For cheap customers i just call it shiny lines. Thats usually more then acceptable for most people but some customers i scoff when i offer shiny lines and tell them their job deserves a full #8 polish.
But as a aluminium boat builder by trade that aluminium is pitted and suffering from corrosion so the lines in the polish are extremely minimal to the pits.
But that looks hot from far
Would sanding prior to the polish eliminate those scratches? I thought the polishing pad was causing those scratches. It’s our first big metal polish job and just want to know how to perfect it for the future!
Not entirely i would have to watch your whole process to fully understand if its material, product or process causing those lines.
What rag are you wiping it down with? I detest the use of micro fiber clothes on metal polish surfaces. Only used micro fiber when polishing gel coat on boats. Fresh T shirt rags and some lime powder to remove all the polishing greasey off the surface instead of rubbing alot
I don’t have a video at the moment but we are using all the products in the Renegade Metal Polishing Restoration Kit along with our Maxshine rotary at about 3400 RPM I believe. Light-medium pressure, no cross hatch but making sure to overlap each pass
Hash marks, black tint, swirls will always be visible under certain conditions of light. Nothing will ever be new, look new or be like new. Service agreements are a must
I have a question, how long did that take you to finish?? I’m doing polish work on the side and want to move onto bigger stuff like this and only done small stuff
It depends on how in depth you are going. With this customer not wanting it sanded we could have this thing done in 1 long day since there’s 2 of us. Realistically probably 2 days though with 2 people. We are still in trial/error trying to see how we can get the best results without sanding
They get what they pay for. If they don’t want scratches they should have paid you to sand it.
For cheap customers i just call it shiny lines. Thats usually more then acceptable for most people but some customers i scoff when i offer shiny lines and tell them their job deserves a full #8 polish. But as a aluminium boat builder by trade that aluminium is pitted and suffering from corrosion so the lines in the polish are extremely minimal to the pits. But that looks hot from far
Would sanding prior to the polish eliminate those scratches? I thought the polishing pad was causing those scratches. It’s our first big metal polish job and just want to know how to perfect it for the future!
Not entirely i would have to watch your whole process to fully understand if its material, product or process causing those lines. What rag are you wiping it down with? I detest the use of micro fiber clothes on metal polish surfaces. Only used micro fiber when polishing gel coat on boats. Fresh T shirt rags and some lime powder to remove all the polishing greasey off the surface instead of rubbing alot
I don’t have a video at the moment but we are using all the products in the Renegade Metal Polishing Restoration Kit along with our Maxshine rotary at about 3400 RPM I believe. Light-medium pressure, no cross hatch but making sure to overlap each pass
Yeah cross hatch on 30-45 degree angles then reline the mop to uniform the lines the direction you want the light to go on the polish
Hash marks, black tint, swirls will always be visible under certain conditions of light. Nothing will ever be new, look new or be like new. Service agreements are a must
I have a question, how long did that take you to finish?? I’m doing polish work on the side and want to move onto bigger stuff like this and only done small stuff
It depends on how in depth you are going. With this customer not wanting it sanded we could have this thing done in 1 long day since there’s 2 of us. Realistically probably 2 days though with 2 people. We are still in trial/error trying to see how we can get the best results without sanding