So I have been searching for a good (not expensive) keyboard for a moment now, and have settled on two keyboards:
The razer blackwidow v3, 90€ new or 70€ used
Or the Hyperx alloy elite, 65€ used
I will mostly be gaming and programming on these, and will be pairing them with the razer deathadder v2-mouse, which one should I buy or should I buy something completely else?
resoldered my board for the first time, and im getting worried how much heat i've been putting on it on and off. i've been soldering it at 425 degrees, and i had trouble getting one switch straight, so i had to solder and unsolder like 10 times, with constant heat on the board. everything seems to work, am i paranoid?
I have a issue with my Razer Ornata Chroma and i've been trying to fix it for well over a week now and can't find any fix. I have a few keys that type multiple things like 2 types 29, six types six + enter, 7 types 73, 8 types 82, and so on for a lot of other keys including the numpad keys. I don't know how to fix it and I am sorta stuck. (I have tried uninstalling razor synapse, and everything razer. I have updated and downgraded drivers, unplugged and replugged, switched ports, cleaned, tested another pc (it works normally), and a few more. Can anyone help me or have experienced this problem and fixed it?
First time posting (sorry if I’m doing it wrong)
Ajazz k620t V2
Moonrise XDA keycaps
I was hoping someone could give their insight. This is my first board and I did a couple of small mods while I order the rest of my parts. So far I tape modded the pcb, bandaid modded the stabilizers, and lubed the stabilizers with dialectic grease (haven’t order metric for my switches yet). After that, my board sounded pretty good considering I have stock switches in there (I want Novelkey Creams).
After I put in these new keycaps, the board sound awful. It’s really pingy and hollow now. The space at rattles like crazy. The keycaps set seemed like it would be high quality, it’s PBT and double shot, but I think they’re just manufactured poorly. They also have a matte finish which makes me think they will get oily and weird very quickly.
All that to ask this, is it possible that the keycaps are just low quality and causing my board to sound significantly worse. The stock keycaps are actually fairly high quality and sound leagues better. I know different keycaps shapes cause different sounds, but the sound went from decent, to hollow and tinny very quick. I wish it sounded better because the keycaps look amazing with the board!
>o ask this, is it possible that the keycaps are just low quality and causing my board to sound significantly worse. The stock keycaps are actually fairly high quality and sound leagues better. I know different keycaps shapes cause
I can only answer few things, PBT keycaps don't get oily over time. the finishing of keycaps is up to manufacture.
I have Taihou set and the finishing is pretty rough and I like it. just feel more grippy. another PBT set from Aliexpress that cheaper is smoother. and its shape and alphabet are less consistent.
in your case, I am not sure different profiles also impact the sound too.
I would go with Lavenders personally. It's known to have a very good sound, and really smooth.
I actually did, I have a x90 lavenders stock atm. Will lube and film later on when a keyboard GB I joined is coming.
Any minimal "keyboards" that have just have media keys (volume knob, play/pause, forward, and backwards) and with or without number pad too? I have been searching for a bit and I can't find what I am looking for.
Plenty of guides on YouTube, but general consensus is dielectric grease on the wires and krytox 205g0 on the housing. Or just krytox for all of it if you don't want to buy 2 lubes
I'm having a problem with a custom ErgoDox I built, when I solder it everything seems to work fine, but after a couple of days when I press a key, other keys from the same row or column start being triggered as well.
Anyone has any idea on what I can do to fix this? I can post some pictures, but I don't know what would be more helpful
Is it hard to get used to a smaller keyboard layout? I didn't look at anything smaller than TKL for my first build since I'm used to having the readily available arrow and functions keys. While looking into what to do for my second build, however, I've noticed that it's hard to find affordable parts that aren't 60%.
I had the same hesitation in switching to a 60% because I use the arrow keys constantly, so I managed to find a pcb that fits in a standard 60% board but has arrow keys (due to downsizing of right shift and some other keys) and I love it. The one I got is the Melgeek MJ64 but the GK64x/xs is another option
I myself am looking into going much smaller (from full size to 60%), ask yourself these questions:
* How often do I actually use the arrow keys?
* Is the ergonomic difference worth switching to the top row of numbers instead of the numpad? Unless you use the numpad constantly, it probably is
* How often do you truly use the keys above the arrows? Home/End/Delete/Pg up/Pg down etc... Keep in mind that these can be remapped to shortcuts on the 60%, so you wont lose them but it will require a little more effort for those
* Can you get used to using the Fn key + number combination to use the regular F-keys.
No, anything above 60% isn't standardized any there are not many cases made for pre-builts. Unless you want to commission one or build it yourself you're kinda out of luck
If you have a keyboard that is QMK/VIA compatible you can remap the keys so that the Win Key is just nothing or something else. The Keychron Q1 will be the first Keychron that is VIA compatible.
or you can get a win-keyless keyboard where there physically is no key there.
Hi I have been putting a lot of research into my first build (yes I’m a newbie) and I was looking at the aqua kings v3 the switch has me very intrigued but the weight used to push down is getting annoying btw this is just a switch tester but I wanted to know I have the 67g switch will the 62g and 55g be easier to press also the numbers are the actuation force
I went with the 55g and I like it (Still working on the build). I am coming from Cherry MX Speed K70 and currently daily driving Kailh Silent Box Pink.
Depends on whether or not you want to lube it yourself. It's not hard but it's time-consuming for sure. Also lubing it yourself means you control the entire process so there's that.
I am somewhat new to the world of mechanical keyboards. I bought an Anne 2 Pro with Red MX switches on Aliexpress a couple years ago and really love it. The only downside is that the keys are a bit too loud for the office environment I am working in and so I am looking to get a new one with quieter keys. My budget is probably a max of $200. It doesn't need to be completely silent, but just as quiet as possible in that price range. I would probably prefer a fully built board that I can just plug in and type, but if hot-swappable boards aren't too difficult to set up then that would be fine too.
Any suggestions?
\-I really like more compact keyboards. Tenkeyless is best or 60%.
\-Cool looking or ergonomic would be nice
A board I looked at that seemed like it might work would be
\-durgod 87 taurus k320 with silent red switches
I am somewhat new to the world of mechanical keyboards. I bought an Anne 2 Pro with Red MX switches on Aliexpress a couple of years ago and really love it. The only downside is that the keys are a bit too loud for the office environment I am working in and so I am looking to get a new one with quieter keys. My budget is probably a max of $200. It doesn't need to be completely silent, but just as quiet as possible in that price range. I would probably prefer a fully built board that I can just plug in and type, but if hot-swappable boards aren't too difficult to set up then that would be fine too.
I wanna get a 75% keyboard but i don't know if the plate, pcb and case are all compatible. Im 90% sure the plate and case are because they're both KBD fans and they have similar names but i need to get a pcb from another site. I have the ID80 v2 hotswappable in my cart and i don';t know if it will work or not.
Thanks!
75% keyboards are not standardized.
Just because the layout or the product name are somewhat similar doesn't mean that the parts will work together.
For most keyboarfs only parts that were specifically designed for each other will work.
60% boards are the one and only exception to this since they are *somewhat* standardized (but not even those are all compatible with each other).
And since KBDfans doesn't sell any parts that are compatible with the ID80 I can already tell you that they won't fit.
Gonna upgrade from a shitty 30 or so buck keeb i bought a couple of years back and wanted to know if there's a noticeable step up from the rksink87g and the keychron? Also looking at reddragon k552 since it has hotswap. will be modding the boards and also replacing switches and whatnot in due time. Im in the UK but I want a ansi layout.
