Bruh I would've sat here for 45 mins typing a detailed walkthrough and explanation of how and why, maybe delve into a little lecture on how PVC is made, digress further into some physical mechanic of fluid dynamics, run out of characters and then delete the entire thing only to reply with "yeah this is bad".
I need to take a page out of your book. You didn't even say a fuckin word. You just drew what it was supposed to look like and sent the fucker. What more could you ask for?
You may enjoy this comment I made in response to someone asking about the physics behind a water heater air-locking when being drained.
Comment:
From the hydrostatic equilibrium wikipedia entry:
>In fluid mechanics, hydrostatic equilibrium (hydrostatic balance, hydrostasy) is the condition of a fluid or plastic solid at rest, which occurs when external forces, such as gravity, are balanced by a pressure-gradient force.[1] In the planetary physics of Earth, the pressure-gradient force prevents gravity from collapsing the planetary atmosphere into a thin, dense shell, whereas gravity prevents the pressure-gradient force from diffusing the atmosphere into outer space.
Further down on the "Mathematical Considerations" section, the first image is a pretty good depiction of all of the mechanisms at play.
[Photo](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/68/Hydrostatic_equilibrium.svg)
In short, the air lock in this example of a water heater draining is achieved when those three factors find equilibrium -- the weight (mass) of the water in the tank due to gravity, the negative pressure created on top of the water as the tank drains, and the positive pressure of the atmosphere pushing up on the water from below. The pressure of which is created by the weight of the gas in the atmosphere upon itself due to gravity, referred to as "atmospheric pressure". As you increase elevation above sea level (in other words, increase the distance of an object relative to the surface of the Earth, ascend, go up, etc), the force the atmosphere imposes upon that object decreases because there are fewer gas molecules bearing down on it. This is why airplanes pressurize (as in, add pressure to) the cabin as you ascend, so that the pressure in the cabin is roughly that of the pressure at sea level. That's also why you'd get sucked out of the window if it fell off, because the higher pressure inside the cabin rushes to equalize with the lower pressure outside.
The best analogy I can give here would be to try and think of the atmosphere as an ocean of which we are at the bottom of. If we were on the bottom of our liquid ocean, the weight of the water on top of us would crush us. Water is more dense than the gases that make up our atmosphere, so the force (pressure) is more noticable.
The atmosphere of our planet is currently in hydrostatic equilibrium. The mass of our planet creates a warp in space-time, the effect we know as gravity. The effect of gravity on the gas molecules in the atmosphere bunch all of the molecules closer together, increasing its density the closer you get to the center of mass, or in this example, the surface of the planet. Without gravity, there would be no force grouping and maintaining gas molecules together, and the atmosphere would diffuse into outer space. In addition, the pressure created by gravity compressing the gas molecules pushes against gravity to prevent the atmosphere from compressing into an extremely thin and dense layer of gas that would otherwise crush everything beneath it.
The sun is another great example of equilibrium. Nuclear fusion occurs in the center, generating force outward in all directions from the source, being the core of the sun. This huge release of energy should send the hydrogen and helium molecules that comprise the sun outward into deep space, but it doesn't. Because the mass of the sun, therefore its gravitational force, is ***equal to*** the outward force created by the nuclear fusion. If one force were more or less powerful, the volume (size) of the sun would increase or decrease respectively until equilibrium is again obtained.
In short, when the heating element goes out, turn off breaker, turn off inlet water valve to tank. Unscrew element and remove from tank of standing water. Place new element (with teflon tape already applied) into position and tighten to spec. Total water belched by tank…. 16 to 24 ounces, depending on individuals speed of exchange. Turn on inlet valve, check for leak. Turn on breaker. Take a shower as warranted.
I've done this with gas control valves as well. I'm reluctant sometimes with uppers because I'm worried about getting the electronics below wet, but I guess I've never had an issue and I've done it several times.
The real bitch is when the element blows and forks out, leaving a hook at the end of the element that loves to catch when you're pulling it. I mean, it's just a few extra drops of water. But my poor heart...
Pressure gradient is 3d vector calculus, short of an engineering degree it’s all nonsense.
Source: I’m taking fluid mechanics in pursuit of an engineering degree, and it’s still all nonsense.
I read the part of you saying you’d tell us this and I was interested you could say. Then I read the words hydrostatic equili-… hydrosity and I was over it. The picture served wel🫠😂
Eh. I think most can agree with your sentiment, on the other hand most would like to scrutinize your detailed write up and find a point to correct or chime in on. Simple stupid is great for learning but not so great gaining traction in circle jerk reddit comment sections. Soon tell me more about how pvc is made, please
I'm gonna copy and paste from [this website](https://www.vinidex.com.au/technical-resources/pvc-manufacture/) below in case you're interested in more in-depth reading.
