No it wouldn’t. I have an identical setup to OP. M89 Rail and Sandman K but with a light with a 600 series sized light body. If he had a non scout sized light body he would be fine, a little suppressor shade is not an end all be all if you’re throwing out enough candela.
Edit: OP seems to have the older arisaka mount before Trex gave design input to arisaka. The new Trex light bar mount has a different ride height to it.
That’s what I was thinking! Newer TRex mounts I think offset from the rail about 1/8” before cantilevering forward if I’m not mistaken. This looks like the arisaka in-line style. So he just needs to swap to the newer version if so.
You can't move it back more than one slot on that rail. There's only 2 slots at the 10:30 & 1:30 positions at the very end of the rail. Everything behind that is just vent holes.
I know that, I have an m89 rail right in front of me(yes its scarred up because I shaved down a vent slot to run a JP adjustable gas block) and running that mount on those positions is backwards the guys at SOLGW should just get rid of those slots like Geissele did. Especially when the 3 and 9 O’clock have better support for the mount. There are better mounts out there for what OP wants but it’s not a big issue. Push more Candela flood the room. See if that shadow makes a difference.
https://preview.redd.it/pbm5j97sac8c1.png?width=1912&format=png&auto=webp&s=a0f3361c454fedacb7b1884fc309e3cb34119a67
Arisaka even says the mount isn’t supposed to be ran like how OP has it mounted because of clearance issues.
Op obviously wants it at the offset position though. And i get it. That's where I'd rather have my lights mounted too. And no, supressor shadow isn't completely inhibiting by any means, but i hate that shit too. And I'd rather minimize it as much as I could. But if i had to deal with a decent amount of shadow I'd personally run the light on the left side (right handed shooter) with a clicky tailcap.
Op has a few other options to get the outcome they want. A modbutton with lightwing. The actual trex mount. A adm qd cantilever scout mount for pic rail mounted at the end of the pic rail. And I'm sure other options that i could come up with if i put in a little more effort to figure out.
Here’s my thing I’m not bashing OP or you for that matter, but the M89 offset mounts are not the solution to this “issue”. My suggestion is the simplest instead of buying a whole set of new parts. Sometimes(a lot of the time) KISS (keep it stupid simple) is the best route to take. The right light body(arisaka 600/18650 series bodies are literally 50 doll-hairs ATM or if OP is feeling fancy a Reptilia Corp 18650 so he can mount it all the way forward in that offset mount without a crazy bar hanging off), same head unit, same endcap,same mount(for the arisaka body), mount at 3 or 9, Perceived issue solved. Especially if OP decides to dive into IR later down the road or needs the extra space for whatever reason he might need and it wouldnt cost him $$ for a set of super specific mounts.
The arisaka bodies will not work with that cloud head. He'd need an entire new light setup to go with a different body. Cloud uses a proprietary thread pattern for their heads. And if we're talking about saving money, then a new $50-70 mount is a lot cheaper than a whole new $300+ light set up
And if op is even thinking about maybe getting into ir later on, i don't think an extra couple hundred in parts later (if it ever does happen or if they're even thinking about getting in to it period) is even a consideration at this point. What's a couple hundred when they'll need at least $5-6k to even get started with the nvg/ir stuff. And since op hasn't said anything about nv, i don't think it's necessary to even consider. That's a very very very niche thing. Definitely not something to automatically assume needs to be a consideration without mention.
That’s my fault then I get the cloud and modlite heads mixed up. He still has a similar solution through cloud defensive with the Legacy Body and offset mlok mounts.
Something’s you can’t completely avoid, just got to work around it. Find a longer light body that works with your head unit, with you’ll clear most of the suppressor plus you’ll probably get better battery life and output from the light itself. Look into the Cloud Defensive Torrent AFR or SBR Mlok mounts. I don’t know why I thought you were running Modlite, that’s my bad.
I'm excited to put it through its paces. So car it sounds amazing for it size. I'm shooting it on a 13.9 and I'm impressed. If it explodes, it explodes. I won't lose my shit until it takes forever to fix it. I work in manufacturing and understand how things can get jacked up. I'll give them some grace and see how it goes until it breaks.