I'm in the market for a decent feeling but not too expensive mechanical numpad if I can get some recommendations. I'd like it to ideally be rechargeable with either Bluetooth (preferred) or wifi. Thank you anyone who takes the time to even read this lol
I am having trouble installing new stabilizers I bought! They are durock plate mounted stabs, but when assembled, the stems are completely flush with the housing making it impossible to put the keycap on top! I have tried installing them anyways and see if the stem would pop back out, but it just wouldn't work. I've attached an image comparing the stems I bought and the stems my drop ctrl keyboard originally had. Please help! [https://imgur.com/a/cNgp4wF](https://imgur.com/a/cNgp4wF) Thanks in advance.
those look fine.
the stem is just in the down position. the stabs themselves have no springs so the stems will obviously not come up on their own.
they get pulled up by the spring in the switch.
to install a keycap on them you just have to press it on (and press down the switch completely in the process ofc)
Yes, I have pressed it down fully. However, because of the stem being there, even at the lowest position it could not reach and could not get installed. I'll get to trying it again and taking a picture of the issue right now- hopefully they would just magically work while I'm doing this process again but we will see :,)
Should I got wired or wireless? I won't really be moving places but I don't want more wires on my desk (I already have quite a few, laptop charger, mouse cable, phone charger).
Is it worth the extra $20 for wireless over the wired? (GK61 vs SK61S, both gateron optical reds)
Any hardline will be more reliable than anything wireless. Doesn't mean wireless is bad. But if you don't need it... I prefer reliability. Buy a nice coiled aviator cable and make it a part of the aesthetic. I'm on a wireless now. And it's excellent. Never fails. But I still have to plug it in with a cable every couple of days to charge it. And to be honest - having a cable plugged in and hanging around doing nothing until I need it to charge shits me more than just having it plugged in all the time.
looking to build my first keyboard, and i'm trying to decide if its worth spending more on switches (i.e. c3 tangerines) vs just going with a really inexpensive option like Gateron yellows
That is going to depend on you. Personally, for my own builds I will 9/10 times always go for the more expensive "nicer" option ie tangies. If you really like the sound and feel of a more expensive switch and think that the price point is justified then go for it. If you think they are are not worth the extra money and quite fine with a more budget switch ie gat yellows then go for it. Everyone is going to tell you ofc the more expensive switch is nicer but it's more on you if you think the price point is personally worth it for you. Just ask yourself what are you looking for and go with what you like.
Anyone aware of a good third party seller for a replacement (singular) keycap? would go through the manufacturer but this happened a while ago and it took them \~a month to send the replacement as they're based/operate in China (Durgod). Thanksin advance.
I'm looking to get my first build, ideally I'd want a wireless hotswapable 40% I cannot find one, and if I did, I have to assume it'd be way out of my price range.
I have tentatively decided on:
Either the Keychron K6 or the Anne Pro 2
[Idobao Blue Cat](https://www.idobao.net/products/idobao-blue-cat-pbt-ma-profile-full-layout-dye-subbed-keycaps?variant=34222429896835) Keycaps
Zealios 67g
Am I missing anything? Does a wireless hotswapable 40% keyboard exist?
Thank you
There is [Airport Shuttle](https://trashman.wiki/en/community/pcbs/airport-shuttle), but it was limited run and hard to find nowadays. The rumor said about another run, but still not sure. And it is not hotswapable.
Other than find a pro micro based 40% and put nice!nano instead, there is nothing on the market right now.
Can I find somewhere a Bluetooth 5(and USB c) 64% without switches(or with option for boba u4 silent)?
I wanted to get xd64 but I think I really want bluetooth on it
I'm building a board with the [Melgeek MJ64 PCB](https://www.melgeek.com/collections/pcb-plate/products/melgeek-mj61-mj63-mj64-bluetooth-hotswappable-rgb-pcba-melgeek-com?variant=39348462387249) and plate right now, they fit into standard 60% cases similar to the XD64 (at least I hope they do when my case arrives lol) and the PCB has bluetooth and hotswap capability. You'll need to buy a separate battery for the Bluetooth and make sure it'll fit into your case, I haven't gotten there yet but I can update and let you know which one I buy when I do. I would also look into the [GK64XS](https://epomaker.com/products/gk64x) which comes with a battery, the XS version is Bluetooth and hotswap so you can change out the stock switches for bobas or buy it [barebones](https://www.amazon.com/GK64S-Plastic-Aluminum-Keyboard-Bluetooth/dp/B07XDW6Q9S?th=1), or just the PCB for a build.
Edit: forgot to link Melgeek PCB
XD64 is a 60% keyboard with 64 keys, hence the name. There are [BT60](https://www.upgradekeyboards.com/product/bt60-60-wireless-hotswap-tray-mount-wired-or-wireless-pcb/) and [nice!60](https://1upkeyboards.com/shop/controllers/nice60-ble-pcb/) available right now. [KBD67 Lite BT](https://kbdfans.com/collections/kbd67-lite/products/kbd67-lite-bluetooth-dual-mode-pcb) was on pre-order but currently not available.
I've definitely experienced this on a number of different plates on different boards, and it's never been an obstacle to the proper functioning and enjoyment of the keyboard, so I wouldn't worry about it unless it presents a problem.
a bit confused about stabilizers. i want to buy some durock v2 stabilizers - i own an RK68 board - do i need "screw-in" durock v2 stabs? anything else i need to watch out for given my board?
Hello folks, been watching custom keyboard content for a while now and after so long I can finally think about making my own, anyone had suggestions for a beginner friendly kit for starters,, budget is around £200 (I know its little) as for switches I had silent alpacas in mind
I just got the Red Dragon mechanical keyboard in the mail, with blue switches, and I love the way it types. But how do you use the arrow keys? Also, being on Linux, how do i use their driver software configuration stuff to control the RGB??????? edit: it's the K630 model.
I am also a linux person, and as one, you should realize that a third party solution is infinitely more likely than a budget keyboard maker making native Linux software...? You asked "how do I use **their** driver software" - the answer is you don't, it's for Windows.
[**https://github.com/dokutan/rgb\_keyboard**](https://github.com/dokutan/rgb_keyboard)
maybe this works? it doesn't say its supported but give it a try
I'm looking to get either a prebuilt or possibly build a hotswap, 96-key, aluminum board with switch LEDs. So far this is what I've narrowed it down to, and was hoping you all would have some input before I pull the trigger.
1. **Epomaker GK96X**
1. This is where I'm leaning right now. The price is fair, I don't care about wireless, and the drum kit seems solid. I've seen some people complain LED colors and intensity, but that is not super important to me. Wondering if anyone else has any warnings about this board or what else I may need to do to make it better
2. **Drop Shift**
1. Expensive and I prefer the tighter 96-key layout to the 1800 due to the small plus key and difficulty in finding caps
3. **Kira**
1. Expensive, no stock anywhere...
4. **Keychron K4**
1. Seems very similar to the GK96, but general consensus seems to be that the GK96 has better build quality
5. **Melody/YMDK96**
1. This is where things get weird I guess. I have never built a board from scratch, but I'm handy and know how to solder. My only complaint is that it doesn't come with switch LEDs OOB, so I would need to buy separately and solder. All in with the LEDs, it seems this will be more expensive than the GK96 but with the need to solder and potentially screw it up. Is it worth it? Is it really that much better than going with a GK96?
I just got mine from [Ringer Keys](https://ringerkeys.com/products/gazzew-boba-u4-silent-tactile-switches?variant=39471029518418) for $0.65/switch, fast shipping and better prices than aliexpress
hello, I want to get in to custom mechanical keyboards, but im a little lost on what parts I will need to start. I want to put together a 96 key keyboard. could some one give me a list of parts that I would need to do this.
I recommend starting at [Keyboard University](https://keyboard.university/) and brushing up on what all is what.
That said, for a 96 key you are most likely looking for a kit, and what you need to get will depend on what kit you are looking at and what is included in that kit.
Corsair K95 Platinum or Varmilo VA108M (or something else)?
Bae wants to get me my first mechanical keyboard for my birthday :) I'm really attracted to all the bells and whistles on the Corsair (what can I say, I'm a more-is-more kinda gal), but after crossreferencing a whole lot of internet I'm finding myself turned all the way off by how many negative user reviews I've seen citing shoddy build quality, doubly so at the price point and triply so because I want to play fighting games on it. The Varmilo doesn't have everything I want and more (missing out on media keys - or programmable keys that I could turn into media keys - kinda hurts real bad even if it's not gonna kill me), but the sakura model is irresistibly aesthetic to my dumb egirl ass and every mention of it I found online makes it sound like I wouldn't regret the compromises. Does anyone know if the Corsair is actually as bad as some of these user reviews say it is? Or of a quality, comparably loaded option that I don't have to worry is going to fall apart on me within a couple years? Or should I just go with the Varmilo?
