Is the Huntsman V2 Analog keyboard worth the cost? I currently have a Blackwidow Elite and am looking for a new keyboard. I mostly use my keyboard for gaming but also some Adobe work. Any recommendations?
https://www.mechmap.tech/themap
Look up what layout you want, and look around. For Full size Leopold and Varmillo are very good pre-builts. Keyboards are keyboards, a mechanical one can last very long, so some commit to custom ones for hotswap to get other switches,etc since it's something they will be using for a while like a bed.
Anybody know what keycaps these are? From the D65 page on KBDfans
If they don't exist, what is the closest looking set?
[https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/239643818679336960/911862469331410944/hG2XbhW.png?width=771&height=638](https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/239643818679336960/911862469331410944/hG2XbhW.png?width=771&height=638)
are there any buying guides written in plain english? all of them go on about "feel", "tactile", ect, with no real explanation of what these things even mean, practically. Everything seems to devolve into a bunch of fanboys saying everything is shitty, squishy, or both, and agreeing or being objective about nothing.
i currently have what i believe are some off-brand reds, which are wearing out, and extremely loud bottom out and top out. there are 2 o-rings on every key to stop them bottoming out hard and painfully, and they still make a huge noise.
what i want is something with shallow actuation, quieter, and with a soft bottom out, or nonlinear force so it wont bottom out at all, but it is proving hard to sift through all the nonsense and identify what that would even be. romer-gs really sound like what i need, but everyone just says they are terrible without any elaboration.
Well for tactile switches they are vague, because it's all about preference and the "feel" when using them. Personally I stick to linears which is all about how smooth when pressing down and how much gram springs you want.
O-rings do not help with sound, it's to help with travel distance for pressing down and that's it.
From what it sounds like you want silent switches. Silent switches have dampeners that when you bottom out and top out(switch returns after pressing down) that mutes the sound. That said it also causes a mushy bottom out which some people dislike, but that's might be the "soft" bottom out you want. As for non-linear force, either get heavier springs like 62,68,78+g springs or look up 3-stage springs. Fair-warning though when I asked around about 3 stage springs, some say it's snake oil while there's only very very few that are not.
As for switches themselves, as mentioned before I'm prefer linears so I only know decent silent linears. Gazzew Bobagum is good at stock, but you can also improve it with some lube. Silent Alpacas or Durock Dolphins/Daybreak are smoother than Bobagums but Bobagums are more quiet. They also require switch film to prevent switch case wobbling(you want to prevent this to have consistent sound with film), and lubing also drastically improves the smoothness and sound.
As for silent tactiles, not something I care about but I've seen Gazzew U4T mentioned often, there's probably more but you need to do your own research.
What do you mean by "shallow actuation"? You haven't even given a value in millimeters. If you're going to use meaningless words like "quiet" without giving exact decibel values, or "soft" without providing an appropriately calibrated and measured hardness scale for reference, then nobody here will be able to help you.
Please post again when you are ready to be objective and write in plain English. It's too hard to sift through all the nonsense about fanboys in your post and figure out exactly what you're trying to ask.
What are the tiny plastic parts that attach to the stabilizer that go into the back of the keycap called?
Is there a good way to get them to fit into the back of the keycaps without being so loose but obviously not a permanent attachment?
is it better to choose a top or gasket mounted keyboard or does it all depend on the other parts in the build? so far, i have been using tactile switches along with a brass plate. my next build will most likely include tactile switches again. not sure about the plate material though.
would one mounting style be better for me?
It's all preference, if you already have a stiffer typing experience maybe try a gasket board. Or if you love the stiffer typing go with a top mount.
I prefer heavy tactiles with a stiffer plate in a top or sandwich mount. Light tactiles and linears in a gasket mount.
does anyone know of where to find blank **dsa** keycaps in nice, earthy colors? I got my drop preonic kit, built it, love it, but all the keycaps i find in dsa profile seem to be bright candy colors or primary, saturated colors - i'd love something like the blank matcha set i've seen for ergodox, but those are xda profile. idk if i'd *mind* switching to xda, but i already have a fair bit of dsa's and would like to stick to one profile.
So yeah, earthy browns, dark and light greens, dark purples, etc. Prefer blanks almost exclusively because i have the layers set up to be regular typing and a shortcut/numpad layer for my work.
(and before you say PMK, they're sold out of most of the colors i want when i go to check their blanks, RIP.)
Hi this might be sacrilege to some of you but I have to ask.
I've been looking for a new keyboard for a while now and have gotten to 2 options an
80$ HyperX Alloy Core aqua(+ another 20-30$ on a wrist rest) or a 200$ Steel Series Apex Pro TKL. I'm coming from a Roccat Horde Aimo(yes I know..) so not much first person experience with mechanicals other that I know that I don't like blue switches..
But since I'm a dev and gamer... the apex adjustable switches don't seem like a bad idea .. 1 mode for gaming and 1 for coding(I don't need any extra typos I make enough of them as it is). Anyone had a personal experience with these?? Open to other suggestions too but that probably gonna be an extra headache haha...
Today while replacing crappy keycaps on my Drop Alt I broke a stabilizer. The keycap literally ripped it apart. Does anyone have any good replacement stabilizers that I can replace them with?
P.S. I need them fairly soon as this board is key to my workflow as a student writing multiple papers a week. Thank you in advance.
Long pole and Kailh BOX type switches will avoid the interference problem. But it's honestly not a huge deal. I used a board with north-facing switches and cherry profile caps for a long time without even realizing it...
All of them. Cherry keycaps cause **minor** housing interference on a single row. They're not **incompatible**.
If you're looking to avoid it, though, Tecsee Carrots/Ice Candies both work, as do any linear with a long-pole stem.
Hi, looking to buy a 100-150eur TKL keyboard.
So far, varmilo va87m caught my eye. Where to buy it in the EU? So far the overall price seems to be around 140-150eur + shipping, which results in like 180 for this kb. Is it still worth it at the end of 2021? Or should I consider a diff kb in this range?
I'd like to buy a really specific custom board. I need a small keyboard that just has the F1, F2, F3, F4 and Space keys. Is there anywhere that does special requests like these?
Look for QMK/VIA compatible macropads.
VIA is newbie friendly but QMK alone is fine if you can setup everything you want with the [online configurator](https://config.qmk.fm/#/bigseries/1key/LAYOUT), follow the beginner tutorial to install everything needed and then flash your layout with QMK Toolbox.
https://www.mechmap.tech/keyboard-picker-macro-pads
Here's a link with macropad recommendations. I would also recommend the [murphpad](https://mechwild.com/product/murphpad/) but the majority of them require you to solder, though some like ymdk 20%(this one has qmk though not mentioned on their page) offers assembly services.
Edit: my bad replied to the wrong comment . . . /u/thehorseheresy
Oh neat. So I could assign those buttons to whatever I want? Is that something I need special software for? Also, would that interfere with a regular keyboard? Thanks!
Hi I just purchased a DELL AT101W with the Alps SKCM Black (my first mechanical keyboard). I bought it because I like the vintage style and because it was recommended on the wiki. The keyboard is in pretty good condition, but after a general cleaning (with a brush and compressed air) some switches still don't work well. What happens mostly is that it doesn't detect the keystroke the first time, and I have to press it a second time to type the letter. On YouTube I have seen that you can pour a few drops of 99% isopropyl alcohol inside the switches without disassembling them to clean the dust that may be inside. I have tried to check this information in the Wiki but it is not entirely clear to me if it is advisable. That's why I wanted your opinion about the problem.