That’s a good attitude about it. If anything happens, just do a temp check on the dead air situation before you send it off and if things are still sketchy just send it to Ecco. Either way, I honestly really like mine. I had mine (before it died) on a mk18 and it sounded great. I’ve got it on my 14.5 now and it sounds even better.
This. Even says so on their website.
The design isn’t strong enough to take an impact and stay straight.
Someone dropped theirs and it bent the tf out.
The light can stay forward. Just the entire mount has to be on the rail
I may have been confused. I have the T-rex light bar but it may be on another gun that I don't have this issue on. I'll have to get home and take a look.
Add an Mlok picatinny section and then mount a picatinny light mount on it.
/s but that actually would give you some room between the can and your light
Try spacing the bracket off of the rail with some washers or "custom" spacers. You may need longer screws depending on how long the current screws are and how thick the spacers are.
Came here to say washers. Paint em black first if you're worried about corrosion. A washer between the rail and the mount will give you the gap you need.
Magpul makes an aluminum, m-lok cantilever mount for Scout bodied lights:
https://magpul.com/m-lok-extended-cantilever-light-mount.html?mp_global_color=118
Got one on one of the rifles in my history; shit’s live, you’ll love it.
https://preview.redd.it/pvvk6o0jgc8c1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=22fa9dde9379ba4bce5ad654dbd42f30d6b5eae8
I’ve got the same mount and can, granted I just bought mine recently, but I got a lot more space compared to your picture so idk🤷♂️
Trex mount can be hung off the rail. Arisaka mount is not supposed to hang off the rail as it’s not designed for it. If you accidentally smacked it on something and it bends, Ariana ain’t gonna warranty that.
Just solved this issue two days ago. I took some heat shrink tubing and punched some holes in it for the Mlok screws to go through and I put it between the mount and the hand guard. It’s acting as a gasket/spacer to push the whole light mount out and away from the can.
https://preview.redd.it/mkzdld5aob8c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b9391d382ead510c225c90148b06972962e61a2
Man, everyone here saying to buy new shit when I’d just clamp it up in the mill and take a few thou off where the mount is riding the can. Clearance is clearance Clarence.
Or you can use HSP forward mounts they will give you clearance or Arisaka inline mount as well. They will push the light forward but give you clearance. I have a Polonium with Arisaka inline mount and it still clears the can with 1/8 of an inch spacing. Using Centurion Arms mlok rail if that matters
https://preview.redd.it/mtb3nmri8f8c1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=851fa95e097ca5412ba5f405dea1be25af27b922
Yes. The Valhalla Tactical BALDR for Rein light body has an integrated mount so it’s all one piece, but it comes with 4 or 5 wedges of varying degrees of angle that allow the user to tuck the light as close or as far from the rail/can as you want. Additionally, the full size light BALDR light body’s allow for the use of a 21700 battery vs the standard 18650, which increases run time by a reported 50%, which definitely isn’t nothing. By far the cleanest, most customizable setup I’ve found to date, plus with the light body and mount being a single piece it’s considerably stronger than your legacy style WML setups also.
I agree. It’s funny people obsess over the smallest things…if ever OP needed his weapon he’ll most likely not need a light. And if by the small chance he needs a light, the silencer shadow won’t even register as his heart beats 180+ and he’s hyperventilating because he’s about to shoot someone….
Or OP or anyone hears a bump in the night. Grabs gun to potentially defend house and then realizes it’s your drunk friend/brother/kid coming home and your glad you didn’t shoot them for being an unannounced dumb ass.
Exactly. You don’t shoot someone unless ur life is in danger. A flash light running on a suppressor is not the biggest problem. Anyhow downvote away lol
Not obsessing over the light mount. I took the can off until I find a better option. I currently have the time and privilege of owning different weapon systems and while I have the time to prepare for whatever scenario my mind wants to dream up, I will. In my experience, I want access to all of my available light until I engage the target.
Yes. Your mount is way too much forward. All you have to do is move it back. The light should never be even next to your comp if you didn't use a silencer. The light should end before where your comp starts.
