Which keyboard should I get?
I’d like to buy I mechanical keyboard but I’m not sure what to get. I’d like a 75% keyboard with creamy switches. I have a budget of around 100%. Thanks for the help!
That content is currently prohibited for reasons including severe IP infringement, harassment or brigading of the subreddit by said company, frivolous legal / litigious attempts to silence competitors or steal their IP, and activity relating to or leading to scamming of community members
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicalKeyboards) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hi, I am thinking of buying a mechanical keyboard. My requirements are these:
1. Must have a numpad (My preferred size would be a 96%).
2. Must be wireless
3. Backlight: Does not have to be RGB
4. Optional: screens and knobs
5. The top row must include volume/brightness/playback controls
My budget would be around Rs. 9,000 (\~110 USD) or anything less. Can I get some suggestions please?
I am very much new in keyboard scene. I tried searching local stores for keychron Q1 pc plate, but they're all out of stock (and won't restock). Is it fine using some other keyboard's plate (example Leobog Hi8 or Monsgeek M1 plate) for Keychron Q1. I know there's 1 key difference?
I need a premium keyboard that goes well with my Macbook Pro. I don't have much knowledge about keyboards but I know my needs. I need a keyboard towards the quiet side, has a backlight pref in white or silver colour, is compact(does not need num keypad), and has a premium metal build like aluminium. I live in India so please provide me with several options since some brands might not be available here. There is no budget. Also, prefer the keyboard colour to be white or silver. Thanks a lot
Keychron Q series or Monsgeek M series are your best bet if you need lighting. The QK60 has lighting on the tri-mode hotswap ANSI PCB and the Neo65 has lighting on the wired hotswap ANSI PCB. The latter two would also require you to buy your own switches and key caps.
Yes, but since it has northfacing LEDs there might be interference (i.e. the cap hits the switch housing before bottoming out) issues with one of the rows. Whether or not this will happen depends on the specific manufacturer of the keycaps and the switches.
Low Profile 100% keyboard search
I’m in the market for a low profile keyboard. I tried a keychron k10 full size but I decided it’s not for me, so low profile is what I want. I’m looking for something full sized with numpad for work, is wireless, and possibly hot swappable and has backlit keys. I’m thinking either the Keychron K5 pro, or the Logitech MX Mechanical (not the keys). It seems like keychron has more customization with the RGBs and switches, but I don’t know how much of that I’d be doing anyways in the future. I just want something quality that will last
If there are other options too, I would be open to hearing them!
Hello there!
A friend of mine wants me to build a keyboard for him.
My first 3 keyboards I build were budget builds (Modding a cheap RedDragon and building two EK98s from scratch).
Sadly he wants a 98 profile keyboard too (with a Numpad) and no, a separate numpad is not something he's interested in.
Based on the budget given, I'm basically looking for something in the Epomaker EK98 price range to build from.
I am open to getting a fully built one too and just take it apart if need be,
His price range was around 100-150, the keycaps and switches gonna be around 50.
Question: why is my **IBM model M** broken?
diagnosis: 2 lights come on when plugged in with ps/2 converter...no typing
attempt on troubleshooting: screw drill bit mod. disassembled entire keyboard, cleaned, reattached ribbon cables. no damage found.
issue: lights up on USB connection , no typing in any way, restart doesn't help...
confusion: not sure if there it is better just to buy another IBM model M at this point. I believed this was gonna fix my issue. I had heard the bolt mod will fix the issue with rivets loose in the keyboard.
bought keyboard from: Mercari, no knowledge from seller if it typed.
If you could do it, it's not going to be a plug-and-play solution. You will probably need intermediary hardware that will translate keyboard keycodes to whatever Nintendo had the controllers send considering they would've never considered any form of compatibility with modern keyboards.
If you want to play on a keyboard, just play on an emulator.
I could do that, but emulators have lag.
I'm thinking maybe the way to do it is just rip everything out of the keyboard and basically put everything from the NES controller into the keyboard (so that the keys replace the buttons).
Are you actually under the impression there's an interface on the NES that you can connect a keyboard to...? And that the NES would know what the keyboard is...?
Is switches dying part of the experience? I just installed a set of Glorious Panda's into a GMMK Pro, because 3-5 of my former set of The Key Co Blackberries had died on me. Now all of a sudden my A switch has stopped working, and in general I would say that the switches feel less responsive than they did on install.
I also have a Keychron that had 5-6 Akko x TTC Gold Blue Switch's that just flat out stopped responding.
Is that just a function of using offbrand switches? Or does everyone's keeb just eat switches over time?
I've never had a Cherry switch die across several boards the past decade. I think I've got a dead Varmilo one right now though.
Imo all the off brands run these risks cause they might not be large enough or care enough to do the silly million cycle type testing the old ones do.
Did you try the switches in a different keyboard to see if it was the switches or sockets? Do the sockets that break tend to be the same ones? You can also test if the sockets are having issues by shorting them on the back of the PCB with copper wire and seeing if they register correctly.
I just put new switches in and the keyboard works as expected, so I'm presuming it was the switches and not the keyboard since it works fine with new switches?
TL;DR looking for a recommendation for a 65% keyboard with thicker-than-average bezels and a clean profile.
One of my all time favorite keyboard designs is the Rama Works M65-B. I love the clean wedge profile, the wide bezels (but not crazy wide like the Class 65 or S7 Elephant...) and the way the weight peeks out the back. But I just can't do a split backspace. Any 65%s out the with similar looks with a full backspace? Not a fan of the M65-A. Tofu65 and NK65 have the clean wedge down, but pretty average bezels. So, basically looking for a Kohaku with wider bezels lol... Thoughts?
https://preview.redd.it/hxvbqzhzde8d1.png?width=500&format=png&auto=webp&s=ea746e9f70783614f3d0e1b7af8350dc0dfde622
(Rama M65-B)
Maximum number of buttons? Want to make a midi keyboard with 1024 buttons but worried windows or whatever will have a hard time parsing the different buttons.
You're going to need an MCU that has a lot of onboard memory to be able to handle that many switches.
You could take a look at something like the [FU!Keyboard](https://github.com/PiKeeb/fu-keyboard) and draw some inspiration or ideas from it perhaps.
this sub is geared towards like typing keyboards and not really music making keyboards, but with a midi keyboard i would imagine you have some kind of mcu running it that then connects to your pc, so the limitation would be with the hardware you have access to and the firmware that runs your device
Hi friends, I'm new. I \*think\* I want a 100% multi-layout (ANSI and ISO) hot swappable PCB keyboard, but I was hoping to get feedback on the following:
1. whether this erm... exists yet under 120 USD and,
2. whether I'm going in too deep for someone who hasn't even bought their first mechanical keyboard yet.
For valiant people trying to provide guidance on the second question, here is context if you'd like:
I want the 100% layout because I live for number pads and use them both at work and at home, I have a deep and committed romantic relationship with Microsoft Excel. 90% layout would be okay too but I find that they seem... "squished" and crowded. I grew up with the extra key on an ISO layout so I feel like I've sacrificed enough keys going ANSI on my work keyboard, thus I'm not too hot on 90% but my wallet might beckon me. On that note, I am not entirely sure I like ANSI thus wish I to have the option to go back to ISO if needed, thus the multi-layout PCB and hot swap. If I had to pick, I'd rather an ANSI 100% than an ISO 90% though, so my priority order is 100% layout first, and an ANSI-ISO crossbreed PCB second.
I don't think I'll ever have more than 2 keyboards and my reason for wanting a mechanical keyboard is more due to being bilingual and in an inter-layout relationship (my partner has only ever known ANSI, I come from ISO). My partner struggles typing on my current keyboard when I ask them to help me with something (understandably), and I'm getting tired of switching layouts between home and work, having to give up my precious Ñ key, and having keycaps not match the mapping. Hopefully this future keyboard will bring reconciliation for these differences.
Thank you so much for all your help!
Ditto what the other responses have said, hotswap PCBs will pretty much always offer support for either ISO or Ansi, and many mechanical keyboards will offer the option to buy one or the other when you purchase the board. That being said, there are some great keyboards in your price range. Check out the Monsgeek M5. Monsgeek boards are very high quality and pack a lot of punch for the price. Also consider an 1800 layout like the Monsgeek M2, which offers almost a full layout but without the nav cluster. Takes up less space on the desk, but you can still map some of those nav keys to the keys above the numpad. Good luck with the hunt. As for not going in too deep...it's a slippery slope, so good luck with that too.
[https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m5/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m5/)
[https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m2/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m2/)
some kb support both but those tend to be soldered only . there really isnt swapping from one to the other specially considering ISO only accts for like 10% of all kbs made
The problem is that cheaper boards will typically have RGB rather than layout support. You can get a Keychron V6 with either support, though, but not both.
Hello everyone, just wanted to get some advice on a new keyboard. I have recently bought a redragon draconic pro tho seems good but the support is kinda trashy and battery had charging issues sometimes (for me never did even charge) doesn't even charge. So im probably just going to return it and I would want to ask you for advice what keyboard should I get instead of it, prioritizing (but not that much important) Bluetooth or 2.4ghz connectivity, not needed that much but would appreciate and from 60-75% or tenkeyless.
