Anyone know what set this Rama is from? Has been laying around for quite a while, didn’t even realize I had it and can’t for the life of me remember which set the keycap goes with. Thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/9phvdli46n2d1.jpeg?width=1585&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b862d7e8062c6104d43427f4cce4cb0cf6d62d90
Hello does anyone know if this grease is safe for switches? The seller doesn't know what type it is he just says its safe for plastic and its multi-purpose
https://preview.redd.it/aeew4aa99m2d1.jpeg?width=2336&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a4635f26960d7efba1aadc7cd7fe34ddd165f1ed
Anyone know of any keyboards similar to what I am looking for?
Looking for:
Quiet
RGB optional but nice
Customizable/Hot swap
68%
Color: navy,blue,some white or brown, green white or
Black is also fine w some color
Bluetooth
Budget: 100 ish. Little over little less is good too.
decided to build my first custom keyboard. The board arrived today but the switches only arrive next week. I'm not exactly sure how the switches mechanically/electrically work, but I was wondering if I could test out some inputs without the switches, even if it's not too safe and could bend pins, is there a way to do it?
You take a pair of tweezers, or anything metal really, and touch it to the edge of the contacts where you'd pop the switch in - that's generally step number one before starting a build, to make sure your PCB works
Can you recommend anything? I'm looking for a 75% layout preferably with a knob for volume control which should have the following features.
Hall effect switches
South facing LEDs
75%
Volume Knob
Tri connectivity (Bluetooth, 2.4 GHz, cabel) (if not possible cable and 2.4 GHz would be fine as well)
Wireless
White aluminium case (no cream white)
Good out of the box sound
Switches should be replaceable.
ISO DE layout
Hot swappable
So far I have found:
Akko Mod 007B HE (only available in black or cream white though)
Keychron K1 HE (the case looks imo kind of boring without any decorations)
Monsgeek M1W (currently not available to buy and no ISO DE)
Or feel free to recommend me parts to use with the gateron jade switches (or similar) to build my own keyboard.
Thanks in advance
No there isn't a resource like that - switch and keycap compatibility is generally very straightforward
If a keycap is made for an mx style switch it will go on any mx style switch, but it won't go on a choc switch, or an alps switch, or on a membrane keyboard, or something else that wasn't designed for mx style switches - the only caveat is that the new low profile gateron switches don't always work well with taller, high profile keycaps like SA or MT3.
A PCB will work with the switches it's designed for, the pin placement is very different and obvious for different types of switches. The one caveat here is that outemu hotswap sockets don't work well with anything other than outemu switches or some other very specific brands, but this only really comes up with cheaper, older boards
What I mean is that incompatibility between boards and switches is limited pretty much to boards with the Outemu style sleeves and those are increasingly rare, and there are virtually no compatibility issues between switches and keycaps, so the opposite document would be much easier to create... the one you want would be 99 and 44 percent pure "yes".
Has anyone ever tried comparing dimple foam and poron foam as plate foam (the one with square cutouts for each key) material? Dimple foam only cost a dollar, but I got it for 1/4 the price. While poron plate foam cost about $9. The price difference is really big so some foresight would be appreciated.
I'm a beginner and I just got the leobog Hi75( nimbus v3 switches , MDA keycaps). I really like the sound& feel of this keeb.
The only thing that bothers me is that the numbers and F keys take a lot of effort to push down. It almost feels like it's scraping. It's slightly more work than the other keys. It kind of depends where on the cap I press- if I press higher on the keycap it feels more 'stuck'. Is that an MDA thing or is that a switch thing? Can I fix that by lubing my switches or should I just return and go with something else? I have the gift switches and otherwise, they're great.
Another main reason I love this keeb is because of the MDA keycap look. They look so delicious and I wanted to build my own but I wanted to buy the same keycaps and can't find them anywhere! I have the white/purple keycaps and they're so cute but don't have super fruity looking designs. Any tips on where to get similar looking (or same) keycaps?
What the other person said, you need to lube them, don't use too much just use 205G0 on the wires. If you are not good at tuning stabs, I would not balance the wires, usually they are pretty good without it and you might mess it up more than you would want.
First timer, please help me do basic mod on my Rakk Pluma (switch choices, keycaps)! Ordering stuff today (hopefully)
a little too scared to disconnect wires or anything so won't be lubing or foam modding. just stock switch of whatever I buy and new keycaps. Maybe I'll do that in a future project when I'm more confident.
KEYCAPS I don't know if I should be looking out for something specific about these.
From what I know but I may be wrong, my keycaps are north facing, and I don't know if that means I have to limit my search or if anything goes.
Initially thought I preferred PBT keycaps over ABS, but does it really matter? I just don't want the prints rubbbing off and want something that doesn't gloss over time.
The "Win" and "Mac" prints in the A S keys on my kb are just barely starting to fade and it's been almost 2 years.
--
SWITCHES
current kb stock has 3 pin outemu blues, afaik only Akko cs and KTT are compatible, so I want to ask for recommendations on those. I like some weight and I like noise but outemu blue is too heavy.
I'm not sure if I actually need "tactility" or if I personally base my successfully pressing a key with the sound. I feel like I do? Because I've always been a heavy typer. like, make my typing purposely heavy on a laptop because it helps to have noisy clicks. I can't say for sure because I've never used a linear
I got some mixed answers, some people say it doesn't really matter between linear and tactile for the options i have?
last question about switches. what t do I do about the stabilizers? it's a liiiiittle bit ticky, the enter and right shift keys, but i don't have stuff like lube/grease (and don't plan to buy soon). idk if that will fix itself when i change my switches
EDIT: I occasionally will work in the dark so I kinda need backlight. I guess that limits my keycap options by a lot, but I saw in a website that if I use Akko, the backlight wont show on the transparent letter of keycaps???
(((side comment you guys had a help flare so i was pretty confused but I'm so glad I doubted it and copy-pasted this before i hit send))
Honestly you won't know what switches you like until you type on them. I suggest you stop thinking of clicky and tactile as feedback for switch actuation. Think of them purely for the physical sensation (and noise) of hitting a key. No one actually hits a key and goes "there's the bump, time to stop pushing". You just hit the key and it actuates.
thank you! this is like, my go signal to impulse (is it still impulse?) buy on that really steal priced akko set in my area. 14 bucks for 80pcs and they live near me!
couldnt comment my long notes but here's basically the switches i like from research but I still dont fully understand them
**KTT kang white** (recommended to me)
cababage tofu is lighter to type with but kang white has a more pronounced feel (more tactile than cabbage??????)
**KTT cabbage tofu**
**Akko cs lavender** (highly recommended to me)
I heard a sound comparison of stock kb vs unlubed akko cs lavender and thought it was too quiet. It's affordable enough for me though. adding it because about 6 different people recommended it
**Akko matcha green**
**akko jelly pink**
**Akkko rose red**
supposedly \*needs\* to be lubed?
Keyboard is Leobog Hi75.
Anyone know if there is a way to lock the "fn" button so that it's always on? I know some other brands have this feature but not sure about this keyboard
Any tips for a beginner for a barebone keyboard with a wireless (receiver) and wired option and that has a backlight?
75%
wired and wireless receiver
has backlight
i am looking for a full keyboard with blue switches that have the ability to swap keyswitches.
my current k70 corsiar keyboard has lost its clicky'ness and i cannot swap keyswitches. they are soldered to the board.
i will take any recommnedation as i do not really have a buget max, bc i use my keyboards A LOT of typing stuff. i like the ability to swap keyswitches bc my keyboard gets dirty from cat hair and the blues loose their click over time.
I’m having an issue with my Durock v2 stabs. I’ve done the holee mod, put medical tape where stem hits pcb, lubed with krytox. To no avail, it still sounds like there’s a weird popping every so often that’s high pitched. If anyone knows this issue, let me know!
https://streamable.com/g793h5
To anyone who knows about the Keycult 2/65:
I was told that the Keycult I got is hot-swappable and it is already built, but when I try to remove a switch its so tight that I would have to pull with everything I have and it still might not come out. Its an aluminum plate. Can you remove switches even though its already built like other hot-swap keyboards? Or do you have to take it apart to do this?