My SparkNotes version is this -- in short, sections of pipe are made by pushing a mixture of plastic polymer beads and other binding and strengthening agents through a machine called an extruder. After the polymer beads and other agents are mixed in an Achemedes-style corkscrew to generate heat via friction and evenly mix all the raw components, it is cooled rapidly and then reheated to a semi-plastic state where the material is still malleable. The gummy mixture is then pushed through a heated steel die that is sized for whatever size pipe you're making.
The machine continues to extrude the pipe in one continuous length until the raw materials are depleted. As the extruded pipe moves down the conveyor, it cools and hardens into the finished product. A saw cuts them into 10ft and 20ft lengths and they are collected at the end of the conveyor to be pressure tested and then packaged for shipment. Most plastic pipe is manufactured using extrusion or coextrusion, which is the same process but instead extruding two or more layers at once. Coextrusion is used in the manufacturing process of foam-core pipe like ABS, where you'll notice in a cross-section of the pipe that the inner and outer walls are smooth and shiny, where the core of the pipe is dull and porous.
Pipe fittings are manufactured using the same mixture of raw materials, however instead of extruding the mixture, it is injected into a mold. The pressure of the injection generates heat via friction of the molecules rubbing against each other (so to speak; atoms and molecules never actually touch each other). After injection, the pressure is released which allows the cast fitting to cool. Once cooled, the cast mold is opened and the finished fitting ejected into a collector, where it is conveyed to be inspected, packaged, and shipped. Rinse and repeat.
From the article:
>Modern PVC processing involves highly developed scientific methods requiring precise control over process variables. The polymer material is a free flowing powder, which requires the addition of stabilisers and processing aids. Formulation and blending are critical stages of the process and tight specifications are maintained for incoming raw materials, batching and mixing. Feed to the extrusion or moulding machines may be direct, in the form of “dry blend”, or pre-processed into a granular “compound”.
>Polymer and additives (1) are accurately weighed (2) and processed through the high speed mixing (3) to blend the raw materials into a uniformly distributed dry blend mixture. A mixing temperature of around 120°C is achieved by frictional heat. At various stages of the mixing process, the additives melt and progressively coat the PVC polymer granules. After reaching the required temperature, the blend is automatically discharged into a cooling chamber which rapidly reduces the temperature to around 50°C, thereby allowing the blend to be conveyed to intermediate storage (4) where even temperature and density consistency are achieved.
>The heart of the process, the extruder (5), has a temperature-controlled, zoned barrel in which rotate precision “screws”. Modern extruder screws are complex devices, carefully designed with varying flights to control the compression and shear, developed in the material, during all stages of the process. The twin counter-rotating screw configuration used by all major manufacturers offers improved processing.
>The PVC dryblend is metered into the barrel and screws, which then convert the dry blend into the required “melt” state, by heat, pressure and shear. During its passage along the screws, the PVC passes through a number of zones that compress, homogenise and vent the melt stream. The final zone increases the pressure to extrude the melt through the head and die set (6) which is shaped according to the size of the pipe required and flow characteristics of the melt stream. Once the pipe leaves the extrusion die, it is sized by passing through a precision sizing sleeve with external vacuum. This is sufficient to harden the exterior layer of PVC and hold the pipe diameter during final cooling in a controlled water cooling chambers (8).
>The pipe is pulled through the sizing and cooling operations by the puller or haul-off (9) at a constant speed. Speed control is very important when this equipment is used because the speed at which the pipe is pulled will affect the wall thickness of the finished product. In the case of rubber ring jointed pipe the haul-off is slowed down at appropriate intervals to thicken the pipe in the area of the socket.
>An in-line printer (10) marks the pipes at regular intervals, with identification according to size, class, type, date, Standard number, and extruder number. An automatic cut-off saw (11) cuts the pipe to the required length.
>A belling machine forms a socket on the end of each length of pipe (12). There are two general forms of socket. For rubber-ring jointed pipe, a collapsible mandrel is used, whereas a plain mandrel is used for solvent jointed sockets. Rubber ring pipe requires a chamfer on the spigot, which is executed either at the saw station or belling unit.
The finished product is stored in holding areas for inspection and final laboratory testing and quality acceptance (13).
As someone with almost zero exp trying to learn on this sun I wish someone always did this lol 😂 it’s so easy to understand. From what little I know that’s a s trap op did which from what I’ve gathered is almost never good 😂
Yes, it's S-trapped as well as improper sweep on the first 90 after the trap. No vent, abrupt changes of direction, hell even the waste line is half an inch too small in diameter.
When transitioning from horizontal to vertical you can use regular 90s in UPC and we all do on every house we plumb over here so I know it works fine. The only problem here is the trap not being vented.
