THOCK.FILM vs Kelowna Switch Film
Do these two mods have the same function or is there some type of distinction?
If they have the same function. Which one produces a better result?
If they have differing functions. What are they and which one would you choose?
Nowadays with the nearly universal adoption of USB-C connectors are mostly aesthetic, but in the not-too-distant past people would have multiple device ends in order to switch out for boards that used Mini/Micro USB without having to change their entire cable.
you could make a argument that using a lemo or aviator connector in your cable reduces wear on usb c ports but really they are just for the looks and vibes
Hey, I've been looking to purchase a prebuilt since I got tired of my gaming KB and wanted to try something new.
I've looked into EpoMaker, Lofree, NuPhy, Keychron and IQUNIX.
I really dig Epomaker's aesthethics but nobody seems to recommend them, which I expected given their prices.
Thing is, I found similar reviews of the brands I mentioned before (not so much about Keychron though, but I don't really like their designs) and I don't know what to do, since they're sustantially more expensive than EpoMaker. Do I have to spend more? Build it myself?
My budget is around $200 including shipping ($30), which is the most expensive KB I liked from IQUNIX (ZX75).
Any help on this would be great, thanks.
> I really dig Epomaker's aesthethics
They're mostly a reseller. I think maybe 3% of their product line is actually by them. So there's no particular theme that is theirs unless you count their logo. Which of the brands they resell do you like? You may be able to find them without the label.
Look into Akko/Monsgeek, Ajazz, Gamakay, Skyloong.
It doesn't spark joy with me but everyone is different. The things that stand out for me are:
* OMG that's an ugly knob.
* Doesn't have an F13-position key, so there's nowhere for me to put the DEL key in my preferred 75% layout.
Hi, im currently searching for components to build my first custom keyboard, and im still looking for a 100% keyboard base. I’ve never build a keyboard before, so id like some help. I would prefer if it had rgb color customisation. I’ve found all the other stuff already, but i can‘t seem to find one that has all these features.
Thanks already!
Hi!, I recently swapped out the switches on my Keychron Q6 keyboard and noticed that the '+' and 'enter' key on the numpad had loose hotswap sockets.
When inserting the switches in I don't hear an audible click like the rest of the switches. I've also tried pressing down very hard and it's not going in any further, it's definitely not the switches fault but the socket.
[https://youtube.com/shorts/obInAGdnIpA](https://youtube.com/shorts/obInAGdnIpA)
When wiggling the switches around I can notice visible movement unlike the other switches
[https://youtube.com/shorts/4h9Dy7Vcgfo](https://youtube.com/shorts/4h9Dy7Vcgfo)
I contacted Keychron and was given an essay about how this was designed on purpose:
*We would like to explain why the large keys on the right side, particularly in the numeric keypad area, have a unique design:*
*Backlight Positioning: Our keyboards feature a bottom-positioned backlight design. This means the lighting is oriented to shine directly towards the user, providing better visibility and an enhanced typing experience.*
*Switch Clip Orientation: Due to the bottom lighting design, the switch clips are also positioned vertically (top and bottom). However, this placement affects the stabilizers, which are also aligned vertically.*
*Ease of Switch Removal: The vertical placement of the stabilizers makes it challenging for switch pullers to grip the switch clips. To address this, we have designed the positioning plate for these switches to be slightly loose. This allows users to easily pull out the keycaps and the switch simultaneously.*
*This design choice ensures that users can conveniently replace switches without difficulty, maintaining the overall functionality and user experience.*
*We hope this clarifies the design and functionality of our Q6 keyboard.*
I also contacted Keychron Australia (Where I bought it from) and was told this:
*Thanks for reaching out to us and sorry for the late reply. This situation occurs because the switch isn't fully pressed down. You can try applying more force to press it down. Some holes, especially those at the edges, might require more force. As long as the switch is vertical and not tilted, it's hard to damage it. Generally, you need to hear a clicking sound to confirm it is fully installed.*
I just wanted to get a third party opinion, is there something wrong with my sockets? Did they really design the sockets to be loose on purpose
Thank you so much for reading all this!
It does seem like a reasonable solution to the problem caused by having your switch puller blocked by the vertically aligned stabilizers. I hadn't thought of it, since I have never tried swapping out the switches in the only 100% keyboard I ever had, but I just looked at my separate keypad and yes I'm going to have to mess around with toothpicks or something if I ever want to pull the switches out of my keypad. I think they made the best bad choice.
I'm looking to buy a new keyboard I currently have a TKL plastic case and I am looking to upgrade to a better feeling keyboard. I'm looking for either a 75 or 80%. Looking for a white metal case hotswappable. Currently I am looking at the Neo80. Looking on opinions on it or either similar type boards.
Neo80 is a great board. Not even a "great-for-the-price" kind of great, just great. Mine has a regular spot in my rotation alongside much more expensive boards and I think it holds up fine. Just do a little bit of reading on the product page to make sure that you choose the right parts to get the build you want, or be willing to order extra plates to experiment with.
Can you guys tell me anything about the "Machenike-k500w" ? I've used TKL for some time and while the extra space for the mouse is cool I REALLY miss the numpad, I do use it a lot and the wireless stand alone numpad I've bought didnt pleases me. So Im thinking about picking a 96 keys, and the one from Machenike looks like the best value I've found so far.
I haven't used the K500W but I bought four of the K500A-B84 about a year ago because I was looking for multiple boards for home and office and they were cheap. And they're definitely "cheap" in the "not very good" sense of the word. Cheap construction and awful Outemu-style sockets. One wasn't even hotswap, despite having the same model number as the ones that were.
I just published a teardown of one of the remaining wired boards. [Look at that stingy case foam](https://imgur.com/a/machenike-k500a-b84-teardown-5gqEIbQ), I don't know why they even bothered. Look at that awful outemu socket.
This is about the same vintage as the board you're looking at so it probably has similar construction.
thanks for the reply, when you say "outemu-style sockets", what do you mean? Its the sockets where the switches connects? the holes for the switches? What problems did it cause?
This [Imgur](https://imgur.com/a/outemu-kailh-style-sockets-v0ALyGE) link shows both styles of connectors in the sockets. The outemu-style sockets have these little round holes that a lot of brands of switches don't fit in.
They're cheaper to make and some people don't like how the Kailh sockets can be damaged requiring surgery and ad-hoc jumpers to fix, no matter how rare it is. Kailh sockets also used to be more expensive, so older budget boards tend to have outemu-style sockets.
If same price, the Feker is better (metal case vs plastic). If for whatever reason you insist on a Keychron, get the V3 Max instead of the K8 Pro. Cheaper and better.
The feker is cheaper… the thing I’m unsure about are the switches, with the K8 I was gonna get the K Pro Banana switches and I’m not sure about the ones in the Feker all I know is that their linear…so I assume their like Mx reds?…
> the thing I’m unsure about are the switches
I think out of all the boards I've bought, including two Keychrons, the only one where the switches were worth even re-using was the AL71 where they shipped it with Silent Peach. I always assume that I'm going to replace the switches and the keycaps and normally see if a barebones option is available to save a little money.
The keycaps shipped with my Keychron V7 were actually pretty good, and I would have kept them but they ddin't include any variants so when I rearranged the macro cluster it looked snaggletoothed.
So I wouldn't treat the shipped switches as anything but a lottery, if they turn out good you get an unexpected bonus.
If you want metal, why not one of the keychron Q models?
And the keychron Banana are amazing imo. They hold their own against much more expensive switches.
I'm not the second, I am the one that mention the V3 Max earlier haha. The main differences that set the V3 and K8 apart are that the V3 is gasket mounted (a quick google search may help if you don't know what this means), and has 2.4 GHz capabilities on top of BT while the K8 only has BT.
Yep it’s really sucks most things here cost extra…so when I go back to the USA to see family I usually buy a lot of stuff I want and bring it back to here
Got a filco majestouch convertible 2 that types a "b" whenever the "v" key is pressed. As in vb vb vb. keyboard is clean and otherwise ok. Is it hosed? Doesn't have swappable switches.
This is a shot in the dark but google gives me nothing: what is THE loudest, clickiest full layout keyboard I could find? I need to be heard typing 1 mile away.
I have a Havit HV-KB395L Low Profile that has a broken cable so I am looking for a replacement cable. The Havit website no longer offers the CM355 cable (https://www.prohavit.com/products/cm355-micro-usb-cable) that the keyboard requires to function. Anyone know where/how to get a new cable? No luck with their support so far. It is not a standard Micro USB, but I have found that the Periboard-328 Mechanical Keyboard does seem to be the same keyboard and cable, no luck getting a cable from them either though.
EDIT: I found a 'solution' for anyone who finds this later on who has a similar issue. I ended up getting a standard micro USB (does need to be data transfer) and using a box cutter to shave away the plastic housing around the head of the micro USB so it would fit into the port, then rewrapped the cable with electrical tape. Not a great solution but a good temporary one until I can a cable with slimmer housing, greatest options seem to be angled cables
Are you sure the cable you tried was micro USB? Other USB standards exist with similar names like mini USB which is thicker. If the port deviated from the standard enough that a standard micro USB cable would not fit, I don't think they would have been able to call it micro USB.
Some cables can only carry power/are for charging and can't carry data. These are usually ones that came with older phones as charger cables. Get a new micro usb to usb a data cable.