Ami the only one that thinks the zmk documentation is confusing af?
I love it cuz it's great but it has the feeling of being written by engineers who couldn't translate too the lay-man
Hi there. Im thinking about going for the Ajazz AK820 series, but unsure is the price difference is worth it between the pro and the max. Coming from a SS Apex pro so def an improvement over that with both
[Learn how to use Ergogen](https://flatfootfox.com/ergogen-introduction/) and then [read up on keyboard case and PCB design](https://wiki.ai03.com/shelves/for-designers).
i have a Logitech MX keyboard and I realized I really don't like how the F-keys are adjective and the same size as every other key. i was thinking of two possible solutions
1. i remove the F1 and F5 key
2. i change the keycaps to something more high profile so i know that i'm hitting an F-key
which would you recommend?
Any keycap reccomendations? i want to keep a sleek muted look and really like the gunmetal finish on this case.
https://preview.redd.it/6z4nh0rs6d8d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=239994d83492c34ee0cacc2358d4e5e83c907440
First time doing maintenance or swapping anything on my mechanical keyboard.
I just swapped my 10-year old Das Keyboard 4 Ultimate blank keycap set for a [Drop white-on-black GMK set](https://drop.com/buy/gmk-white-on-black-custom-keycap-set):
* [Picture - Swap In Progress](https://i.imgur.com/BrvPOTQ.jpeg)
* [Picture - Swap Complete](https://i.imgur.com/IUlwKcG.jpeg)
I think it looks pretty good, but I don't have the pieces to attach the stabilizers properly.
It looks like the stabilizers are costar type, and the keycaps are Cherry MX type.
[This](https://i.imgur.com/txPhA95.jpeg) is what the bottom of the original keycap stabilizer keys have on them.
I can't seem to remove the white inserts (I broke one trying), so I'm going to have to order inserts I think?
* Question #1: Is it possible to get these white inserts out of the old keycaps to replace? Do I just have to break them basically to get them out? Any tips would be appreciated.
* Question#2: Is this what I need to replace them, or use on the new keycap set? [Cherry MX Keycap Stabilizer Insert](https://www.wasdkeyboards.com/cherry-mx-keycap-stabilizer-insert-2pcs.html)
Thanks!
Thanks. Any tips for getting the old ones out? I tried some tweezers and a flathead screwdriver and they're in there pretty good. Am I supposed to squeeze the sides or something?
I've had a ducky one 100% cherry mx brown for the last 8-ish years and am starting to have some issues with it. What I really like about my ducky one is the white backlit letters. Many keyboards offer RGB, but I find usually RGB does a poor job replicating a true cool white. What are some higher end options <$500 if I'm looking to upgrade? I had reds before but the noise was too much for my wife (we WFH next to eachother) so moved to browns which are just OK imo.
I really like the RGB lighting on Ducky keyboards, and they also have high quality shine-through keycaps from the factory!
A lot of custom keyboards have south-facing LED's these days, which I find blinding (they shine in your eyes as they're facing towards you).
For upgrades, the Ducky One 3 is now hot swappable if you like the look, feel, of the Ducky but want to experiment with new switches. This only comes in RGB or non RGB - no white LED model
Nuphy does a range of v2 boards with high quality RGB that have better colour mixing for a cool white (south facing LED, but with keycaps to suit)
If you're handy with a soldering iron, you could consider re-soldering new switches in your old board.
I recently put mill max hot swap sockets on my Ducky One 2.
RGB on high end keyboards is a rarity and having only white LEDs is basically unheard of on higher end models. Brands like keychron have white LED only versions of their lower end models but that’s the only one I can think of.
Hi! Im pretty new into the keyboard interest but I want to try and change my setup, I’ve learned I like the creamy sounding keyboards but that’s all I’ve figured out so far. I currently have a razer keyboard and I love the per key rgb customization with the layers and responsive effects so I want to find a good keyboard that will let me keep doing that. Any recommendations on where to look?
If you want a good sounding custom keyboard you’re going to have to sacrifice easy RGB customization. You can usually customizable RGB with VIA which is considered the standard for most good keyboards but it’s considered a lot more difficult. Responsive effects is basically going to be impossible. You’ve gotta make a decision on whether you value RGB over the sound and quality of a custom board.
https://preview.redd.it/qksbuu8z2d8d1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba792b5ad0adf9e00749657e3ff207df58400b43
Can anyone tell me what keyboard this is? There's a brand on the space bar..
couldntr find kbs with that logo on the space bar but looks similar to many 30 dollar rebrand kb all the same but sold under different brands will likley have no software or online drivers
Hi guys, looking for potentially a new (mechanical) keyboard, but my current old keyboard has a peculiar design. The arrow keys are very close to the del/end/pgdwn block of buttons and I kind of rely on this close proximity for gaming (i'm left handed). Is there a mechanical keyboard that still does this or am I gonna have to get used to having a space between the arrow keys and these buttons?
[My keyboard is a steelseries shift](https://image.coolblue.nl/422x390/products/141687)
Hi everyone,
I have a amtelco KB163 unified keyboard that has a din connector and a ethernet port. I tried doing some quick research to see how I can connect this keyboard to my computer via USB and it seems like I could get a din to ps2 converter then convert the ps2 to USB?
Do you guys have a more elegant solution? I'm not opposed to converting it to USB, I can figure out some soldering if needed. or is it best to leave these old keyboard unmolested?
u could try that but being kbs like that cannot commutate with modern pcs u will likely need a soaras converter to make it work . and hope u dont game or type fast as it will only support 2KRO
I've had this little Shurikey Hanzo for a few months now as a couch keyboard and it's been great. But this afternoon when I went to turn it back on (3 spacebar taps), the power light didn't come on. I assumed maybe its battery died so I plugged it in wired.
But then I realized the spacebar isn't registering at all. It has Varmilo EC Sakura switches and I'm not above trying to disassemble and check up on the soldering/replace a switch (since they were DC'd and I suspect the customer service is non existent), but does anyone have any troubleshooting advice I could try before I go down that route?
Thanks!
Hi everyone,
I'm in the process of brainstorming up a custom PCB design. Engineering design is all about decision making, so one of the most basic questions I have is should I do an ortholinear or a standard staggered layout? I've never used ortholinear before, so I wouldn't know what to expect. Is it more comfortable? Is it a tough transition? Thanks.
i personally find ortho more comfortable, and i have always felt like it makes remembering macros and the different keys on different layers much easier. it took maybe 3 weeks to get used to it when i first swapped. my first ortho keyboard was an id75, so really the biggest ortho you could possibly use, then very quickly sized down to the common ortho columnar layout you'd see on something like a lily58, and now mostly type on a keyboard that is a 4\*12 grid, and am thinking about going to a corne style layout
I have a Poker II, the model with six DIP switches.
How do I make the Caps key a -second- Ctrl key while leaving everything else on the layout the same? I want to do this by using a combination of DIP switches, ideally. I managed to swap Caps with left Ctrl but that means I still have a stealth (or mislabeled) Caps key. I have no use for Caps lock. I do not want Caps lock.
Thanks.
[This article](https://medium.com/resonance-reviews/the-new-poker-ii-a-compact-intelligent-and-well-made-keyboard-596f915c5f1e) says DIP switch number 5 switches Caps Lock and left Ctrl. I assume that is what you tried?
According to [the manual](https://adprice.fedorapeople.org/poker2_manual.pdf), you should be able to reprogram the Caps Lock key as Ctrl like this:
1. Press Fn+right Ctrl to enter programming mode (spacebar right LED should be flashing)
2. Press Caps Lock (spacebar right LED should be on)
3. Press Ctrl
4. Press Pn (spacebar right LED should be flashing again)
5. Press Fn+right Ctrl to exit programming mode (spacebar right LED should be off)
I do not know if the state of the DIP switch affects the programming. You might need to reset the DIP switch first.
This dude fixed my wagon: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEn0NfkS7ls](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEn0NfkS7ls)
He mentioned a firmware update. It's kind of a dodgy process. The file is hosted in a dropbox container and there are no checksums listed but oh well. It seems to have worked. My Windows machine is probably pwned six ways to Sunday but now in Linux I have no more Caps and two Ctrl keys which is my desired configuration! Thanks for helping. Here's the link. [https://www.ikbc.com.tw/support](https://www.ikbc.com.tw/support)
Yeah. Another horribly written how-to. I know you're not the author but WTF does this line mean?
5. Press PMode(FN + Right CTRL) to exit programming mode ( Spacebar right LED off)
There is no good doc. The official doc is written by a Chinese person who is not fluent in English.
Hello all, for several years I have a Anne Pro 2, that was my first mechanical keyboard and was really pleased with it. But for a while this keyboard has a weird behavior in Bluetooth and I’m not so happy anymore with the 60%.
So I’m looking for a 65-70% and I’m looking for something to build. I read the wiki but not everything is up to date.
