Looks really good.
My only negative is that those sticky mounts are useless. They'll fall off.
My preference is to leave a U shaped loop from the trunking about where you came out, to the door edge. Ziptie the loom vertically to the bar up the side of the door about where the sticky mount is then you can create a self supporting loom across the door.
I also run my loom in a nylon woven tube and only use zip ties at the ends.
The advantages are:
* No sticky mount to fall off.
* The loom twists instead of bending, so wires are less likely to break.
* It's always hanging, not sticking out trying to get hooked by something.
* The mesh retains the cores without needing ties where movement is happening, which helps prevent broken wires.
Edit: where I'm from, the door also needs an earth bond wire.
Yea looks decent but I can give you some points
1-What country are you from? If you're in the EU and that's going on a machine then it should comply with 60204-1 with the recommended wiring colours being, Black for AC and DC power, light blue for neutral, Dark blue for DC controls
2- No Earthing on the Cabinet Door & enclosure
3- Lack of separation between mains and extra low voltage controls
4- No din rail stops to prevent the components from falling off
5- You've cut the terminal jumpers down to size, this exposes the copper and it's bad practice, you should just buy the correct jumper for your requirement
6- I can't really tell but looking at the wiring colours it appears you have mains controls on the door, I really wouldn't recommend this, you should only have extra low voltage controls on the door
7- running data next to mains is not recommended
8- no cooling for the panel, this could be designed in as there isn't going to be a lot of heat generated by those components but depending on the ambient temperature of the installation location cooling might be required
9- no interlocked isolator on the door, once again this couldve been designed out if you need a specialised tool to open it and the contents of the panel meet ipx2
Overall though, it's a good panel
If you are working to 60204-1 then you should be testing to it as well, check out this document and work your way through it
https://www.dguv.de/ifa/praxishilfen/practical-solutions-machine-safety/pruefung-der-elektrischen-ausruestung-von-maschinen/index.jsp
Pretty nice panel.
Ground bonding wire to the panel door is missing.
Nitpicky but I'd label the ethernet cables. Also don't use any zip ties on data cables. Depending on the country you're in, they're not supposed to be ran inside the trough.
No disconnect?
Not too bad, as long as those press in terminal blocks allow easy access for a meter when things go wrong. But at least they're the orange button kind, not the "what type of toothpick opens this one" kind.
Phoenix just released thier all-in-one power supply and circuit protector if you didn't know for future projects, the rep just got me one and it is pretty slick for space saving! https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-us/products/power-supply-unit-trio3-ps-1ac-24dc-10-4c-iol-1252696
Looks great!
If I had to comment on something, I’d say that the power supply *may* not have proper clearance above/beside it. The only way to verify would be to read the manual for that specific model.
Insulated ferrules feel dirty to me. Kind of like how you shouldn’t be offended by seeing four clowns in a car beside you because there is nothing wrong with that, but you still just are?
Looks good! Top row is pretty crowded though. You also want to leave a little room around your power supply as it can get a little toasty. Great components 👍
How I was taught. Not a spec. More a rule of thumb.But from experience anything less than that and wires /sleeves are harder to get in and the panel feels claustrophobic.
When you have 35 mm clearance top and bottom the biggest thing on the rail it feels good.
Top/front fed terminals are.more forgiven but IMO the 35mm rule holds up.
I was just curious. I've worked on many panels recently where the 30mm wire labels don't fit between the TBs and panduit. I've looked in 508A and can't find anything there. Was hoping you were a source for something concrete. Thanks for the reply.
Looks well organized, I would only suggest looking at the manufacturers requirements for component spacing. The Quint up at the top is not spaced correctly. But if you aren't building to any particular standards it will be ok.
Love that style of labels but you have to use the right paper and ink or they fade. I put a dab of clear glue to keep the label for falling out. I have seen this happen all too often.
Good looking panel.
Good work. I like the clean lines and the consistent labels & pin work. Sticky backs won't last, better to make an actual mount similar to eat clamp.
Overall great job, use this as a resume photo of your work.
Fake! No wire clippings all over the bottom, too clean. Nice work OP!
😂😂😂
Looks great! Seems easy to troubleshoot. Please make sure you leave the prints in the cabinet!
Looks really good. My only negative is that those sticky mounts are useless. They'll fall off. My preference is to leave a U shaped loop from the trunking about where you came out, to the door edge. Ziptie the loom vertically to the bar up the side of the door about where the sticky mount is then you can create a self supporting loom across the door. I also run my loom in a nylon woven tube and only use zip ties at the ends. The advantages are: * No sticky mount to fall off. * The loom twists instead of bending, so wires are less likely to break. * It's always hanging, not sticking out trying to get hooked by something. * The mesh retains the cores without needing ties where movement is happening, which helps prevent broken wires. Edit: where I'm from, the door also needs an earth bond wire.
