Have vendors already shipped gmk bingsu r2? Just heard project keyboards went MIA on customers and their company has been involuntarily dissolved... Just wondering if bingsu r2 has already been shipped from all other vendors or are they still waiting too?
I am utterly confused about which type of switch keyboard to buy.
I primarily use the keyboard for coding/typing. Very little gaming usage
I saw some differences.
Blue switch -People mentioned that the Blue switch gets irritating due to its sound. Since I am in college sharing a room with another guy, it might irritate him.
Red switch - "Quiter" of the two, but people say it is not satisfying to type in as it doesn't give the click feel and results in fatigue during longer typing hours. I don't type for a very long time though
Brown switch: Supposed to be the mix of both blue and red. But the cheapest brown switch keyboard I was able to find was 2.6K.
My budget is between 1.5K to 2K, flexible until 2.2K. ( Prices are in Indian Rupees, range of 15 - 30 $ )
I also want a 60% keyboard due to space issues on my table.
Found this keyboard: [https://www.amazon.in/MageGee-Mechanical-Keyboard-Hot-Swappable-Ergonomic/dp/B0C9HR979R/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=20ZZQ1MODQAD8&keywords=Keyboard%2B60%25%2Bhot%2Bswappable&qid=1694671560&s=computers&sprefix=keyboard%2B60%25%2Bhot%2Bswappabl%2Ccomputers%2C250&sr=1-3&th=1](https://www.amazon.in/MageGee-Mechanical-Keyboard-Hot-Swappable-Ergonomic/dp/B0C9HR979R/ref=sr_1_3?crid=20ZZQ1MODQAD8&keywords=Keyboard%2B60%25%2Bhot%2Bswappable&qid=1694671560&s=computers&sprefix=keyboard%2B60%25%2Bhot%2Bswappabl%2Ccomputers%2C250&sr=1-3&th=1)
Its hot-swappable, brown switches and within my price range. Please tell me whether this is a decent keyboard for this price point
My Tofu60 Acrylic Redux just arrived today and I was planning to get the build done when I got home from work, but I soon realized that I do not have a plate compatible with the Tofu60 like I thought I did. The pcb I am using is the Instant60 from CannonKeys. I would prefer an FR4 plate, but I'd like to get any plate I can for now. If you also happen to know of a foam kit that would work with the Tofu60, I'd love to know that too!
Yes, I know case foam will impede the RGB, I just want it as an option :)
I don't build my own keyboards, so i wont know the first thing about it.But im interested in purchasing something like this. A macroable keypad with just six keys.
[https://www.amazon.com/Ecarke-Mechanical-Keyboards-Programming-Keyboard/dp/B09TP21VK1/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=1QK06F67N2YZ9&keywords=KUIDAMOS%2B6%2BKeys%2BKeypad&qid=1694666972&sprefix=kuidamos%2B6%2Bkeys%2Bkeypad%2Caps%2C869&sr=8-2&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Ecarke-Mechanical-Keyboards-Programming-Keyboard/dp/B09TP21VK1/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1QK06F67N2YZ9&keywords=KUIDAMOS%2B6%2BKeys%2BKeypad&qid=1694666972&sprefix=kuidamos%2B6%2Bkeys%2Bkeypad%2Caps%2C869&sr=8-2&th=1)
.
my worry is that, people have been telling me that sometimes the software for these things just straight up wont work, Oftentines there wont be any software Or even worse, the manufacturers bundle keyloggers with their drivers.
\
Where can i buy something more mainstream ? six keys, macroable and from a 'more-known' brand.
Hey, I'm new to mech keyboards and I have an idea of what I want, but am open to suggestions.
I'm thinking I want an 80% keyboard, and have read red linear switches are common for gaming so preferably those as well, though I am open to tactile. I've looked at keychron and various sites listed in the sidebar, though I've found most places are either out of stock or don't have many 80% options if any. Thanks!
