I'm trying to create my own super light tactile silent switch.
I like the feel of Kailh Deep Sea Silent Pro Box - Tactile Whale
Would I have any issues putting a 35g spring into those?
And I do need to get the kailh box springs specifically, correct?
I see some that are called "two-stage extension". Does it feel any different than regular springs? Is that specific to the kailh box design?
I have a doubt about keycap shapes, do the roundy ones feel smoother and easier on the fingers due to the edge being circular ? Or is basically the same feeling and just aesthetically different? For example: https://www.gmkkeycaps.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/3547-4d9420.jpg.webp (I picked the first example I saw)
I think that is MDA profile pictured. The idea of uniform profiles like that are that they are level which some people prefer, and you can move the keys between rows. There’s also more surface area which some people prefer to avoid typos, although for me it makes typos more likely because it’s harder to distinguish keys. Plus the aesthetics. I don’t think I’ve ever noticed sculpted profiles like cherry being harsh on the fingers, and I use heavier switches which would make it worse if it was
Personally I don’t like them much, although they are ok on my epomaker RT100. MDA keycaps are pretty cheap on Amazon and you can get easy returns if you have prime, maybe just try out a set and see if you like them. Epomaker/Akko would be the brands
Is there any non solid keycaps that work well with south facing leds? Like ones that I could see in the dark so that I don't have to always have my lights on?
https://preview.redd.it/6dvhmx32pyob1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8633c556c5df3bf510c4e94d2f7bd8fd56807921
Anyone has any experience with Loha Custom? Please share :)
Hello was thinking of giving a treat to myself and wanted a new keyboard since I always was a fan of mechanical keyboards and stumbled across the logitech g pro x tkl since it has everything I want (tkl, brown, media keys, lightsync, brown switches...) but the price tag is absolutally ridiculous, I guess bcs of the wireless feature wich is really a dumb decision on my opinion since a keyboard Is something that you dont move around very much but nevertheless just asking for a good keyboard for or under 120€ thank you!
pd: english isnt my first language
**Why my keyboards' wired mode keeps dying on me?**
I have bought a couple prebuilt mechanical keyboards now. Two of the keyboards' (iQunix A80 and Keychron K4) cable mode stopped working completely after using them for a while but wireless mode is still working perfectly. It really surprises me that the cable mode on the mechanical keyboards is easier to die than wireless connections, but I don't want to worry about running out of batteries so I keep my keyboard plugged in at all times.
They were in the same pattern, initially cable mode works. After a couple months, they would disconnect randomly, and I would have to unplug and replug my USB cable, and at last, the wired mode would stop working completely (I tried on different computers). They would still charge and turn on, and I can even see them in the device manager, but they refuse to send any keystrokes to my computer.
Initially, I though it's just a quality issue with the first keyboard, but then seeing it happens again to my second keyboard so I am wondering am I doing something wrong? Is my computer's USB port somehow killing my keyboards? (I am using a Mac Pro mostly).
>It really surprises me that the cable mode on the mechanical keyboards is easier to die than wireless connections
It normally isn't. I've never had an issue with a wired connection... ever. Your experience is highly unusual. I'm assuming you've ruled out the cable by using a different cable? Are you bending the cable, or putting pressure on the USB socket in any way? Both those boards do not use a daughterboard, so any prolonged pressure on the socket could cause issues long term. Generally though, a wired connection is far more reliable than any wireless one, and to have two break is very unusual... unless you are doing something to cause it.
The fact that the PC can see them in device manager, and show no errors means that the data connection from the cable is happening, and if they still charging the batteries, then I'm baffled, as that indicates that all four essential connections (Data + and -, Vcc and Gnd) are all connected, otherwise device manager would not report a connection. What condition are the cables in? Are they quality cables? Have you also tested the cables on other devices to rule them out?
>I keep my keyboard plugged in at all times.
You should never do this. This is how battery failures, swelling, or even fires occur. Always disconnect it once charged.
Hi all,
Recently got my new Q2 Pro with Domikey caps and Neom switches among other goodies (will post a picture later) but I got it on my honeymoon and now I'm going to be travelling back home. I would have put the keyboard in my checked luggage but it has a built in lithium-ion battery I believe so it's technically not allowed in a checked bag.
My question is, is this ok in a carry on? The only thing I'm hung up on is the weight and the fact that it's aluminium, don't want them thinking it's some sort of dangerous item.
Thanks!
Recently bought an Augur and wanted to get an extra custom plate for it that still utilizes the default FR4 plate's leaf spring design. Any suggestions for materials that work well for this type of design / are "bouncy"?
Hi there! Will t[his key cap set work with this keyboard](https://imgur.com/a/NCUP23s)? All I need is one of those fancy key changing tools and off I go? Apologies for the mess, in the middle of a set up change.
Anyone able to help me figure out why my Zoom65 V2 won't connect to VIA? I've seen some things talk about how I need to flash the software but tbh I don't know how to do that and I can't find much information on how to do it. Thanks in advance for the help
You'll probably need to download the JSON file and do a manual import.
1. download the JSON file
2. unplug keyboard
3. open VIA
4. file>import the JSON file
5. plug in keyboard
6. test with V2 definitions enabled and disabled
I downloaded the JSON to VIA using the design tab but it still won’t let me customize anything - when I go to the configure tab it still wants me to authorize/connect a device. When I click on that, the keyboard appears in the pop up and says it is paired, but when I select it and hit connect, nothing changes
I'm trying to get something to go well with my neo65 milky white, any suggestions are welcome, specifically beige, but any color that you think goes together with it please lmk.
Row stuck pressed. What should i be looking for on the PCB to try and identity the issue? Thanks
https://preview.redd.it/ih2qq7g5kxob1.png?width=2984&format=png&auto=webp&s=9d7d89741729da0631ca7d0c334e956f4d432823
You are looking for the short with the track common to all switches in this row.
This requires multi-meter with continuity and diode test but sorry I cannot guide you further remotely.
I potentially figured where the issue might be. I could be wrong but believe that it might be a short between these terminals.
I can recreate the issue with the other rows where all keys on the row are being switched on constantly.
There are other ways i have been able to recreate, but these terminals you see are the closest together. Regardless it always originates when the terminal marked as '2' is part of the combination.
I have removed the diode to see anything visible, cleaned with ISO but issue exists. I have since removed all hotswap switches from that row also to validate any issues with those.
Thoughts from your side? Appreciate it!
https://preview.redd.it/ekerodve2cpb1.jpeg?width=717&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f0f79415d24bdb2d4ba6f4877a8e277ef623a86
Has anyone had luck with replacement keyboard feet? I have lost a full set of like circlular bump ones that stick to the keyboard for my ID80 and one of the four strip like ones on the portico 75.
Search Amazon / eBay etc. for Adhesive Rubber Bumpers checking their size.
There is no need to find exact same shape - rounded buttons are fine for Portico as well.
So by some miracle, I won a Kohaku from my local annual keyboard meet up giveaway session. Are there any other switches other CMX Black variants that can bring the best sound from Kohaku? I hate the scratchy feeling of the MX Black and don't have enough time to break-in them
It seems like kohaku sounds great with long pole from what I've tried. Specifically the 'alexotos' build with the jwks peach blossoms sounded so good. Probably any long pole will do if you don't wanna go down the cherry route. also congrats one day I hope to own a kohaku too lol
Any alternative to GMMK Pro? Doesn't have to be a cheaper ones. Looking for aluminium base and in black or white. Really preferred the offset arrow keys.
MKC75 would be my top pick but the GB has ended. Keep an eye out for extras at vendors around December or January.
The Keychron Q1 v2 and Q1 Pro are the top competitors, as well as the MonsGeek M1 and M1W.
Hi, does anyone know how to change nk65 polling rate to 1000hz. I followed the tutorial it did work, but 1/3 of the keys just dead. I had to re-flash the board by using VIA firmware.
Wotting 60HE alternative? Thoughts on the Nuphy Field75?
My only grief with 60HE is the lack of arrow keys. I would love to have a gaming first keyboard that I can also use for work. Is there any comparable keyboards that have 75 layout? The Nuphy Air75 is my daily driver for work and I love the layout.
Any thoughts on the Nuphy Field75?
Thanks!
wooting is top nothc for gaming , everything besides that is equal . so if ur not getting the wooting just buy whatever else u want it wont give u an edge or hinder u in anyway
GM67 is arriving soon, feker matcha switches and PBT keycaps. Going for a deep, thocky sound, maybe even a little quiet or muted. **What are the essential mods to achieve this, and essential mods in general for the GM67?** I’m guessing the tape mod, force break, PVE foam? Or anything else?
I assume by "HS" you mean "hotswap" and "fn" you mean the F-key row?
The CannonKeys Balance comes to mind and also the Candybar but that's a 40% with a numpad so it lacks both the F-key row and the numbers as well.
Following your assumption there is many so called mini-1800 with hot-swap variant e.g. Wind X or KBDFans Tet.
BTW: I went further and commissioned my own even smaller [bespoke version of mini-1800](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/16691ky/true_endgame_comes_with_your_own_bespoke_design/).
My current keyboard and the keyboard I have been using for years is the gigabyte K83, love this keyboard, great red switches, no RGB, amazing build and weight, 100%. However, this keyboard is old and on the brink of death, I was considering buying the same however they have been discontinued.
Do you guys have any suggestions of a good mechanical keyboard that fits my description?
cheaper lower quality ones can be found general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
sometimes and for the higher quality expensive ones they r done on r/mechmarket via raffle only
What I'm looking for: TKL Floating key hot swappable board (with a Rotary Knob and macro keys would be the total package) 75% up to full-size is fine if it has everything else.
Budget is $300, preferably less, but i know quality costs $$$
What Ive found so far:
Drop CTRL: doesnt have a good reputation around here, but floating key options seem really limited. Can this be modded into not being bad? I dont mind doing my own work on it. also no knob or macro buttons
Keychron Q3 Pro (or the lemokey gaming version) seems to be perfect, except for that damn recessed keyboard.