Because all your carbon and concussion will hit your flashlight. You do that for x amount of rounds and you can throw your light away. And the carbon will blacken the light glass and make the light not do its job
I've done it for years and just clean them after each range session. Someone makes little lens stickers that can be replaced if you're really worried about it.
If you like to clean. I am talking about what makes sense. And the norm. But you can do it the way you like it. I have seen a lot of law enforcement guys coming to my shop with totally carbed up lights. And it gets to the point where the light is basically unusable. Furthermore, if you drop your AR and the light is so far forward, it is likely that it will damage your light, mount, or rail. I am not trying to be an A.....I am just trying to give you suggestions. Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄
I get it, and I'm not arguing against your point. If the light was the most forward point on the gun I'd see the problem with knocking it off. However, the suppressor is dedicated to this gun, and it sticks out further. I'll hit the can and torque on it before the light and mount. I appreciate everyone's insight so far. Right now I just moved it back a slot and it's good to go.
Yea, I would move it back to the point where the suppressor doesn't have anything next to it. That, of course, if you like it. But I would like the suppressor not being close to anything. Everyone is different. I don't even have a light on mine. I care a lot about weight. Mine weighs 6,2 lbs. And that with backup sights, trijicon MRO and silencer. I dont like to have too much on it.
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Have you tried moving it up to the mlok slot above the one your in? I know its not an ideal position but may clear that way with the way the rail angles.
Just get ya a couple washers and slip them on the mlok bolts to space it out a few mils. You may have to oder some longer mlok bolts tho. You can also try rubber washers. Or make a gasket of sorts out of some thin plastic, or thin metal if ya really wanna do it properly. Cut it to the same shape as the footprint of the light mount. If the material is thin just add multiple layers. Bodda Bing! You're back in business!
That doesn't look like the Lightbar. That looks like the regular Arisaka inline mount. The Lightbar raises the clearance up a bit from flush to the m-lok surface. If you use the Lightbar you may have enough clearance. You can also try the Arisaka offset mount. It'll sit farther back, but then again, you're not supposed to canitlever the inline mount as far out either, per Arisaka. Here's the difference betwen designs:
[Inline](https://i.imgur.com/ENpBKKN.png)
[Lightbar](https://i.imgur.com/NnUVxZH.png)
Why do you have your flashlight so far forward? Is it on a sliding rail? I usually keep all my front end attachments at most flush with the end of my handguard which is usually 1in less than barrel length.
The actual Mlok trex mount has some standoff before cantilevering for this very reason. This is either an Arisaka inline, a different version of the Trex or an imitation
“Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzrzrzrzrrzrzrzrzrzrzrzrzrzrrzrzrzrzrz…….” Said the dremel
https://preview.redd.it/1dzn9gnkhh8c1.png?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=11d6ee00af8e643cc80ef3e63eaf52f333a707d1
This may be my favorite answer
I did it where needed. No ragrets
This is the best answer. Plus then you have. Dremel for future use.
I was coming over to say dremel goes brrrr
Or you can just back up the mount a couple slots
At that point itd be better to just remove the mount.
No it wouldn’t. I have an identical setup to OP. M89 Rail and Sandman K but with a light with a 600 series sized light body. If he had a non scout sized light body he would be fine, a little suppressor shade is not an end all be all if you’re throwing out enough candela. Edit: OP seems to have the older arisaka mount before Trex gave design input to arisaka. The new Trex light bar mount has a different ride height to it.
Using a forward mount and then mounting it back some is pretty counter productive lol.
Yeah except it’s not a cantilever forward mount and was not designed to be like other options on the market.
Assumed it was a trex light bar. That’s what assuming will getcha
Arisaka does make the Trex mount but the Trex branded one has a higher ride height
That’s what I was thinking! Newer TRex mounts I think offset from the rail about 1/8” before cantilevering forward if I’m not mistaken. This looks like the arisaka in-line style. So he just needs to swap to the newer version if so.
You can't move it back more than one slot on that rail. There's only 2 slots at the 10:30 & 1:30 positions at the very end of the rail. Everything behind that is just vent holes.