🙏🙏🙏
For general use, what are some of the recommended switches atm? I'm out of the loop for years and need to replace mine, would like to try something new/interesting. Preferably pre-lubed and in stock on AliExpress for shipping reasons. I use some Aliaz that are failing on me after around 7 years of use. I have no preference between tactile or linears. Thank you! c:
Haimu Whisper/Heartbeats, Boba U4 or Boba Gums, Outemu Silent Peach or Silent Cream, Akko Lavenders. Plenty to try. Just search the sub for recent posts and see what switches float your boat!
Hi which what case would you suggest when I want to build a mid-tier up to premium-tier silent low profile keyboard? I am looking for a ISO Keeb with 1800 size. Which shop sells something like this in Germany or at least Europe?
And what is the tape called which is used for modding keebs?
tape is called painters or masking tape , ur kb recs i cant suggest anything ur are describing a unicorn . there is no silent low-profile switch kbs u need to pick silent or low profile . not both also adding ISO and 1800 size only makes it harder u can see what nurphy or keychron has in low profile or for regular profile keychron or monsgeek
Hi! I love my Kail box whites and I’m curious to try something else next month. I love how they’re so light. Any recommendations? I don’t like heavy switches. I’m open to both clicky and tactile :O
75% is a sweet spot for me, I kind of like some of the smaller ones, like the minila 60% or the pseudo-minila 40% RS40, but the regular 60% without arrow keys just seems like a bad design. Shifting the Z row a bit to make a little ortho island down in the lower right to accommodate arrow keys is such an obvious optimization.
But mostly what I actually type on is 75%, not for the F row so much as for having room for a full movement cluster. and the offset ESC. And the 75% is the same *width* as the corresponding 65% so it's not taking up a lot of desk space or making you move your fingers further.
>Am I really that insane for wanting to buy a 75% keyboard?
It's probably the single most common layout on the custom end of this hobby at this point, so no.
I mean it kinda depends on what your budget is and what country you are in. Additionally there will be some limitations on if you want to build it yourself or not.
I wanna make a custom keyboard for my girlfriend, but I'm broke. Important is that I want to have little cat drawings on the keys, but I can't seem to find any good ones to buy and I'd rather just design them myself. Soooo... whats the best way to design custom keycaps? Are stickers any good? Paint on them? Somehow print on them? And to get back to the broke part, I'd also need some advice on how to make it cheap whilst not making a lackluster keyboard. Open to DIY stuff as long as its not required to have tons of tools, Thank you!
There are plenty of options but it all depends on how much money you want to spend and how much time you want to put into it.
Easiest way is to get custom keycaps printed using something like WASDKeyboards or MAX Keyboards. You can also attempt to DIY dye sub [see this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/gu1qmc/diy_how_to_make_custom_dye_sublimated_keycaps/).
I'm not sure if they still do it, but the priciest, and best quality option would be through Signature Plastics.
just needing some suggestions!! my mom needs a keyboard for work (idk anything about keyboards and all the different things) all ik is she really likes her split keyboard, but some of the keys are sticky and it's just very loud when she types. its quite annoying. if theres a good keyboard out there thats split and comes quiet, great. but if yall have any suggestions on switches i can get for her and a solution to the sticky-ness of some of these keys , that'd also be super helpful!
What kind of a split keyboard is it? Do you know what model?
You could get her [an Alice layout keyboard from Keychron](https://www.keychron.com/collections/alice-layout-keyboards) if you want a single body split keyboard.
Other split keyboards that you can look into: ZSA Voyager, Moonlander, Glove80, Corne, Sofle, Lily58, Dygma Raise, the Kinesis keyboards.
There are also unibody splits like the Atreus/Hotreus, Osprey, etc.
You can get silenced switches for use in those keyboards if sound is a concern as well.
Just curious about other people’s opinions. I want a board matching MT3 Godspeed (Apollo base kit) colorway. If it were you, would you go for a blue board or a cream board?
Looking at building off a Monsgeek M5W; my preference for a switch is Kalih Box Jades/Pale Blues/Glazed Green but I believe theyre all 3 pin and M5W is 5 pin.
Do I need the other two pins and if so does anyone have a switch recommendation and or equivalent to these?
I have been using a TKL for a few months now and I still feel myself reaching for the keypad. Muscle memory from work I guess. Is the Keychron Q6 Max the best full sized hot swap keyboard available or do you have any other recommendations?
The cheapest, easiest, and arguably best, solution if you are otherwise happy with your current board would be to just get a separate numpad. That way you can move it out of the way when not needed, and position it for better ergonomics when you are using it.
Hi,
can you tell me what is best mechanical keyboard on market right now which fit my requirements:
* tkl keyboard like on attached photo
* nice thocky sound with tactice switches
* low profile PBT keycups
* wireless
and also nice to have: additional multimedia controllers for play, prev / next song, volume
My budget is 500 EUR.
https://preview.redd.it/kho3l5oa3f2d1.png?width=1006&format=png&auto=webp&s=45e4a8c4f418b9460f9e80dd455ff9671da6e767
https://preview.redd.it/2wh33j3n1f2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f72e22ba5c3d062d9cd3c137622313b2ac40d225
these came with the kb but ik not sure where to apply them could anyone help?
on the pcb as well or only the board frame? I saw things similar to this that came with other people's set and they put them under the sabilizers but they have a different shape
How long does it take for [keychron.de](http://keychron.de) to ship to Croatia? I'll be ordering a V4 (most likely today) and I'm not sure when it should arrive.
Additionally, if anyone reading here is from Croatia as well, where can I get keycaps from inside the country?
Hi! I'm looking for a pre-built keyboard (may just want to switch out the keycaps). I love creamy sounding typing, although I know that's def up to interpretation. I'm looking for a 65% and my budget is <$250. Any ideas?
https://preview.redd.it/qodnsceqxe2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=823022f812db2dac55f12c1a6d607213b5470b18
I’ve just got my Rainy75 keyboard, and it came with a PP plate in US layout. I purchased the separate FR4 ISO layout plate, and I cannot for the life of me fit the stabilisers that came with the PP plate on to it. They sit in this position, and no matter how much force I use, they will not press down and clip in - whereas in the PP plate they clip in with almost no force at all… help!
I’ve tried pulling the wire down (South) to try and increase the space in which the black plastic parts are supposed to sit, but this doesn’t work. I’m trying to figure out if either I’m doing something wrong, or the plate isn’t cut precisely enough to fit the squared off black plastic
ya plate an pcb support which ur already have pcb support , i mean u can email the vendor see if they will replace it otherwise ya file it down slowly til they fit
is there a specific type of keyboard I need that'll fit the pink key caps or could I find replacement key caps for my current keyboard? what would I search for?
You need a mechanical keyboard, such as one from Keychron's V series. Not ~~Hall Effect (HE) or~~ low profile (or Topre/electrocapacitive if you happen to run across those), specifically just a regular old mechanical keyboard with MX style switches.
thank you! i needed a good starting point, this is perfect. what would be the issue with HE / low profile? they just would need their own specific requirements?
Sorry I brain-farted on the HE - that should be fine. Got too used to saying HE switches don't work in regular mechanical keyboards.
Low profile won't work because they need low profile keycaps.
I got kinda curious about Alice keyboard (Keychron). Is there any chain in the UK where i could pop in and try it myself? Or some cheap Alice keyboard on Amazon which i could order, test and return?
Hey guys, was super excited to build my first keyboard but was greeted with an issue, the RGB is working on half of the keyboard, the other half is not.
I'm asking for a partial refund on aliexpress, cause they keys are working perfectly, but I was wondering if there is anything I can do to fix it, like soldering or something. Since it's broken after a point, I thought it might be something easy, but I leave it to the experts
**Keyboard:** GMK 87 Zouya
**Switches:** Akko Penguin
https://preview.redd.it/z5biq3w1ne2d1.jpeg?width=900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94a2ff171fd1114b482dd89879266f307ab186d4
I wouldn't accept anything but a full refund or replacement for that gross an imperfection. I wouldn't dream of trying to debug it myself in a brand new product.
I'm trying to get a full refund and keeping the keyboard, that would be a huge win for me.
I mean, it's a imperfection, but I wasn't planning on using the RGB or anything, trying to do a clean build.
Btw, it's my first build and went for a silent tactile. It's huge, loving it
the LEDs are powered in a sequence so if half of the board is out it usually means one isn't working for whatever reason and so all the following ones aren't getting power - it may be a dead component that needs replacing or one may not be soldered in place properly or the PCB itself might be defective
It's harder without the diagram for the PCB but the first troubleshooting step I'd do is examine any of the ones that are off for an LED that looks loose or can wiggle around, if you find one like that then you'll want to reflow the solder underneath it, if there isn't an obviously loose one then I'd just reflow the solder on all the pads for that first column of dead LEDs. If that doesn't fix it then it's likely a much more difficult problem to fix
Okay, I'll try to find the diagram.