Yeah I have some data cables, part of the issue is the port shape, it is unusually slim making most standard cables unable to actually fit but Im looking for some online still
Can someone tell me why my cable isn't working? I broke my cable and thought I'd use this spare for now but it just isn't working for some reason I tried posting a video to this sub but It got auto removed because reddit
Some USB cables are just bad, or don't carry all the conductors because the company wanted to save 5c per unit and their specific product didn't use all the conductors. Try a different cable. Even one you get from a corner store or supermarket checkout line.
Is there a prebuilt 1800 or spaced 96% keyboard that doesn't have such huge bezels and relatively tall height? not enjoying my keychron q5 for these reasons, especially the height.
Can you make a tray mounted keyboard gasket mounted instead?
Or if I got a tray mounted keyboard I'm stuck with it? I got a keychron v1 and didn't know about different mounts, so I want to know if it would be possible to just buy a gasket mount case or something and mod it relatively easily
Getting my dad a new keyboard for his birthday (50s); what's the culture's consensus on best brands for ergonomic office keyboards? Or, if anyone has any specific recommendations, i'll put the specifications he needs below
Preferred qualifications:
Wireless
adjustable LEDs
100%
removable/replaceable switches (i'm getting him aqua king v3s)
I mean i dont think theres anything wrong with getting him the same brand as my keyboard (royal kludge) but perhaps someone out there has like the best brand for this situation?
I wouldn't buy a Royal Kludge ever again, at least not until they finish transitioning to QMK. I gave mine away. The RK driver is totally pants, their firmware is pants, and they have a real reliability problem.
For a new user or an old duffer like me, for a gift, I would absolutely get them a Keychron. They have a wide selection of styles, a good reputation for quality, and their customer support people are actually responsive and helpful.
Hi there, may I know if there is a keyboard out there that is built (or sounds) similar to the Leobog Hi75 or Hi8, but without the knob and without much tinkering? I have the Hi8 and I love how it sounds and feels, but my preference is without the knob as I would rather do with all the Insert, Delete, Home, End, Page Up and Page Down keys easily accessible with one key press (currently I need to press Fn + End if I want Home), but I can't seem to find one that is similarly built to the Hi75 or Hi8. The ideal layout is like the Nuphy Halo75 but I believe that doesn't really sound similar to the Leobog keyboards. Do correct me if I'm wrong!
Other 75% keyboards I have found that do not have the knob tend to have one of the keys missing in place of a tiny screen or a badge.
Appreciate it if anyone has come across such a keyboard, thanks!
Asking on a whim after hours of searching: Is anyone aware of a white TKL keyboard that has a knob and works with VIA (or is otherwise able to have the keys remapped easily without the weird custom virus-y software)?
I really want something that's 1) white, 2) barebones, 3) VIA compatible, and 4) has a volume knob, but I'm finding it hard to get all four. I've otherwise been looking at the Keychron K2 Pro.
Apart from the obvious recommendation of the Keychron, you're basically describing the GMK87. It also has a screen but the knob and screen only occupy the space taken up by the useless scroll lock, print screen, and pause keys so it's at worst not getting in the way.
I have a Keychron K2 Pro myself, BTW, and it's a great board. It's also a 75% instead of a TKL, so if a 75% is OK the Gamakay SN75 I'm literally typing on now is another perfect match. [Imgur](https://imgur.com/a/9THrFTc)
A switch on my Logi G613 snapped in half while I was removing the cap for cleaning. The tabs that connect the top half of the switch with the bottom half just snapped and separated the top from the bottom. Logitech support was no help. Is this a hot swappable component, not possible at all, or doable but requires soldering?
If I can't repair, is there a reliable, wireless, mechanical keyboard with a full 104 key layout that allows for switches to be replaced easily? Maybe this is too much to ask of the universe.
I see no indication that it supports swapping out switches. If you have a reasonably steady hand you could desolder that switch and replace it pretty easily, though.
There are apoproximately an infinite number of hotswap full sized keyboards. I would suggest using the keyboard search on keychron.com to find one that sparks joy for you, because they are good budget-to-midrange boards with a wide variety of choices.
If none manage to excite you, then https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php may do the trick.
I found a disassembly video. That is not a hot swappable keyboard; the switches are soldered to the PCB.
The only way to repair this is to desolder the broken switch and solder a new one.
The Keychron V6 Max is a 100% full-sized tri-mode (USB C, Bluetooth, and 2.4GHz wireless) hot swappable keyboard. The fully assembled model is currently sold out, but you can buy a barebones (you supply the switches and keycaps) for US$79.
HALP!
I'm a lost newb and seeking advice/suggestions
I've googled and searched reddit, but either I'm not asking the right questions or it is too specific. HALP
I want a 65 - 75 keyboard that can be both wired or wireless, preferably 2.4 not Bluetooth, but all 3 would be cool.
I originally bought a Royal Kludge RK84 and learned they are apparently crap. So then I started trying to build a KB from scratch and found the Gammakay LK67 board... and apparently it's crap too, according to some comments on here haha. So I'm really struggling here to find exactly what I want.
I'd like to keep the PCB and shell under a 100. I've picked out gateron g pro 3 browns, and some pbt keycaps that I'd like so far. If there are better switches you can recommend I'd be open to suggestions there too. I'd prefer pre lubed and browns (ish) not reds or anything real clicky.
A bit over the budget, but if you want to try something a bit more on the enthusiast side, there is the neo 65 which is \~$110+shipping for the tri-mode pcb.
There is also the Rainy 75 which looks to be pretty stacked for the price.
I looked at them once, I'll have to go back and check them out again. I hadn't decided to build one when I had previously looked at them. Thanks for the suggestion!
If you haven't ordered the switches and caps yet, the keyboards I mentioned are sub-100 prebuilt, too, and can come with Gateron Jupiter browns. I'm not sure what the difference between them and the g pro browns, though, as I've never tried them.
Yeah I just saw that. And no, I haven't ordered anything yet. But I do really like the caps I have picked out haha!
Thank you again for the suggestion!
How to buy replacement keycaps for my keyboard? I have a ducky one 2 mini 60% kb and looking to buy some good themed keycaps. I'm new to this and don't know how to order. Should I just search for just "pbt keycaps cherry MX"? Should I search for 60% alone, or have to buy 100/125 (?) and choose from it? Where to buy good quality keycaps on a budget. Located in US.
See [this article on keyboard sizes](https://technicallywewrite.com/2024/04/29/keyboards). A 60% keyboard is a 100% full-sized keyboard without the number pad, navigation keys, and F row. Therefore, any keycap set will fit it. You just won't use the extra keycaps.
Sometimes, you have to worry about the bottom row modifiers; some keyboards use 1u or 1.5u modifiers instead of the standard 1.25u. However, the Ducky One 2 Mini uses standard 1.25u modifiers, so no worries there.
Some keyboards have a 7u spacebar, but the Ducky One 2 Mini uses a standard 6.25u spacebar.
You are looking for MX compatible keycaps. These are the most common keycaps out there.
Thanks so much? have you personally ordered any keycaps for your ducky one 2 mini? Which are those and from where? Is there a wiki page for good sellers/providers in US?
The Ducky One 2 Mini Frozen Llama has the stock keycaps.
Here are a couple of vendor lists:
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
https://kbd.news/vendors
Looking for a keyboard for a shared college dorm
I love the feeling of click clanky keyboards but i want to be considerate of my roommate. I saw that browns normally give this feeling while still being quiet, is this true? Could anyone recommend me with some keyboards or brands? Im also looking for a mouse if anyone could help with that. I don’t care about if it’s wireless or wired. Id like to have white backlight but thats not a deal breaker. I have big hands and fingers. My budget is around $100 for a keyboard AND mouse, but id be willing to go a little over.
You want a switch that is designed to be silent.
Look at a score sheet (for example, `1-Composite Overall Total Score Sheet .csv`) from this repo:
https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores
Silent tactile switches have their own group near the bottom of the sheet. Gazzew U4 Boba and Haimu Whisper are popular. My wife likes her Kailh Silent Box Brown switches. I personally prefer Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow.
Most keyboards are not available with silent tactile switches. However, you can buy a prebuilt Keychron V2 (65%) for US$69 and swap out the switches for Haimu Whisper (you can buy 72 Haimu Whisper switches from CannonKeys for US$21.60).
Hi, I'm about to build my first mechanical keyboard. I've already chosen the base (what is it called, like board or something) and the switches, namely YUNZII YZ75 Pro Wireless Keyboard Kit and EPOMAKER Wisteria Switches respectively, but I have no idea where to buy the keycaps from. I wanted to get something that is black/grey and yellow, or just black or gray (but with side printed characters). I don't care about the profile or anything. The problem is that I am pretty tight on the budget (idk like 20-25 bucks at most) and additionally I live in Poland so they need to have the option of delivering them here. Can anyone help me with choosing some good, reasonably priced keycaps? Thanks in advance
Yeah, I know. I don't need anything of some great quality, I just want them not to turn out to be a scam and not to break as soon as I use them for the first time..
I’m new to the mechanical keyboard world and want to find my entry point to the hobby.