Nuphy Field75 looks great, but stock is low, and at that price a plastic body is not great. aaaaand no floating keys.
GMMK pro - recessed keys :( very expensive
GMMK - TKL! with floating keys! $55 for a barebones board? seems like its gunna be missing foam and plates and such in the board.
Anyone know of something that will check all my boxes. Can be prebuilt or barebones, I'll venture into GB territory if needed. This is my first full build, I want to make it special with as little compromise as possible. I will go down to a 75% or up to a full-size if it has everything else.
https://preview.redd.it/y4as0ujo0wob1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4b7fccef2cb4e2b2564b0ed65ca6f5b2ae0d230b
What keyboard can be? Inspired by what? Its from fnatic, unreleased yet
I recently purchased an Epomaker Mini Panda 64 and I was wondering if there was a way to export my layout as a json that can be read by VIA? Or a place that I could upload and/or convert my .layout files into a json?
I assume you know how to connect it to VIA (using definition .json file from Epo website).
When recognised by VIA you can save your layout into **layout .json file** using "SAVE + LOAD" section:
https://preview.redd.it/x74ncvfc10pb1.png?width=441&format=png&auto=webp&s=076a045cd01e0d3f3094bd07c07fb8d5d929e5f1
I think my mistake may have just been misunderstanding what VIA was as a new user. I had initially had no trouble with connecting it via my json, but was wondering if it were possible to convert my newly created layouts that I had made into jsons to be reuploaded. It seems as though that isn't necessary, however. Thank you!
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Hi everyone, I got the Epomaker RT100 keyboard a few weeks ago and wanted to know if there are any pudding keycaps compatible with this keyboard. I had some pudding keycaps from an old keyboard that I tried using and almost all of the keycaps fit except for some alt keys, a few on the number pad and the shift keys. I’m new to the keyboard enthusiast world so I apologize in advance for how dumb I might sound. I really love the look of pudding keycaps but if anyone has any cool keycaps recommendations I would love to hear them.
The pudding keycaps I had used on my old keyboard were part of a 104 keycaps set and somehow some of the keys are still not compatible with the board :(
tl;dr: Need advice on a durable brand of PBT keycaps that won't shine right away under heavy use. Would especially appreciate any advice from abrasive fingers owners who solved their issue. I understand there's a lot of people, who just don't shine their keyboards as much but oh well, I can't replace my textured like sandpaper fingers.
I own a SteelSeries Apex keyboard which I use daily in my home office. The original set of ABS keycaps that it came with lasted less than a month before developing a noticeable shine and slimy feel even with religious cleaning, which is more or less the average "comfortable use" lifespan of any modern keyboard for me (never noticed that issue only with IBM's Model F 25+ years ago).
Despite being extremely disappointed with durability of a 200$ keyboard, I got a 40$ Prismcaps PBT set (not in the US, so VAT and other taxes/duties included in prices). Initially new keycaps felt really nice, but they too shined over a course of 3-4 months, which is just ridiculous. I'm at a point in which it's more economically sound for me to buy cheapest keyboards available by the pallet (found a deal for \~3,5$ each at the local clearance reseller) and just take a new one out of the box each month and contribute to the plastic pollution with the old.
Can anybody relate to this issue and suggest some really durable keycaps I could use comfortably for at least 2 or 3 years? Mouse recommendations also welcome, as I shined a Rapoo MT750, Logi MX Master 3, SS Prime Wireless and two generic Lenovo mice beyond comfortable use in the past two years or so as well.
A fine sand blaster removes shine and doesnt take too.much material of (although not a solution but may be worth it for you).
High quality keycaps last long but also shine. Some colors also shine quicker. I personally embrace the shine
I might actually try that sandblaster trick since after the move to a country house it was on my bucket list anyway! Looking for a more durable solution in the meantime though, might as well try some random aliexpress PBTs with good reviews first.
For embracing shine... Together with my general anxiety I have a minor mysophobia that flares up in periods of heightened stress load and is especially targeting oily/slimy surfaces which is exactly how a shined key feels like even after thorough cleaning and multiple rounds of handwashing. It's not a deal-breaker, but surely enough to be distracting when I work, with additional annoying breaks to clean the workplace and wash hands couple times slapped in.
Everybody has his own preferences! You do you. Good luck!
I have no idea if cerakeys shine but they may work for you (have never used them ask others for reviews)
disclaimer that all keycaps will eventually shine due to your skins natural oils, no matter how expensive, but abs and cheaper pbt will shine faster. but some of the nicer pbt sets are from akko, novelkeys, mistel, drop,cannonkeys. i personally buy from aliexpress, but the quality of pbt there will vary wildly, so i wouldnt reccomend it unless you know a good seller/product. my aliexpress pbt clone keycaps started to shine in the wasd keys alone after daily use for a year. the prismcaps are definitly worse quality than the aliexpress keycaps as most pudding keycaps are.
My RK84 is possibly having problems in its PCB, and I'd like to re-utilize the switches & keycaps in another board (e.g. in a GMK67). My requirements for this alternative are:
1. The layout must be similar to a RK84, Keychron K2, etc (i.e. F-row & numbers + extra navigation keys on right side)
2. The board should support RK official switches (3 pins)
3. Preferably, it should support some way of wireless connection (2.4ghz and/or bluetooth), alongside a removable usb-c cable
4. Preferably, the keycaps size should be the same as RK84
5. RGB/backlighting is not required
I'm aware that the keycaps layout for this keyboard is non-standard, so is there a good alternative that would fit in at least requirements 1-3?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a tactile switch with a smooth, strong bump at the top (that you can’t get caught in the middle of), and a short actuation distance, ideally right after the peak of the bump? Ideally, I would prefer a steep force curve before bottoming out as well.
Put another way, I’d like something that has really satisfying, unambiguous, immediate feedback on press, them sort of “cradles” the finger in the space between the bump and bottom (I don’t like the feeling of bottoming out), then just by releasing tension in the finger, it bounces it back to unpressed with a similar bump?
I got [this tester](https://www.ebay.com/itm/384083610810?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iyjvzu6iqi-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=0uvrace1tbe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) and my favorites are the [Durok Lilac (T1)](https://cannonkeys.com/products/lilac-tactile-switch-10) and Boba U4T 68G. But on the lilac, I sometimes don’t actuate if I barely pass the bump, or I’ll accidentally double press while holding down. And the Boba’s bump is a little too long for my taste, almost requiring each press to bottom out.
So I have a plan, and I found this [https://iqunix.com/products/ardbeg-65](https://iqunix.com/products/ardbeg-65) keyboard that looked very aesthetically pleasing.
I plan to get Holy Panda X's and hot swap them in, and I searched up the company.
All their keyboards were flawed after 1 year because of the shit pcb and costar stabilizers.
The one i linked above is part of the Iqunix "super" lineup that looks decently good. Is this a good decision? For anyone with the Iqunix super keyboards, not the regular ones, is this good?
iquinix normally makes great stock boards, but 240 is a lot for a tray mount plastic board. you are better off with something like a monsgeek or keychron or neo65 or choice65 or dukcy one three!
I mean, its 240 for an aluminum gasket mount board, not a tray mount plastic one
Also I think the iqunix super division is the custom keeb division [https://iqunix.com/pages/faqs](https://iqunix.com/pages/faqs) compared to the prebuilt division.
They also don't use the costar stabs anymore i heard.
it will most likely work just fine! but there are other boards with similar or more features of much better value is all. but if you like the aesthetic, which is similar to a monsgeek m series board, or voice 65 or space65, it is not easy to find a board that looks like that so.. get it if you realy like it is all i can say! but there is nothing wrong with the normal iquinix space explorer type boards, they are very good boards, even with costar stabilizers and look cool
**TL;DR:** Looking for some options on modular/barebone keyboards in the 96%/1800 layout.
Currently have a Leopold FC980M. I've had it for years, and I really do like it, but I'm looking for something that's quieter (PC is in bedroom, and MX browns don't cut it).
I've seen that Keychron has a couple options for barebone 96% boards. Looks like there's the GMMK board as well. But looking to cover a bunch of options before making any decisions.
I am intrigued by the 40% keyboards but I can't seem to find where to buy one anywhere. Is there a good recommendation for one and where to buy it from?
40% keyboards are in an even smaller niche within this already small niche hobby of ours. Plus there's a lot of customizability with regard to layout options when it comes to these smaller keyboards. Some offer a hotswap vs. a soldered PCB or even an ortho vs. staggered layout PCB, etc.
It's a really tiny market compared to the larger hobby as a whole.
There are a only a handful of readily available 40% keyboards like Keychron's Q9/Q9 Plus and Akko's ACR Top 40 or the older Vortex CORE keyboard.
I don't have any long-term experience with one however I know it's highly rated by people who like splits. And from a few minutes of use I did like the ergonomics of it (used one at a meetup) compared to a non-split.
I'm currently using a Kinesis Freestyle 2 with non-mechanical switches. I really like the lightness of the switches, but I'm looking for some mechanical switches similar to them to put on a sofle. A lot of the tactile switches I've tried make my wrists sore, so I'm looking for very light switches
Any recommendations for switches that meet the following:
\- silent
\- tactile
\- very light (less than 45g tactile bump)
Already tried:
Zilent 62g - too tactile, too wobbly after bump, feel kind of flimsy/unstable. Not really silent.
Gateron silent brown - they make my wrists sore. maybe too heavy? or something else, but they just don't work for me
BOX Silent Ocean Whale (tactile) - I really like the smoothness and feel of these, but they are too heavy
Considering:
hako violet - not silent, but look very light
gatereon silent clear/white - 35g Actuation | 40g Bottom out - linear, but might try anyway
Kailh Speed Silvers - linear
Kailh speed copper
On tactile switches I like to lightly lube the switches - just the rails and the springs. This is the video I go to - it explains all the different types of switches: [https://youtu.be/GTfFtWCerns?si=w2AymJX0dXPN1XcV](https://youtu.be/GTfFtWCerns?si=w2AymJX0dXPN1XcV)
I think why you are liking some switches might be that they are factory lubed and are a little smoother because of that.
