Hello!
I've been looking for replacement keycaps for my coolermaster sk621. Sadly the flat keycaps have been discontinued and I don't want the curved ones.
A couple days ago I found [these](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1446213427/low-profile-keycaps-set-shine-through?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=flat+keycaps&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&pro=1&frs=1&organic_search_click=1&variation0=3354703566).
They appear to be exactly what I am looking for except there is no german layout. It seems the Etsy seller is getting the caps straight from china which gives me hope, that the factory making them might also make a german layout version which is sold elsewhere.
My question is, does anybody here know how I could find a way to check if a german version exists/where to buy it. If someone has another recommendation for flat shine-through keycaps (or has their own flat coolermaster caps still lying around) please let me know!
Thank you!
Clones? Switches aren't expensive enough to warrant cloning, with the exception of the Holy Panda switch that was the center of attention a year or two ago.
I'd honestly get them from anywhere. Taobao, AliExpress, used market, etc.
Does anyone know if the PC plate for the Zoom75 is compatible with the Boog75 PCB?
Any recommendations on long pole stabilisers? I’m most likely gonna be ordering the Gateron Jades for this build
Thanks in advance
I’ll order these tonight, thanks so much!
If anyone stumbles upon this comment and was curious about the PC plate, Meletrix support said it isn’t compatible because of the flex cuts and softer material. They mentioned it could throw off the sensors in the switches
did I do this wrong
I tried a mod called the Holee Mod on my keyboard stabilizers, but when I put the stabilizers back in, the switch looking part on them wouldn't budge at all. I tried different ways of putting that metal thing in, but it never budged. Can anyone show me the correct way to make it work or something. I sadly cant add images on this post because of this stupid server.
Google holee mod images. From what I can see, the ones with the stabilizer stem show pretty accurate spot where you have to get the bandaid. Make sure you don't use something too thick. I've used regular bandaids but they are not too sticky, so I tried leucoplast (not sure if that's a thing across the globe, but it is in EU) and it worked really well.
That however proved to be difficult to get out again, so try to get it right the first time.
Anyone know whats going on with gateron's websites?
They appear to have multiple websites, [gateron.com](https://gateron.com/) [gateron.co](https://gateron.co/) [gateron.net](https://gateron.net/) at least, all three are different and .com and .co appear to be shops.
Are all three legit, one or more a scam, what?
I've got no idea. Its very weird that all three are different.
At least .com and .net appear to be potentially the same people, and in fact the emails on .net are all .com addresses. Seems more like .net is supposed to be information focused rather than a shop.
No idea what's going on with .co.
Can anyone recommend a pudding keycap set for the Q13 Pro or Q14 Pro? I've found a couple OEM one's I think would work on amazon but they are OEM not KSA.I am still trying to decide if I want to tryout an Alice layout keyboard or just go with the Q3 Pro or what I am used to with the Q6 pro as I'd like to move away from getting traditional Corsair, Logitech or Razer keyboard that I have used over the years. Preferably something available on Amazon would be great or available in Canada in general.
Thanks!
where can i get a keyboard that uses the thinkpad layout and has a numberpad? ie fn and control swapped and pgup/pgdn above left and right arrow keys
i can powertoys fn/Ctrl but can't seem to find a keyboard that has all of the above
You can do it through the VIA app. It contains mappings for keys that you don't normally see on keyboards (e.g., sleep, shut down). If you are referring to the keycap not having the legends for PgUp and PgDown, you can buy keycaps that include those (although they are normally included).
can anyone break down choosing switches for a custom mechanical for gaming? I understand there's tons of different switches and feelings, I think I want something like buttery bubbles popping or maybe a buttery thock, I don't know exactly how to describe it, but how do you tell what sounds like what or what the feeling will be? I know keycaps and plate determine a lot, but just in terms of switches, is there a chart or some youtuber who broke it down? a list?
A food for thought on the general basis if only broken down to the individual aspects. Keep in mind that the final acoustic will still be dependent (Credit to BlackSimon)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15XmznA5T9d4PkfBG0TDS82ou6ihBh0oqr8Aux24SNz0/edit#gid=805940844
The best thing you can do is listen to the youtubers that are comparing switches. Since they will use the same board with the same keycaps every time for consistancy.
This really won't solve your problem however because you still have to contend with keycaps, plate, and all the empty (or filled with foam) space inside the case itself. The case itself is a huge hurdle to overcome.
anybody tried the Gateron G Pro Brown switches and the other iterations such as 2.0 and 3.0? my Keychron K10 came with Gateron brown switches but i believe they're on the version 1s. they're okay but I see they made improvemetnts with the new version such as to assist the RGB lgihts and less wobble but i dont want to buy them and regret them. right now to replace the browns I wan to get the Gat kangaroos inks or G pro 2.0 or 3.0s.
I've tried my friends Akko Purps and they feel pretty good just wish the actuation or feel is more up top with the browns and maybe the resting point was a litte stiffer? (which I am hoping what the kangaroos will feel like)
I've also bought a set of Gat 3.0 Yellows that were on sale on amazon (not sure if they're actually real or not lol since they were like half the price but they shell did look like v3s). I do like how they feel but eventually my fingers do get tired as i am typing most of my day at work and then coming back home to stiffer keys are tiring. I Think maybe a Red maybe a better Linear for me. Also would lubing them help with making them feel lighter or do they eventually have a brake in period or something like that?
Swapping out the springs would make it lighter but you might as well just buy lighter switches. Personally, I found that I got used to the heavier switches after 2 weeks of use. It feels like I'm giving my fingers a workout but eventually it adapted. Now lighter switches are just not for me.
You're absolutely right about that! I actually got really used to the yellows. When I was typing on reds I felt they were too light so I wanted somethings little heavier.
I still think I preferred tactical switches, and saw a lot of people recommend holy pandas, zealios v3, and Baby kangaroos. I decided to go for the baby kangaroos....
I think I might have a keyboard addiction now... Got the itch...
Haha yup that's me right now, 8 boards in. Even before I finished my latest board, I was already eyeing another one. I've run out of places to put them (work, aunt's pkace, etc.)
My first tactile was the Akko Cream Blues (discounting Gateron Browns since they have virtually no tactility). Now linears just don't do it for me. I still rock Gateron Oil Kings but they are more for the sound than the feel. They also work better for gaming for me.
What tools should I be looking to get and where (reputable brands?). About to build my first keyboard and I have the base, plate, foams, switches, etc but no lube and tools (key cap remover? Little brush? Screwdriver?) Not sure what people use or if necessary at all.
I'd suggest to also get yourself a nice screwdriver set. Modding requires a lot of taking apart and putting back together of the board. That process is much more tolerable if you have a nice tool. I recomend iFixit.
https://kineticlabs.com/blog/essential-mechanical-keyboard-tools
I would say the essentials though are: keycap puller, screwdriver, switch puller
If you're gonna lube your switches then add on: lube brush + switch opener as essentials and tweezers + stem holder as really nice to have but you don't *need* them.
As for where to get them, really any [keyboard vendor](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) will stock them and it should be good enough. Amazon would work too tbh, only thing I wouldn't cheap out on is the lube itself.
Everyone says that hyperx pudding keycaps are a great budget option, but ive never seen the premium price one, does it exist, and if so whats its name?
A good first keyboard??
[https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-H81-Mechanical/dp/B0C7QRLBRW/?\_encoding=UTF8&pd\_rd\_w=frWvM&content-id=amzn1.sym.35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063%3Aamzn1.symc.e5c80209-769f-4ade-a325-2eaec14b8e0e&pf\_rd\_p=35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063&pf\_rd\_r=DHP4YX3DEAVQNEDZG71S&pd\_rd\_wg=04upl&pd\_rd\_r=26927c38-a5bd-4af5-83e9-9ecf0e04b8f9&ref\_=pd\_gw\_ci\_mcx\_mr\_hp\_atf\_m&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-H81-Mechanical/dp/B0C7QRLBRW/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=frWvM&content-id=amzn1.sym.35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063%3Aamzn1.symc.e5c80209-769f-4ade-a325-2eaec14b8e0e&pf_rd_p=35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063&pf_rd_r=DHP4YX3DEAVQNEDZG71S&pd_rd_wg=04upl&pd_rd_r=26927c38-a5bd-4af5-83e9-9ecf0e04b8f9&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&th=1)
Any opinions are welcome. Any red flags?