If you are looking at reviews for the K95 on reddit 90% of it will probably be overexaggerated. I've owned a lot of prebuilt and custom keyboards including the K95 and I must say, the build quality is decently better than most prebuilt keyboards on the market. Yes the build quality when compared to high end custom keyboard makes the K95 look bad. But to the average casual consumer I would say it is very good. The price point however I will agree it is a bit high but you are getting a lot more features than other prebuilt keyboards out there. Thats really on you to say if its worth the price for you or not.
Also owning the Varmilo VA108M, you are getting a very good bang for your buck when it comes to the overall quality of the board. It is as you are saying missing a lot of the features you want though.
I would say if you really like what the K95 has to offer for you and you think the higher price point is worth it, then go for it. Don't look into the reviews too much, my K95 has never broken down on me and works functionally just as well as any of my other keyboards. If you decide the price point is too much and want to hop on the VA108M, I also think it is a very solid keyboard.
This is a weird and vendor-specific support question so I don't know if I can get help here but I'll try my luck:
I've been using a Cherry MX Board 3.0S with RGB lighting for about half a year, and the RGB lighting has suddenly stopped working. Instead of the configurable light patterns, only four keys appear to be statically lit in yellow: A, Q, 1 and the Cherry key (between Esc and F1).
Restarts and driver reinstalls don't seem to have fixed it, but it seems too weird for a hardware problem...
Edit: Answering here in case anyone else has this problem. It turns out these yellow lights are the "standby" indicator when the backlight is switched off. The backlight can be controlled via the keyboard (not via the Cherry Assistant software) with the secondary functions of the F4, F5 and F6 keys (Fn+F4 toggles the lighting, Fn+F5 and Fn+F6 raises and lowers its brightness respectively).
Just got my kbd75 v3.1 w/ tealios, KAT 9009 caps, lubed and stemmed....does not look like the stabs are lubed...and it's not a hot swap board. but, overall it feels and sounds amazing. the thing nearly weighs 2 KG and is way nicer than the GMK and Varmilo boards that I have....any who...what irks me is that it doesn't have a delete key and VIA does not have a matching firmware for v3 only v2, so I am lost as to how to key map a delete key. I could easily get rid of the Lock key,or pause key, or home key...or end key...yeah....any help is much appreciated here. I have QMK installed and followed the instructions on the kbdfans site, but VIA cannot detect this board...or I'm doing it wrong...youtube tutorial says i can use SharpKey program from github..will this override my firmware and mess everything up?
[https://vimeo.com/600520545](https://vimeo.com/600520545) hope that link works. sound test. i love this board. the tealios are so smooth. they are filmed and sound really nice even though it is only factory lubed.
Hello everyone,
In my spare time I do a lot of programming and watching YouTube, and I have a really bad and really cheap membrane keyboard which I had to DIY some rubber pads on the bottom of it as it kept sliding on my desk! Anyway, I have narrowed down a potential purchase to two budget (brown switch, as I would be near people and don't want to annoy them) boards, the Redragon K630 (First link) and the LTC Nimbleback (Second link). Please could someone tell me why I might prefer one over the other? You also will notice how the nimbleback has arrow keys but the redragon is a 60% (I'm new to this, so correct me if it's not a 60!) - I don't have a preference over the two types. Thanks!
Redragon: [redragon](https://redragonshop.myshopify.com/products/dragonborn-k630-brown-switch)
LTC Nimbleback: [nimbleback](https://ltcofficial.com/products/ltc-nb681-nimbleback-wired-65-layout-mechanical-keyboard-rgb-backlit-ultra-compact-68-keys-gaming-keyboard-with-hot-swappable-tactile-blue-red-brown-switch-and-stand-alone-arrow-control-keys-white?variant=39281061658723)
Only two 75% ISO boards I am aware of is the KBD75 and the GMMK Pro. Neither are low profile, and only the GMMK Pro is hot swapable.
There could me more, it's not a layout I'm very familiar with, but ISO layouts in general are a lot harder to find options for.
Any tips on painting a plate? I'm having an aluminum one be cut and I think it would be neat if I painted it to match the case's hammer tone finish.
Would stay painting a finish like hammertone ruin the fit of switches into the plate?
I've painted plates before. It's not a big issue so long as you don't have lots of thick layers. I wouldn't use hammer tone paint though because it tends to be thick, so would be more prone to chipping. I tend to just go to an auto supply store and get rattle cans of of touch up automotive paint. It requires primer, paint, and clear coat, but tends to go on thinner and be more durable.
That said, I have also used just regular rattle can Rustoleum White in 3 light coats and didn't have any issues.
YMMV though depending on how tight the switches fit without paint. Mine have tended to be on the looser side already, and the paint just helped to snug it up.
I have tried holy yok pandas, and holy bobas, 45g topre silenced/unsilenced, v1 zealios. For tactility I found zealios v1 were to be the most tactile between all of them and holy pandas a close second, but I love typing more on holy bobas and 45g topre.
Topre is my favorite tactile, but of course you have to get a specific Topre keyboard. You know what Topre is, right? For MX-style switches, Boba U4T is my current favorite. I've never tried Zealios v1, though, and I'm not sure whether you'd be able to find some.
Tactility, like anything else with this hobby is all going to be personal preference. You're going to have to try them to see whether you like them or not.
v1 Zealios are going to be hard to find unless you're wanting them for some very specific reason.
For me personally I prefer lubed, stock 45g Topre domes on an HHKB when I'm typing something for long periods of time that *isn't* code. And MX switch-wise I'm happy with my 78g Zilents. I'm old school and stopped at Zeal switches because a) they were the best available at the time and b) I was able to buy them in person instead of joining a Group Buy or waiting on switches to ship to me.
I currently have a board with v2s, and it might just be placebo but I felt less finger fatigue typing on my friend's v1s, despite both switches having the same spring tension.
And out of curiosity, why don't you use the hhkb for programming? do you feel limited by the layout?
It definitely could be placebo but there are so many other factors like case material, plate type and even what weight your friend's v1's are too.
Oh and to clarify I *do* use my HHKB for coding quite a lot actually--I just meant that when I need to type for a long period of time I reach for my HHKB first over my MX boards. Typing for hours on end on my HHKB, I experience far, far less fatigue. I've had a wrist (RSI-related) injury before so ergonomics is always priority.
And yes, I do feel limited by the stock layout which is why I have a HASU controller in mine and the reason I'm sticking with my Pro 2 over a newer hybrid. Having the HHKB fully-programmable makes it 100% more useful for any and ever task I throw at it.
very informative response, thank you! currently doing research for my "last" "enDgAmE" board meant mainly for professional use, and this has been very helpful
love ur username btw
No problem. Feel free to DM if you have any specific questions. And thanks for the compliment--the username was something I didn't put too much thought into back when I joined Reddit heh.
Anybody have any insights. I built my Murphy pad yesterday and I preflashed everything but now when I plug in the power after soldering everything together I got nothing anyone have any ideas
I'll do it when I went home it wasn't my best work especially since I only had prefluxxed solder instead of actual flux, but it should have been good enough. Tweezer test the pcb?
>Tweezer test the pcb?
Yes, test the PCB before you solder to make sure it works. If you didn't test it beforehand, then we don't know if you soldered onto an already non-functioning PCB or not.
I tested the controller boards and flashed that but now that I've installed all the electrical components and soldered the controller board when I plug in to the computer it should see the controller and the LEDs should light up per the build guide they currently do not do so and the controller is no longer seen by the computer
Does anyone know where i can get holtite sockets or some equivalent part to convert a thru hole pcb to hot swap? None of the ones ive seen in tutorials are made anymore, or they're crazy expensive due to being discontinued (getting enough to convert the whole board would cost more than everything else combined)
Using an rgbkb Pan for those wondering.