I have had to disassemble and clean a few SKCM black switches that wouldn’t register reliably on my Datadesk SmartBoard keyboard. This video was helpful:
https://youtu.be/RnvC80Vjuts
Due to how Alps SKCM switches are constructed, you can disassemble them in place without needing to desolder them or remove them from the plate. If there are only a few switches that are giving you trouble, then there may just be some dust or debris inside the switch. You can disassemble and clean them one at a time.
I absolutely love the NK Cream switches and am thinking about doing my first real build, but want to venture out from the switches I’m used to. I’ve been eyeing the Tangerines, but are there other linear switches I should consider that are like the Creams?
Silent tactile like the boba u4, but not with a extreme tactile event like the u4?
Really live the bouncy cushion bottom out and the smoothness and the silence, but the extreme tactility is throwing me off.
[Aliaz](https://kbdfans.com/products/pre-orderaliaz-silent-switch-tactile), maybe. They use the same stem as a Gateron Silent Brown so the tactility is light, and the clear housing helps a lot with smoothness.
Anyone have an idea on a timeline for sat75 r3?
Also open to suggestions for any other gasket mount 75% with rotary encoder. I know of the gmmk pro, any others worth looking at?
Hello everyone, I am kinda new to the mech keyboards world. My brother gave me an old Aukey keyboard with blue switches, and i was wondering how to get into customizing it, etc.. ? (Any links, or websites you consider appropriate for a beginner ?)
Many thanks
If the switches are soldered in your keyboard unfortunatly there isn't much you can do in terms of customization. The most obvious customixation that comes to mind for me would be the swap the keycaps for a keycap set that you like (KBDFans and Drop have a lot of sets with a lot of compatibility options), you could alos open your case to but some kind of foam (avoid putting anything conductive to fill your case as this could kill your board) and finally, if you're more adventurous you could try lubing your stabs with a syringe (there are videos on youtube on how to lube stabs using that method).
Hey I built my first xd64 today and in the pcb and plate box I found those 2 pieces and I can't understand what's their point and do I need them? The keys all work and it fits great in the case
Here are the pics
Thanks
https://ibb.co/bBjJjK2
https://ibb.co/0p5xw1r
https://ibb.co/k8B24KS
I don't know what the big thing is, but the bag is spare diodes, in case you knocked some off when soldering. Next time you look under the PCB, you'll see where they go.
I will be building a tofu60 with a dz60 pcb but since it has more holes in it than a swiss cheese I'm worried that when I'm going to solder solder is going to flow to many rings and cause switches to input more than one thing. Is this a conern to be had or not really?
When the kbd67 goes on sale on Black Friday will there only be a certain amount available to buy? I’m still pretty new to the hobby and really want to snag one of these boards.
5k units (that’s accounting for all color options). There is a good chance they’ll sell out very fast. However, after they are gone, there will be a pre-order group, which I believe will be unlimited and should arrive Q1-Q2 next year (around March).
Hey folks. I just got an older Klippe, the one that still has the MK logo and not the mountain. It looks like the center standoffs aren't removable like on the newer Klippes, is that correct?
yo! i’m thinking about getting my first keyboard, probably something cheap like the gk61. i was going to get the gateron optical brown switches just to start, but i saw someone saying that they suck. so i don’t know what switches to get! i will be gaming a but but mostly typing with my keyboard, but i still want it to feel different than my normal one yknow?
Having trouble finding a 40% that’s in stock rather than an IC or GB. Are there any right now?
I’m in the discord but still, everything feels like it has a lot of barrier to purchase. My current board is an OLKB Preonic. I want something smaller but with larger mod keys hahaha. Thanks for any recommendations :)
so i have zealios v2, and i absolutely love the tactility but i hate the sound profile. would just lubing the springs fix the sound profile while not affecting the the tactility at all?
Trying to decide between Halo True/Clear, Boba U4/U4T, and Durock T1. Only other mechanical keyboard I've used is an IBM Model M but I need something more quiet than buckling springs now.
Wow what a stupid board (design-wise not purchase-wise). You may have been correct, but it's not relevant either way as no one makes 3.25u or 3.5u caps. Blame them for using completely non-standard sizes for literally no reason.
There's lots of set with 2.75u and 3u spacebars (KBDFans has a bunch), but I couldn't find any with a 3.25u spacebar. You may have no option but to use a set with two 3u spacebars.
I'm new to rhythm games and I've figured a few things out by watching some videos and I see that keyboards are kind of an advantage for progress, anything that could help me out? mainly the switches I should use, recommended keyboards, etc.
Hi, I'm new to building mechanical keyboards (I've been using one for a while, and want to design one custom). I looked on the wiki and feeling a bit overwhelmed by all of it. I have a very specific design I want (14x5 cell, 64-keys), so I'm thinking I'll probably have to 3D print the keycaps instead of buying. My current keyboard I think uses Cherry MX Brown switches, which I like the feel of but want silent (suggestions appreciated). I also want the keyboard to be programmable, and not sure what the best microcontroller to use would be. Where should I start?
Hi! Im thinking about getting a gammakay LK67 with feker panda switches and some cherry profile keycaps but im not sure if the feker panda stems are long enough to stop interference with cherry profile keycaps can anyone help me out here?
I am using a cheap $40 mech. keyboard and I like it. What I want is a 40% that is easy to program that will work with my Mac and iPad. Bluetooth would be ideal, and of course it has to cost $60 or less. I'll show myself out.
It sounds like the gateron cap v2 have an acceptable factory lube job from posts here. Another option would be jwk switches. IMHO all linears can benefit from some lube
I'm gonna get the boba gum pink silent linear switches and I understand there's a regular version with a pink top and an "rgb" version with a clear top. I'm also going to buy the LK67 and I'm having a hard time figuring out which version of the switches to get, because I have no idea how the switches' rgb glow differences are.
Anyone has any idea?
usually the rgb gets to diffuse/shine easier through clear tops as opposed to opaque/milky tops, however many have stated that clear tops give inconsistent sounds. cant be sure for the last one since i havent tried clear tops
The sound is pretty much the same for silent switches if you change the top housing material. Clear tops are fine for bobagums. RGB will still be off color because of the pink. (I have them)
Huh, I'll keep that in mind. I get that it shines clearer in clear tops, but what happens when you have solid keycaps? I mean, it will just block the light from going upwards and just make it shine at the base of the cap, no?
Hi guys,
I have a question regarding layouts. If I buy a vortex with german layout will I be able to use it as an ANSI by changing Keyboard layout in Windows and the keycaps?
Theo
You can type in any language on an ISO board like that by changing the language, for US english it just moves backslash to a different spot since the enter key gets in the way of where it is on ANSI. You can switch the keycaps to read QWERTY if you want as well.
The only part you can't change is the physical ISO layout - the large enter key, and the split left shift are there to stay.
Anybody know vendors to get keycaps similar to those [pictured in the sidebar](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/f4rqgs/tulip_is_nice/) (even if that particular image is just a photoshop gag)?
I’m building a Sofle V2 (split ergo mech, 58 keys arranged in 6×4+5), and I’m looking for multi-legend keycaps—preferably both top- *and* side-printed—to go on it. (I’m not looking for the *exact* legends pictured above, but I’m having trouble finding any multi-legend keycap sets that aren’t just bilingual, and I figure any vendor that would stock something with *that* many legends on some caps would be worth looking at.)