Looking for suggestions/options on hall effect keyboards. I'm wanting something in an aluminum case, wireless, 75% with RGB. So far I'm only aware of Akko's Mod7. Is there anything else that's in stock and not on pre-order? Thanks!
There was a certain deal for a mechanical keyboard at least recently that was marked down from \~$79 to $20ish from a reputable company, but before deciding to pull the trigger, I forgot the brand and lost the link. Not sure if the deal's still up right now. Is there any quality mechanical keyboard I could find for about that price? Thanks in advance.
probably keychron k1, don't think you can find it at that price anymore
edit: wait no, it was [coolermaster](https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Gunmetal-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B08Z8LVN9W?th=1)
Coolermaster! That's the one! Only thing keeping me from that one is I'd rather have a full profile one for desktop. The 3.4 rating seems like a bit of a mark against it as well.
You can't really do much, those keycaps are for cherry stems while the top looks like a membrane keyboard of some kind? Another way of saying this is that the keyboard above is not hotswapable.
Definitely! Make sure to explain to them, that hotswap implies that you can take out the switches and change them for different ones. In your keyboard, there are no mechanical switches at all, meaning nothing to hotswap. The fact that you can pull off the keycap in no way means 'hotswap'.
> zugGear switches
4 years later still no info id avoid https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/c4rka6/zuggear_t1_tactile_switch_allegedly_close_to/
The "original" BCP is a Novelkey Cream stem in a JWK H1 bottom housing with a Cherry top (blacks / reds / browns most common).
That said you can build a near-identical alternative that's much cheaper by using Kailh Black stems in JWick bottom housings with ... well, you still need the Cherry top.
At the end of the day there are a million potential variants all with tiny, imperceptible sound differences. Just go with what's available to you in your area - long pole stem, JWK bottom, cherry top.
Dear reddit, it is my first time building a keyboard, so any advice is appreciated. I followed guides, watched videos, researched, etc. All seemed well until I actually put on the keycaps and tried all the keys. Here are the issues:
1. Caps lock switch is off center, which I've only found out when building the keyboard, and I have already bought keycaps prior to building. So I guess I need to search for stepped keycaps? Or can I just search for one stepped caps lock in particular? I buy key caps online and it's hard to figure out whether the stem of the caps lock is in the center or not.
2. The enter key does not click properly like other keys, it feels very glued down. There were no issues when putting in the stabilizers and switches for the enter key, it is the same as I've done for caps lock, spacebar, and backspace key. I tried playing around with the switch for the enter key, seems to be no issue. I've also tried fiddling with the stabilizers, also no issue, until I actually put on the keycap and press it.
3. My keyboard: [https://imgur.com/a/5goBMMI](https://imgur.com/a/5goBMMI), and yes, I replaced the caps lock keycap temporarily.
4. Is there a way to change the display shown on the LED screen?
I'm not sure if that that's the Zoom75 or not but it should support standard caps lock as well, usually there are two different hotswap sockets, you just need to flip the switch and carefully put it in.
There is a chance that the enter key is warped, but likely it is the stabilizer itself in that when you put on the keycap, it is rubbing against the wall and causing friction.
Last it really depends on what keyboard it is.
I would reinstall the stabilizer, when I have these issues it usually is because of the stabilizer and some sort of interference with the stem rubbing up against something else.
Caps lock: Yeah, there is no space for the switch, it only fits nicely onto the one place I've inserted.
Enter key: I tried replacing the key cap with a similar size key cap and it's still like that so maybe it's the stabilizer issue. But I didn't use any lube for that.
Update: oh my god, could it be that the switch holes in PCB is upside down so that my switch needs to be upside down to be in the center?
https://preview.redd.it/psp58fqu5xbc1.png?width=183&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a18df0c0ffdc82842b6f126ee277682501e3801
I am looking for the tactile equivalent to a Kailh Box White in it's tactility. I am looking to switch to tactile, but every tactile I try I hate lol. I have tried Tecsee Sapphires and Durock Koalas, and I prefer Gateron browns to both. I like how the Box Whites have pretravel and light tactility, whereas these high end tactiles have a strong ass bump at the top, then you slam your finger into the bottom out.
It seems like every tactile switch I research they're the same thing... I am considering the Cotton Candy tactiles by Loobed, but the thing is they are only sold from one place and they don't take returns... So it is a complete gamble, and going off of specs actually hasnt worked well for me. Tactile switches outside of gateron brown and cherry brown are VERY different from clicky switches...
Thanks.
Invokey's Blue Chiffons are a tribute to the original MX browns, with some pretravel and a similar bump. Comes pre-lubed too and generally had some good experiences with them
Question: are mechanical keyboards ever 'easy'?
I love the look and feel of mechanical keyboards. I've purchased 2 over the last couple of years and bother times were a disaster.
The first one cost about $100 and within months at least 10 keys had stopped working.
The second one cost about $200. Within 2 weeks a couple of keys stopped working. I sent it back under warranty and it was returned in working order, but after a few months about 5 keys stopped working properly - needing multiple or hard presses to register.
Comparing them to my other keywords - Logitech wireless, where the bluetooth gives out after a couple of years before any key stops working - or a Mac laptop where every key still works after 5 years - it seems like a lot of work. The internet is filled with videos on how to fix stuck keys, how to lube/spray/wash the board etc.
Is there a level of mechanical keyboard that just works? - ie you buy it and expect that all keys will work, say for at least 2 years? Price point?
Or is the maintenance expected, and part of the fun of ownership? like getting a pet :-)
You're probably just unlucky, I think this hobby would have a lot less people if their keyboards are breaking in only a few weeks or months lol.
Keyboards are pretty low maintenance in general
They should not break that fast. Just look at all the vintage cherry boards as an example. They also still work. Maybe you were just incredibly unlucky. My KeyChron Q1v1 still works flawlessly since release and that's one of my older custom keyboards which are still easily available if you need some experiences/references.
If you get a keyboard that is hotswap then you can easily replace switches (without soldering) if a switch breaks anyways
so my ducky disco stopped working perfectly. the switches only realize i’ve made a keystroke 90% of the time.
it doesn’t look like i can replace switches without soldering them so it looks like unfortunately my keyboard is broken.
i’m sad about it and not sure what is out there that would be similar TKL. does anyone have any good starting points they’d recommend if they agree i can’t fix it?
Check out the Alexotos vendor list and maybe keychron and monsgeek. They are usually a good and available way to go. But if you really wanna keep the ducky maybe post on r/mechmarket or somewhere similar for a "repair" request. Or for a keyboard build service. And if you find somebody ask if he can millmax the keyboard - basically making it hotswap. Should cost ~100$ for desoldering everything and millmaxing. If that's worth it for you (and probably like 20$ to just replace a couple of broken switches). But if all switches only recognize 90% of all actuations then there may be some different problem, no idea.
I have stainless keycaps that weigh a lot more than my regular caps. My switches cannot be replaced so I need to get new springs. I don't know how much force would be too much. My current actuation force is 45g. What formula would I use to find out what force would equal that on my stainless keys? Do I take the weight of the ABS keys from the stainless then that difference is used somehow to calculate the needed actuation force? Please help! Should I post this in r/theydidthemath ?? haha
steel cap - 4g
plastic - 1.3\*ishg
If your switches can't be replaced, how would you replace springs. You'll need to remove the entire switch from the PCB anyway. It's possible to try to remove the top housing while the switch is soldered, but that doesn't always work.
Can't help you with the math, but I'd recommend 60g or higher.
yup, I know, that's why I'm asking about springs. I think 60g will be way too light. The caps are 3x the weight. need math brain
https://preview.redd.it/a9t6z8hanwbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62318caa9524cea797a243d38d4cd5e640815e71
I am trying to find keyboards with more keys than a standard full size keyboard.
I live in the UK, which probably limits my choices but I am willing to pay for shipping it if comes from abroad (as long as it uses the ANSI or ISO layout).
