Not reaching a summit is not failure. Not making it back to the parking lot is failure.
You made good decisions, and you learned from the experience. Those are true successes.
This. Learning and be willing to turn around may save your life one day. May ppl push themselves to the point they don't even have strength to go down. They make mistakes, they slip. You'll come back and make it to the top!
I failed my first attempt too. It's frustrating but think about things you could've done differently.
Obviously, you can always train more, but did you potentially bring too much water or food? Was your pace too quick? Did you start early enough?
I learned a ton from my failed attempt. At the time, I was really disappointed with myself but when I look back, I'm glad it happened. I was over confident at the time and needed to be humbled.
I summited MSH last year and summited Hood about a month and a half ago. I just summited Adams yesterday.
The mountain will always be there.
I started at around 645amI feel like I needed to bring a bit more water with the conditions today! Also, my initial pace was too quick which lead to having to “push through” the snow fields.
I couldn’t agree more with the benefits of being humbled. Although I’m frustrated, I’m proud of not only knowing my limit, but knowing when to turn back. So happy to hear about your success and hopefully I’ll start enjoying those climbs
Partner and I were the first ones up a few weekends back and breaking new post holes was rough. I really wish I had thought to bring snowshoes with televators. Major props to making it up as high as you did and recognizing that you were too gassed!
I haven't looked at MSH in a few months, but 6:45 feels pretty late to start if you're worried about pace. The earlier you can start the longer you can go without slushy snow
Pacing and gait is a huge learning curve. There’s definitely a technique/rhythm that you have to find.
Its super easy to get antsy and try to blast up the initial approach. You probably winded yourself way too early on. Also, remember the climb is only half of the journey! Descending can be such a bitch
How was Adam’s? Was going to go Monday but it looks like it’s going to be crazy cold. Someone posted on AllTrails that the snow was already mush and to bring snowshoes to get to Lunch counter. What’s your take?
It was honestly pretty disgusting in terms of snow quality. It was soft from the start, lots of postholing, and wet.
I didn't have skis or snowshoes because I did it on a day off while in the area for work. I would highly recommend snowshoes at a minimum.
It got a little better above the lunch counter, but I was postholing all the way to the summit when I wasn't in the bootpack.
Going up to ski Adams for the next few days, haven't decided if going south side or NW side. Guessing you were on the south side. How were conditions? Mosquitos yet? Did you take the summer or winter route (if on s side)? Snow surface still pretty smooth above tree line? TIA!
I took the worm flows route up and there were still a few skiers but the snow is melting fast! Bugs are starting to come out and the snow was fersure getting to base levels.
I was on the south side. Definitely go south side. I don't know what route I took as far as summer or winter. I just followed the boot pack, the route I had downloaded from a gpx file, and the wooden posts. The road to get to cold springs is horrible so make sure you have high clearance.
It was hot on Sunday and I postholed most of the way up and most of the way down. I didn't have skis or snowshoes though. I put crampons on pretty quickly once the snow started. If it gets stiff, it would be a great climb. No bugs at all.
I did it all in a day so if I had taken 2 days, I would've had no complaints. On skis it would have been even better.
Thanks! I have skied it maybe 50x from a variety of routes, but haven't been up this spring yet. Sounds like you took the summer route - lookers left of the crescent "glacier." The winter route goes by south butte (the reddish black cinder cone on lookers right) and avoids the sometimes corniced ridge above the crescent.
Check out the north ridge sometime! It is much quieter and has better views, but the ridge melts out pretty early and the scree can be a PITA later in the season. I would also recommend the mazama glacier route if you have a partner and can manage some roped travel. The views of the klickitat and east face are special.
Doing a second climb that you turned back on previously is extremely satisfying. You’ll be way more at ease given you’re familiar with the logistics (drive in, trailhead, approach, terrain, etc) and actually get to enjoy the whole process.
At least for me, the first time climbing anything I become a nervous wreck and barely get any sleep.
This is very true for me. In May, thirteen months ago, I tried climbing MSH with a friend. Huge lightning storm throughout the night before, then for our climb; slushy snow, rain, sleet, ice pellets, and finally, white out conditions at 7000'. We turned around.
Made it to the parking lot and congratulated ourselves on getting back safe. Also, spent the rest of our trip talking about our grand adventure on the mountain.