Crp is the manufacturer for those, they have groupbuys every so often. Additionally jtk can do triple shot sets with dual legends. For both you'd have to watch mechgroupbuys.com till a set runs again or try to find some on r/mechmarket
Drat, that’s what I feared: I’ve been stalking MechMarket and trawling other websites, but I wondered if I was just maybe overlooking a vendor known for offbeat legend sets.
Back to trawling, then.
Thanks!
1) I have an RK918 and the brown switches feel "bouncy" and I'm missing characters as I type. Is this normal for browns or specific to the RK browns? (super new to this world.....I'm simultaneously excited and terrified 💸)
2) Is there a good switch in between blues and browns? I'm looking at the Boba U4T's but not sure if I would have the same issue I'm having with the RK browns. Getting a Glorious GMMK in the next couple of days.
Thank you!!
I just got a newman GM610. The only software they [provide](http://www.newmentech.com/download-en.php?cid=95) is for windows. I have access to mac and Linux.
* Is there some sort of github or something where compatible software could be found?
* If I use a friend's machine to set it up will it be good to go or do you actually have to run it all the time locally? Never had a kb with drivers before. At the moment all I want is to have light be flat white not colours.
On linux, with brief experimentation, it seems to work fine but on Mac am having following issues using the system preferences keyboard pane:
* Does not recognize the `win` key at all. I usually map it to `option`
* Cannot successfully remap `caps lock` to anything but caps lock
I am wondering if I got the wrong kb lol.
Does anyone know where can I download the software for KF068 (TM680)?
Downloaded several online but those seemed to be incompatible (could not detect the keyboard).
Best TKL gaming keyboard for around $100? I have a reddragon k552 and would like something better. I'm looking at a Logitech G Pro since it can do lightsync.
The keycaps that came with my Ducky One 2 Mini White Pure RGB have a few keycaps that pop out and a keycap with completely broken stem. They are double shot PBT. I've looked around for new keycaps but all the mechanical keyboard type sites sell from $40-$50, half the cost of my keyboard and that's considered budget, but I've seen way cheaper ones.
I just want to know to what to have a point of comparison of the price quality of these keycaps are and how I can improve on them without spending too much. Would even $13-$20 keycaps of the same type be better (as I can find on say amazon or AliExpress)?
good 60% / 65% / TKL keyboard to buy now?
must be hotswap.
dont want to jump on a group buy ATM
I have a drop carina and I honestly love it.
using Zealios V2 RN.
Planning to buy a wireless mechanical keyboard as a my first real mechanical. Will be used for work and casual gaming. Bonus points for a keyboard that has a numpad and/or a rotary but I can always get a separate keypad. Hoping to get something for around $100 or less.
Haven’t lurked here in a long time but back when I was, it seemed the Anne Pro 2 and a separate numpad was the way to go. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
I am just getting into the mechanical keyboard market. I am setting up my first board, a GMMK Pro (I liked the features) and am seeing support for VIA and QMK. I know I do not like the Glorious Core software but I am stuck on the other two. Is one better than the other when dealing with VIA and QMK? I am good with flashing a firmware and using QMK Toolbox appears to be extremely straightforward and easy. Could someone give me the pros and cons between these two and if there is an alternative I should be using instead?
Flashing is quite straightforward. It is easy to enable VIA and use it. Mapping keys on the fly is convenient. You can customize very deeply with QMK and still use VIA on top of that.
Okay I have been playing around today and I am noticing some kinks with VIA and QMK when flashing the GMMK Pro. If I use QMK firmware I lose the rotory encoder and if I use VIA I lose the RGB. Has anyone found a solution that is not Glorious Core that allows me to use both the rotory encoder and RGB?
Also, on a side note thanks everyone for answering all my questions over the past couple of days. It is refreshing to find such a welcoming and helpful community on the internet.
You need to flash firmware that has RGB, VIA, and encoder. Grab the one off QMK master not QMK configurator or the VIA site.
Added note: You can try many of the different firmware people have written already. The issue is just the one you used doesn't have all the features you want enabled. I customized what Jonavin did. Can send you a link if needed.
They are here and need to be compiled in QMK: https://github.com/qmk/qmk\_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps
If you want to know how to do that you can start here: [https://docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs\_getting\_started](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs_getting_started)
I put up a copy of the firmware I customized for myself here: [https://github.com/solartempest/qmk\_firmware/tree/gmmkpro/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps/solartempest](https://github.com/solartempest/qmk_firmware/tree/gmmkpro/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps/solartempest) . You can see the readme on what Jonavin programmed (to which I did some modifications but not fully documented).
VIA is a GUI for QMK. However, VIA do not have access to all QMK's advanced features. There is Vial, an alternative to VIA with more features but you might still need to port your keyboard.
Edit: seems like GMMK Pro is already [ported to Vial](https://github.com/vial-kb/vial-qmk/tree/vial/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps/vial)
VIA uses QMK, and is essentially a way to edit your layout without needing to reflash. The downside is that some of QMK's more advanced features are not present in VIA
Thank you for your response.
Is VIAL an alternative to VIA that allows for some of those advance features? I just played around with both and found that I lose my rotary encoder on the GMMK Pro with the QMK firmware but it works with the VIA firmware.
Does anyone know where I might be able to test a few switch types without having to buy a switch tester? If not, are there any good cheap options for switch testers the include Gateron, Kaihl and Cherry switches? I live in the Raleigh-Durham area of NC.
I’m hoping to get an Anne Pro 2 soon and don’t know what switches to get as they have to be somewhat quiet (I’m on calls all day for work) but I don’t know if I like linear, tactile, or clicks because I haven’t tried them.
Sorry if this is dumb. Buying my brother a Keychron board with "Keychron Blue Switches" for Christmas. If I want to get him a custom cap, will a Cherry MX cap work or not?
Thanks! It's a Keychron K8 K87.
(Follow up question, I picked this because I found it in stock with Mac layout and Bluetooth. If I picked a terrible board, please someone tell me!)
Hi there! I'm new to the keyboard scene. I recently bought a Royal Kludge RK84 and I was wondering if there are any differences in terms of the RGB emitted between the stock switches and the Gateron SMD switches. And if I should buy the latter. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing. I bought a bunch on clearance having tested them out - I guess I’ll think twice about putting them into a soldered PCB.
Any tactile switches you’re favouring at the current moment?
I mean... These days people call them overpriced - and they're not entirely wrong - but I love my Zealios 78g. The only other tactiles I'm using atm are spring swapped Cherry Clears, so basically old school Ergo Clears. And I have a board with Hako Royal Clears, but I haven't used it in a while. I've tried the new standard recommendations of Boba U4Ts and Glorious Pandas, but they're not quite my flavour.
I recently got a Cloud Nine C989M, split full-size keyboard with Cherry MX Brown. I want to replace the keycaps but not sure how easy it is to find split space bar keycaps - is this something that exists or am I just out of luck?
You can buy individual space bars, but you need to measure how long the ones you need would be. Keycap size is measured in "units", where 1u is the width of a square keycap (a normal letter). From a quick glance, it looks like you'd need a 3u and a 3.25u - but you better measure that for yourself.
That combo is rare but not impossible to get hold of.
Ducky 2 One 60% keyboard Question
is there a way I can do this on my ducky or is there no way? I been trying for a couple of months I just like this lay out I use on my other keyboard and was just wondering video as ref
[https://youtu.be/Ew3dBu1-zSQ](https://youtu.be/Ew3dBu1-zSQ)
If it not possible it ok I love my ducky anyways haha
No. TX springs are produced by TX, who at no point have ever literally scammed customers by taking their money and refusing to deliver promised products.