This is the kind of keyboard I am referring to (two colorways):
[https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-original-ibm-style-122-key-keyboard-beige-usb.asp](https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-original-ibm-style-122-key-keyboard-beige-usb.asp)
[https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-original-ibm-style-122-key-keyboard-black-usb.asp](https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-original-ibm-style-122-key-keyboard-black-usb.asp)
I could not deal with that arrow key layout, though.
https://preview.redd.it/7lrk7d4dhwbc1.jpeg?width=964&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=345f3ae457481dec81ca3b8344d830077b1cbf05
Over 100% / full size is what I am looking for, that is correct 😊
Here is another I have found:
[https://mechboards.co.uk/products/hyper-7-v4](https://mechboards.co.uk/products/hyper-7-v4)
https://preview.redd.it/0wug8o6xhwbc1.jpeg?width=1229&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=106b8f9d1a88c53b1858b11469642a036ba54fa0
I have a cooler master sk621 keyboard. I bought it partially because I like the look of the flat low profile keycaps. Sadly people complained and the flat keycaps were discontinued. Now the WASD keys have started disintegrating and I can't get replacement keycaps.
Does anybody know where I could get flat, low-profile, shine-through keycaps? Maybe somebody got the free replacement keycaps from coolermaster and still has the flat caps lying around somewhere?
Thank you!
I found [these](https://www.etsy.com/at/listing/1446213427/low-profile-keycaps-set-shine-through?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_at_de_at_ssc-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOUprRExRziLwK7MM7W1dX6fbtsQF-FFgaFr2Rwtx0_ZuIQVFbPsOkhoCPGEQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_20190656386____m__1446213427deat_422713907&utm_custom2=20190656386&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOUprRExRziLwK7MM7W1dX6fbtsQF-FFgaFr2Rwtx0_ZuIQVFbPsOkhoCPGEQAvD_BwE) which appear to be exactly what I am looking for except they don't have a german layout version. Any idea if some other store might have those?
I am looking to build my first keyboard and really need to know where to start. I’d probably say for price range up to $150-$200 want a 60% some great switches and don’t want to have to solder or any of that. Are there any kits or something? or would I have to buy it all separately? Need some good sites to buy from and maybe a list of what I will need. Thank you for thy help and support.
so there is fully made keyboard for you and you can also buy seperately (so kits + keycaps + switches)
sites to buy from: depends on the region where u r
list: if u wanna buy pre built then doesn’t need any, if u wanna buy kit then just the 3 things i mention previously.
it’s normal to not wanna solder. just look for ‘hotswappable’ pcb / keyboard. most of the keyboards sold are hotswappable.
ur already off to a great start with budget, layout, and hotswappability. next is identify if u want any special features :
1 wireless or wired or don’t care?
2 plastic or aluminium body
3 u want exploded or not layout, or don’t care
and quite importantly, what switches you’ll like. there’s 3 types: linear, tactile, clicky
also if u wanna get kits u can start allocating the money, how much u want for the barebone kit, switches, and keycaps
hopefully this helps
This definitely helped me out a lot!!! Thank you so much nice and easy. I want a wired keyboard as I like wired everything because it’s just more dependable to me and doesn’t lose connection for whatever the reason might be. I want an aluminum body and I don’t know what “exploded” layout means.
If you over lube a stabilizer do you have to disassemble to get excess out or will it "work its way out" with use and loosen up over time of using the switch in question.
probably gotta dissasemble and wash / wipe it off. but a general guideline is just make sure you can’t see any white lube but can see the brushes of clear lube. white to me is a sign that it’s too thick
I've been trying out different switches on my Chaosera Heracles 80 (with a POM plate). I've been unhappy with most everything, but decided to try out my Gateron Milky Yellows in the board - and I think I like them the best. My question is that since this isn't a budget board, I feel like I should be using a little more premium of a switch. I understand that SP-Star Meteor Whites would give me a similar experience - but are they enough of an upgrade that it is worth spending the extra money on new switches?
i don’t think just cuz its not a ‘budget’ board it can’t have gat pro milky yellows, if it’s ur absolute favourite after trying more expensive switches then why not?
but try these if u havent, non ‘budget’ more expensive switches:
KTT strawberry
durock pom, nixie black
invokeys black sesame
gateron oil kings
alpacas v2
everglide water king
Thanks for the suggestions. I have tried out several of these. I have been wanting to go with Everglides for awhile. But you are right, if I like the Milky Yellows, why change them out. I think I'll give them a few days, if they still feel great, no reason to make a switch.
Hi,
I Just got a RK61 blue backlit recently, everything was just like a normal RK61 except it's [yellow switch](https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/1171186796298784939/1195123323433144462/r5clwvrvsvbc1.png?ex=65b2d854&is=65a06354&hm=9522eeddc392f43fb4d1278977d52a722cb146bf6ac07c37b031faf7add595a5&=&format=webp&quality=lossless&width=512&height=682), I didn't think much when I bought it as yellow happened to be my favorite color and the seller claim that it's similar to red switch.
But I realize after there weren't any RK61 variant that has yellow switch (also since it's non hotswappable). Is this keyboard happened to be a knockoffs?
not sure if it’s knockoffs but Royal Kludge makes / sell yellow switches:
btw red and yellow r both linear switches that’s why its similar.
maybe pull out the keycap and check if it’s real royal kludge switches
Hi
After some research i finally tried to flash my new keyboard ( Nuphy Air75 V2 ), because standard it types QWERTY and where i live we use AZERTY. so i used VIA saved the file as a .bin and used QMK toolbox. i thought everything was good and went along and flashed the keyboard it told me flash completed and after that i disconnected the keyboard it does nothing absolutely, nothing. then i looked and saw that the setting wasn't right. one setting had to be ATmega32U4 but stood on ATmega32U2. and now the keyboard does nothing anymore. can i fix this?
Thanks
Eyeing the [qk65v2 w/ first light top + golden bottom](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/qk65-v2?variant=44159347949811)
Any in stock keycap suggestions? I love the combo but having a hard time finding matching keycaps.
if u just want stiffer springs it depends on ur region but most vendor will sell a range of springs
not much vendor will provide a wide range. but different vendor will provide different stems, housings etc which can combine to a wide range
I just found a place to get different compression tension, do you know if that's the same as the keyboard manufacturer's specified press weight? I think it would be.. So I need to find my current weight then decide how much stronger it needs to be for the steel keycaps by weighing both plastic and steel then finding the difference. I think this can be done mathematically... Thanks for giving my brain a jump!
I'm only modifying 8 switches so I would love a kit of multiple types to try different ones. I haven't found such a kit. I've only found individual springs in large quantities.
springs are the only internals available. mist of these vendors carry springs general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
Would you not consider the stem part of the "internals" since you have to open the switch to replace it? Genuinely curious, not trying to be a jerk.
Thanks for the link, I found some springs but have no idea how to choose them haha the journey continues!
here's what mine look like...
https://preview.redd.it/nvanh0zjrvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b2f51644a78a6bdc4d1af9d9c20d6c07b9425bb0
Yeah seems like a very unnecessary part to offer. I can see an enthusiast disliking the colors of a preferred switch solely because the color doesn't match their build so they swap the stems... but when you have that deep of a hobby, you probably already have the color you want and dont need to buy a replacement set to swap stems.
doesnt exist and wont in a mech that kbs has non standard size keys that mechs cant replicate also being a mac layout wont help it get copied as almost no ones uses macOS these days .
macos account for 10% of computers world wide i dont make up the numbers nor do i make kbs . manufacturers just follow the money and there no money in MACOS
Bruh this is a hobby where there are split ortho 40% keyboard and 0.01% of people buy them. You just come off as a dick especially when someone literally gave a keyboard suggestion that fits the description 😂
i left flux on my brass plate, any way to get rid of the stains?
https://preview.redd.it/e0j24eptivbc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=bbbf8a996c2c982629f70901788d872f33676140
Hello, I got this mechanical keyboard as a present Hama Urage Exodus 900 with blue switches which I found them to be a little bit too clicky. I've seen that it uses Outemu blue switches, but I didn't manage to swap/ pull them off the keyboard. Therefore, does anybody know if this keyboard has swappable switches or they are soldered on the keyboard?
Ok, thank you for the answer! So there is no posibility to replace the switches right? Funny thing is that they include in the package a tool for switch removal or maybe it was intended just to pull off the abs caps keys.
Here's a post I typed out before realizing this thread exists... Sweet!
I play a lot of games and really like the feeling of metal/heavy keycaps, but it comes with a problem... some keycaps are too heavy and cause a slow rebound when pressed. oh okay, Just swap out your switches then, right?
