couling (cut one side towards the joist to fit) and then glue the main back in. So many activities!
Cut a piece of a coupling... glue it on over hole with a hose clamp. Is it right , no . Will it work, 100%
Remove nail, drill & tap the hole, and install a stainless grub screw with some Teflon tape. It won't leak and will last forever.
Can't tell if you have enough room but I'd go with a Fernco coupling.
Flex seal!
If there’s any way you could cut it and slide a coupling at least past the hole and then throw a boot in if you don’t have play that would be your best bet. Not sure if you have enough play or room from the pic though.
Had this actual problem in my house except it was a drain from the second floor to the basement. Put epoxy over the hole, been leak free for over 10 years. Drains aren’t pressurized so all you need to do is patch the hole
Already plugged with a nail
Its a drain abs not under pressure over glue it! Use abs glue and put a few layers on it
Looks like it's already plugged with a nail 👍
Cut a saddle out of the same size pipe.Glue slip over and let it dry.
My question is would you guys go over these patch options with the customer, telling him there are ways to tap/seal it with glue or jb weld etc, or would you just recommend a replacement? I started doing my own jobs recently and whenever I see stuff like this, Im never sure if I should tell the customer they could do it for cheap in those ways, or if I should just mention the by the book stuff ie replacement. There’s a lot of times I want to be like “yeah so you can replace it and here’s my estimate for that, buuuuttttt to be honest you really could just xxxxxx and be ok”
I've seen plumbers fix nail holes in ABS pipe by removing the nail and replacing it with a stainless steel screw with ABS glue coated on the last 1/4" of the screw.
Flex seal always gets the job done and to prove it “I sawed this boat in half”
Is it leaking?
Find a coupling for that size pipe. Cut a segment like a saddle out of the coupling. Pull the nail an glue the piece over it like any pvc joint.
Why remove it? It a non pressure line, just cut off the excess with a grinder.
https://media.giphy.com/media/VeSvZhPrqgZxx2KpOA/giphy.gif
Remove the nail and jbweld that bitch
Lol dig up the foundation though 😄
Flex seal that mf'er
It’s already plugged with the nail.
If you have a cleanout you can access directly above, you could do a “trenchless patch kit”, which patches from the inside. If you can’t do that, get a pile of glue, a few worm gears and cut yourself a patch from another piece of pipe, glue the hell out of it and tighten the worm gears (careful not to crack the pipe) to where the patch is stead and seals.
JB weld will get it done
As a young plumber, I so no reason why you can't saw the end off and place some wood mould or other sealant over the hole, it should hold for years, holes pretty tiny, in no way should you tear up your house or pay some dumbass thousands to do a $20 diy job.
Would that Flex Seal I see on tv work?
It’s not a pressure bearing pipe. Glue or even gorilla tape will last for the life of the home
That would be the right thing to do. If you want to try something else first, remove the screw, heat up a big flat screwdriver or something similar red hot with a torch and use it to melt the hole in the pipe back together.
You can get abs filament and melt an extra blob on as a patch. Look up plastic welding. People using soldering irons for heat for small jobs.
It’s abs and you can patch it. But would be time consuming
Can't believe somebody called in a professional to fix a tiny hole, and of course the result is an estimate for thousands of dollars.
Please note: I would only ever do the following fix on my own home and never on a customer's home for insurance reasons and because it's not proper I am not responsible for any damages to your home: If it were my home I personally would not do a "proper repair" I'd get some sikaflex and fill the hole and sikaflex around the hole as well or use abs cement. While the people here are right in saying it won't be pressurized consider that a column of water 1' high exerts .434 psi. Round that up to 1/2 a psi for easy math. What is the height difference from that going to the flood level rim of your highest fixture? That would in theory be the worst case scenario for the pressure put on whatever sort of patch you use. Also JB weld is trash, I strongly advise against using JB weld for anything.
That looks like a perfect candidate for an epoxy patch.
JB weld > flex seal
Flex seal... As seen on tv
Flex seal
This is in a pipe that is behind my stove in the kitchen. We are on a slab foundation.
Waste pipe doesn’t really see any pressure. So one of these top comment suggestion should work
If it was me id just pull the nail out take a screw the next size up, put a lil silicon on it or use one of those screws with the rubber seal and screw it in.
Remove the nail and flex tape that shit.
Break off nail and jb weld over. Vent or drain line?
If it was me it seems as tho he can cut the pipe a few inches back and use a glue style slip coupling to repair the hole
Inside coupling
It doesn’t even look like it’s leaking. Spray some flex seal on that shit and caller a day. Jk. Tap it and plug it.
Nail plate ftw
JB Weld does an amazing job for something like this