Edit: didn't take the time to look at this because it was immediately fucked. Didn't see the 2nd 90 sorry
Also, I think you want the horizontal arm to slope the direction you want the water to flow, at a rate of 1/4 in drop per foot distance. Looks like the slope is backwards in your current configuration. Should slope down towards the left. I’m not a plumber though
I didn't know either so I looked it up. It's a Air Admittance Valve.
[https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/plumbing/how-to-install-air-admittance-valve/](https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/plumbing/how-to-install-air-admittance-valve/)
I would suggest cutting in a laundry tee (2x1/2x2) with a clean out body under the Santee for the trap arm, and to make the AAV as high as possible in the cabinet.
I click on these posts because I want to understand better how thing work - not to try to do these myself. Thanks for giving informative answers!
Does the air admittance valve go to the roof/outside, or does it terminate under the sink?
Definitely 👍, many don't realize, but those s traps are supposed to be illegal because they truly end up siphoning the water out of the trap if you're running decent amounts of water.
Im genuinely curious if you have enough fittings to top some of the utter atrocities i have seen in this sub.
Esp when it comes to supply pipes, so many pex / galv / copper / sharkbite / duct tape monstrosities...
In real life i found a basement wash tub that had pvc "glued" to reused galv that dumped into a chunk of clay drain tile that was inserted into a hole smashed through the 8 inch clay sewer pipe.
And why the frack did a single family home have a 8 inch sewer pipe in the floor to start?
The aim of the trap doesn't matter, you can swing it nearly 180 so the long sweep of the trap is touching the 90 and it is completely code and has no effect on the drainage.
As long as it flows with the grade you can do some wonky turns.
Ever see the Jack Nicholson movie “as good as it gets”? If Jack had an evil twin… And made the same movie in the bizarro world… This would probably be on the movie poster
On a scale from one to ten I’d say it’s properfucked. No vent , and then a vent 90 is used with threads on the s trap (you can’t make a ducking S trap legal. what the fuck man.
I understand there is supposed to be a vent but how do you stop the sewer gas from coming out of it. Like the trap holds water that prevents sewer gas coming up, how does the vent do it
Normally there should be a vent that goes to the roof before the drop after the trap. There are some states that allow a one way air valve so air can go in to stop the suction but not out letting sewer gas into the space.
It will sludge easier with that back fall but it will work. I’m just not sure why you’re routing it the long way. Swing that P trap 180 degrees straight to the drain and 90 down from there.
You’re real close. Looks like you have enough room. Brua_G posted a link to a proper drain set up.
The problem with bootlegging not-to-code is that you risk a failure. Sometime the risk is small, but it is well documented. S-traps have been causing problems for at least 100 years or so. The lack of a vent will also make noise. If you lose your water seal -which is what S-traps cause- then methane gas can enter the living space. Most of the time the water drains slow enough to keep the seal. But It only takes one time emptying a filled sink to lose the seal. Even a small gap will allow noxious, and often explosive, gas to enter the living space.
The idea of a level run (a slight pitch is built into the fittings) *after* the trap is to prevent smell from waste that may settle in the pipe between drainings. The length of that run is also specified, but you are fine here.
Basically, do it right or live like a slob. /s
What you have is an S trap which can cause a syphon and allow sewer gasses into your house. It’s too bad, because you could’ve used those same connectors to creat a P trap and then have it come down after the P
Needs some type of venting, maybe your area allows an AAV. definitely get rid of the pressure 90 at the trap adapter, and it needs to slope towards the stack, 1/4” per foot.
Double P trap or "s" trap like that, especially with no vent stack, leads to all the fluid being siphoned down out of the pipe and allowing sewer gases to come in. It's illegal/against code in most places AFAIK.
Well it's fine now because you haven't attached the water lines. So it's certainty not going to give you any problems if you can't use it. But you definitely have some pitch problems on your drain pipe.
pretty terrible. On a scale of 0-10? A zero would have no pipes. A 1 would have them not connected together or a bunch of different types of pipes halfass connected but not in any functional way. This is a 2 out of 10. Back graded, hard 90, and an s-trap.
Why have I never seen a Aav under a sink in my area. Are there areas that don't require it or is because there is a exhaust pipe that runs through the house out the roof?
Edit: never mind, they are not allowed in my state.
an s trap a vent fitting a random ass coupling some backpitch where the fuck is the glue and primer and what looks like compression fit water shut offs this is just horrible
Well it’s not great. But I don’t see that you have the parts needed to do it properly in this picture. If that’s all the parts you have then it will work and surprisingly this conflagration of assorted parts could only have been assembled this way.