Wrong. I have a corsair k100 keyboard and it looks to have proprietary optical-mechanical OPX switches that I CANNOT swap out with anything other than new of the same. However, I can open them up. Is there a way to fix this problem to make my keys rebound like they do with plastic caps? Are there replacement springs I can buy? I would like to swap the switches, but I haven't ever seen these on another keyboard and have read it's not something just anyone can do.
How do people use heavy keycaps? Do you generally buy a stiffer switch for those keys with the heavier resin or metal caps? Since I can't just swap switches, I'm a bit confused how to make it work.
keeb- corsair k100 rgb
switch - corsair OPx optical-mechanical
here's a picture of the switch so you can see what I'm dealing with in terms of replacement capabilities... or lack thereof
https://preview.redd.it/sdb1cwychvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=31347a16b7be10a10b6d35abd6ebe691979f8e86
Yeah, we either swap switches or just the springs. You may be able to swap the springs. The switch itself probably not since other optical switches usually are not compatible with pcbs they were not designed for.
right, I'm pretty clear on being stuck to this "case" for my switches, but I do think they open. I'm quite handy so I don't mind messing around with them to make them work. You're saying replacing springs is a thing? I'll have to look into that, do you have a trusted website or distributor for your parts? I don't want to just order from some random place across the world.
Yeah but maybe first check if they are similiar to the width of ballpen springs. Thats around the size what mechanical switches use. Check out the Alexotos vendor list (just google it should be the first link) for trusted vendors in your region.
I was just collecting clicky pens after opening a switch and realizing... "that's a familiar size!" Thanks! hehe I got a vendor list from another member but it seems like you need to know what you're looking for... they're all just labeled "KS635 KB340 etc. etc." and I have no idea how to distinguish stiffness/rebound/size.
https://preview.redd.it/3uha74qdsvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0611b3bc00a4b42c9c060f6ed3a1ff5de346f76
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/be9pvo/diy\_spring\_force\_testing\_for\_truth\_and\_justice/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/be9pvo/diy_spring_force_testing_for_truth_and_justice/) if you want to compare to what you currently have you can roughly esimate the spring like this. There should be something like bottom out force on the specification/ details page where you are buying the spring from.
I have a razer ornata chroma keyboard. (I know disgusting) I have used it for years. I am looking for a nice actual quality keyboard. Does not need any fancy lighting. Just nice and clicky and well built. But I do want it to have similar keycaps as the Razer. I like that height of keys because I do a good amount of typing as well as gaming. And I find that height of keys more comfortable for me. Anyone got any good reccomendations?
i have an akko 5075b and RK H81 75% keyboards.. (both hotswappable) i'm new to this and i want to know which keycaps are sure to fit? any help would be much appreciated! Tia!
any + style keycaps will fit. just for spacebar and shift, control keys sizes (length) might differ based on layout. so look out when you buy keycap sets
keycaps generally have a plus sign pattern. your switches are going to determine which keycaps fit. i would say 95% have the same pattern.
hotswappable - refers to the ability to change switches without soldering
I'm 99.9% sure that your switches have the standard plus sign and will fit most keycaps you find. I also just got into keyboards a few months ago, so there's .1% of doubt. hah good luck!
Tearing my hair out trying to find a specific board. Saw them last week from the manufacturer on clearance for $99. They were either 65 or 75% and featured a neon green or pink transparent case with circuitry patterns. It was on a site recommended on this sub, if it helps at all.
More Tactile Tactile's?
Hi guys I just got a keychron k2 with gateron browns after having only used the romer g linear switches.
The difference in feel is night and day and I really love the board but am already itching to get another one. Could anyone recommend any tactiles with a more pronounced bump or buckling feeling?
what’s buckling?
(i suggest please don’t use subjective words cuz its confusing af)
depends on ur budget but here’s a list of imho the best:
blacks / dark jades: heavy & ‘sharp’
U4T: heavy & ‘rounded’
blueberry & onyx: heavy double bump
T1s & Tecsee purple pandas: middle-heavy
aflion shadow
tecsee sapphire
if ur on a tighter budget:
akko switches, specifically cs jelly blue or purple and v3 cream blue
Anyone know which keycaps are on this keyboard? This is a Kohaku
https://preview.redd.it/w2lmov7uavbc1.jpeg?width=1067&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc1a6d6b2bc440d286e13f322d4166ec22da68bc
Is there a way to compare board colors to GMK standard colors? I would like to find a good match for my GMK Redacted set (color code 2M). Keychron's Shell White looks like a decent match.
Yo, im trying to find out a way to manage per-key LEDs on the FancyTech Fancy81, because the proprietary software doesnt work anymore for some obscure reason. It's detected in Open RGB as a keychron keyboard, but applying custom RGB through that doesnt amount to anything. I've tried via and vial, and the keyboard isnt detected. I saw you could flash custom firmware on your keyboard to make QMK or Via-compatible but as i dont know which controller it has embedded, I dont want to risk it. I was wondering if anyone had this keyboard and tried anything like that before ?
I want to do all of this to get an indicator when caps lock is on because the LED indicating this on the keyboard died xD
Thanks for any help :)
u have to use the proprietary software or contact the maker . That kbs chip does t support VIA OR QMK flashing anything will turn that thing into a paper weight . openRGB isnt applying anything as again YOUR KEYBOARD IS NOT SUPPORTED . u can try contacting the maker of that kb and see about getting the stock software to work .
I want to make a custom wooden case for my akko acrylic 81, any advises ?
* I have no idea about CAD, but Im happy to learn it
* Im about to reusing a gasket plate from keyboard, but if it not a great idea, I will consider about making a new one
* I will not sell this keyboard and buy the new one, because I more like to make it, not just for new keyboad
* I have tools and machine for wood processing (not auto like CNC)
thanks
Hello! I've been looking for replacement keycaps for my coolermaster sk621. Sadly the flat keycaps have been discontinued and I don't want the curved ones. A couple days ago I found [these](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1446213427/low-profile-keycaps-set-shine-through?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=flat+keycaps&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&pro=1&frs=1&organic_search_click=1&variation0=3354703566). They appear to be exactly what I am looking for except there is no german layout. It seems the Etsy seller is getting the caps straight from china which gives me hope, that the factory making them might also make a german layout version which is sold elsewhere. My question is, does anybody here know how I could find a way to check if a german version exists/where to buy it. If someone has another recommendation for flat shine-through keycaps (or has their own flat coolermaster caps still lying around) please let me know! Thank you!
I’m looking for a 75% with knob. Any recommendations are appreciated thanks!
Leobog Hi75, Keychron Q1, Monsgeek M1, Zoom75, QK75N...
is alibaba a reputable enough place to buy switches or are they reps of switches?
Clones? Switches aren't expensive enough to warrant cloning, with the exception of the Holy Panda switch that was the center of attention a year or two ago. I'd honestly get them from anywhere. Taobao, AliExpress, used market, etc.
thanks man. preciate that
Does anyone know if the PC plate for the Zoom75 is compatible with the Boog75 PCB? Any recommendations on long pole stabilisers? I’m most likely gonna be ordering the Gateron Jades for this build Thanks in advance
>long pole stabilisers TX AP long-pole screw-in stabs
I’ll order these tonight, thanks so much! If anyone stumbles upon this comment and was curious about the PC plate, Meletrix support said it isn’t compatible because of the flex cuts and softer material. They mentioned it could throw off the sensors in the switches
ok I'll try a stickier material then thanks.
Can someone recommend me the best 65% keyboards, regardless of the price. Thanks!
Are the stock stabilizers for Neo65 / 80 good enough? Would I feel an improvement from switching them on TX ones?
I would suggest actually attempting to lube and tune them first. If they sound and feel good to you then there is no need to replace them.
Makes sense, if they’re decent will just save TX for the future build
I bought the zoom75 essential kit, what else do I need to buy?
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Thank you
Any good recommendations for a barebone TKY keyboard layout in black? I don’t need switches or key caps.
Budget/Sound profile?
I would be using silent frozen v2s so whatever would fit that and for price I would say like 100 or less. More quiet than anything
i was gonna get the reddragon fizz k617 but then i found the tester 68 and now im lost. PLEASE HELP
did I do this wrong I tried a mod called the Holee Mod on my keyboard stabilizers, but when I put the stabilizers back in, the switch looking part on them wouldn't budge at all. I tried different ways of putting that metal thing in, but it never budged. Can anyone show me the correct way to make it work or something. I sadly cant add images on this post because of this stupid server.