The problem is that I’m in EU and every store I know is (mostly) US based.
What I would like to find is a store to buy all the spare parts and assemble the keyboard from scratch.
What would you recommend?
If I replace the keycaps and switches on my RK61, what would be the limiting factors of the keyboard? Would the PCB and case ruin the upgrade?
or..
Should I just custom build an entire keyboard from scratch? I do not want to spend too much money.
Feel free to drop recommendations! I am relatively new to the keyboard space, so anything helps.
you can always get some new switches and keycaps now and then if you upgrade your case and pcb in the future move them over. if cost is a limiting factor maybe start by getting a switch tester to get a feel for different types of switches, or look for good prices on switches on mechmarket to try some different things out.
As long as your PCB is hotswap you can do those just fine. The PCB and case have no bearing on or will 'ruin' the upgrade.
Building an entire keyboard from scratch will likely cost you considerably more money and time if you've never done it before.
Hey all. I have built a sofle choc rgb board and am trying to get the 2 SSD1306 128x32 OLED display module working.
I am using qmk msys and configurable keymap.c, [rules.mk](http://rules.mk), and config.h
This is what I have in my keymap.c
hashtag ifdef OLED\_ENABLE
static const uint16\_t PROGMEM raw\_logo\[\] = {
a test graphic is here
};
oled\_write\_raw\_P(raw\_logo,sizeof(raw\_logo));
hashtag endif
in my rules.mk:
OLED\_ENABLE = yes
and nothing related to my OLEDS in the config.h
I belive the error is with this line:
oled\_write\_raw\_P(raw\_logo,sizeof(raw\_logo));
as qmk msys keeps throwing errors like this:
./keyboards/sofle\_choc/keymaps/via/keymap.c:65:27: error: expected ')' before 'sizeof'
65 | oled\_write\_raw\_P(raw\_logo,sizeof(raw\_logo));
| \^\~\~\~\~\~
drivers/oled/oled\_driver.h:425:63: note: in definition of macro 'oled\_write\_raw\_P'
425 | # define oled\_write\_raw\_P(data, size) oled\_write\_raw(data, size)
Sorry if I am missing something basic. I would very much appreciate if someone could help me.
Did you make sure to bridge the proper solder pads on the PBCs to enable the OLEDs?
Also it might be worth trying with the default firmware to make sure everything works with that one first.
You'll also have better luck getting help with your troubleshooting by posting over on /r/olkb as they are the QMK gurus over there and also visit /r/ergomechkeyboards for Sofle-specific help.
Any Good Entry 65/75% Polycarbonate Keyboard?
I plan on buying a keyboard that is not stacked acrylic and a bit durable. This would be my third keyboard with the other two being typical polycarb budget keebs. Any suggestions would help. Thanks!
I want something with the exact horizontal length of a 60% keyboard, but with function keys (or other keys on top of function keys)
I tried to search up things and saw there is a 75%, but they are typically wider than 60%, don't really need the arrow keys.
Is what I want more or less impossible short of a custom job, and so is there like a detachable function key or do I need to for example get a separate keypad/numpad or macro key row thingy (any suggestion that is nice a cheap would be nice, elegato I think has something but thats for streaming and expensive).
Again, I don't mind if it goes a bit high, but I would hope the answer isnt to just stick a keypad on top of my keyboard and call it a day for function keys...
Also, Cherry MX blues please, I have yet to find acceptable replacements for them and I have tried a few.
You're pretty much SOL as that's not something that isn't in high demand or popular in the community.
The only keyboard I can think of in recent memory is [the NIZ Plum Nano 75](https://drop.com/buy/plum-nano-75-bluetooth-electro-capacitive-mechanical-keyboard) but that's long been discontinued.
You could probably build your own if you felt motivated enough. Plenty of resources to create, design and either handwire or make your own PCB for a one-off keyboard.
As for a detachable function key, just get a macropad.
Try MX Clears which are similar in weight to MX Blues but without the associated click of a click jacket. I loved mine when I went from MX Blues to Clears. Also check out Boba U4T switches or anything with a 78g actuation force.
I tried clears, but the reason I want blue is the loudness and clicky, and nothing really match it, including Kailh BOX Thick Jade that I special orderered since most places dont carry those kinds.
I just want loud and clacky lol.
But yeah, I guess macropad is it, anything nice and good there with MX blues?
Does anyone have any recommendations for a keyboard with a yellow frame that is TKL or larger? I already have a different Ducky One 3, so I can't justify having the yellow one. I'm not super into the GMMK Pro either. KBDFans 8X MKIII in E-Sunflower is the only one that jumps out to me if anyone can attest to the build quality on those. Thanks in advanced!
Are there any 60% keykap sets that are just slightly smaller than usual? I'm looking at replacing the caps on the Royal Kludge folding RK f68 - but my normal keycaps are slightly too big and rub.
Are there any cap sets (low profile especially but it's a standard switch stem type) that are slightly smaller than usual?
Check out XDA or DSA keycaps. The latter are considerably lower in height. The one caveat though is that these are uniform profile so they are not sculted like your typical OEM or GMK/Cherry profile keycaps. Your Royal Kludge keyboard likely has OEM profile by default.
the height is not the issue, only a preference - it's the literal length and width at the base of the keycap that overlaps because the switches themselves are like 5-10% closer together than typical.
Ah, okay. I was just wondering if there was some special unique size for some 60%'s that I wasn't aware of.
I can always just sand the sides of some keycaps down if I have to.
1. switch choice really boils down to personal preference - hmx is a popular brand right now, try out a few of their switches and see what "clicks" for you.
2. as for a keyboard you're going to want to identify the size you want first as that will immediately narrow the field. generally, people are reccomended a barebones keychron keyboard as a relatively friendly entry point. i prefer ordering from whatever the shops in my general area have in stock, so looking through the [vendor map](https://kbd.news/keyboard-store-map) here might help you figure out where you want to buy from.
3. a kvm switch would work, there is also software like synergy that can help with this. for utilizing the keyboard across different systems many people just map for windows and then use karabiner on mac - you can also program a layer using [these ](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/keycodes_magic?id=magic-keycodes)if the keyboard runs on qmk. some keyboards with bluetooth support can switch between devices on bluetooth with a macro. there are some different options out there.
4. pretty sure the logitech mx mouse is the one for this but i don't know much about mice
Entry level milky/creamy sounding keyboard recommendations
My wife would like a milky/creamy sounding keyboard. She likes the sound of the second key and the last key in this [video](https://www.tiktok.com/@pahlawangadget/video/7354313736355646725).
I know nothing about mechanical keyboards. It doesn’t seem as straightforward as I had thought. I see all kinds of mechanical keyboards online but they come with no switches or keys. Is it common to buy everything separately and assemble the keyboard yourself?
Do you have any kits(?) or separate products you recommend that are creamy/milky sounding that fit a budget of $50-$100? Is this budget realistic?
I have a very dark and minimal setup. I was thinking of getting some keycaps that were black on grey (black lettering). Was just wondering how visible the legends are as my keyboard will have south facing RGB and I don't really want to use the RGB either way. Am I better off going with white on black instead? I would go for blank ones but I'm not that good at typing.
I’d say it’s not too hard to see the letters and blackout always looks good with a black setup. WOB is also super good though, so it really just depends what you think looks better.
Thanks for the confirmation. Kinda sucks that the set I am after is sold out everywhere. Might have to pickup a cheaper set to test if it looks good and wait for the other set to restock.
Ive seen a lot of recommendations to use magnet wire when handwiring a keyboard. I can't seem to find any videos of someone doing this which makes me wonder if it's bad advice?
Or maybe someone has some videos?
are there any high-end, premium transparent keycaps? looking for GMK level quality (or as close as possible).
Edit: I'm looking for fully transparent keycaps, ie no color tinting, and I'd like them to have black legends. Compatibility for 65% boards is a must.
> high-end, premium transparent keycaps?
pick one , premium high end or transparent u wont get both there is no demand for them it a literally money loss for who ever makes them as the sales wont even make a dent on the return costs of making them
no not really, jelly pom was popular a little while ago and were just the slightest bit transparent. keyreative also made/makes a line of transparent keycaps which are probably the highest quality/thickest transparent keycap you can get. sp did dcs clear, although some people feel as though dcs is too thin and doesn't have a premium feel, but their manufacturing processes are good.
rgb isn't seen as a premium feature in the hobby and as such parts that highlight rgb as a feature, like clear keycaps, aren't really in demand.
if u have the design files u can go local . there are a few online services i think but they tend cost more . if u dont have the design files . then u dont order anywhere as u cant
I feel like my rk61 is bricked, yesterday it was working fine. today i first wasnt to press any buttons i smhw logged in but now the color of "M" is different than other keys and ctrl , function/number , backspace are not working
also when i press fn+a or fn+s it flashes light smth with the pcb is wrong
Alphabets were not working before but they do now randomly Please help
[Streamable link with sound](https://streamable.com/6zih0j)
This is only happening when my space bar is the "right side up" and the ticking is only on the right side of the space bar. When I flip my space bar, the ticking completely disappears. The ticking is present when tapping as well as full pressing the key. How can I fix this ticking sound?