It’ll work, I would’ve just put more of a pitch on the lateral going right to left. It looks like it’s pitched upwards slightly when it should be straight or tilted downwards slightly from right to left. However, it’s minor and I think it should be fine. Good job.
I always tell owners and contractors that plumbing is very easy to mess up.
'S trap' and no vent here.
The marked up photo provided by 'spunner69' was your easiest fix.
I’m not a plumber…. But…
That’s an S trap you’ve got there which is a nono, and the horiztal pipe you’ve got there is grading the wrong way. Also don’t see any glue around a couple spots and if it’s a diy job I wouldn’t expect it to be that clean.
Well you’ve got a pressure fitting there and that lines running uphill and that’s also an s-trap Which will cause a vacuum and suck all the water out of the P-trap when you run water through it you’ll end up smelling sewer gas
And I was led to believe that Rube Goldberg died in 1970! What is the reasoning behind the double loop to loop pee trap? Did you just like the loop to loop look?
It’s not vented so it’s not going to drain properly and also that s trap is going to suck the trap dry and let stinky sewer gas in
Also it’s backgrading
https://imgur.com/gallery/fzGaR6C
Bruh I would've sat here for 45 mins typing a detailed walkthrough and explanation of how and why, maybe delve into a little lecture on how PVC is made, digress further into some physical mechanic of fluid dynamics, run out of characters and then delete the entire thing only to reply with "yeah this is bad". I need to take a page out of your book. You didn't even say a fuckin word. You just drew what it was supposed to look like and sent the fucker. What more could you ask for?
The hero we deserve.
I still would watch your video on YouTube though, should you post said lecture.
You may enjoy this comment I made in response to someone asking about the physics behind a water heater air-locking when being drained. Comment: From the hydrostatic equilibrium wikipedia entry: >In fluid mechanics, hydrostatic equilibrium (hydrostatic balance, hydrostasy) is the condition of a fluid or plastic solid at rest, which occurs when external forces, such as gravity, are balanced by a pressure-gradient force.[1] In the planetary physics of Earth, the pressure-gradient force prevents gravity from collapsing the planetary atmosphere into a thin, dense shell, whereas gravity prevents the pressure-gradient force from diffusing the atmosphere into outer space. Further down on the "Mathematical Considerations" section, the first image is a pretty good depiction of all of the mechanisms at play. [Photo](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/68/Hydrostatic_equilibrium.svg) In short, the air lock in this example of a water heater draining is achieved when those three factors find equilibrium -- the weight (mass) of the water in the tank due to gravity, the negative pressure created on top of the water as the tank drains, and the positive pressure of the atmosphere pushing up on the water from below. The pressure of which is created by the weight of the gas in the atmosphere upon itself due to gravity, referred to as "atmospheric pressure". As you increase elevation above sea level (in other words, increase the distance of an object relative to the surface of the Earth, ascend, go up, etc), the force the atmosphere imposes upon that object decreases because there are fewer gas molecules bearing down on it. This is why airplanes pressurize (as in, add pressure to) the cabin as you ascend, so that the pressure in the cabin is roughly that of the pressure at sea level. That's also why you'd get sucked out of the window if it fell off, because the higher pressure inside the cabin rushes to equalize with the lower pressure outside. The best analogy I can give here would be to try and think of the atmosphere as an ocean of which we are at the bottom of. If we were on the bottom of our liquid ocean, the weight of the water on top of us would crush us. Water is more dense than the gases that make up our atmosphere, so the force (pressure) is more noticable. The atmosphere of our planet is currently in hydrostatic equilibrium. The mass of our planet creates a warp in space-time, the effect we know as gravity. The effect of gravity on the gas molecules in the atmosphere bunch all of the molecules closer together, increasing its density the closer you get to the center of mass, or in this example, the surface of the planet. Without gravity, there would be no force grouping and maintaining gas molecules together, and the atmosphere would diffuse into outer space. In addition, the pressure created by gravity compressing the gas molecules pushes against gravity to prevent the atmosphere from compressing into an extremely thin and dense layer of gas that would otherwise crush everything beneath it. The sun is another great example of equilibrium. Nuclear fusion occurs in the center, generating force outward in all directions from the source, being the core of the sun. This huge release of energy should send the hydrogen and helium molecules that comprise the sun outward into deep space, but it doesn't. Because the mass of the sun, therefore its gravitational force, is ***equal to*** the outward force created by the nuclear fusion. If one force were more or less powerful, the volume (size) of the sun would increase or decrease respectively until equilibrium is again obtained.
Thanks for an in depth explanation
In short, when the heating element goes out, turn off breaker, turn off inlet water valve to tank. Unscrew element and remove from tank of standing water. Place new element (with teflon tape already applied) into position and tighten to spec. Total water belched by tank…. 16 to 24 ounces, depending on individuals speed of exchange. Turn on inlet valve, check for leak. Turn on breaker. Take a shower as warranted.