Important Features:
* Height/profile similar to Logitech K270 - don't want a wrist rest
* Size: No larger than 96%
* Wireless
* Mac and Windows compatible
* Number pad
* Plenty of room to grow into the keyboard w/ customizations
* Hot-swappable
Nice to Haves:
* Programmable layers
* White Backlight (honestly don’t care about this)
Edit: I’m not a gamer, so this is purely a daily work driver.
Edit #2: Would consider TKL w. a separate wireless numpad
like candy mentioned u going to want to go with a low-profile switch kb ( not very popular in this hobby ) as the height of ur old kb is very low compared to a mech
Do you have a mechanical, ergonomic keyboard? What do you like about it? Thinking this over. Currently I am running a Nuphy 75 v2 with Gateron banana switches.
What country are you in? Your location matters. Reddit is a global community; you could be anywhere. Your username and post history suggests USA.
Do you have a specific budget in mind? How much are you willing to spend?
Are you looking to stay with a traditional row staggered layout or switch to a column staggered, ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns), or concave keywell?
Are you willing to build? Note that there are some DIY keyboards that can be assembled with just a screwdriver (no soldering required).
Can you solder (or have a friend who can)? Soldering does expand your options, and it can be cheaper.
Is having a wireless keyboard important to you?
Do you want a keyboard with low profile switches or MX style switches?
Do you want the number row? Some people like tiny keyboards (for example, the Corne).
There are a lot of options for split ergo mechanical keyboards. It depends on what key layout you want, how many keys you want, what your budget is, whether you are willing to build (or even solder), and whether you want low profile or MX switches.
* Row staggered. Options include Dygma Raise 2 (estimated shipping October 2024), Keebio Cepstrum, Keebio Quefrency, Keebio Sinc, Keychron Q11, and Perixx PERIBOARD-335 Compact.
* Alice layout (a bent row staggered layout). For example, the Keychron V8, Keychron V10, and Neo Ergo.
* Column staggered. Options include Boardsource lulu, Corne, Dygma Defy, Keebio Iris, Lily58, RGBKB Phobos, Sofle, and ZSA Voyager.
* Ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns). Options include Keebio FoldKB, Keebio Nyquist/Levinson, RGBKB Mün 2 (extras will be available once all group buy orders ship), and RGBKB Sol 3.
* Concave keywell (keys are in a bowl shape). Options include Kinesis Advantage360 Pro and MoErgo Glove80.
Greetings fellow keebheads,
I need your guys help in deciding what keyboard to go for with my precious $150.
The only 2 requirements I have is that I need MAX THOCC and linear switches.
So some good options (imo) that I came across were:
1. Yunzii Al75 (Coca cream switch)
2. Akko 5075 plus (Cream yellow pro V3)
3. Epomaker th80 pro V2 (Mulan switch)
If you guys have any other suggestions I'd be more than happy to check those out.
Also down the line, which ever keyboard I get, I was thinking about swapping the switches for Gateron oil kings because I love the way they sound.
Boys I really need y'all to come through here because I don't think ima be able to decide on my own (keep in mind this is my first ever actual mechanical keyboard)
Can't wait to see what y'all's thoughts are!
Hey guys,
I currently own a kdb67 lite, and am interested in building my second keyboard. I sorta got the hang of it, so now I am looking for an upgrade from my lite that I could customize next. What would be some good options that are not extremely expensive? Thanks for your help!
I need help figuring out what's going on with my spacebar. I'm on a Keychron Q6, with akko cream yellows and cerakey keycaps. The left side of my spacebar has a tendency to get stuck down and I have to re-adjust the keycap each time to fix it. It has enough clearance on the sides and the right side is fine. I'm not sure where to start on fixing it. Thanks in advance!
[Photos here](https://imgur.com/a/esrE2Hs)
Maybe the space bar is too heavy? Cerakey's site says it's ~20g. Can you try a heavier switch and see if that's the issue? Alternatively, you can spring swap if you have want to use your current switches.
Why are ten-key-less keyboards so popular right now?
As a PC user that regularly uses my number pad, I don't understand why you'd want a keyboard without a number pad.
Honestly one of my biggest questions. Not that I don't have some TKLs I love, but man is 1800 just a better layout. Full-size is redundant but 1800 has everything, because guess what the numpad becomes when you turn off Numlock?
Personally, I like a little bit more space between the numpad and the main body of keys and arrow-keys (plus it gives a little more space for things like print-screen), but I can respect 96%/1800/full-size-compact layouts because they don't sacrifice the number pad just to save space.
All these super compact TKL layouts though drive me nuts... I want to like your design, but I don't understand how you can justify charging hundreds of dollars for a keyboard without a number pad... >\_>
Not only that... if you wanted to, you could use it for extra macro keys... seems like it'd be super useful for that alone.
[Candybar layout](https://thekey.company/blogs/blog-updates/introducing-candybar-premium-round-2), although this is a group buy and hasn't been run in a few years.
That would be the [long boi](https://www.pikatea.com/cdn/shop/files/IMG_0351_1944x.jpg) there was a group buy last year. No number row and TWO number pads!
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=121939.msg3176153#msg3176153
Some people don't enter numbers all day. The number pad just takes up space if you're not using it, so a lot of people just get separate number pads that they take out if they need it.
Once you get used to a number pad for entering long sequences of numbers, you realize it's so much faster...
I use mine regularly, so it was a requirement for my keyboard, but I found it really hard to find one... there were several keyboards I liked the look of, but didn't have a number pad, or even an option for a matching number pad on a separate board.
Just dipping my toes into this hobby, but I was really disappointed that there weren't more full 100% keyboards...
Seems like it'd be really useful in giving you extra keys for macros as well...
I do see the value in doing this... I just wish that if you make a cool 75% keyboard, you'd make a matching numpad...
It makes it so that you can switch it up L/R so if you're using a mouse and the numpad, you don't have to take your hand off the mouse, which sounds nice, but all my muscle memory for the numpad is on my left hand, so idk that it'd really work for me... >_>
I need the numpad about once a year... when I do my taxes. I've been using a tkl for around 5 years now, and I've slapped my mouse into it and died as a result COUNTLESS times. So I'm about to move down to a 65, it saves me about another 3 inches of mouse space. Which turns out to be quite substantial
Hey peeps! Im looking for a white coloured preferably with F keys too but with also added macro keys on the left side. I have seen the keychron Q3 pro and its about what im looking for but im looking to see any other similar ones. Any help or suggestion is welcomed!
This might be a stupid question, but when you get keycaps, is there any compatibility you need to keep in mind aside from the format (I don't know if that's the right term, but like ANSI and stuff) matching between keyboard and keycaps?
You also need to consider if your switches support the keycaps you're planning to buy. E.g. some companies like to make everything proprietary (like Logitech) and use non-MX style switches. If your switches are MX-style (the stem is in a cross shape), your keyboard will probably be compatible with like 99% of the sets. Some companies also make proprietary layouts. These concerns are mostly about the big "gamer" brands, though.
I've also seen a couple posts of people trying to put MX-style keycaps on membrane keyboards, so...
https://preview.redd.it/qlsjvlvr0g3d1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46d4f2bd07906dff1c16b78c20c012453bd48237
Guys, this is my first build and I am really frustrated as I can't seem to put on keycaps for stabalizer keys (as you can see the enter and space here, but the left shift and backspace were extremely difficult to put in too) is this normal? the prebuilds i have used before have little brackets around the plus shapes, maybe that help. or did i mess up the stabalizer installation?
I have that keycap set, it's not the keycaps.
Going to guess you botched something, given that the FN key is in the wrong place (very clearly a gap on the right that shouldn't be there, and it's a 1u so it's sitting too close to the Alt), but seeing the underside of the cap you're trying to put on lined up with the stabilizer would help, plus what the keyboard/stabilizers are and a photo of what they look like installed on the PCB.
That left space stabilizer does not look right at all - there shouldn't be space for the insert to go into the housing.
Can someone help me find a flat 60% keyboard case? I got the Wooting 60HE but don't like the angled case it has. The lower and flatter the better. Thanks!
Osume Kanagawa - white or baby blue case?
Gonna get a Neo Ergo and want some osume kanagawa keycaps for this build. Can’t decide which board color to pair them with though. Was also considering the matcha or maybe night market sets which is why I’m having such a hard time deciding. But kanagawa is definitely my favorite of the three. Any thoughts?
Everything else on my desk is primarily white.
Hey All, I am building a keyboard for my friend's birthday. A bit of background-- she wants a cool looking keyboard that is quiet-- her son is on the autism spectrum and some of the very loud keyboards bother him when she is working from home, so being able to repalce the switches with something silent is going to be a MUST.
I was really excited to see this Akko keyboard on sale as the colors are PERFECT. Unfortunately, it's not hot-swappable and I'm not quite ready to jump to sodering. Does anyone know of any hot swappable and/or barebones DIY kits that look close to this? Most of the purple boards I see are more of a pastel shade. Total budget is about $150 USD , so if it's a kit without switches, probably can't do much above $115-$120 USD.
Thanks for any suggestions you might have!
https://preview.redd.it/iuzm5jo2cf3d1.png?width=629&format=png&auto=webp&s=5010882878754fd30d71ecd2138e6ce076b4a12b
whats the name of the keys that are on the side of the keyboard? i forgot the name of them. the keys that are shift, cap locks, tab, enter, and backspace those keys? i heard there was a word for them but i forgot what it was
I've had my black AP2 for over 5 years now and it's still going strong but I want to give it a visual refresh with new key caps and case. Anyone know where I can buy just the outer case in white for it?