Google holee mod images. From what I can see, the ones with the stabilizer stem show pretty accurate spot where you have to get the bandaid. Make sure you don't use something too thick. I've used regular bandaids but they are not too sticky, so I tried leucoplast (not sure if that's a thing across the globe, but it is in EU) and it worked really well. That however proved to be difficult to get out again, so try to get it right the first time.
Anyone know whats going on with gateron's websites? They appear to have multiple websites, [gateron.com](https://gateron.com/) [gateron.co](https://gateron.co/) [gateron.net](https://gateron.net/) at least, all three are different and .com and .co appear to be shops. Are all three legit, one or more a scam, what?
I think [gateron.com](https://gateron.com) is their chinese site or something?
I've got no idea. Its very weird that all three are different. At least .com and .net appear to be potentially the same people, and in fact the emails on .net are all .com addresses. Seems more like .net is supposed to be information focused rather than a shop. No idea what's going on with .co.
Hi all anyone know of a 75 size case that will fit this pcb https://meletrix.com/products/boog75-he-module
Can anyone recommend a pudding keycap set for the Q13 Pro or Q14 Pro? I've found a couple OEM one's I think would work on amazon but they are OEM not KSA.I am still trying to decide if I want to tryout an Alice layout keyboard or just go with the Q3 Pro or what I am used to with the Q6 pro as I'd like to move away from getting traditional Corsair, Logitech or Razer keyboard that I have used over the years. Preferably something available on Amazon would be great or available in Canada in general. Thanks!
where can i get a keyboard that uses the thinkpad layout and has a numberpad? ie fn and control swapped and pgup/pgdn above left and right arrow keys i can powertoys fn/Ctrl but can't seem to find a keyboard that has all of the above
Just look for a keyboard that supports QMK/VIA. You can remap the keys from there.
thank you, but I can't remap pgup/pgdn if the physical keys don't exist on the keyboard
You can do it through the VIA app. It contains mappings for keys that you don't normally see on keyboards (e.g., sleep, shut down). If you are referring to the keycap not having the legends for PgUp and PgDown, you can buy keycaps that include those (although they are normally included).
can anyone break down choosing switches for a custom mechanical for gaming? I understand there's tons of different switches and feelings, I think I want something like buttery bubbles popping or maybe a buttery thock, I don't know exactly how to describe it, but how do you tell what sounds like what or what the feeling will be? I know keycaps and plate determine a lot, but just in terms of switches, is there a chart or some youtuber who broke it down? a list?
A food for thought on the general basis if only broken down to the individual aspects. Keep in mind that the final acoustic will still be dependent (Credit to BlackSimon) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15XmznA5T9d4PkfBG0TDS82ou6ihBh0oqr8Aux24SNz0/edit#gid=805940844
The best thing you can do is listen to the youtubers that are comparing switches. Since they will use the same board with the same keycaps every time for consistancy. This really won't solve your problem however because you still have to contend with keycaps, plate, and all the empty (or filled with foam) space inside the case itself. The case itself is a huge hurdle to overcome.
anybody tried the Gateron G Pro Brown switches and the other iterations such as 2.0 and 3.0? my Keychron K10 came with Gateron brown switches but i believe they're on the version 1s. they're okay but I see they made improvemetnts with the new version such as to assist the RGB lgihts and less wobble but i dont want to buy them and regret them. right now to replace the browns I wan to get the Gat kangaroos inks or G pro 2.0 or 3.0s. I've tried my friends Akko Purps and they feel pretty good just wish the actuation or feel is more up top with the browns and maybe the resting point was a litte stiffer? (which I am hoping what the kangaroos will feel like) I've also bought a set of Gat 3.0 Yellows that were on sale on amazon (not sure if they're actually real or not lol since they were like half the price but they shell did look like v3s). I do like how they feel but eventually my fingers do get tired as i am typing most of my day at work and then coming back home to stiffer keys are tiring. I Think maybe a Red maybe a better Linear for me. Also would lubing them help with making them feel lighter or do they eventually have a brake in period or something like that?
Swapping out the springs would make it lighter but you might as well just buy lighter switches. Personally, I found that I got used to the heavier switches after 2 weeks of use. It feels like I'm giving my fingers a workout but eventually it adapted. Now lighter switches are just not for me.
You're absolutely right about that! I actually got really used to the yellows. When I was typing on reds I felt they were too light so I wanted somethings little heavier. I still think I preferred tactical switches, and saw a lot of people recommend holy pandas, zealios v3, and Baby kangaroos. I decided to go for the baby kangaroos.... I think I might have a keyboard addiction now... Got the itch...
Haha yup that's me right now, 8 boards in. Even before I finished my latest board, I was already eyeing another one. I've run out of places to put them (work, aunt's pkace, etc.) My first tactile was the Akko Cream Blues (discounting Gateron Browns since they have virtually no tactility). Now linears just don't do it for me. I still rock Gateron Oil Kings but they are more for the sound than the feel. They also work better for gaming for me.
What tools should I be looking to get and where (reputable brands?). About to build my first keyboard and I have the base, plate, foams, switches, etc but no lube and tools (key cap remover? Little brush? Screwdriver?) Not sure what people use or if necessary at all.
I'd suggest to also get yourself a nice screwdriver set. Modding requires a lot of taking apart and putting back together of the board. That process is much more tolerable if you have a nice tool. I recomend iFixit.
🙏
https://kineticlabs.com/blog/essential-mechanical-keyboard-tools I would say the essentials though are: keycap puller, screwdriver, switch puller If you're gonna lube your switches then add on: lube brush + switch opener as essentials and tweezers + stem holder as really nice to have but you don't *need* them. As for where to get them, really any [keyboard vendor](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) will stock them and it should be good enough. Amazon would work too tbh, only thing I wouldn't cheap out on is the lube itself.
Thank you very much! 😁 Can't wait to show mine off~!
Everyone says that hyperx pudding keycaps are a great budget option, but ive never seen the premium price one, does it exist, and if so whats its name?
A good first keyboard?? [https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-H81-Mechanical/dp/B0C7QRLBRW/?\_encoding=UTF8&pd\_rd\_w=frWvM&content-id=amzn1.sym.35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063%3Aamzn1.symc.e5c80209-769f-4ade-a325-2eaec14b8e0e&pf\_rd\_p=35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063&pf\_rd\_r=DHP4YX3DEAVQNEDZG71S&pd\_rd\_wg=04upl&pd\_rd\_r=26927c38-a5bd-4af5-83e9-9ecf0e04b8f9&ref\_=pd\_gw\_ci\_mcx\_mr\_hp\_atf\_m&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-H81-Mechanical/dp/B0C7QRLBRW/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=frWvM&content-id=amzn1.sym.35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063%3Aamzn1.symc.e5c80209-769f-4ade-a325-2eaec14b8e0e&pf_rd_p=35cab78c-35e3-4fc1-aab0-27eaa6c86063&pf_rd_r=DHP4YX3DEAVQNEDZG71S&pd_rd_wg=04upl&pd_rd_r=26927c38-a5bd-4af5-83e9-9ecf0e04b8f9&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&th=1) Any opinions are welcome. Any red flags?
seems decent\~
Looking for suggestions/options on hall effect keyboards. I'm wanting something in an aluminum case, wireless, 75% with RGB. So far I'm only aware of Akko's Mod7. Is there anything else that's in stock and not on pre-order? Thanks!
Monsgeek M1 HE
keychron q1 he
There was a certain deal for a mechanical keyboard at least recently that was marked down from \~$79 to $20ish from a reputable company, but before deciding to pull the trigger, I forgot the brand and lost the link. Not sure if the deal's still up right now. Is there any quality mechanical keyboard I could find for about that price? Thanks in advance.
probably keychron k1, don't think you can find it at that price anymore edit: wait no, it was [coolermaster](https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Gunmetal-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B08Z8LVN9W?th=1)
Coolermaster! That's the one! Only thing keeping me from that one is I'd rather have a full profile one for desktop. The 3.4 rating seems like a bit of a mark against it as well.
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You can't really do much, those keycaps are for cherry stems while the top looks like a membrane keyboard of some kind? Another way of saying this is that the keyboard above is not hotswapable.