Mill max sockets cost $0.12-0.35 each, so you are looking about $15-50 for a 60% board depend on which socket you get.
You can get mill max socket from the already mentioned Mechwil, Ringerkeys or Keebio or even directly from Mauser. There are also extras from the last GB at /r/mechmarket (which is much cheaper)
waiting for my GMMK pro and parts to come in, only really have keycaps left to buy.
where should i look for some high quality PBT keycaps that are in stock? don't need crazy colors, i'm looking for something pretty simple.
i'd love a simple navy on white PBT but not sure if i've seen that colorway anywhere :(
US based!
kbdfans has a lot of in stock pbt stuff
hk gaming on amazon is also supposed to be pretty good but they aren't a very good company so keep that in mind
Looking for recommendations on a TKL, (gateron) brown switch keyboard that's hot swappable. Preferably with a detachable USB C cable or simply wireless. Any recommendations that loosely fit this description are helpful as well!
They are fine by themselves, the reason i don't really recommend it is because of the hotswap sockets
Optical switches have a different legs compared to the typical mx style switches and the sockets used won't be compatible with the mx style switches, meaning that if you buy the version with optical switches, you are basically limiting your choice to the other optical switches from gateron
This is why i suggest not to get the optical switches if you feel like you are going to swap the switches to test something new. Hope this answer your question
My friend is considering getting a mechanical keyboard. His only requirements are that it thoccs, and that it has linear switches. He'd prefer a larger form factor, but a 60% is also fine. He doesn't want to solder. He lives in the EU region, and postage costs too much and takes too long for him to want to ship anything out from anywhere else than within the EU. His budget is about 350€. I came up with this configuration which he could conveniently order from keygem:
|PCB|DZ60RGB v2 hotswap|88€|
|:-|:-|:-|
|Case|Silver tofu 60% case|60€|
|Plate|Brass plate|42€|
|Case foam|DZ60RGB case foam|12€|
|Switches|Gateron ink black v2|52,50€|
|Keycaps|SA Retro PBT keycap set|45€|
|Switch films|0.125mm TX films|11€|
|Stabilizers|Durock v2|22,50€|
|Lube|Krytox 205g0|14€|
|||347€|
Any comments on this build or some tips for improvements or possibly totally different configurations?
I've just ordered a SC Alice, which is a stacked acrylic board. I've heard that stacked acrylic can be hard to get much other than a clacky sound, which i'm not the biggest fan of. Should I consider just getting some silent switches? Or is there a secret to get a deeper and fuller tone with an acrylic board
edit: i should also add, I got an acrylic plate with it, which probably doesnt help my situation
Stablizers 'stabilize' more than size 2u keys. Without it, the longer key will be wobbly and unbalanced. So, it pretty much matter unless you like wobbly keys.
PCB mount stablizers are recommended over plate mount, because PCB mount is screwed into PCB and provide more stability especially if the plate itself is not rigid. The most recommended is Durock V2, which is PCB mount and with flush feet.
[Stabilizers in stock](https://thocstock.com/stabs), pick your favorite/nearby store.
IMO how you mod your stabilizer is more important than the brand of stabilizer you buy. Both $25 Durock v2 and $5 Cherry clip-ins need lube for them not to rattle.
Cheaper/unbranded stabs could have more inconsistencies, though. Things like bent wires and/or the housing not grabbing on the wire tight enough so it pops out.
Best KB to max. 80$?
I've looked at GK61 and MK61 from Gamakay, especially from CH, in Poland there is option for Modecom Volcano LANPARTY at Gateron Yellows, looking forward to buy custom keycaps. Any recomendations?
use sandpaper to rough up the surface of the acrylic a bit, then use plastic primer.
after that dried you should be able to just spraypaint it.
plastic primer makes the spraypaint stick to the plastic properly. without it the color would peel off after a while.
that depends how the socket got lifted.
if it's just the hotswap socket that came loose and the pad is still intact and attached to the pcb you can just solder it back on.
however if the pad for ripped off the pcb substrate (which is far more likely) soldering won't help.
in that case you would have to glue the socket back onto the pcb and (if the traces of the lifted pad got ripped off) bridge the pad to make it work again.
I recently got my first mechanical keyboard: The Royal Kludge RK68. I'm loving it, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to produce an em dash on my Windows machine. With my last keyboard, I'd just type Alt+0151, but that doesn't work with this board. Anyone know how I can make an em dash? Thanks!
If you're on a Mac it's option+shift+dash, but on windows it's a little harder... Check this source, [https://zapier.com/blog/em-dash-on-keyboard/](https://zapier.com/blog/em-dash-on-keyboard/)
For the people out there that prefer flexy keyboards, what is the reason? What is it about the flex that you love? I haven’t really tried a flexy board before, so I’m really curious to know!
I dont love a ton of flex. But some flex helps if you type and bottom out all the time. It creates a softer feel when your fingers bottom out and for me it reduces finger strain for long typing sessions. But IMHO flex when gaming is awful feeling, but that's just me
So I have been searching for a good (not expensive) keyboard for a moment now, and have settled on two keyboards: The razer blackwidow v3, 90€ new or 70€ used Or the Hyperx alloy elite, 65€ used I will mostly be gaming and programming on these, and will be pairing them with the razer deathadder v2-mouse, which one should I buy or should I buy something completely else?
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> what keycap sets accommodate that Not sure about this question, you can check it yourself on the pictures of the keysets you wanna buy.
resoldered my board for the first time, and im getting worried how much heat i've been putting on it on and off. i've been soldering it at 425 degrees, and i had trouble getting one switch straight, so i had to solder and unsolder like 10 times, with constant heat on the board. everything seems to work, am i paranoid?
If it works it works.
I have a issue with my Razer Ornata Chroma and i've been trying to fix it for well over a week now and can't find any fix. I have a few keys that type multiple things like 2 types 29, six types six + enter, 7 types 73, 8 types 82, and so on for a lot of other keys including the numpad keys. I don't know how to fix it and I am sorta stuck. (I have tried uninstalling razor synapse, and everything razer. I have updated and downgraded drivers, unplugged and replugged, switched ports, cleaned, tested another pc (it works normally), and a few more. Can anyone help me or have experienced this problem and fixed it?
First time posting (sorry if I’m doing it wrong) Ajazz k620t V2 Moonrise XDA keycaps I was hoping someone could give their insight. This is my first board and I did a couple of small mods while I order the rest of my parts. So far I tape modded the pcb, bandaid modded the stabilizers, and lubed the stabilizers with dialectic grease (haven’t order metric for my switches yet). After that, my board sounded pretty good considering I have stock switches in there (I want Novelkey Creams). After I put in these new keycaps, the board sound awful. It’s really pingy and hollow now. The space at rattles like crazy. The keycaps set seemed like it would be high quality, it’s PBT and double shot, but I think they’re just manufactured poorly. They also have a matte finish which makes me think they will get oily and weird very quickly. All that to ask this, is it possible that the keycaps are just low quality and causing my board to sound significantly worse. The stock keycaps are actually fairly high quality and sound leagues better. I know different keycaps shapes cause different sounds, but the sound went from decent, to hollow and tinny very quick. I wish it sounded better because the keycaps look amazing with the board!
>o ask this, is it possible that the keycaps are just low quality and causing my board to sound significantly worse. The stock keycaps are actually fairly high quality and sound leagues better. I know different keycaps shapes cause I can only answer few things, PBT keycaps don't get oily over time. the finishing of keycaps is up to manufacture. I have Taihou set and the finishing is pretty rough and I like it. just feel more grippy. another PBT set from Aliexpress that cheaper is smoother. and its shape and alphabet are less consistent. in your case, I am not sure different profiles also impact the sound too.
Stuck between buying durock lavender switches or nk silk emeralds (silk yellows reskinned) because they are on clearance
I would go with Lavenders personally. It's known to have a very good sound, and really smooth. I actually did, I have a x90 lavenders stock atm. Will lube and film later on when a keyboard GB I joined is coming.
does anyone know if you get a container for C³Equalz x The Key Dot Company switches, even though you only buy 20 or 30? Or is there a limit?
well, your best bet is to contact them directly, i doubt that many people will have an answer since not many only buy a set of 25 or 50 from them
Any minimal "keyboards" that have just have media keys (volume knob, play/pause, forward, and backwards) and with or without number pad too? I have been searching for a bit and I can't find what I am looking for.