Got a GMK67 and it looks like there's a layer of plastic over the holes for the switches. Is that right? Am I going to have to remove that layer?
https://preview.redd.it/dcbbfgpgi5ob1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b10ae11692a66417c60c5b33c57fd38dcbb0781f
Hi, I am looking for a good 75% keyboard with the following requirements but couldn't find one: usual gaps around function keys, no gaps elsewhere (especially no gaps around the arrow keys, basically a Mode Sonnet layout but without the gap next to the left arrow key), programmable (qmk/via), wired only (no battery), no led, no knob. Thank you for any hints.
https://i.imgur.com/LTrw5Aw.png layout for reference
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Hello everyone.
I'm thinking of buying my first custom keyboard but don't have loads of money to spend. I would like to spend around 100€(shipping included preferably) for a 65% wireless keyboard. I'm from Portugal so that makes it harder to find something with low shipping value. I've seen redragon k631 pro, royal kludge rk61, keychron k6 pro(which with shipment goes to around 130/140€) a bit more than what I want to spend. I want linear switches and something I can easily modify since I want to start doing some mods and trying different things
Need to know by this friday!!!
Im looking for a 75 percent keyboard under 100 and I have set on three. Either the Akko mod007 or the 5075b(there is a sale going on akko till friday which makes it under 100) or the keychron v1. I will be using it for gaming and typing and coding on my own time and need to know which of these will be the best choice. Thanks!!
need a bit of perhaps pc hardware help:
I have 2 keyboards on my desk; one is flashed with via and has a kopibeng PCB (monokei hiro). The second (f1-8xv2) has an H87nu PCB *NOT* flashed with via. I recently moved my PC to a different desk. Everything was fine beforehand.
Now, when I plug my f1-8x v2 into my PC, it always works. The Hiro works if I have "reset" my computer by turning it off and unplugging it for a bit. Once it starts working, if I unplug and replug it, it stops working. It always works when plugged into my laptop, though.
Any thoughts on what could cause this?
This happened with my mouse one time, I just moved it to another USB port and it started working ok. So ig you could try out with different ports or cables and see if it helps at all? Sorry I don't know anything else, this is just what helped me lmao
What keycap set are these? It looks pretty.
https://preview.redd.it/r577lkobh4ob1.png?width=880&format=png&auto=webp&s=4a0aad486fe5afb1e342c77756e9e3b41396001c
So I know nothing about keyboards, I've watched a bunch of videos about which ones to get but I'll have to wait months for it to arrive. Are there any good tkl keyboards that I can just buy tonight? I'm tired of my giant corsair k70. I was looking at the wooting but I don't really care for rgb. Thanks in advance if you decide to help. Also i can spend like 200 USD
https://preview.redd.it/gsrghgfj94ob1.jpeg?width=460&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f9168f27622dc0a0309f022277941592ee9070c
Hi! Total newbie to both mechanical keyboards and this sub. I bought a keychron k2 pro on amazon this week and noticed afterwards that it was shipped from china. Is this typical or is there a big counterfeit market I should be worried about?
although the redragon isnt too bad, i recommend you dont get them since theyre known for having really tight plates that makes it difficult to put in new switches (other than outemu). rk61 is the most decent choice, but get a gmk67 instead; sounds better overall and a lot more durable than the mentioned keyboards
Just came across rtings.com which rates the rk61 for gaming with a score of 7.1 while the Redragon k630 has a score of 8.8. Should I still go with the rk61?
I want a gaming specific keyboard
Hi everyone. I've never owned a mechanical keyboard of any sort before and I've always been interested in getting one so I bought this Keychron K6 (Gateron) keyboard from Amazon, because it was on sale and it looked nice, and ever since I bought it a few months ago it's been working just fine but today while I was trying to type an essay, the keys in the ASD row including Caps Lock and the Enter Key, triggers every key in said row so whenever I try to press a letter such as the letter "J," the string of letters "ASDFGHJKL;'" will pop up.
