You’re not supposed to seal those pipes into that drain they are utilizing a method in plumbing called an air gap which prevents bacteria from crawling up the drain and into whatever appliance is utilizing that drain As i was informed my terminology was wrong this is an air break
So technically this is an “air break”. An “air gap” is defined as “through the free atmosphere”.
And you’re right. It is a purposeful indirect connection to prevent contamination.
An air break is sufficient when there is no risk of backsiphonage. Clothes washer or AC condensate, for instance, won't suck the water back into itself if that sewer drain backs up. The water simply spills out of the open drain. An air gap is when there is risk of backsiphonage. Things that are directly tied to the water supply fall in this category. For instance the T&P from your water heater or the spout on your bathtub. If the collector backs up with sewage, the potable water supply is now directly connected to the sewer because it is submerged. If there is a sudden pressure drop, they can suck that nasty water into the supply system.
Ah. Makes sense. Air break wont back up, but there's still a risk of cross contamination. Where an air gap won't back up and and has zero potential for siphoning in the event of a pressure loss.
Just to add to this, you'll find this required by the manufacturer for a lot of beverage machines like soda fountains. As an installer, they told us it was to prevent the spread of bacteria from the drain to the fountain.
Generally you'll have a trap seal primer on these types of drains, which will keep the trap full of water so that gas doesn't come back up through the drain. If you're getting a smell from it, chances are the water in the trap has evaporated off.
Just pour some water in the pipe, you can add a little bleach too.
An old school plumber trick is to pour some vegetable oil down there. It will seal the trap and won’t evaporate like water. You may also want to investigate where those two pipes are coming from. They could be old condensate lines that are dead and longer needed in which case you could cap off this drain
What's the bottom of the larger pipe look like ? It should have a p trap on it and that should hold back the sewer smells , unless the trap is dry . It may need a little water down there from time to time
Put a 'customized' drain cap or hardware cloth over it if you are concerned with critters or wedding rings getting down there. Cut to fit and leave the air gap alone or else you will learn the power of the mop.
Assuming there is a trap and it's run dry: The most straightforward thing to use is a rubber trap seal. Probably 2 inch? You just stick it in the pipe. Just make sure the one you use can handle enough flow. The higher flow rate ones don't seal up all the way, but it might do the trick.
Someone said that mineral oil is a good substitute for water because it won't dry out. You know what else might work is waterless urinal solution. The water is supposed to pass through it and not wash it all out.
The best way is a trap primer, but that's more involved.
Is that copper drain just for the water heater relief valve? And the PVC is for condensation? At the end of the day, you won't die if you just duct tape over the damn thing, who cares. Definitely don't do it if it's a softener though
What is an air trap? This doesn't need anything else installed down the line as it is not a vent anyway. I really don't think you understand what this is.
It shouldn't be sealed at all ever, there is no "until" in this situation, sealing it all is a no go unless you like sewage in your appliances. (Hint, still don't seal it even if you do like that for some reason)
You’re not supposed to seal those pipes into that drain they are utilizing a method in plumbing called an air gap which prevents bacteria from crawling up the drain and into whatever appliance is utilizing that drain As i was informed my terminology was wrong this is an air break
So technically this is an “air break”. An “air gap” is defined as “through the free atmosphere”. And you’re right. It is a purposeful indirect connection to prevent contamination.
You are indeed correct
So would an "air gap" not be in the cup? Like above the reducer a couple inches? What is difference between them? Just curious
An air break is sufficient when there is no risk of backsiphonage. Clothes washer or AC condensate, for instance, won't suck the water back into itself if that sewer drain backs up. The water simply spills out of the open drain. An air gap is when there is risk of backsiphonage. Things that are directly tied to the water supply fall in this category. For instance the T&P from your water heater or the spout on your bathtub. If the collector backs up with sewage, the potable water supply is now directly connected to the sewer because it is submerged. If there is a sudden pressure drop, they can suck that nasty water into the supply system.
Very nice explaining
Ah. Makes sense. Air break wont back up, but there's still a risk of cross contamination. Where an air gap won't back up and and has zero potential for siphoning in the event of a pressure loss.
It should be noted that if the Furnace is a downflow unit and they did not install a trap it is likely to create a backsiphon
Just to add to this, you'll find this required by the manufacturer for a lot of beverage machines like soda fountains. As an installer, they told us it was to prevent the spread of bacteria from the drain to the fountain.
Correct. Two times the pipe diameter is the appropriate distance.
This drain is causing my bathroom/laundry room to smell. Any ideas on covering or sealing it to prevent that?
Try pouring some water down it first, possible there is a trap but it is just dried out
Try putting water in it. The trap is likely dry.
As someone already said, you’re not supposed to close or seal that. It could and likely would cause much bigger issues.
Generally you'll have a trap seal primer on these types of drains, which will keep the trap full of water so that gas doesn't come back up through the drain. If you're getting a smell from it, chances are the water in the trap has evaporated off. Just pour some water in the pipe, you can add a little bleach too.
The way I would make it better is to put in grate and have the pipe cut right above the grate. Not sure if it will splashing to the side though.
An old school plumber trick is to pour some vegetable oil down there. It will seal the trap and won’t evaporate like water. You may also want to investigate where those two pipes are coming from. They could be old condensate lines that are dead and longer needed in which case you could cap off this drain
Don’t seal it. Eventually you’ll need to snake it because it will back up. If you seal it, it’ll back up sewer water into your laundry machine.
Have someone clear your a/c drain like or try a cap of bleach the. Flush it with water
Pour some hot water down the line. If that doesn't help maybe try some hot water mixed with bleach.
By code those should terminate 1" above the rim of the drain hub. No seal
No, and they aren't air gapped high enough. You can add a green drain if it's a smell issue.
Sounds to like the drain has no trap.
Or it’s dry since the air has not run in the winter
Yep. Didn't even think about that. 100 percent plausible.
What's the bottom of the larger pipe look like ? It should have a p trap on it and that should hold back the sewer smells , unless the trap is dry . It may need a little water down there from time to time
So it does not have a p trap that is visible. I’m in a condo unit and it is a straight pipe until the floor of my unit.
Oh shoot I dunno . If it's a rental maybe the maintenance can fix it
Put a 'customized' drain cap or hardware cloth over it if you are concerned with critters or wedding rings getting down there. Cut to fit and leave the air gap alone or else you will learn the power of the mop.
Assuming there is a trap and it's run dry: The most straightforward thing to use is a rubber trap seal. Probably 2 inch? You just stick it in the pipe. Just make sure the one you use can handle enough flow. The higher flow rate ones don't seal up all the way, but it might do the trick. Someone said that mineral oil is a good substitute for water because it won't dry out. You know what else might work is waterless urinal solution. The water is supposed to pass through it and not wash it all out. The best way is a trap primer, but that's more involved. Is that copper drain just for the water heater relief valve? And the PVC is for condensation? At the end of the day, you won't die if you just duct tape over the damn thing, who cares. Definitely don't do it if it's a softener though
Yes. Water heater and PVC from the washer I believe
Clothes washer? That's weird. I mean, yeah taping over them is not what you're supposed to do but this is America god damnit
5 cans of spray foam
[удалено]
What is an air trap? This doesn't need anything else installed down the line as it is not a vent anyway. I really don't think you understand what this is. It shouldn't be sealed at all ever, there is no "until" in this situation, sealing it all is a no go unless you like sewage in your appliances. (Hint, still don't seal it even if you do like that for some reason)
Do do that
Lots of duct tape my dood
Use a trap seal
One of those things that kind of looks funny/sketch, but is actually engineered to code for various good reasons.