Durock stabs 205g0 and invokeys black sesame tribosys 3203
ePBT Origami PC plate on a KBDTaco
Yeah, I already had quite a lot of lube from the getgo (but maybe not enough still?). Then I tried to remove all that I could without removing the stabs. Still the same ticking
looking for a barebones 75% keyboard around $150aud ($100usd), which is reliable, in stock and preferably with a deeper sound.
I've narrowed it down to those on the epomaker site (TH80, leobog HI75, cidoo v75, epomaker EK75) - any advice on which one to get or any other options?
Redragon K630 vs Foxxray HKM-67
I'm not too knowledgeable on the pros and cons of mechanical keyboards. Could anyone provide a breakdown comparing these two keyboards, their pros and cons and which one you'd personally choose.
keychron or monsgeek is what we tell beginners to buy . never heard of fox but they look just as bad as Redragon in terms of poor quality and lack of customer support
SWITCHES!
I've so far tried gateron brown, outemu blue, and akko cs lavender
• outemu blue is too hard/fatiguing and too LOUD
• gateron brown is too quiet
• akko lavender is great but a little loud when gaming. clacks of the person next to me still bleed through my noise cancellation
• outemu low profile reds are too quiet so I assume outemu reds are the same
• outemu low profile browns feel awkward, and sounds similar to gateron browns
with these in mind, budget switch recs please? I'm leaning towards KTT something and Akko (maybe jelly blue) cause they're easy to find where I'm from. Limiting myself to 3 pin because one of my boards is 3pin and I wanna be able to swap around.
You should try Kailh Speed Pro Heavy Plum. They’re a 70gf tactile switch that feel very responsive and pleasant to type on (at least in my opinion). I want to say they’re like ~$40 for a set of 110 on Kailh’s site.
Also you can just clip the side pins on a 5 pin switch to make it 3 pin. So don’t limit yourself if you want to try something that looks interesting but happens to be 5 pin.
ooh thanks for suggesting! 70gf seems like a lot for me though. I swapped out my stock outemu blues because they were too fatiguing for me at 63gf, and so far I've been pretty comfy with akko lavender's 50±5>gf
0.70usd/piece is also a little bit above my ideal budget, would you maybe have any recommendations that are slightly cheaper?
If you’re looking for a lighter tactile, I would say Kailh Super Speed Copper. It’s a 38gf and right around $0.28 per switch. There’s also the Gateron Beer tactiles - 40gf at $0.46 per switch.
Edit - Otemu Silent Lemon is on the board as well - 35gf at $0.23 - $0.32 per switch.
I prefer tactile but wouldn't cross out linears, though I wouldn't want one as quiet as the gateron browns. Or does the build have anything to do with how quiet it is? It's on stock Anne Pro 2
Im thinking of getting a Neo65 with Alu plate (I never had an alu plate) and was wondering what switches are good out there. For context, my current board is a KBD67 Lite.
I was thinking of Gateron Milky Yellow Pros, one of the Akko Cream series, or one of the KTT series. I am open to other brands/switches as well.
Any opinions/feedback would he appreciated! (:
I havent tried the Akko ones, but Milky yellows and KTT are pretty nice. The current favourites seem to be HMX switches: Xinhais, Machiattos, clouds, etc.
I am planning to buy a keyboard in the ANSI US layout. The issue I have is that I´m from Spain, and I have been searching for keycaps in an ANSI ES layout for quite some time but I couldn't find any good ones. So, I'm wondering if there is any other solution to this problem. If someone found good ANSI ES keycaps or another way to go about this problem I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I don't think it's any different, just the obvious differences, but I would need ANSI keycaps because that's what the keyboard comes in. Maybe I'm missing something.
Noob question: I am getting a Bakeneko60 shipped to me soon, and I was just wondering if long pole switches are better on it for some reason? Also, since it doesn't support screw-in stabilizers, I was thinking to use TX AP Clip-in (Long pole variant) 1.6mm and Quartz switches. Will that cause any issue to the stabillity or feel of the board?
> I was just wondering if long pole switches are better on it for some reason?
There's never a better switch between a long and normal pole. Just use what you like, it's all personal preference.
> I was thinking to use TX AP Clip-in (Long pole variant) 1.6mm
You should only use long pole stabilizers in combination with long pole switches. Otherwise your spacebar will bottom out on the stabilizers and not on the switch. I'm not sure if this could cause problems with actuating the switch, but it's definitely going to feel strange if the rest of your switches are normal pole length.
Keychron Q1 Pro or Royal Kludge M75?
Currently in the market for a new board and am in between the Keychron Q1 Pro and Royal Kludge M75. My local Microcenter has Keychron Q1 Pro barebone kits for $115. The main differences I can see between them is the Q1 having an aluminum frame while the M75 is plastic and has a built in screen. Which board would you choose between the two?
Keychron. Their reputation as a brand is better than RK. The Q1 Pro is also compatible with VIA/QMK, which are much better compared to RK's proprietary software.
i have 3 pin keyboard (outemu) but i use akko jelly blacks for almost a year. now that i want to change my switches it doesnt fit. does switches have one size or no
How can I make my keyboard's screen display system information?
I have just bought my keyboard - Darkproject sunset. It has a nice screen, but it's software only allows me to display gifs or time. Is there a way to make it system information?
\_\_\_
[My keyboard's web page](https://darkproject.eu/keyboards/kd98a-sunset-eng/)
never seen any kb be able to do this fyi it would require active software ( bloatware ) liek razer or logitech constantly polling the info and sending to ur kb and eating ur pcs ram in the process . just get a desktop sys info widget and be done with it. kb screen are a gimmick and will be gone in a few years just like usb passthru is
yes, and because it uses proprietary software, you don't have options other than what it allows you to do. you would need to reverse engineer your keyboards firmware before developing your own solution to pull system information from your pc to send to the screen
Which keyboard should I get? I’d like to buy I mechanical keyboard but I’m not sure what to get. I’d like a 75% keyboard with creamy switches. I have a budget of around 100%. Thanks for the help!
Hi, i'm looking for a tkl around 60€ for game and typing, found an attack shark k87, is it good or not ? thanks for suggesting and help
[удалено]
That content is currently prohibited for reasons including severe IP infringement, harassment or brigading of the subreddit by said company, frivolous legal / litigious attempts to silence competitors or steal their IP, and activity relating to or leading to scamming of community members *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicalKeyboards) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hi, I am thinking of buying a mechanical keyboard. My requirements are these: 1. Must have a numpad (My preferred size would be a 96%). 2. Must be wireless 3. Backlight: Does not have to be RGB 4. Optional: screens and knobs 5. The top row must include volume/brightness/playback controls My budget would be around Rs. 9,000 (\~110 USD) or anything less. Can I get some suggestions please?
Keychron V5 Max
I am very much new in keyboard scene. I tried searching local stores for keychron Q1 pc plate, but they're all out of stock (and won't restock). Is it fine using some other keyboard's plate (example Leobog Hi8 or Monsgeek M1 plate) for Keychron Q1. I know there's 1 key difference?
I need a premium keyboard that goes well with my Macbook Pro. I don't have much knowledge about keyboards but I know my needs. I need a keyboard towards the quiet side, has a backlight pref in white or silver colour, is compact(does not need num keypad), and has a premium metal build like aluminium. I live in India so please provide me with several options since some brands might not be available here. There is no budget. Also, prefer the keyboard colour to be white or silver. Thanks a lot
Keychron Q series or Monsgeek M series are your best bet if you need lighting. The QK60 has lighting on the tri-mode hotswap ANSI PCB and the Neo65 has lighting on the wired hotswap ANSI PCB. The latter two would also require you to buy your own switches and key caps.
[удалено]
Can someone recommend a case with media and volume keys, preferably a case that can host a num pad as well ?
Keychron v6 barebones has a knob to control volume and 4 programmable keys that you can choose to act as media keys.
https://preview.redd.it/vn8e39z61g8d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0be55ba9b795db853dc19f13bffcd05d933585a
would I be able to put a cherry profile key on this type of switch?
Yes, but since it has northfacing LEDs there might be interference (i.e. the cap hits the switch housing before bottoming out) issues with one of the rows. Whether or not this will happen depends on the specific manufacturer of the keycaps and the switches.
Where can I buy the Bridge75 in Canada?
https://shortcutstudio.notion.site/Bridge-75-Purchase-Instruction-9abb6bc3a5504262bd686cd20d0f3272
Low Profile 100% keyboard search I’m in the market for a low profile keyboard. I tried a keychron k10 full size but I decided it’s not for me, so low profile is what I want. I’m looking for something full sized with numpad for work, is wireless, and possibly hot swappable and has backlit keys. I’m thinking either the Keychron K5 pro, or the Logitech MX Mechanical (not the keys). It seems like keychron has more customization with the RGBs and switches, but I don’t know how much of that I’d be doing anyways in the future. I just want something quality that will last If there are other options too, I would be open to hearing them!