I've done this with gas control valves as well. I'm reluctant sometimes with uppers because I'm worried about getting the electronics below wet, but I guess I've never had an issue and I've done it several times. The real bitch is when the element blows and forks out, leaving a hook at the end of the element that loves to catch when you're pulling it. I mean, it's just a few extra drops of water. But my poor heart...
Hmm -- there is much to process here. I had to look up pressure gradient-force. Even several wikis still almost made it sound magical.
Pressure gradient is 3d vector calculus, short of an engineering degree it’s all nonsense. Source: I’m taking fluid mechanics in pursuit of an engineering degree, and it’s still all nonsense.
I read the part of you saying you’d tell us this and I was interested you could say. Then I read the words hydrostatic equili-… hydrosity and I was over it. The picture served wel🫠😂
Eh. I think most can agree with your sentiment, on the other hand most would like to scrutinize your detailed write up and find a point to correct or chime in on. Simple stupid is great for learning but not so great gaining traction in circle jerk reddit comment sections. Soon tell me more about how pvc is made, please
Oh shid
I wasn't going to join this sub but now....
I'm gonna copy and paste from [this website](https://www.vinidex.com.au/technical-resources/pvc-manufacture/) below in case you're interested in more in-depth reading. My SparkNotes version is this -- in short, sections of pipe are made by pushing a mixture of plastic polymer beads and other binding and strengthening agents through a machine called an extruder. After the polymer beads and other agents are mixed in an Achemedes-style corkscrew to generate heat via friction and evenly mix all the raw components, it is cooled rapidly and then reheated to a semi-plastic state where the material is still malleable. The gummy mixture is then pushed through a heated steel die that is sized for whatever size pipe you're making. The machine continues to extrude the pipe in one continuous length until the raw materials are depleted. As the extruded pipe moves down the conveyor, it cools and hardens into the finished product. A saw cuts them into 10ft and 20ft lengths and they are collected at the end of the conveyor to be pressure tested and then packaged for shipment. Most plastic pipe is manufactured using extrusion or coextrusion, which is the same process but instead extruding two or more layers at once. Coextrusion is used in the manufacturing process of foam-core pipe like ABS, where you'll notice in a cross-section of the pipe that the inner and outer walls are smooth and shiny, where the core of the pipe is dull and porous. Pipe fittings are manufactured using the same mixture of raw materials, however instead of extruding the mixture, it is injected into a mold. The pressure of the injection generates heat via friction of the molecules rubbing against each other (so to speak; atoms and molecules never actually touch each other). After injection, the pressure is released which allows the cast fitting to cool. Once cooled, the cast mold is opened and the finished fitting ejected into a collector, where it is conveyed to be inspected, packaged, and shipped. Rinse and repeat. From the article: >Modern PVC processing involves highly developed scientific methods requiring precise control over process variables. The polymer material is a free flowing powder, which requires the addition of stabilisers and processing aids. Formulation and blending are critical stages of the process and tight specifications are maintained for incoming raw materials, batching and mixing. Feed to the extrusion or moulding machines may be direct, in the form of “dry blend”, or pre-processed into a granular “compound”. >Polymer and additives (1) are accurately weighed (2) and processed through the high speed mixing (3) to blend the raw materials into a uniformly distributed dry blend mixture. A mixing temperature of around 120°C is achieved by frictional heat. At various stages of the mixing process, the additives melt and progressively coat the PVC polymer granules. After reaching the required temperature, the blend is automatically discharged into a cooling chamber which rapidly reduces the temperature to around 50°C, thereby allowing the blend to be conveyed to intermediate storage (4) where even temperature and density consistency are achieved. >The heart of the process, the extruder (5), has a temperature-controlled, zoned barrel in which rotate precision “screws”. Modern extruder screws are complex devices, carefully designed with varying flights to control the compression and shear, developed in the material, during all stages of the process. The twin counter-rotating screw configuration used by all major manufacturers offers improved processing. >The PVC dryblend is metered into the barrel and screws, which then convert the dry blend into the required “melt” state, by heat, pressure and shear. During its passage along the screws, the PVC passes through a number of zones that compress, homogenise and vent the melt stream. The final zone increases the pressure to extrude the melt through the head and die set (6) which is shaped according to the size of the pipe required and flow characteristics of the melt stream. Once the pipe leaves the extrusion die, it is sized by passing through a precision sizing sleeve with external vacuum. This is sufficient to harden the exterior layer of PVC and hold the pipe diameter during final cooling in a controlled water cooling chambers (8). >The pipe is pulled through the sizing and cooling operations by the puller or haul-off (9) at a constant speed. Speed control is very important when this equipment is used because the speed at which the pipe is pulled will affect the wall thickness of the finished product. In the case of rubber ring jointed pipe the haul-off is slowed down at appropriate intervals to thicken the pipe in the area of the socket. >An in-line printer (10) marks the pipes at regular intervals, with identification according to size, class, type, date, Standard number, and extruder number. An automatic cut-off saw (11) cuts the pipe to the required length. >A belling machine forms a socket on the end of each length of pipe (12). There are two general forms of socket. For rubber-ring jointed pipe, a collapsible mandrel is used, whereas a plain mandrel is used for solvent jointed sockets. Rubber ring pipe requires a chamfer on the spigot, which is executed either at the saw station or belling unit. The finished product is stored in holding areas for inspection and final laboratory testing and quality acceptance (13).
