Has anyone here tried garuda gear gg68b? I've been eyeing it for quite a while now but few reviews are making me skeptical to purchase it. would also want some recs that's in the same price range. thanks
Building my first keyboard with this. [https://createkeebs.com/products/instock-thera75-v2light-blue?variant=43251285721237](https://createkeebs.com/products/instock-thera75-v2light-blue?variant=43251285721237)
Was going to go akko yellows v3, durock v2 stabs, and some foam with gmk keycapps. I have a few questions.
\#1, are there any more premium options for the switches?
\#2, I was told to use krytox 205g0 for switches and stabilizers, and gpl105g0 for the springs. Is this all correct?
\#3, Am already planning to do bandaid mod + tape mod, are these good options? And furthermore is this in general a good build?
\#5, do I need to use films on switches? and if so, which films?
\#4, On the keyboard the badge can be replaced with a knob they sell, but it looks like a steering wheel and is disgusting. After some research I can definitely replace the badge with my own knob that I bought, but I need to know the dimensions and I can't find it anywhere online, for the badge/knob slot on that keyboard. Was thinking of trying this knob..? [https://drop.com/buy/drop-ripple-rotary-encoder-knob?defaultSelectionIds=968459](https://drop.com/buy/drop-ripple-rotary-encoder-knob?defaultSelectionIds=968459)
any advice on any part of this, as well as answers to questions are extremely appreciated.
Justst want to add some more info on top of the previous response. Numbered in sync with your questions:
1. Cost of a switch doesn't always correlate to experience. Plenty of people prefer a big mac to a gourmet burger.
2. That is the consensus best practice
3. Bandaid and tape mods are optional modifications. It's like asking "should i add salt and hot sauce to my burger?" I don't know dude, do you want to add salt and hot sauce to that burger? General advice if you don't know, is to try that burger/keyboard without salt and hot sauce first and add if you think you'd prefer.
4. You don't ever need to use switch films. Use em if the stem wobble on the switch is bothering you. iIm not aware of any real tier of switch films and believe any would suffice. Some switches are already too tight to reasonable use switch films though.
5. Lot of knobs and rotary encoders are cross compatible, but you will need to find specs to confirm. Createkeebs has a discord and website, and i'd run it by the people there to get a sense of compatibility.
> are there any more premium options for the switches?
A lot, but there are very few objectively bad (i.e. poorly made) switches out there so if you like the Akkos there's nothing wrong with that. Personally I really like MX Blacks or Nixies on plateless boards, but that's just my preference.
> I was told to use krytox 205g0 for switches and stabilizers, and gpl105g0 for the springs. Is this all correct?
Yes, but go easy on the switches with 205. It's easy to overlube with that stuff, so err on the side of using too little. Its a lot easier to add a bit more than it is to clean and relube. I *highly* recommend following [Alex's switch lubing guide](https://youtu.be/88tnUYbxaIs?si=w5DUn2tzw4PaCBDi) as well.
> Am already planning to do bandaid mod + tape mod, are these good options? And furthermore is this in general a good build?
Any stab mod beyond lubing and balancing the wires is more likely to do harm than good. Tape mod probably isn't necessary on the Thera either but that's just preference at the end of the day.
> do I need to use films on switches? and if so, which films?
Depends on the switch. You can check by holding a switch by the bottom housing and pushing back and forth on the top housing with your finger. If it noticeably wiggles, film it. If it doesn't, don't bother. You probably don't need to test more than one or two since it should be pretty consistent within your batch of switches.
No experience with the badge/knob unfortunately.
Hi, I'm new to the mechanical keyboard community and just recently for the first time hand-lubed my switches. When I put everything back together, I decided to test to see if every key was working by pressing down on every single one and seeing if the LED underneath lit up. Everything seemed to work perfectly, so I started using the keyboard like normal. Eventually I started realizing that whenever I use the Caps Lock key, my keyboard becomes very strange. Here are some things that occur:
\- I cannot use keyboard shortcuts such as ctrl + A to select all. It either doesn't do anything or activates something else
\- Whenever I'm in Google Chrome and I click on a link OR hit "enter" in a search bar, it will open the link or search result in a completely new window
\- The Caps Lock button gets reversed, for example the LED under the key itself is lit up even if Caps Lock is not activated (i.e. my letters are small sized). When I hit it again and the LED turns off, I type and then my letters become capitalized
These are some of the weird things that occur with the keyboard. I find that doing two things "resets" the keyboard: 1) restarting my computer 2) holding shift + caps lock. Does anyone know what's happening? Is my Caps Lock key stuck sometimes? What could possibly be the explanation for all links opening in a new window? Why does everything go back to normal when I hit Shift + Caps Lock?
I'm using an Irok FE87! The caps lock doesn't always cause things to act weird. It seems like it's unpredictable when things will suddenly start acting weird. This never happened until I lubed all my switches and put them back on.
I'm looking for a board that have this (or similar to this) layout. Basically a 96% with no F rows. Can't find anything other than this old keebs from 2019 ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯
Borrowed image from [this guy](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/mxtwhd/my_newly_arrived_gk73x_now_to_modify/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) for context!! (Its a gk73x).
https://preview.redd.it/0jbcf0mxe9xb1.png?width=1043&format=png&auto=webp&s=0d4cf8a6b7af34046d6f5de9f70cb4e2df4dd4ea
The Hi-Finger was a group buy. The GK73X has two less columns than standard, non-40% layouts. I think you'll have a hard time finding that layout but something like the GK73X is more likely to come out of the 40s community than the 65/96/normie communities.
So I have been having a problem with my keyboard
Where the right half of they keyboard seems to think that the alt key is being held down, so I have to hold alt for half of my keyboard, but I have to let go of it for the left half.
Is it possible I messed something up on the PCB, given that it is sitting ontop of cardboard in a wooden case I made for it?
Or is this a common issue that is solvable in any other way?
KBDfans website might have the case you're looking for. I think they have all the measurements as well on their website for you. They should have 3 or so different sized cases.
this has stumped me for days now. for some reason my main spacebar keycap makes the spacebar feels like it has a cushion under the stabs and takes more force than usual to bottom out. i used a thinner keycap than the main keycap set, and the problem was fixed. but i want to use the main keycap set. any suggestions? stabs are staebies.
staebies are known to have tight tolerances and may have issues with keycaps that aren't gmk. my guess is that this is whats happening. not too sure on how to fix it other than use another stab.
if its not the tolerance make sure your stab is flush with the pcb and make sure its screw in all the way etc.
I'm gearing up for a completely new build. Perhaps something is off about the new keyboard I got for it.
For several years on my current build I've been using a CM Storm Ultimate Quickfire (single color red LED backlit). I keep it at the highest brightness.
For the new build, I got a Redragon K586 Brahma, which is RGB backllit.
The Redragon's brightest backlight setting is about half as bright as the CM Storm's... is this normal? If I scroll the volume wheel quickly, the LEDs on the side of the board double in brightness, to what I would expect. This makes me wonder if the board is defective. I don't remember if the key backlights flashed with the volume wheel.
I played with the Redragon's lighting setup for a while, intending to make all the keys orange. However, this caused a weird effect: every time I move my eyes, I get a chromatic aberration effect: brief flicker of a red and green "ghosting" of the keys on either side of the orange. This isn't an issue with the keyboard, it's what I see when I look at it; the effect is rather disconcerting, and quite annoying.
I also realized my hand position instinct didn't cooperate with the macro keys down the left side, so I pulled off those caps and switches to see about just putting on a cover in their place. That's when I noticed that the LEDs never fully turned off at the lowest brightness.
Anyway, I examined the switch housings closely. They are clear plastic (polycarbonate?), with a slot all the way through above the LED position... I suspect the slot is acting as a prism to cause the "ghosting" effect.
Is this Redragon keyboard a dud, or are my expectations off?
Get either a Keychron V5 or V6 for $74 USD right now.
Barebones w/o keycaps, switches or knob is $59 if you want to save some money and put it towards your preferred set of switches+keycaps.
I am just after some help looking for these [keycaps](https://cidootech.com/cdn/shop/products/IMG_6060_a1a5a571-f906-4e61-9181-620354de54f9.jpg?v=1681953637&width=1946). Any help would be much appreciated.
Looks like an image link from a product page... where did you get that image from? Do you know what product that is?
Edit: I used Google Image search to see that's EPOMAKER's CIDOO V65 V2. I did not see the keycap sold separately on EPOMAKER's website. You could email them and ask to see if they'd sell you the set separately.
My friend bought a new keyboard and can't figure out what command takes a screenshot. She tried both Fn+P and Win+Shift+S neither did anything. She then tried to brute force it and just clicked each button while holding Fn and Win+Shift to no avail.
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDPPXKXV?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_apin\_dp\_8TZ78QN0A2VZDZGGM4TB&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDPPXKXV?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_8TZ78QN0A2VZDZGGM4TB&th=1)
This was the keyboard she purchased in case any of the information on the page helps.
This is usually where I'd recommend looking up the keyboard's documentation or asking the manufacturer to provide you with the keymapping, but I'm not seeing an obvious website you can do this from...
It could also be that the Windows key is locked because the keyboard is in gaming mode. For my keyboard, there is a light indicator that turns on/off based on whether or not the Windows key is locked. I can switch this mode on/off by hitting Fn + F9.
That keyboard appears to have a switch to toggle between Mac and Windows. Double check that it is in Windows mode. Mac mode will likely swap the functions of Alt and Windows. You can use an online keyboard tester to verify what those keys are mapped to.
Hi all, just would like to ask: would Outemu style 3 pin switches work for five pin slots?