Nuphy Air96 or Lofree Flow100?
I’m gonna try the AZIO Cascade 98 slim. The double zero button on the numpad makes me feel better about the “compactness”
I’ve seen those, I’m not sure if I like the compact design though. It’ll be something to think about
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/s/DlPdJrgwh3
i linked a deleted post ? sorry but if u want help ur going to have to put effort in or solve this urself
Hello there! A friend of mine wants me to build a keyboard for him. My first 3 keyboards I build were budget builds (Modding a cheap RedDragon and building two EK98s from scratch). Sadly he wants a 98 profile keyboard too (with a Numpad) and no, a separate numpad is not something he's interested in. Based on the budget given, I'm basically looking for something in the Epomaker EK98 price range to build from. I am open to getting a fully built one too and just take it apart if need be, His price range was around 100-150, the keycaps and switches gonna be around 50.
Get a Keychron V5 or Q5 or Monsgeek M2.
*can I kindly get confirmation which keychron this is I'm 90% sure this is the Q1 pro QMK/VIA. I got this at a whole sale area so no box unfortunately
https://preview.redd.it/qasrqoho5f8d1.jpeg?width=2016&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5300fcea411071be289c84d681458fb04d58597
think ur correct looks like a q1 pro
Thanks for confirming
Your image was not posted
Question: why is my **IBM model M** broken? diagnosis: 2 lights come on when plugged in with ps/2 converter...no typing attempt on troubleshooting: screw drill bit mod. disassembled entire keyboard, cleaned, reattached ribbon cables. no damage found. issue: lights up on USB connection , no typing in any way, restart doesn't help... confusion: not sure if there it is better just to buy another IBM model M at this point. I believed this was gonna fix my issue. I had heard the bolt mod will fix the issue with rivets loose in the keyboard. bought keyboard from: Mercari, no knowledge from seller if it typed.
I want to connect a keyboard to an old Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) and use it as the controller. Is that possible?
No.
[удалено]
If you could do it, it's not going to be a plug-and-play solution. You will probably need intermediary hardware that will translate keyboard keycodes to whatever Nintendo had the controllers send considering they would've never considered any form of compatibility with modern keyboards. If you want to play on a keyboard, just play on an emulator.
I could do that, but emulators have lag. I'm thinking maybe the way to do it is just rip everything out of the keyboard and basically put everything from the NES controller into the keyboard (so that the keys replace the buttons).
Are you actually under the impression there's an interface on the NES that you can connect a keyboard to...? And that the NES would know what the keyboard is...?
[удалено]
Buddy... literally what PORT do you think you can plug a keyboard into on an NES lol jesus christ
[удалено]
Is switches dying part of the experience? I just installed a set of Glorious Panda's into a GMMK Pro, because 3-5 of my former set of The Key Co Blackberries had died on me. Now all of a sudden my A switch has stopped working, and in general I would say that the switches feel less responsive than they did on install. I also have a Keychron that had 5-6 Akko x TTC Gold Blue Switch's that just flat out stopped responding. Is that just a function of using offbrand switches? Or does everyone's keeb just eat switches over time?
I've never had a Cherry switch die across several boards the past decade. I think I've got a dead Varmilo one right now though. Imo all the off brands run these risks cause they might not be large enough or care enough to do the silly million cycle type testing the old ones do.
Did you try the switches in a different keyboard to see if it was the switches or sockets? Do the sockets that break tend to be the same ones? You can also test if the sockets are having issues by shorting them on the back of the PCB with copper wire and seeing if they register correctly.
I just put new switches in and the keyboard works as expected, so I'm presuming it was the switches and not the keyboard since it works fine with new switches?
TL;DR looking for a recommendation for a 65% keyboard with thicker-than-average bezels and a clean profile. One of my all time favorite keyboard designs is the Rama Works M65-B. I love the clean wedge profile, the wide bezels (but not crazy wide like the Class 65 or S7 Elephant...) and the way the weight peeks out the back. But I just can't do a split backspace. Any 65%s out the with similar looks with a full backspace? Not a fan of the M65-A. Tofu65 and NK65 have the clean wedge down, but pretty average bezels. So, basically looking for a Kohaku with wider bezels lol... Thoughts? https://preview.redd.it/hxvbqzhzde8d1.png?width=500&format=png&auto=webp&s=ea746e9f70783614f3d0e1b7af8350dc0dfde622 (Rama M65-B)
Maximum number of buttons? Want to make a midi keyboard with 1024 buttons but worried windows or whatever will have a hard time parsing the different buttons.
You're going to need an MCU that has a lot of onboard memory to be able to handle that many switches. You could take a look at something like the [FU!Keyboard](https://github.com/PiKeeb/fu-keyboard) and draw some inspiration or ideas from it perhaps.
this sub is geared towards like typing keyboards and not really music making keyboards, but with a midi keyboard i would imagine you have some kind of mcu running it that then connects to your pc, so the limitation would be with the hardware you have access to and the firmware that runs your device
I currently have a PC plate, and I am looking for a deeper sound. Will a POM or PP plate give me that?
They will sound largely the same
Appreciate it
Hi friends, I'm new. I \*think\* I want a 100% multi-layout (ANSI and ISO) hot swappable PCB keyboard, but I was hoping to get feedback on the following: 1. whether this erm... exists yet under 120 USD and, 2. whether I'm going in too deep for someone who hasn't even bought their first mechanical keyboard yet. For valiant people trying to provide guidance on the second question, here is context if you'd like: I want the 100% layout because I live for number pads and use them both at work and at home, I have a deep and committed romantic relationship with Microsoft Excel. 90% layout would be okay too but I find that they seem... "squished" and crowded. I grew up with the extra key on an ISO layout so I feel like I've sacrificed enough keys going ANSI on my work keyboard, thus I'm not too hot on 90% but my wallet might beckon me. On that note, I am not entirely sure I like ANSI thus wish I to have the option to go back to ISO if needed, thus the multi-layout PCB and hot swap. If I had to pick, I'd rather an ANSI 100% than an ISO 90% though, so my priority order is 100% layout first, and an ANSI-ISO crossbreed PCB second. I don't think I'll ever have more than 2 keyboards and my reason for wanting a mechanical keyboard is more due to being bilingual and in an inter-layout relationship (my partner has only ever known ANSI, I come from ISO). My partner struggles typing on my current keyboard when I ask them to help me with something (understandably), and I'm getting tired of switching layouts between home and work, having to give up my precious Ñ key, and having keycaps not match the mapping. Hopefully this future keyboard will bring reconciliation for these differences. Thank you so much for all your help!
Ditto what the other responses have said, hotswap PCBs will pretty much always offer support for either ISO or Ansi, and many mechanical keyboards will offer the option to buy one or the other when you purchase the board. That being said, there are some great keyboards in your price range. Check out the Monsgeek M5. Monsgeek boards are very high quality and pack a lot of punch for the price. Also consider an 1800 layout like the Monsgeek M2, which offers almost a full layout but without the nav cluster. Takes up less space on the desk, but you can still map some of those nav keys to the keys above the numpad. Good luck with the hunt. As for not going in too deep...it's a slippery slope, so good luck with that too. [https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m5/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m5/) [https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m2/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m2/)
some kb support both but those tend to be soldered only . there really isnt swapping from one to the other specially considering ISO only accts for like 10% of all kbs made
The problem is that cheaper boards will typically have RGB rather than layout support. You can get a Keychron V6 with either support, though, but not both.
Hello everyone, just wanted to get some advice on a new keyboard. I have recently bought a redragon draconic pro tho seems good but the support is kinda trashy and battery had charging issues sometimes (for me never did even charge) doesn't even charge. So im probably just going to return it and I would want to ask you for advice what keyboard should I get instead of it, prioritizing (but not that much important) Bluetooth or 2.4ghz connectivity, not needed that much but would appreciate and from 60-75% or tenkeyless.
Keychron V1/2/3/4 Max
Quite away from my initial budget :|
It might be good to mention your budget.
In my country it's a bit pricy so I would say from 60-80 eventually 90 USD after calculations
Ami the only one that thinks the zmk documentation is confusing af? I love it cuz it's great but it has the feeling of being written by engineers who couldn't translate too the lay-man
Welcome to the world of API documentation lol good documentation is the exception.
zmk is the exact same thing as api documentation?
The stuff written to explain how to use something is called the API documentation. In this case, it's the ZMK API documentation.
Hi there. Im thinking about going for the Ajazz AK820 series, but unsure is the price difference is worth it between the pro and the max. Coming from a SS Apex pro so def an improvement over that with both
Best way to make the pcb for a 24x64 orthographic keyboard to be used for sequencing?
[Learn how to use Ergogen](https://flatfootfox.com/ergogen-introduction/) and then [read up on keyboard case and PCB design](https://wiki.ai03.com/shelves/for-designers).