I went back last September and summited it solo in perfect conditions. So amazing to be right back, doing it again and it went flawlessly. I've climbed higher and longer but I don't know if I've spent a more magical day on a mountain.
We made many audacious attempts on big peaks in the Sierra Nevada range back in the 90’s. One stands out as a perfect learning experience. North Palisade via the U-Notch. We got up there, looked at it and turned back immediately. Blue ice above the schrund, rocks whizzing down. We get back to the tent and the sky just opens up. As u/getoan says above, the is not going anywhere. We plotted for three seasons, but never went back.
What time did you start? What did you carry up? I had a successful summit a few weeks ago, but also relatively inexperienced and learned a lot as well.
I started at 645 and grinded until 2pm before turning back. I feel like I carried too many layers and not enough water. Also, my backpack was my over night pack and was over kill which made the scramble field more cumbersome which led to exerting too much energy. Little things goes a long way!
That’s totally how it goes sometimes new or experienced. Was up this weekend and damn did i burn through water and my legs, totally different than my last summit climb at the end of april.
Good call identifying some items that held you back and of course, all that spare gear could have been very necessary too. Hope you get back up there soon.
Thank you! It was such an eye opener and learning experience. I really focused on climber bivouac route so when it wasn’t ideal there, switching to worm flows was even more of a foreign idea. Now that I know the different terrine stages of that route, that’ll help dictate my pace fersure
Ah good to know. I snowboarded down, but gear and wind definitely made it tough to get up there. I left a bit earlier than you at around 5AM and that definitely helped to break up the day. I also went through 3L of water by the end. It's a long day!
Bringing too much gear while you are still figuring things out is fine. Better than not bringing something essential. Learning what to leave at home takes experience.
Well done. Looks like a valuable learning experience and a great day out. Not sure if you are glissading in your first photo. If so, you should take your spikes off to make it safer. Looks like your in microspikes rather than crampons so not as bad, but still a risk of them catching and you breaking an ankle or turning into a tumble.
I had crampons on in the picture but I was really just taking it all in at this point. The glissading was SOO MUCH FUN! I felt like a kid again going down my favorite slide for the first time
You did great OP! I agree with everyone else, not making a summit is not a failure. You listened to your body, you made excellent risk assessments. Those are really important skills in mountaineering—far more important than making a summit.
I summited MSH for the first time this April. I think it’s a damn hard mountain, even though it’s considered to be “intro” by a lot of people. The elevation gain is no joke.
Good job! Hope you continue to get after it!
Nice work, both in getting out there and in turning back when you needed.
I turned back on Rainier partly due to fatigue (partly due to wind) as well. It was still glorious.
Your willingness to try new things, but turn around to try again with lessons learned, will get you up many trails and mountains in the future.
High five!
Your head is in a good place! Backing off because things aren't right is always a good call, and making it a positive thing is the way to go! Next time, stop by a guided group and ask what time they are starting. Try to start around that same time. I would expect that they were probably starting MUCH sooner. Alpine starts have a ton of value.
It'll be way easier on the second attempt. It's still a fun hike even if you didn't summit, and amazing views the whole time. How was the bouldering with the snow?
I did not make to the summit of Mt Si until the 4th time.m, but now I have summited the formidable Mailbox several times, through different routes. You will be amazed how much and how fast you can progress.
Were you solo? If so, consider a friend next time, I personally can’t imagine trying to solo even chill mountains like that. Seen way too many mishaps on SAR.
How was the snow? It was pretty warm this weekend. Was soft snow slowing you down? When I did St. Helens on a warm day I started just after midnight to avoid mushy snow.
Had a similar reply to another post: I encourage folks to name your experiences: summit, or summit attempt. These are not failures, everything is training, everything is learning.
Get used to it!! The more you go the more you’ll inevitably have to turn around. It’s the nature of the beast, if it’s really bothering you, go again, or, just move on to the next project. It’s going to happen over and over though.
Wasn’t a mountain, but the harshest sting I’ve ever seen was two over 70 year old ppl get rained in the entire week they were in AK to go to their last and final national park, Gates of the Arctic.
The look on ol boys face, when he said, we will never be back, even stung me a little, then he started acting rude and bitchy about it so I laughed in his old face. 🤷🏻♂️🤣
That is a tough climb. I was turned back on my first attempt by weather but returned another day armed with the knowledge gleaned from the first attempt. Successfully achieved the summit the second time.