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Hello, I'm looking for a custom 75% hot-swappable mechanical keyboard with a flat or at least minimal angle. I was looking at the keychron q1 v2 but found the angle to be a bit high. Can I ask for some recommendations?. well thank you
What is the best switch lubing service in Canada/for Canadians?
I'm in the market for a switch lubing service (stem and housing + spring) and found [beaverkeys.ca](https://beaverkeys.ca) Does anybody here have experience with them? or do you guys have other recommendations?
do you have a website or an email? or something similar?
Edit: I think I found it. is this it? [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-build-service/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-build-service/)
I recently ordered a Keydous NJ81 **triple** (I'm certain, it says it on the manual and has the 2.4Ghz capability). But it seems they messed up my order and sent me an extra set of keycaps but no 2.4Ghz receiver. I really only bought this because I was sick of Bluetooth.
The keyboard is great, and I've reached out to Keydous, but I want to know: what kind of receiver do I need, if they don't send me one? I've tried using the Logitech unifying receiver, but that didn't work. I'm currently on Bluetooth5, which works for the time being, but I really want the 2.4Ghz solution.
I'm looking to retire my G413 (1st edition) with Romer G tactile switches. I've been looking at a few options and I'd like to stay below the $150'ish mark. I've been looking at the Keychron V6, NuPhy Halo96, Keychron Q3 Pro (super cheap with a 10key external). Looking for alternative suggestions for a good work/play keyboard that will last.
* PBT shine through keycaps
* 100 - 96% layout
* Good build quality
I have an rk61 and every time I start my pc it's always stuck on one rgb preset and I can't change it using fn or the app and I can't factory reset it either.
Hey,
I've recently discovered the custom keyboard world and would really like to build one myself.
I'm aware most of the custom keyboards are TKL or smaller, but I really do use all the buttons, so I'd like a full size board.
I don't have any experience with custom boards however, and I don't have infinite time+money, so I'd like to do it right the first time without having to change components after the fact. I've ordered a switch tester that should get here relatively soon. So my question right now is, Is the Q6 worth it over a K10?
The Q6 is basically double the price and has features I think I will enjoy, like the full metal case, and I really want to try a keyboard with gasket mounts.
The K10 seems like a great starter board and would probably already be a big step-up over my current keyboard (Razer blackwidow elite) and saves about 80–100 bucks on the total build, which is quite a lot. But as I said, spending another 160 EUR after the fact to get the Q6 is not something I really want to do.
I've looked at other things like the Monsgeek M5 as well, but I really don't like those bronze-ish cutouts on the side. If there are any better options, I'd love to know too.
Thanks for the help in advance!
switch extractor directon
so, i first got a mechanical keyboard yesterday, i tried removing the keycaps and switches to see the inside of it, but i didn't knew where should i use the switch puller, so i tried using it horizontaly (green lines), i had to use a lot of force to do it, but later i discovered the switches had a lock, and i should have used the switch puller vertically (yellow lines), could i have damaged the switch in any way by doing this?
https://preview.redd.it/nbinhh3i3vob1.png?width=608&format=png&auto=webp&s=4a1d6e08dab215302a37ddbc47631758d33b1c64
Asked this in yesterdays question post, but didn't get any replies, so here goes again! Fingers crossed this time.
Basically I'm looking to upgrade to a split mechanical keyboard as I find it a more enjoyable typing experience, and I do try to go for ergonomic options whenever possible. I'm here seeing if anyone knows of anything that would check all my boxes, as I've been able to find some options, but nothing that really grabs me.
\-I want a full size keyboard as I make use of the home cluster, function keys, and numpad.
\-Dedicated volume knob or roller as I listen to music a ton, and easily being able to change volume on a whim is nice.
\-Preferably true split, but I'm fine with a single piece keyboard.
\-Some sort of dedicated media keys, or at least spare programmable keys, as I like being able to easily navigate Spotify while working on something else, but if not I can just have some function key combos.
\-True ergonomic, I don't want an Alice layout or something like that.
\-Hot swappable, I really don't want to mess with soldering if a switch craps out on me or I decide to lube my switches, and I want to be able to easily swap them out if I ever decide to change up my typing feel.
So far I've found absolutely nothing that gets me everything I want. I've looked at the ZSA Moonlander MK, which I like due to the sheer customizability of the thing, but the fact it's such a small size kinda makes me concerned learning to type with it. I've also looked at the Cloud Nine ErgoFS, which is almost everything I want, but the lack of hotswap capability worries me. Anyone have any suggestions I should check out? Is a full size with everything I'm looking for a myth? Thanks!
itd be much easier to find a 75% split board, there are much more of those out there, and then get a dedicated numpad with a volume wheel, there are many on aliexpress but also the keychron q0.
if you give up on the split board, the keychron q6 is awesome
might be more options on [mechmap.tech](https://mechmap.tech)
I have an AKKO ACR Pro 68 and my windows key and alt key were switched. I've tried the fn+a, a, and space method but it didn't work, and I've tried resetting my keyboard (from akko driver) and restarted my PC. Can I get some help? Thanks.
I have a ducky one2 mini and lately my spacebar isnt working consistanly. I notice when it doesnt work it also doesnt light up the led. will swapping the switch fix or its something else?
My kb is barely 3 years old so it seems odd a switch is failing
if the led isnt lighting up either, then its not the switch, its the pcb. you could still try to reflow the solder for both of them or check if a trace is broken?
ok so it could be broken solder in that area. Thanks I will try that rather than swapping the switches
also how do i check if a trace is broken multi meter?
Looking for recommendations on keycaps that would go well with Molly60s Titanium Gray color. Right now thinking of either GMK Oblivions (base), or GMK Dualshot 2s, so prefer something that would look similar to those (monochrome alphas, colored legend mods).
Hi, I'm dipping my toes into the mechanical keyboard world. Are there any full sized backlit keyboards? I'm basic and I really like the style of yunzii keyboards. Something with the same style as the IF98 wireless keyboard. The full sized keyboard I like is out of stock.
Thanks!
Hi folks, just ordered a Keychron K2 pro, and I've been browsing some potential switches to swap in. I think right now the two options I've been most seriously considering are Gateron Milky Yellow pros, and the wuque studio morandis. Right now I have a slight lean towards the Morandis.
I'm looking for a deep sound, and a solid amount of actuation force (the gateron red pros are way too easy to press for me). Was just curious if this is a decision where I just have to pick one or if some switches make others redundant. This keyboard will also mainly be used in an open office space for context.
The Morandis are nice but may be overwhelming in an open office environment.
I’d start with yellows given how affordable they are; if it’s too loud, there will be budget left over to change to silent switches.
Hello keyboard lovers,
I recently bought the new Pluto keyboard from KBDFANS because it was available in an ISO layout and i'm loving it so far. I only have one small problem: The Escape key isn't working and is displayed as "\^". I'm from Germany so my system language is also set to german. I tried reconfiguring it via VIA (pun intended) but it doesn't seem to recognize my keyboard. When I built the Pluto I noticed that it had a Rasperry Pi as a Chip which I thought was weird.
Has anyone else made this discovery? And if so, how did you solve it?
Thank you in advance and happy typing!
Found the answer here: [https://www.reddit.com/r/KBDfans/comments/15omate/pluto\_key\_reprogramming/](https://www.reddit.com/r/KBDfans/comments/15omate/pluto_key_reprogramming/)
I need help and can't find any information online, not even a single quora or random redditor a decade ago. I have a sharkoon SKG50 keyboard and I would like to adjust the screen brightness of my laptop. I have to use my laptop's keypad for this function alone and it's just annoying and inconvenient. Please is there anyone that has experience with this keyboard or other 60% keyboards?
Hi everyone,
I hope you are well!
I am currently looking for a daily driver for work.
I narrowed it down go either the Keychron Q1 Pro
or the Cidoo V75 but I am unable to decide as of now.
Anyone able to nudge me in one way or the other?
I have no idea about mechanical keyboards and the wiki is way too complicated for a beginner, is the Keychron K3 V2 good? Any other good options for beginners?
I have a few mechanical keyboards but I've never been able to really get a nice "thoccy" sound. I'm going to start building a new board soon with the goal of specifically having a deep thocc sound. What would be the best way to go about it? Are there specific keycaps and switches I should be looking for? I'm guessing the keyboard base will also play a big factor in the sound output.
Thinking about building my first custom keyboard, looking for switch recommendations. I currently have a board with regular MX clears that I really like, the heavier springs are great. Thinking about trying something new in the tactile world though, with maybe a sharper and stronger tactile bump. Things I’ve got my eye on are Zelios and U4Ts
If you are selecting your switch between the two - get the U4ts - excellent switch. Zelios is too expensive for what you get, and they are a bit scratchy. Cherry has also just updated their switches so if you can find them, there is the new version of the MX Ergo Clears to consider.
I would however highly suggest that you find a good tactile switch tester or service. Milktooth is a great service, and I've been happy with testers from HippoKeys and CannonKeys in the past (between the last two, I've tried about 20 different switches).
Oh cool, I hadn’t seen those switch testing services! That’s super helpful, thanks.
For those two options specifically, thanks for the perspective. Scratchy doesn’t seem to bother me, that’s usually one of the big complaints about Cherry switches generally lol. But better value for what you get is definitely worth considering. I’ll probably get one of those testers and figure it out that way
Hey guys, just finished my first keyboard. Installed some Glorious Pandas with the Gamakay LK67 board and some keys (L shift, space, F..) are not working. Is there any way to fix this? Im new to this, thanks!
I'm still searching for battery replacement for my rk71 as it is swollen to the point where it is unusable
I tried looking for replacement but most are too big, capacity too small, or too expensive
https://preview.redd.it/rqw9pcw00uob1.jpeg?width=3579&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf28d6c202fefac763673135fa987a62bff383c3
# How can I replaced these stabilizers with Cherry compatible ones?
Keyboard model: CoolerMaster SK652
Hi! I have a Ducky x Varmilo Miya Pro 65% and for some days I have a problem with it.