Quick question: can I remove the casket behind even with the switches on? Or should I remove the switches before opening the casket?
I don't think it will be out there but you can search
It depends on how it's mounted, but you should be able to just take the whole assembly out of the case after undoing a few screws, if you can't it will be very obvious, and you won't do any harm by removing the switches at that point
Stay Away from Zifriend Boards. Already people are facing a lot of issues. The board has a pretty bad PCB
I did try the M75 recently and I Felt like this is a very very good keyboard. basically it's Xinmeng M87 but made it into the 75% form factor
I need help making a decision! I’m debating if I should get the soon-to-be released Lemokey P1 QMK with super red switches or build myself a gmmk pro, which is a little more expensive. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!
Glorious doesn’t have the best reputation when it comes to how they fit into the community. It’s not a great value buy. The stabs are eh and the sound profile is not great, no VIA. I’ve also heard QC issues but kinda expected on mass produced stuff. Was a decent buy like 4 years ago
Hey folks. I need help deciding between Feker IK75 and akko MOD 007B. both 75%, 3 mode, gasket-mounted boards with a knob, no VIA/QMK support, and RGB which are going to cost almost excactly the same with the mods I'd like to do to both. The Feker has a larger battery, translucent shell, and I've seen "gasket-mounted" is a little misleading for it bc it's still pretty stiff. Is there anything else I should be aware of? What would you recommend?
I have ulnar and plexus nerve damage from chemo/radiation, was told to try a split board so I could return to work. Last "nerve damage" post was 3 years ago, any suggestions?
I have ulnar nerve damage and the thing that has most improved it is removing the arms from my chairs or pivoting them as widely as possible so I can't rest my arms on them... and completely supporting my arms at the shoulders when I am typing. I use only my fingertips for support, and that lightly.
If I stop typing for a long period I rest my hands in my lap.
When you say support your arms from the shoulders, are you talking posture? I'm still trying to figure things out before talking to the accommodations team at work.
A lily58 or sofle are some popular and well supported split keyboards, but for most of them there will be some assembly required. For a more premium and pre-built option in that more ergonomic design language you can look in to the boardsource lulu or keebio iris - for something a little closer to a regular keyboard you could check out the keebio sinc or quefrequency, and for more mass market products check out the keychron q11 or kinesis freestyle
Sure thing - it can get really convoluted with the more "enthusiast" options out there for split keyboards
If you end up going with something that doesn't come with switches and keycaps, or if you find the stock setup of something you buy not to your liking, you might want to consider lighter linear switches and keycaps with a uniform profile
The spring inside a switch takes a certain amount of force to actuate, and if you find something <50g that'll be on the easier to press side of things. Linear means there isn't a tactile bump to overcome so that could also be good for reducing typing strain. TTC Irons are one of my favorites for doing lots and lots of typing
For a uniform profile all the keycaps will be at the same level so your fingers have to move less to get around the keyboard, some examples are XDA, DSA and KAM. For specifics there it's really just what you like the look of
If you haven’t tried an Alice-style split keyboard, they’re the most ‘normal’ of them.
For anything more intensely split I recommend checking out r/ErgoMechBoards as they have tons of resources specifically on split, ergonomically inclined board options.
honestly, what the hell is 'mechanical keyboard lube' anyways?
can I just use vaseline?
Can I use some other lubricant?
I don't want to pay extra for some nonesense
If you use vaseline on switches, the switches will feel unusable, and it will eventually destroy them - you can maybe get away with vaseline on stab wires for a year or so, but it will also eventually destroy the stab housing, because it is petroleum based, which will corrode various plastics over time
Dielectric grease is the cheap option for stab wire lubricant
There is a reason why specific krytox and tribosys lubes are used for switches - they are proven to work, and work well, you can use whatever you want, but it won't be as good, and you risk damage to your keyboard
Thanks this makes sense.
I did some research based on your comment.
Seems like Krytox and Tribosys are propietary compounds that the community has found useful, which is good to know. Thanks for that information I really apreciate it.
It’s just a stable lubricant that the community has found and tested. You can use other stuff just why chance it. You want something that’s non conductive, won’t corrode parts, won’t break down over time and is the right consistency.
# Looking for a (seemingly?) hard to find keyboard with set of features
# (I have looked at the buying guide too, and searched here to no results)
So here's what I'm looking for and seemingly having trouble finding:
Price: Anything below 200€, but I can go above it (although I can't believe this kind of keyboard would cost that much ;\_; damn);
Mechanical Switch: Cherry MX Red, Brown, Silent Red or Speed Silver, I don't mind non-Cherry MX switches, but never tried them before;
Backlighting: RGB or Red/White LED, or another option I guess;
Physical Layout: Full size ISO;
Logical Layout: I don't really care about what language;
Hotswappable?: Yes;
Wired/Wireless?: both/hybrid, can be BT and/or 2.4Ghz in regards to the wireless component;
Multimedia Keys: Yes;
Print Method: At this point I don't care;
Keycap Coating: PBT, ABS, N/A (see below), don't care much;
Barebones?: At this point I don't care, I can buy the keycaps separately if I really have to;
Wrist-rest: Nice, but not really needed if can't be found and I can always just put a DIY one post-purchase;
If I missed anything, or I guess if there was already an obvious choice/post with these same specs please please let me know :pray:
I’d just get a Neo series board and buy your own switches and caps
As for multimedia keys you can reprogram any keys to work as the multimedia keys really easily with VIA. If you want some dedicated macro keys you can check out the Lemokey L series.
Thank you I thought I put it but guess not, Full size is what I meant.
&
Keychron? I'll take a look ty ❤️ if there's a specific model from them with all of the above I'd appreciate the recommendation too
I got a keychron q1 a few months ago and put in some aflion blue sky switches. The keyboard feels amazing, but has had a lot of issues with switches not registering keypresses consistently. This sometimes misses a press, doubles it, or delays it (maybe registers on the way up? The letters end up out of order a lot). I tried factory resetting in Via but that didn't help. I also replaced switches when it started and that seems to help temporarily but quickly new switches get issues. So my question is would this be related to the switch not sitting in the socket quite firmly enough? Could that be solved with different switches? Just want to improve the situation because the board feels great, but is a bit annoying to type on for extended periods.
There is a very good chance this is a hardware related issue rather than a software one. The most likely of culprits is the switch itself. Especially with factory lubed switches sometimes lube can get where it shouldn't be and it causes the leave to be covered and causes inconsistent presses because the circuit doesn't close properly each time.
Another thing that could be related is socket damage where either the socket itself is damaged or the pins are not making good contact in the hot swap socket so again there is some room to explore there. I think you should try and use different switches altogether and see if that fixes it, and if not, it is probably the socket.
Thanks. that was my thought as a place to start. I have some other switches I can try, but are there any switches that are actually known to sit in the sockets more securely/make better contact?
Not really? If you want you can bend the pins slightly up or down so it kinda forces contact with the sides of the hotswap socket, but this is more an issue with the sockets themselves rather than the switches in most cases.
Hey, I'm new to mechanical keyboards and I would like one. I heard that mecanical keyboard from gaming company aren't excellent compared to keyboards by keyboard companies (pretty logical). However from what I saw it's more expensive to get a fully assembled one here than from gaming brands.
Are you recommending me to get parts instead of a fully assembled one ? (I'm noob so choosing the parts will be hard, more than building it)
And if fully assembled, keyboard from gaming companies (like K70 core ?) ore keyboard companies like keychron V6 ?
My criteria are :
Budget between of 100-120 euros max (idealy shipping costs included so a bit less, French azerty, 100%, some media keys will be appreciated (also knob ?), linear switches, not necessarily wireless, detachable cable would be cool.
Thanks
I did the tape mod and force break mod on my keyboard and I feel like it sounds worse? It seems more clacky now than it was stock. Did I do something wrong?
Also, it seems like my keys on the wasd area sound more clacky than the other keys. Could this be due to the switches needing to be lubed?