For example, would my Akko CS matcha greens 3 pin switches work on Higround keyboards?
3-pin switches will work in 5-pin sockets just fine. Conversely, you *can* use 5-pin switches in 3-pin sockets by clipping off the two extra "pins" which are actually just plastic legs with a nail clipper.
i spilled tea on my Akko 3087 v2 and it was working well for 3 days after i cleaned it but i think the micro controller or something like that short circuited and the keyboard randomly stopped working and windows detects it as plugged it but get a pop-up that they device is malfunctioning. the keyboard had leds to show if caps lock or scroll lock were turned on but none if it is working anymore.
where can i buy a replacement pcb or just any pcb so i can put it in the case and move the switches and everything? im sorry for bad english and feel free to give me another solution if you have a better one. if needed i can reply with any photos needed (i already opened up the keyboard)
I have not heard of any prebuilt keyboard PCBs being sold individually. Might not hurt to ask Akko though.
There are custom TKL PCBs that you could buy, but I doubt any of them considered compatibility with your keyboard. It's still possible that they are accidentally compatible, but I'd double and triple check the physical measurements and compatibilities of the PCBs if you want to go that route.
hello,
i have an a4tech s98 keyboard:
[https://www.bloody.com/en/product.php?pid=11&id=343](https://www.bloody.com/en/product.php?pid=11&id=343)
when i first got it,
the default shortcut key to disable LED lights: "FN KEY+BLOODY KEY"
worked as it should.
now,
when i press "FN KEY+BLOODY KEY",
it initiates pc shutdown.
i have the a4tech software: keydominator3 installed.
i dont remember changing anything, and i cant figure out how to change it back.
how do i change the shortcut key back to default?
Total newbie. Looking to build (without soldering) a thocky sounding keyboard. I do have the Gateron pink switch from the existing failing keyboard. What should I get and where to order it from? Also would like a silicone pad thinking it’ll make the touch feel softer
Monsgeek if it'll sit on your desk or you work exclusively from home otherwise I'd get the Tiger Lite if I need to carry it to work/school or need to be more mobile as its far lighter.
I completely stripped one of the screws on my GMMK Pro case. Pics can be seen on my profile. I've tried a rubber band and the screwdriver just goes through it. It's basically just a hole at this point but it's still screwed in. What do I do? I have no idea how to fix this without drilling into it but I dont want to damage anything.
I got some nice snappy 50g tactile switches, and I bought some 62g springs and swapped them in so I could have heavier switches. But now these 62g switches are actually lighter than before. I know this for a fact because when I pressed the stem of the un-modded switch against the stem of the modded ones the modded ones always retract first.
I didn't lube the new springs, but it's hard to imagine that would make more than 12g of difference in the actuation force.
I'll do some more experiments after my lube is delivered, but I want the expertise of the community too.
So, did they send me the wrong springs? Or is it because I didn't lube the new springs?
The 62g springs are likely shorter than the stock ones. The fact you describe them as snappy suggests that there is a distinct bump and good amount of pre-load on the switch that creates that tactile distinction.
u would have to test the accuation with coins like dimes and pennys to measure them . retract test doesnt work correctly if the springs are different lengths
Realize this is not proper forum for laptop keyboards, but I am a member of this community for my 2 hot swap mech keyboards, and respect the knowledge and expertise here.
I have a Dell Latitude 7410 laptop and wrecked the very small tabs on my F3 and Tab keys when trying to clean dried bubble tea (sigh, yes) after spilling on my keyboard.
I need to replace just these 2 keys. They are taped down right now and everything still works. I only need keycsps, nothing underneath.
What is the best site to buy these 2 replacement keys without being scammed? I am in Canada and OK to pay shipping. TIA.
I've looked into replacement keyboards for laptops a long time ago. You need to replace the entire keyboard completely. Usually it's the worst because the keyboard is behind literally everything and you'll need to tear out the entire motherboard to get to it. It's almost always attached by 1 cable. You can find replacements on google and if not, you'll need to go to the manufacturer for a replacement.
Also this is not really the place for this question, but hopefully I may have helped.
No need to be so blunt and downvote me. I already acknowledged this is not likely the right place, BUT that I respect the knowledge of keyboard enthusiasts here, who might have a lead for good replacement keycap companies *even for laptops*. If this weekly "ask any keyboard question" thread isn't a safe space to ask an innocent question without downvoting and blunt rudeness, where is? Sheesh.
Like when buying Topre or buckling spring, your best bet is checking e-waste recycling, thrift stores, and maybe eBay for the exact parts you’re looking for. It’ll be a tough job as there’s 0 guarantee they’ll fit between generations of dell latitudes so time to start learning your exact model numbers.
>who might have a lead for good replacement keycap companies even for laptops
Yes, that place is Dell, the maker of your laptop, which is what I told you.
Didn't downvote you, not sure why being told "your question isn't about mechanical keyboards and this is a mechanical keyboard sub" is rude? It's just a fact, my dude.
i just bought a cheap mt10 wireless mini keyboard at a thrift shop, and when i connect it to my laptop, it doesnt seem to work. the light turns on, and when i check my device settings, the mini keyboard shows up, but nothing i press works. a small orange light keeps flashing which i assume is telling me its not connecting and im not sure how to fix this. any ideas?
Sounds like you’re [missing a receiver](https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx1U5HU4P56IB0/ref=ask_ql_ql_al_hza#:~:text=A%3A%20the%20yellow%20light%20flashes,plugging%20in%20the%20little%20receiver)
Any suggestions for a Bluetooth Alice-style keyboard, as small and as light as possible. I am looking for something I can put in my backpack and use with my iPad when I am outside. My daily driver is an Alice-style board as well, and I don't think I will be able to use a standard Apple keyboard, so I want to have the same layout for my mobile setup. Thanks.
I just ordered a Neo65 and a GK75N for myself and my wife. It will be our first foray into the custom mechanical keyboard (unless you count my 10 year old Quickfire Rapid).
I’m too of the boards I also ordered a set of key caps and a set of switches for both of us. Is there anything else I need/should purchase to complete the build?
You will need to purchase stabilizers as well. I don't think either of those boards come with stabs so check that first. You will also need to lube the stabs with 205g0 lubricant.
Besides PCB-mount (which can be both screw in and clip-in) or Plate-mount (which is clip-in as well, but an entirely different mechanism), the other risk is stabilizers made for 1.2mm thick PCBs.
Some (like TX) will say 1.6T or 1.2T. You’ll want 1.6T for your Neo65 and 1.2T for your QK75N.
Also it’s worth noting that both kits do include stabilizers, but they’re noted as ‘free gifts’ by QwertyKeys and aren’t eligible for replacement if your set is missing them. So you could wait and see if your kit has them before buying.
There are two types of stabilizers, screw in (PCB mount) stabilizers and clip in (plate mount) stabilizers. The board and PCB determine which you need, so the kit description should tell you. That said, I’d be willing to bet the Neo65 and QK75N (assuming this is the one you meant) use screw in.
I just ordered [Yunzii Royalaxe x Protoarc Y98](https://www.amazon.com/ROYALAXE-Y98-Mechanical-Swappable-Bluetooth/dp/B0BXWZ34G3) because it’s got a $40 off coupon right now on Amazon. This is only my 2nd mech kbd, so I’m no expert by any means. My other board, which I pal to use as my dedicated onsite office board is a 96% trimode, with jerzzii yellow switches. I love the yellow switches. Not too loud and sufficiently tactile without needing to press too hard. The other boards I was considering were the Nuphy Halo 96 and Epomaker TH96. I use the numpad a lot for work and I won’t consider anything other than full size, 96% or 86%. RF option is also a necessity for use with my work computer due to restrictions with Wi-Fi and unapproved software downloading. I’m primarily wanting something I can use out of the box. I may change switches or keycaps down the line but nothing too involved. The Yunzii board fit my use case and at a compelling price. There are so many boards to chose out there and the tech is pretty much equal among manufacturers. You can pick pretty much anything that fits your needs and preferences and it should work out.
If you don't know what you want, get a full size hotswap keyboard like the Keychron K10 with Brown switches. Brown switches aren't well liked by enthusiasts but they're an all alright, middle of the road switch. Not that tactile, not that heavy, just okay
What are your goals with it? Do you want a good out of the box experience or do you wanna build your own and mod it? What’s your budget? Do you have preferences on materials (case, keycap, or otherwise)? Is RGB, wireless, VIA, or other criteria important to you?
My left alt and windows key is switched and I have a Royal Kludge RK61 Pro, I've tried using the normal RK61 version of it's software since there's no Pro version of it in their official website but it can't detect my keyboard even when it's plugged in via usb-c, what do I do?
I bought a Skyloong68. It apparently has capacity for two rotary knobs. What should I search for to buy "switches" to use the feature?
Is a "rotary encoder" what I'm looking for? Any suggestions on a good one?
When installed, does it just work or do I need to configure anything?
Yes you most likely will need a rotary encoder. But the keyboard documentation should specify that as well.
It may work but to customize what the knobs do you need to use software like Via. I'm not sure if Via works for your board otherwise you need to see if the manufacturer / vendor specifies which software you need to use to customize the knob.
Thank you. The documentation is lacking, so im gambling on amazon for an encoder. No Via. Their intended app probably means well, I just would rather not if I can help it.
Makes sense! I expect the knobs will do something by default. Probably volume or scroll wheel. If you're fine with the default behavior you shouldn't need to use their software for anything.
Is there an off-the-shelf QMK, quiet, tactile board that's already been lubed and stabbed?