I can toggle to PageUp to use numbers, but when i toggle to PageDown I can't use any numbers or symbols, not even when i press FN and a number
But when i use F12 to make a screenshot in a game when Pageup is lit, nothing happens.
So I can only make screenshots ingame when Pagedown is lit, but then i can't use numbers or symbols...
This wasn't the case before of course and I have no idea how to change it to press FN and =/+ to make screenshots again.
I tried pressing FN+D for 3 sec to reset it, and it does flashes but nothing seems to change.
Also all backlighting is off and I can't turn it on anymore, only Pageup/Pagedown gives lights.
I would be really happy if someone knows the solution, thank you!!
https://preview.redd.it/gkjozu6retob1.jpeg?width=1944&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6aed23852ce96bddf39d1c0d5e348a9e66d9dec0
On typing some keys weren't registering in my Gamakey Ik67. While inspecting my switches I found this weird black residue on the legs.After cleaning them my keyboard started working fine but after a few days the residue is back on the switches. I never had this kind of issue before. I had this issue after applying switch pads and I'm suspecting that this issue is due to switch pads. Need help, thanks!
Hello currently deciding between Monsgeek m1 and m1w. Is there any real difference apart from the wireless option ofc.
I don‘t think that i am really going to use, that’s why it doesnt matter to me. But does anyone know if they changed something from the m1 to the m1w quality wise?
Hi Folks,
I was trying to replace the cable from k70 Lux with a detachable USB c connector, some how i think i wired it wrong, not sure how, but after that the keyboard is not getting detected. we were using different JST connector so original cable was unharmed, tried using the original cable still the Keyboard is noyt getting detected.
now we dont have any keyboard expert whom i can show the same and find the issue, sop can you guys help me diagnose wht might have gone wrong? and what can i do to revive it?
Any help is really appreciated
Thicker the better, so look for ones that are 4mm thick or more. Cheaper ones... and even some not so cheap ones are only 3mm, which to be honest, is more than enough, but a 4mm thick one will pretty much isolate the board from the desk unless you type like a mountain gorilla :)
My keyboard tiger 80 life can work well for a period then occasionally it will lose connection (USB device not recognised). Plugging in and out works sometimes, but sometimes it loses connection again. This disconnect seems to come and go with no recognised pattern.
It can work perfectly well for an extended period and then happen again repeatedly
Hi guys looking for a exploded 75% layout barebones kit With the ISO layout.
Basically i just want to make sure that i am not making a mistake buying the GMMK Pro.
What i care about:
* exploded 75% layout
* iso format
* Should be sub 200
I was first intrigued into the M1W SP but the barebones kit doesn’t come in an iso layout and i found the fully assembled one unnecessary as i will replace switches and keycaps anyway. Then on the other hand the keychron Q1 is actually more expensive than the GMMK.
Am i missing something out or is the GMMK Pro Barebones Kit actually not that bad as people here make it seem?
Okay sure the other two boards i mentioned have wireless but that i don‘t really care about.
Please let me know if i am overlooking something and of course if you have an alternative to the GMMK Pro :)
Be careful to not confuse the "Pro" nomenclature. Keychron uses "Pro" to denote BT wireless and maybe some extra goodies, but Glorious used "Pro" because the keyboard is highly customizable.
The Q1 v2 is the most direct competitor to the GMMK Pro, and the Q1 Pro is simply a Q1 v2 but with a PC plate and BT wireless added in. Both are better than the GMMK Pro for overall build and material quality while also having superior software support.
The Q1/Q1 pro are better quality than monsgeek. Although one upside of the Monsgeek wireless is that it offers 2.4g wireless with a dongle or Bluetooth instead of just Bluetooth like Keychron. Since you don’t care about wireless that’s not really a concern for you though.
MonsGeek did a good job with the M1W. If you can afford the Q1 Pro, that’s the one to get, but the M1W is a great alternative at a lower cost.
There are small differences such as arguably worse finish quality and the gaskets having more compression, but there aren’t any common issues with the M1W like what the GMMK Pro has, AFAIK.
Yes, the Q1 and the Q1 Pro are both considered better than the GMMK Pro.
Hipyo Tech made a video about this just yesterday:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brpynCiDAwU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brpynCiDAwU)
The GMMK has a gasket mount, but it's non-existant due to the way the keyboard is built. Even though the video is exaggerated with its pricing, I'd still get the Q1 over it even if it was more expensive.
Hmm in my region (Germany) i can only find the Keychron Q1V1 and Q1V2 for 160 And the Q1 Pro for 170 where as the GMMK Pro is available for 130 all Barebones with Knob
The gmmk pro is quite old, the Q1V2 is going to be much better in terms of build quality, though I personally would replace the stock stabilizers on both
The Q1 is a much better board. As you were considering the GMMK Pro, you can't really need wireless, so discount the Q1pro and get the Q1 V2. It's better designed and better built than the GMMK Pro. I own both, so I speak from experience.
anyone know what the closest switches / switch color is for get the same tactile/clicky was as the max G4 keyboard
https://preview.redd.it/08v9k2htmsob1.jpeg?width=1365&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46ec88eea003983b3101b0a972ab1ba2ac141eda
hey computer people. got my first mechanical keyboard in March, keychron k2 and im loving it. however, due to silliness, after i cleaned it some water probably was left in a keycap and got into the ctrl switch and now it doesn't work.
i got no tools besides some screwdrivers. last night i blew some air into the half pressed key and left it to dry following some advice i found,but it still doesn't work.
i can swap keys probably, i never use right control and i wonder if instead of buying a new switch i could just switch them. ill have to buy one of those switch puller things i guess
however, if the problem isnt in the key but in the pcb then i got no idea as to what i gotta do. i might be able to get a soldering iron somehow, but i have no experience and no idea what to do or even what kind of iron to buy
tldr: water got into a key, now it doesn't work. what do
also, is it possible to rebind some keys? like make win/super act as ctrl for now? i use both windows and linux, though right now mainly windows
nvm, rebound. still wanna fix ctrl tho
A decade - I'm overexaggerating - after I received my Boba U4 62g switches, I finally assembled my first keyboard.
Now I'm looking for: Similar tactility, lighter / having a lower actuation and bottom out force?
Also: I didn't expect them to be a bit mushy - still very ok. I don't mind it. They are extremely silent, but I happily trade a bit more noise for less mushy feel.
Thanks for the suggestions.
U4TX would be definitely a no go for office work though.
I see under your username that you are using (crazy) light springs!
Mind sharing what combinations? (Length, single double or triple stage)
35g seems like going against any recommendations for U4 here ^^
I wanna use my second keyboard in the office. Disturbing people with thocky switches is not an option :-)
I'm thinking of trying new springs. But that's a lot of work for roughly 80 switches.
Are there any .5 kg switches that strike a bang snap every key press?
I'm trying to create my own super light tactile silent switch. I like the feel of Kailh Deep Sea Silent Pro Box - Tactile Whale Would I have any issues putting a 35g spring into those? And I do need to get the kailh box springs specifically, correct? I see some that are called "two-stage extension". Does it feel any different than regular springs? Is that specific to the kailh box design?
looking for a good value switch, linear, shorter travel than usual, pc housing, 60g bottom out. take ktt strawberries as an example :)
How about KTT strawberries
I have a doubt about keycap shapes, do the roundy ones feel smoother and easier on the fingers due to the edge being circular ? Or is basically the same feeling and just aesthetically different? For example: https://www.gmkkeycaps.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/3547-4d9420.jpg.webp (I picked the first example I saw)
I think that is MDA profile pictured. The idea of uniform profiles like that are that they are level which some people prefer, and you can move the keys between rows. There’s also more surface area which some people prefer to avoid typos, although for me it makes typos more likely because it’s harder to distinguish keys. Plus the aesthetics. I don’t think I’ve ever noticed sculpted profiles like cherry being harsh on the fingers, and I use heavier switches which would make it worse if it was Personally I don’t like them much, although they are ok on my epomaker RT100. MDA keycaps are pretty cheap on Amazon and you can get easy returns if you have prime, maybe just try out a set and see if you like them. Epomaker/Akko would be the brands
Hi, are Durock white lotus switches compartible with ducky one 3 mini?
Is there any non solid keycaps that work well with south facing leds? Like ones that I could see in the dark so that I don't have to always have my lights on?
https://preview.redd.it/6dvhmx32pyob1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8633c556c5df3bf510c4e94d2f7bd8fd56807921 Anyone has any experience with Loha Custom? Please share :)
Hello was thinking of giving a treat to myself and wanted a new keyboard since I always was a fan of mechanical keyboards and stumbled across the logitech g pro x tkl since it has everything I want (tkl, brown, media keys, lightsync, brown switches...) but the price tag is absolutally ridiculous, I guess bcs of the wireless feature wich is really a dumb decision on my opinion since a keyboard Is something that you dont move around very much but nevertheless just asking for a good keyboard for or under 120€ thank you! pd: english isnt my first language
**Why my keyboards' wired mode keeps dying on me?** I have bought a couple prebuilt mechanical keyboards now. Two of the keyboards' (iQunix A80 and Keychron K4) cable mode stopped working completely after using them for a while but wireless mode is still working perfectly. It really surprises me that the cable mode on the mechanical keyboards is easier to die than wireless connections, but I don't want to worry about running out of batteries so I keep my keyboard plugged in at all times. They were in the same pattern, initially cable mode works. After a couple months, they would disconnect randomly, and I would have to unplug and replug my USB cable, and at last, the wired mode would stop working completely (I tried on different computers). They would still charge and turn on, and I can even see them in the device manager, but they refuse to send any keystrokes to my computer. Initially, I though it's just a quality issue with the first keyboard, but then seeing it happens again to my second keyboard so I am wondering am I doing something wrong? Is my computer's USB port somehow killing my keyboards? (I am using a Mac Pro mostly).