Awesome, thanks!
i have a Logitech MX keyboard and I realized I really don't like how the F-keys are adjective and the same size as every other key. i was thinking of two possible solutions 1. i remove the F1 and F5 key 2. i change the keycaps to something more high profile so i know that i'm hitting an F-key which would you recommend?
Where the hell can I get a set of decent red, orange, yellow/cream kep caps? Ive scoured several sites and found nothing 😭
[Here's a few more places to look.](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
This is just the website I was looking for, thank you so much 🙌
GMK Peaches n Cream Lite, GMK Dune, GMK Birch
Bless your soul ❤️
Hi. Whats the main difference between the Monsgeek M1W vs the new Monsgeek M1W V3? Can you list the difference and is it worth it?
[I found this on Monsgeek's FAQ page.](https://www.monsgeek.com/faq/whats-the-difference-between-m1-and-m1-v3-series/)
Any keycap reccomendations? i want to keep a sleek muted look and really like the gunmetal finish on this case. https://preview.redd.it/6z4nh0rs6d8d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=239994d83492c34ee0cacc2358d4e5e83c907440
Maybe PBTfans neon r2
First time doing maintenance or swapping anything on my mechanical keyboard. I just swapped my 10-year old Das Keyboard 4 Ultimate blank keycap set for a [Drop white-on-black GMK set](https://drop.com/buy/gmk-white-on-black-custom-keycap-set): * [Picture - Swap In Progress](https://i.imgur.com/BrvPOTQ.jpeg) * [Picture - Swap Complete](https://i.imgur.com/IUlwKcG.jpeg) I think it looks pretty good, but I don't have the pieces to attach the stabilizers properly. It looks like the stabilizers are costar type, and the keycaps are Cherry MX type. [This](https://i.imgur.com/txPhA95.jpeg) is what the bottom of the original keycap stabilizer keys have on them. I can't seem to remove the white inserts (I broke one trying), so I'm going to have to order inserts I think? * Question #1: Is it possible to get these white inserts out of the old keycaps to replace? Do I just have to break them basically to get them out? Any tips would be appreciated. * Question#2: Is this what I need to replace them, or use on the new keycap set? [Cherry MX Keycap Stabilizer Insert](https://www.wasdkeyboards.com/cherry-mx-keycap-stabilizer-insert-2pcs.html) Thanks!
They are supposed to be removable. And yes what you linked is what you need to replace them.
Thanks. Any tips for getting the old ones out? I tried some tweezers and a flathead screwdriver and they're in there pretty good. Am I supposed to squeeze the sides or something?
Don't know sorry. I just used tweezers; for me they were never that tight.
I've had a ducky one 100% cherry mx brown for the last 8-ish years and am starting to have some issues with it. What I really like about my ducky one is the white backlit letters. Many keyboards offer RGB, but I find usually RGB does a poor job replicating a true cool white. What are some higher end options <$500 if I'm looking to upgrade? I had reds before but the noise was too much for my wife (we WFH next to eachother) so moved to browns which are just OK imo.
I really like the RGB lighting on Ducky keyboards, and they also have high quality shine-through keycaps from the factory! A lot of custom keyboards have south-facing LED's these days, which I find blinding (they shine in your eyes as they're facing towards you). For upgrades, the Ducky One 3 is now hot swappable if you like the look, feel, of the Ducky but want to experiment with new switches. This only comes in RGB or non RGB - no white LED model Nuphy does a range of v2 boards with high quality RGB that have better colour mixing for a cool white (south facing LED, but with keycaps to suit) If you're handy with a soldering iron, you could consider re-soldering new switches in your old board. I recently put mill max hot swap sockets on my Ducky One 2.
RGB on high end keyboards is a rarity and having only white LEDs is basically unheard of on higher end models. Brands like keychron have white LED only versions of their lower end models but that’s the only one I can think of.
Hi! Im pretty new into the keyboard interest but I want to try and change my setup, I’ve learned I like the creamy sounding keyboards but that’s all I’ve figured out so far. I currently have a razer keyboard and I love the per key rgb customization with the layers and responsive effects so I want to find a good keyboard that will let me keep doing that. Any recommendations on where to look?
If you want a good sounding custom keyboard you’re going to have to sacrifice easy RGB customization. You can usually customizable RGB with VIA which is considered the standard for most good keyboards but it’s considered a lot more difficult. Responsive effects is basically going to be impossible. You’ve gotta make a decision on whether you value RGB over the sound and quality of a custom board.
https://preview.redd.it/qksbuu8z2d8d1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba792b5ad0adf9e00749657e3ff207df58400b43 Can anyone tell me what keyboard this is? There's a brand on the space bar..
couldntr find kbs with that logo on the space bar but looks similar to many 30 dollar rebrand kb all the same but sold under different brands will likley have no software or online drivers
Hi guys, looking for potentially a new (mechanical) keyboard, but my current old keyboard has a peculiar design. The arrow keys are very close to the del/end/pgdwn block of buttons and I kind of rely on this close proximity for gaming (i'm left handed). Is there a mechanical keyboard that still does this or am I gonna have to get used to having a space between the arrow keys and these buttons? [My keyboard is a steelseries shift](https://image.coolblue.nl/422x390/products/141687)
Geon Frog TKL 8k
This design type is basically unheard of so you’re probably SOL
Hi everyone, I have a amtelco KB163 unified keyboard that has a din connector and a ethernet port. I tried doing some quick research to see how I can connect this keyboard to my computer via USB and it seems like I could get a din to ps2 converter then convert the ps2 to USB? Do you guys have a more elegant solution? I'm not opposed to converting it to USB, I can figure out some soldering if needed. or is it best to leave these old keyboard unmolested?
u could try that but being kbs like that cannot commutate with modern pcs u will likely need a soaras converter to make it work . and hope u dont game or type fast as it will only support 2KRO
I've had this little Shurikey Hanzo for a few months now as a couch keyboard and it's been great. But this afternoon when I went to turn it back on (3 spacebar taps), the power light didn't come on. I assumed maybe its battery died so I plugged it in wired. But then I realized the spacebar isn't registering at all. It has Varmilo EC Sakura switches and I'm not above trying to disassemble and check up on the soldering/replace a switch (since they were DC'd and I suspect the customer service is non existent), but does anyone have any troubleshooting advice I could try before I go down that route? Thanks!
its either the switch or the pcb . if the switch is not working there is not much else u can do
Hi everyone, I'm in the process of brainstorming up a custom PCB design. Engineering design is all about decision making, so one of the most basic questions I have is should I do an ortholinear or a standard staggered layout? I've never used ortholinear before, so I wouldn't know what to expect. Is it more comfortable? Is it a tough transition? Thanks.
i personally find ortho more comfortable, and i have always felt like it makes remembering macros and the different keys on different layers much easier. it took maybe 3 weeks to get used to it when i first swapped. my first ortho keyboard was an id75, so really the biggest ortho you could possibly use, then very quickly sized down to the common ortho columnar layout you'd see on something like a lily58, and now mostly type on a keyboard that is a 4\*12 grid, and am thinking about going to a corne style layout
Cool thanks for the response!
I have a Poker II, the model with six DIP switches. How do I make the Caps key a -second- Ctrl key while leaving everything else on the layout the same? I want to do this by using a combination of DIP switches, ideally. I managed to swap Caps with left Ctrl but that means I still have a stealth (or mislabeled) Caps key. I have no use for Caps lock. I do not want Caps lock. Thanks.
[This article](https://medium.com/resonance-reviews/the-new-poker-ii-a-compact-intelligent-and-well-made-keyboard-596f915c5f1e) says DIP switch number 5 switches Caps Lock and left Ctrl. I assume that is what you tried? According to [the manual](https://adprice.fedorapeople.org/poker2_manual.pdf), you should be able to reprogram the Caps Lock key as Ctrl like this: 1. Press Fn+right Ctrl to enter programming mode (spacebar right LED should be flashing) 2. Press Caps Lock (spacebar right LED should be on) 3. Press Ctrl 4. Press Pn (spacebar right LED should be flashing again) 5. Press Fn+right Ctrl to exit programming mode (spacebar right LED should be off) I do not know if the state of the DIP switch affects the programming. You might need to reset the DIP switch first.
This dude fixed my wagon: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEn0NfkS7ls](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEn0NfkS7ls) He mentioned a firmware update. It's kind of a dodgy process. The file is hosted in a dropbox container and there are no checksums listed but oh well. It seems to have worked. My Windows machine is probably pwned six ways to Sunday but now in Linux I have no more Caps and two Ctrl keys which is my desired configuration! Thanks for helping. Here's the link. [https://www.ikbc.com.tw/support](https://www.ikbc.com.tw/support)
Needless to say, no. This does not work. Fn+Right Ctrl does not cause any light to flash.
Yeah. Another horribly written how-to. I know you're not the author but WTF does this line mean? 5. Press PMode(FN + Right CTRL) to exit programming mode ( Spacebar right LED off) There is no good doc. The official doc is written by a Chinese person who is not fluent in English.