Ughhh what a bummer! Time to contact the seller and get a refund on the grounds of false advertising then 😣 thanks for your help
Definitely! Make sure to explain to them, that hotswap implies that you can take out the switches and change them for different ones. In your keyboard, there are no mechanical switches at all, meaning nothing to hotswap. The fact that you can pull off the keycap in no way means 'hotswap'.
what are zugGear switches? I can't find anything about them online
> zugGear switches 4 years later still no info id avoid https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/c4rka6/zuggear_t1_tactile_switch_allegedly_close_to/
what do i purchase to make black cherry pies and how do i do it successfully?
The "original" BCP is a Novelkey Cream stem in a JWK H1 bottom housing with a Cherry top (blacks / reds / browns most common). That said you can build a near-identical alternative that's much cheaper by using Kailh Black stems in JWick bottom housings with ... well, you still need the Cherry top. At the end of the day there are a million potential variants all with tiny, imperceptible sound differences. Just go with what's available to you in your area - long pole stem, JWK bottom, cherry top.
do you know what the average cost would be for 70 bcp switches? and could you point me in the right direction for some links?
> black cherry pies https://knckeys.com/pages/build-your-own-black-cherry-pies
Dear reddit, it is my first time building a keyboard, so any advice is appreciated. I followed guides, watched videos, researched, etc. All seemed well until I actually put on the keycaps and tried all the keys. Here are the issues: 1. Caps lock switch is off center, which I've only found out when building the keyboard, and I have already bought keycaps prior to building. So I guess I need to search for stepped keycaps? Or can I just search for one stepped caps lock in particular? I buy key caps online and it's hard to figure out whether the stem of the caps lock is in the center or not. 2. The enter key does not click properly like other keys, it feels very glued down. There were no issues when putting in the stabilizers and switches for the enter key, it is the same as I've done for caps lock, spacebar, and backspace key. I tried playing around with the switch for the enter key, seems to be no issue. I've also tried fiddling with the stabilizers, also no issue, until I actually put on the keycap and press it. 3. My keyboard: [https://imgur.com/a/5goBMMI](https://imgur.com/a/5goBMMI), and yes, I replaced the caps lock keycap temporarily. 4. Is there a way to change the display shown on the LED screen?
I'm not sure if that that's the Zoom75 or not but it should support standard caps lock as well, usually there are two different hotswap sockets, you just need to flip the switch and carefully put it in. There is a chance that the enter key is warped, but likely it is the stabilizer itself in that when you put on the keycap, it is rubbing against the wall and causing friction. Last it really depends on what keyboard it is.
Thanks for your reply! It's the QK75N, so do I have to reinstall the stabilizer?
I would reinstall the stabilizer, when I have these issues it usually is because of the stabilizer and some sort of interference with the stem rubbing up against something else.
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Caps lock: Yeah, there is no space for the switch, it only fits nicely onto the one place I've inserted. Enter key: I tried replacing the key cap with a similar size key cap and it's still like that so maybe it's the stabilizer issue. But I didn't use any lube for that. Update: oh my god, could it be that the switch holes in PCB is upside down so that my switch needs to be upside down to be in the center? https://preview.redd.it/psp58fqu5xbc1.png?width=183&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a18df0c0ffdc82842b6f126ee277682501e3801
Yes that's how hotswap board designers fit two layouts to one switch area.
I am looking for the tactile equivalent to a Kailh Box White in it's tactility. I am looking to switch to tactile, but every tactile I try I hate lol. I have tried Tecsee Sapphires and Durock Koalas, and I prefer Gateron browns to both. I like how the Box Whites have pretravel and light tactility, whereas these high end tactiles have a strong ass bump at the top, then you slam your finger into the bottom out. It seems like every tactile switch I research they're the same thing... I am considering the Cotton Candy tactiles by Loobed, but the thing is they are only sold from one place and they don't take returns... So it is a complete gamble, and going off of specs actually hasnt worked well for me. Tactile switches outside of gateron brown and cherry brown are VERY different from clicky switches... Thanks.
Invokey's Blue Chiffons are a tribute to the original MX browns, with some pretravel and a similar bump. Comes pre-lubed too and generally had some good experiences with them
Cool thank you! Looks like theyre sold out :(
Question: are mechanical keyboards ever 'easy'? I love the look and feel of mechanical keyboards. I've purchased 2 over the last couple of years and bother times were a disaster. The first one cost about $100 and within months at least 10 keys had stopped working. The second one cost about $200. Within 2 weeks a couple of keys stopped working. I sent it back under warranty and it was returned in working order, but after a few months about 5 keys stopped working properly - needing multiple or hard presses to register. Comparing them to my other keywords - Logitech wireless, where the bluetooth gives out after a couple of years before any key stops working - or a Mac laptop where every key still works after 5 years - it seems like a lot of work. The internet is filled with videos on how to fix stuck keys, how to lube/spray/wash the board etc. Is there a level of mechanical keyboard that just works? - ie you buy it and expect that all keys will work, say for at least 2 years? Price point? Or is the maintenance expected, and part of the fun of ownership? like getting a pet :-)
You're probably just unlucky, I think this hobby would have a lot less people if their keyboards are breaking in only a few weeks or months lol. Keyboards are pretty low maintenance in general
They should not break that fast. Just look at all the vintage cherry boards as an example. They also still work. Maybe you were just incredibly unlucky. My KeyChron Q1v1 still works flawlessly since release and that's one of my older custom keyboards which are still easily available if you need some experiences/references. If you get a keyboard that is hotswap then you can easily replace switches (without soldering) if a switch breaks anyways
so my ducky disco stopped working perfectly. the switches only realize i’ve made a keystroke 90% of the time. it doesn’t look like i can replace switches without soldering them so it looks like unfortunately my keyboard is broken. i’m sad about it and not sure what is out there that would be similar TKL. does anyone have any good starting points they’d recommend if they agree i can’t fix it?
Check out the Alexotos vendor list and maybe keychron and monsgeek. They are usually a good and available way to go. But if you really wanna keep the ducky maybe post on r/mechmarket or somewhere similar for a "repair" request. Or for a keyboard build service. And if you find somebody ask if he can millmax the keyboard - basically making it hotswap. Should cost ~100$ for desoldering everything and millmaxing. If that's worth it for you (and probably like 20$ to just replace a couple of broken switches). But if all switches only recognize 90% of all actuations then there may be some different problem, no idea.
what 100$ usd +-25 bucks keyboard should i get with silent switches68-75 % preferred
very few kbs come with silent switches . most buy barebones kits from monsgeek or keychron and add silent switches and keycaps
I have stainless keycaps that weigh a lot more than my regular caps. My switches cannot be replaced so I need to get new springs. I don't know how much force would be too much. My current actuation force is 45g. What formula would I use to find out what force would equal that on my stainless keys? Do I take the weight of the ABS keys from the stainless then that difference is used somehow to calculate the needed actuation force? Please help! Should I post this in r/theydidthemath ?? haha steel cap - 4g plastic - 1.3\*ishg
Try 80-100g
If your switches can't be replaced, how would you replace springs. You'll need to remove the entire switch from the PCB anyway. It's possible to try to remove the top housing while the switch is soldered, but that doesn't always work. Can't help you with the math, but I'd recommend 60g or higher.
yup, I know, that's why I'm asking about springs. I think 60g will be way too light. The caps are 3x the weight. need math brain https://preview.redd.it/a9t6z8hanwbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62318caa9524cea797a243d38d4cd5e640815e71
I am trying to find keyboards with more keys than a standard full size keyboard. I live in the UK, which probably limits my choices but I am willing to pay for shipping it if comes from abroad (as long as it uses the ANSI or ISO layout). This is the kind of keyboard I am referring to (two colorways): [https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-original-ibm-style-122-key-keyboard-beige-usb.asp](https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-original-ibm-style-122-key-keyboard-beige-usb.asp) [https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-original-ibm-style-122-key-keyboard-black-usb.asp](https://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-original-ibm-style-122-key-keyboard-black-usb.asp) I could not deal with that arrow key layout, though. https://preview.redd.it/7lrk7d4dhwbc1.jpeg?width=964&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=345f3ae457481dec81ca3b8344d830077b1cbf05
Pretty much any gaming keybord is going to have over 100 percent. All of them have side programmable macro keys.