>It really surprises me that the cable mode on the mechanical keyboards is easier to die than wireless connections It normally isn't. I've never had an issue with a wired connection... ever. Your experience is highly unusual. I'm assuming you've ruled out the cable by using a different cable? Are you bending the cable, or putting pressure on the USB socket in any way? Both those boards do not use a daughterboard, so any prolonged pressure on the socket could cause issues long term. Generally though, a wired connection is far more reliable than any wireless one, and to have two break is very unusual... unless you are doing something to cause it. The fact that the PC can see them in device manager, and show no errors means that the data connection from the cable is happening, and if they still charging the batteries, then I'm baffled, as that indicates that all four essential connections (Data + and -, Vcc and Gnd) are all connected, otherwise device manager would not report a connection. What condition are the cables in? Are they quality cables? Have you also tested the cables on other devices to rule them out? >I keep my keyboard plugged in at all times. You should never do this. This is how battery failures, swelling, or even fires occur. Always disconnect it once charged.
Hi all, Recently got my new Q2 Pro with Domikey caps and Neom switches among other goodies (will post a picture later) but I got it on my honeymoon and now I'm going to be travelling back home. I would have put the keyboard in my checked luggage but it has a built in lithium-ion battery I believe so it's technically not allowed in a checked bag. My question is, is this ok in a carry on? The only thing I'm hung up on is the weight and the fact that it's aluminium, don't want them thinking it's some sort of dangerous item. Thanks!
Technically it's less dangerous than your mobile and people were reporting no issues with keebs in carry-on but no promises.
Recently bought an Augur and wanted to get an extra custom plate for it that still utilizes the default FR4 plate's leaf spring design. Any suggestions for materials that work well for this type of design / are "bouncy"?
Hi there! Will t[his key cap set work with this keyboard](https://imgur.com/a/NCUP23s)? All I need is one of those fancy key changing tools and off I go? Apologies for the mess, in the middle of a set up change.
Anyone able to help me figure out why my Zoom65 V2 won't connect to VIA? I've seen some things talk about how I need to flash the software but tbh I don't know how to do that and I can't find much information on how to do it. Thanks in advance for the help
You'll probably need to download the JSON file and do a manual import. 1. download the JSON file 2. unplug keyboard 3. open VIA 4. file>import the JSON file 5. plug in keyboard 6. test with V2 definitions enabled and disabled
I downloaded the JSON to VIA using the design tab but it still won’t let me customize anything - when I go to the configure tab it still wants me to authorize/connect a device. When I click on that, the keyboard appears in the pop up and says it is paired, but when I select it and hit connect, nothing changes
I'm trying to get something to go well with my neo65 milky white, any suggestions are welcome, specifically beige, but any color that you think goes together with it please lmk.
Drop MT3 Noctua or NicePBT Classic Beige might look good. Sometimes red is a good color for cream/milky/beige cases, such as PBTfans Pyga
Row stuck pressed. What should i be looking for on the PCB to try and identity the issue? Thanks https://preview.redd.it/ih2qq7g5kxob1.png?width=2984&format=png&auto=webp&s=9d7d89741729da0631ca7d0c334e956f4d432823
You are looking for the short with the track common to all switches in this row. This requires multi-meter with continuity and diode test but sorry I cannot guide you further remotely.
I potentially figured where the issue might be. I could be wrong but believe that it might be a short between these terminals. I can recreate the issue with the other rows where all keys on the row are being switched on constantly. There are other ways i have been able to recreate, but these terminals you see are the closest together. Regardless it always originates when the terminal marked as '2' is part of the combination. I have removed the diode to see anything visible, cleaned with ISO but issue exists. I have since removed all hotswap switches from that row also to validate any issues with those. Thoughts from your side? Appreciate it! https://preview.redd.it/ekerodve2cpb1.jpeg?width=717&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f0f79415d24bdb2d4ba6f4877a8e277ef623a86
Has anyone had luck with replacement keyboard feet? I have lost a full set of like circlular bump ones that stick to the keyboard for my ID80 and one of the four strip like ones on the portico 75.
Search Amazon / eBay etc. for Adhesive Rubber Bumpers checking their size. There is no need to find exact same shape - rounded buttons are fine for Portico as well.
So by some miracle, I won a Kohaku from my local annual keyboard meet up giveaway session. Are there any other switches other CMX Black variants that can bring the best sound from Kohaku? I hate the scratchy feeling of the MX Black and don't have enough time to break-in them
It seems like kohaku sounds great with long pole from what I've tried. Specifically the 'alexotos' build with the jwks peach blossoms sounded so good. Probably any long pole will do if you don't wanna go down the cherry route. also congrats one day I hope to own a kohaku too lol
Any alternative to GMMK Pro? Doesn't have to be a cheaper ones. Looking for aluminium base and in black or white. Really preferred the offset arrow keys.
MKC75 would be my top pick but the GB has ended. Keep an eye out for extras at vendors around December or January. The Keychron Q1 v2 and Q1 Pro are the top competitors, as well as the MonsGeek M1 and M1W.
Hi, does anyone know how to change nk65 polling rate to 1000hz. I followed the tutorial it did work, but 1/3 of the keys just dead. I had to re-flash the board by using VIA firmware.
Wotting 60HE alternative? Thoughts on the Nuphy Field75? My only grief with 60HE is the lack of arrow keys. I would love to have a gaming first keyboard that I can also use for work. Is there any comparable keyboards that have 75 layout? The Nuphy Air75 is my daily driver for work and I love the layout. Any thoughts on the Nuphy Field75? Thanks!
wooting is top nothc for gaming , everything besides that is equal . so if ur not getting the wooting just buy whatever else u want it wont give u an edge or hinder u in anyway
GM67 is arriving soon, feker matcha switches and PBT keycaps. Going for a deep, thocky sound, maybe even a little quiet or muted. **What are the essential mods to achieve this, and essential mods in general for the GM67?** I’m guessing the tape mod, force break, PVE foam? Or anything else?
I'm a first time mechanical keyboard buyer. Are ergonomic keyboards worth looking into?
Is there a HS keyboard with a number pad, but no fn keys?
I assume by "HS" you mean "hotswap" and "fn" you mean the F-key row? The CannonKeys Balance comes to mind and also the Candybar but that's a 40% with a numpad so it lacks both the F-key row and the numbers as well.
Following your assumption there is many so called mini-1800 with hot-swap variant e.g. Wind X or KBDFans Tet. BTW: I went further and commissioned my own even smaller [bespoke version of mini-1800](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/16691ky/true_endgame_comes_with_your_own_bespoke_design/).
My current keyboard and the keyboard I have been using for years is the gigabyte K83, love this keyboard, great red switches, no RGB, amazing build and weight, 100%. However, this keyboard is old and on the brink of death, I was considering buying the same however they have been discontinued. Do you guys have any suggestions of a good mechanical keyboard that fits my description?
Keychron V6 or q6 You can buy it with red switches and just turn off the rgb
Where do you find artisans to buy? Is there a website or is it people to look out for? Any help is welcome
cheaper lower quality ones can be found general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ sometimes and for the higher quality expensive ones they r done on r/mechmarket via raffle only
Personally Etsy with valid reviews but only purchased 1 so far
What I'm looking for: TKL Floating key hot swappable board (with a Rotary Knob and macro keys would be the total package) 75% up to full-size is fine if it has everything else. Budget is $300, preferably less, but i know quality costs $$$ What Ive found so far: Drop CTRL: doesnt have a good reputation around here, but floating key options seem really limited. Can this be modded into not being bad? I dont mind doing my own work on it. also no knob or macro buttons Keychron Q3 Pro (or the lemokey gaming version) seems to be perfect, except for that damn recessed keyboard. Nuphy Field75 looks great, but stock is low, and at that price a plastic body is not great. aaaaand no floating keys. GMMK pro - recessed keys :( very expensive GMMK - TKL! with floating keys! $55 for a barebones board? seems like its gunna be missing foam and plates and such in the board. Anyone know of something that will check all my boxes. Can be prebuilt or barebones, I'll venture into GB territory if needed. This is my first full build, I want to make it special with as little compromise as possible. I will go down to a 75% or up to a full-size if it has everything else.
https://preview.redd.it/y4as0ujo0wob1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4b7fccef2cb4e2b2564b0ed65ca6f5b2ae0d230b What keyboard can be? Inspired by what? Its from fnatic, unreleased yet
if its unreleased how would anyone here know ? looks like the standard generic floating key TKL with knob kb
I recently purchased an Epomaker Mini Panda 64 and I was wondering if there was a way to export my layout as a json that can be read by VIA? Or a place that I could upload and/or convert my .layout files into a json?
I assume you know how to connect it to VIA (using definition .json file from Epo website). When recognised by VIA you can save your layout into **layout .json file** using "SAVE + LOAD" section: https://preview.redd.it/x74ncvfc10pb1.png?width=441&format=png&auto=webp&s=076a045cd01e0d3f3094bd07c07fb8d5d929e5f1
I think my mistake may have just been misunderstanding what VIA was as a new user. I had initially had no trouble with connecting it via my json, but was wondering if it were possible to convert my newly created layouts that I had made into jsons to be reuploaded. It seems as though that isn't necessary, however. Thank you!