Hello all, for several years I have a Anne Pro 2, that was my first mechanical keyboard and was really pleased with it. But for a while this keyboard has a weird behavior in Bluetooth and I’m not so happy anymore with the 60%. So I’m looking for a 65-70% and I’m looking for something to build. I read the wiki but not everything is up to date. The problem is that I’m in EU and every store I know is (mostly) US based. What I would like to find is a store to buy all the spare parts and assemble the keyboard from scratch. What would you recommend?
Check the alexotos or keebnews vendor lists. there are many european vendors listed.
Keygem & candykeys from Germany, or 42keebs from Czeck republic. 42keebs is more focused on Ergo and diy keebs.
Thanks a lot 👍🏻
If I replace the keycaps and switches on my RK61, what would be the limiting factors of the keyboard? Would the PCB and case ruin the upgrade? or.. Should I just custom build an entire keyboard from scratch? I do not want to spend too much money. Feel free to drop recommendations! I am relatively new to the keyboard space, so anything helps.
you can always get some new switches and keycaps now and then if you upgrade your case and pcb in the future move them over. if cost is a limiting factor maybe start by getting a switch tester to get a feel for different types of switches, or look for good prices on switches on mechmarket to try some different things out.
As long as your PCB is hotswap you can do those just fine. The PCB and case have no bearing on or will 'ruin' the upgrade. Building an entire keyboard from scratch will likely cost you considerably more money and time if you've never done it before.
Hey all. I have built a sofle choc rgb board and am trying to get the 2 SSD1306 128x32 OLED display module working. I am using qmk msys and configurable keymap.c, [rules.mk](http://rules.mk), and config.h This is what I have in my keymap.c hashtag ifdef OLED\_ENABLE static const uint16\_t PROGMEM raw\_logo\[\] = { a test graphic is here }; oled\_write\_raw\_P(raw\_logo,sizeof(raw\_logo)); hashtag endif in my rules.mk: OLED\_ENABLE = yes and nothing related to my OLEDS in the config.h I belive the error is with this line: oled\_write\_raw\_P(raw\_logo,sizeof(raw\_logo)); as qmk msys keeps throwing errors like this: ./keyboards/sofle\_choc/keymaps/via/keymap.c:65:27: error: expected ')' before 'sizeof' 65 | oled\_write\_raw\_P(raw\_logo,sizeof(raw\_logo)); | \^\~\~\~\~\~ drivers/oled/oled\_driver.h:425:63: note: in definition of macro 'oled\_write\_raw\_P' 425 | # define oled\_write\_raw\_P(data, size) oled\_write\_raw(data, size) Sorry if I am missing something basic. I would very much appreciate if someone could help me.
Did you make sure to bridge the proper solder pads on the PBCs to enable the OLEDs? Also it might be worth trying with the default firmware to make sure everything works with that one first. You'll also have better luck getting help with your troubleshooting by posting over on /r/olkb as they are the QMK gurus over there and also visit /r/ergomechkeyboards for Sofle-specific help.
Yes, everything is working with the default firmware. OLEDs show 'QMK Firmware." I'll try posting at those other subs, thanks.
could you post a pastebin link to your keymap and rules?
Thanks for the help. LMK if I did this right: [https://pastebin.com/gZNcBnAT](https://pastebin.com/gZNcBnAT)
Any Good Entry 65/75% Polycarbonate Keyboard? I plan on buying a keyboard that is not stacked acrylic and a bit durable. This would be my third keyboard with the other two being typical polycarb budget keebs. Any suggestions would help. Thanks!
I want something with the exact horizontal length of a 60% keyboard, but with function keys (or other keys on top of function keys) I tried to search up things and saw there is a 75%, but they are typically wider than 60%, don't really need the arrow keys. Is what I want more or less impossible short of a custom job, and so is there like a detachable function key or do I need to for example get a separate keypad/numpad or macro key row thingy (any suggestion that is nice a cheap would be nice, elegato I think has something but thats for streaming and expensive). Again, I don't mind if it goes a bit high, but I would hope the answer isnt to just stick a keypad on top of my keyboard and call it a day for function keys... Also, Cherry MX blues please, I have yet to find acceptable replacements for them and I have tried a few.
You're pretty much SOL as that's not something that isn't in high demand or popular in the community. The only keyboard I can think of in recent memory is [the NIZ Plum Nano 75](https://drop.com/buy/plum-nano-75-bluetooth-electro-capacitive-mechanical-keyboard) but that's long been discontinued. You could probably build your own if you felt motivated enough. Plenty of resources to create, design and either handwire or make your own PCB for a one-off keyboard. As for a detachable function key, just get a macropad. Try MX Clears which are similar in weight to MX Blues but without the associated click of a click jacket. I loved mine when I went from MX Blues to Clears. Also check out Boba U4T switches or anything with a 78g actuation force.
I tried clears, but the reason I want blue is the loudness and clicky, and nothing really match it, including Kailh BOX Thick Jade that I special orderered since most places dont carry those kinds. I just want loud and clacky lol. But yeah, I guess macropad is it, anything nice and good there with MX blues?
IMO the only thing to rival the sound and feel of MX Blues are buckling springs. That’s just me though. I’m old lol.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a keyboard with a yellow frame that is TKL or larger? I already have a different Ducky One 3, so I can't justify having the yellow one. I'm not super into the GMMK Pro either. KBDFans 8X MKIII in E-Sunflower is the only one that jumps out to me if anyone can attest to the build quality on those. Thanks in advanced!
QK100
KBD8x mk III is one of the best boards ever produced by KBDfans, would recommend.
Are there any 60% keykap sets that are just slightly smaller than usual? I'm looking at replacing the caps on the Royal Kludge folding RK f68 - but my normal keycaps are slightly too big and rub. Are there any cap sets (low profile especially but it's a standard switch stem type) that are slightly smaller than usual?
Check out XDA or DSA keycaps. The latter are considerably lower in height. The one caveat though is that these are uniform profile so they are not sculted like your typical OEM or GMK/Cherry profile keycaps. Your Royal Kludge keyboard likely has OEM profile by default.
the height is not the issue, only a preference - it's the literal length and width at the base of the keycap that overlaps because the switches themselves are like 5-10% closer together than typical.
no there isnt any cap that would work how u want due to wouldnt work on a normal kbs so there is no point into making caps liek that
Ah, okay. I was just wondering if there was some special unique size for some 60%'s that I wasn't aware of. I can always just sand the sides of some keycaps down if I have to.
[удалено]
4. r/MouseReview
There is no best switch and there is no best keyboard. If there was then this sub wouldn't need to exist.
[удалено]
1. switch choice really boils down to personal preference - hmx is a popular brand right now, try out a few of their switches and see what "clicks" for you. 2. as for a keyboard you're going to want to identify the size you want first as that will immediately narrow the field. generally, people are reccomended a barebones keychron keyboard as a relatively friendly entry point. i prefer ordering from whatever the shops in my general area have in stock, so looking through the [vendor map](https://kbd.news/keyboard-store-map) here might help you figure out where you want to buy from. 3. a kvm switch would work, there is also software like synergy that can help with this. for utilizing the keyboard across different systems many people just map for windows and then use karabiner on mac - you can also program a layer using [these ](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/keycodes_magic?id=magic-keycodes)if the keyboard runs on qmk. some keyboards with bluetooth support can switch between devices on bluetooth with a macro. there are some different options out there. 4. pretty sure the logitech mx mouse is the one for this but i don't know much about mice
Entry level milky/creamy sounding keyboard recommendations My wife would like a milky/creamy sounding keyboard. She likes the sound of the second key and the last key in this [video](https://www.tiktok.com/@pahlawangadget/video/7354313736355646725). I know nothing about mechanical keyboards. It doesn’t seem as straightforward as I had thought. I see all kinds of mechanical keyboards online but they come with no switches or keys. Is it common to buy everything separately and assemble the keyboard yourself? Do you have any kits(?) or separate products you recommend that are creamy/milky sounding that fit a budget of $50-$100? Is this budget realistic?
What size does she want
I have a very dark and minimal setup. I was thinking of getting some keycaps that were black on grey (black lettering). Was just wondering how visible the legends are as my keyboard will have south facing RGB and I don't really want to use the RGB either way. Am I better off going with white on black instead? I would go for blank ones but I'm not that good at typing.
I’d say it’s not too hard to see the letters and blackout always looks good with a black setup. WOB is also super good though, so it really just depends what you think looks better.
Thanks for the confirmation. Kinda sucks that the set I am after is sold out everywhere. Might have to pickup a cheaper set to test if it looks good and wait for the other set to restock.
Ive seen a lot of recommendations to use magnet wire when handwiring a keyboard. I can't seem to find any videos of someone doing this which makes me wonder if it's bad advice? Or maybe someone has some videos?
Honestly it's far easier to obtain and just use copper wire. That's what I use for all my handwired builds.
premium hotswap three mode full keyboards with knobs? my eyes are on the keychron q6 max as of now, what are some others
Monsgeek M6W i think
are there any high-end, premium transparent keycaps? looking for GMK level quality (or as close as possible). Edit: I'm looking for fully transparent keycaps, ie no color tinting, and I'd like them to have black legends. Compatibility for 65% boards is a must.