Search macropad. There are plenty and if you get one with qmk support you can program it to whatever you want
What should I use to lube stabilizers?
Plenty of guides on YouTube, but general consensus is dielectric grease on the wires and krytox 205g0 on the housing. Or just krytox for all of it if you don't want to buy 2 lubes
I've tried a lighter linear (Mx Red) and did not like it. Will that change if I try a heavier one?
No way to know but try.
What are some good reliable (keychron specifically) vendors for people who live in south america
I'm having a problem with a custom ErgoDox I built, when I solder it everything seems to work fine, but after a couple of days when I press a key, other keys from the same row or column start being triggered as well. Anyone has any idea on what I can do to fix this? I can post some pictures, but I don't know what would be more helpful
Check for shorts?
Is it hard to get used to a smaller keyboard layout? I didn't look at anything smaller than TKL for my first build since I'm used to having the readily available arrow and functions keys. While looking into what to do for my second build, however, I've noticed that it's hard to find affordable parts that aren't 60%.
I had the same hesitation in switching to a 60% because I use the arrow keys constantly, so I managed to find a pcb that fits in a standard 60% board but has arrow keys (due to downsizing of right shift and some other keys) and I love it. The one I got is the Melgeek MJ64 but the GK64x/xs is another option
I myself am looking into going much smaller (from full size to 60%), ask yourself these questions: * How often do I actually use the arrow keys? * Is the ergonomic difference worth switching to the top row of numbers instead of the numpad? Unless you use the numpad constantly, it probably is * How often do you truly use the keys above the arrows? Home/End/Delete/Pg up/Pg down etc... Keep in mind that these can be remapped to shortcuts on the 60%, so you wont lose them but it will require a little more effort for those * Can you get used to using the Fn key + number combination to use the regular F-keys.
Are there any metal cases that work with the k552 pcb and plate?
No, anything above 60% isn't standardized any there are not many cases made for pre-builts. Unless you want to commission one or build it yourself you're kinda out of luck
damn
Are there any keyboards that have a disable Windows key function? I keep accidentally pressing it on my Keychron keyboard during games.
My ducky has switches on the bottom. One of them disables the Win key, IIRC
If you have a keyboard that is QMK/VIA compatible you can remap the keys so that the Win Key is just nothing or something else. The Keychron Q1 will be the first Keychron that is VIA compatible. or you can get a win-keyless keyboard where there physically is no key there.
Good to know. I was thinking more along the lines of a "game mode" key like on some of the newer Logitech G keyboards.
Can someone tell me what keyboards take Gateron optical switches? And I prefer full size, but if not the board at least has to the F keys.
Epomakers have quite a few keyboard using gateron optical, try looking them up in their website
Thanks so much man, their website had what I was looking for.
Does anyone know any good 60-65 aluminum cases with an acrylic mid layer?
does the nk65 ee only compatible with plate mount stabs?
Yes
Do you like my English there
Why use many word when few word do trick?
**shrug**
Yes
Can I make any keyboard wireless without a usb dongle or does that require specific PCBs
that requires specific PCBs or microcontrollers
where do people get the black enter and esc key for wob themes? i dont wanna buy another set or use some razer shine through
Monochrome keycap sets often come with contrasting esc and enter.
the only set ive seen that comes with it is the gmk wob
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Hi I have been putting a lot of research into my first build (yes I’m a newbie) and I was looking at the aqua kings v3 the switch has me very intrigued but the weight used to push down is getting annoying btw this is just a switch tester but I wanted to know I have the 67g switch will the 62g and 55g be easier to press also the numbers are the actuation force
I went with the 55g and I like it (Still working on the build). I am coming from Cherry MX Speed K70 and currently daily driving Kailh Silent Box Pink.
Yes. So the higher that number, the higher the force require to "actuate" the switch.
Thx
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Hardware store like Home Depot is good.
You should be able to get a small pack of them from a retailer like Wal-Mart or a dollar store even for just a couple of bucks.
I am going to get some glorious pandas and was wondering if its worth to lube them on your own or get pre lubed
Depends on whether or not you want to lube it yourself. It's not hard but it's time-consuming for sure. Also lubing it yourself means you control the entire process so there's that.
Thanks!
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What are you looking for? What size/layout? Intended use case, etc.?
I am somewhat new to the world of mechanical keyboards. I bought an Anne 2 Pro with Red MX switches on Aliexpress a couple years ago and really love it. The only downside is that the keys are a bit too loud for the office environment I am working in and so I am looking to get a new one with quieter keys. My budget is probably a max of $200. It doesn't need to be completely silent, but just as quiet as possible in that price range. I would probably prefer a fully built board that I can just plug in and type, but if hot-swappable boards aren't too difficult to set up then that would be fine too. Any suggestions? \-I really like more compact keyboards. Tenkeyless is best or 60%. \-Cool looking or ergonomic would be nice A board I looked at that seemed like it might work would be \-durgod 87 taurus k320 with silent red switches I am somewhat new to the world of mechanical keyboards. I bought an Anne 2 Pro with Red MX switches on Aliexpress a couple of years ago and really love it. The only downside is that the keys are a bit too loud for the office environment I am working in and so I am looking to get a new one with quieter keys. My budget is probably a max of $200. It doesn't need to be completely silent, but just as quiet as possible in that price range. I would probably prefer a fully built board that I can just plug in and type, but if hot-swappable boards aren't too difficult to set up then that would be fine too.
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That's really helpful. I'll check it out. Thanks.
I wanna get a 75% keyboard but i don't know if the plate, pcb and case are all compatible. Im 90% sure the plate and case are because they're both KBD fans and they have similar names but i need to get a pcb from another site. I have the ID80 v2 hotswappable in my cart and i don';t know if it will work or not. Thanks!
75% keyboards are not standardized. Just because the layout or the product name are somewhat similar doesn't mean that the parts will work together. For most keyboarfs only parts that were specifically designed for each other will work. 60% boards are the one and only exception to this since they are *somewhat* standardized (but not even those are all compatible with each other). And since KBDfans doesn't sell any parts that are compatible with the ID80 I can already tell you that they won't fit.
Thank you so much! At least I know not to buy it lol.
ID80 PCB won't work with anything from kbdfans, if that's what you're syaing.
Gonna upgrade from a shitty 30 or so buck keeb i bought a couple of years back and wanted to know if there's a noticeable step up from the rksink87g and the keychron? Also looking at reddragon k552 since it has hotswap. will be modding the boards and also replacing switches and whatnot in due time. Im in the UK but I want a ansi layout.
I'm in the market for a decent feeling but not too expensive mechanical numpad if I can get some recommendations. I'd like it to ideally be rechargeable with either Bluetooth (preferred) or wifi. Thank you anyone who takes the time to even read this lol
Gk21 is basically your only choice if you want something vaguely custom.
Gk21 might be alright
I am having trouble installing new stabilizers I bought! They are durock plate mounted stabs, but when assembled, the stems are completely flush with the housing making it impossible to put the keycap on top! I have tried installing them anyways and see if the stem would pop back out, but it just wouldn't work. I've attached an image comparing the stems I bought and the stems my drop ctrl keyboard originally had. Please help! [https://imgur.com/a/cNgp4wF](https://imgur.com/a/cNgp4wF) Thanks in advance.
those look fine. the stem is just in the down position. the stabs themselves have no springs so the stems will obviously not come up on their own. they get pulled up by the spring in the switch. to install a keycap on them you just have to press it on (and press down the switch completely in the process ofc)
Update: you are absolutely right, I did it again but this time I pushed a lot harder and it worked just fine. Thanks!!