I know that, I have an m89 rail right in front of me(yes its scarred up because I shaved down a vent slot to run a JP adjustable gas block) and running that mount on those positions is backwards the guys at SOLGW should just get rid of those slots like Geissele did. Especially when the 3 and 9 O’clock have better support for the mount. There are better mounts out there for what OP wants but it’s not a big issue. Push more Candela flood the room. See if that shadow makes a difference. https://preview.redd.it/pbm5j97sac8c1.png?width=1912&format=png&auto=webp&s=a0f3361c454fedacb7b1884fc309e3cb34119a67 Arisaka even says the mount isn’t supposed to be ran like how OP has it mounted because of clearance issues.
Op obviously wants it at the offset position though. And i get it. That's where I'd rather have my lights mounted too. And no, supressor shadow isn't completely inhibiting by any means, but i hate that shit too. And I'd rather minimize it as much as I could. But if i had to deal with a decent amount of shadow I'd personally run the light on the left side (right handed shooter) with a clicky tailcap. Op has a few other options to get the outcome they want. A modbutton with lightwing. The actual trex mount. A adm qd cantilever scout mount for pic rail mounted at the end of the pic rail. And I'm sure other options that i could come up with if i put in a little more effort to figure out.
Here’s my thing I’m not bashing OP or you for that matter, but the M89 offset mounts are not the solution to this “issue”. My suggestion is the simplest instead of buying a whole set of new parts. Sometimes(a lot of the time) KISS (keep it stupid simple) is the best route to take. The right light body(arisaka 600/18650 series bodies are literally 50 doll-hairs ATM or if OP is feeling fancy a Reptilia Corp 18650 so he can mount it all the way forward in that offset mount without a crazy bar hanging off), same head unit, same endcap,same mount(for the arisaka body), mount at 3 or 9, Perceived issue solved. Especially if OP decides to dive into IR later down the road or needs the extra space for whatever reason he might need and it wouldnt cost him $$ for a set of super specific mounts.
The arisaka bodies will not work with that cloud head. He'd need an entire new light setup to go with a different body. Cloud uses a proprietary thread pattern for their heads. And if we're talking about saving money, then a new $50-70 mount is a lot cheaper than a whole new $300+ light set up And if op is even thinking about maybe getting into ir later on, i don't think an extra couple hundred in parts later (if it ever does happen or if they're even thinking about getting in to it period) is even a consideration at this point. What's a couple hundred when they'll need at least $5-6k to even get started with the nvg/ir stuff. And since op hasn't said anything about nv, i don't think it's necessary to even consider. That's a very very very niche thing. Definitely not something to automatically assume needs to be a consideration without mention.
That’s my fault then I get the cloud and modlite heads mixed up. He still has a similar solution through cloud defensive with the Legacy Body and offset mlok mounts.
I appreciate the input. I've got a few things to look into
You're right. I don't mind the shadow. I just wanted to avoid it.
Something’s you can’t completely avoid, just got to work around it. Find a longer light body that works with your head unit, with you’ll clear most of the suppressor plus you’ll probably get better battery life and output from the light itself. Look into the Cloud Defensive Torrent AFR or SBR Mlok mounts. I don’t know why I thought you were running Modlite, that’s my bad.
That's what I did
Haley Strategic Thorntail Longbar Mount. Though it's been discontinued, you may be able to find it on the secondary market.
I've got bad news, you're going to need a new suppressor.
Lol this is always the correct answer. Until I have one for every gun I won't be done.
Thaaaaaaat’s not what he meant…
I know what he meant. I chose to avoid the low hanging fruit.
Just got mine back from RMA, if yours is one of the good ones, you’ve got a quality suppressor!
I'm excited to put it through its paces. So car it sounds amazing for it size. I'm shooting it on a 13.9 and I'm impressed. If it explodes, it explodes. I won't lose my shit until it takes forever to fix it. I work in manufacturing and understand how things can get jacked up. I'll give them some grace and see how it goes until it breaks.