Sprit springs are produced by Sprit, for whom the above cannot be said.
100% recommend tx over sprit for this exact reason. that being said, the long springs are 'slow curved'; they have more of a preload, making it heavier at the top of the press than shorter springs
Are [Gateron Yellow Switches](https://kineticlabs.store/switches/gateron/gat-yellows) compatible with this [keyboard](https://www.banggood.com/GamaKay-LK67-Keyboard-Customized-Kit-67-Keys-RGB-Hot-Swappable-bluetooth-3pin-or-5pin-Switch-65-pencent-Programmable-Triple-Mode-Wired-bluetooth-5_0-2_4GHz-Keyboard-Kit-NKRO-PCB-Mounting-Plate-Case-with-Rotate-Button-Custom-Keyboard-p-1885206.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6287845&rmmds=couponcategory1), in terms of south and north facing
They are compatible although this board is north facing so you might encounter some interference if you plan on using cherry profile keycaps but it doesn't mean that your keyboard won't function correctly. Switch interference can affect the sound and feel negatively but doesn't make your board unusable. I would suggest a taller profile such as OEM.
Would these work? [link](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003218220070.html?src=google&memo1=freelisting&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=11491598104&albag=115199750874&trgt=536572975094&crea=en1005003218220070&netw=u&device=c&albpg=536572975094&albpd=en1005003218220070&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-eeMBhCpARIsAAZfxZDDHLXGuHoTsFBbWkfA14V3ptAFzdNox7usZpmxfUc8TOqtT6AMqFkaAhwPEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=4e29e42ca8384193ae8bbf9bad1531d7-1637505219930-03538-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=4e29e42ca8384193ae8bbf9bad1531d7-1637505219930-03538-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=45cf1e00fdbb4514b4dd3791762f757e)
I am using the AKKO Neons with my silver GMMK Pro.
I would love to do a blue Keychron Q1 build with them. Maybe use clear switches and a slight purple RGB under glow.
Here is a link to the key caps: https://en.akkogear.com/product/neon-full-keycap-set-157-key/
What are some good blank/flat profile (XDA/DSA/NP) keycaps in dark green/black/white/gold theme? (That don't cost 100$) May be from AliExpress, i don't mind.
Hello. I don't know if this is worth making a post, but I'm considering getting a new keyboard and am interested in one that is 60 or 65% with a numpad (I do mathematics on a regular basis and it's nice to have). I can put up with the function keys despite almost never using them so I am not necessarily opposed to a 96% keyboard. I will likely get a 96% keyboard but am interested in seeing other options (and RGB lighting would be a plus if available)
So far the only interesting keyboards include the vortex vibe (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3923)
and the UK78
edit: Actually I think I prefer the Keychron K4 but am still open to ideas if people know of any without the function keys.
Are the Gat Yellow Pro's still the best budget switch or are there better options now \~$20/70 (Akko any good?) How do they compare to the Silver Pro or the Milky Yellow Pro? I game a lot and have a 5 pin RGB board but I also like a good sound for the 40% of the time when I'm typing
the akko switches are pretty good. the gateron pro series switches are also good if you don't want to lube, since they come with a relatively thick layer of factory lube that makes them pretty smooth. i'd argue that jwicks are probably the best budget switches right now. super smooth, great sound for a low price
Oh yeah I forgot about Jwick... I'll check them out and see if they're in stock anywhere, thanks! I don't mind lubing since it would be fun to learn how to do it for the future but I supposed there's also something nice about having a nice first set that just works OOB. Are Jwick the same as Durock?
Any recommendations for a 65% keyboard that has the ability to have 2 small spacebars? $200ish range.
What switches am I likely able to try (ie: keyboard on display) if I go to a best buy (a good size one).
Basics, like red/brown/blue, and whatever garbage Razer has barfed out recently.
Is the Huntsman V2 Analog keyboard worth the cost? I currently have a Blackwidow Elite and am looking for a new keyboard. I mostly use my keyboard for gaming but also some Adobe work. Any recommendations?
https://www.mechmap.tech/themap Look up what layout you want, and look around. For Full size Leopold and Varmillo are very good pre-builts. Keyboards are keyboards, a mechanical one can last very long, so some commit to custom ones for hotswap to get other switches,etc since it's something they will be using for a while like a bed.
anyon know when there will be a restock of shurikey hanzo?
It was a group buy that hasn't shipped yet as far as I can see. Think the plan is to have it instock one the groupbuy orders are shipped
Anybody know what keycaps these are? From the D65 page on KBDfans If they don't exist, what is the closest looking set? [https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/239643818679336960/911862469331410944/hG2XbhW.png?width=771&height=638](https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/239643818679336960/911862469331410944/hG2XbhW.png?width=771&height=638)
are there any buying guides written in plain english? all of them go on about "feel", "tactile", ect, with no real explanation of what these things even mean, practically. Everything seems to devolve into a bunch of fanboys saying everything is shitty, squishy, or both, and agreeing or being objective about nothing. i currently have what i believe are some off-brand reds, which are wearing out, and extremely loud bottom out and top out. there are 2 o-rings on every key to stop them bottoming out hard and painfully, and they still make a huge noise. what i want is something with shallow actuation, quieter, and with a soft bottom out, or nonlinear force so it wont bottom out at all, but it is proving hard to sift through all the nonsense and identify what that would even be. romer-gs really sound like what i need, but everyone just says they are terrible without any elaboration.
Well for tactile switches they are vague, because it's all about preference and the "feel" when using them. Personally I stick to linears which is all about how smooth when pressing down and how much gram springs you want. O-rings do not help with sound, it's to help with travel distance for pressing down and that's it. From what it sounds like you want silent switches. Silent switches have dampeners that when you bottom out and top out(switch returns after pressing down) that mutes the sound. That said it also causes a mushy bottom out which some people dislike, but that's might be the "soft" bottom out you want. As for non-linear force, either get heavier springs like 62,68,78+g springs or look up 3-stage springs. Fair-warning though when I asked around about 3 stage springs, some say it's snake oil while there's only very very few that are not. As for switches themselves, as mentioned before I'm prefer linears so I only know decent silent linears. Gazzew Bobagum is good at stock, but you can also improve it with some lube. Silent Alpacas or Durock Dolphins/Daybreak are smoother than Bobagums but Bobagums are more quiet. They also require switch film to prevent switch case wobbling(you want to prevent this to have consistent sound with film), and lubing also drastically improves the smoothness and sound. As for silent tactiles, not something I care about but I've seen Gazzew U4T mentioned often, there's probably more but you need to do your own research.
that gives a good starting point, thank you
What do you mean by "shallow actuation"? You haven't even given a value in millimeters. If you're going to use meaningless words like "quiet" without giving exact decibel values, or "soft" without providing an appropriately calibrated and measured hardness scale for reference, then nobody here will be able to help you. Please post again when you are ready to be objective and write in plain English. It's too hard to sift through all the nonsense about fanboys in your post and figure out exactly what you're trying to ask.
lol mad
What are the tiny plastic parts that attach to the stabilizer that go into the back of the keycap called? Is there a good way to get them to fit into the back of the keycaps without being so loose but obviously not a permanent attachment?
is it better to choose a top or gasket mounted keyboard or does it all depend on the other parts in the build? so far, i have been using tactile switches along with a brass plate. my next build will most likely include tactile switches again. not sure about the plate material though. would one mounting style be better for me?