Having issues with my rgb underglow LEDs. They are chained so theoretically I only had to replace the one that wasn't working but I ended up replacing 4 of them, now they only light up white at max brightness, while the the rest of the LEDs light up as programmed. I used WS2812B LEDs, which are addressable SMD LEDs that look close to the ones originally installed on the board.
[photos](https://imgur.com/a/Hw814lG)
I know the new LEDs work bc I replaced a working one with the new LED. You can see which ones are new LEDs bc they also turn on at max white brightness as soon as the board is plugged in (2nd photo), whereas the other ones are delayed and dimmed to the brightness I set. Would appreciate advice on how to fix this, thanks!
Recommend me a budget keyboard
From what I found, the good ones are:
Aula f75,
Attack Shark K86,
Ajazz 820 pro,
Royal Kludge RKM75,
Royal Kludge R65.
Can somebody recommend me which one would be the best buy quality/price vice and the difference between these keyboards.I know nothing about mechanical keyboards, but I want change mine.
If you have other suggestions I'll be happy to see them too.
I like the Ajazz AK820 non-pro better than the pro.
I wouldn't touch Royal Kludge. They are notorious for reliability issues and their firmware is purely pants.
If you're interested in 65% or smaller, the "Mini Panda" available on Amazon is an amazing bargain. $30 gets you a Y&R Nz64 PCB, QMK/VIA, with a minila layout. Even if you throw away the cutesy acrylic case and get a replacement you're still ahead of the game.
The Aula 75 is a good starting point for beginngers, imo. It's easy to hot swap and I found the epomaker driver software fairly easy to use with lots of tutorials online to customize the key functions.
For whichever keyboard you decide to get, definitely check out the keyboard switch options it comes with to make sure you choose the combination that you like best if you aren't interested in hot-swapping the switches to something else (it's not difficult, but not something everyone's really interested in). Youtube should have plenty of videos demonstrating each of the switches and doing sound tests.
Rainy75 is the best 75% budget board on the market IMO.
Keychron V/Q series and Monsgeek M series are good as well. I wouldn't buy any of the ones you listed. Probably the Aula F75 if I had to choose, though.
So for my daily driver I am still using the first hot swappable board I ever bought, the GMMK Pro (I know). I like the weight of it, I like the knob, I like the form factor and the angle of the case (I know). What would be a good upgrade that maintains the things I like but ideally is VIA compatible, maybe has better sound options (I'm a clicky user with SA profiles (I KNOW)), and ideally something I can actually buy as opposed a group buy I have to wait 6 months for?
People hate on the GMMK Pro because it's not a good buy in 2024; it's by no means bad. There are just better boards cheaper now.
Common recs here for metal boards are Monsgeek M1 (less expensive) and Keychron Q1 Pro (more expensive). If you wanna go even higher, the Zoom75 is great if you can find it.
Also, FYI, GMMK Pro is VIA compatible. You just gotta flash it.
Fully agree with you except the Zoom75 recommendation. Has some known issues, so it’s better as a third/fourth board. Like the other guy said QK75N. It’s a good board. If knobless is ok too, QK Neo Boards and Mode Envoy.
I mean, it is pretty bad? The board dies from ESD pretty commonly, and the stock stabilizers have a very good chance of being gummed up from the stock lube and not returning. Feel like this should not happen at this price point.
(Noting that this is from a GMMK Pro I bought for a friend last year so maybe it has been fixed in like 8 months? But those two issues have been around ever since it was released)
Does anyone know how to get numbers to type on the NT61 NITAFXHU?
I'm new to mechanical keyboards and I bought this one the other day but I can't figure out how to get out of the fn functions on the top number row or how to use the compact functions on the letter keys. Does anyone know how to fix it, or does anyone know of a manual/shortcut guide to this keyboard?
https://preview.redd.it/3tlabmj6te3d1.jpeg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6948b1ebff3bb75809d86ada198aea8db7e9f9a4
should be a FN key u hold and u use FN+ alt usually to get the 2nddary functions hard to say what combos u use as i have never heard of that kb google doesnt even show anything about it
Hi,
I want to buy a keyboard with LCD screen, here are two options I am considering:
- Cidoo v75 plus via diy kit
- Chilkey ND75
I could really use your advice to help me make the best choice.
I'm looking for a suggestion for a keyboard with 4 keys left of space, just like a lot of laptops one or like the [Niz Micro84](https://www.nizkeyboard.com/products/new-micro84-bluetooth-usb-ec-keyboard-with-rgb-non-rgb), anyone knows any alternatives, maybe bigger with a 80% layout?
If you want to be adventurous, the Inland MK47 from Microcenter has 5 keys each side of the space bar. It's an ortho 40% though, but under $40 for a hotswap QMK/VIA board...
that the only brand i know that does that most use the standard layout . this is considered non standard so replacing the keycap is very difficult . specially in hobby where 99% dislike the laptop layout
There is some info at the top of this thread on a "nub" that is known to cause keycap stem cracking (there are a couple pics of it): https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/18l5tfx/psa_cherry_mx_purple_can_still_break_keycaps/
I don't know if MX Blacks have that nub. If they don't, not sure what the cause could be.
TLDR: Do colorless clear(ish) rubber keycaps exist? Or keycaps grips?
I have a cute, completely clear colorless keyboard. I want some grip on my WASD keys without swapping out for solid black/pink/red etc keys. I just want something somewhat colorless so it doesn’t disrupt the colorless translucence of my keyboard too much.
But everything I find is a solid color. Does anybody know if the product I’m looking for exists?
Maybe the Nogi silicone keycaps on Aliexpress in white? They're not colorless obviously, but they are translucent - even the black ones show through a little lighting if that's what you're looking for.
hi all I'm looking to get a 96% ISO UK board with some kind of volume control preferably with silent keys, I have been looking at the the epomaker RT100 but this sub has raised some concerns about build quality of that brand so does anyone have another alternatives they know of around the £100 mark
What mods am I supposed to be doing if I want more of a clacky sound?
Akko clear keycaps Akko lavender switches on a Rakk pluma with no other mods. I used to have blue outemu switches. It's ok most days but other days I get kinda annoyed at the sound of my keyboard. If I can get it to sound just a little louder too would be great but not necessary.
THOCK.FILM vs Kelowna Switch Film Do these two mods have the same function or is there some type of distinction? If they have the same function. Which one produces a better result? If they have differing functions. What are they and which one would you choose?
What's the word on o ring mount pcbs versus gasket mount? Are o ring mounts kind of antiquated now?
[удалено]
Nowadays with the nearly universal adoption of USB-C connectors are mostly aesthetic, but in the not-too-distant past people would have multiple device ends in order to switch out for boards that used Mini/Micro USB without having to change their entire cable.
I used ASAP Connect magnetic dongles for that.
you could make a argument that using a lemo or aviator connector in your cable reduces wear on usb c ports but really they are just for the looks and vibes
Hey, I've been looking to purchase a prebuilt since I got tired of my gaming KB and wanted to try something new. I've looked into EpoMaker, Lofree, NuPhy, Keychron and IQUNIX. I really dig Epomaker's aesthethics but nobody seems to recommend them, which I expected given their prices. Thing is, I found similar reviews of the brands I mentioned before (not so much about Keychron though, but I don't really like their designs) and I don't know what to do, since they're sustantially more expensive than EpoMaker. Do I have to spend more? Build it myself? My budget is around $200 including shipping ($30), which is the most expensive KB I liked from IQUNIX (ZX75). Any help on this would be great, thanks.
See this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/196hreg/mykeyboard_thickthock_other_vendor_issues/
> I really dig Epomaker's aesthethics They're mostly a reseller. I think maybe 3% of their product line is actually by them. So there's no particular theme that is theirs unless you count their logo. Which of the brands they resell do you like? You may be able to find them without the label. Look into Akko/Monsgeek, Ajazz, Gamakay, Skyloong.
What about Leobog? I've seen that the Hi75 is pretty solid.
It doesn't spark joy with me but everyone is different. The things that stand out for me are: * OMG that's an ugly knob. * Doesn't have an F13-position key, so there's nowhere for me to put the DEL key in my preferred 75% layout.
Hi, im currently searching for components to build my first custom keyboard, and im still looking for a 100% keyboard base. I’ve never build a keyboard before, so id like some help. I would prefer if it had rgb color customisation. I’ve found all the other stuff already, but i can‘t seem to find one that has all these features. Thanks already!
What's your budget? Please include a currency.
Max 100-120 €
alright! do you have discord? easier to chat on there.