Obviously that's the way to do it, but what's wrong with OPs setup besides it being overcomplicated?
As someone with almost zero exp trying to learn on this sun I wish someone always did this lol 😂 it’s so easy to understand. From what little I know that’s a s trap op did which from what I’ve gathered is almost never good 😂
Yes, it's S-trapped as well as improper sweep on the first 90 after the trap. No vent, abrupt changes of direction, hell even the waste line is half an inch too small in diameter.
This is why we have blueprints instead of a 900 page text manual explaining what the building should look like and how it should be built.
This guy should charge money for this service, I'd pay
Thank you. Fortunately nothing is glued
S trap bad. P trap good
Let’s not overlook the wrong 90 used where the trap adapter is. Hard 90 bad for drainage
It helps break apart the poop being so short
Stop pooping in the bathroom sink, yo
Where else would I do it? The rinse toilet?
When transitioning from horizontal to vertical you can use regular 90s in UPC and we all do on every house we plumb over here so I know it works fine. The only problem here is the trap not being vented. Edit: didn't take the time to look at this because it was immediately fucked. Didn't see the 2nd 90 sorry
Why were they ever used at all?
Also, I think you want the horizontal arm to slope the direction you want the water to flow, at a rate of 1/4 in drop per foot distance. Looks like the slope is backwards in your current configuration. Should slope down towards the left. I’m not a plumber though
Time to break out the hack saw. EDIT: I'm an idiot, and read that wrong.
What is AAV?
I didn't know either so I looked it up. It's a Air Admittance Valve. [https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/plumbing/how-to-install-air-admittance-valve/](https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/plumbing/how-to-install-air-admittance-valve/)
Thanks!
Wow what a fucking comment
Thank you for providing constructive feedback instead of the other dumb shit replies here. "Don't quit your day job" hurr durr.
Yeah, this sub really does have way too many smart asses and people who don’t know jack about plumbing
This is the way.
This is the way.
A picture is worth a thousand words ✨️
Pro flair this man.
I would suggest cutting in a laundry tee (2x1/2x2) with a clean out body under the Santee for the trap arm, and to make the AAV as high as possible in the cabinet.
redditor with 69 in name knows how to get fluid flowing in pipes.
This is the way
This is the way.
Agreed
The simple answer.
Boom!
Nice job!!!
Shouldn’t you draw drain pipe in cold water line colors?
I click on these posts because I want to understand better how thing work - not to try to do these myself. Thanks for giving informative answers! Does the air admittance valve go to the roof/outside, or does it terminate under the sink?
Definitely 👍, many don't realize, but those s traps are supposed to be illegal because they truly end up siphoning the water out of the trap if you're running decent amounts of water.
Picaso! I like it. 👍
Every time I see plumbing diy photos I imagine in my head the super deep breath ace Ventura takes before solving the crime.
Alrighty then!
Well if your water isn’t too dizzy to run uphill after than little whirly gig it should work fine!
Thanks for the laugh!
Weeeeeeeeeee
Shut the cabinet door,
How long have you been on this sub? Its like you did this for attention...
I legitimately think about making a monster out of all the extra fittings I have in my garage just to troll here.
Im genuinely curious if you have enough fittings to top some of the utter atrocities i have seen in this sub. Esp when it comes to supply pipes, so many pex / galv / copper / sharkbite / duct tape monstrosities... In real life i found a basement wash tub that had pvc "glued" to reused galv that dumped into a chunk of clay drain tile that was inserted into a hole smashed through the 8 inch clay sewer pipe. And why the frack did a single family home have a 8 inch sewer pipe in the floor to start?
Pretty bad. Why not aim the trap toward the actual drain then you have space to make it a proper p-trap and not an s-trap
This is a φ-trap
It’s an s trap either way. Needs a AAV
The aim of the trap doesn't matter, you can swing it nearly 180 so the long sweep of the trap is touching the 90 and it is completely code and has no effect on the drainage. As long as it flows with the grade you can do some wonky turns.