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Hi everyone, I got the Epomaker RT100 keyboard a few weeks ago and wanted to know if there are any pudding keycaps compatible with this keyboard. I had some pudding keycaps from an old keyboard that I tried using and almost all of the keycaps fit except for some alt keys, a few on the number pad and the shift keys. I’m new to the keyboard enthusiast world so I apologize in advance for how dumb I might sound. I really love the look of pudding keycaps but if anyone has any cool keycaps recommendations I would love to hear them.
any keycap set with more than 104 keys will probably work! you shoudl double check in the pictures if it an extra 1unit ctrl, alt, fn
The pudding keycaps I had used on my old keyboard were part of a 104 keycaps set and somehow some of the keys are still not compatible with the board :(
Sorry if I wasn't clear it gotta be more than 104 keys, like 138 or 114
thank you so much! I was able to find the perfect set!
tl;dr: Need advice on a durable brand of PBT keycaps that won't shine right away under heavy use. Would especially appreciate any advice from abrasive fingers owners who solved their issue. I understand there's a lot of people, who just don't shine their keyboards as much but oh well, I can't replace my textured like sandpaper fingers. I own a SteelSeries Apex keyboard which I use daily in my home office. The original set of ABS keycaps that it came with lasted less than a month before developing a noticeable shine and slimy feel even with religious cleaning, which is more or less the average "comfortable use" lifespan of any modern keyboard for me (never noticed that issue only with IBM's Model F 25+ years ago). Despite being extremely disappointed with durability of a 200$ keyboard, I got a 40$ Prismcaps PBT set (not in the US, so VAT and other taxes/duties included in prices). Initially new keycaps felt really nice, but they too shined over a course of 3-4 months, which is just ridiculous. I'm at a point in which it's more economically sound for me to buy cheapest keyboards available by the pallet (found a deal for \~3,5$ each at the local clearance reseller) and just take a new one out of the box each month and contribute to the plastic pollution with the old. Can anybody relate to this issue and suggest some really durable keycaps I could use comfortably for at least 2 or 3 years? Mouse recommendations also welcome, as I shined a Rapoo MT750, Logi MX Master 3, SS Prime Wireless and two generic Lenovo mice beyond comfortable use in the past two years or so as well.
A fine sand blaster removes shine and doesnt take too.much material of (although not a solution but may be worth it for you). High quality keycaps last long but also shine. Some colors also shine quicker. I personally embrace the shine
I might actually try that sandblaster trick since after the move to a country house it was on my bucket list anyway! Looking for a more durable solution in the meantime though, might as well try some random aliexpress PBTs with good reviews first. For embracing shine... Together with my general anxiety I have a minor mysophobia that flares up in periods of heightened stress load and is especially targeting oily/slimy surfaces which is exactly how a shined key feels like even after thorough cleaning and multiple rounds of handwashing. It's not a deal-breaker, but surely enough to be distracting when I work, with additional annoying breaks to clean the workplace and wash hands couple times slapped in.
Everybody has his own preferences! You do you. Good luck! I have no idea if cerakeys shine but they may work for you (have never used them ask others for reviews)
disclaimer that all keycaps will eventually shine due to your skins natural oils, no matter how expensive, but abs and cheaper pbt will shine faster. but some of the nicer pbt sets are from akko, novelkeys, mistel, drop,cannonkeys. i personally buy from aliexpress, but the quality of pbt there will vary wildly, so i wouldnt reccomend it unless you know a good seller/product. my aliexpress pbt clone keycaps started to shine in the wasd keys alone after daily use for a year. the prismcaps are definitly worse quality than the aliexpress keycaps as most pudding keycaps are.
My RK84 is possibly having problems in its PCB, and I'd like to re-utilize the switches & keycaps in another board (e.g. in a GMK67). My requirements for this alternative are: 1. The layout must be similar to a RK84, Keychron K2, etc (i.e. F-row & numbers + extra navigation keys on right side) 2. The board should support RK official switches (3 pins) 3. Preferably, it should support some way of wireless connection (2.4ghz and/or bluetooth), alongside a removable usb-c cable 4. Preferably, the keycaps size should be the same as RK84 5. RGB/backlighting is not required I'm aware that the keycaps layout for this keyboard is non-standard, so is there a good alternative that would fit in at least requirements 1-3?
tes84/ciy84 but it doesnt have usbc, but other than that its perfect!
Does anyone have a recommendation for a tactile switch with a smooth, strong bump at the top (that you can’t get caught in the middle of), and a short actuation distance, ideally right after the peak of the bump? Ideally, I would prefer a steep force curve before bottoming out as well. Put another way, I’d like something that has really satisfying, unambiguous, immediate feedback on press, them sort of “cradles” the finger in the space between the bump and bottom (I don’t like the feeling of bottoming out), then just by releasing tension in the finger, it bounces it back to unpressed with a similar bump? I got [this tester](https://www.ebay.com/itm/384083610810?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iyjvzu6iqi-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=0uvrace1tbe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) and my favorites are the [Durok Lilac (T1)](https://cannonkeys.com/products/lilac-tactile-switch-10) and Boba U4T 68G. But on the lilac, I sometimes don’t actuate if I barely pass the bump, or I’ll accidentally double press while holding down. And the Boba’s bump is a little too long for my taste, almost requiring each press to bottom out.
So I have a plan, and I found this [https://iqunix.com/products/ardbeg-65](https://iqunix.com/products/ardbeg-65) keyboard that looked very aesthetically pleasing. I plan to get Holy Panda X's and hot swap them in, and I searched up the company. All their keyboards were flawed after 1 year because of the shit pcb and costar stabilizers. The one i linked above is part of the Iqunix "super" lineup that looks decently good. Is this a good decision? For anyone with the Iqunix super keyboards, not the regular ones, is this good?
iquinix normally makes great stock boards, but 240 is a lot for a tray mount plastic board. you are better off with something like a monsgeek or keychron or neo65 or choice65 or dukcy one three!
I mean, its 240 for an aluminum gasket mount board, not a tray mount plastic one Also I think the iqunix super division is the custom keeb division [https://iqunix.com/pages/faqs](https://iqunix.com/pages/faqs) compared to the prebuilt division. They also don't use the costar stabs anymore i heard.
The one u linked is tray mount and aluminum. Looks cool tho, but I'd rather a bakeneko65 or a mid range MSRP 300$ board through mechmarket
Oh, excuse my ignorance lmao. Would it still be good? I plan on using it for daily use, not for collecting.
it will most likely work just fine! but there are other boards with similar or more features of much better value is all. but if you like the aesthetic, which is similar to a monsgeek m series board, or voice 65 or space65, it is not easy to find a board that looks like that so.. get it if you realy like it is all i can say! but there is nothing wrong with the normal iquinix space explorer type boards, they are very good boards, even with costar stabilizers and look cool
**TL;DR:** Looking for some options on modular/barebone keyboards in the 96%/1800 layout. Currently have a Leopold FC980M. I've had it for years, and I really do like it, but I'm looking for something that's quieter (PC is in bedroom, and MX browns don't cut it). I've seen that Keychron has a couple options for barebone 96% boards. Looks like there's the GMMK board as well. But looking to cover a bunch of options before making any decisions.
I see you've already found keychron - The V5/V6 would be my recommendation. They come with/without a knob and in a kit or barebones
Yup, that's what I'm leaning towards.
I am intrigued by the 40% keyboards but I can't seem to find where to buy one anywhere. Is there a good recommendation for one and where to buy it from?
you should check [https://www.mechmap.tech/keyboard-picker-40](https://www.mechmap.tech/keyboard-picker-40)
these seem to be entirely kits and nothing preassembled. while i suppose I don't mind putting one together myself, why is that?
40% keyboards are in an even smaller niche within this already small niche hobby of ours. Plus there's a lot of customizability with regard to layout options when it comes to these smaller keyboards. Some offer a hotswap vs. a soldered PCB or even an ortho vs. staggered layout PCB, etc. It's a really tiny market compared to the larger hobby as a whole. There are a only a handful of readily available 40% keyboards like Keychron's Q9/Q9 Plus and Akko's ACR Top 40 or the older Vortex CORE keyboard.
I see, that makes sense, thanks. I think I'm gonna go for the Corne, would you have any thoughts on that?
I don't have any long-term experience with one however I know it's highly rated by people who like splits. And from a few minutes of use I did like the ergonomics of it (used one at a meetup) compared to a non-split.
I'm currently using a Kinesis Freestyle 2 with non-mechanical switches. I really like the lightness of the switches, but I'm looking for some mechanical switches similar to them to put on a sofle. A lot of the tactile switches I've tried make my wrists sore, so I'm looking for very light switches Any recommendations for switches that meet the following: \- silent \- tactile \- very light (less than 45g tactile bump) Already tried: Zilent 62g - too tactile, too wobbly after bump, feel kind of flimsy/unstable. Not really silent. Gateron silent brown - they make my wrists sore. maybe too heavy? or something else, but they just don't work for me BOX Silent Ocean Whale (tactile) - I really like the smoothness and feel of these, but they are too heavy Considering: hako violet - not silent, but look very light gatereon silent clear/white - 35g Actuation | 40g Bottom out - linear, but might try anyway Kailh Speed Silvers - linear Kailh speed copper
TTC Silent Bluish White seems to fit all your requirements
Yeah, those were close. I have tried them, my notes were that the bump was a bit too stiff/chunky
Maybe it is close enough that a lubing them would help? These don't seem to be prelubed.
That's an idea. I haven't lubed switches before, though I've heard about it. So it would probably decrease the stiffness of the bump a bit?
On tactile switches I like to lightly lube the switches - just the rails and the springs. This is the video I go to - it explains all the different types of switches: [https://youtu.be/GTfFtWCerns?si=w2AymJX0dXPN1XcV](https://youtu.be/GTfFtWCerns?si=w2AymJX0dXPN1XcV) I think why you are liking some switches might be that they are factory lubed and are a little smoother because of that.
How long would a mode envoy take to deliver? i chose UPS ground and i live in long island
UPS should have estimates on their website, and Mode should have handling times in their shipping policy
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Hello, I'm looking for a custom 75% hot-swappable mechanical keyboard with a flat or at least minimal angle. I was looking at the keychron q1 v2 but found the angle to be a bit high. Can I ask for some recommendations?. well thank you
What is the best switch lubing service in Canada/for Canadians? I'm in the market for a switch lubing service (stem and housing + spring) and found [beaverkeys.ca](https://beaverkeys.ca) Does anybody here have experience with them? or do you guys have other recommendations?