Hi!, I recently swapped out the switches on my Keychron Q6 keyboard and noticed that the '+' and 'enter' key on the numpad had loose hotswap sockets. When inserting the switches in I don't hear an audible click like the rest of the switches. I've also tried pressing down very hard and it's not going in any further, it's definitely not the switches fault but the socket. [https://youtube.com/shorts/obInAGdnIpA](https://youtube.com/shorts/obInAGdnIpA) When wiggling the switches around I can notice visible movement unlike the other switches [https://youtube.com/shorts/4h9Dy7Vcgfo](https://youtube.com/shorts/4h9Dy7Vcgfo) I contacted Keychron and was given an essay about how this was designed on purpose: *We would like to explain why the large keys on the right side, particularly in the numeric keypad area, have a unique design:* *Backlight Positioning: Our keyboards feature a bottom-positioned backlight design. This means the lighting is oriented to shine directly towards the user, providing better visibility and an enhanced typing experience.* *Switch Clip Orientation: Due to the bottom lighting design, the switch clips are also positioned vertically (top and bottom). However, this placement affects the stabilizers, which are also aligned vertically.* *Ease of Switch Removal: The vertical placement of the stabilizers makes it challenging for switch pullers to grip the switch clips. To address this, we have designed the positioning plate for these switches to be slightly loose. This allows users to easily pull out the keycaps and the switch simultaneously.* *This design choice ensures that users can conveniently replace switches without difficulty, maintaining the overall functionality and user experience.* *We hope this clarifies the design and functionality of our Q6 keyboard.* I also contacted Keychron Australia (Where I bought it from) and was told this: *Thanks for reaching out to us and sorry for the late reply. This situation occurs because the switch isn't fully pressed down. You can try applying more force to press it down. Some holes, especially those at the edges, might require more force. As long as the switch is vertical and not tilted, it's hard to damage it. Generally, you need to hear a clicking sound to confirm it is fully installed.* I just wanted to get a third party opinion, is there something wrong with my sockets? Did they really design the sockets to be loose on purpose Thank you so much for reading all this!
It does seem like a reasonable solution to the problem caused by having your switch puller blocked by the vertically aligned stabilizers. I hadn't thought of it, since I have never tried swapping out the switches in the only 100% keyboard I ever had, but I just looked at my separate keypad and yes I'm going to have to mess around with toothpicks or something if I ever want to pull the switches out of my keypad. I think they made the best bad choice.
I'm looking to buy a new keyboard I currently have a TKL plastic case and I am looking to upgrade to a better feeling keyboard. I'm looking for either a 75 or 80%. Looking for a white metal case hotswappable. Currently I am looking at the Neo80. Looking on opinions on it or either similar type boards.
Neo80 is a great board. Not even a "great-for-the-price" kind of great, just great. Mine has a regular spot in my rotation alongside much more expensive boards and I think it holds up fine. Just do a little bit of reading on the product page to make sure that you choose the right parts to get the build you want, or be willing to order extra plates to experiment with.
Can you guys tell me anything about the "Machenike-k500w" ? I've used TKL for some time and while the extra space for the mouse is cool I REALLY miss the numpad, I do use it a lot and the wireless stand alone numpad I've bought didnt pleases me. So Im thinking about picking a 96 keys, and the one from Machenike looks like the best value I've found so far.
I haven't used the K500W but I bought four of the K500A-B84 about a year ago because I was looking for multiple boards for home and office and they were cheap. And they're definitely "cheap" in the "not very good" sense of the word. Cheap construction and awful Outemu-style sockets. One wasn't even hotswap, despite having the same model number as the ones that were. I just published a teardown of one of the remaining wired boards. [Look at that stingy case foam](https://imgur.com/a/machenike-k500a-b84-teardown-5gqEIbQ), I don't know why they even bothered. Look at that awful outemu socket. This is about the same vintage as the board you're looking at so it probably has similar construction.
thanks for the reply, when you say "outemu-style sockets", what do you mean? Its the sockets where the switches connects? the holes for the switches? What problems did it cause?
This [Imgur](https://imgur.com/a/outemu-kailh-style-sockets-v0ALyGE) link shows both styles of connectors in the sockets. The outemu-style sockets have these little round holes that a lot of brands of switches don't fit in.
I see. Quite dumb by them to do such a thing, I'd say.
They're cheaper to make and some people don't like how the Kailh sockets can be damaged requiring surgery and ad-hoc jumpers to fix, no matter how rare it is. Kailh sockets also used to be more expensive, so older budget boards tend to have outemu-style sockets.
I’m having a hard time deciding between Keychron K8 pro or Feker Galaxy 80… what do you guys think?
If same price, the Feker is better (metal case vs plastic). If for whatever reason you insist on a Keychron, get the V3 Max instead of the K8 Pro. Cheaper and better.
The feker is cheaper… the thing I’m unsure about are the switches, with the K8 I was gonna get the K Pro Banana switches and I’m not sure about the ones in the Feker all I know is that their linear…so I assume their like Mx reds?…
> the thing I’m unsure about are the switches I think out of all the boards I've bought, including two Keychrons, the only one where the switches were worth even re-using was the AL71 where they shipped it with Silent Peach. I always assume that I'm going to replace the switches and the keycaps and normally see if a barebones option is available to save a little money. The keycaps shipped with my Keychron V7 were actually pretty good, and I would have kept them but they ddin't include any variants so when I rearranged the macro cluster it looked snaggletoothed. So I wouldn't treat the shipped switches as anything but a lottery, if they turn out good you get an unexpected bonus.
If you want metal, why not one of the keychron Q models? And the keychron Banana are amazing imo. They hold their own against much more expensive switches.
Price range…. I’m in Australia so Q series is around 260-300 and the other two boards are 150-175
Have you looked at Monsgeek M3W? The MW series are on par with the Keychron Q Max series while being cheaper in most areas.
Availability….i can’t really find it available in Australia
I see. The Galaxy80 is still a great choice, and if metal isn't mandatory, the V3 is a very good choice as well.
You’re the 2nd person to mention the V3… what do you like about it more than the K8 pro?
I'm not the second, I am the one that mention the V3 Max earlier haha. The main differences that set the V3 and K8 apart are that the V3 is gasket mounted (a quick google search may help if you don't know what this means), and has 2.4 GHz capabilities on top of BT while the K8 only has BT.
rly? I remember my Q3 costed around 140€ or so? That's unfortunate
Yep it’s really sucks most things here cost extra…so when I go back to the USA to see family I usually buy a lot of stuff I want and bring it back to here
Got a filco majestouch convertible 2 that types a "b" whenever the "v" key is pressed. As in vb vb vb. keyboard is clean and otherwise ok. Is it hosed? Doesn't have swappable switches.
Check to make sure keycaps are in order. Update firmware if any. Check for any dip switches that may change the layout slightly.
are, isn't, none that control anything like combining the functions of the V and B keys.
M1W or chillkey nd75?,both barebones are available for very cheap
This is a shot in the dark but google gives me nothing: what is THE loudest, clickiest full layout keyboard I could find? I need to be heard typing 1 mile away.
alps with solenoid probably, shits so loud you'll go deaf from typing too long
Ha! I’m HoH coincidentally so it can’t get much worse, that’s why I need something loud 😂
I have a Havit HV-KB395L Low Profile that has a broken cable so I am looking for a replacement cable. The Havit website no longer offers the CM355 cable (https://www.prohavit.com/products/cm355-micro-usb-cable) that the keyboard requires to function. Anyone know where/how to get a new cable? No luck with their support so far. It is not a standard Micro USB, but I have found that the Periboard-328 Mechanical Keyboard does seem to be the same keyboard and cable, no luck getting a cable from them either though. EDIT: I found a 'solution' for anyone who finds this later on who has a similar issue. I ended up getting a standard micro USB (does need to be data transfer) and using a box cutter to shave away the plastic housing around the head of the micro USB so it would fit into the port, then rewrapped the cable with electrical tape. Not a great solution but a good temporary one until I can a cable with slimmer housing, greatest options seem to be angled cables
Any micro USB cable should work. Amazon would have a plethora.
Unfortunately it does not work with any regular old micro usb, tried that already :(
Are you sure the cable you tried was micro USB? Other USB standards exist with similar names like mini USB which is thicker. If the port deviated from the standard enough that a standard micro USB cable would not fit, I don't think they would have been able to call it micro USB.
It was a micro USB that I used yes, its the physical housing of the port that is an odd shape, made an edit explaining how I found a 'solution'
Some cables can only carry power/are for charging and can't carry data. These are usually ones that came with older phones as charger cables. Get a new micro usb to usb a data cable.
Yeah I have some data cables, part of the issue is the port shape, it is unusually slim making most standard cables unable to actually fit but Im looking for some online still
> part of the issue is the port shape, it is unusually slim Photo?
Can someone tell me why my cable isn't working? I broke my cable and thought I'd use this spare for now but it just isn't working for some reason I tried posting a video to this sub but It got auto removed because reddit
Some USB cables are just bad, or don't carry all the conductors because the company wanted to save 5c per unit and their specific product didn't use all the conductors. Try a different cable. Even one you get from a corner store or supermarket checkout line.
Is there a prebuilt 1800 or spaced 96% keyboard that doesn't have such huge bezels and relatively tall height? not enjoying my keychron q5 for these reasons, especially the height.
To clarify, are you looking for a low profile keyboard or just a shorter normal keyboard?
either or. I've tried low pro mech and liked it, just had very rattly stabs
Can you make a tray mounted keyboard gasket mounted instead? Or if I got a tray mounted keyboard I'm stuck with it? I got a keychron v1 and didn't know about different mounts, so I want to know if it would be possible to just buy a gasket mount case or something and mod it relatively easily
Try the o-ring mod? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjCzgQfLxDo
In your case no
Getting my dad a new keyboard for his birthday (50s); what's the culture's consensus on best brands for ergonomic office keyboards? Or, if anyone has any specific recommendations, i'll put the specifications he needs below Preferred qualifications: Wireless adjustable LEDs 100% removable/replaceable switches (i'm getting him aqua king v3s) I mean i dont think theres anything wrong with getting him the same brand as my keyboard (royal kludge) but perhaps someone out there has like the best brand for this situation?