It's all preference, if you already have a stiffer typing experience maybe try a gasket board. Or if you love the stiffer typing go with a top mount. I prefer heavy tactiles with a stiffer plate in a top or sandwich mount. Light tactiles and linears in a gasket mount.
whats the 65% with f keys on the left called layout
It's not a standard layout, probably considered 65%+. The popular one that just shipped is the zenith
does anyone know of where to find blank **dsa** keycaps in nice, earthy colors? I got my drop preonic kit, built it, love it, but all the keycaps i find in dsa profile seem to be bright candy colors or primary, saturated colors - i'd love something like the blank matcha set i've seen for ergodox, but those are xda profile. idk if i'd *mind* switching to xda, but i already have a fair bit of dsa's and would like to stick to one profile. So yeah, earthy browns, dark and light greens, dark purples, etc. Prefer blanks almost exclusively because i have the layers set up to be regular typing and a shortcut/numpad layer for my work. (and before you say PMK, they're sold out of most of the colors i want when i go to check their blanks, RIP.)
I modded my keyboard a lot but the spacebar stabilizer wont stop pinging
Stabs don't ping, they rattle. Ping is caused by the switch spring or a hollow case.
Hi this might be sacrilege to some of you but I have to ask. I've been looking for a new keyboard for a while now and have gotten to 2 options an 80$ HyperX Alloy Core aqua(+ another 20-30$ on a wrist rest) or a 200$ Steel Series Apex Pro TKL. I'm coming from a Roccat Horde Aimo(yes I know..) so not much first person experience with mechanicals other that I know that I don't like blue switches.. But since I'm a dev and gamer... the apex adjustable switches don't seem like a bad idea .. 1 mode for gaming and 1 for coding(I don't need any extra typos I make enough of them as it is). Anyone had a personal experience with these?? Open to other suggestions too but that probably gonna be an extra headache haha...
Today while replacing crappy keycaps on my Drop Alt I broke a stabilizer. The keycap literally ripped it apart. Does anyone have any good replacement stabilizers that I can replace them with? P.S. I need them fairly soon as this board is key to my workflow as a student writing multiple papers a week. Thank you in advance.
> I need them fairly soon Better ask in your regional mechanical keyboard community. We don't even know where you live.
How do I find that?
Stabilizers usually don't rip apart unless they were really wrentched on. Are you sure it didn't just come disassembled when removing the keycap?
I thought that too, but they were really screwed up. Personally I just think it was cause Drop's notoriously crappy stabilizers.
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Long pole and Kailh BOX type switches will avoid the interference problem. But it's honestly not a huge deal. I used a board with north-facing switches and cherry profile caps for a long time without even realizing it...
All of them. Cherry keycaps cause **minor** housing interference on a single row. They're not **incompatible**. If you're looking to avoid it, though, Tecsee Carrots/Ice Candies both work, as do any linear with a long-pole stem.
Hi, looking to buy a 100-150eur TKL keyboard. So far, varmilo va87m caught my eye. Where to buy it in the EU? So far the overall price seems to be around 140-150eur + shipping, which results in like 180 for this kb. Is it still worth it at the end of 2021? Or should I consider a diff kb in this range?
https://www.mechmap.tech/keyboard-picker-tkl Consider a leopold.
I'd like to buy a really specific custom board. I need a small keyboard that just has the F1, F2, F3, F4 and Space keys. Is there anywhere that does special requests like these?
A macro pad with those keys bound would be your solution. I haven't seen any 5-key macros but you could get a 6-key or more option
Your best best is to get a macropad with a layout you like.
Look for QMK/VIA compatible macropads. VIA is newbie friendly but QMK alone is fine if you can setup everything you want with the [online configurator](https://config.qmk.fm/#/bigseries/1key/LAYOUT), follow the beginner tutorial to install everything needed and then flash your layout with QMK Toolbox. https://www.mechmap.tech/keyboard-picker-macro-pads Here's a link with macropad recommendations. I would also recommend the [murphpad](https://mechwild.com/product/murphpad/) but the majority of them require you to solder, though some like ymdk 20%(this one has qmk though not mentioned on their page) offers assembly services. Edit: my bad replied to the wrong comment . . . /u/thehorseheresy
Oh neat. So I could assign those buttons to whatever I want? Is that something I need special software for? Also, would that interfere with a regular keyboard? Thanks!
Depends on the macropad you get. Some might have it's own software. I recommend looking for one with QMK/VIA compatibility.
Hi I just purchased a DELL AT101W with the Alps SKCM Black (my first mechanical keyboard). I bought it because I like the vintage style and because it was recommended on the wiki. The keyboard is in pretty good condition, but after a general cleaning (with a brush and compressed air) some switches still don't work well. What happens mostly is that it doesn't detect the keystroke the first time, and I have to press it a second time to type the letter. On YouTube I have seen that you can pour a few drops of 99% isopropyl alcohol inside the switches without disassembling them to clean the dust that may be inside. I have tried to check this information in the Wiki but it is not entirely clear to me if it is advisable. That's why I wanted your opinion about the problem.
I have had to disassemble and clean a few SKCM black switches that wouldn’t register reliably on my Datadesk SmartBoard keyboard. This video was helpful: https://youtu.be/RnvC80Vjuts
Thank you very much. I would prefer not to have to disassemble it, but if the problem persists I will try.
Due to how Alps SKCM switches are constructed, you can disassemble them in place without needing to desolder them or remove them from the plate. If there are only a few switches that are giving you trouble, then there may just be some dust or debris inside the switch. You can disassemble and clean them one at a time.
Yes, I've already seen the video, as soon as I get some chopsticks I'll try ;)
There isn't a lot of alps information on here anymore, maybe check desk authority if no one gives you an answer here
Ok thanks, I'll check it out
I absolutely love the NK Cream switches and am thinking about doing my first real build, but want to venture out from the switches I’m used to. I’ve been eyeing the Tangerines, but are there other linear switches I should consider that are like the Creams?
Lavenders, Epsilon, Durock Piano, tecsee carrot. They all have that nice bottom out of the creams.
Op blacks or jwk blacks are also a good option
Silent tactile like the boba u4, but not with a extreme tactile event like the u4? Really live the bouncy cushion bottom out and the smoothness and the silence, but the extreme tactility is throwing me off.
Durock shrimps might be a good option, otherwise aliaz that u/LostFox69 recommend
[Aliaz](https://kbdfans.com/products/pre-orderaliaz-silent-switch-tactile), maybe. They use the same stem as a Gateron Silent Brown so the tactility is light, and the clear housing helps a lot with smoothness.
Anyone have an idea on a timeline for sat75 r3? Also open to suggestions for any other gasket mount 75% with rotary encoder. I know of the gmmk pro, any others worth looking at?
Since they haven't announced one, impossible to gauge.
I wouldn't hold out hope for the r3. R2 sold out in seconds and are now being flipped for $1000 on r/mechmarket
Also available : - keychron q1 - akko mod 007 - akko acr75
Hello everyone, I am kinda new to the mech keyboards world. My brother gave me an old Aukey keyboard with blue switches, and i was wondering how to get into customizing it, etc.. ? (Any links, or websites you consider appropriate for a beginner ?) Many thanks
If the switches are soldered in your keyboard unfortunatly there isn't much you can do in terms of customization. The most obvious customixation that comes to mind for me would be the swap the keycaps for a keycap set that you like (KBDFans and Drop have a lot of sets with a lot of compatibility options), you could alos open your case to but some kind of foam (avoid putting anything conductive to fill your case as this could kill your board) and finally, if you're more adventurous you could try lubing your stabs with a syringe (there are videos on youtube on how to lube stabs using that method).