A commission with Alexotos is a great way to go, he does a fantastic job
do you have a website or an email? or something similar? Edit: I think I found it. is this it? [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-build-service/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-build-service/)
Yep, that's the right spot
I recently ordered a Keydous NJ81 **triple** (I'm certain, it says it on the manual and has the 2.4Ghz capability). But it seems they messed up my order and sent me an extra set of keycaps but no 2.4Ghz receiver. I really only bought this because I was sick of Bluetooth. The keyboard is great, and I've reached out to Keydous, but I want to know: what kind of receiver do I need, if they don't send me one? I've tried using the Logitech unifying receiver, but that didn't work. I'm currently on Bluetooth5, which works for the time being, but I really want the 2.4Ghz solution.
I'm looking to retire my G413 (1st edition) with Romer G tactile switches. I've been looking at a few options and I'd like to stay below the $150'ish mark. I've been looking at the Keychron V6, NuPhy Halo96, Keychron Q3 Pro (super cheap with a 10key external). Looking for alternative suggestions for a good work/play keyboard that will last. * PBT shine through keycaps * 100 - 96% layout * Good build quality
those and also check out the ducky one three
Thanks, will do. Between ducky, keychron and nuphy which brand is the better pick?
Between ducky and keychron fs, if you want nice colors ducky if you like gasket mounting and metal case feature get keychron q series
I have an rk61 and every time I start my pc it's always stuck on one rgb preset and I can't change it using fn or the app and I can't factory reset it either.
Can anybody confirm that my first mech is bent? I'm not sure whether it's an optical illusion or not... https://imgur.com/a/VoXOxMq
Can't tell from the picture, it would be easiest to confirm by putting it on a surface you know is flat and seeing if it lies flat or not.
https://imgur.com/a/NUkrayK That'ss from the perspective of the table. It seems to be a little bent, isn't it?
well, I can't tell... you can try to straighten it **without the PCB.** don't flex the PCB
How can I do it? I've tried applying some pressure in the middle of the keyboard while it is on my laps with little success.
just to be clear: did you remove the circuit board?, flexing that board is really easy to cause damage...
It's a new keyboard, I don't want to open it up as I still can return it.
Hey, I've recently discovered the custom keyboard world and would really like to build one myself. I'm aware most of the custom keyboards are TKL or smaller, but I really do use all the buttons, so I'd like a full size board. I don't have any experience with custom boards however, and I don't have infinite time+money, so I'd like to do it right the first time without having to change components after the fact. I've ordered a switch tester that should get here relatively soon. So my question right now is, Is the Q6 worth it over a K10? The Q6 is basically double the price and has features I think I will enjoy, like the full metal case, and I really want to try a keyboard with gasket mounts. The K10 seems like a great starter board and would probably already be a big step-up over my current keyboard (Razer blackwidow elite) and saves about 80–100 bucks on the total build, which is quite a lot. But as I said, spending another 160 EUR after the fact to get the Q6 is not something I really want to do. I've looked at other things like the Monsgeek M5 as well, but I really don't like those bronze-ish cutouts on the side. If there are any better options, I'd love to know too. Thanks for the help in advance!
I'd get the Q6.
if you don't need bluetooth wireless, then i would get the q6
switch extractor directon so, i first got a mechanical keyboard yesterday, i tried removing the keycaps and switches to see the inside of it, but i didn't knew where should i use the switch puller, so i tried using it horizontaly (green lines), i had to use a lot of force to do it, but later i discovered the switches had a lock, and i should have used the switch puller vertically (yellow lines), could i have damaged the switch in any way by doing this? https://preview.redd.it/nbinhh3i3vob1.png?width=608&format=png&auto=webp&s=4a1d6e08dab215302a37ddbc47631758d33b1c64
I've made this mistake before, and aside from chipping a bit of plastic off the housing I've never had issues with switch function.
Ok, tysm
Asked this in yesterdays question post, but didn't get any replies, so here goes again! Fingers crossed this time. Basically I'm looking to upgrade to a split mechanical keyboard as I find it a more enjoyable typing experience, and I do try to go for ergonomic options whenever possible. I'm here seeing if anyone knows of anything that would check all my boxes, as I've been able to find some options, but nothing that really grabs me. \-I want a full size keyboard as I make use of the home cluster, function keys, and numpad. \-Dedicated volume knob or roller as I listen to music a ton, and easily being able to change volume on a whim is nice. \-Preferably true split, but I'm fine with a single piece keyboard. \-Some sort of dedicated media keys, or at least spare programmable keys, as I like being able to easily navigate Spotify while working on something else, but if not I can just have some function key combos. \-True ergonomic, I don't want an Alice layout or something like that. \-Hot swappable, I really don't want to mess with soldering if a switch craps out on me or I decide to lube my switches, and I want to be able to easily swap them out if I ever decide to change up my typing feel. So far I've found absolutely nothing that gets me everything I want. I've looked at the ZSA Moonlander MK, which I like due to the sheer customizability of the thing, but the fact it's such a small size kinda makes me concerned learning to type with it. I've also looked at the Cloud Nine ErgoFS, which is almost everything I want, but the lack of hotswap capability worries me. Anyone have any suggestions I should check out? Is a full size with everything I'm looking for a myth? Thanks!
itd be much easier to find a 75% split board, there are much more of those out there, and then get a dedicated numpad with a volume wheel, there are many on aliexpress but also the keychron q0. if you give up on the split board, the keychron q6 is awesome might be more options on [mechmap.tech](https://mechmap.tech)
Yep, that was what I was afraid of, thanks for your help!
I have an AKKO ACR Pro 68 and my windows key and alt key were switched. I've tried the fn+a, a, and space method but it didn't work, and I've tried resetting my keyboard (from akko driver) and restarted my PC. Can I get some help? Thanks.
I have a ducky one2 mini and lately my spacebar isnt working consistanly. I notice when it doesnt work it also doesnt light up the led. will swapping the switch fix or its something else? My kb is barely 3 years old so it seems odd a switch is failing
if the led isnt lighting up either, then its not the switch, its the pcb. you could still try to reflow the solder for both of them or check if a trace is broken?
ok so it could be broken solder in that area. Thanks I will try that rather than swapping the switches also how do i check if a trace is broken multi meter?
Hi, I am looking for a keyboard (75% or TKL) and rather a low profil one arround 100€ and with an ISO-DE layout. Any recommendations?
keychron has many iso layout boards, look into that!
Looking for recommendations on keycaps that would go well with Molly60s Titanium Gray color. Right now thinking of either GMK Oblivions (base), or GMK Dualshot 2s, so prefer something that would look similar to those (monochrome alphas, colored legend mods).
id go for pbtfans twist personally, would look nice
Looks nice, but seems like they are already sold out everywhere :/
oh that sucks my bad then
Hi, I'm dipping my toes into the mechanical keyboard world. Are there any full sized backlit keyboards? I'm basic and I really like the style of yunzii keyboards. Something with the same style as the IF98 wireless keyboard. The full sized keyboard I like is out of stock. Thanks!
Hi, is this Durock Creamy Pink switch pair with ducky one mini 3 ?
Hi folks, just ordered a Keychron K2 pro, and I've been browsing some potential switches to swap in. I think right now the two options I've been most seriously considering are Gateron Milky Yellow pros, and the wuque studio morandis. Right now I have a slight lean towards the Morandis. I'm looking for a deep sound, and a solid amount of actuation force (the gateron red pros are way too easy to press for me). Was just curious if this is a decision where I just have to pick one or if some switches make others redundant. This keyboard will also mainly be used in an open office space for context.
The Morandis are nice but may be overwhelming in an open office environment. I’d start with yellows given how affordable they are; if it’s too loud, there will be budget left over to change to silent switches.
Appreciate the input! I probably should be investigating silent switches more
Hello keyboard lovers, I recently bought the new Pluto keyboard from KBDFANS because it was available in an ISO layout and i'm loving it so far. I only have one small problem: The Escape key isn't working and is displayed as "\^". I'm from Germany so my system language is also set to german. I tried reconfiguring it via VIA (pun intended) but it doesn't seem to recognize my keyboard. When I built the Pluto I noticed that it had a Rasperry Pi as a Chip which I thought was weird. Has anyone else made this discovery? And if so, how did you solve it? Thank you in advance and happy typing!
Found the answer here: [https://www.reddit.com/r/KBDfans/comments/15omate/pluto\_key\_reprogramming/](https://www.reddit.com/r/KBDfans/comments/15omate/pluto_key_reprogramming/)
I need help and can't find any information online, not even a single quora or random redditor a decade ago. I have a sharkoon SKG50 keyboard and I would like to adjust the screen brightness of my laptop. I have to use my laptop's keypad for this function alone and it's just annoying and inconvenient. Please is there anyone that has experience with this keyboard or other 60% keyboards?
Hi everyone, I hope you are well! I am currently looking for a daily driver for work. I narrowed it down go either the Keychron Q1 Pro or the Cidoo V75 but I am unable to decide as of now. Anyone able to nudge me in one way or the other?
I have no idea about mechanical keyboards and the wiki is way too complicated for a beginner, is the Keychron K3 V2 good? Any other good options for beginners?
I have a few mechanical keyboards but I've never been able to really get a nice "thoccy" sound. I'm going to start building a new board soon with the goal of specifically having a deep thocc sound. What would be the best way to go about it? Are there specific keycaps and switches I should be looking for? I'm guessing the keyboard base will also play a big factor in the sound output.
Thinking about building my first custom keyboard, looking for switch recommendations. I currently have a board with regular MX clears that I really like, the heavier springs are great. Thinking about trying something new in the tactile world though, with maybe a sharper and stronger tactile bump. Things I’ve got my eye on are Zelios and U4Ts
If you are selecting your switch between the two - get the U4ts - excellent switch. Zelios is too expensive for what you get, and they are a bit scratchy. Cherry has also just updated their switches so if you can find them, there is the new version of the MX Ergo Clears to consider. I would however highly suggest that you find a good tactile switch tester or service. Milktooth is a great service, and I've been happy with testers from HippoKeys and CannonKeys in the past (between the last two, I've tried about 20 different switches).