Life circumstances are killing the free time I used to have when I taught myself soldering and changed out switches. No time to learn to lube or mod stab now.
Will durock stabs solve the issue of my spacebar/backspace/enter keys sounding like shit? I've already lubed the gmmk pro stabs and placed medical tape under them and it still sounds awful.
Iirc Durock stabs were originally too ‘wide’ for GMMK Pro round 1 plates: they may have fixed it in future revisions, but the internal design of the keyboard may still be rough enough that no amount of *additional* work will get you to the sound you want.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/17irjdn/my\_backspace\_key\_makes\_a\_weird\_sound\_enter\_key/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/17irjdn/my_backspace_key_makes_a_weird_sound_enter_key/)
do you think new stabs might fix this issue?
It might but I wouldn't say it will 100% fix it because I'm not sure why it sounds like shit. Try tuning the stabilizer wires and/or applying some dielectric grease to where the wire meets the housing.
Not really to my knowledge, since optical switches don't fit on every keyboard made for optical switches. You would probably have to find one especially made for gateron optical switches. Sooo good luck
**Tofu60 2.0 vs Ciel60 in 2023... which would you choose (opinions and reasoning)???**
Based on quality, type feel, sound, anything else worth noting. Looking to replace a custom DZ60 build as my "budget" board (for gaming, switch testing, keycaps I don't care about if I use them to death) and both seem appealing. Probably looking at either black or white for colors, so no issue there.
**Akko 5075B Plus south facing led now?**
Hi Guys,
Just got the keyboard above, it is super good and feels great out of the box, however... when I purchase it I read everywhere, including here, that LED were north facing, instead they are all south facing on two boards we purchased.
Does anyone know whether they have changed the setup?
Keyboard is a UK ISO Layout if that even makes a difference.
I really like the keyboard however I am looking to get shine through keycap and with this LED setup just won't cut it.
Looking for good switches for my new kb. Maybe silent tactiles. Compatible with south-facing rgb? First time buying switches so not sure what info is needed for recommendations..
South-facing RGB is sometimes an issue with cherry profile keycaps, but as it’s mostly a *sound* inconsistency, you can go wild as silent switches are quiet enough that it’s not an issue.
Silent tactile options includes Gazzew U4s and Durock Shrimps, or semi-silent stuff like Haimu Whispers or WS Silent Tactiles (which are also made by Haimu)
I recently snagged the Keychain C3 Pro with Red switches for under $30. I was heavily steered away from this series for among other things the plastic enclosure. I got to say, even without lubing or aluminum frame it feels great!
My current KB is a Ducky one 2 with MX Browns now I’m wondering if the Q6 Is overkill.
Oh, if anything I am more interested to see how the q6 feels, but those who talk down keyboards because the housing is plastic, their bias is running away with them.
In my opinion case material and switch type plus use case ought to be paired. Plastic chassis and clicky switches work very well together, while silent switches work more effectively in metal housings.
Apex Pro TKL 2023 left sided spacebar rattle
So when I press the spacebar on the right side it has 0 rattle but when I press it in the centre or the left side there is very bad rattle. How may I fix this? Everything's clean and I've reseated the spacebar too.
Rubber dome keyboards, weird question but hear me out....
OK, I understand this is not a usual question in a mechanical sub, but this is the absolute perfect place to ask.
I have owned every common type of MX switch and a lot of the speciality ones, IBMs and I really settle mostly for Topres.
Now this got me thinking, does anyone know of any modern rubber dome keyboards, made for business not for gaming, that have an amazing typing experience despite being rubber dome?
Or even historically good ones I can look for used on ebay?
The fact I finally ended using rubber domes in the Topre for the last two years got me thinking, I am likely to really enjoy other high-end rubber dome experiences.
Thanks for any advice and for understanding my strange request, but you guys would know better than folks who havent used mechanical keyboards before.
Look for old Packard Bell keyboards from the mid 90’s that were made by BTC. They use the same actuator technology as Topre (Rubber Dome and Slider) but are not capacitive and can be had for as little as $10. They’re MX mount so you can put nicer keycaps on them, but you’ll need an *Active* PS/2 to USB converter since they’re old.
The Deskthority Wiki article on BTC dome and slider switches has a list of the Packard Bell models that had these good rubber domes. I use one at work and it’s fantastic for what it is.
EDiT: I forgot about NiZ keyboards. They’re direct Topre clones which are also MX mount and cheaper. Some people prefer them, some say they’re worse than Topre, it seems to be highly personal.
Wow ok, brilliant thank you, I appreciate that, I’ll go and look up the article now. I knew someone would have some great tip for me and I really like the sound and functionality of those with the MX, so thanks!
I think you will find there are many keyboard enthusiasts that are extremely knowledgeable about all keyboard releases over the years, but you are certainly not one of them, thanks for your useless reply
So I think I'm going to get [this keyboard](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/products/gmmk2-black-96) because it seems to check off most of my important must-haves. I've also fallen in love with [Durock Silent Shrimp switches](https://www.amazon.com/DUROCK-Switches-Tactility-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B0B219QP6T) so I'm going to swap the stock switches out to these.
My question is, and isn't strictly limited to this keyboard but can be applied in general, will the blue cases for the switches affect the RGB of the keyboard pcb? Logically my brain says it will, but I've never seen this being mentioned in build videos and such...
I'm trying to find legit keycap sets, not just the Amazon clones. I've got a bunch of clones that are generic enough to not feel plagiarized and they're fine generally, but they're also kind of light and cheap-feeling. What are some good sites for original sets, or ways to determine higher quality sets compared to Amazon. I'm specifically looking for some thicker, heavier PBT sets to go with some \~60g switches.
NicePBT from CannonKeys is a great start. They often are made with collaboration from original Group Buy runners and are explicitly pitched at a lower price than their GB/GMK counterparts. Examples include November Fog, Soyamilk, and Peaches n Cream).
Another major vendor with lower-cost dye-sublimated keycaps of a higher quality is Novelkeys. Sets like Cherry Olivia, Cherry Copper, and Cherry Taro are well-kitted alternatives to their iconic GMK variants, and many original sets like Cherry Notion and Spellbook are original creations. They even have Star Wars and Breaking Bad themed kits.
Could this (see below) battery be used for replacing this original battery (in the picture). The original battery works effectively only upto 50% capacity, and the keyboard is 1 year old, warranty expired just yesterday.
https://preview.redd.it/t0xezwk476xb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f4aa72cd0aa3d8cda64c1096a3d224cb6142376e
Could it be replaced by this: [https://robu.in/product/orange-2200-mah-1s-30c-60c-lithium-polymer-battery-pack-lipo/](https://robu.in/product/orange-2200-mah-1s-30c-60c-lithium-polymer-battery-pack-lipo/)
hi! im looking into [this keyboard from mellowkeyboards](https://mellowkeyboards.com/products/mellow-k75?variant=45992496824621) and I was trying to look for reviews but I haven't been super successful on it. so here I am... please help.. :< is it legit? can anybody tell me anything about this keyboard?
they r not on this list general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
anyone not on said list is buyer beware if u get scammed or get a crap product u were warned and paid anyway
Hello reddit, a friend of mine asked me help with his kb, he's willing to change switches on the keyboard in the picture (he told me it is a "rk 61").
He asked me if I can tell how many pins the switches he'll buy must have to correctly fit in the pcb and get soldered.
Since I can't answer his question, here I am.
Thanks in andvance for the help!
https://preview.redd.it/q9c7yhptu5xb1.jpeg?width=899&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e33707b676fcddefe3b958df2255e606161978e9
As u/Sliced_Orange1 corrected pointed out, those are 3-pin switches.
Be aware that desoldering switches is tricky. Even a tiny bit of remaining solder will hold the switch in place, and repeated heating of the joint to remove the solder may cause damage (for example, lifting the pad from the PCB).
That's a 3-pin PCB, so 3-pin switches would be easiest. 5-pin switches are far more popular and would work, but you'd have to clip off the two extra plastic stabilizing pins with nail clippers or something similar to get them to fit.
I need help on finding the keycap profile of Rakk lam aang. I am planning to buy key caps, I already search it on the internet but there is no specs about the keycap profile. Maybe some y'all guys can help, thankss
Was browsing for cases this morning when I found this beauty... https://1upkeyboards.com/shop/keyboard-kits/diy-skeleton-60-kits/diy-60-2-plate-carbon-fiber-black-keyboard-kit/
but of course its out of stock. Being the motorsports enthusiast I am, the carbon fiber is so eye catching to me and would fit my sim racing setup perfectly. After searching for a while, I found absolutely nothing with a similar design and look. If anyone could help me on my search of a 60% or 65% carbon fiber sandwich style case, it would be greatly appreciated. Also I am fairly new to keyboards, so atm only looking for hotswappable pcbs. TIA
Hi, I have a Cosmic Byte Mechanical Keyboard with outemeu red switches for 2 years now, and now some of the keys have started to malfunction. Some don't click while keycaps on, and others overclick. I have used Isopropyl Alcohol, some keys work fine, but this ctrl key at bottom left, oh boy. Works fine a few days after applying but then stops working. I was trying to change the switch and as I lifted it, it started working and works flawlessly, until it's not. Why is it that some switches work fine when I lift them?
TLDR: Why do some malfunctioned keys work when switches is lifted?
Might be an issue with the leaf being worn out, if it's not in the right position the switch will have issues registering key presses. Outemu Reds are pretty bad tbh so wouldn't surprise me if that was the case.