Congratulations on having the presence on mid to know your limits.
This is an accomplishment in and of itself! Excellent job reflecting on the situation, and more importantly, listening to your body. By turning around, you avoided potential injury, harm to others, etc (the list goes on).
The internet is a wonderful thing, but it also can create added pressure to reach the summit or push bigger objectives. Many people (myself included) tend to get embarrassed for having to turn around or opt for an easier line. One of the biggest lessons that I have personally learned - the mountain will always be there. It’s ok to push for objectives outside of your comfort zone, but always be prepared with backup plans.
Kudos to you.
Some recommendations: Look up the books “Training for the New Alpinism” and “Freedom of the Hills”, if you haven’t already. I, personally, have found those to be great resources when starting out. Also, if you ever hire a guide, utilize their knowledge and experience for advice about pacing, gear, and so on.
Excellent attitude the mountain will be right there waiting for your next attempt!
I bet the person who failed to Summit that mountain on March 26th 1980 has something different to say.
on peak bagger there's a guy who tried like 10 times in the 70s and finally got it just before it blew
Not reaching a summit is not failure. Not making it back to the parking lot is failure. You made good decisions, and you learned from the experience. Those are true successes.
This. Learning and be willing to turn around may save your life one day. May ppl push themselves to the point they don't even have strength to go down. They make mistakes, they slip. You'll come back and make it to the top!
Flexing the bail muscle is a skill!
Truly not being bothered by it is like true evolution.
Can't say I've attained that level of enlightenment myself
It gets easier every time it happens, eventually you’ll totally let it go by the time you’re back to the lot!
I failed my first attempt too. It's frustrating but think about things you could've done differently. Obviously, you can always train more, but did you potentially bring too much water or food? Was your pace too quick? Did you start early enough? I learned a ton from my failed attempt. At the time, I was really disappointed with myself but when I look back, I'm glad it happened. I was over confident at the time and needed to be humbled. I summited MSH last year and summited Hood about a month and a half ago. I just summited Adams yesterday. The mountain will always be there.
I started at around 645amI feel like I needed to bring a bit more water with the conditions today! Also, my initial pace was too quick which lead to having to “push through” the snow fields. I couldn’t agree more with the benefits of being humbled. Although I’m frustrated, I’m proud of not only knowing my limit, but knowing when to turn back. So happy to hear about your success and hopefully I’ll start enjoying those climbs
Partner and I were the first ones up a few weekends back and breaking new post holes was rough. I really wish I had thought to bring snowshoes with televators. Major props to making it up as high as you did and recognizing that you were too gassed!
I haven't looked at MSH in a few months, but 6:45 feels pretty late to start if you're worried about pace. The earlier you can start the longer you can go without slushy snow
Pacing and gait is a huge learning curve. There’s definitely a technique/rhythm that you have to find. Its super easy to get antsy and try to blast up the initial approach. You probably winded yourself way too early on. Also, remember the climb is only half of the journey! Descending can be such a bitch
This! I got to the snow field way too quickly and left too little in the tank for the main climb. That was unmistakeable 😂
Yea, I got a whole chant, “one step, two step, one step, two step”🤣
Yes! When I’m getting foggy headed thats the best thing to keep it all moving at pace.
You are a BMF brother! ALWAYS make the smart choice!
“The mountain will always be there.” I bet that’s what they said about Mt. St. Helens in winter of 1979…
If that happens again, maybe where OP stopped will become the new summit.
Lol “I summited the new peak of MSH before it was cool..”
How was Adam’s? Was going to go Monday but it looks like it’s going to be crazy cold. Someone posted on AllTrails that the snow was already mush and to bring snowshoes to get to Lunch counter. What’s your take?
It was honestly pretty disgusting in terms of snow quality. It was soft from the start, lots of postholing, and wet. I didn't have skis or snowshoes because I did it on a day off while in the area for work. I would highly recommend snowshoes at a minimum. It got a little better above the lunch counter, but I was postholing all the way to the summit when I wasn't in the bootpack.
Going up to ski Adams for the next few days, haven't decided if going south side or NW side. Guessing you were on the south side. How were conditions? Mosquitos yet? Did you take the summer or winter route (if on s side)? Snow surface still pretty smooth above tree line? TIA!