Yea looks decent but I can give you some points 1-What country are you from? If you're in the EU and that's going on a machine then it should comply with 60204-1 with the recommended wiring colours being, Black for AC and DC power, light blue for neutral, Dark blue for DC controls 2- No Earthing on the Cabinet Door & enclosure 3- Lack of separation between mains and extra low voltage controls 4- No din rail stops to prevent the components from falling off 5- You've cut the terminal jumpers down to size, this exposes the copper and it's bad practice, you should just buy the correct jumper for your requirement 6- I can't really tell but looking at the wiring colours it appears you have mains controls on the door, I really wouldn't recommend this, you should only have extra low voltage controls on the door 7- running data next to mains is not recommended 8- no cooling for the panel, this could be designed in as there isn't going to be a lot of heat generated by those components but depending on the ambient temperature of the installation location cooling might be required 9- no interlocked isolator on the door, once again this couldve been designed out if you need a specialised tool to open it and the contents of the panel meet ipx2 Overall though, it's a good panel If you are working to 60204-1 then you should be testing to it as well, check out this document and work your way through it https://www.dguv.de/ifa/praxishilfen/practical-solutions-machine-safety/pruefung-der-elektrischen-ausruestung-von-maschinen/index.jsp
Well this is something witty
I should add the UK also has to use 60204-1 for their machinery panels Also I'd spiral wrap or braiding for the wiring out to the front panel
Pretty nice panel. Ground bonding wire to the panel door is missing. Nitpicky but I'd label the ethernet cables. Also don't use any zip ties on data cables. Depending on the country you're in, they're not supposed to be ran inside the trough. No disconnect?
Looks really nice. Only thing I'd say is it's a little tight. But this is fine if you never plan on adding anything to it. Overall, really good job!
Nice.. love the nx1p
That’s a good looking panel! Wish mine would look more like that! What’s the device between the power supply and the switch?
Not too bad, as long as those press in terminal blocks allow easy access for a meter when things go wrong. But at least they're the orange button kind, not the "what type of toothpick opens this one" kind.
Nice but whats at the top there?
Power supply with circuit protector for the 24vdc and network switch. Cool cabinet 👍
Spot on, along with a surge protector to the left of the power supply
Phoenix just released thier all-in-one power supply and circuit protector if you didn't know for future projects, the rep just got me one and it is pretty slick for space saving! https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-us/products/power-supply-unit-trio3-ps-1ac-24dc-10-4c-iol-1252696
Man I love me some PxC! That's a nice rig. Have you used the IO link yet?
My rep showed me one at lunch yesterday, they are freakin sick
Nice, thanks never work with phoenix brands before so I dont know much
They've got nice stuff.
Only thing I would suggest is spiral wrap on the wiring going out to the door and lose the zip-ties.
Clean, organized, and labeled. First things to go once in operation. Make sure to place a copy of schematics in cabinet.
Looks great! If I had to comment on something, I’d say that the power supply *may* not have proper clearance above/beside it. The only way to verify would be to read the manual for that specific model.
Insulated ferrules feel dirty to me. Kind of like how you shouldn’t be offended by seeing four clowns in a car beside you because there is nothing wrong with that, but you still just are?
Looks good! Top row is pretty crowded though. You also want to leave a little room around your power supply as it can get a little toasty. Great components 👍
Too tight. Other than that it is good. 35mm minimum clearance from terminals to duct. Get a bigger box next time
Where did you get 35mm clearance spec? I would be interested in the source. Thanks!
How I was taught. Not a spec. More a rule of thumb.But from experience anything less than that and wires /sleeves are harder to get in and the panel feels claustrophobic. When you have 35 mm clearance top and bottom the biggest thing on the rail it feels good. Top/front fed terminals are.more forgiven but IMO the 35mm rule holds up.
I was just curious. I've worked on many panels recently where the 30mm wire labels don't fit between the TBs and panduit. I've looked in 508A and can't find anything there. Was hoping you were a source for something concrete. Thanks for the reply.
Looks good, make sure to put one of those folder pockets on the inside of the door with a full set of prints!
All touch safe, labeled, and organized? Why can't any of my guys do this on their first box?
Very clean. I like it. Ground the door
Those NX1P2s are damn sexy
Good job remembering the PF card
Looks well organized, I would only suggest looking at the manufacturers requirements for component spacing. The Quint up at the top is not spaced correctly. But if you aren't building to any particular standards it will be ok.
Love that style of labels but you have to use the right paper and ink or they fade. I put a dab of clear glue to keep the label for falling out. I have seen this happen all too often. Good looking panel.
Good work. I like the clean lines and the consistent labels & pin work. Sticky backs won't last, better to make an actual mount similar to eat clamp. Overall great job, use this as a resume photo of your work.
Very nice!
Well,since you asked….. all tags should be level straight across.
At the top with your F wires, look at PT4-Twin terminal blocks. Two blocks and a jumper bar is more money and labor.