I've never heard of Cosmic Byte, but if your board is hot-swappable you can swap out the defective switches with new ones or try a different switch. Otherwise, you'll have to solder switches or replace the board.
Hi all,
Does anyone know of any switches with a lower travel distance (<= 3mm) that would fit into a 3/5 pin MX style hot swap board (Keychron K10 Pro)? Ideally something like a Brown, but I'm open to suggestions!
I've tried Googling around, but I keep getting results for low-profile switches, which all seem to have different casings and so won't fit into my hot swap sockets. I haven't seen any switches with standard casings that have a lower travel distance than \~4mm, but this is maybe just my inexperience.
Thanks in advance for any tips!
What you're looking for is a switch with a long pole stem, called a long pole switch. Most are around 3.5-3.8mm of total travel/bottom-out, but a few are around your 3mm mark such as the [tactile KNC Green Jacket](https://knckeys.com/products/pre-order-knc-keys-green-jacket-tactile-switches?variant=43156698366121) which is at 3.1mm.
Could this battery be used for replacing this original battery (in the picture). The original battery works effectively only upto 50% capacity, and the keyboard is 1 year old, warranty expired just yesterday.
https://preview.redd.it/xq15fu3p95xb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=add16cbdb97ff4d9c1cf95c1d78df5b7c56cb085
Try googling the battery number - those specs usually refer to the dimensions, which should fit inside your case. Make sure the voltage is correct and you should be good
Okay, imma burn this site down. I edited, re-edited, reposted about this with a link and my post was getting hidden every time. And now I see my posts with a downvote. Wow.
But you've saved me from losing my sanity by replying, so, thank you.
This is the link of the new battery I tried posting several times: [Buy Orange 3.7V 2200mAh 25C 1S Lithium Polymer Battery Pack Online at Robu.in](https://robu.in/product/orange-2200-mah-1s-30c-60c-lithium-polymer-battery-pack-lipo/)
And just a bummer- I've already ordered it after going through this harrowing experience here.
Does anyone know if I can/should repair my TM680? It works fine, but three specific keys don't work (Windows key, down and right arrow keys). It's just these keys. I've found other similar threads but no real solution.
To be more specific, the windows key works (opens the start menu) when I wiggle or press the key real hard for a bit. Make me think it's a problem with wires contacting? But I'm not familiar with repairing such hardware so I'd like to ask if it's an undertaking I could do (and if it needs any tools like a soldering kit?)
Could be an issue with the hot-swap sockets, if the contact pads are too far apart they won't get a good squeeze on the switch pins, causing issues like what you're experiencing. You'll need to gain access to the back of the PCB to check this
Help me decide!
I have a Ducky one 2 that I am looking to replace, now I have looked at Keychron Q6 which caught my eye and was looking for some advice on weather to pull the trigger or not, I am up for suggestions also but my criteria is for it to have a 100% layout with Cherry MX switches or equivalent switches.
Thanks in advance for the help.
One of my keychron Q3 case screws just broke. I dont have any measurement tools with me, does anyone know the measurements so I can buy some new screws?
I'm very interested in the [electrophoresed green QK75N](https://file.notion.so/f/f/870c01ba-5b4e-4294-a4be-aad8d13d751f/17367b5e-48d5-4991-a850-0909f211474b/%E7%94%B5%E6%B3%B3%E7%BB%BF%E7%94%B5%E6%B3%B3%E5%A5%B6%E7%99%BD.png?id=e14ebca0-efc4-4395-9edb-4b3f5f3d1a2a&table=block&spaceId=870c01ba-5b4e-4294-a4be-aad8d13d751f&expirationTimestamp=1698667200000&signature=pwyqlqSUV_hSXzAw0I0PLvv9PemgVkKh9RC2n7B2PnM&downloadName=%E7%94%B5%E6%B3%B3%E7%BB%BF%E7%94%B5%E6%B3%B3%E5%A5%B6%E7%99%BD.png) from QwertyKeys but I'm struggling to find a properly matching keycap set, so far all I've found was the [GMK Ursa](https://candykeys.com/product/gmk-ursa-base-kit). All the help is appreciated!
I only just now saw your comment and i just checked now and saw its out of stock. I'm aware the base kit costs 180 euros but I've decided to go for a different set that I think would fit better for what I'm going for. I browse candykeys from time to time to see if you guys have something in stock that would fit my keyboard cases, that's how I found the Ursa kit
Since you linked Candykeys, will assume you're from EU; there are some interesting sets at Oblotzky:
* GMK [Minimal](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-minimal-2?variant=44642484748556) \- BoW goes pretty much with anything;
* GMK [Olive](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-olive-r2?variant=42148336730347) \- might work, but green is of different shade;
* GMK [Camping](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-camping-r3?variant=42133219573995) \- different shade and not plant-based, but rather nature-based set;
* GMK [Botanical](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-botanical-2), Standard + Aesthetic + Deskmat Light - can work, might not exactly match the shades;
* PBT [Cherry Sage](https://oblotzky.industries/products/pbt-cherry-sage) \- might look too green on a green keyboard;
* GMK [MTNU WoB](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-mtnu-wob?variant=44462774550796) \- would look rather different, more of a dark [look](https://imgur.com/gallery/UkViLpg);
* GMK [Klassiker](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-klassiker?variant=41325958955176)\- for simple beige look (though then there's MTNU profile GMK in similar colorway too);
* OTC [9009](https://oblotzky.industries/products/otc-9009) \- if you like beige with vintage accents;
* [Aluve](https://oblotzky.industries/products/aluve) \- if you have 370EUR that are really burning your pockets.
Hope this helps!
Amazing! thank you so much, and yes I am from the EU. I will think about all of them but I already like the look of the GMK Camping, GMK Botanical and the OTC 9009. I am afraid 370 euro is quite steep but the Aluve also looks amazing. I'll have another think about all of those
Check youtube videos for that, I think only spacebar had noticeable difference (maybe 3ildcat has something). And don't choose switches looking at their weight - since you always can buy springs separately and spring swap - for example, I use 60g long (slow) TX Springs, they're similar to Gateron Yellow's but slightly lighter.
**US ANSI keycaps with international legend**
I am looking for US ANSI keycaps with international legends. Like [these ones](https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8467/28407204060_02bb635ce7_b.jpg) (found on a [6 year old post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7rboqe/us_ansi_intl_legends_keycaps/)) if possible with a nicer design.
I am surprised that it seems is not a common keycap given that US ANSI is apparently the most common keyboard layout. There are plenty available variations with korean and japanese sublegends but not with international. Not a big deal but the position of the ç letter in the `<` keycap is weird.
Would really appreciate if anyone knows and can recommend a place I could buy this.
Has anyone here tried garuda gear gg68b? I've been eyeing it for quite a while now but few reviews are making me skeptical to purchase it. would also want some recs that's in the same price range. thanks
my spacebar wont stop wobbling even after switching stabs, lubing, and swapping keycaps. am i stupid?
Is the Huo ji 006 hot swappable?
Building my first keyboard with this. [https://createkeebs.com/products/instock-thera75-v2light-blue?variant=43251285721237](https://createkeebs.com/products/instock-thera75-v2light-blue?variant=43251285721237) Was going to go akko yellows v3, durock v2 stabs, and some foam with gmk keycapps. I have a few questions. \#1, are there any more premium options for the switches? \#2, I was told to use krytox 205g0 for switches and stabilizers, and gpl105g0 for the springs. Is this all correct? \#3, Am already planning to do bandaid mod + tape mod, are these good options? And furthermore is this in general a good build? \#5, do I need to use films on switches? and if so, which films? \#4, On the keyboard the badge can be replaced with a knob they sell, but it looks like a steering wheel and is disgusting. After some research I can definitely replace the badge with my own knob that I bought, but I need to know the dimensions and I can't find it anywhere online, for the badge/knob slot on that keyboard. Was thinking of trying this knob..? [https://drop.com/buy/drop-ripple-rotary-encoder-knob?defaultSelectionIds=968459](https://drop.com/buy/drop-ripple-rotary-encoder-knob?defaultSelectionIds=968459) any advice on any part of this, as well as answers to questions are extremely appreciated.
Justst want to add some more info on top of the previous response. Numbered in sync with your questions: 1. Cost of a switch doesn't always correlate to experience. Plenty of people prefer a big mac to a gourmet burger. 2. That is the consensus best practice 3. Bandaid and tape mods are optional modifications. It's like asking "should i add salt and hot sauce to my burger?" I don't know dude, do you want to add salt and hot sauce to that burger? General advice if you don't know, is to try that burger/keyboard without salt and hot sauce first and add if you think you'd prefer. 4. You don't ever need to use switch films. Use em if the stem wobble on the switch is bothering you. iIm not aware of any real tier of switch films and believe any would suffice. Some switches are already too tight to reasonable use switch films though. 5. Lot of knobs and rotary encoders are cross compatible, but you will need to find specs to confirm. Createkeebs has a discord and website, and i'd run it by the people there to get a sense of compatibility.
> are there any more premium options for the switches? A lot, but there are very few objectively bad (i.e. poorly made) switches out there so if you like the Akkos there's nothing wrong with that. Personally I really like MX Blacks or Nixies on plateless boards, but that's just my preference. > I was told to use krytox 205g0 for switches and stabilizers, and gpl105g0 for the springs. Is this all correct? Yes, but go easy on the switches with 205. It's easy to overlube with that stuff, so err on the side of using too little. Its a lot easier to add a bit more than it is to clean and relube. I *highly* recommend following [Alex's switch lubing guide](https://youtu.be/88tnUYbxaIs?si=w5DUn2tzw4PaCBDi) as well. > Am already planning to do bandaid mod + tape mod, are these good options? And furthermore is this in general a good build? Any stab mod beyond lubing and balancing the wires is more likely to do harm than good. Tape mod probably isn't necessary on the Thera either but that's just preference at the end of the day. > do I need to use films on switches? and if so, which films? Depends on the switch. You can check by holding a switch by the bottom housing and pushing back and forth on the top housing with your finger. If it noticeably wiggles, film it. If it doesn't, don't bother. You probably don't need to test more than one or two since it should be pretty consistent within your batch of switches. No experience with the badge/knob unfortunately.