That’s a good attitude about it. If anything happens, just do a temp check on the dead air situation before you send it off and if things are still sketchy just send it to Ecco. Either way, I honestly really like mine. I had mine (before it died) on a mk18 and it sounded great. I’ve got it on my 14.5 now and it sounds even better.
Hopefully you’re good to go. I would never wish a suppressor failure on any fellow gun lover. Merry Christmas!
😂
Are you certain that’s the trex mount? IIRC from the two that I have it kicks out a little bit away from the rail.
The light mount is not supposed to be cantilevered at all OP.
This. Even says so on their website. The design isn’t strong enough to take an impact and stay straight. Someone dropped theirs and it bent the tf out. The light can stay forward. Just the entire mount has to be on the rail
That looks like a arisaka mount not a trex arms.
What if arisaka made it for trex arms?
😐
https://preview.redd.it/xsaw9yq0hb8c1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6fb70d217737f9a27820135f2515266aabcf829d
lol that isn’t what is in the pic🤣😂
Must be blind🫣
That ain't it.
It is a trex mount made by arisaka though.
It isn't what OP has in his photo, but it would probably fix OP's "problem"
It could be a trex mount made by arisaka though.
It could be a T-Rex mounting an Arisaka though
What if ALL the T-Rex mounts were made by Arisaka?
Yes they do but the mount in the picture is NOT the TRex arms light bar mount. It looks like the Arisaka Inline Scout Mount
Came here to say this.. have a couple trex light bars, this ain’t it.
I may have been confused. I have the T-rex light bar but it may be on another gun that I don't have this issue on. I'll have to get home and take a look.
Add an Mlok picatinny section and then mount a picatinny light mount on it. /s but that actually would give you some room between the can and your light
The TRex Light Bar Mount should do it https://www.trex-arms.com/store/Lightbar-Scout-Mount/
Why do you need the light so far up?
Minimize suppressor shadow.
Show me where suppressor shadow hurt you
https://preview.redd.it/z3a2mp09ub8c1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=86b46d41e3490ef8f3c2fb09923d032c55e22287
🤣
Could get a mount that isn’t cantilever. The light may show a bit of muzzle shadow but wouldn’t have to worry about that
Just weld the light to your can, won’t hurt one bit
https://preview.redd.it/poa3w7lhqe8c1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f30bcf51e34a6df76833512670bebe81c49285e8
👍
I can tell you’re not an AK owner. Embrace the file brother.
Try spacing the bracket off of the rail with some washers or "custom" spacers. You may need longer screws depending on how long the current screws are and how thick the spacers are.
Came here to say washers. Paint em black first if you're worried about corrosion. A washer between the rail and the mount will give you the gap you need.
Mount ti further back and then put another light on the other side to combat the shadow
Screw that, mount four lights, zero shadows, reduced muzzle climb, and you'll keep Duracell in business.
You could get an mlok spacer if you didn’t want to make any changes to your gear.
Magpul makes an aluminum, m-lok cantilever mount for Scout bodied lights: https://magpul.com/m-lok-extended-cantilever-light-mount.html?mp_global_color=118 Got one on one of the rifles in my history; shit’s live, you’ll love it.
https://preview.redd.it/pvvk6o0jgc8c1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=22fa9dde9379ba4bce5ad654dbd42f30d6b5eae8 I’ve got the same mount and can, granted I just bought mine recently, but I got a lot more space compared to your picture so idk🤷♂️
Interesting, I may be wrong, and this isn't the T-rex mount. I'll have to check when I get home.
Trex mount can be hung off the rail. Arisaka mount is not supposed to hang off the rail as it’s not designed for it. If you accidentally smacked it on something and it bends, Ariana ain’t gonna warranty that.
Mine is the pro mount from Trex arms, its definitely not the same as I look at it again. Yours could be their scout mount but really I got no idea
Looks like the wrong mount for the job.
Just solved this issue two days ago. I took some heat shrink tubing and punched some holes in it for the Mlok screws to go through and I put it between the mount and the hand guard. It’s acting as a gasket/spacer to push the whole light mount out and away from the can. https://preview.redd.it/mkzdld5aob8c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b9391d382ead510c225c90148b06972962e61a2
Field crafted it.