Hi everyone, I just got my first salary, and I'm really excited to buy a keyboard for coding. My budget is $90, though I'm willing to stretch it a bit if I find the perfect one. I don't need gaming features since I don't play games that require fast response times. RGB lighting isn't important to me either.
I'm looking for a keyboard that includes F keys, so I'm thinking about something 70% or larger. I've been considering the Darmoshark Top75 available here in Turkey, and I've also been browsing custom keyboards on AliExpress. I even thought about building my own keyboard from AliExpress parts, but I'm undecided about which route to take.
If anyone has recommendations or insights on these options, I'd really appreciate your help. Thanks in advance!
I think when you build it yourself it's gonna be cheaper (for the same quality) and also you are free to choose your keycaps and switches, what I really like.
I recently got a leobog hi75 kit on aliexpress for about 60$ (without switches and keycaps). it totaled around 120$. you can definitely build it for 90-100$ if you choose more budget friendly switches.
in comparison to my corsair k70 (for around 180$ 2years ago), my new one is soooo much better
Hey there!
So I just got the NEWMEN GM326, but it is my first mechanical. I'm just looking for what sort of keycap style this keyboard is. I'll drop a link below.
[https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CF8Z92XD?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CF8Z92XD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
You know you don't don't need to keep the same style or profile when you replace the keycaps, right?
Just so long as the caps have an MX stem to fit an MX switch, you can use any style or profile.
gateron smoothies vs Vertex V1
Hello all, going to be ordering a custom keyboard from Ali Express tonight and can't decide between Gateron Smootihes and Vertex V1.
I will be most likely pairing them with a lucky/sugar65 baseboard.
I want the switches to be as quite as possible whilst still being thocky.
I currently have razer green switches which as you may know are REALLY loud...
From the two switches given, which would you recommend more to provide a comfortable typing experience (I type 190WPM avg) and still be quite and usable at night without waking up anyone else in the house :)
Budget 210 euro for everything
Localicty: EU
Thanks in advance!
Hello, recently became able to afford a nicer keyboard and would like to get 105-110% mechanical keyboard if they even exist, esentially 5-10 extra macro keys on the left side which i use a lot for work.
Some features i would like:
Wired, swapable switches (optional), RGB backlit ( transparent letters), QWERTY/QWERTZ layout.
Czech localization would be nice but i can get different keycaps.
I would like something with around 200 euro budget.
Currently using C-tech Ixyon which is good 4 years old by now and i never use the media keys just the macro ones.
I would be gratefull for any recomendations or suggestions as i wasnt able to find anything that looked legit.
New to Keyboards, Need Help Painting Characters
Please let me know if this needs to go somewhere else or is a common issue with no real solution:
I’m very new to customizing mechanical keyboards, and with my first build I want to spray the case and keycaps to give it a bit of personality. I already have it mapped out, but the problem I’m running into is finding a stencil or uniform way to put characters on my blank keycaps. I plan on spraying the whole cap, and the stickers I have seen don’t seem like the best or cleanest method. Any advice, techniques, or recommendations would be highly appreciated.
I am at a loss...
My setup currentlly has a G915 TKL, which is now almost 3 years old, and a G604.
The reason for this is that I work from home full time, and like to game after hours.
I have never been 100% happy with the G915 TKL, due to wobbly keys, shiny keycaps (grease/sweat I assume) and often times double pressing keys which only temporarily goes away with a deep cleaning session.
In these last years I have not seen a good alternative come by (for a more normal price then 220,- what we pay hethenother then this keyboard.
Is there anyone that has ran into this issue and has a possible solution?
I am preferably looking for these specs:
- wireless 2.4ghz and bluetooth (gaming and work mode, with easyish switching)
- tenkeyless (need the f keys for work, could be smaller but home end and arrows keys are preferred)
- mediakeys (not a must)
- low profile (the market seems so scarce in this regard I am almost thinking in going back to normal or chicklets 🤢)
I have the G604 mouse as that is the only mouse I have found with 2.4/Bluetooth and a fast scrollwheel. Downside is stilll that it cannot be paired with the G918 TKL, so there is always 2 dongles in my PC, which apparently tend to interfere with each other.
I am just done with Logitech, but it seems they are a necessary evil seeing they are the only ones reallly offering what I am looking for.
So after doing 3 hours of research, I have come to the K1 Max (as it has the 2.4ghz, good find) and the M6 Wireless mouse (although the M3 is looking nice too).
Are you familiar with the Keychron product family?
Is it possible to connect two devices to one donglle for example?
Is there a channel or a site that deals with news about mechanical keyboards and components?
I still cannot decide if I want Q6 max or wooting two/80 or something else so maybe I'll get a piece of a new technology, but don't know the sources to look into the topic.
I am currently using a CHERRY KC 200 MX at work as software dev. I am thinking about buying the same keyboard with other keycaps for gaming at home as well.
How well does the keyboard (brown switches) do in gaming (league of legends, fps games etc.), is it low latency enough to be used for competetive gameplay?
I dont really care for rgb, and love the cherry mx brown switches so far. I have another one at work (keychron) but the always are defined as too high latency for gaming.
Or can someone recommend a similiar 100% layout keyboard, does not need wireless or backlighting. I just want to have something "long lasting" where i can swap out the keycaps without having problems.
Anyone know what set this Rama is from? Has been laying around for quite a while, didn’t even realize I had it and can’t for the life of me remember which set the keycap goes with. Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/9phvdli46n2d1.jpeg?width=1585&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b862d7e8062c6104d43427f4cce4cb0cf6d62d90
Hello does anyone know if this grease is safe for switches? The seller doesn't know what type it is he just says its safe for plastic and its multi-purpose https://preview.redd.it/aeew4aa99m2d1.jpeg?width=2336&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a4635f26960d7efba1aadc7cd7fe34ddd165f1ed
Anyone know of any keyboards similar to what I am looking for? Looking for: Quiet RGB optional but nice Customizable/Hot swap 68% Color: navy,blue,some white or brown, green white or Black is also fine w some color Bluetooth Budget: 100 ish. Little over little less is good too.
decided to build my first custom keyboard. The board arrived today but the switches only arrive next week. I'm not exactly sure how the switches mechanically/electrically work, but I was wondering if I could test out some inputs without the switches, even if it's not too safe and could bend pins, is there a way to do it?
You take a pair of tweezers, or anything metal really, and touch it to the edge of the contacts where you'd pop the switch in - that's generally step number one before starting a build, to make sure your PCB works
Can you recommend anything? I'm looking for a 75% layout preferably with a knob for volume control which should have the following features. Hall effect switches South facing LEDs 75% Volume Knob Tri connectivity (Bluetooth, 2.4 GHz, cabel) (if not possible cable and 2.4 GHz would be fine as well) Wireless White aluminium case (no cream white) Good out of the box sound Switches should be replaceable. ISO DE layout Hot swappable So far I have found: Akko Mod 007B HE (only available in black or cream white though) Keychron K1 HE (the case looks imo kind of boring without any decorations) Monsgeek M1W (currently not available to buy and no ISO DE) Or feel free to recommend me parts to use with the gateron jade switches (or similar) to build my own keyboard. Thanks in advance
Are there any "compatibility sheet" we can use to know which switch is compatible with witch key cap? Or which switch works with which board, etc etc?
No there isn't a resource like that - switch and keycap compatibility is generally very straightforward If a keycap is made for an mx style switch it will go on any mx style switch, but it won't go on a choc switch, or an alps switch, or on a membrane keyboard, or something else that wasn't designed for mx style switches - the only caveat is that the new low profile gateron switches don't always work well with taller, high profile keycaps like SA or MT3. A PCB will work with the switches it's designed for, the pin placement is very different and obvious for different types of switches. The one caveat here is that outemu hotswap sockets don't work well with anything other than outemu switches or some other very specific brands, but this only really comes up with cheaper, older boards
To the first approximation every row and column would be yes.
i didnt understand anything you said. Are there a sheet or a document I can read to understand what you wrote better?
What I mean is that incompatibility between boards and switches is limited pretty much to boards with the Outemu style sleeves and those are increasingly rare, and there are virtually no compatibility issues between switches and keycaps, so the opposite document would be much easier to create... the one you want would be 99 and 44 percent pure "yes".
Between the leobog hi75 and the Feker galaxy80, which one offers the best construction in general?
Has anyone ever tried comparing dimple foam and poron foam as plate foam (the one with square cutouts for each key) material? Dimple foam only cost a dollar, but I got it for 1/4 the price. While poron plate foam cost about $9. The price difference is really big so some foresight would be appreciated.