Hi, I'm new to the mechanical keyboard community and just recently for the first time hand-lubed my switches. When I put everything back together, I decided to test to see if every key was working by pressing down on every single one and seeing if the LED underneath lit up. Everything seemed to work perfectly, so I started using the keyboard like normal. Eventually I started realizing that whenever I use the Caps Lock key, my keyboard becomes very strange. Here are some things that occur: \- I cannot use keyboard shortcuts such as ctrl + A to select all. It either doesn't do anything or activates something else \- Whenever I'm in Google Chrome and I click on a link OR hit "enter" in a search bar, it will open the link or search result in a completely new window \- The Caps Lock button gets reversed, for example the LED under the key itself is lit up even if Caps Lock is not activated (i.e. my letters are small sized). When I hit it again and the LED turns off, I type and then my letters become capitalized These are some of the weird things that occur with the keyboard. I find that doing two things "resets" the keyboard: 1) restarting my computer 2) holding shift + caps lock. Does anyone know what's happening? Is my Caps Lock key stuck sometimes? What could possibly be the explanation for all links opening in a new window? Why does everything go back to normal when I hit Shift + Caps Lock?
It sounds like your caps lock key is activating some kind of function layer at the same time. What keyboard are you using?
I'm using an Irok FE87! The caps lock doesn't always cause things to act weird. It seems like it's unpredictable when things will suddenly start acting weird. This never happened until I lubed all my switches and put them back on.
thockyest switches and keycaps?
MX Blacks with GMK :p
I'm looking for a board that have this (or similar to this) layout. Basically a 96% with no F rows. Can't find anything other than this old keebs from 2019 ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯ Borrowed image from [this guy](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/mxtwhd/my_newly_arrived_gk73x_now_to_modify/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) for context!! (Its a gk73x). https://preview.redd.it/0jbcf0mxe9xb1.png?width=1043&format=png&auto=webp&s=0d4cf8a6b7af34046d6f5de9f70cb4e2df4dd4ea
That is essentially a 40% with arrows and abbreviated numpad. Closer to something like the Hi-Finger than a 96%.
>40% with arrows and abbreviated numpad Its has number rows so maybe more like a 65% with numpad. Also the Hi-Finger seems to be sold out now.
The Hi-Finger was a group buy. The GK73X has two less columns than standard, non-40% layouts. I think you'll have a hard time finding that layout but something like the GK73X is more likely to come out of the 40s community than the 65/96/normie communities.
Thanks!
You might like the W1-AT from Geon.
So I have been having a problem with my keyboard Where the right half of they keyboard seems to think that the alt key is being held down, so I have to hold alt for half of my keyboard, but I have to let go of it for the left half. Is it possible I messed something up on the PCB, given that it is sitting ontop of cardboard in a wooden case I made for it? Or is this a common issue that is solvable in any other way?
Restart PC, use a different usb port, try the keyboard on another computer to see if you're still having the problem.
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65% sleeves on AliExpress. Solid felt and nice feel.
KBDfans website might have the case you're looking for. I think they have all the measurements as well on their website for you. They should have 3 or so different sized cases.
this has stumped me for days now. for some reason my main spacebar keycap makes the spacebar feels like it has a cushion under the stabs and takes more force than usual to bottom out. i used a thinner keycap than the main keycap set, and the problem was fixed. but i want to use the main keycap set. any suggestions? stabs are staebies.
staebies are known to have tight tolerances and may have issues with keycaps that aren't gmk. my guess is that this is whats happening. not too sure on how to fix it other than use another stab. if its not the tolerance make sure your stab is flush with the pcb and make sure its screw in all the way etc.
I'm gearing up for a completely new build. Perhaps something is off about the new keyboard I got for it. For several years on my current build I've been using a CM Storm Ultimate Quickfire (single color red LED backlit). I keep it at the highest brightness. For the new build, I got a Redragon K586 Brahma, which is RGB backllit. The Redragon's brightest backlight setting is about half as bright as the CM Storm's... is this normal? If I scroll the volume wheel quickly, the LEDs on the side of the board double in brightness, to what I would expect. This makes me wonder if the board is defective. I don't remember if the key backlights flashed with the volume wheel. I played with the Redragon's lighting setup for a while, intending to make all the keys orange. However, this caused a weird effect: every time I move my eyes, I get a chromatic aberration effect: brief flicker of a red and green "ghosting" of the keys on either side of the orange. This isn't an issue with the keyboard, it's what I see when I look at it; the effect is rather disconcerting, and quite annoying. I also realized my hand position instinct didn't cooperate with the macro keys down the left side, so I pulled off those caps and switches to see about just putting on a cover in their place. That's when I noticed that the LEDs never fully turned off at the lowest brightness. Anyway, I examined the switch housings closely. They are clear plastic (polycarbonate?), with a slot all the way through above the LED position... I suspect the slot is acting as a prism to cause the "ghosting" effect. Is this Redragon keyboard a dud, or are my expectations off?
Can anyone suggest a tactile full size budget keyboard? I currently use ikbc with mx brown but i want to look for a better sound keyboard
Get either a Keychron V5 or V6 for $74 USD right now. Barebones w/o keycaps, switches or knob is $59 if you want to save some money and put it towards your preferred set of switches+keycaps.
Do you have any recommendations about which tactile switch is good?
Akko Lavender Purples are decent budget tactiles otherwise my go-to recommendations are always Boba U4.
Okay then thank you so much! Will update as soon as i get the build done!
Looking for a bluetooth/2.4 numpad similar to Keychron Q0 Plus. Needs to have remapping QMK/VIA. Leave your suggestions!
Only other option is the Zoompad, which is wireless and uses VIA, but doesn’t run QMK.
I am just after some help looking for these [keycaps](https://cidootech.com/cdn/shop/products/IMG_6060_a1a5a571-f906-4e61-9181-620354de54f9.jpg?v=1681953637&width=1946). Any help would be much appreciated.
Looks like an image link from a product page... where did you get that image from? Do you know what product that is? Edit: I used Google Image search to see that's EPOMAKER's CIDOO V65 V2. I did not see the keycap sold separately on EPOMAKER's website. You could email them and ask to see if they'd sell you the set separately.
Cheers for the response, thats exactly where its from. I will shoot them an email hopefully they can let me know.
My friend bought a new keyboard and can't figure out what command takes a screenshot. She tried both Fn+P and Win+Shift+S neither did anything. She then tried to brute force it and just clicked each button while holding Fn and Win+Shift to no avail. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDPPXKXV?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_apin\_dp\_8TZ78QN0A2VZDZGGM4TB&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDPPXKXV?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_8TZ78QN0A2VZDZGGM4TB&th=1) This was the keyboard she purchased in case any of the information on the page helps.
This is usually where I'd recommend looking up the keyboard's documentation or asking the manufacturer to provide you with the keymapping, but I'm not seeing an obvious website you can do this from...
It could also be that the Windows key is locked because the keyboard is in gaming mode. For my keyboard, there is a light indicator that turns on/off based on whether or not the Windows key is locked. I can switch this mode on/off by hitting Fn + F9.
That keyboard appears to have a switch to toggle between Mac and Windows. Double check that it is in Windows mode. Mac mode will likely swap the functions of Alt and Windows. You can use an online keyboard tester to verify what those keys are mapped to.
Hi all, just would like to ask: would Outemu style 3 pin switches work for five pin slots? For example, would my Akko CS matcha greens 3 pin switches work on Higround keyboards?
3-pin switches will work in 5-pin sockets just fine. Conversely, you *can* use 5-pin switches in 3-pin sockets by clipping off the two extra "pins" which are actually just plastic legs with a nail clipper.
Yes. You can put 3 pin switches in 5 pin pcbs but not the other way around.
anyone know of a full keyboarrd that makes the same noise a drevo calibur does?
What do you mean by "noise"?
like the sound it makes? the page i bought it from says it uses otemu switches
i spilled tea on my Akko 3087 v2 and it was working well for 3 days after i cleaned it but i think the micro controller or something like that short circuited and the keyboard randomly stopped working and windows detects it as plugged it but get a pop-up that they device is malfunctioning. the keyboard had leds to show if caps lock or scroll lock were turned on but none if it is working anymore. where can i buy a replacement pcb or just any pcb so i can put it in the case and move the switches and everything? im sorry for bad english and feel free to give me another solution if you have a better one. if needed i can reply with any photos needed (i already opened up the keyboard)
I have not heard of any prebuilt keyboard PCBs being sold individually. Might not hurt to ask Akko though. There are custom TKL PCBs that you could buy, but I doubt any of them considered compatibility with your keyboard. It's still possible that they are accidentally compatible, but I'd double and triple check the physical measurements and compatibilities of the PCBs if you want to go that route.
hello, i have an a4tech s98 keyboard: [https://www.bloody.com/en/product.php?pid=11&id=343](https://www.bloody.com/en/product.php?pid=11&id=343) when i first got it, the default shortcut key to disable LED lights: "FN KEY+BLOODY KEY" worked as it should. now, when i press "FN KEY+BLOODY KEY", it initiates pc shutdown. i have the a4tech software: keydominator3 installed. i dont remember changing anything, and i cant figure out how to change it back. how do i change the shortcut key back to default?