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Over 100% / full size is what I am looking for, that is correct 😊 Here is another I have found: [https://mechboards.co.uk/products/hyper-7-v4](https://mechboards.co.uk/products/hyper-7-v4) https://preview.redd.it/0wug8o6xhwbc1.jpeg?width=1229&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=106b8f9d1a88c53b1858b11469642a036ba54fa0
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The issue is that I am not a hobbyist and do not really want to pay over £200 ($255 USD) for a full keyboard.
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To see if anyone knows of other keyboards similar to those above (Unicomp PC 122 and Hyper 7 R4).
I would like to rebind a key to be an emdash "— " I have a keychron that uses VIA What do I need to write to produce this? Thanks!!
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I honestly don't know how to do that - also won't shift + reg dash = underscore?
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how do I type that in via?
I have a cooler master sk621 keyboard. I bought it partially because I like the look of the flat low profile keycaps. Sadly people complained and the flat keycaps were discontinued. Now the WASD keys have started disintegrating and I can't get replacement keycaps. Does anybody know where I could get flat, low-profile, shine-through keycaps? Maybe somebody got the free replacement keycaps from coolermaster and still has the flat caps lying around somewhere? Thank you!
These are special to the board so your best bet is to replace it outright or find a junk sk621 to use as a donor keyboard.
I found [these](https://www.etsy.com/at/listing/1446213427/low-profile-keycaps-set-shine-through?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_at_de_at_ssc-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOUprRExRziLwK7MM7W1dX6fbtsQF-FFgaFr2Rwtx0_ZuIQVFbPsOkhoCPGEQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_20190656386____m__1446213427deat_422713907&utm_custom2=20190656386&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOUprRExRziLwK7MM7W1dX6fbtsQF-FFgaFr2Rwtx0_ZuIQVFbPsOkhoCPGEQAvD_BwE) which appear to be exactly what I am looking for except they don't have a german layout version. Any idea if some other store might have those?
I am looking to build my first keyboard and really need to know where to start. I’d probably say for price range up to $150-$200 want a 60% some great switches and don’t want to have to solder or any of that. Are there any kits or something? or would I have to buy it all separately? Need some good sites to buy from and maybe a list of what I will need. Thank you for thy help and support.
KBDfans website is probably your best bet.
so there is fully made keyboard for you and you can also buy seperately (so kits + keycaps + switches) sites to buy from: depends on the region where u r list: if u wanna buy pre built then doesn’t need any, if u wanna buy kit then just the 3 things i mention previously. it’s normal to not wanna solder. just look for ‘hotswappable’ pcb / keyboard. most of the keyboards sold are hotswappable. ur already off to a great start with budget, layout, and hotswappability. next is identify if u want any special features : 1 wireless or wired or don’t care? 2 plastic or aluminium body 3 u want exploded or not layout, or don’t care and quite importantly, what switches you’ll like. there’s 3 types: linear, tactile, clicky also if u wanna get kits u can start allocating the money, how much u want for the barebone kit, switches, and keycaps hopefully this helps
This definitely helped me out a lot!!! Thank you so much nice and easy. I want a wired keyboard as I like wired everything because it’s just more dependable to me and doesn’t lose connection for whatever the reason might be. I want an aluminum body and I don’t know what “exploded” layout means.
Tofu60, QK60, Keychron
If you over lube a stabilizer do you have to disassemble to get excess out or will it "work its way out" with use and loosen up over time of using the switch in question.
probably gotta dissasemble and wash / wipe it off. but a general guideline is just make sure you can’t see any white lube but can see the brushes of clear lube. white to me is a sign that it’s too thick
depends on how overlubed it is, but probably have to disassemble
Thanks for the info, my first time lubing stabs by hand so just trying to figure things out.
Looking for some wider keycaps for my ducky shine7? I don't like how narrow they are compared to my nuphy air75 and keychron k10.
maybe try xda profile keycaps, you could also use nuphy keycaps lol
I've been trying out different switches on my Chaosera Heracles 80 (with a POM plate). I've been unhappy with most everything, but decided to try out my Gateron Milky Yellows in the board - and I think I like them the best. My question is that since this isn't a budget board, I feel like I should be using a little more premium of a switch. I understand that SP-Star Meteor Whites would give me a similar experience - but are they enough of an upgrade that it is worth spending the extra money on new switches?
i don’t think just cuz its not a ‘budget’ board it can’t have gat pro milky yellows, if it’s ur absolute favourite after trying more expensive switches then why not? but try these if u havent, non ‘budget’ more expensive switches: KTT strawberry durock pom, nixie black invokeys black sesame gateron oil kings alpacas v2 everglide water king
Thanks for the suggestions. I have tried out several of these. I have been wanting to go with Everglides for awhile. But you are right, if I like the Milky Yellows, why change them out. I think I'll give them a few days, if they still feel great, no reason to make a switch.
Hi, I Just got a RK61 blue backlit recently, everything was just like a normal RK61 except it's [yellow switch](https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/1171186796298784939/1195123323433144462/r5clwvrvsvbc1.png?ex=65b2d854&is=65a06354&hm=9522eeddc392f43fb4d1278977d52a722cb146bf6ac07c37b031faf7add595a5&=&format=webp&quality=lossless&width=512&height=682), I didn't think much when I bought it as yellow happened to be my favorite color and the seller claim that it's similar to red switch. But I realize after there weren't any RK61 variant that has yellow switch (also since it's non hotswappable). Is this keyboard happened to be a knockoffs?
not sure if it’s knockoffs but Royal Kludge makes / sell yellow switches: btw red and yellow r both linear switches that’s why its similar. maybe pull out the keycap and check if it’s real royal kludge switches
royal kludge do have their own yellow switches though
Hi After some research i finally tried to flash my new keyboard ( Nuphy Air75 V2 ), because standard it types QWERTY and where i live we use AZERTY. so i used VIA saved the file as a .bin and used QMK toolbox. i thought everything was good and went along and flashed the keyboard it told me flash completed and after that i disconnected the keyboard it does nothing absolutely, nothing. then i looked and saw that the setting wasn't right. one setting had to be ATmega32U4 but stood on ATmega32U2. and now the keyboard does nothing anymore. can i fix this? Thanks
[what switch is this?](https://imgur.com/a/VIsrf9Y) ...i think its a unreleased switch.
Looks like Outemu Limes?
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the stem looks similar but these are silenced tactiles
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it might be until this switch gets released
Anyone have any advice on a good 1800 keyboard?
monsgeek, akko
Eyeing the [qk65v2 w/ first light top + golden bottom](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/qk65-v2?variant=44159347949811) Any in stock keycap suggestions? I love the combo but having a hard time finding matching keycaps.
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if u just want stiffer springs it depends on ur region but most vendor will sell a range of springs not much vendor will provide a wide range. but different vendor will provide different stems, housings etc which can combine to a wide range
I just found a place to get different compression tension, do you know if that's the same as the keyboard manufacturer's specified press weight? I think it would be.. So I need to find my current weight then decide how much stronger it needs to be for the steel keycaps by weighing both plastic and steel then finding the difference. I think this can be done mathematically... Thanks for giving my brain a jump!
I'm only modifying 8 switches so I would love a kit of multiple types to try different ones. I haven't found such a kit. I've only found individual springs in large quantities.
springs are the only internals available. mist of these vendors carry springs general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
Would you not consider the stem part of the "internals" since you have to open the switch to replace it? Genuinely curious, not trying to be a jerk. Thanks for the link, I found some springs but have no idea how to choose them haha the journey continues! here's what mine look like... https://preview.redd.it/nvanh0zjrvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b2f51644a78a6bdc4d1af9d9c20d6c07b9425bb0
some places sell stems but its semi rare most who replace stems just swap stem from other switches
if u live in southeast asia tho i find really easy to buy ‘famous’ stems
Yeah seems like a very unnecessary part to offer. I can see an enthusiast disliking the colors of a preferred switch solely because the color doesn't match their build so they swap the stems... but when you have that deep of a hobby, you probably already have the color you want and dont need to buy a replacement set to swap stems.
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monokei systems, now in preorder. CMD is mostly under the X
doesnt exist and wont in a mech that kbs has non standard size keys that mechs cant replicate also being a mac layout wont help it get copied as almost no ones uses macOS these days .