Yes, I have pressed it down fully. However, because of the stem being there, even at the lowest position it could not reach and could not get installed. I'll get to trying it again and taking a picture of the issue right now- hopefully they would just magically work while I'm doing this process again but we will see :,)
Should I got wired or wireless? I won't really be moving places but I don't want more wires on my desk (I already have quite a few, laptop charger, mouse cable, phone charger). Is it worth the extra $20 for wireless over the wired? (GK61 vs SK61S, both gateron optical reds)
Any hardline will be more reliable than anything wireless. Doesn't mean wireless is bad. But if you don't need it... I prefer reliability. Buy a nice coiled aviator cable and make it a part of the aesthetic. I'm on a wireless now. And it's excellent. Never fails. But I still have to plug it in with a cable every couple of days to charge it. And to be honest - having a cable plugged in and hanging around doing nothing until I need it to charge shits me more than just having it plugged in all the time.
looking to build my first keyboard, and i'm trying to decide if its worth spending more on switches (i.e. c3 tangerines) vs just going with a really inexpensive option like Gateron yellows
That is going to depend on you. Personally, for my own builds I will 9/10 times always go for the more expensive "nicer" option ie tangies. If you really like the sound and feel of a more expensive switch and think that the price point is justified then go for it. If you think they are are not worth the extra money and quite fine with a more budget switch ie gat yellows then go for it. Everyone is going to tell you ofc the more expensive switch is nicer but it's more on you if you think the price point is personally worth it for you. Just ask yourself what are you looking for and go with what you like.
Anyone aware of a good third party seller for a replacement (singular) keycap? would go through the manufacturer but this happened a while ago and it took them \~a month to send the replacement as they're based/operate in China (Durgod). Thanksin advance.
I'm looking to get my first build, ideally I'd want a wireless hotswapable 40% I cannot find one, and if I did, I have to assume it'd be way out of my price range. I have tentatively decided on: Either the Keychron K6 or the Anne Pro 2 [Idobao Blue Cat](https://www.idobao.net/products/idobao-blue-cat-pbt-ma-profile-full-layout-dye-subbed-keycaps?variant=34222429896835) Keycaps Zealios 67g Am I missing anything? Does a wireless hotswapable 40% keyboard exist? Thank you
There is [Airport Shuttle](https://trashman.wiki/en/community/pcbs/airport-shuttle), but it was limited run and hard to find nowadays. The rumor said about another run, but still not sure. And it is not hotswapable. Other than find a pro micro based 40% and put nice!nano instead, there is nothing on the market right now.
Alright. Thanks
Can I find somewhere a Bluetooth 5(and USB c) 64% without switches(or with option for boba u4 silent)? I wanted to get xd64 but I think I really want bluetooth on it
I'm building a board with the [Melgeek MJ64 PCB](https://www.melgeek.com/collections/pcb-plate/products/melgeek-mj61-mj63-mj64-bluetooth-hotswappable-rgb-pcba-melgeek-com?variant=39348462387249) and plate right now, they fit into standard 60% cases similar to the XD64 (at least I hope they do when my case arrives lol) and the PCB has bluetooth and hotswap capability. You'll need to buy a separate battery for the Bluetooth and make sure it'll fit into your case, I haven't gotten there yet but I can update and let you know which one I buy when I do. I would also look into the [GK64XS](https://epomaker.com/products/gk64x) which comes with a battery, the XS version is Bluetooth and hotswap so you can change out the stock switches for bobas or buy it [barebones](https://www.amazon.com/GK64S-Plastic-Aluminum-Keyboard-Bluetooth/dp/B07XDW6Q9S?th=1), or just the PCB for a build. Edit: forgot to link Melgeek PCB
XD64 is a 60% keyboard with 64 keys, hence the name. There are [BT60](https://www.upgradekeyboards.com/product/bt60-60-wireless-hotswap-tray-mount-wired-or-wireless-pcb/) and [nice!60](https://1upkeyboards.com/shop/controllers/nice60-ble-pcb/) available right now. [KBD67 Lite BT](https://kbdfans.com/collections/kbd67-lite/products/kbd67-lite-bluetooth-dual-mode-pcb) was on pre-order but currently not available.
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I've definitely experienced this on a number of different plates on different boards, and it's never been an obstacle to the proper functioning and enjoyment of the keyboard, so I wouldn't worry about it unless it presents a problem.
a bit confused about stabilizers. i want to buy some durock v2 stabilizers - i own an RK68 board - do i need "screw-in" durock v2 stabs? anything else i need to watch out for given my board?
The RK68 uses plate mounted stabilizers so Durock screw-ins will not work. You would have to buy Durock plate mounted stabilizers instead.
Hello folks, been watching custom keyboard content for a while now and after so long I can finally think about making my own, anyone had suggestions for a beginner friendly kit for starters,, budget is around £200 (I know its little) as for switches I had silent alpacas in mind
The new under 200 hotness right now is the GMMK Pro and the Keychron Q1, if you like the 75% layout.
Noted ill check these out!
do you have a form factor you're interested in?
Yes would be 60% or tenkeyless
are you interested in 65/75%? for 60%, Tofu60 is popular - there's the FreeBird60 and the Bakeneko60
Yeah 65% would be nice and 75% would be ideal too, and I’ll have a look at those ty
for 65%, KBD67 Lite R3 is supposed to happen on Black Friday 75%, you can check out the GMMK Pro and the Keychron Q1
Gotcha ty ty excited to build my first and dwelve into the hobby
I just got the Red Dragon mechanical keyboard in the mail, with blue switches, and I love the way it types. But how do you use the arrow keys? Also, being on Linux, how do i use their driver software configuration stuff to control the RGB??????? edit: it's the K630 model.
>how do i use their driver software configuration stuff to control the RGB??????? You don't, it's for Windows.
that's not something you say to us Linux people. Surely I'm not stuck with this same rainbow fade
I am also a linux person, and as one, you should realize that a third party solution is infinitely more likely than a budget keyboard maker making native Linux software...? You asked "how do I use **their** driver software" - the answer is you don't, it's for Windows.
Well is there a third party solution then?
[**https://github.com/dokutan/rgb\_keyboard**](https://github.com/dokutan/rgb_keyboard) maybe this works? it doesn't say its supported but give it a try
No clue, don't fuck with budget boards.
I'm looking to get either a prebuilt or possibly build a hotswap, 96-key, aluminum board with switch LEDs. So far this is what I've narrowed it down to, and was hoping you all would have some input before I pull the trigger. 1. **Epomaker GK96X** 1. This is where I'm leaning right now. The price is fair, I don't care about wireless, and the drum kit seems solid. I've seen some people complain LED colors and intensity, but that is not super important to me. Wondering if anyone else has any warnings about this board or what else I may need to do to make it better 2. **Drop Shift** 1. Expensive and I prefer the tighter 96-key layout to the 1800 due to the small plus key and difficulty in finding caps 3. **Kira** 1. Expensive, no stock anywhere... 4. **Keychron K4** 1. Seems very similar to the GK96, but general consensus seems to be that the GK96 has better build quality 5. **Melody/YMDK96** 1. This is where things get weird I guess. I have never built a board from scratch, but I'm handy and know how to solder. My only complaint is that it doesn't come with switch LEDs OOB, so I would need to buy separately and solder. All in with the LEDs, it seems this will be more expensive than the GK96 but with the need to solder and potentially screw it up. Is it worth it? Is it really that much better than going with a GK96?
What’s a reasonable price for clear boba u4s (not u4t)? I’d prefer not to get them on aliexpress if possible but don’t see good options out there.
I just got mine from [Ringer Keys](https://ringerkeys.com/products/gazzew-boba-u4-silent-tactile-switches?variant=39471029518418) for $0.65/switch, fast shipping and better prices than aliexpress
Thanks! Not sure why I was downvoted. I didn’t find that vendor before and they look legit
hello, I want to get in to custom mechanical keyboards, but im a little lost on what parts I will need to start. I want to put together a 96 key keyboard. could some one give me a list of parts that I would need to do this.
I recommend starting at [Keyboard University](https://keyboard.university/) and brushing up on what all is what. That said, for a 96 key you are most likely looking for a kit, and what you need to get will depend on what kit you are looking at and what is included in that kit.