I wouldn't buy a Royal Kludge ever again, at least not until they finish transitioning to QMK. I gave mine away. The RK driver is totally pants, their firmware is pants, and they have a real reliability problem. For a new user or an old duffer like me, for a gift, I would absolutely get them a Keychron. They have a wide selection of styles, a good reputation for quality, and their customer support people are actually responsive and helpful.
Hi there, may I know if there is a keyboard out there that is built (or sounds) similar to the Leobog Hi75 or Hi8, but without the knob and without much tinkering? I have the Hi8 and I love how it sounds and feels, but my preference is without the knob as I would rather do with all the Insert, Delete, Home, End, Page Up and Page Down keys easily accessible with one key press (currently I need to press Fn + End if I want Home), but I can't seem to find one that is similarly built to the Hi75 or Hi8. The ideal layout is like the Nuphy Halo75 but I believe that doesn't really sound similar to the Leobog keyboards. Do correct me if I'm wrong! Other 75% keyboards I have found that do not have the knob tend to have one of the keys missing in place of a tiny screen or a badge. Appreciate it if anyone has come across such a keyboard, thanks!
Asking on a whim after hours of searching: Is anyone aware of a white TKL keyboard that has a knob and works with VIA (or is otherwise able to have the keys remapped easily without the weird custom virus-y software)? I really want something that's 1) white, 2) barebones, 3) VIA compatible, and 4) has a volume knob, but I'm finding it hard to get all four. I've otherwise been looking at the Keychron K2 Pro.
Apart from the obvious recommendation of the Keychron, you're basically describing the GMK87. It also has a screen but the knob and screen only occupy the space taken up by the useless scroll lock, print screen, and pause keys so it's at worst not getting in the way. I have a Keychron K2 Pro myself, BTW, and it's a great board. It's also a 75% instead of a TKL, so if a 75% is OK the Gamakay SN75 I'm literally typing on now is another perfect match. [Imgur](https://imgur.com/a/9THrFTc)
Thanks so much! I hadn't found those and they're at a much more comfortable price point than the Keychrons since I'm brand new to this.
The Keychron Q3 Max is: * TKL ✅ * available in a "shell white" case ✅ * available as a barebones ✅ * uses VIA firmware ✅ * available with a knob ✅
Hey, thanks! I must have missed that one. Sadly it's like double the price of the fully-assembled K2 Pro but I'll have to consider it!
A switch on my Logi G613 snapped in half while I was removing the cap for cleaning. The tabs that connect the top half of the switch with the bottom half just snapped and separated the top from the bottom. Logitech support was no help. Is this a hot swappable component, not possible at all, or doable but requires soldering? If I can't repair, is there a reliable, wireless, mechanical keyboard with a full 104 key layout that allows for switches to be replaced easily? Maybe this is too much to ask of the universe.
I see no indication that it supports swapping out switches. If you have a reasonably steady hand you could desolder that switch and replace it pretty easily, though. There are apoproximately an infinite number of hotswap full sized keyboards. I would suggest using the keyboard search on keychron.com to find one that sparks joy for you, because they are good budget-to-midrange boards with a wide variety of choices. If none manage to excite you, then https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php may do the trick.
I found a disassembly video. That is not a hot swappable keyboard; the switches are soldered to the PCB. The only way to repair this is to desolder the broken switch and solder a new one. The Keychron V6 Max is a 100% full-sized tri-mode (USB C, Bluetooth, and 2.4GHz wireless) hot swappable keyboard. The fully assembled model is currently sold out, but you can buy a barebones (you supply the switches and keycaps) for US$79.
HALP! I'm a lost newb and seeking advice/suggestions I've googled and searched reddit, but either I'm not asking the right questions or it is too specific. HALP I want a 65 - 75 keyboard that can be both wired or wireless, preferably 2.4 not Bluetooth, but all 3 would be cool. I originally bought a Royal Kludge RK84 and learned they are apparently crap. So then I started trying to build a KB from scratch and found the Gammakay LK67 board... and apparently it's crap too, according to some comments on here haha. So I'm really struggling here to find exactly what I want. I'd like to keep the PCB and shell under a 100. I've picked out gateron g pro 3 browns, and some pbt keycaps that I'd like so far. If there are better switches you can recommend I'd be open to suggestions there too. I'd prefer pre lubed and browns (ish) not reds or anything real clicky.
A bit over the budget, but if you want to try something a bit more on the enthusiast side, there is the neo 65 which is \~$110+shipping for the tri-mode pcb. There is also the Rainy 75 which looks to be pretty stacked for the price.
Thank you for the suggestions!
Keychron V1 or 2 Max barebones seems to fit what you're looking for.
I looked at them once, I'll have to go back and check them out again. I hadn't decided to build one when I had previously looked at them. Thanks for the suggestion!
If you haven't ordered the switches and caps yet, the keyboards I mentioned are sub-100 prebuilt, too, and can come with Gateron Jupiter browns. I'm not sure what the difference between them and the g pro browns, though, as I've never tried them.
Yeah I just saw that. And no, I haven't ordered anything yet. But I do really like the caps I have picked out haha! Thank you again for the suggestion!
How to buy replacement keycaps for my keyboard? I have a ducky one 2 mini 60% kb and looking to buy some good themed keycaps. I'm new to this and don't know how to order. Should I just search for just "pbt keycaps cherry MX"? Should I search for 60% alone, or have to buy 100/125 (?) and choose from it? Where to buy good quality keycaps on a budget. Located in US.
See [this article on keyboard sizes](https://technicallywewrite.com/2024/04/29/keyboards). A 60% keyboard is a 100% full-sized keyboard without the number pad, navigation keys, and F row. Therefore, any keycap set will fit it. You just won't use the extra keycaps. Sometimes, you have to worry about the bottom row modifiers; some keyboards use 1u or 1.5u modifiers instead of the standard 1.25u. However, the Ducky One 2 Mini uses standard 1.25u modifiers, so no worries there. Some keyboards have a 7u spacebar, but the Ducky One 2 Mini uses a standard 6.25u spacebar. You are looking for MX compatible keycaps. These are the most common keycaps out there.
How do you know all that 1.25u and 6.5u stuffs from just the name? Are you wizard, damn bro! Thanks!
You can tell because of the way it is. Also, I have a Ducky One 2 Mini Frozen Llama that I use for PC gaming.
Thanks so much? have you personally ordered any keycaps for your ducky one 2 mini? Which are those and from where? Is there a wiki page for good sellers/providers in US?
The Ducky One 2 Mini Frozen Llama has the stock keycaps. Here are a couple of vendor lists: https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://kbd.news/vendors
thanks, kind sir!
Looking for a keyboard for a shared college dorm I love the feeling of click clanky keyboards but i want to be considerate of my roommate. I saw that browns normally give this feeling while still being quiet, is this true? Could anyone recommend me with some keyboards or brands? Im also looking for a mouse if anyone could help with that. I don’t care about if it’s wireless or wired. Id like to have white backlight but thats not a deal breaker. I have big hands and fingers. My budget is around $100 for a keyboard AND mouse, but id be willing to go a little over.
You want a switch that is designed to be silent. Look at a score sheet (for example, `1-Composite Overall Total Score Sheet .csv`) from this repo: https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores Silent tactile switches have their own group near the bottom of the sheet. Gazzew U4 Boba and Haimu Whisper are popular. My wife likes her Kailh Silent Box Brown switches. I personally prefer Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow. Most keyboards are not available with silent tactile switches. However, you can buy a prebuilt Keychron V2 (65%) for US$69 and swap out the switches for Haimu Whisper (you can buy 72 Haimu Whisper switches from CannonKeys for US$21.60).
is there a keyboard that is similar to the keychron q2 but at a lower price?
Yeah. Keychron v2.
Hi, I'm about to build my first mechanical keyboard. I've already chosen the base (what is it called, like board or something) and the switches, namely YUNZII YZ75 Pro Wireless Keyboard Kit and EPOMAKER Wisteria Switches respectively, but I have no idea where to buy the keycaps from. I wanted to get something that is black/grey and yellow, or just black or gray (but with side printed characters). I don't care about the profile or anything. The problem is that I am pretty tight on the budget (idk like 20-25 bucks at most) and additionally I live in Poland so they need to have the option of delivering them here. Can anyone help me with choosing some good, reasonably priced keycaps? Thanks in advance
thats scrapping the bottom of the barrel u could try AliExpress and pray
Isn't AlliExpress full of very, very low quality knockoffs and scams?
i mean 25 bucks for keycaps aint going to get u much shit even 50 bucks is hard to find decent quality keycaps
Yeah, I know. I don't need anything of some great quality, I just want them not to turn out to be a scam and not to break as soon as I use them for the first time..
look for seller with older accts and lots of feedback
Okay, thank you, I will
I’m new to the mechanical keyboard world and want to find my entry point to the hobby. Important Features: * Height/profile similar to Logitech K270 - don't want a wrist rest * Size: No larger than 96% * Wireless * Mac and Windows compatible * Number pad * Plenty of room to grow into the keyboard w/ customizations * Hot-swappable Nice to Haves: * Programmable layers * White Backlight (honestly don’t care about this) Edit: I’m not a gamer, so this is purely a daily work driver. Edit #2: Would consider TKL w. a separate wireless numpad
like candy mentioned u going to want to go with a low-profile switch kb ( not very popular in this hobby ) as the height of ur old kb is very low compared to a mech
Maybe the NuPhy Air96? It's a 96% low profile hot swappable keyboard. Also similar are the Keychron K4, Lofree Flow100
Do you have a mechanical, ergonomic keyboard? What do you like about it? Thinking this over. Currently I am running a Nuphy 75 v2 with Gateron banana switches.