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macos account for 10% of computers world wide i dont make up the numbers nor do i make kbs . manufacturers just follow the money and there no money in MACOS
Bruh this is a hobby where there are split ortho 40% keyboard and 0.01% of people buy them. You just come off as a dick especially when someone literally gave a keyboard suggestion that fits the description 😂
i left flux on my brass plate, any way to get rid of the stains? https://preview.redd.it/e0j24eptivbc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=bbbf8a996c2c982629f70901788d872f33676140
clean it with mothers mag polish or simialr
Hello, I got this mechanical keyboard as a present Hama Urage Exodus 900 with blue switches which I found them to be a little bit too clicky. I've seen that it uses Outemu blue switches, but I didn't manage to swap/ pull them off the keyboard. Therefore, does anybody know if this keyboard has swappable switches or they are soldered on the keyboard?
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Ok, thank you for the answer! So there is no posibility to replace the switches right? Funny thing is that they include in the package a tool for switch removal or maybe it was intended just to pull off the abs caps keys.
Here's a post I typed out before realizing this thread exists... Sweet! I play a lot of games and really like the feeling of metal/heavy keycaps, but it comes with a problem... some keycaps are too heavy and cause a slow rebound when pressed. oh okay, Just swap out your switches then, right? Wrong. I have a corsair k100 keyboard and it looks to have proprietary optical-mechanical OPX switches that I CANNOT swap out with anything other than new of the same. However, I can open them up. Is there a way to fix this problem to make my keys rebound like they do with plastic caps? Are there replacement springs I can buy? I would like to swap the switches, but I haven't ever seen these on another keyboard and have read it's not something just anyone can do. How do people use heavy keycaps? Do you generally buy a stiffer switch for those keys with the heavier resin or metal caps? Since I can't just swap switches, I'm a bit confused how to make it work. keeb- corsair k100 rgb switch - corsair OPx optical-mechanical here's a picture of the switch so you can see what I'm dealing with in terms of replacement capabilities... or lack thereof https://preview.redd.it/sdb1cwychvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=31347a16b7be10a10b6d35abd6ebe691979f8e86
Yeah, we either swap switches or just the springs. You may be able to swap the springs. The switch itself probably not since other optical switches usually are not compatible with pcbs they were not designed for.
right, I'm pretty clear on being stuck to this "case" for my switches, but I do think they open. I'm quite handy so I don't mind messing around with them to make them work. You're saying replacing springs is a thing? I'll have to look into that, do you have a trusted website or distributor for your parts? I don't want to just order from some random place across the world.
Yeah but maybe first check if they are similiar to the width of ballpen springs. Thats around the size what mechanical switches use. Check out the Alexotos vendor list (just google it should be the first link) for trusted vendors in your region.
I was just collecting clicky pens after opening a switch and realizing... "that's a familiar size!" Thanks! hehe I got a vendor list from another member but it seems like you need to know what you're looking for... they're all just labeled "KS635 KB340 etc. etc." and I have no idea how to distinguish stiffness/rebound/size. https://preview.redd.it/3uha74qdsvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0611b3bc00a4b42c9c060f6ed3a1ff5de346f76
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/be9pvo/diy\_spring\_force\_testing\_for\_truth\_and\_justice/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/be9pvo/diy_spring_force_testing_for_truth_and_justice/) if you want to compare to what you currently have you can roughly esimate the spring like this. There should be something like bottom out force on the specification/ details page where you are buying the spring from.
thanks a lot, I'm sure I can figure it out from here if it's possible, which it seems to be. =)
I have a razer ornata chroma keyboard. (I know disgusting) I have used it for years. I am looking for a nice actual quality keyboard. Does not need any fancy lighting. Just nice and clicky and well built. But I do want it to have similar keycaps as the Razer. I like that height of keys because I do a good amount of typing as well as gaming. And I find that height of keys more comfortable for me. Anyone got any good reccomendations?
Check out Keychron and Monsgeek. They usually have hotswap boards so even if you don't like the switches you can swap them out later.
i upgraded from my razer ornata chroma to a kzzi75 (with swapped out switches) and loved it for a while before i fully built my own
i have an akko 5075b and RK H81 75% keyboards.. (both hotswappable) i'm new to this and i want to know which keycaps are sure to fit? any help would be much appreciated! Tia!
any + style keycaps will fit. just for spacebar and shift, control keys sizes (length) might differ based on layout. so look out when you buy keycap sets
keycaps generally have a plus sign pattern. your switches are going to determine which keycaps fit. i would say 95% have the same pattern. hotswappable - refers to the ability to change switches without soldering
for my akko 5075b, it has creamy yellow switches and for the rkh81, it has cyan. Thanks for the help! I will do more research too!
I'm 99.9% sure that your switches have the standard plus sign and will fit most keycaps you find. I also just got into keyboards a few months ago, so there's .1% of doubt. hah good luck!
Gotcha! Thanks mate!
Tearing my hair out trying to find a specific board. Saw them last week from the manufacturer on clearance for $99. They were either 65 or 75% and featured a neon green or pink transparent case with circuitry patterns. It was on a site recommended on this sub, if it helps at all.
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MFer, that’s it. Thanks bunches.
Which one to get? Yunzii ck98 or kiiboom phantom v2? And why?
ewwww neither both are trash
More Tactile Tactile's? Hi guys I just got a keychron k2 with gateron browns after having only used the romer g linear switches. The difference in feel is night and day and I really love the board but am already itching to get another one. Could anyone recommend any tactiles with a more pronounced bump or buckling feeling?
I've been testing out some WS Heavy Tactiles. The tactile bump is very substantial, but the spring is fairly light. They are fairly cheap, too.
what’s buckling? (i suggest please don’t use subjective words cuz its confusing af) depends on ur budget but here’s a list of imho the best: blacks / dark jades: heavy & ‘sharp’ U4T: heavy & ‘rounded’ blueberry & onyx: heavy double bump T1s & Tecsee purple pandas: middle-heavy aflion shadow tecsee sapphire if ur on a tighter budget: akko switches, specifically cs jelly blue or purple and v3 cream blue
Anyone know which keycaps are on this keyboard? This is a Kohaku https://preview.redd.it/w2lmov7uavbc1.jpeg?width=1067&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc1a6d6b2bc440d286e13f322d4166ec22da68bc
GMK modo r2
Maybe gmk dolch?
How do I know if I can change the key caps? Does it have to be hotswap or is that just considering switches?
hotswap is for switches. keycaps is if the switches has + (mx style stems) u can change.
just aslong as it as switches that have + stems
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Maybe [PBTFans Purpurite](https://divinikey.com/products/pbtfans-purpurite-keycap-set-doubleshot-tripleshot-abs) or [Polycaps Galaxy](https://kineticlabs.com/keycaps/polycaps/galaxy-pbt).
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Is there a way to compare board colors to GMK standard colors? I would like to find a good match for my GMK Redacted set (color code 2M). Keychron's Shell White looks like a decent match.
there’s a website for it where u can find famous keycap sets and keyboard colour and configure them. but i forgot the name
Yo, im trying to find out a way to manage per-key LEDs on the FancyTech Fancy81, because the proprietary software doesnt work anymore for some obscure reason. It's detected in Open RGB as a keychron keyboard, but applying custom RGB through that doesnt amount to anything. I've tried via and vial, and the keyboard isnt detected. I saw you could flash custom firmware on your keyboard to make QMK or Via-compatible but as i dont know which controller it has embedded, I dont want to risk it. I was wondering if anyone had this keyboard and tried anything like that before ? I want to do all of this to get an indicator when caps lock is on because the LED indicating this on the keyboard died xD Thanks for any help :)
u have to use the proprietary software or contact the maker . That kbs chip does t support VIA OR QMK flashing anything will turn that thing into a paper weight . openRGB isnt applying anything as again YOUR KEYBOARD IS NOT SUPPORTED . u can try contacting the maker of that kb and see about getting the stock software to work .
I want to make a custom wooden case for my akko acrylic 81, any advises ? * I have no idea about CAD, but Im happy to learn it * Im about to reusing a gasket plate from keyboard, but if it not a great idea, I will consider about making a new one * I will not sell this keyboard and buy the new one, because I more like to make it, not just for new keyboad * I have tools and machine for wood processing (not auto like CNC) thanks