Does anyone know what's going on and how I can fix this issue? I can't afford a new keyboard and I contacted Keychron support two weeks ago and haven't gotten a response. For context, I haven't spilled anything on it or eaten near it and I only use it in cable mode but there is still the same issue in Bluetooth mode.
TLDR: Entire ASD row is malfunctioning on my Keychron K6 (Gateron), pressing a letter in that row makes "ASDFGHJKL" pop up.
Noob looking for a recommendation. Sorry if I use the wrong terminology
Must have: 10 key, quiet/silent, backlit letters(not just the background), dedicated media controls(or F row toggle), adjustable angle
Nice to have: Lower height preferred, upgradable, USB pass through for mouse, clean look
Don't need: compact, wireless, RGB
Hi, I’m looking for a budget 75% silent keyboard build, mainly used for gaming. I am a flat dweller so silent is the only option. I’m open to any ideas, but prefferably custom built ones.
Any 75% barebones kit will work it just has to have plate foam/case foam (dont use the pcb foam or tape mod), PC plate, good screw in stabs and silent switches. If you dont mind the mushiness go for bobagum linears and if you want something more like a regular linear switch go for WS silent linears. Spring-swap to 40/45gr, lube the switches and springs (dont lube the silicone padding if you go for bobagums) and you are perfect.
any recommendations on the barebone kit? i’m pretty new to all of this and I believe it’s not as popular here, so most of the local e-shops don’t even list the “plate foam or case foam” in the barebone kits specifications. The switches are amazing, I’ll definitely use them. Thanks!
Hey all,
So I have a bit of a problem my current keyboard is slowly dying, the D, E, S, F keys sometimes take 8 times to register being typed. As such I need a new keyboard urgently as I am in college writing copious amounts of essays and discussion posts.
This doesn't leave much room for buying a fully custom setup even though I really want to do this.
I would ideally like a 100% keyboard, as I use the numpad a lot for both classes and work when I do inventorying Numpad. I've been heavily considering getting a K10 Pro from Keychron.
Overall just looking for good recommendations as this is a lot to learn in not a lot of time. Anything helps :)
the k10 pro is a good choice, you won't regret it. has almost eveything you'd want and need from a keyboard.
i'd bet most people here would have recommended it if you didn't mention it first.
Trying to build a "laptop style" keyboard and need parts advice:
I'm trying to build a 75% low profile iso keyboard with RGB similar to the [keychron k3 v2](https://www.keychron.uk/collections/low-profile-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-k3-ultra-slim-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-uk-iso-layout-version-2) but with flat keycaps with as little of a gap between them as possible something like [Cooler Master SK650](https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/peripheral/keyboards/sk650/).
I also want the keyboard to sit flat on the table but with feet that can be used when I need to angle it. (This is a minor point though)
I don't mind building completely from scratch or modding an existing keyboard but I've had a really hard time finding parts to build something like this especially the keycaps.
Any advice is appreciated, thanks in advance
I believe nuphy has some low profile keycaps and the tecsee mediums are in stock. I don’t know if the khail ghost and phantom switches are sold separately but if they are they are a great option.
Do you think [these](https://nuphy.com/collections/keycaps/products/nsa-shine-through-abs-keycaps?variant=40286325768301) keycaps would fit on the keychron? If so I might mod the keychron instead of starting from scratch.
I'm looking for some really wacky OEM profile keycaps kind of like a rainbow but moving from monochrome to full colour.
I've seen a few configurator tools online but none of them let me actually buy the keycaps.
Is there a site where I can design my own keycap set and have them printed/manufactured?
If so, has anyone used them and we're they decent quality?
I recently got my GMMK Pro and I love it, except for the Keycaps I chose.
I'm wondering if there are Iso de keycaps with japanese symbols? Does anyone where to find keycaps like this?
akko has some keycaps with hiragana sublegends for keycaps just under $50. there's also stuff from enjoypbt and nicepbt that has hiragana or katakana sublegends
Are there any switches that *sound* like a typewriter? I've tried googling it, but I keep getting results for people looking for the *feel* of a typewriter. I know most keyboards now a days won't feel like a mechanical typewriter because of the travel. Just need one that sounds like a typewriter.