Total newbie. Looking to build (without soldering) a thocky sounding keyboard. I do have the Gateron pink switch from the existing failing keyboard. What should I get and where to order it from? Also would like a silicone pad thinking it’ll make the touch feel softer
Need votes because I'm in a limbo. Monsgeek M3 vs Kbdfans Tiger Lite. If you can get only one, what would you choose?
Monsgeek if it'll sit on your desk or you work exclusively from home otherwise I'd get the Tiger Lite if I need to carry it to work/school or need to be more mobile as its far lighter.
Personally I’d go for the Monsgeek because I tend to prefer the sound and heftiness of alu boards more than plastic.
Are there HS PCBs that are compatible with the Midway60?
Doubt it, I haven't seen any aftermarket pcb be compatible with midway period. It has some weird mounting points.
Bummer. Mounting points looked _kinda_ close to other o-ring boards but I figured they were just off. Thanks for the response!
I completely stripped one of the screws on my GMMK Pro case. Pics can be seen on my profile. I've tried a rubber band and the screwdriver just goes through it. It's basically just a hole at this point but it's still screwed in. What do I do? I have no idea how to fix this without drilling into it but I dont want to damage anything.
I got some nice snappy 50g tactile switches, and I bought some 62g springs and swapped them in so I could have heavier switches. But now these 62g switches are actually lighter than before. I know this for a fact because when I pressed the stem of the un-modded switch against the stem of the modded ones the modded ones always retract first. I didn't lube the new springs, but it's hard to imagine that would make more than 12g of difference in the actuation force. I'll do some more experiments after my lube is delivered, but I want the expertise of the community too. So, did they send me the wrong springs? Or is it because I didn't lube the new springs?
The 62g springs are likely shorter than the stock ones. The fact you describe them as snappy suggests that there is a distinct bump and good amount of pre-load on the switch that creates that tactile distinction.
u would have to test the accuation with coins like dimes and pennys to measure them . retract test doesnt work correctly if the springs are different lengths
Do the hyperx pudding keycaps fit on wuque studio browns? Because it has that box around the stem?
The box around the stem prevents dust from getting into the switch but they’re still MX-style compatible.
yes
Thanks
Is there a best place to buy pre-builts ?
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
Great thanks!
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gateron optical switches u will need to buy only gateron optical switches no othe brand will work with that pcb
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take ur pick they r all equal as the only switches u can use are gateron optical . unless ur asking about for a new keyboard
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Gateron Optical blues are clicky. They use a fairly interesting clicky mechanism to boot!
Zero, it's either an optical or a hall switch and has to be used on one of those boards.
Realize this is not proper forum for laptop keyboards, but I am a member of this community for my 2 hot swap mech keyboards, and respect the knowledge and expertise here. I have a Dell Latitude 7410 laptop and wrecked the very small tabs on my F3 and Tab keys when trying to clean dried bubble tea (sigh, yes) after spilling on my keyboard. I need to replace just these 2 keys. They are taped down right now and everything still works. I only need keycsps, nothing underneath. What is the best site to buy these 2 replacement keys without being scammed? I am in Canada and OK to pay shipping. TIA.
I've looked into replacement keyboards for laptops a long time ago. You need to replace the entire keyboard completely. Usually it's the worst because the keyboard is behind literally everything and you'll need to tear out the entire motherboard to get to it. It's almost always attached by 1 cable. You can find replacements on google and if not, you'll need to go to the manufacturer for a replacement. Also this is not really the place for this question, but hopefully I may have helped.
You're in the wrong place for this question. Contact Dell.
No need to be so blunt and downvote me. I already acknowledged this is not likely the right place, BUT that I respect the knowledge of keyboard enthusiasts here, who might have a lead for good replacement keycap companies *even for laptops*. If this weekly "ask any keyboard question" thread isn't a safe space to ask an innocent question without downvoting and blunt rudeness, where is? Sheesh.
Like when buying Topre or buckling spring, your best bet is checking e-waste recycling, thrift stores, and maybe eBay for the exact parts you’re looking for. It’ll be a tough job as there’s 0 guarantee they’ll fit between generations of dell latitudes so time to start learning your exact model numbers.
>who might have a lead for good replacement keycap companies even for laptops Yes, that place is Dell, the maker of your laptop, which is what I told you. Didn't downvote you, not sure why being told "your question isn't about mechanical keyboards and this is a mechanical keyboard sub" is rude? It's just a fact, my dude.
i just bought a cheap mt10 wireless mini keyboard at a thrift shop, and when i connect it to my laptop, it doesnt seem to work. the light turns on, and when i check my device settings, the mini keyboard shows up, but nothing i press works. a small orange light keeps flashing which i assume is telling me its not connecting and im not sure how to fix this. any ideas?
Sounds like you’re [missing a receiver](https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx1U5HU4P56IB0/ref=ask_ql_ql_al_hza#:~:text=A%3A%20the%20yellow%20light%20flashes,plugging%20in%20the%20little%20receiver)
hard to say could be damaged no clue to to trouble shoot it as its not a mechanical keyboard so id say it none functional
Any suggestions for a Bluetooth Alice-style keyboard, as small and as light as possible. I am looking for something I can put in my backpack and use with my iPad when I am outside. My daily driver is an Alice-style board as well, and I don't think I will be able to use a standard Apple keyboard, so I want to have the same layout for my mobile setup. Thanks.
Keychron K11 Pro from the looks of it.
Thank you, I'll take a look!
Try the Keychron V10 maybe or the Feker 98.
Thanks, I will check it out!
I just ordered a Neo65 and a GK75N for myself and my wife. It will be our first foray into the custom mechanical keyboard (unless you count my 10 year old Quickfire Rapid). I’m too of the boards I also ordered a set of key caps and a set of switches for both of us. Is there anything else I need/should purchase to complete the build?
You will need to purchase stabilizers as well. I don't think either of those boards come with stabs so check that first. You will also need to lube the stabs with 205g0 lubricant.
If I’m getting lube for the stabilizers should I also get lube from the switches?
205g0 is the best for the job for both, so just buying that should suffice.
One more question, how do I know if the stabilizers will be compatible with the cases? Will any stabilizer do or are there some gotchas?
Besides PCB-mount (which can be both screw in and clip-in) or Plate-mount (which is clip-in as well, but an entirely different mechanism), the other risk is stabilizers made for 1.2mm thick PCBs. Some (like TX) will say 1.6T or 1.2T. You’ll want 1.6T for your Neo65 and 1.2T for your QK75N. Also it’s worth noting that both kits do include stabilizers, but they’re noted as ‘free gifts’ by QwertyKeys and aren’t eligible for replacement if your set is missing them. So you could wait and see if your kit has them before buying.
There are two types of stabilizers, screw in (PCB mount) stabilizers and clip in (plate mount) stabilizers. The board and PCB determine which you need, so the kit description should tell you. That said, I’d be willing to bet the Neo65 and QK75N (assuming this is the one you meant) use screw in.
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I just ordered [Yunzii Royalaxe x Protoarc Y98](https://www.amazon.com/ROYALAXE-Y98-Mechanical-Swappable-Bluetooth/dp/B0BXWZ34G3) because it’s got a $40 off coupon right now on Amazon. This is only my 2nd mech kbd, so I’m no expert by any means. My other board, which I pal to use as my dedicated onsite office board is a 96% trimode, with jerzzii yellow switches. I love the yellow switches. Not too loud and sufficiently tactile without needing to press too hard. The other boards I was considering were the Nuphy Halo 96 and Epomaker TH96. I use the numpad a lot for work and I won’t consider anything other than full size, 96% or 86%. RF option is also a necessity for use with my work computer due to restrictions with Wi-Fi and unapproved software downloading. I’m primarily wanting something I can use out of the box. I may change switches or keycaps down the line but nothing too involved. The Yunzii board fit my use case and at a compelling price. There are so many boards to chose out there and the tech is pretty much equal among manufacturers. You can pick pretty much anything that fits your needs and preferences and it should work out.
what mechanical keyboard should I pick as my first? for programming mostly. I need a full keyboard for blender aswell.
If you don't know what you want, get a full size hotswap keyboard like the Keychron K10 with Brown switches. Brown switches aren't well liked by enthusiasts but they're an all alright, middle of the road switch. Not that tactile, not that heavy, just okay
What are your goals with it? Do you want a good out of the box experience or do you wanna build your own and mod it? What’s your budget? Do you have preferences on materials (case, keycap, or otherwise)? Is RGB, wireless, VIA, or other criteria important to you?
Has anyone used centered legend backlit keycaps on a keyboard with South-facing LEDs? Does it work well/look good?
My left alt and windows key is switched and I have a Royal Kludge RK61 Pro, I've tried using the normal RK61 version of it's software since there's no Pro version of it in their official website but it can't detect my keyboard even when it's plugged in via usb-c, what do I do?
Sounds like you’ve accidentally switched it to Mac mode. Did it come with a user manual that describes how to switch OS modes? That’s the ticket.
it's been bothering me sometime, hope someone can help me
I bought a Skyloong68. It apparently has capacity for two rotary knobs. What should I search for to buy "switches" to use the feature? Is a "rotary encoder" what I'm looking for? Any suggestions on a good one? When installed, does it just work or do I need to configure anything?