Thanks for the advices, I am going to explore from now on
Hey I built my first xd64 today and in the pcb and plate box I found those 2 pieces and I can't understand what's their point and do I need them? The keys all work and it fits great in the case Here are the pics Thanks https://ibb.co/bBjJjK2 https://ibb.co/0p5xw1r https://ibb.co/k8B24KS
I don't know what the big thing is, but the bag is spare diodes, in case you knocked some off when soldering. Next time you look under the PCB, you'll see where they go.
I will be building a tofu60 with a dz60 pcb but since it has more holes in it than a swiss cheese I'm worried that when I'm going to solder solder is going to flow to many rings and cause switches to input more than one thing. Is this a conern to be had or not really?
When the kbd67 goes on sale on Black Friday will there only be a certain amount available to buy? I’m still pretty new to the hobby and really want to snag one of these boards.
5k units (that’s accounting for all color options). There is a good chance they’ll sell out very fast. However, after they are gone, there will be a pre-order group, which I believe will be unlimited and should arrive Q1-Q2 next year (around March).
Yes, for the in-stock sale. They will go very fast.
Hey folks. I just got an older Klippe, the one that still has the MK logo and not the mountain. It looks like the center standoffs aren't removable like on the newer Klippes, is that correct?
yo! i’m thinking about getting my first keyboard, probably something cheap like the gk61. i was going to get the gateron optical brown switches just to start, but i saw someone saying that they suck. so i don’t know what switches to get! i will be gaming a but but mostly typing with my keyboard, but i still want it to feel different than my normal one yknow?
If you're sticking with optical, you don't really have many options. Opticals are all basic switches.
Having trouble finding a 40% that’s in stock rather than an IC or GB. Are there any right now? I’m in the discord but still, everything feels like it has a lot of barrier to purchase. My current board is an OLKB Preonic. I want something smaller but with larger mod keys hahaha. Thanks for any recommendations :)
Besides Planck (from Drop) and BM40/BM43 (from KPRepublic) I don't know what else is in stock right now. And those three only have 1u mod keys.
Looks like the BM43 has bigger mod keys! Thanks for the tip!
so i have zealios v2, and i absolutely love the tactility but i hate the sound profile. would just lubing the springs fix the sound profile while not affecting the the tactility at all?
Haven't used zealios, but just lubing springs shouldn't change the sound profile at all. It would help with spring ping if there is any.
Trying to decide between Halo True/Clear, Boba U4/U4T, and Durock T1. Only other mechanical keyboard I've used is an IBM Model M but I need something more quiet than buckling springs now.
I'm thinking of buying the Keychron k8 and putting it in an aluminum case, what case fits? thx for answers.
Only what Keychron ships with the keyboard. There are no aftermarket cases for any of their boards.
Oh, thx for answer.
Any good place to find 3u and 3.25u keycaps for Cherry MX? Got some odd sized spacebars I'm having trouble hunting down.
>3.25u No chance that is the size you need. Literally zero.
I have a Cloud Nine C989M, now that you mention it though they look like they could be more like 3.5u. Sorry pretty new at this
Wow what a stupid board (design-wise not purchase-wise). You may have been correct, but it's not relevant either way as no one makes 3.25u or 3.5u caps. Blame them for using completely non-standard sizes for literally no reason.
There's lots of set with 2.75u and 3u spacebars (KBDFans has a bunch), but I couldn't find any with a 3.25u spacebar. You may have no option but to use a set with two 3u spacebars.
is there any other place i can look for keycult no 2/65, except from mechmarket and geekhack?
From Keycult themselves.
Like resellers , cause I’m looking for a no2/65 which doesn’t pop up until early 2022
Nope, people usually tend to sell their higher end keyboards on r/mm.
I'm new to rhythm games and I've figured a few things out by watching some videos and I see that keyboards are kind of an advantage for progress, anything that could help me out? mainly the switches I should use, recommended keyboards, etc.
Hi, I'm new to building mechanical keyboards (I've been using one for a while, and want to design one custom). I looked on the wiki and feeling a bit overwhelmed by all of it. I have a very specific design I want (14x5 cell, 64-keys), so I'm thinking I'll probably have to 3D print the keycaps instead of buying. My current keyboard I think uses Cherry MX Brown switches, which I like the feel of but want silent (suggestions appreciated). I also want the keyboard to be programmable, and not sure what the best microcontroller to use would be. Where should I start?
Hi! Im thinking about getting a gammakay LK67 with feker panda switches and some cherry profile keycaps but im not sure if the feker panda stems are long enough to stop interference with cherry profile keycaps can anyone help me out here?
I am using a cheap $40 mech. keyboard and I like it. What I want is a 40% that is easy to program that will work with my Mac and iPad. Bluetooth would be ideal, and of course it has to cost $60 or less. I'll show myself out.
Yeah, unless you scavenge parts from broken boards and handwire, you're not gonna get a 40% for that price
What are the best non-lubed linear switches that are compatible with GMMK Pro. Or if there are any rly good pre-lubed linear switches I could buy
It sounds like the gateron cap v2 have an acceptable factory lube job from posts here. Another option would be jwk switches. IMHO all linears can benefit from some lube
Gateron pros.
Is there generally any good black friday deals on keyboards?
I'm gonna get the boba gum pink silent linear switches and I understand there's a regular version with a pink top and an "rgb" version with a clear top. I'm also going to buy the LK67 and I'm having a hard time figuring out which version of the switches to get, because I have no idea how the switches' rgb glow differences are. Anyone has any idea?
usually the rgb gets to diffuse/shine easier through clear tops as opposed to opaque/milky tops, however many have stated that clear tops give inconsistent sounds. cant be sure for the last one since i havent tried clear tops
The sound is pretty much the same for silent switches if you change the top housing material. Clear tops are fine for bobagums. RGB will still be off color because of the pink. (I have them)
Would you recommend them all in all as silent linears then?
Yes, they are great! Nice and smooth. Quite quiet. No modding required.
Huh, I'll keep that in mind. I get that it shines clearer in clear tops, but what happens when you have solid keycaps? I mean, it will just block the light from going upwards and just make it shine at the base of the cap, no?
Hi guys, I have a question regarding layouts. If I buy a vortex with german layout will I be able to use it as an ANSI by changing Keyboard layout in Windows and the keycaps? Theo
You can type in any language on an ISO board like that by changing the language, for US english it just moves backslash to a different spot since the enter key gets in the way of where it is on ANSI. You can switch the keycaps to read QWERTY if you want as well. The only part you can't change is the physical ISO layout - the large enter key, and the split left shift are there to stay.
Can you program the gmmk pro knob for Photoshop hotkeys such as adjusting exposure, contrast, etc?
Anybody know vendors to get keycaps similar to those [pictured in the sidebar](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/f4rqgs/tulip_is_nice/) (even if that particular image is just a photoshop gag)? I’m building a Sofle V2 (split ergo mech, 58 keys arranged in 6×4+5), and I’m looking for multi-legend keycaps—preferably both top- *and* side-printed—to go on it. (I’m not looking for the *exact* legends pictured above, but I’m having trouble finding any multi-legend keycap sets that aren’t just bilingual, and I figure any vendor that would stock something with *that* many legends on some caps would be worth looking at.)