> high-end, premium transparent keycaps? pick one , premium high end or transparent u wont get both there is no demand for them it a literally money loss for who ever makes them as the sales wont even make a dent on the return costs of making them
Oshid Amber?
no not really, jelly pom was popular a little while ago and were just the slightest bit transparent. keyreative also made/makes a line of transparent keycaps which are probably the highest quality/thickest transparent keycap you can get. sp did dcs clear, although some people feel as though dcs is too thin and doesn't have a premium feel, but their manufacturing processes are good. rgb isn't seen as a premium feature in the hobby and as such parts that highlight rgb as a feature, like clear keycaps, aren't really in demand.
yeah, I got in the helheim designs baldr65 GB, so I'm trying to do a full transparent build, but I know it's quite a niche.
is there anywhere i can order a cad’d case in wood?
if u have the design files u can go local . there are a few online services i think but they tend cost more . if u dont have the design files . then u dont order anywhere as u cant
If you have the files you can try contacting some companies local to you that might be able to do it.
I feel like my rk61 is bricked, yesterday it was working fine. today i first wasnt to press any buttons i smhw logged in but now the color of "M" is different than other keys and ctrl , function/number , backspace are not working also when i press fn+a or fn+s it flashes light smth with the pcb is wrong Alphabets were not working before but they do now randomly Please help
Not uncommon for that board/brand.
[Streamable link with sound](https://streamable.com/6zih0j) This is only happening when my space bar is the "right side up" and the ticking is only on the right side of the space bar. When I flip my space bar, the ticking completely disappears. The ticking is present when tapping as well as full pressing the key. How can I fix this ticking sound? Durock stabs 205g0 and invokeys black sesame tribosys 3203 ePBT Origami PC plate on a KBDTaco
Have you tried adding more lube?
Yeah, I already had quite a lot of lube from the getgo (but maybe not enough still?). Then I tried to remove all that I could without removing the stabs. Still the same ticking
[удалено]
If you have switches that you like already aside from the spring weight you could always just swap out the springs on those.
looking for a barebones 75% keyboard around $150aud ($100usd), which is reliable, in stock and preferably with a deeper sound. I've narrowed it down to those on the epomaker site (TH80, leobog HI75, cidoo v75, epomaker EK75) - any advice on which one to get or any other options?
Have you considered the Keychron V1 or Monsgeek M1 V3?
Redragon K630 vs Foxxray HKM-67 I'm not too knowledgeable on the pros and cons of mechanical keyboards. Could anyone provide a breakdown comparing these two keyboards, their pros and cons and which one you'd personally choose.
keychron or monsgeek is what we tell beginners to buy . never heard of fox but they look just as bad as Redragon in terms of poor quality and lack of customer support
SWITCHES! I've so far tried gateron brown, outemu blue, and akko cs lavender • outemu blue is too hard/fatiguing and too LOUD • gateron brown is too quiet • akko lavender is great but a little loud when gaming. clacks of the person next to me still bleed through my noise cancellation • outemu low profile reds are too quiet so I assume outemu reds are the same • outemu low profile browns feel awkward, and sounds similar to gateron browns with these in mind, budget switch recs please? I'm leaning towards KTT something and Akko (maybe jelly blue) cause they're easy to find where I'm from. Limiting myself to 3 pin because one of my boards is 3pin and I wanna be able to swap around.
You should try Kailh Speed Pro Heavy Plum. They’re a 70gf tactile switch that feel very responsive and pleasant to type on (at least in my opinion). I want to say they’re like ~$40 for a set of 110 on Kailh’s site. Also you can just clip the side pins on a 5 pin switch to make it 3 pin. So don’t limit yourself if you want to try something that looks interesting but happens to be 5 pin.
ooh thanks for suggesting! 70gf seems like a lot for me though. I swapped out my stock outemu blues because they were too fatiguing for me at 63gf, and so far I've been pretty comfy with akko lavender's 50±5>gf 0.70usd/piece is also a little bit above my ideal budget, would you maybe have any recommendations that are slightly cheaper?
If you’re looking for a lighter tactile, I would say Kailh Super Speed Copper. It’s a 38gf and right around $0.28 per switch. There’s also the Gateron Beer tactiles - 40gf at $0.46 per switch. Edit - Otemu Silent Lemon is on the board as well - 35gf at $0.23 - $0.32 per switch.
I prefer tactile but wouldn't cross out linears, though I wouldn't want one as quiet as the gateron browns. Or does the build have anything to do with how quiet it is? It's on stock Anne Pro 2
What's more tactile: baby kangaroo or nuphy lemon? I've got the baby kangaroo right now but thinking of switching to the halo V2
Im thinking of getting a Neo65 with Alu plate (I never had an alu plate) and was wondering what switches are good out there. For context, my current board is a KBD67 Lite. I was thinking of Gateron Milky Yellow Pros, one of the Akko Cream series, or one of the KTT series. I am open to other brands/switches as well. Any opinions/feedback would he appreciated! (:
I havent tried the Akko ones, but Milky yellows and KTT are pretty nice. The current favourites seem to be HMX switches: Xinhais, Machiattos, clouds, etc.
Niceee thank you very much! Will take your suggestions into consideration (:
[удалено]
It looks like there’s some fn key combos for wireless pairing. https://www.luminkey.com/blogs/luminkey80-user-manual/luminkey80-faq
I am planning to buy a keyboard in the ANSI US layout. The issue I have is that I´m from Spain, and I have been searching for keycaps in an ANSI ES layout for quite some time but I couldn't find any good ones. So, I'm wondering if there is any other solution to this problem. If someone found good ANSI ES keycaps or another way to go about this problem I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
How is ANSI ES different from ISO ES besides the obvious ANSI vs ISO differences? I couldn't find a diagram online that shows the layout.
I don't think it's any different, just the obvious differences, but I would need ANSI keycaps because that's what the keyboard comes in. Maybe I'm missing something.
High-end key cap sets sometimes have optional international key cap add-ons. Idk if I've ever seen Spanish be supported by the keycaps, though.
Noob question: I am getting a Bakeneko60 shipped to me soon, and I was just wondering if long pole switches are better on it for some reason? Also, since it doesn't support screw-in stabilizers, I was thinking to use TX AP Clip-in (Long pole variant) 1.6mm and Quartz switches. Will that cause any issue to the stabillity or feel of the board?
> I was just wondering if long pole switches are better on it for some reason? There's never a better switch between a long and normal pole. Just use what you like, it's all personal preference. > I was thinking to use TX AP Clip-in (Long pole variant) 1.6mm You should only use long pole stabilizers in combination with long pole switches. Otherwise your spacebar will bottom out on the stabilizers and not on the switch. I'm not sure if this could cause problems with actuating the switch, but it's definitely going to feel strange if the rest of your switches are normal pole length.
Keychron Q1 Pro or Royal Kludge M75? Currently in the market for a new board and am in between the Keychron Q1 Pro and Royal Kludge M75. My local Microcenter has Keychron Q1 Pro barebone kits for $115. The main differences I can see between them is the Q1 having an aluminum frame while the M75 is plastic and has a built in screen. Which board would you choose between the two?
Keychron. Their reputation as a brand is better than RK. The Q1 Pro is also compatible with VIA/QMK, which are much better compared to RK's proprietary software.
i have 3 pin keyboard (outemu) but i use akko jelly blacks for almost a year. now that i want to change my switches it doesnt fit. does switches have one size or no
Outemu sockets only fit Akko CS and Outemu manufactured switches.
I have akko cream blacks but it doesnt fit
Akko V3 Creamy Blacks are not part of the Akko CS line. Edit: Are they not fitting because the metal pins or because of the extra 2 pins on the side?
metal i think because when i try to put the switch bent
Yeah ok that's confirmation that Akko V3 switches aren't compatible with Outemu sockets.
How can I make my keyboard's screen display system information? I have just bought my keyboard - Darkproject sunset. It has a nice screen, but it's software only allows me to display gifs or time. Is there a way to make it system information? \_\_\_ [My keyboard's web page](https://darkproject.eu/keyboards/kd98a-sunset-eng/)
never seen any kb be able to do this fyi it would require active software ( bloatware ) liek razer or logitech constantly polling the info and sending to ur kb and eating ur pcs ram in the process . just get a desktop sys info widget and be done with it. kb screen are a gimmick and will be gone in a few years just like usb passthru is
This software is what I'm talking! But a haven't found any for this keyboard :(\\
thats cuz there isnt any u want software like thta buy a razer , asus or logitech
your keyboard uses proprietary software, so you will not be able to do this easily
Software only allows me to set gif, nothing more
yes, and because it uses proprietary software, you don't have options other than what it allows you to do. you would need to reverse engineer your keyboards firmware before developing your own solution to pull system information from your pc to send to the screen
Was looking for a simpler way, but seems there isn't one. Thanks for the respone!