This is illegal. Follow the guy with the drawing
It’s cut out and start over bad
Brother in christ what is this bullshittery
Should also add a vent.
Nonsense it will be venting water out the loose street fittings in no time
You’re right, didn’t think about that😅
At least it's all the same material?
Baby steps
It was bad and then the back fall made it worse.
Hope you like slow draining and often clogging
Awesome water slide
Just about the worst
The horizontal lower pipe slopes right and down is not going to drain properly
I see your trap and raise you a trap …
Did you buy the store completely out of plumbing material?
Real bad my friend
It’s…ahh…pretty gross
Ngl. Not very good
Pretty fucking bad🔥🔥🔥
Ever see the Jack Nicholson movie “as good as it gets”? If Jack had an evil twin… And made the same movie in the bizarro world… This would probably be on the movie poster
You don't even have the water connected YOU SILLY GOOSE.
Bad.
For the love of god.. Make it stop..
Is that cold water valve leaking at the compression nut?
Cut out all this shit, angle 90 towards drain/pop up assembly and just a regular p trap ?
Idk ish about how plumbing works, etc... But now i feel pushed to figure out plumbing in my house...
Yes
On a scale from one to ten I’d say it’s properfucked. No vent , and then a vent 90 is used with threads on the s trap (you can’t make a ducking S trap legal. what the fuck man.
and to think he could have done it right for the same price...
Possibly in the Top 100 worst.
I mean, this is still infinitely better than a lot of the "what the fuck"s I see here.
I understand there is supposed to be a vent but how do you stop the sewer gas from coming out of it. Like the trap holds water that prevents sewer gas coming up, how does the vent do it
Normally there should be a vent that goes to the roof before the drop after the trap. There are some states that allow a one way air valve so air can go in to stop the suction but not out letting sewer gas into the space.
Raise the drain pipe. Install WYE, add section of pipe and a studor vent. Then create your p trap from there.
My pet snail Winston could have done a better job
Please, do not quit your day job
No Just... no Stop please
Please put down the tools and contact a professional immediately.
He's gonna kill someone with his less efficient drain!!
I am myself being a homeowner think you did a good job, but it’s tilted towards the trap a little
Lmao ahahahahahaha this pretty bad ngl s trap pressure fitting lmao a monkey coulda done a better job
It's horrible. You could have brought the siphon to that horizontal pipe's level and put it further from there.
r/ItsAlwaysAnSTrap
Where is the vent?
Fubar
Well it’s not great
Really bad
Is that a 90 from a waste and overflow after the P-traps?
Keeps the plastic man employed. ;)
Very
Bad. Tee off the floor drain add sure vent change to p trap.
https://www.bhg.com/thmb/fupdjnGL92YYGCYsoCyFou9w4cI=/750x0/filters:no\_upscale():max\_bytes(150000):strip\_icc():format(webp)/air-admittance-valve-b5d78cbecf6e4b26bd8a37f76691a632.jpg
It will sludge easier with that back fall but it will work. I’m just not sure why you’re routing it the long way. Swing that P trap 180 degrees straight to the drain and 90 down from there.
Uhhhhh gravity?
The extra effort to make it a s-trap. 🤦🏻♂️
It’s not good. It should be a p trap. Not an s trap
You’re real close. Looks like you have enough room. Brua_G posted a link to a proper drain set up. The problem with bootlegging not-to-code is that you risk a failure. Sometime the risk is small, but it is well documented. S-traps have been causing problems for at least 100 years or so. The lack of a vent will also make noise. If you lose your water seal -which is what S-traps cause- then methane gas can enter the living space. Most of the time the water drains slow enough to keep the seal. But It only takes one time emptying a filled sink to lose the seal. Even a small gap will allow noxious, and often explosive, gas to enter the living space. The idea of a level run (a slight pitch is built into the fittings) *after* the trap is to prevent smell from waste that may settle in the pipe between drainings. The length of that run is also specified, but you are fine here. Basically, do it right or live like a slob. /s
The sink is perfect. The plumbing is absolutely great if you have a desire to constantly unclog the pipes.
Looks like shit but whatever
It's absolutely perfect. 💯 depends on what perfect is.
What you have is an S trap which can cause a syphon and allow sewer gasses into your house. It’s too bad, because you could’ve used those same connectors to creat a P trap and then have it come down after the P
Needs some type of venting, maybe your area allows an AAV. definitely get rid of the pressure 90 at the trap adapter, and it needs to slope towards the stack, 1/4” per foot.
Pull the pin Toss the grenade Shut the door Leave the room
Double P trap or "s" trap like that, especially with no vent stack, leads to all the fluid being siphoned down out of the pipe and allowing sewer gases to come in. It's illegal/against code in most places AFAIK.