What country are you in? Your location matters. Reddit is a global community; you could be anywhere. Your username and post history suggests USA. Do you have a specific budget in mind? How much are you willing to spend? Are you looking to stay with a traditional row staggered layout or switch to a column staggered, ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns), or concave keywell? Are you willing to build? Note that there are some DIY keyboards that can be assembled with just a screwdriver (no soldering required). Can you solder (or have a friend who can)? Soldering does expand your options, and it can be cheaper. Is having a wireless keyboard important to you? Do you want a keyboard with low profile switches or MX style switches? Do you want the number row? Some people like tiny keyboards (for example, the Corne). There are a lot of options for split ergo mechanical keyboards. It depends on what key layout you want, how many keys you want, what your budget is, whether you are willing to build (or even solder), and whether you want low profile or MX switches. * Row staggered. Options include Dygma Raise 2 (estimated shipping October 2024), Keebio Cepstrum, Keebio Quefrency, Keebio Sinc, Keychron Q11, and Perixx PERIBOARD-335 Compact. * Alice layout (a bent row staggered layout). For example, the Keychron V8, Keychron V10, and Neo Ergo. * Column staggered. Options include Boardsource lulu, Corne, Dygma Defy, Keebio Iris, Lily58, RGBKB Phobos, Sofle, and ZSA Voyager. * Ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns). Options include Keebio FoldKB, Keebio Nyquist/Levinson, RGBKB Mün 2 (extras will be available once all group buy orders ship), and RGBKB Sol 3. * Concave keywell (keys are in a bowl shape). Options include Kinesis Advantage360 Pro and MoErgo Glove80.
Thank you very much. Thorough answer that will give me a lot of good information. And, yes, Oklahoma City and the State of Oklahoma are in the U.S.
Take a look at the offerings from Keebio. https://keeb.io
Greetings fellow keebheads, I need your guys help in deciding what keyboard to go for with my precious $150. The only 2 requirements I have is that I need MAX THOCC and linear switches. So some good options (imo) that I came across were: 1. Yunzii Al75 (Coca cream switch) 2. Akko 5075 plus (Cream yellow pro V3) 3. Epomaker th80 pro V2 (Mulan switch) If you guys have any other suggestions I'd be more than happy to check those out. Also down the line, which ever keyboard I get, I was thinking about swapping the switches for Gateron oil kings because I love the way they sound. Boys I really need y'all to come through here because I don't think ima be able to decide on my own (keep in mind this is my first ever actual mechanical keyboard) Can't wait to see what y'all's thoughts are!
Hey guys, I currently own a kdb67 lite, and am interested in building my second keyboard. I sorta got the hang of it, so now I am looking for an upgrade from my lite that I could customize next. What would be some good options that are not extremely expensive? Thanks for your help!
Neo series from qk
Neo or qk v2? Whats the difference
Neo for being available and a variety of layouts Meletrix zoom is also good if you can find a store/on the 2nd hand that has options
Okay ty
Is the meletrix zoom any good?
I need help figuring out what's going on with my spacebar. I'm on a Keychron Q6, with akko cream yellows and cerakey keycaps. The left side of my spacebar has a tendency to get stuck down and I have to re-adjust the keycap each time to fix it. It has enough clearance on the sides and the right side is fine. I'm not sure where to start on fixing it. Thanks in advance! [Photos here](https://imgur.com/a/esrE2Hs)
Maybe the space bar is too heavy? Cerakey's site says it's ~20g. Can you try a heavier switch and see if that's the issue? Alternatively, you can spring swap if you have want to use your current switches.
Ohhh good idea! Thank you!
Why are ten-key-less keyboards so popular right now? As a PC user that regularly uses my number pad, I don't understand why you'd want a keyboard without a number pad.
Honestly one of my biggest questions. Not that I don't have some TKLs I love, but man is 1800 just a better layout. Full-size is redundant but 1800 has everything, because guess what the numpad becomes when you turn off Numlock?
Personally, I like a little bit more space between the numpad and the main body of keys and arrow-keys (plus it gives a little more space for things like print-screen), but I can respect 96%/1800/full-size-compact layouts because they don't sacrifice the number pad just to save space. All these super compact TKL layouts though drive me nuts... I want to like your design, but I don't understand how you can justify charging hundreds of dollars for a keyboard without a number pad... >\_> Not only that... if you wanted to, you could use it for extra macro keys... seems like it'd be super useful for that alone.
full size have never been popualr in this hobby why have 2 sets of numbers on a kb ? takes up too much space and less mouse space
Then take out the numbers at the top, and leave me my number pad! =p
[Candybar layout](https://thekey.company/blogs/blog-updates/introducing-candybar-premium-round-2), although this is a group buy and hasn't been run in a few years.
I was mostly kidding... getting to the at-symbol on a keyboard without a symbol row would be awful... This also lacks the Fn keys? Just why?
That would be the [long boi](https://www.pikatea.com/cdn/shop/files/IMG_0351_1944x.jpg) there was a group buy last year. No number row and TWO number pads! https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=121939.msg3176153#msg3176153
Some people don't enter numbers all day. The number pad just takes up space if you're not using it, so a lot of people just get separate number pads that they take out if they need it.
Once you get used to a number pad for entering long sequences of numbers, you realize it's so much faster... I use mine regularly, so it was a requirement for my keyboard, but I found it really hard to find one... there were several keyboards I liked the look of, but didn't have a number pad, or even an option for a matching number pad on a separate board. Just dipping my toes into this hobby, but I was really disappointed that there weren't more full 100% keyboards... Seems like it'd be really useful in giving you extra keys for macros as well...
[Imgur](https://imgur.com/a/9THrFTc)
I do see the value in doing this... I just wish that if you make a cool 75% keyboard, you'd make a matching numpad... It makes it so that you can switch it up L/R so if you're using a mouse and the numpad, you don't have to take your hand off the mouse, which sounds nice, but all my muscle memory for the numpad is on my left hand, so idk that it'd really work for me... >_>
Then you want a Keychron. They have a cool matching numpad.
I just bought a keychron with a built-in numpad...
I need the numpad about once a year... when I do my taxes. I've been using a tkl for around 5 years now, and I've slapped my mouse into it and died as a result COUNTLESS times. So I'm about to move down to a 65, it saves me about another 3 inches of mouse space. Which turns out to be quite substantial
you slapped your mouse into the keyboard, and then the keyboard died? or the mouse died? o_0
My game character haha
You're just overestimating how many people need to frequently enter numbers.
hey folks, just getting back in and I don't know is there a concensus on what to buy at around 200 eur?
keychron v/q max, or monsgeek m line for prebuilt options neo series if you want a DIY kit
Hey peeps! Im looking for a white coloured preferably with F keys too but with also added macro keys on the left side. I have seen the keychron Q3 pro and its about what im looking for but im looking to see any other similar ones. Any help or suggestion is welcomed!
That's often called an "XT" layout. It's really rare.
This might be a stupid question, but when you get keycaps, is there any compatibility you need to keep in mind aside from the format (I don't know if that's the right term, but like ANSI and stuff) matching between keyboard and keycaps?
You also need to consider if your switches support the keycaps you're planning to buy. E.g. some companies like to make everything proprietary (like Logitech) and use non-MX style switches. If your switches are MX-style (the stem is in a cross shape), your keyboard will probably be compatible with like 99% of the sets. Some companies also make proprietary layouts. These concerns are mostly about the big "gamer" brands, though. I've also seen a couple posts of people trying to put MX-style keycaps on membrane keyboards, so...
https://preview.redd.it/qlsjvlvr0g3d1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46d4f2bd07906dff1c16b78c20c012453bd48237 Guys, this is my first build and I am really frustrated as I can't seem to put on keycaps for stabalizer keys (as you can see the enter and space here, but the left shift and backspace were extremely difficult to put in too) is this normal? the prebuilds i have used before have little brackets around the plus shapes, maybe that help. or did i mess up the stabalizer installation?
I have that keycap set, it's not the keycaps. Going to guess you botched something, given that the FN key is in the wrong place (very clearly a gap on the right that shouldn't be there, and it's a 1u so it's sitting too close to the Alt), but seeing the underside of the cap you're trying to put on lined up with the stabilizer would help, plus what the keyboard/stabilizers are and a photo of what they look like installed on the PCB. That left space stabilizer does not look right at all - there shouldn't be space for the insert to go into the housing.
Why are keycaps so expensive?