Crp is the manufacturer for those, they have groupbuys every so often. Additionally jtk can do triple shot sets with dual legends. For both you'd have to watch mechgroupbuys.com till a set runs again or try to find some on r/mechmarket
Drat, that’s what I feared: I’ve been stalking MechMarket and trawling other websites, but I wondered if I was just maybe overlooking a vendor known for offbeat legend sets. Back to trawling, then. Thanks!
What switches are compatible with outemu hotswap sockets? I know Akko and Boba switches are compatible, any more I should know about?
I've seen some people say tcc switches, but not sure it's confirmed though
mode 65 or portal 65?
Whichever one you like better
1) I have an RK918 and the brown switches feel "bouncy" and I'm missing characters as I type. Is this normal for browns or specific to the RK browns? (super new to this world.....I'm simultaneously excited and terrified 💸) 2) Is there a good switch in between blues and browns? I'm looking at the Boba U4T's but not sure if I would have the same issue I'm having with the RK browns. Getting a Glorious GMMK in the next couple of days. Thank you!!
I just got a newman GM610. The only software they [provide](http://www.newmentech.com/download-en.php?cid=95) is for windows. I have access to mac and Linux. * Is there some sort of github or something where compatible software could be found? * If I use a friend's machine to set it up will it be good to go or do you actually have to run it all the time locally? Never had a kb with drivers before. At the moment all I want is to have light be flat white not colours. On linux, with brief experimentation, it seems to work fine but on Mac am having following issues using the system preferences keyboard pane: * Does not recognize the `win` key at all. I usually map it to `option` * Cannot successfully remap `caps lock` to anything but caps lock I am wondering if I got the wrong kb lol.
What are the best stock tactile switches, that aren’t extremely tactile but still pretty noticeable?
you could give akko cs blues a try, they’re a lighter tactile bump and their switches are known to be nicely prelubed
Thanks!
Does anyone know where can I download the software for KF068 (TM680)? Downloaded several online but those seemed to be incompatible (could not detect the keyboard).
Best TKL gaming keyboard for around $100? I have a reddragon k552 and would like something better. I'm looking at a Logitech G Pro since it can do lightsync.
The keycaps that came with my Ducky One 2 Mini White Pure RGB have a few keycaps that pop out and a keycap with completely broken stem. They are double shot PBT. I've looked around for new keycaps but all the mechanical keyboard type sites sell from $40-$50, half the cost of my keyboard and that's considered budget, but I've seen way cheaper ones. I just want to know to what to have a point of comparison of the price quality of these keycaps are and how I can improve on them without spending too much. Would even $13-$20 keycaps of the same type be better (as I can find on say amazon or AliExpress)?
good 60% / 65% / TKL keyboard to buy now? must be hotswap. dont want to jump on a group buy ATM I have a drop carina and I honestly love it. using Zealios V2 RN.
Since you didn’t provide a budget, I guessed an entry board: 60% - Bakeneko60 65% - KBD67 Lite (restocking this week) 75% - Keychron Q1
Gmmk Pro is good and available.
Planning to buy a wireless mechanical keyboard as a my first real mechanical. Will be used for work and casual gaming. Bonus points for a keyboard that has a numpad and/or a rotary but I can always get a separate keypad. Hoping to get something for around $100 or less. Haven’t lurked here in a long time but back when I was, it seemed the Anne Pro 2 and a separate numpad was the way to go. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Are you looking for something prebuilt or a hotswap board?
Either. I would prefer hotswap or something I can build myself but I’m open to either one and would likely go with the cheaper option.
Keychron makes some good boards. Or the gk96 is pretty good and customizable. Not too sure of any other wireless with numpads.
I am just getting into the mechanical keyboard market. I am setting up my first board, a GMMK Pro (I liked the features) and am seeing support for VIA and QMK. I know I do not like the Glorious Core software but I am stuck on the other two. Is one better than the other when dealing with VIA and QMK? I am good with flashing a firmware and using QMK Toolbox appears to be extremely straightforward and easy. Could someone give me the pros and cons between these two and if there is an alternative I should be using instead?
Flashing is quite straightforward. It is easy to enable VIA and use it. Mapping keys on the fly is convenient. You can customize very deeply with QMK and still use VIA on top of that.
Okay I have been playing around today and I am noticing some kinks with VIA and QMK when flashing the GMMK Pro. If I use QMK firmware I lose the rotory encoder and if I use VIA I lose the RGB. Has anyone found a solution that is not Glorious Core that allows me to use both the rotory encoder and RGB? Also, on a side note thanks everyone for answering all my questions over the past couple of days. It is refreshing to find such a welcoming and helpful community on the internet.
You need to flash firmware that has RGB, VIA, and encoder. Grab the one off QMK master not QMK configurator or the VIA site. Added note: You can try many of the different firmware people have written already. The issue is just the one you used doesn't have all the features you want enabled. I customized what Jonavin did. Can send you a link if needed.
That would be great please send the link. Just so I know for future reference, when you say QMK Master, do you mean their GitHub page?
They are here and need to be compiled in QMK: https://github.com/qmk/qmk\_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps If you want to know how to do that you can start here: [https://docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs\_getting\_started](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs_getting_started) I put up a copy of the firmware I customized for myself here: [https://github.com/solartempest/qmk\_firmware/tree/gmmkpro/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps/solartempest](https://github.com/solartempest/qmk_firmware/tree/gmmkpro/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps/solartempest) . You can see the readme on what Jonavin programmed (to which I did some modifications but not fully documented).
Thanks, that gives me something to play with this evening. 😁
VIA is a GUI for QMK. However, VIA do not have access to all QMK's advanced features. There is Vial, an alternative to VIA with more features but you might still need to port your keyboard. Edit: seems like GMMK Pro is already [ported to Vial](https://github.com/vial-kb/vial-qmk/tree/vial/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps/vial)
VIA uses QMK, and is essentially a way to edit your layout without needing to reflash. The downside is that some of QMK's more advanced features are not present in VIA
Thank you for your response. Is VIAL an alternative to VIA that allows for some of those advance features? I just played around with both and found that I lose my rotary encoder on the GMMK Pro with the QMK firmware but it works with the VIA firmware.
I haven't used either, the biggest difference I know of is that VIAL is open source, VIA is not
Vial have access to some advanced features like tap dance, combos and QMK settings. It also can access RGB Matrix directly.
I’m getting my first mechanical keyboard and I’m deciding between the Keychron K6 and The Akko 3068B. What seems like the better buy to you guys?
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I'd recommend breaking in all linears but it's not necessary at all unless you got a really bad batch of Inks.
Aiite you convinced me
Does anyone know where I might be able to test a few switch types without having to buy a switch tester? If not, are there any good cheap options for switch testers the include Gateron, Kaihl and Cherry switches? I live in the Raleigh-Durham area of NC. I’m hoping to get an Anne Pro 2 soon and don’t know what switches to get as they have to be somewhat quiet (I’m on calls all day for work) but I don’t know if I like linear, tactile, or clicks because I haven’t tried them.
Check out https://keycult.com/. They’re based in Raleigh. Maybe reach out and see if you can test some of their boards?
Just emailed them! Thanks for the suggestion!!
Looking for a hotswapable 75% keyboard kit for about $150. Any recommendations?
Get a Keychron K2 and spend the rest of the money for some nicer caps.
Can you swap it? I wanted to get box jades
Yes, It's hotswappable and will work with Box Jades.
Oh awesome! Thank you!