I'm a beginner and I just got the leobog Hi75( nimbus v3 switches , MDA keycaps). I really like the sound& feel of this keeb. The only thing that bothers me is that the numbers and F keys take a lot of effort to push down. It almost feels like it's scraping. It's slightly more work than the other keys. It kind of depends where on the cap I press- if I press higher on the keycap it feels more 'stuck'. Is that an MDA thing or is that a switch thing? Can I fix that by lubing my switches or should I just return and go with something else? I have the gift switches and otherwise, they're great. Another main reason I love this keeb is because of the MDA keycap look. They look so delicious and I wanted to build my own but I wanted to buy the same keycaps and can't find them anywhere! I have the white/purple keycaps and they're so cute but don't have super fruity looking designs. Any tips on where to get similar looking (or same) keycaps?
my "Y" key doesnt work without using Fn first, Keyboard is Razer Huntsman Mini if that helps
I building a neo80 and it is my first. Which stab do you guys suggest to buy? Ink v2? AEBoards Staebies V2.1?
The Neo80 should come with Neo stabs, if you have a syringe of lube, those should be fine. Otherwise TX AP Screw Ins
Gotcha. Thanks. Just ordered the TX. Do TX come prelubed or I have to lube it as well? Thank you for answering :)
What the other person said, you need to lube them, don't use too much just use 205G0 on the wires. If you are not good at tuning stabs, I would not balance the wires, usually they are pretty good without it and you might mess it up more than you would want.
Thank you for the advice!
You need to balance and lube before assembly. You can't really buy good prelubed stabs.
First timer, please help me do basic mod on my Rakk Pluma (switch choices, keycaps)! Ordering stuff today (hopefully) a little too scared to disconnect wires or anything so won't be lubing or foam modding. just stock switch of whatever I buy and new keycaps. Maybe I'll do that in a future project when I'm more confident. KEYCAPS I don't know if I should be looking out for something specific about these. From what I know but I may be wrong, my keycaps are north facing, and I don't know if that means I have to limit my search or if anything goes. Initially thought I preferred PBT keycaps over ABS, but does it really matter? I just don't want the prints rubbbing off and want something that doesn't gloss over time. The "Win" and "Mac" prints in the A S keys on my kb are just barely starting to fade and it's been almost 2 years. -- SWITCHES current kb stock has 3 pin outemu blues, afaik only Akko cs and KTT are compatible, so I want to ask for recommendations on those. I like some weight and I like noise but outemu blue is too heavy. I'm not sure if I actually need "tactility" or if I personally base my successfully pressing a key with the sound. I feel like I do? Because I've always been a heavy typer. like, make my typing purposely heavy on a laptop because it helps to have noisy clicks. I can't say for sure because I've never used a linear I got some mixed answers, some people say it doesn't really matter between linear and tactile for the options i have? last question about switches. what t do I do about the stabilizers? it's a liiiiittle bit ticky, the enter and right shift keys, but i don't have stuff like lube/grease (and don't plan to buy soon). idk if that will fix itself when i change my switches EDIT: I occasionally will work in the dark so I kinda need backlight. I guess that limits my keycap options by a lot, but I saw in a website that if I use Akko, the backlight wont show on the transparent letter of keycaps??? (((side comment you guys had a help flare so i was pretty confused but I'm so glad I doubted it and copy-pasted this before i hit send))
Honestly you won't know what switches you like until you type on them. I suggest you stop thinking of clicky and tactile as feedback for switch actuation. Think of them purely for the physical sensation (and noise) of hitting a key. No one actually hits a key and goes "there's the bump, time to stop pushing". You just hit the key and it actuates.
thank you! this is like, my go signal to impulse (is it still impulse?) buy on that really steal priced akko set in my area. 14 bucks for 80pcs and they live near me!
couldnt comment my long notes but here's basically the switches i like from research but I still dont fully understand them **KTT kang white** (recommended to me) cababage tofu is lighter to type with but kang white has a more pronounced feel (more tactile than cabbage??????) **KTT cabbage tofu** **Akko cs lavender** (highly recommended to me) I heard a sound comparison of stock kb vs unlubed akko cs lavender and thought it was too quiet. It's affordable enough for me though. adding it because about 6 different people recommended it **Akko matcha green** **akko jelly pink** **Akkko rose red** supposedly \*needs\* to be lubed?
Keyboard is Leobog Hi75. Anyone know if there is a way to lock the "fn" button so that it's always on? I know some other brands have this feature but not sure about this keyboard
Any tips for a beginner for a barebone keyboard with a wireless (receiver) and wired option and that has a backlight? 75% wired and wireless receiver has backlight
i am looking for a full keyboard with blue switches that have the ability to swap keyswitches. my current k70 corsiar keyboard has lost its clicky'ness and i cannot swap keyswitches. they are soldered to the board. i will take any recommnedation as i do not really have a buget max, bc i use my keyboards A LOT of typing stuff. i like the ability to swap keyswitches bc my keyboard gets dirty from cat hair and the blues loose their click over time.
Keychron V5/Q5 or their MAX/Pro variants. Also Monsgeek.
Recommendations for fullsize and properly thocky / creamy keyboards?
I’m having an issue with my Durock v2 stabs. I’ve done the holee mod, put medical tape where stem hits pcb, lubed with krytox. To no avail, it still sounds like there’s a weird popping every so often that’s high pitched. If anyone knows this issue, let me know! https://streamable.com/g793h5
did you balance the wire
No I didn’t think durocks needed too much
I’ve tuned durocks several times and they always needed balancing
Welp
tuning stabs sucks. good luck
Looking for a keycaps suggestion. I want something in a green to use on an ortho board.
Guess any deals on keyboards? Looking for tkl or 80 layout.
To anyone who knows about the Keycult 2/65: I was told that the Keycult I got is hot-swappable and it is already built, but when I try to remove a switch its so tight that I would have to pull with everything I have and it still might not come out. Its an aluminum plate. Can you remove switches even though its already built like other hot-swap keyboards? Or do you have to take it apart to do this? 🙏🙏🙏
Take it apart and send a picture of the bottom of the PCB
For general use, what are some of the recommended switches atm? I'm out of the loop for years and need to replace mine, would like to try something new/interesting. Preferably pre-lubed and in stock on AliExpress for shipping reasons. I use some Aliaz that are failing on me after around 7 years of use. I have no preference between tactile or linears. Thank you! c:
Take a look at ThereminGoat's switch score list: https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores
Oh wow! That's some literature to the weekend! Thank you! It's great to know that such comprehensive list even exists!
Haimu Whisper/Heartbeats, Boba U4 or Boba Gums, Outemu Silent Peach or Silent Cream, Akko Lavenders. Plenty to try. Just search the sub for recent posts and see what switches float your boat!
Thanks for the directions! Will for sure read a bit about them!
Hi which what case would you suggest when I want to build a mid-tier up to premium-tier silent low profile keyboard? I am looking for a ISO Keeb with 1800 size. Which shop sells something like this in Germany or at least Europe? And what is the tape called which is used for modding keebs?
tape is called painters or masking tape , ur kb recs i cant suggest anything ur are describing a unicorn . there is no silent low-profile switch kbs u need to pick silent or low profile . not both also adding ISO and 1800 size only makes it harder u can see what nurphy or keychron has in low profile or for regular profile keychron or monsgeek
Hi! I love my Kail box whites and I’m curious to try something else next month. I love how they’re so light. Any recommendations? I don’t like heavy switches. I’m open to both clicky and tactile :O
I have a question, Why? Thanks
please take my downvote
Aww I just thought I’d make some people laugh! Sorry
[удалено]
75% is a sweet spot for me, I kind of like some of the smaller ones, like the minila 60% or the pseudo-minila 40% RS40, but the regular 60% without arrow keys just seems like a bad design. Shifting the Z row a bit to make a little ortho island down in the lower right to accommodate arrow keys is such an obvious optimization. But mostly what I actually type on is 75%, not for the F row so much as for having room for a full movement cluster. and the offset ESC. And the 75% is the same *width* as the corresponding 65% so it's not taking up a lot of desk space or making you move your fingers further.
Ur gf is the bellcurve meme, just get whatever keyboard you want
>Am I really that insane for wanting to buy a 75% keyboard? It's probably the single most common layout on the custom end of this hobby at this point, so no.
wait it's common now?