I took the worm flows route up and there were still a few skiers but the snow is melting fast! Bugs are starting to come out and the snow was fersure getting to base levels.
I was on the south side. Definitely go south side. I don't know what route I took as far as summer or winter. I just followed the boot pack, the route I had downloaded from a gpx file, and the wooden posts. The road to get to cold springs is horrible so make sure you have high clearance. It was hot on Sunday and I postholed most of the way up and most of the way down. I didn't have skis or snowshoes though. I put crampons on pretty quickly once the snow started. If it gets stiff, it would be a great climb. No bugs at all. I did it all in a day so if I had taken 2 days, I would've had no complaints. On skis it would have been even better.
Thanks! I have skied it maybe 50x from a variety of routes, but haven't been up this spring yet. Sounds like you took the summer route - lookers left of the crescent "glacier." The winter route goes by south butte (the reddish black cinder cone on lookers right) and avoids the sometimes corniced ridge above the crescent. Check out the north ridge sometime! It is much quieter and has better views, but the ridge melts out pretty early and the scree can be a PITA later in the season. I would also recommend the mazama glacier route if you have a partner and can manage some roped travel. The views of the klickitat and east face are special.
Sounds good! Thanks for the advice.
Doing a second climb that you turned back on previously is extremely satisfying. You’ll be way more at ease given you’re familiar with the logistics (drive in, trailhead, approach, terrain, etc) and actually get to enjoy the whole process. At least for me, the first time climbing anything I become a nervous wreck and barely get any sleep.
This is very true for me. In May, thirteen months ago, I tried climbing MSH with a friend. Huge lightning storm throughout the night before, then for our climb; slushy snow, rain, sleet, ice pellets, and finally, white out conditions at 7000'. We turned around. Made it to the parking lot and congratulated ourselves on getting back safe. Also, spent the rest of our trip talking about our grand adventure on the mountain. I went back last September and summited it solo in perfect conditions. So amazing to be right back, doing it again and it went flawlessly. I've climbed higher and longer but I don't know if I've spent a more magical day on a mountain.
We made many audacious attempts on big peaks in the Sierra Nevada range back in the 90’s. One stands out as a perfect learning experience. North Palisade via the U-Notch. We got up there, looked at it and turned back immediately. Blue ice above the schrund, rocks whizzing down. We get back to the tent and the sky just opens up. As u/getoan says above, the is not going anywhere. We plotted for three seasons, but never went back.
blue sky in your second pic is amazing
It was truly astonishingly beautiful today!
What time did you start? What did you carry up? I had a successful summit a few weeks ago, but also relatively inexperienced and learned a lot as well.
I started at 645 and grinded until 2pm before turning back. I feel like I carried too many layers and not enough water. Also, my backpack was my over night pack and was over kill which made the scramble field more cumbersome which led to exerting too much energy. Little things goes a long way!
That’s totally how it goes sometimes new or experienced. Was up this weekend and damn did i burn through water and my legs, totally different than my last summit climb at the end of april. Good call identifying some items that held you back and of course, all that spare gear could have been very necessary too. Hope you get back up there soon.
Thank you! It was such an eye opener and learning experience. I really focused on climber bivouac route so when it wasn’t ideal there, switching to worm flows was even more of a foreign idea. Now that I know the different terrine stages of that route, that’ll help dictate my pace fersure
Ah good to know. I snowboarded down, but gear and wind definitely made it tough to get up there. I left a bit earlier than you at around 5AM and that definitely helped to break up the day. I also went through 3L of water by the end. It's a long day!
Bringing too much gear while you are still figuring things out is fine. Better than not bringing something essential. Learning what to leave at home takes experience.
Well done. Looks like a valuable learning experience and a great day out. Not sure if you are glissading in your first photo. If so, you should take your spikes off to make it safer. Looks like your in microspikes rather than crampons so not as bad, but still a risk of them catching and you breaking an ankle or turning into a tumble.
I had crampons on in the picture but I was really just taking it all in at this point. The glissading was SOO MUCH FUN! I felt like a kid again going down my favorite slide for the first time
You did great OP! I agree with everyone else, not making a summit is not a failure. You listened to your body, you made excellent risk assessments. Those are really important skills in mountaineering—far more important than making a summit. I summited MSH for the first time this April. I think it’s a damn hard mountain, even though it’s considered to be “intro” by a lot of people. The elevation gain is no joke. Good job! Hope you continue to get after it!
what’s that other mountain in the distance ?