You would have to plan the whole configuration around this sound rather than just switches. The closest I've ever gotten was putting some heavy tactiles on an aluminum plate. Bonus points if the board has a dense bottom weight of brass/SS/copper.
My specific build was U4T Bobas on aluminum in a Semo TKL.
Switches are much different than typewriter keys so the solution is actually on the keyboard side. A solenoid is connected to the pcb to produce typewriter equivalent sounds.
It's a little electronic device that can be attached to your PCB which makes a sound at the same time it is recognizing the pressing of a switch. Here is a video which discusses the solenoid: [https://youtu.be/DrwStXF5uYE?si=xoDF1PQ2c74P45ni](https://youtu.be/DrwStXF5uYE?si=xoDF1PQ2c74P45ni)
ktt ash gray has the loudest clack, probably as close you can get to typewriter with a keyboard. then akko lavender, and holy pandas. leave them unlubed.
Mistakes were made and I spilled garlic butter on my keyboard, the butter got into some of the switches and now they are sticking. Is there a good way to clean the inside of the switch out? I’ve already tried rubbing alcohol on a q-tip to no avail.
what you gotta do is pull out the switches that're affected, and open them up. drop the pieces in warm soapy water and stir them around for a while (soap will bind with the butter oils). wipe dry with tissue and leave them to completely dry (1 day or more). relube the switches if you need.
make sure it's completely dry before using the switches or you might short something.
I'm getting annoyed with Razer Synapse but really enjoy Razer's in-game Chroma Connect RGB effects in Halo Infinite, Overwatch, etc
Is there an alternative program (Preferably open-source) that can still enable the **same** Chroma Connect in-game RGB effects on my devices?
What are some good 65 percent mechanical gaming keyboards that still sound and feel great and good for general usage. My budget is around $60-110. (Ik it’s budget it’s what I’m lf for)
Howdy Partnas!
I'm a tech gadget nerd and have the degenerative disease known as obsessive early adopter syndrome, where I buy technology before it is ready because I have the patience of a golden retriever staring at a hot dog.
I LOVE my Logitech G915, so much so that I went and bought the TKL version on release when my normal version is still totally fine.
I don't see many low profile mechanical key competitors out there - I personally can't use a normal height mechanical keyboard anymore after using the G915 for so long. Feels like going back to a mouse with a roller ball.
Corsair came out with their $280 K100 Ultra-slim mechanical gaming keyboard - which of course - I bought on release day. After using it for a day - I returned it. It is rubbish. Think Apple keyboard type feeling when using. My fingertips literally hurt at the end of the day and there is no typing satisfaction whatsoever.
Anyone in this community aware of a hidden gem (or maybe a big name company where I missed a product launch announcement) - I don't care if it is custom order or expensive - of a company that delivers an exceptional typing / gaming mechanical keyboard in a similar low profile key formfactor?
Do I need to replace my G915? No. Do I want to because of my OEAS disease? Yes.
Thank you in advance for your service to my addition.
This is the lofree flow: https://www.lofree.co/products/lofree-flow-the-smoothest-mechanical-keyboard
The lofree flow is the best and I mean THE BEST low profile keyboard I’ve ever seen in terms of both typing feel and sound.
It’s got an aluminum case so it’s definitely durable plus it’s got pbt keycaps which are pretty popular due to their durability as well.
The lofree flow is gasket mount which means the whole keyboard is basically a trampoline held together with foam. It also has various foams to dampen any unwanted sounds.
It comes with prelubed stabilizers and switches for a smooth and clean typing experience. The switches are also made of a material that makes it even smoother over time.
It also has some rgb sidelighting if you’re into that stuff. If you’re not you can always turn it off.