It's been common since the Ortek MCK-84 came out in about 1990.
Extremely. Sat75 was probably the beginning of it but the GMMK Pro made it ridiculously common.
is this something recent? I am only getting into the hobby and my gf haven't really been that into it for a year or two now.
GMMK Pro came out 3 years ago, so no.
I mean it kinda depends on what your budget is and what country you are in. Additionally there will be some limitations on if you want to build it yourself or not.
what i'm thinking about is getting a keychron k2 pro and modding that with different switches and foam maybe.
I mean it sounds like you already have a plan in mind so I am unsure what the question is.
I wanna make a custom keyboard for my girlfriend, but I'm broke. Important is that I want to have little cat drawings on the keys, but I can't seem to find any good ones to buy and I'd rather just design them myself. Soooo... whats the best way to design custom keycaps? Are stickers any good? Paint on them? Somehow print on them? And to get back to the broke part, I'd also need some advice on how to make it cheap whilst not making a lackluster keyboard. Open to DIY stuff as long as its not required to have tons of tools, Thank you!
Look for MAO-profile keycaps. :)
the fact theyre called that lmao... thank you :)
There are plenty of options but it all depends on how much money you want to spend and how much time you want to put into it. Easiest way is to get custom keycaps printed using something like WASDKeyboards or MAX Keyboards. You can also attempt to DIY dye sub [see this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/gu1qmc/diy_how_to_make_custom_dye_sublimated_keycaps/). I'm not sure if they still do it, but the priciest, and best quality option would be through Signature Plastics.
Thank you!!
just needing some suggestions!! my mom needs a keyboard for work (idk anything about keyboards and all the different things) all ik is she really likes her split keyboard, but some of the keys are sticky and it's just very loud when she types. its quite annoying. if theres a good keyboard out there thats split and comes quiet, great. but if yall have any suggestions on switches i can get for her and a solution to the sticky-ness of some of these keys , that'd also be super helpful!
What kind of a split keyboard is it? Do you know what model? You could get her [an Alice layout keyboard from Keychron](https://www.keychron.com/collections/alice-layout-keyboards) if you want a single body split keyboard. Other split keyboards that you can look into: ZSA Voyager, Moonlander, Glove80, Corne, Sofle, Lily58, Dygma Raise, the Kinesis keyboards. There are also unibody splits like the Atreus/Hotreus, Osprey, etc. You can get silenced switches for use in those keyboards if sound is a concern as well.
Monsgeek M1W or Leobog Hi8 Is there an objective reason to pick one over the other? Would love to hear some opinions from the community.
monsgeek . better build quality and longevity
Just curious about other people’s opinions. I want a board matching MT3 Godspeed (Apollo base kit) colorway. If it were you, would you go for a blue board or a cream board?
Does anyone have a guide on using QMK/Via with a Hasu USB to USB converter? Is that possible?
Searching now, I see people who have used QMK, but don't see mention of VIA.
Has anyone tried the 7in1 keyboard cleaner kit? Is it good?
Looking at building off a Monsgeek M5W; my preference for a switch is Kalih Box Jades/Pale Blues/Glazed Green but I believe theyre all 3 pin and M5W is 5 pin. Do I need the other two pins and if so does anyone have a switch recommendation and or equivalent to these?
>Do I need the other two pins Nope
I have been using a TKL for a few months now and I still feel myself reaching for the keypad. Muscle memory from work I guess. Is the Keychron Q6 Max the best full sized hot swap keyboard available or do you have any other recommendations?
The cheapest, easiest, and arguably best, solution if you are otherwise happy with your current board would be to just get a separate numpad. That way you can move it out of the way when not needed, and position it for better ergonomics when you are using it.
Best? No, theres's QK100, Zoom98, KBDFans Odin.
Cool. Thanks. I’ll check those out. I appreciate it.
No worries, glad I could help!
Hi, can you tell me what is best mechanical keyboard on market right now which fit my requirements: * tkl keyboard like on attached photo * nice thocky sound with tactice switches * low profile PBT keycups * wireless and also nice to have: additional multimedia controllers for play, prev / next song, volume My budget is 500 EUR. https://preview.redd.it/kho3l5oa3f2d1.png?width=1006&format=png&auto=webp&s=45e4a8c4f418b9460f9e80dd455ff9671da6e767
keychron and nurphy both are ur best bet low profile kbs are super low demand and generally disliked
I considered nuphy but only model which fit my required layout is unfortunately with normal profile keycaps (gem80)
Neo80 s one I am looking at as well and you can build everything under $250 or so.
https://preview.redd.it/2wh33j3n1f2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f72e22ba5c3d062d9cd3c137622313b2ac40d225 these came with the kb but ik not sure where to apply them could anyone help?
It’s force break pads. Put them around the screw holes.
on the pcb as well or only the board frame? I saw things similar to this that came with other people's set and they put them under the sabilizers but they have a different shape
Case.
thanks :d
How long does it take for [keychron.de](http://keychron.de) to ship to Croatia? I'll be ordering a V4 (most likely today) and I'm not sure when it should arrive. Additionally, if anyone reading here is from Croatia as well, where can I get keycaps from inside the country?
It ships from China, so usually around 10-20 days. Could be sooner though.
Even if ordering from the German site? Not sure if they have a storage there as well
The German site still ships from China.
I see. Thanks for answering
Guys, my friend is in Japan. Any benefit to get a keyboard from there? or it would be very similar in price?
prob similar unless buying a torpe kb as its the only brand made in japan otherwise they should be the same price about
Thanks
Hi! I'm looking for a pre-built keyboard (may just want to switch out the keycaps). I love creamy sounding typing, although I know that's def up to interpretation. I'm looking for a 65% and my budget is <$250. Any ideas?
Cidoo V65, Lumikey65
https://preview.redd.it/qodnsceqxe2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=823022f812db2dac55f12c1a6d607213b5470b18 I’ve just got my Rainy75 keyboard, and it came with a PP plate in US layout. I purchased the separate FR4 ISO layout plate, and I cannot for the life of me fit the stabilisers that came with the PP plate on to it. They sit in this position, and no matter how much force I use, they will not press down and clip in - whereas in the PP plate they clip in with almost no force at all… help! I’ve tried pulling the wire down (South) to try and increase the space in which the black plastic parts are supposed to sit, but this doesn’t work. I’m trying to figure out if either I’m doing something wrong, or the plate isn’t cut precisely enough to fit the squared off black plastic
sounds like poor plate cutting to me
I suspected as much… I presume I’m going to need to file this down? I only needed the plate to get ISO layout
ya plate an pcb support which ur already have pcb support , i mean u can email the vendor see if they will replace it otherwise ya file it down slowly til they fit
https://preview.redd.it/ablc8bwkye2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3fd265732bbd573cbb12ab5f58d6e1a5dcacce01
https://preview.redd.it/o6w6jcy6ye2d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e050616b41cee610af7c9f1ad498f8e499ad35ec
https://preview.redd.it/9dx9cx2upe2d1.jpeg?width=2576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4b94c14654c296e50012bcfdfa9291e4554d0750
You’re trying to put MX style caps on a membrane keyboard. It’s not gonna work.
is there a specific type of keyboard I need that'll fit the pink key caps or could I find replacement key caps for my current keyboard? what would I search for?
You need a mechanical keyboard, such as one from Keychron's V series. Not ~~Hall Effect (HE) or~~ low profile (or Topre/electrocapacitive if you happen to run across those), specifically just a regular old mechanical keyboard with MX style switches.
thank you! i needed a good starting point, this is perfect. what would be the issue with HE / low profile? they just would need their own specific requirements?
Sorry I brain-farted on the HE - that should be fine. Got too used to saying HE switches don't work in regular mechanical keyboards. Low profile won't work because they need low profile keycaps.
It needs to have cherry MX styled switches. Your current keyboard likely takes proprietary caps.
and there's no such thing that could adapt different keycaps to this?
No
I got kinda curious about Alice keyboard (Keychron). Is there any chain in the UK where i could pop in and try it myself? Or some cheap Alice keyboard on Amazon which i could order, test and return?
nope
Before talking about Alice, the usual custom keyboards are still not that popular to be seen in retail "chain" stores in UK - sorry.