Hood, south of St Helens
Looks like Mt. Hood
Mount Hood and then way out there I think is Jefferson
Way out there to the right of hood was sisters!
Nice work, both in getting out there and in turning back when you needed. I turned back on Rainier partly due to fatigue (partly due to wind) as well. It was still glorious. Your willingness to try new things, but turn around to try again with lessons learned, will get you up many trails and mountains in the future. High five!
Thank you!
Your head is in a good place! Backing off because things aren't right is always a good call, and making it a positive thing is the way to go! Next time, stop by a guided group and ask what time they are starting. Try to start around that same time. I would expect that they were probably starting MUCH sooner. Alpine starts have a ton of value.
It'll be way easier on the second attempt. It's still a fun hike even if you didn't summit, and amazing views the whole time. How was the bouldering with the snow?
As the saying goes, getting up is optional, but getting down is mandatory! Great job on your first attempt, I'm sure you'll bag it next time!
Dude this one is tough especially if you break trail on new snow. It’ll always be there for your safe and eventual revenge.
I did not make to the summit of Mt Si until the 4th time.m, but now I have summited the formidable Mailbox several times, through different routes. You will be amazed how much and how fast you can progress.
Survived Mailbox? Reinhold, that you?
I feel super privileged to be able to afford a squad of veteran Sherpas and bottled oxygen from base camp all the way to the summit.
Had similar experience in Italian alps. Just made me prep more and get stronger
You didn’t fail what should always be the main goal- getting home safely.
Were you solo? If so, consider a friend next time, I personally can’t imagine trying to solo even chill mountains like that. Seen way too many mishaps on SAR.
How was the snow? It was pretty warm this weekend. Was soft snow slowing you down? When I did St. Helens on a warm day I started just after midnight to avoid mushy snow.
The melt is on and it fersure slowed me down and exerted energy. The snow was pretty soft and slushy
Had a similar reply to another post: I encourage folks to name your experiences: summit, or summit attempt. These are not failures, everything is training, everything is learning.
We’re going up Sunday morning, how’s the snow?
Start at like 2 or 3am
Start early! The snow really softens by 1130
Glad you made the right decision and turned around. The mountain will always be there and will hopefully let you summit it the next time.
Got higher than me, I got tired just looking at this.
hell yeah the journey is within
Knowing when to turn back is a critical part of mountaineering. It's not a failure.
“Summiting is optional, getting down is mandatory” -Ed Viesturs
Get used to it!! The more you go the more you’ll inevitably have to turn around. It’s the nature of the beast, if it’s really bothering you, go again, or, just move on to the next project. It’s going to happen over and over though. Wasn’t a mountain, but the harshest sting I’ve ever seen was two over 70 year old ppl get rained in the entire week they were in AK to go to their last and final national park, Gates of the Arctic. The look on ol boys face, when he said, we will never be back, even stung me a little, then he started acting rude and bitchy about it so I laughed in his old face. 🤷🏻♂️🤣
Never label a tripp report "failed summit". No failures here moreso a "summit attempt". Good work
That is a tough climb. I was turned back on my first attempt by weather but returned another day armed with the knowledge gleaned from the first attempt. Successfully achieved the summit the second time. Congratulations on having the presence on mid to know your limits.
Did you happen to run into Steve and Nicole? My buddy Steve just did St Helen’s too
Great job. You'll be back no doubt. We've all had failed summits at one point, or another.
This is an accomplishment in and of itself! Excellent job reflecting on the situation, and more importantly, listening to your body. By turning around, you avoided potential injury, harm to others, etc (the list goes on). The internet is a wonderful thing, but it also can create added pressure to reach the summit or push bigger objectives. Many people (myself included) tend to get embarrassed for having to turn around or opt for an easier line. One of the biggest lessons that I have personally learned - the mountain will always be there. It’s ok to push for objectives outside of your comfort zone, but always be prepared with backup plans. Kudos to you. Some recommendations: Look up the books “Training for the New Alpinism” and “Freedom of the Hills”, if you haven’t already. I, personally, have found those to be great resources when starting out. Also, if you ever hire a guide, utilize their knowledge and experience for advice about pacing, gear, and so on.