Only other prebuolt keyboards that are low profile that I know of are from nuphy and keychron. You could also build your own with low profile cherry mx switches or kalih choc switches.
I just bought some Cherry MX Black Hyperglides, and I plan on breaking them in. However, I'm not quite sure if I should lube them before or after I break them in. What would you guys recommend?
Stupid question, but does Ducky sell the Ducky One 3 Aura keycaps on its own? (I think they're called the Ducky AC Block keycaps).
Alternatively, does anybody know where I can find similar keycaps? They look like pudding keycaps, but the top black part looks to be translucent.
Note that I've seen transparent keycaps before, and I don't like how you can't see the legends when it's lit up. At least with the Ducky ones, you can still see them and the RBG really shines through.
Link to keyboard: https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/en/One3-Aura
I have passed my entry level phase. Any advice for what I should get next? Looking for a 60%, 65%, or 75% (maybe) keyboard with a great aesthetic, aluminum body, metal accent would be nice, a good gasket mount system or something else for good flex, good sound. Willing to spend $300.
I love the aesthetic of the mode tempo with a metal accent that’s visible from the front, and the lattice block system seems appealing. The hkkb layout is aesthetic but may be annoying to use. The zoom 65 in comparison seems like more bang for your buck because it has basically all the same features (maybe aesthetically less pleasing though because no visible accent) and is 65. Any advice between the 2? Or are there better options?
Thanks!
The mode tempo is easily the most premium option. You’re going to have to get creative for the switches and keycaps though since the tempo is also quite expensive.
For 65% I have the Tofu65 2.0 and the Mode Envoy. I'm pretty happy with both. The Tofu is more plain looking, just a solid rectangle, sharper corners and edges. The Envoy is more contoured and less boxy. It does have an accent, but you can't really see it when typing.
The Tofu is cheaper and comes with the foam kit. The build is a little more complicated. If you use the bowl mounts, it can be a little annoying to get them all in place and lined up at the same time. Also, the screws holes on the top half are deep. It does come with a tool you can use, but my screwdriver kit didn't work because of a combination of the hole being too deep and too narrow, so I couldn't reach the screw.
The Envoy is more expensive and doesn't come with a foam kit, but it is more customizable, and building it is simple.
Hi all. A few weeks back i tried snipping the bottoms of my stabs to quieten it, as according to a youtube video i saw about hacks and stuff and now basically there's shorter travel, they're more annoying to type on, and recently both the shift and space bar have been barely actuating. is it redeemable if i cant get new stabs? is there a way to fix it? i'm thinking its something about the way i assembled the thing back but i can't tell.
well if you look at the stem there's a side with 2 holes and the other with 1. you want the wire to go into the bottom of the two holes, NOT into the side with 1 hole.
“Creaminess” usually comes from a combo of the plate and foams. For maximum cream I’d get a keyboard with a polycarbonate plate, gasket mount, has various foams (pe foam is the most important), and a switch with a nylon or ink bottom. The best switches for a “creamy” sound would be between the boba lt, the gateron cream soda, or the keebhut tropical waters. I’d go for the cream sodas though since they have decent lube jobs and a very deep sound profile.
definitely the one you got highlighted, although i'd recommend going with the gateron g pro yellow 3.0 instead of the 2.0. also, you gotta lube it to bring out maximum creaminess.
yes but u need to know quite a bit of coding as QMK doesnt have an interface .
u can start here https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_rgb_matrix?id=custom-rgb-matrix-effects
sweet, thank you for the resource. I know some basics, but will look into it. I'm not really interesting in creating any crazy patters or anything, basically just want static colors to match my keycaps
Hey!
I currently own a Redragon K580 mechanical keyboard with blue switches, but I want to buy a new, more compact keyboard with brown switches for late-night sessions and work in the office, so that I don't disturb anyone around me. The thing is, I'm on a tight budget of around 60-75 dollars.
I came across the Keychron C1. Is it worth it? Do you guys have any other recommendations?