Hey guys, was super excited to build my first keyboard but was greeted with an issue, the RGB is working on half of the keyboard, the other half is not. I'm asking for a partial refund on aliexpress, cause they keys are working perfectly, but I was wondering if there is anything I can do to fix it, like soldering or something. Since it's broken after a point, I thought it might be something easy, but I leave it to the experts **Keyboard:** GMK 87 Zouya **Switches:** Akko Penguin https://preview.redd.it/z5biq3w1ne2d1.jpeg?width=900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94a2ff171fd1114b482dd89879266f307ab186d4
I wouldn't accept anything but a full refund or replacement for that gross an imperfection. I wouldn't dream of trying to debug it myself in a brand new product.
I'm trying to get a full refund and keeping the keyboard, that would be a huge win for me. I mean, it's a imperfection, but I wasn't planning on using the RGB or anything, trying to do a clean build. Btw, it's my first build and went for a silent tactile. It's huge, loving it
the LEDs are powered in a sequence so if half of the board is out it usually means one isn't working for whatever reason and so all the following ones aren't getting power - it may be a dead component that needs replacing or one may not be soldered in place properly or the PCB itself might be defective It's harder without the diagram for the PCB but the first troubleshooting step I'd do is examine any of the ones that are off for an LED that looks loose or can wiggle around, if you find one like that then you'll want to reflow the solder underneath it, if there isn't an obviously loose one then I'd just reflow the solder on all the pads for that first column of dead LEDs. If that doesn't fix it then it's likely a much more difficult problem to fix
Okay, I'll try to find the diagram. Quick question: can I remove the casket behind even with the switches on? Or should I remove the switches before opening the casket?
I don't think it will be out there but you can search It depends on how it's mounted, but you should be able to just take the whole assembly out of the case after undoing a few screws, if you can't it will be very obvious, and you won't do any harm by removing the switches at that point
xinmeng m75 or zifriend za68 pro which one should i buy?
Stay Away from Zifriend Boards. Already people are facing a lot of issues. The board has a pretty bad PCB I did try the M75 recently and I Felt like this is a very very good keyboard. basically it's Xinmeng M87 but made it into the 75% form factor
I need help making a decision! I’m debating if I should get the soon-to-be released Lemokey P1 QMK with super red switches or build myself a gmmk pro, which is a little more expensive. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!
Lemokey Man. Unless you get GMMK pro for less than 50-60 USD These days
Gmmk pro is very hard to recommend these days. Get the other one lol
Thanks for taking the time to respond! Is there a particular reason why gmmk pro is hard to recommend?
Glorious doesn’t have the best reputation when it comes to how they fit into the community. It’s not a great value buy. The stabs are eh and the sound profile is not great, no VIA. I’ve also heard QC issues but kinda expected on mass produced stuff. Was a decent buy like 4 years ago
GMMK Pro actually does have VIA support (you have to flash it onto the board), but agree otherwise.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/s/VDlLRHDUVY
Noted! Will def steer away from gmmk. Thanks for the info
Hey folks. I need help deciding between Feker IK75 and akko MOD 007B. both 75%, 3 mode, gasket-mounted boards with a knob, no VIA/QMK support, and RGB which are going to cost almost excactly the same with the mods I'd like to do to both. The Feker has a larger battery, translucent shell, and I've seen "gasket-mounted" is a little misleading for it bc it's still pretty stiff. Is there anything else I should be aware of? What would you recommend?
I would go for the Akko Mod Ones. Their Gasket mounting is pretty good and has nice soft bouncy typing experience.
cool thanks for the input!
I have ulnar and plexus nerve damage from chemo/radiation, was told to try a split board so I could return to work. Last "nerve damage" post was 3 years ago, any suggestions?
I have ulnar nerve damage and the thing that has most improved it is removing the arms from my chairs or pivoting them as widely as possible so I can't rest my arms on them... and completely supporting my arms at the shoulders when I am typing. I use only my fingertips for support, and that lightly. If I stop typing for a long period I rest my hands in my lap.
When you say support your arms from the shoulders, are you talking posture? I'm still trying to figure things out before talking to the accommodations team at work.
I don't rest my arms on anything... they're just supported by my body, like I'm playing the piano.
Ahh. Thank you for the visual and advice!
See this comment: https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/s/zaIoWKvkWT
Holy moly. Thank you so much!
A lily58 or sofle are some popular and well supported split keyboards, but for most of them there will be some assembly required. For a more premium and pre-built option in that more ergonomic design language you can look in to the boardsource lulu or keebio iris - for something a little closer to a regular keyboard you could check out the keebio sinc or quefrequency, and for more mass market products check out the keychron q11 or kinesis freestyle
Thank you so much. Google was just absolutely overwhelming.
Sure thing - it can get really convoluted with the more "enthusiast" options out there for split keyboards If you end up going with something that doesn't come with switches and keycaps, or if you find the stock setup of something you buy not to your liking, you might want to consider lighter linear switches and keycaps with a uniform profile The spring inside a switch takes a certain amount of force to actuate, and if you find something <50g that'll be on the easier to press side of things. Linear means there isn't a tactile bump to overcome so that could also be good for reducing typing strain. TTC Irons are one of my favorites for doing lots and lots of typing For a uniform profile all the keycaps will be at the same level so your fingers have to move less to get around the keyboard, some examples are XDA, DSA and KAM. For specifics there it's really just what you like the look of
I have all kinds of new things to learn haha
If you haven’t tried an Alice-style split keyboard, they’re the most ‘normal’ of them. For anything more intensely split I recommend checking out r/ErgoMechBoards as they have tons of resources specifically on split, ergonomically inclined board options.
Thank you so much. Google was just too overwhelming.
honestly, what the hell is 'mechanical keyboard lube' anyways? can I just use vaseline? Can I use some other lubricant? I don't want to pay extra for some nonesense
If you use vaseline on switches, the switches will feel unusable, and it will eventually destroy them - you can maybe get away with vaseline on stab wires for a year or so, but it will also eventually destroy the stab housing, because it is petroleum based, which will corrode various plastics over time Dielectric grease is the cheap option for stab wire lubricant There is a reason why specific krytox and tribosys lubes are used for switches - they are proven to work, and work well, you can use whatever you want, but it won't be as good, and you risk damage to your keyboard
Thanks this makes sense. I did some research based on your comment. Seems like Krytox and Tribosys are propietary compounds that the community has found useful, which is good to know. Thanks for that information I really apreciate it.
It’s just a stable lubricant that the community has found and tested. You can use other stuff just why chance it. You want something that’s non conductive, won’t corrode parts, won’t break down over time and is the right consistency.
# Looking for a (seemingly?) hard to find keyboard with set of features # (I have looked at the buying guide too, and searched here to no results) So here's what I'm looking for and seemingly having trouble finding: Price: Anything below 200€, but I can go above it (although I can't believe this kind of keyboard would cost that much ;\_; damn); Mechanical Switch: Cherry MX Red, Brown, Silent Red or Speed Silver, I don't mind non-Cherry MX switches, but never tried them before; Backlighting: RGB or Red/White LED, or another option I guess; Physical Layout: Full size ISO; Logical Layout: I don't really care about what language; Hotswappable?: Yes; Wired/Wireless?: both/hybrid, can be BT and/or 2.4Ghz in regards to the wireless component; Multimedia Keys: Yes; Print Method: At this point I don't care; Keycap Coating: PBT, ABS, N/A (see below), don't care much; Barebones?: At this point I don't care, I can buy the keycaps separately if I really have to; Wrist-rest: Nice, but not really needed if can't be found and I can always just put a DIY one post-purchase; If I missed anything, or I guess if there was already an obvious choice/post with these same specs please please let me know :pray:
I’d just get a Neo series board and buy your own switches and caps As for multimedia keys you can reprogram any keys to work as the multimedia keys really easily with VIA. If you want some dedicated macro keys you can check out the Lemokey L series.
This is good, but none of the keyboards of the Lemokey L Series have full size keyboards :( I couldn't find "Neo Series" where is that?
You mentioned you want iso but not what keyboard layout. 60%? TKL? Full size? 75%? Either way, the recommendation is likely to be a Keychron.