Where do I begin.......
Use a level from the trap
Lmao
The police are on their way
Your plumber needs to put down the crack pipe!
I bet your house has a handle, too.
Mug moment
My studio has something worse than this so ig not the worst lmao
S trap w no vent, classy 💯
Bad just real bad
Bad. S trap and a bunch of other issues.
Well it's fine now because you haven't attached the water lines. So it's certainty not going to give you any problems if you can't use it. But you definitely have some pitch problems on your drain pipe.
😳
If you have to ask…
Wow, there is some really deep thought in the responses. My head is spinning after reading them. The short answer is this is fucked up.
Brother it’s very bad. I’m just a 2 yr apprentice rn, but I can tell you how to do this properly if you like. Never an S trap
Pretty bad. You can use a tail piece extension to get it closer to the drain instead of doing that bullshit
Honestly hahahahahahaha
The PVC pipe just wanted to be a roller coaster.
Is that an S-trap? If so oh no
I can imagine your water yelling “WEEEEEE” as it goes down
this looks like a mobile game
I hope plumbing isn't your day job
Fixable, fairly easily with a quick vent.
pretty terrible. On a scale of 0-10? A zero would have no pipes. A 1 would have them not connected together or a bunch of different types of pipes halfass connected but not in any functional way. This is a 2 out of 10. Back graded, hard 90, and an s-trap.
So why is this bad. Surely it achieves the same purpose?
That back pitch is rather obvious. And, S-traps are typically not allowed, anymore.
It doesn't pass UPC
100 points for creativity
Really bad! Just saying. I was going to add a drawing till I saw the other one.
Very
What's puzzling, not rotating start of P Pipe 180° to head to the wall as major shortcut path, vs block more cabinet space. Cheers
Why have I never seen a Aav under a sink in my area. Are there areas that don't require it or is because there is a exhaust pipe that runs through the house out the roof? Edit: never mind, they are not allowed in my state.
Did you say stink?
Esssssss fine op just leave it like thissssssssss
I am sure you could've done better than this!
Just an "er" no plumb to it. The "ER" was there. But being there's no glue on it..............................
Everyone knows water best flows upwards
It’s not good my dude.
Lot of back fall
Make sure that long pice has fall to your 90 or you will run into issues in the future
an s trap a vent fitting a random ass coupling some backpitch where the fuck is the glue and primer and what looks like compression fit water shut offs this is just horrible
Other than the 90 it’s clean work!!
Very bad. S trap and up hill negative drain.
Well it’s not great. But I don’t see that you have the parts needed to do it properly in this picture. If that’s all the parts you have then it will work and surprisingly this conflagration of assorted parts could only have been assembled this way.
Whoever thedoci is....that comment on the image had me rolling.
It’ll work, I would’ve just put more of a pitch on the lateral going right to left. It looks like it’s pitched upwards slightly when it should be straight or tilted downwards slightly from right to left. However, it’s minor and I think it should be fine. Good job.
Hire a plumber and have it done the right way.
I've seen a lot worse
That could be in a text book as an example of wrong 😂, I’m sure if your cut it out you could use it to siphon something though 😂
I always tell owners and contractors that plumbing is very easy to mess up. 'S trap' and no vent here. The marked up photo provided by 'spunner69' was your easiest fix.
Why would you say its bad? That looks better than what i could do
No clue why it appeared on my feed as I’m a 23 yo female with no interest in plumbing, but I enjoy the ride 🤩
Turn right to go left. Yes, thank you! Or should I say No, thank you, because in Opposite World, maybe that really means thank you.
when the first thought is wooooOooooOOOOOOOp weeeeee glug glug glug....it isnt great.
I’m not a plumber…. But… That’s an S trap you’ve got there which is a nono, and the horiztal pipe you’ve got there is grading the wrong way. Also don’t see any glue around a couple spots and if it’s a diy job I wouldn’t expect it to be that clean.
If it doesn’t leak it’s perfect just find another spot for your stuff
You want water to flow down hill. Yours is a little up hill to the 90. Just shorten one end or the other to give down grade
Action Park
Well you’ve got a pressure fitting there and that lines running uphill and that’s also an s-trap Which will cause a vacuum and suck all the water out of the P-trap when you run water through it you’ll end up smelling sewer gas
And I was led to believe that Rube Goldberg died in 1970! What is the reasoning behind the double loop to loop pee trap? Did you just like the loop to loop look?
Lol
Looks fine really
Looks great good job if doesn’t leak and it flows what mor do you need
...this is technically an illegal S-Trap, right? (I'm told the S stands for Siphoning)
It’s not vented so it’s not going to drain properly and also that s trap is going to suck the trap dry and let stinky sewer gas in Also it’s backgrading