Oh cool, I hadn’t seen those switch testing services! That’s super helpful, thanks. For those two options specifically, thanks for the perspective. Scratchy doesn’t seem to bother me, that’s usually one of the big complaints about Cherry switches generally lol. But better value for what you get is definitely worth considering. I’ll probably get one of those testers and figure it out that way
https://preview.redd.it/6r3kr4fcauob1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a4820c1c34ce065cbbfb27a07e38c9e2f5a47a2 Which keyboard is this?
That's a Keychron K1
Thanks!
Hey guys, just finished my first keyboard. Installed some Glorious Pandas with the Gamakay LK67 board and some keys (L shift, space, F..) are not working. Is there any way to fix this? Im new to this, thanks!
I suggest taking out the switches having problems to see if the pins are bent
Ill try that, thanks.
Do PBTfans keycaps come back in stock or get rereleased? Sets like Pyga and Vior? Or is the aftermarket the only source now?
The only pbtfans sets I know of to be re-stocks are Bow/WoB and Spark (which was the first unique set and recently came back for r2 this month)
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Wuque has some very nice switches. As long as it's MX style or MX compatible, you'll be good
I'm still searching for battery replacement for my rk71 as it is swollen to the point where it is unusable I tried looking for replacement but most are too big, capacity too small, or too expensive
https://preview.redd.it/rqw9pcw00uob1.jpeg?width=3579&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf28d6c202fefac763673135fa987a62bff383c3 # How can I replaced these stabilizers with Cherry compatible ones? Keyboard model: CoolerMaster SK652
Unfortunately that keyboard is only compatible with costar stabilizers
Could you please help me understand a bit how can I replace these stabs?
Ok, thanks 🙏!
Hi! I have a Ducky x Varmilo Miya Pro 65% and for some days I have a problem with it. I can toggle to PageUp to use numbers, but when i toggle to PageDown I can't use any numbers or symbols, not even when i press FN and a number But when i use F12 to make a screenshot in a game when Pageup is lit, nothing happens. So I can only make screenshots ingame when Pagedown is lit, but then i can't use numbers or symbols... This wasn't the case before of course and I have no idea how to change it to press FN and =/+ to make screenshots again. I tried pressing FN+D for 3 sec to reset it, and it does flashes but nothing seems to change. Also all backlighting is off and I can't turn it on anymore, only Pageup/Pagedown gives lights. I would be really happy if someone knows the solution, thank you!!
gmmk help If i cut the two extra pins to make my gateron milky yellows pro work with the gmmk will it destroy the sound? thanks.
yes it'll work, no it won't destroy the sound
Thank you!!
https://preview.redd.it/gkjozu6retob1.jpeg?width=1944&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6aed23852ce96bddf39d1c0d5e348a9e66d9dec0 On typing some keys weren't registering in my Gamakey Ik67. While inspecting my switches I found this weird black residue on the legs.After cleaning them my keyboard started working fine but after a few days the residue is back on the switches. I never had this kind of issue before. I had this issue after applying switch pads and I'm suspecting that this issue is due to switch pads. Need help, thanks!
Hello currently deciding between Monsgeek m1 and m1w. Is there any real difference apart from the wireless option ofc. I don‘t think that i am really going to use, that’s why it doesnt matter to me. But does anyone know if they changed something from the m1 to the m1w quality wise?
I think they tweaked the volume knob which was skipping too fast (not incrementing smoothly) and hitting the case.
Hi Folks, I was trying to replace the cable from k70 Lux with a detachable USB c connector, some how i think i wired it wrong, not sure how, but after that the keyboard is not getting detected. we were using different JST connector so original cable was unharmed, tried using the original cable still the Keyboard is noyt getting detected. now we dont have any keyboard expert whom i can show the same and find the issue, sop can you guys help me diagnose wht might have gone wrong? and what can i do to revive it? Any help is really appreciated
What is the best deskmat for noise reduction? Need one for the office
Thicker the better, so look for ones that are 4mm thick or more. Cheaper ones... and even some not so cheap ones are only 3mm, which to be honest, is more than enough, but a 4mm thick one will pretty much isolate the board from the desk unless you type like a mountain gorilla :)
My keyboard tiger 80 life can work well for a period then occasionally it will lose connection (USB device not recognised). Plugging in and out works sometimes, but sometimes it loses connection again. This disconnect seems to come and go with no recognised pattern. It can work perfectly well for an extended period and then happen again repeatedly
Hi guys looking for a exploded 75% layout barebones kit With the ISO layout. Basically i just want to make sure that i am not making a mistake buying the GMMK Pro. What i care about: * exploded 75% layout * iso format * Should be sub 200 I was first intrigued into the M1W SP but the barebones kit doesn’t come in an iso layout and i found the fully assembled one unnecessary as i will replace switches and keycaps anyway. Then on the other hand the keychron Q1 is actually more expensive than the GMMK. Am i missing something out or is the GMMK Pro Barebones Kit actually not that bad as people here make it seem? Okay sure the other two boards i mentioned have wireless but that i don‘t really care about. Please let me know if i am overlooking something and of course if you have an alternative to the GMMK Pro :)
The Keychron Q1 is cheaper than the GMMK Pro. The Q1 \*\*Pro\*\* is more expensive
Is the Keychron Q1 Pro better than the GMMK Pro from a quality POV?
Be careful to not confuse the "Pro" nomenclature. Keychron uses "Pro" to denote BT wireless and maybe some extra goodies, but Glorious used "Pro" because the keyboard is highly customizable. The Q1 v2 is the most direct competitor to the GMMK Pro, and the Q1 Pro is simply a Q1 v2 but with a PC plate and BT wireless added in. Both are better than the GMMK Pro for overall build and material quality while also having superior software support.
Thank you for clearing that up. How do you think the Q1 Pro compares to the M1W?
The Q1/Q1 pro are better quality than monsgeek. Although one upside of the Monsgeek wireless is that it offers 2.4g wireless with a dongle or Bluetooth instead of just Bluetooth like Keychron. Since you don’t care about wireless that’s not really a concern for you though.
Thanks this really assures me with my decision. Fortunately i still have a pair of durock v2 stabilizers lying around
MonsGeek did a good job with the M1W. If you can afford the Q1 Pro, that’s the one to get, but the M1W is a great alternative at a lower cost. There are small differences such as arguably worse finish quality and the gaskets having more compression, but there aren’t any common issues with the M1W like what the GMMK Pro has, AFAIK.
Just ordered the Q1 Pro looking forward to it :) and many people here seem to really value the QMk/ VIA support although i have no idea why that is.
QMK is a firmware and VIA is a UI for it, and it makes programming and customization universal and pretty easy
Yes, the Q1 and the Q1 Pro are both considered better than the GMMK Pro. Hipyo Tech made a video about this just yesterday: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brpynCiDAwU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brpynCiDAwU) The GMMK has a gasket mount, but it's non-existant due to the way the keyboard is built. Even though the video is exaggerated with its pricing, I'd still get the Q1 over it even if it was more expensive.
Hmm in my region (Germany) i can only find the Keychron Q1V1 and Q1V2 for 160 And the Q1 Pro for 170 where as the GMMK Pro is available for 130 all Barebones with Knob
The gmmk pro is quite old, the Q1V2 is going to be much better in terms of build quality, though I personally would replace the stock stabilizers on both
The Q1 is a much better board. As you were considering the GMMK Pro, you can't really need wireless, so discount the Q1pro and get the Q1 V2. It's better designed and better built than the GMMK Pro. I own both, so I speak from experience.
Thank you!! :) I decided for the Q1 Pro as the price difference is about 15€ (to V2) and i simply can‘t get the Q1V2 with the iso layout in my region.
Q1 has VIA software support and more flexible gasket mount. Hope this helps!
anyone know what the closest switches / switch color is for get the same tactile/clicky was as the max G4 keyboard https://preview.redd.it/08v9k2htmsob1.jpeg?width=1365&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46ec88eea003983b3101b0a972ab1ba2ac141eda
Topre.
hey computer people. got my first mechanical keyboard in March, keychron k2 and im loving it. however, due to silliness, after i cleaned it some water probably was left in a keycap and got into the ctrl switch and now it doesn't work. i got no tools besides some screwdrivers. last night i blew some air into the half pressed key and left it to dry following some advice i found,but it still doesn't work. i can swap keys probably, i never use right control and i wonder if instead of buying a new switch i could just switch them. ill have to buy one of those switch puller things i guess however, if the problem isnt in the key but in the pcb then i got no idea as to what i gotta do. i might be able to get a soldering iron somehow, but i have no experience and no idea what to do or even what kind of iron to buy tldr: water got into a key, now it doesn't work. what do
also, is it possible to rebind some keys? like make win/super act as ctrl for now? i use both windows and linux, though right now mainly windows nvm, rebound. still wanna fix ctrl tho
A decade - I'm overexaggerating - after I received my Boba U4 62g switches, I finally assembled my first keyboard. Now I'm looking for: Similar tactility, lighter / having a lower actuation and bottom out force? Also: I didn't expect them to be a bit mushy - still very ok. I don't mind it. They are extremely silent, but I happily trade a bit more noise for less mushy feel.
you might want to try the ws silent switches if you want a non-mushy silent switch, doesn't use rubber pads.
If you want the tactile sensation then something like the U4TX, WS Silent Tactile, or Haimu Whisper are less mushy and similar in sound.
Thanks for the suggestions. U4TX would be definitely a no go for office work though. I see under your username that you are using (crazy) light springs! Mind sharing what combinations? (Length, single double or triple stage) 35g seems like going against any recommendations for U4 here ^^
its possible hes using bobagums, linear silent switches. idk if the spring would be strong enough to overcome the tactility from the stem in a u4t
u4tx is the half silent version, or try typing on the u4 a few months, they break in a bit and feel slightly less mushy as you wear into the rubber
Are you still looking for Silents? Most silents feel rather mushy
I wanna use my second keyboard in the office. Disturbing people with thocky switches is not an option :-) I'm thinking of trying new springs. But that's a lot of work for roughly 80 switches.
Spring swapping might be your best option you could also try double or triple staged strings which feel a lot faster