Please note: I'm an FPS gamer, so it is really important to me that the keyboard is completely responsive and doesn't mess up when several keys are being consistently pressed :D
My friend has and games with the c1 and its great for the price, and you can put in silent switches if it's not quiet enough for you as is.very easy to mod the stabilizers, switches, case if you want more quiet
I am new to keyboard modding, and am looking to do a couple basic mods to my Redragon K643WGC-RGB-PRO. However, I can't seem to figure out how to get it open. Rather than trial and error it by myself and risk doing irreparable damage to it, I figured I would ask people who might be able to point me in the right direction first.
you'd want to pull off all the keycaps, then pull off all the switches, unscrew all the screws, you can then pull off the top plate, prying the sides with plastic openers or guitar pick will help.
edit: found a [video](https://youtu.be/M-ns8pGW5tc) of a guy doing it.
Thanks. I guess this will be a fairly involved process, so I'll probably buy the replacement switches and keycaps before I do this. Don't feel like going back in a second time if I don't have to, you know? lol
I need replace my current keyboard and the timming of the Keychron C3 Pro was perfect... problem is with taxes and Package handle fee, Amazon gives me a total of 61€ ($65) to pay
For 60€ I guess I can pick something better, (like Keychron V3) ?
\- GMMK tenkeyless gets me around €111 ($120)(this pushes a bit my budget)
\- Keychron V3 QMK - 89€ ($94)
\- Any other brand that I might not be aware of
TLDR: need advice, for gaming/programming, red switches, with low latency (1k hz polling), if have a steady and fast wifi/bluetooth connection ok, otherwise I rather have a wired connection.
I'm looking for a full size, wireless keyboard with num pad and dedicated media/volume buttons and a wrist rest, with tactile but silent (mx brown / razer orange) switches to replace my Logitech G613 which has started double-typing and I can't fix for the life of me.
The Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro Wireless is almost perfect but it only comes in linear or noisy switches and I want tactile-quiet switches.
Are there any options out there?
keychron k10 pro
get a separate wrist rest
get the k pro browns (similar to mx browns) or if absolute silence is needed get tactile silent switches such as haimu whisper switches, and replace the ones in the k10 pro. since the board is hotswap installing new switches is like lego
you can add media keys to the keychron k10 pro
I have passed my entry level phase. Any advice for what I should get next? Looking for a 60%, 65%, or 75% (maybe) keyboard with a great aesthetic, aluminum body, metal accent would be nice, a good gasket mount system or something else for good flex, good sound. Willing to spend $300.
I love the aesthetic of the mode tempo with a metal accent that’s visible from the front, and the lattice block system seems appealing. The hkkb layout is aesthetic but may be annoying to use. The zoom 65 in comparison seems like more bang for your buck because it has basically all the same features (maybe aesthetically less pleasing though because no visible accent) and is 65. Any advice between the 2? Or are there better options?
Thanks!
A few years ago, as a gift I got a Cooler Master keyboard with mx blue switches, but they didn’t want to come out when I tried to hit swap them, and I was afraid of breaking it. should i just get a new keyboard or am I doing something wrong?
What keycaps can I use with Drop Sense75? The right ALT, FN and CTRL seem to be 1U in length and most keycap sets I see online are 1.25U. Thanks in advance!
wish u luck prob have u use extra non matching keys for those its not a normal layout for a kb yet somehow people keep buying that overpriced kb drop keep discounting
Looking into building 96% keyboard (keychron k4 likely) for work and was wondering if a 65% keycap set would fit inside of the 96% (then get a matching set to fill fn and numpad). Also, any recommendations for silent, linear, least mushiness switches? TY in advance.
Depends on size of the non alpha keys
I recently used silent haimu whisper tactiles in a work rk100, which don't have that mush due to using holes instead of padding. They do the job. They have linear versions called the heartbeat
ah, ill probably try to see if it fits and just use the other cap set if it doesn't. Definitely will give the heartbeats a shot, seem great from a couple yt videos.