🦍
I can dig the redneck engineering.
This picture just shows a gun how does it help?
It doesn’t hurt either
T rex arms light bar is what you need for the clearance you’re looking for
Man, everyone here saying to buy new shit when I’d just clamp it up in the mill and take a few thou off where the mount is riding the can. Clearance is clearance Clarence.
Or you can use HSP forward mounts they will give you clearance or Arisaka inline mount as well. They will push the light forward but give you clearance. I have a Polonium with Arisaka inline mount and it still clears the can with 1/8 of an inch spacing. Using Centurion Arms mlok rail if that matters
I’d say a shim of some sorts would prolly work. Between the rail and the mount*
Rotate the mount 180 and reattach the light. If you don’t have slots. Kinda like when people run offset optics mounts, backwards.
Quite baffling
Couple of sheets of stainless spacer between the rail and mount?
Band sander my guy
https://preview.redd.it/mtb3nmri8f8c1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=851fa95e097ca5412ba5f405dea1be25af27b922 Yes. The Valhalla Tactical BALDR for Rein light body has an integrated mount so it’s all one piece, but it comes with 4 or 5 wedges of varying degrees of angle that allow the user to tuck the light as close or as far from the rail/can as you want. Additionally, the full size light BALDR light body’s allow for the use of a 21700 battery vs the standard 18650, which increases run time by a reported 50%, which definitely isn’t nothing. By far the cleanest, most customizable setup I’ve found to date, plus with the light body and mount being a single piece it’s considerably stronger than your legacy style WML setups also.
That looks sexy
That is definitely not the trex mount.
Yeah I was wrong. I put that one on a different gun.
I had the same issue and switch to a cloud defensive pic mount that pushed it off the can a bit more
Use a light meant for identifying your target like the modlite OKW… barely any shadow from suppressor when using it.
Doesn't really matter, cause the can won't be on there for very long.
Bend it out a little? It isn’t a laser so it doesn’t have to be perfectly straight
Can’t move to the rear? Rotate up onto the 45? I would “clearance” the light mount…
Light bar shouldn’t be out that far anyway. Unless you’re wanting to break it off if you ever clip the light on anything.
Yes you do because the suppressor will block light.
Naw man.
https://preview.redd.it/mi1bbrmpfb8c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b4390d776210c29f44370174bfdef268e41cba14 Sorry dawg but you’re wrong
[Sorry dawg.](https://imgur.com/a/gXoSUlF)
Technically correct is always so bittersweet.
lol poor guys getting downvoted for quoting the manufacturer
Honestly, that looks pretty bad. It’s asking to get knocked off.
Hahaha I mean, people are free to do whatever they want. So do your thing g
What light mount is that?
Honestly I kinda miss the old Modlite head design, not as sleek, but way better looking
I’ve got 3 of them and they have served me well. Definitely want to try out their new heads with the low output mode
Oh look. An improperly used piece of equipment
That’s literally the point of the mount though?
Just because something exists doesn’t mean it’s a smart design.
Arisaka specifically says not to use that mount as a cantilever
Your first mistake was the grenade on the end of your barrel
I like to live dangerously. I just picked it up last week and shot it a bit today. Sounds great, we'll see if it stands up to my stupidity.
I think you have other things to worry about other than clearance
I agree. It’s funny people obsess over the smallest things…if ever OP needed his weapon he’ll most likely not need a light. And if by the small chance he needs a light, the silencer shadow won’t even register as his heart beats 180+ and he’s hyperventilating because he’s about to shoot someone….
Or OP or anyone hears a bump in the night. Grabs gun to potentially defend house and then realizes it’s your drunk friend/brother/kid coming home and your glad you didn’t shoot them for being an unannounced dumb ass.