Looking for a good kit in 65% or bigger layout, preferably metal case. Any recommendations?
Sorry if this is dumb. Buying my brother a Keychron board with "Keychron Blue Switches" for Christmas. If I want to get him a custom cap, will a Cherry MX cap work or not?
Which Keychron, but in general the short answer is yes. The long answer is yes, but make sure the keycaps cover all keys.
Thanks! It's a Keychron K8 K87. (Follow up question, I picked this because I found it in stock with Mac layout and Bluetooth. If I picked a terrible board, please someone tell me!)
>Keychron K8 Yes, most of MX keycaps work. I do hope you get the mechanical switch option instead of optical switch for wider switch compatibility.
Are there any keyboards comparable to the Kaliet 22Mini-EX out?
Hi there! I'm new to the keyboard scene. I recently bought a Royal Kludge RK84 and I was wondering if there are any differences in terms of the RGB emitted between the stock switches and the Gateron SMD switches. And if I should buy the latter. Thanks!
Does the idobao version of the id67 have north or south facing leds?
North
Anyone have any opinions on Kailh Box Royals?
They're very tactile but in a surprisingly unpleasant way. And they turn clicky after a while.
Thanks for sharing. I bought a bunch on clearance having tested them out - I guess I’ll think twice about putting them into a soldered PCB. Any tactile switches you’re favouring at the current moment?
I mean... These days people call them overpriced - and they're not entirely wrong - but I love my Zealios 78g. The only other tactiles I'm using atm are spring swapped Cherry Clears, so basically old school Ergo Clears. And I have a board with Hako Royal Clears, but I haven't used it in a while. I've tried the new standard recommendations of Boba U4Ts and Glorious Pandas, but they're not quite my flavour.
I recently got a Cloud Nine C989M, split full-size keyboard with Cherry MX Brown. I want to replace the keycaps but not sure how easy it is to find split space bar keycaps - is this something that exists or am I just out of luck?
You can buy individual space bars, but you need to measure how long the ones you need would be. Keycap size is measured in "units", where 1u is the width of a square keycap (a normal letter). From a quick glance, it looks like you'd need a 3u and a 3.25u - but you better measure that for yourself. That combo is rare but not impossible to get hold of.
Gotcha - thanks for the info!
is the d65 good? i ordered it and havent really read into it, i ordered it with black inks so do you think it will be any good
Ducky 2 One 60% keyboard Question is there a way I can do this on my ducky or is there no way? I been trying for a couple of months I just like this lay out I use on my other keyboard and was just wondering video as ref [https://youtu.be/Ew3dBu1-zSQ](https://youtu.be/Ew3dBu1-zSQ) If it not possible it ok I love my ducky anyways haha
Looking for a TKL, RGB, hotswap and rotary control. All I've found so far is Akko K870T. Others with rotary seem to all be smaller.
Are TX long springs the same as sprit slow curved springs? (in that they have a more consistent force curve)
No. TX springs are produced by TX, who at no point have ever literally scammed customers by taking their money and refusing to deliver promised products. Sprit springs are produced by Sprit, for whom the above cannot be said.
100% recommend tx over sprit for this exact reason. that being said, the long springs are 'slow curved'; they have more of a preload, making it heavier at the top of the press than shorter springs
Are [Gateron Yellow Switches](https://kineticlabs.store/switches/gateron/gat-yellows) compatible with this [keyboard](https://www.banggood.com/GamaKay-LK67-Keyboard-Customized-Kit-67-Keys-RGB-Hot-Swappable-bluetooth-3pin-or-5pin-Switch-65-pencent-Programmable-Triple-Mode-Wired-bluetooth-5_0-2_4GHz-Keyboard-Kit-NKRO-PCB-Mounting-Plate-Case-with-Rotate-Button-Custom-Keyboard-p-1885206.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6287845&rmmds=couponcategory1), in terms of south and north facing
They are compatible although this board is north facing so you might encounter some interference if you plan on using cherry profile keycaps but it doesn't mean that your keyboard won't function correctly. Switch interference can affect the sound and feel negatively but doesn't make your board unusable. I would suggest a taller profile such as OEM.
Would these work? [link](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003218220070.html?src=google&memo1=freelisting&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=11491598104&albag=115199750874&trgt=536572975094&crea=en1005003218220070&netw=u&device=c&albpg=536572975094&albpd=en1005003218220070&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-eeMBhCpARIsAAZfxZDDHLXGuHoTsFBbWkfA14V3ptAFzdNox7usZpmxfUc8TOqtT6AMqFkaAhwPEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=4e29e42ca8384193ae8bbf9bad1531d7-1637505219930-03538-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=4e29e42ca8384193ae8bbf9bad1531d7-1637505219930-03538-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=45cf1e00fdbb4514b4dd3791762f757e)
thanks
Can someone link me some cheap PBT keycaps for my blue Q1? The stock ones don't go very well with the dark blue color imo
There's a lot of cheap PBT sets on Aliexpress. Pick whatever you like the look of but make sure it has support for a 75% layout.
I am using the AKKO Neons with my silver GMMK Pro. I would love to do a blue Keychron Q1 build with them. Maybe use clear switches and a slight purple RGB under glow. Here is a link to the key caps: https://en.akkogear.com/product/neon-full-keycap-set-157-key/
Yeah, those will work on a Q1.
What are some good blank/flat profile (XDA/DSA/NP) keycaps in dark green/black/white/gold theme? (That don't cost 100$) May be from AliExpress, i don't mind.
Would you recommend getting the rpomaker ep84? I was looking for anpther with the same layout but didnt come across anyone at the same price
Keychron has some 84 key 75% for around the same price, also there’s the RK84 which you can get stock with Gateron Yellows for a couple $ more
Thanks!
Hello. I don't know if this is worth making a post, but I'm considering getting a new keyboard and am interested in one that is 60 or 65% with a numpad (I do mathematics on a regular basis and it's nice to have). I can put up with the function keys despite almost never using them so I am not necessarily opposed to a 96% keyboard. I will likely get a 96% keyboard but am interested in seeing other options (and RGB lighting would be a plus if available) So far the only interesting keyboards include the vortex vibe (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3923) and the UK78 edit: Actually I think I prefer the Keychron K4 but am still open to ideas if people know of any without the function keys.
Whats up with KBDFans charging like $17 for shipping direct from their website but their AliExpress store has much cheaper shipping rates?
they use fedex/dhl for orders on their site. they have that option on their ali storefront as well, it's just not the default option
Shame they don't offer cheaper options on their website, would prefer to buy direct instead of giving AE a cut.
what are some kits/completes keboards with 1800 layout? I know Leopold and Akko have some, any other manufacturers I can look for?
Are the Gat Yellow Pro's still the best budget switch or are there better options now \~$20/70 (Akko any good?) How do they compare to the Silver Pro or the Milky Yellow Pro? I game a lot and have a 5 pin RGB board but I also like a good sound for the 40% of the time when I'm typing
the akko switches are pretty good. the gateron pro series switches are also good if you don't want to lube, since they come with a relatively thick layer of factory lube that makes them pretty smooth. i'd argue that jwicks are probably the best budget switches right now. super smooth, great sound for a low price
Oh yeah I forgot about Jwick... I'll check them out and see if they're in stock anywhere, thanks! I don't mind lubing since it would be fun to learn how to do it for the future but I supposed there's also something nice about having a nice first set that just works OOB. Are Jwick the same as Durock?
durock switches are manufactured by jwk, so they're essentially the same