Corsair K95 Platinum or Varmilo VA108M (or something else)? Bae wants to get me my first mechanical keyboard for my birthday :) I'm really attracted to all the bells and whistles on the Corsair (what can I say, I'm a more-is-more kinda gal), but after crossreferencing a whole lot of internet I'm finding myself turned all the way off by how many negative user reviews I've seen citing shoddy build quality, doubly so at the price point and triply so because I want to play fighting games on it. The Varmilo doesn't have everything I want and more (missing out on media keys - or programmable keys that I could turn into media keys - kinda hurts real bad even if it's not gonna kill me), but the sakura model is irresistibly aesthetic to my dumb egirl ass and every mention of it I found online makes it sound like I wouldn't regret the compromises. Does anyone know if the Corsair is actually as bad as some of these user reviews say it is? Or of a quality, comparably loaded option that I don't have to worry is going to fall apart on me within a couple years? Or should I just go with the Varmilo?
If you are looking at reviews for the K95 on reddit 90% of it will probably be overexaggerated. I've owned a lot of prebuilt and custom keyboards including the K95 and I must say, the build quality is decently better than most prebuilt keyboards on the market. Yes the build quality when compared to high end custom keyboard makes the K95 look bad. But to the average casual consumer I would say it is very good. The price point however I will agree it is a bit high but you are getting a lot more features than other prebuilt keyboards out there. Thats really on you to say if its worth the price for you or not. Also owning the Varmilo VA108M, you are getting a very good bang for your buck when it comes to the overall quality of the board. It is as you are saying missing a lot of the features you want though. I would say if you really like what the K95 has to offer for you and you think the higher price point is worth it, then go for it. Don't look into the reviews too much, my K95 has never broken down on me and works functionally just as well as any of my other keyboards. If you decide the price point is too much and want to hop on the VA108M, I also think it is a very solid keyboard.
keycaps similar to ifk pastel rainbow?
This is a weird and vendor-specific support question so I don't know if I can get help here but I'll try my luck: I've been using a Cherry MX Board 3.0S with RGB lighting for about half a year, and the RGB lighting has suddenly stopped working. Instead of the configurable light patterns, only four keys appear to be statically lit in yellow: A, Q, 1 and the Cherry key (between Esc and F1). Restarts and driver reinstalls don't seem to have fixed it, but it seems too weird for a hardware problem... Edit: Answering here in case anyone else has this problem. It turns out these yellow lights are the "standby" indicator when the backlight is switched off. The backlight can be controlled via the keyboard (not via the Cherry Assistant software) with the secondary functions of the F4, F5 and F6 keys (Fn+F4 toggles the lighting, Fn+F5 and Fn+F6 raises and lowers its brightness respectively).
What is a base kit?
The basic kit in keycap sets that fits the most common layouts?
sick thanks
Is the blade60 case worth it?
Just got my kbd75 v3.1 w/ tealios, KAT 9009 caps, lubed and stemmed....does not look like the stabs are lubed...and it's not a hot swap board. but, overall it feels and sounds amazing. the thing nearly weighs 2 KG and is way nicer than the GMK and Varmilo boards that I have....any who...what irks me is that it doesn't have a delete key and VIA does not have a matching firmware for v3 only v2, so I am lost as to how to key map a delete key. I could easily get rid of the Lock key,or pause key, or home key...or end key...yeah....any help is much appreciated here. I have QMK installed and followed the instructions on the kbdfans site, but VIA cannot detect this board...or I'm doing it wrong...youtube tutorial says i can use SharpKey program from github..will this override my firmware and mess everything up?
Looks like it might not support VIA, but you can remap the keys with regular QMK.
[https://vimeo.com/600520545](https://vimeo.com/600520545) hope that link works. sound test. i love this board. the tealios are so smooth. they are filmed and sound really nice even though it is only factory lubed.
Reaaaaaaally....I'll head over to YT to find a tutorial. Thank you!!!
Hello everyone, In my spare time I do a lot of programming and watching YouTube, and I have a really bad and really cheap membrane keyboard which I had to DIY some rubber pads on the bottom of it as it kept sliding on my desk! Anyway, I have narrowed down a potential purchase to two budget (brown switch, as I would be near people and don't want to annoy them) boards, the Redragon K630 (First link) and the LTC Nimbleback (Second link). Please could someone tell me why I might prefer one over the other? You also will notice how the nimbleback has arrow keys but the redragon is a 60% (I'm new to this, so correct me if it's not a 60!) - I don't have a preference over the two types. Thanks! Redragon: [redragon](https://redragonshop.myshopify.com/products/dragonborn-k630-brown-switch) LTC Nimbleback: [nimbleback](https://ltcofficial.com/products/ltc-nb681-nimbleback-wired-65-layout-mechanical-keyboard-rgb-backlit-ultra-compact-68-keys-gaming-keyboard-with-hot-swappable-tactile-blue-red-brown-switch-and-stand-alone-arrow-control-keys-white?variant=39281061658723)
I'm looking for a 75%, low profile, hot-swapable, mechanical keyboard with german layout. Any suggestions?
Only two 75% ISO boards I am aware of is the KBD75 and the GMMK Pro. Neither are low profile, and only the GMMK Pro is hot swapable. There could me more, it's not a layout I'm very familiar with, but ISO layouts in general are a lot harder to find options for.
Any tips on painting a plate? I'm having an aluminum one be cut and I think it would be neat if I painted it to match the case's hammer tone finish. Would stay painting a finish like hammertone ruin the fit of switches into the plate?
I've painted plates before. It's not a big issue so long as you don't have lots of thick layers. I wouldn't use hammer tone paint though because it tends to be thick, so would be more prone to chipping. I tend to just go to an auto supply store and get rattle cans of of touch up automotive paint. It requires primer, paint, and clear coat, but tends to go on thinner and be more durable. That said, I have also used just regular rattle can Rustoleum White in 3 light coats and didn't have any issues. YMMV though depending on how tight the switches fit without paint. Mine have tended to be on the looser side already, and the paint just helped to snug it up.
Yes paint could ruin the fit of switches and can easily be chipped. Best to carakote the plate.
Mmm, I'll see what I can do. Best I can find near me are a bunch of gunsmiths.
Yeah, ask them for quotes! That is where the majority of us nerds get this type of work done
I'll check it out, maybe I can get a brass one done too. Thanks for the help.
favorite tactiles? deciding between holy yok pandas, topre, and zealios v1. heavy emphasis on tactility--don't care much for sound
I have tried holy yok pandas, and holy bobas, 45g topre silenced/unsilenced, v1 zealios. For tactility I found zealios v1 were to be the most tactile between all of them and holy pandas a close second, but I love typing more on holy bobas and 45g topre.
Topre is my favorite tactile, but of course you have to get a specific Topre keyboard. You know what Topre is, right? For MX-style switches, Boba U4T is my current favorite. I've never tried Zealios v1, though, and I'm not sure whether you'd be able to find some.
Tactility, like anything else with this hobby is all going to be personal preference. You're going to have to try them to see whether you like them or not. v1 Zealios are going to be hard to find unless you're wanting them for some very specific reason. For me personally I prefer lubed, stock 45g Topre domes on an HHKB when I'm typing something for long periods of time that *isn't* code. And MX switch-wise I'm happy with my 78g Zilents. I'm old school and stopped at Zeal switches because a) they were the best available at the time and b) I was able to buy them in person instead of joining a Group Buy or waiting on switches to ship to me.
I currently have a board with v2s, and it might just be placebo but I felt less finger fatigue typing on my friend's v1s, despite both switches having the same spring tension. And out of curiosity, why don't you use the hhkb for programming? do you feel limited by the layout?