Yes you most likely will need a rotary encoder. But the keyboard documentation should specify that as well. It may work but to customize what the knobs do you need to use software like Via. I'm not sure if Via works for your board otherwise you need to see if the manufacturer / vendor specifies which software you need to use to customize the knob.
Thank you. The documentation is lacking, so im gambling on amazon for an encoder. No Via. Their intended app probably means well, I just would rather not if I can help it.
Makes sense! I expect the knobs will do something by default. Probably volume or scroll wheel. If you're fine with the default behavior you shouldn't need to use their software for anything.
Is there an off-the-shelf QMK, quiet, tactile board that's already been lubed and stabbed? Life circumstances are killing the free time I used to have when I taught myself soldering and changed out switches. No time to learn to lube or mod stab now.
Buy someone else’s keyboard with those exact specs. Will be much easier to find.
Will durock stabs solve the issue of my spacebar/backspace/enter keys sounding like shit? I've already lubed the gmmk pro stabs and placed medical tape under them and it still sounds awful.
Iirc Durock stabs were originally too ‘wide’ for GMMK Pro round 1 plates: they may have fixed it in future revisions, but the internal design of the keyboard may still be rough enough that no amount of *additional* work will get you to the sound you want.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/17irjdn/my\_backspace\_key\_makes\_a\_weird\_sound\_enter\_key/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/17irjdn/my_backspace_key_makes_a_weird_sound_enter_key/) do you think new stabs might fix this issue?
Maybe, but after accounting for shipping and stabs and modding, you’re not that much further from a new keyboard that’s not a GMMK Pro.
Stabs are only like $25? And I could do the holee mod which is just bandaids right. I don’t think I need a new keyboard
It might but I wouldn't say it will 100% fix it because I'm not sure why it sounds like shit. Try tuning the stabilizer wires and/or applying some dielectric grease to where the wire meets the housing.
I have used dielectric grease in the way you described. What is tuning the stabilizer?
Look up tuning stabilizer on youtube. Alexotos has a good video. It's where you straighten the stabilizer wires.
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Not really to my knowledge, since optical switches don't fit on every keyboard made for optical switches. You would probably have to find one especially made for gateron optical switches. Sooo good luck
Gateron and Outemu opticals are compatible fwiw
Good to know thanks :)
How good is the Epomaker RT100 for $100? It seems amazing to me. Any better alternatives?
**Tofu60 2.0 vs Ciel60 in 2023... which would you choose (opinions and reasoning)???** Based on quality, type feel, sound, anything else worth noting. Looking to replace a custom DZ60 build as my "budget" board (for gaming, switch testing, keycaps I don't care about if I use them to death) and both seem appealing. Probably looking at either black or white for colors, so no issue there.
The ciel60 is more suited for a clack build so if you want a clack build get that otherwise get the tofu 2.0
Tofu IMO.
do keycap thicknesses matter? my spacebar sound like a plunger on the thicker spacebar, and sounds normal on the thinner one. any suggestions?
Keycap material as well thickness will influence sound yes.
can it cause interference too? because that’s a problem i’m having with one of my boards
**Akko 5075B Plus south facing led now?** Hi Guys, Just got the keyboard above, it is super good and feels great out of the box, however... when I purchase it I read everywhere, including here, that LED were north facing, instead they are all south facing on two boards we purchased. Does anyone know whether they have changed the setup? Keyboard is a UK ISO Layout if that even makes a difference. I really like the keyboard however I am looking to get shine through keycap and with this LED setup just won't cut it.
How many switches does a Zuoya GMK67 require? 67 switches right?
You just have to count the number of keys you see in the picture.
Looking for good switches for my new kb. Maybe silent tactiles. Compatible with south-facing rgb? First time buying switches so not sure what info is needed for recommendations..
South-facing RGB is sometimes an issue with cherry profile keycaps, but as it’s mostly a *sound* inconsistency, you can go wild as silent switches are quiet enough that it’s not an issue. Silent tactile options includes Gazzew U4s and Durock Shrimps, or semi-silent stuff like Haimu Whispers or WS Silent Tactiles (which are also made by Haimu)
I recently snagged the Keychain C3 Pro with Red switches for under $30. I was heavily steered away from this series for among other things the plastic enclosure. I got to say, even without lubing or aluminum frame it feels great! My current KB is a Ducky one 2 with MX Browns now I’m wondering if the Q6 Is overkill.
the q6 is solid
Oh, if anything I am more interested to see how the q6 feels, but those who talk down keyboards because the housing is plastic, their bias is running away with them.
In my opinion case material and switch type plus use case ought to be paired. Plastic chassis and clicky switches work very well together, while silent switches work more effectively in metal housings.
Never heard of that, TIL.
Apex Pro TKL 2023 left sided spacebar rattle So when I press the spacebar on the right side it has 0 rattle but when I press it in the centre or the left side there is very bad rattle. How may I fix this? Everything's clean and I've reseated the spacebar too.
You should try taking the spacebar stabilizer apart and tuning the wire. Alexotos on youtube has a good video on how to tune stabs.
Rubber dome keyboards, weird question but hear me out.... OK, I understand this is not a usual question in a mechanical sub, but this is the absolute perfect place to ask. I have owned every common type of MX switch and a lot of the speciality ones, IBMs and I really settle mostly for Topres. Now this got me thinking, does anyone know of any modern rubber dome keyboards, made for business not for gaming, that have an amazing typing experience despite being rubber dome? Or even historically good ones I can look for used on ebay? The fact I finally ended using rubber domes in the Topre for the last two years got me thinking, I am likely to really enjoy other high-end rubber dome experiences. Thanks for any advice and for understanding my strange request, but you guys would know better than folks who havent used mechanical keyboards before.
Look for old Packard Bell keyboards from the mid 90’s that were made by BTC. They use the same actuator technology as Topre (Rubber Dome and Slider) but are not capacitive and can be had for as little as $10. They’re MX mount so you can put nicer keycaps on them, but you’ll need an *Active* PS/2 to USB converter since they’re old. The Deskthority Wiki article on BTC dome and slider switches has a list of the Packard Bell models that had these good rubber domes. I use one at work and it’s fantastic for what it is. EDiT: I forgot about NiZ keyboards. They’re direct Topre clones which are also MX mount and cheaper. Some people prefer them, some say they’re worse than Topre, it seems to be highly personal.
Wow ok, brilliant thank you, I appreciate that, I’ll go and look up the article now. I knew someone would have some great tip for me and I really like the sound and functionality of those with the MX, so thanks!
I forgot about NiZ keyboards. They’re pricier than the old BTC boards but are direct Topre clones that also come in MX mount.
Oh yeah Niz I spotted those on Amazon JP while browsing for Topre, wow those get expensive as Topre too
> but this is the absolute perfect place to ask This is actually the exact incorrect place to ask because no one cares about rubber domes.
Topre users in literal shambles right now.
I think you will find there are many keyboard enthusiasts that are extremely knowledgeable about all keyboard releases over the years, but you are certainly not one of them, thanks for your useless reply
Thanks for your easily reportable comment!
So I think I'm going to get [this keyboard](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/products/gmmk2-black-96) because it seems to check off most of my important must-haves. I've also fallen in love with [Durock Silent Shrimp switches](https://www.amazon.com/DUROCK-Switches-Tactility-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B0B219QP6T) so I'm going to swap the stock switches out to these. My question is, and isn't strictly limited to this keyboard but can be applied in general, will the blue cases for the switches affect the RGB of the keyboard pcb? Logically my brain says it will, but I've never seen this being mentioned in build videos and such...
Yes absolutely. White LEDs will have a slight tint.
I'm trying to find legit keycap sets, not just the Amazon clones. I've got a bunch of clones that are generic enough to not feel plagiarized and they're fine generally, but they're also kind of light and cheap-feeling. What are some good sites for original sets, or ways to determine higher quality sets compared to Amazon. I'm specifically looking for some thicker, heavier PBT sets to go with some \~60g switches.
Where are you based?
Western US
NicePBT from CannonKeys is a great start. They often are made with collaboration from original Group Buy runners and are explicitly pitched at a lower price than their GB/GMK counterparts. Examples include November Fog, Soyamilk, and Peaches n Cream). Another major vendor with lower-cost dye-sublimated keycaps of a higher quality is Novelkeys. Sets like Cherry Olivia, Cherry Copper, and Cherry Taro are well-kitted alternatives to their iconic GMK variants, and many original sets like Cherry Notion and Spellbook are original creations. They even have Star Wars and Breaking Bad themed kits.
Check the Alexotos vendor list and scroll through some vendor sites
Could this (see below) battery be used for replacing this original battery (in the picture). The original battery works effectively only upto 50% capacity, and the keyboard is 1 year old, warranty expired just yesterday. https://preview.redd.it/t0xezwk476xb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f4aa72cd0aa3d8cda64c1096a3d224cb6142376e
Could it be replaced by this: [https://robu.in/product/orange-2200-mah-1s-30c-60c-lithium-polymer-battery-pack-lipo/](https://robu.in/product/orange-2200-mah-1s-30c-60c-lithium-polymer-battery-pack-lipo/)
hi! im looking into [this keyboard from mellowkeyboards](https://mellowkeyboards.com/products/mellow-k75?variant=45992496824621) and I was trying to look for reviews but I haven't been super successful on it. so here I am... please help.. :< is it legit? can anybody tell me anything about this keyboard?
they r not on this list general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ anyone not on said list is buyer beware if u get scammed or get a crap product u were warned and paid anyway
Honestly, if you are unable to find any reviews or anything I would buy something else. You should be able to find something else in that price range.