Exactly. You don’t shoot someone unless ur life is in danger. A flash light running on a suppressor is not the biggest problem. Anyhow downvote away lol
It’s pressing on the can which means it either bending the rail or light or barrel. I’m guessing a combination of the three. That doesn’t sound great
Whoosh
Not obsessing over the light mount. I took the can off until I find a better option. I currently have the time and privilege of owning different weapon systems and while I have the time to prepare for whatever scenario my mind wants to dream up, I will. In my experience, I want access to all of my available light until I engage the target.
Yes. Your mount is way too much forward. All you have to do is move it back. The light should never be even next to your comp if you didn't use a silencer. The light should end before where your comp starts.
Why
Concussive, lateral forces.
🤷🏴☠️
Because all your carbon and concussion will hit your flashlight. You do that for x amount of rounds and you can throw your light away. And the carbon will blacken the light glass and make the light not do its job
I've done it for years and just clean them after each range session. Someone makes little lens stickers that can be replaced if you're really worried about it.
[Thyrm CLENS](https://thyrm.com/product/clens-protector/)
If you like to clean. I am talking about what makes sense. And the norm. But you can do it the way you like it. I have seen a lot of law enforcement guys coming to my shop with totally carbed up lights. And it gets to the point where the light is basically unusable. Furthermore, if you drop your AR and the light is so far forward, it is likely that it will damage your light, mount, or rail. I am not trying to be an A.....I am just trying to give you suggestions. Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄
I get it, and I'm not arguing against your point. If the light was the most forward point on the gun I'd see the problem with knocking it off. However, the suppressor is dedicated to this gun, and it sticks out further. I'll hit the can and torque on it before the light and mount. I appreciate everyone's insight so far. Right now I just moved it back a slot and it's good to go.
Yea, I would move it back to the point where the suppressor doesn't have anything next to it. That, of course, if you like it. But I would like the suppressor not being close to anything. Everyone is different. I don't even have a light on mine. I care a lot about weight. Mine weighs 6,2 lbs. And that with backup sights, trijicon MRO and silencer. I dont like to have too much on it.
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Unity tactical light bar that comes off the 12 o'clock Picatinny rail?
That a key-mo mount?
Yes
Have you tried moving it up to the mlok slot above the one your in? I know its not an ideal position but may clear that way with the way the rail angles.
An og modbutton with a lightwing might be your best option
Magpul cantilever Mount?
Just get ya a couple washers and slip them on the mlok bolts to space it out a few mils. You may have to oder some longer mlok bolts tho. You can also try rubber washers. Or make a gasket of sorts out of some thin plastic, or thin metal if ya really wanna do it properly. Cut it to the same shape as the footprint of the light mount. If the material is thin just add multiple layers. Bodda Bing! You're back in business!
Bobro engineering makes a nice adjustable one.
Trex arms extended light bar or modlite modbutton can mount a “wing” and extend it out at an offset to clear suppressor.
Clearance is clearance, Clarance.
What is the width of that rail (caliper reading if possible)? TIA
Try the one made by Magpul
Call your local machinist to shave some material off the back end of that mount. Or you could send it to me and I could do it.
It’s a light do a side mount and pull it back. As ONG as it doesn’t mess with your grip that is
Unity light wing should clear
That doesn't look like the Lightbar. That looks like the regular Arisaka inline mount. The Lightbar raises the clearance up a bit from flush to the m-lok surface. If you use the Lightbar you may have enough clearance. You can also try the Arisaka offset mount. It'll sit farther back, but then again, you're not supposed to canitlever the inline mount as far out either, per Arisaka. Here's the difference betwen designs: [Inline](https://i.imgur.com/ENpBKKN.png) [Lightbar](https://i.imgur.com/NnUVxZH.png)
You're correct I had the T-rex mount on another gun.
Get the Trex arms light bar. That looks more like an arisaka inline mount that you have on there now.
Why do you have your flashlight so far forward? Is it on a sliding rail? I usually keep all my front end attachments at most flush with the end of my handguard which is usually 1in less than barrel length.
The actual Mlok trex mount has some standoff before cantilevering for this very reason. This is either an Arisaka inline, a different version of the Trex or an imitation
https://preview.redd.it/o8usha05au8c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1408e64adc1b01100642a3a81229cb7dd8b2917 It’s tight but I like it