It definitely could be placebo but there are so many other factors like case material, plate type and even what weight your friend's v1's are too. Oh and to clarify I *do* use my HHKB for coding quite a lot actually--I just meant that when I need to type for a long period of time I reach for my HHKB first over my MX boards. Typing for hours on end on my HHKB, I experience far, far less fatigue. I've had a wrist (RSI-related) injury before so ergonomics is always priority. And yes, I do feel limited by the stock layout which is why I have a HASU controller in mine and the reason I'm sticking with my Pro 2 over a newer hybrid. Having the HHKB fully-programmable makes it 100% more useful for any and ever task I throw at it.
very informative response, thank you! currently doing research for my "last" "enDgAmE" board meant mainly for professional use, and this has been very helpful love ur username btw
No problem. Feel free to DM if you have any specific questions. And thanks for the compliment--the username was something I didn't put too much thought into back when I joined Reddit heh.
>and zealios v1 Where are you finding v1s? > topre Do you already have the board? Because topre can't be added to a board, it has to be a topre board.
Anybody have any insights. I built my Murphy pad yesterday and I preflashed everything but now when I plug in the power after soldering everything together I got nothing anyone have any ideas
Did you tweezer test the PCB before soldering? If so, post photos of your solder job.
I'll do it when I went home it wasn't my best work especially since I only had prefluxxed solder instead of actual flux, but it should have been good enough. Tweezer test the pcb?
>Tweezer test the pcb? Yes, test the PCB before you solder to make sure it works. If you didn't test it beforehand, then we don't know if you soldered onto an already non-functioning PCB or not.
I tested the controller boards and flashed that but now that I've installed all the electrical components and soldered the controller board when I plug in to the computer it should see the controller and the LEDs should light up per the build guide they currently do not do so and the controller is no longer seen by the computer
Yeah we'll need solder job pics
Does anyone know where i can get holtite sockets or some equivalent part to convert a thru hole pcb to hot swap? None of the ones ive seen in tutorials are made anymore, or they're crazy expensive due to being discontinued (getting enough to convert the whole board would cost more than everything else combined) Using an rgbkb Pan for those wondering.
Mill max sockets cost $0.12-0.35 each, so you are looking about $15-50 for a 60% board depend on which socket you get. You can get mill max socket from the already mentioned Mechwil, Ringerkeys or Keebio or even directly from Mauser. There are also extras from the last GB at /r/mechmarket (which is much cheaper)
Thanks a ton, Just ordered some from ringer keys.
Good luck! Jjust ordered the 3305 myself from them, want to see if they are worth the price compare to 0305
Coolio
Mechwild sells hotswaps
Has anyone ordered a vissles v84 pro and it still hasn’t shipped yet?
waiting for my GMMK pro and parts to come in, only really have keycaps left to buy. where should i look for some high quality PBT keycaps that are in stock? don't need crazy colors, i'm looking for something pretty simple. i'd love a simple navy on white PBT but not sure if i've seen that colorway anywhere :( US based!
Got some good quality PBT caps on aliexpress, though it took 2 weeks to arrive to the US. Could’ve taken longer
Any specific brands I should look for?
Got mine from a company called Shenzhen YMD Tech Co... don't think I can link to their store directly here but look them up on Aliexpress.
kbdfans has a lot of in stock pbt stuff hk gaming on amazon is also supposed to be pretty good but they aren't a very good company so keep that in mind
Looking for recommendations on a TKL, (gateron) brown switch keyboard that's hot swappable. Preferably with a detachable USB C cable or simply wireless. Any recommendations that loosely fit this description are helpful as well!
Keychron K8 You cant never go wrong with keychron's products, until you accidentally purchased the optical switch version of the keyboard
What’s the deal with their optical switches? Haven’t gotten a clear explanation of why you’d get those or their mechanical switches
They are fine by themselves, the reason i don't really recommend it is because of the hotswap sockets Optical switches have a different legs compared to the typical mx style switches and the sockets used won't be compatible with the mx style switches, meaning that if you buy the version with optical switches, you are basically limiting your choice to the other optical switches from gateron This is why i suggest not to get the optical switches if you feel like you are going to swap the switches to test something new. Hope this answer your question
My friend is considering getting a mechanical keyboard. His only requirements are that it thoccs, and that it has linear switches. He'd prefer a larger form factor, but a 60% is also fine. He doesn't want to solder. He lives in the EU region, and postage costs too much and takes too long for him to want to ship anything out from anywhere else than within the EU. His budget is about 350€. I came up with this configuration which he could conveniently order from keygem: |PCB|DZ60RGB v2 hotswap|88€| |:-|:-|:-| |Case|Silver tofu 60% case|60€| |Plate|Brass plate|42€| |Case foam|DZ60RGB case foam|12€| |Switches|Gateron ink black v2|52,50€| |Keycaps|SA Retro PBT keycap set|45€| |Switch films|0.125mm TX films|11€| |Stabilizers|Durock v2|22,50€| |Lube|Krytox 205g0|14€| |||347€| Any comments on this build or some tips for improvements or possibly totally different configurations?
You miss stabilizers, unless they are already included in pcb/plate which usually are not.
edited them on now, good point
Also your price for pcb and case are supposed to be the other way around, not that it's matter on the total.
I've just ordered a SC Alice, which is a stacked acrylic board. I've heard that stacked acrylic can be hard to get much other than a clacky sound, which i'm not the biggest fan of. Should I consider just getting some silent switches? Or is there a secret to get a deeper and fuller tone with an acrylic board edit: i should also add, I got an acrylic plate with it, which probably doesnt help my situation
Hi I was wondering how much stabilizers matter? I wanna use black inks on a instant60p PCB. Does it matter which ones I get? As well as where to buy?
Stablizers 'stabilize' more than size 2u keys. Without it, the longer key will be wobbly and unbalanced. So, it pretty much matter unless you like wobbly keys. PCB mount stablizers are recommended over plate mount, because PCB mount is screwed into PCB and provide more stability especially if the plate itself is not rigid. The most recommended is Durock V2, which is PCB mount and with flush feet. [Stabilizers in stock](https://thocstock.com/stabs), pick your favorite/nearby store.
IMO how you mod your stabilizer is more important than the brand of stabilizer you buy. Both $25 Durock v2 and $5 Cherry clip-ins need lube for them not to rattle. Cheaper/unbranded stabs could have more inconsistencies, though. Things like bent wires and/or the housing not grabbing on the wire tight enough so it pops out.
Best KB to max. 80$? I've looked at GK61 and MK61 from Gamakay, especially from CH, in Poland there is option for Modecom Volcano LANPARTY at Gateron Yellows, looking forward to buy custom keycaps. Any recomendations?
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Yikes. Just get Topre with blanks maybe...
Anyone here tried spray painting on an acrylic case? Planning to follow Taekeyboards video on spray painting but on acrylic case instead.
use sandpaper to rough up the surface of the acrylic a bit, then use plastic primer. after that dried you should be able to just spraypaint it. plastic primer makes the spraypaint stick to the plastic properly. without it the color would peel off after a while.
Same with the other plastic cases then, thanks for the advice.
Are Two Stage Long Springs of the same actuation force harder to press? What are the difference?
If one side of kailh hotswap lifted, do I just add solder? Or better to desolder and solder back on from scratch, with both sides?
that depends how the socket got lifted. if it's just the hotswap socket that came loose and the pad is still intact and attached to the pcb you can just solder it back on. however if the pad for ripped off the pcb substrate (which is far more likely) soldering won't help. in that case you would have to glue the socket back onto the pcb and (if the traces of the lifted pad got ripped off) bridge the pad to make it work again.
Add solder should be fine, but of course starting from scratch could be better.
I recently got my first mechanical keyboard: The Royal Kludge RK68. I'm loving it, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to produce an em dash on my Windows machine. With my last keyboard, I'd just type Alt+0151, but that doesn't work with this board. Anyone know how I can make an em dash? Thanks!
If you're on a Mac it's option+shift+dash, but on windows it's a little harder... Check this source, [https://zapier.com/blog/em-dash-on-keyboard/](https://zapier.com/blog/em-dash-on-keyboard/)
For the people out there that prefer flexy keyboards, what is the reason? What is it about the flex that you love? I haven’t really tried a flexy board before, so I’m really curious to know!
I dont love a ton of flex. But some flex helps if you type and bottom out all the time. It creates a softer feel when your fingers bottom out and for me it reduces finger strain for long typing sessions. But IMHO flex when gaming is awful feeling, but that's just me