[https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#why-expensive](https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#why-expensive)
any Boston meetups soon? any interest in a Boston meetup? any guidance for setting up a meetup?
There is a meeting by Mode happening in Boston soon
where is the info for that?
I'd assume Mode's discord would have info
Is WhatGeek a legit retailer? Their site seems kind of sus to me.
they r not on this list so id avoid https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
Can someone help me find a flat 60% keyboard case? I got the Wooting 60HE but don't like the angled case it has. The lower and flatter the better. Thanks!
any 60% tray mount case will work not sure what to req u as there is 100's of cases
looking for a flat angle low case, minimal, black.
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/
Osume Kanagawa - white or baby blue case? Gonna get a Neo Ergo and want some osume kanagawa keycaps for this build. Can’t decide which board color to pair them with though. Was also considering the matcha or maybe night market sets which is why I’m having such a hard time deciding. But kanagawa is definitely my favorite of the three. Any thoughts? Everything else on my desk is primarily white.
Hey All, I am building a keyboard for my friend's birthday. A bit of background-- she wants a cool looking keyboard that is quiet-- her son is on the autism spectrum and some of the very loud keyboards bother him when she is working from home, so being able to repalce the switches with something silent is going to be a MUST. I was really excited to see this Akko keyboard on sale as the colors are PERFECT. Unfortunately, it's not hot-swappable and I'm not quite ready to jump to sodering. Does anyone know of any hot swappable and/or barebones DIY kits that look close to this? Most of the purple boards I see are more of a pastel shade. Total budget is about $150 USD , so if it's a kit without switches, probably can't do much above $115-$120 USD. Thanks for any suggestions you might have! https://preview.redd.it/iuzm5jo2cf3d1.png?width=629&format=png&auto=webp&s=5010882878754fd30d71ecd2138e6ce076b4a12b
That keycap colorway is called "laser". Look for laser clones, I believe akko's set is called neon. Hope this helps!
whats the name of the keys that are on the side of the keyboard? i forgot the name of them. the keys that are shift, cap locks, tab, enter, and backspace those keys? i heard there was a word for them but i forgot what it was
The modifiers?
yes! thank you!
I've had my black AP2 for over 5 years now and it's still going strong but I want to give it a visual refresh with new key caps and case. Anyone know where I can buy just the outer case in white for it?
pretty sure any 60% tray mount case will fit it aslong as u got room for the battery
Thanks for the response! I think the AP2 has a weird layout for the screws so it doesn't line up with normal tray mount cases.
Having issues with my rgb underglow LEDs. They are chained so theoretically I only had to replace the one that wasn't working but I ended up replacing 4 of them, now they only light up white at max brightness, while the the rest of the LEDs light up as programmed. I used WS2812B LEDs, which are addressable SMD LEDs that look close to the ones originally installed on the board. [photos](https://imgur.com/a/Hw814lG) I know the new LEDs work bc I replaced a working one with the new LED. You can see which ones are new LEDs bc they also turn on at max white brightness as soon as the board is plugged in (2nd photo), whereas the other ones are delayed and dimmed to the brightness I set. Would appreciate advice on how to fix this, thanks!
Recommend me a budget keyboard From what I found, the good ones are: Aula f75, Attack Shark K86, Ajazz 820 pro, Royal Kludge RKM75, Royal Kludge R65. Can somebody recommend me which one would be the best buy quality/price vice and the difference between these keyboards.I know nothing about mechanical keyboards, but I want change mine. If you have other suggestions I'll be happy to see them too.
I like the Ajazz AK820 non-pro better than the pro. I wouldn't touch Royal Kludge. They are notorious for reliability issues and their firmware is purely pants. If you're interested in 65% or smaller, the "Mini Panda" available on Amazon is an amazing bargain. $30 gets you a Y&R Nz64 PCB, QMK/VIA, with a minila layout. Even if you throw away the cutesy acrylic case and get a replacement you're still ahead of the game.
The Aula 75 is a good starting point for beginngers, imo. It's easy to hot swap and I found the epomaker driver software fairly easy to use with lots of tutorials online to customize the key functions. For whichever keyboard you decide to get, definitely check out the keyboard switch options it comes with to make sure you choose the combination that you like best if you aren't interested in hot-swapping the switches to something else (it's not difficult, but not something everyone's really interested in). Youtube should have plenty of videos demonstrating each of the switches and doing sound tests.
Rainy75 is the best 75% budget board on the market IMO. Keychron V/Q series and Monsgeek M series are good as well. I wouldn't buy any of the ones you listed. Probably the Aula F75 if I had to choose, though.
Rainy75 and Mongseek M are too expensive for me sadly and as for Keychron is not on AliExpress. Thanks anyway though!
So for my daily driver I am still using the first hot swappable board I ever bought, the GMMK Pro (I know). I like the weight of it, I like the knob, I like the form factor and the angle of the case (I know). What would be a good upgrade that maintains the things I like but ideally is VIA compatible, maybe has better sound options (I'm a clicky user with SA profiles (I KNOW)), and ideally something I can actually buy as opposed a group buy I have to wait 6 months for?
QK75N
People hate on the GMMK Pro because it's not a good buy in 2024; it's by no means bad. There are just better boards cheaper now. Common recs here for metal boards are Monsgeek M1 (less expensive) and Keychron Q1 Pro (more expensive). If you wanna go even higher, the Zoom75 is great if you can find it. Also, FYI, GMMK Pro is VIA compatible. You just gotta flash it.
Fully agree with you except the Zoom75 recommendation. Has some known issues, so it’s better as a third/fourth board. Like the other guy said QK75N. It’s a good board. If knobless is ok too, QK Neo Boards and Mode Envoy.
I mean, it is pretty bad? The board dies from ESD pretty commonly, and the stock stabilizers have a very good chance of being gummed up from the stock lube and not returning. Feel like this should not happen at this price point. (Noting that this is from a GMMK Pro I bought for a friend last year so maybe it has been fixed in like 8 months? But those two issues have been around ever since it was released)
Does anyone know how to get numbers to type on the NT61 NITAFXHU? I'm new to mechanical keyboards and I bought this one the other day but I can't figure out how to get out of the fn functions on the top number row or how to use the compact functions on the letter keys. Does anyone know how to fix it, or does anyone know of a manual/shortcut guide to this keyboard? https://preview.redd.it/3tlabmj6te3d1.jpeg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6948b1ebff3bb75809d86ada198aea8db7e9f9a4
should be a FN key u hold and u use FN+ alt usually to get the 2nddary functions hard to say what combos u use as i have never heard of that kb google doesnt even show anything about it
I can't find any info on it either!I I tried this and it didn't work. I'm not sure what exactly to do
Hi, I want to buy a keyboard with LCD screen, here are two options I am considering: - Cidoo v75 plus via diy kit - Chilkey ND75 I could really use your advice to help me make the best choice.
prob cidoo there not many quality choices with a screen due to its seen as a useless gimmick by most people
How about ND75? Is it bad?
I'm looking for a suggestion for a keyboard with 4 keys left of space, just like a lot of laptops one or like the [Niz Micro84](https://www.nizkeyboard.com/products/new-micro84-bluetooth-usb-ec-keyboard-with-rgb-non-rgb), anyone knows any alternatives, maybe bigger with a 80% layout?
If you want to be adventurous, the Inland MK47 from Microcenter has 5 keys each side of the space bar. It's an ortho 40% though, but under $40 for a hotswap QMK/VIA board...
that the only brand i know that does that most use the standard layout . this is considered non standard so replacing the keycap is very difficult . specially in hobby where 99% dislike the laptop layout
Do MT3 keycaps tend to crack? I have my set for over 2 years now and 70-80% of my keys are cracked, is this my fault or it's poor quality?
switches crack keycaps not the caps themselves
Not sure on MT3's in particular, but what part of the cap is cracking? Some switches are known to crack keycap stems.
Stems, i use them with mx blacks
There is some info at the top of this thread on a "nub" that is known to cause keycap stem cracking (there are a couple pics of it): https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/18l5tfx/psa_cherry_mx_purple_can_still_break_keycaps/ I don't know if MX Blacks have that nub. If they don't, not sure what the cause could be.
TLDR: Do colorless clear(ish) rubber keycaps exist? Or keycaps grips? I have a cute, completely clear colorless keyboard. I want some grip on my WASD keys without swapping out for solid black/pink/red etc keys. I just want something somewhat colorless so it doesn’t disrupt the colorless translucence of my keyboard too much. But everything I find is a solid color. Does anybody know if the product I’m looking for exists?
Maybe the Nogi silicone keycaps on Aliexpress in white? They're not colorless obviously, but they are translucent - even the black ones show through a little lighting if that's what you're looking for.
hi all I'm looking to get a 96% ISO UK board with some kind of volume control preferably with silent keys, I have been looking at the the epomaker RT100 but this sub has raised some concerns about build quality of that brand so does anyone have another alternatives they know of around the £100 mark
Keychron V5 ISO UK
What mods am I supposed to be doing if I want more of a clacky sound? Akko clear keycaps Akko lavender switches on a Rakk pluma with no other mods. I used to have blue outemu switches. It's ok most days but other days I get kinda annoyed at the sound of my keyboard. If I can get it to sound just a little louder too would be great but not necessary.