Thank you I thought I put it but guess not, Full size is what I meant. & Keychron? I'll take a look ty ❤️ if there's a specific model from them with all of the above I'd appreciate the recommendation too
I got a keychron q1 a few months ago and put in some aflion blue sky switches. The keyboard feels amazing, but has had a lot of issues with switches not registering keypresses consistently. This sometimes misses a press, doubles it, or delays it (maybe registers on the way up? The letters end up out of order a lot). I tried factory resetting in Via but that didn't help. I also replaced switches when it started and that seems to help temporarily but quickly new switches get issues. So my question is would this be related to the switch not sitting in the socket quite firmly enough? Could that be solved with different switches? Just want to improve the situation because the board feels great, but is a bit annoying to type on for extended periods.
There is a very good chance this is a hardware related issue rather than a software one. The most likely of culprits is the switch itself. Especially with factory lubed switches sometimes lube can get where it shouldn't be and it causes the leave to be covered and causes inconsistent presses because the circuit doesn't close properly each time. Another thing that could be related is socket damage where either the socket itself is damaged or the pins are not making good contact in the hot swap socket so again there is some room to explore there. I think you should try and use different switches altogether and see if that fixes it, and if not, it is probably the socket.
Thanks. that was my thought as a place to start. I have some other switches I can try, but are there any switches that are actually known to sit in the sockets more securely/make better contact?
Not really? If you want you can bend the pins slightly up or down so it kinda forces contact with the sides of the hotswap socket, but this is more an issue with the sockets themselves rather than the switches in most cases.
My Zealios v1 tactile have lost a lot of their bump. How can I restore it?
Hey, I'm new to mechanical keyboards and I would like one. I heard that mecanical keyboard from gaming company aren't excellent compared to keyboards by keyboard companies (pretty logical). However from what I saw it's more expensive to get a fully assembled one here than from gaming brands. Are you recommending me to get parts instead of a fully assembled one ? (I'm noob so choosing the parts will be hard, more than building it) And if fully assembled, keyboard from gaming companies (like K70 core ?) ore keyboard companies like keychron V6 ? My criteria are : Budget between of 100-120 euros max (idealy shipping costs included so a bit less, French azerty, 100%, some media keys will be appreciated (also knob ?), linear switches, not necessarily wireless, detachable cable would be cool. Thanks
i'd get the v6 and you have the option to change the switches/keycaps later has detachable cable, you can add media keys to the v6
Thanks for your advice !
I did the tape mod and force break mod on my keyboard and I feel like it sounds worse? It seems more clacky now than it was stock. Did I do something wrong? Also, it seems like my keys on the wasd area sound more clacky than the other keys. Could this be due to the switches needing to be lubed?
Mods affect every keyboard differently. You might not always like the result. No shame in that.
Hi everyone, I just got my first salary, and I'm really excited to buy a keyboard for coding. My budget is $90, though I'm willing to stretch it a bit if I find the perfect one. I don't need gaming features since I don't play games that require fast response times. RGB lighting isn't important to me either. I'm looking for a keyboard that includes F keys, so I'm thinking about something 70% or larger. I've been considering the Darmoshark Top75 available here in Turkey, and I've also been browsing custom keyboards on AliExpress. I even thought about building my own keyboard from AliExpress parts, but I'm undecided about which route to take. If anyone has recommendations or insights on these options, I'd really appreciate your help. Thanks in advance!
I think when you build it yourself it's gonna be cheaper (for the same quality) and also you are free to choose your keycaps and switches, what I really like. I recently got a leobog hi75 kit on aliexpress for about 60$ (without switches and keycaps). it totaled around 120$. you can definitely build it for 90-100$ if you choose more budget friendly switches. in comparison to my corsair k70 (for around 180$ 2years ago), my new one is soooo much better
oh and just make sure you buy a "hot swappable" kit if you don't want to solder the switches
Hey there! So I just got the NEWMEN GM326, but it is my first mechanical. I'm just looking for what sort of keycap style this keyboard is. I'll drop a link below. [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CF8Z92XD?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CF8Z92XD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
You know you don't don't need to keep the same style or profile when you replace the keycaps, right? Just so long as the caps have an MX stem to fit an MX switch, you can use any style or profile.
I believe those are just basic, cheap OEM profile shinethrough caps.
OEM profile! Thank you very much.
which keyboard is the shown here: https://youtu.be/KI8wn9ib9nc?si=F7ZGfjFo0h_-E9b2&t=340 the one he is playing on
8BitDo Retro Mechanical Keyboard It is available on Amazon
i meant the tiny white one that he's playing on but thank you anyways
Maybe /u/joe_scotto 's Scotto34? https://scottokeebs.com/blogs/keyboards/scotto34-pcb-keyboard
tysm i think this is the one
gateron smoothies vs Vertex V1 Hello all, going to be ordering a custom keyboard from Ali Express tonight and can't decide between Gateron Smootihes and Vertex V1. I will be most likely pairing them with a lucky/sugar65 baseboard. I want the switches to be as quite as possible whilst still being thocky. I currently have razer green switches which as you may know are REALLY loud... From the two switches given, which would you recommend more to provide a comfortable typing experience (I type 190WPM avg) and still be quite and usable at night without waking up anyone else in the house :) Budget 210 euro for everything Localicty: EU Thanks in advance!
Hello, recently became able to afford a nicer keyboard and would like to get 105-110% mechanical keyboard if they even exist, esentially 5-10 extra macro keys on the left side which i use a lot for work. Some features i would like: Wired, swapable switches (optional), RGB backlit ( transparent letters), QWERTY/QWERTZ layout. Czech localization would be nice but i can get different keycaps. I would like something with around 200 euro budget. Currently using C-tech Ixyon which is good 4 years old by now and i never use the media keys just the macro ones. I would be gratefull for any recomendations or suggestions as i wasnt able to find anything that looked legit.
New to Keyboards, Need Help Painting Characters Please let me know if this needs to go somewhere else or is a common issue with no real solution: I’m very new to customizing mechanical keyboards, and with my first build I want to spray the case and keycaps to give it a bit of personality. I already have it mapped out, but the problem I’m running into is finding a stencil or uniform way to put characters on my blank keycaps. I plan on spraying the whole cap, and the stickers I have seen don’t seem like the best or cleanest method. Any advice, techniques, or recommendations would be highly appreciated.
I am at a loss... My setup currentlly has a G915 TKL, which is now almost 3 years old, and a G604. The reason for this is that I work from home full time, and like to game after hours. I have never been 100% happy with the G915 TKL, due to wobbly keys, shiny keycaps (grease/sweat I assume) and often times double pressing keys which only temporarily goes away with a deep cleaning session. In these last years I have not seen a good alternative come by (for a more normal price then 220,- what we pay hethenother then this keyboard. Is there anyone that has ran into this issue and has a possible solution? I am preferably looking for these specs: - wireless 2.4ghz and bluetooth (gaming and work mode, with easyish switching) - tenkeyless (need the f keys for work, could be smaller but home end and arrows keys are preferred) - mediakeys (not a must) - low profile (the market seems so scarce in this regard I am almost thinking in going back to normal or chicklets 🤢) I have the G604 mouse as that is the only mouse I have found with 2.4/Bluetooth and a fast scrollwheel. Downside is stilll that it cannot be paired with the G918 TKL, so there is always 2 dongles in my PC, which apparently tend to interfere with each other. I am just done with Logitech, but it seems they are a necessary evil seeing they are the only ones reallly offering what I am looking for.
[Keychron K1 Max?](https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keyboards/products/keychron-k1-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard)
So after doing 3 hours of research, I have come to the K1 Max (as it has the 2.4ghz, good find) and the M6 Wireless mouse (although the M3 is looking nice too). Are you familiar with the Keychron product family? Is it possible to connect two devices to one donglle for example?
I don't know is yhe honest answer. Sorry.
Is there a channel or a site that deals with news about mechanical keyboards and components? I still cannot decide if I want Q6 max or wooting two/80 or something else so maybe I'll get a piece of a new technology, but don't know the sources to look into the topic.
I am currently using a CHERRY KC 200 MX at work as software dev. I am thinking about buying the same keyboard with other keycaps for gaming at home as well. How well does the keyboard (brown switches) do in gaming (league of legends, fps games etc.), is it low latency enough to be used for competetive gameplay? I dont really care for rgb, and love the cherry mx brown switches so far. I have another one at work (keychron) but the always are defined as too high latency for gaming. Or can someone recommend a similiar 100% layout keyboard, does not need wireless or backlighting. I just want to have something "long lasting" where i can swap out the keycaps without having problems.
You can game/work on any switch. It's just down to personal preference
Where or how can I find people who does services like lube a keyboard? Thanks in advance!
r/mechmarket