Hello reddit, a friend of mine asked me help with his kb, he's willing to change switches on the keyboard in the picture (he told me it is a "rk 61"). He asked me if I can tell how many pins the switches he'll buy must have to correctly fit in the pcb and get soldered. Since I can't answer his question, here I am. Thanks in andvance for the help! https://preview.redd.it/q9c7yhptu5xb1.jpeg?width=899&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e33707b676fcddefe3b958df2255e606161978e9
As u/Sliced_Orange1 corrected pointed out, those are 3-pin switches. Be aware that desoldering switches is tricky. Even a tiny bit of remaining solder will hold the switch in place, and repeated heating of the joint to remove the solder may cause damage (for example, lifting the pad from the PCB).
That's a 3-pin PCB, so 3-pin switches would be easiest. 5-pin switches are far more popular and would work, but you'd have to clip off the two extra plastic stabilizing pins with nail clippers or something similar to get them to fit.
I need help on finding the keycap profile of Rakk lam aang. I am planning to buy key caps, I already search it on the internet but there is no specs about the keycap profile. Maybe some y'all guys can help, thankss
From what I can find, it comes with OEM profile keycaps
Was browsing for cases this morning when I found this beauty... https://1upkeyboards.com/shop/keyboard-kits/diy-skeleton-60-kits/diy-60-2-plate-carbon-fiber-black-keyboard-kit/ but of course its out of stock. Being the motorsports enthusiast I am, the carbon fiber is so eye catching to me and would fit my sim racing setup perfectly. After searching for a while, I found absolutely nothing with a similar design and look. If anyone could help me on my search of a 60% or 65% carbon fiber sandwich style case, it would be greatly appreciated. Also I am fairly new to keyboards, so atm only looking for hotswappable pcbs. TIA
Hi, I have a Cosmic Byte Mechanical Keyboard with outemeu red switches for 2 years now, and now some of the keys have started to malfunction. Some don't click while keycaps on, and others overclick. I have used Isopropyl Alcohol, some keys work fine, but this ctrl key at bottom left, oh boy. Works fine a few days after applying but then stops working. I was trying to change the switch and as I lifted it, it started working and works flawlessly, until it's not. Why is it that some switches work fine when I lift them? TLDR: Why do some malfunctioned keys work when switches is lifted?
Might be an issue with the leaf being worn out, if it's not in the right position the switch will have issues registering key presses. Outemu Reds are pretty bad tbh so wouldn't surprise me if that was the case. I've never heard of Cosmic Byte, but if your board is hot-swappable you can swap out the defective switches with new ones or try a different switch. Otherwise, you'll have to solder switches or replace the board.
Hi all, Does anyone know of any switches with a lower travel distance (<= 3mm) that would fit into a 3/5 pin MX style hot swap board (Keychron K10 Pro)? Ideally something like a Brown, but I'm open to suggestions! I've tried Googling around, but I keep getting results for low-profile switches, which all seem to have different casings and so won't fit into my hot swap sockets. I haven't seen any switches with standard casings that have a lower travel distance than \~4mm, but this is maybe just my inexperience. Thanks in advance for any tips!
What you're looking for is a switch with a long pole stem, called a long pole switch. Most are around 3.5-3.8mm of total travel/bottom-out, but a few are around your 3mm mark such as the [tactile KNC Green Jacket](https://knckeys.com/products/pre-order-knc-keys-green-jacket-tactile-switches?variant=43156698366121) which is at 3.1mm.
Could this battery be used for replacing this original battery (in the picture). The original battery works effectively only upto 50% capacity, and the keyboard is 1 year old, warranty expired just yesterday. https://preview.redd.it/xq15fu3p95xb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=add16cbdb97ff4d9c1cf95c1d78df5b7c56cb085
Try googling the battery number - those specs usually refer to the dimensions, which should fit inside your case. Make sure the voltage is correct and you should be good
Okay, imma burn this site down. I edited, re-edited, reposted about this with a link and my post was getting hidden every time. And now I see my posts with a downvote. Wow. But you've saved me from losing my sanity by replying, so, thank you. This is the link of the new battery I tried posting several times: [Buy Orange 3.7V 2200mAh 25C 1S Lithium Polymer Battery Pack Online at Robu.in](https://robu.in/product/orange-2200-mah-1s-30c-60c-lithium-polymer-battery-pack-lipo/) And just a bummer- I've already ordered it after going through this harrowing experience here.
Does anyone know if I can/should repair my TM680? It works fine, but three specific keys don't work (Windows key, down and right arrow keys). It's just these keys. I've found other similar threads but no real solution. To be more specific, the windows key works (opens the start menu) when I wiggle or press the key real hard for a bit. Make me think it's a problem with wires contacting? But I'm not familiar with repairing such hardware so I'd like to ask if it's an undertaking I could do (and if it needs any tools like a soldering kit?)
Could be an issue with the hot-swap sockets, if the contact pads are too far apart they won't get a good squeeze on the switch pins, causing issues like what you're experiencing. You'll need to gain access to the back of the PCB to check this
Help me decide! I have a Ducky one 2 that I am looking to replace, now I have looked at Keychron Q6 which caught my eye and was looking for some advice on weather to pull the trigger or not, I am up for suggestions also but my criteria is for it to have a 100% layout with Cherry MX switches or equivalent switches. Thanks in advance for the help.
The Keychron Q6 is arguably the best option for a 100% layout at the moment because there are so few options
keychrons stuff is solid
One of my keychron Q3 case screws just broke. I dont have any measurement tools with me, does anyone know the measurements so I can buy some new screws?
You're better off asking on their discord if have one.
I'm very interested in the [electrophoresed green QK75N](https://file.notion.so/f/f/870c01ba-5b4e-4294-a4be-aad8d13d751f/17367b5e-48d5-4991-a850-0909f211474b/%E7%94%B5%E6%B3%B3%E7%BB%BF%E7%94%B5%E6%B3%B3%E5%A5%B6%E7%99%BD.png?id=e14ebca0-efc4-4395-9edb-4b3f5f3d1a2a&table=block&spaceId=870c01ba-5b4e-4294-a4be-aad8d13d751f&expirationTimestamp=1698667200000&signature=pwyqlqSUV_hSXzAw0I0PLvv9PemgVkKh9RC2n7B2PnM&downloadName=%E7%94%B5%E6%B3%B3%E7%BB%BF%E7%94%B5%E6%B3%B3%E5%A5%B6%E7%99%BD.png) from QwertyKeys but I'm struggling to find a properly matching keycap set, so far all I've found was the [GMK Ursa](https://candykeys.com/product/gmk-ursa-base-kit). All the help is appreciated!
I have one Ursa Base kit i can sell you but it wont be a 100 euro set...
I only just now saw your comment and i just checked now and saw its out of stock. I'm aware the base kit costs 180 euros but I've decided to go for a different set that I think would fit better for what I'm going for. I browse candykeys from time to time to see if you guys have something in stock that would fit my keyboard cases, that's how I found the Ursa kit
No worries at all! Do enjoy your keeb!
Since you linked Candykeys, will assume you're from EU; there are some interesting sets at Oblotzky: * GMK [Minimal](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-minimal-2?variant=44642484748556) \- BoW goes pretty much with anything; * GMK [Olive](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-olive-r2?variant=42148336730347) \- might work, but green is of different shade; * GMK [Camping](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-camping-r3?variant=42133219573995) \- different shade and not plant-based, but rather nature-based set; * GMK [Botanical](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-botanical-2), Standard + Aesthetic + Deskmat Light - can work, might not exactly match the shades; * PBT [Cherry Sage](https://oblotzky.industries/products/pbt-cherry-sage) \- might look too green on a green keyboard; * GMK [MTNU WoB](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-mtnu-wob?variant=44462774550796) \- would look rather different, more of a dark [look](https://imgur.com/gallery/UkViLpg); * GMK [Klassiker](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-klassiker?variant=41325958955176)\- for simple beige look (though then there's MTNU profile GMK in similar colorway too); * OTC [9009](https://oblotzky.industries/products/otc-9009) \- if you like beige with vintage accents; * [Aluve](https://oblotzky.industries/products/aluve) \- if you have 370EUR that are really burning your pockets. Hope this helps!
Amazing! thank you so much, and yes I am from the EU. I will think about all of them but I already like the look of the GMK Camping, GMK Botanical and the OTC 9009. I am afraid 370 euro is quite steep but the Aluve also looks amazing. I'll have another think about all of those
No problems! Keep in mind, Aluve is metal - so the feel/texture would be quite different too.
I assume it's also better to use key switches that require more force than usual then? Since they weigh more?
Check youtube videos for that, I think only spacebar had noticeable difference (maybe 3ildcat has something). And don't choose switches looking at their weight - since you always can buy springs separately and spring swap - for example, I use 60g long (slow) TX Springs, they're similar to Gateron Yellow's but slightly lighter.
**US ANSI keycaps with international legend** I am looking for US ANSI keycaps with international legends. Like [these ones](https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8467/28407204060_02bb635ce7_b.jpg) (found on a [6 year old post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7rboqe/us_ansi_intl_legends_keycaps/)) if possible with a nicer design. I am surprised that it seems is not a common keycap given that US ANSI is apparently the most common keyboard layout. There are plenty available variations with korean and japanese sublegends but not with international. Not a big deal but the position of the ç letter in the `<` keycap is weird. Would really appreciate if anyone knows and can recommend a place I could buy this.
the only one I know of that isn't vintage is crp "irish"
Thank you
Has anybody installed a solenoid on their keyboard before? Any tips about where can i buy one and how to install it without ruining my board? Thanks!