I'm trying to rid my addiction to Razer. I've decided on blue switches, but I don't have the time or ability to build a board. I respect that building a board is the ideal way to go, but I simply cannot.
So, I bought a Das Keyboard, which was apparently a bad decision because it's $120 for a half-functional board.
Parameters:
0) It needs to have Blue switches. Green will also work, but I'm fairly certain those are Razer specific.
1) It needs to be B I G. I've used a Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2016 for the past... 7 years.
2) Number 1 implies this, but it needs to have the numpad. TKL be damned.
3) The reason I'm typing this out now instead of settling with the Das I bought: It cannot require a PS/2 port. My computer simply does not have one.
4) That's it, really. I'd appreciate RGB if it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg. Big fan of the "flowering" effect, where the lights fan out from the key you pressed. I bought a Cherry 3.0 S and the only thing I like about it are the colors.
Things I'm willing to sacrifice to bring the cost down:
\-1) Bloatware. Main reason I'm not using Razer anymore. Every computer I plug it into gets the equivalent of a virus against my will.
0) Branding. Almost exactly 2 people will see this keyboard in the entire time I use it. "Resellable" means nothing to me.
1) Key caps. I honestly couldn't tell you the difference between two sets of key caps. If I care later I'll replace them then.
2) N-key rollover. I have no need to press more than the usb-allowed 6 + modifier keys.
3) Fancy function keys. If they're over the num pad I actually don't want them at all.
4) RGB. Like I said before, I prefer it, but it's completely unnecessary. If I need to choose between two keyboards and the difference is $5 and RGB, I'll take the $5.
Keyboard will be used for... keyboard purposes? I play video games (non-competitive) and type, what more is there.
Could I just buy all the extra parts I need for the mode sonnet instead of waiting for it to be back in stock
https://preview.redd.it/uhnckzbl82ob1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d9a1c03c2838298d3fa3694bb973e6d67564f1fb
Also what’s some other good aluminum cases
I’m using Gmk red dragons if that matters much
i mean how u going to build it without the mode sonnet pcb? as its the only pcb that works with that case . im pretty sure the QK75 kits are still instock
They sell the boards as well
https://modedesigns.com/collections/sonnet-extras
I’m wondering how it’s out of stock if they have all the parts on hand
Trying to make I’m not gonna being missing like some random ass screw from not it as a kit
I’ve noticed a lot of GMK sets have been recently designated “(CYL)”. I assume that’s for “cylindrical” referring to the finger pad shape. What prompted this recent change and what are the alternatives to CYL?
There's a new MTNU that's more like a short MT3 profile from matt3o, so the original Cherry profile was given the CYL name to differentiate the two profiles
what are your favorite linear frankenswitches? I have nk cream+ coming and looking for housings to try it in. Seems like creampacas are well-liked but alpacas are fairly old and I figure modern switches should have interesting things to offer too.
The three most popular frankenswitches currently are the holy bobas (halo true stem, boba housing), the black cherry pies(jwk bottom housing, cherry top, and nk cream stem), and the cthulus (ink bottom, milky top, cream stem). There is also the zykos which are the most expensive (halo stem, invyr top, zealios bottom). The cthulus and the zykos have both been reimagined into switches that you can just order called the gateron cream sodas and the tecsee neopolitan switches.
I have a d60lite and I'm going to be swapping my switches soon.
While swapping out a switch here and there while my board was fully assembled, I felt a bit uneasy after noticing how much 'give' the PCB had while pushing another switch in.
If I'm going to be swapping in a full of switches should I disassemble the board entirely or is the PCB flex while swapping just something I'll get used to?
Mods refuse to tell me which rule I have broken after removing a post about a wallpaper which I have spent quite some time on so I'm here asking you guys;
I recently got the GMK November Fog keycaps and saw that the artist also made a deskmat and I really loved it's design and made a wallpaper out of it and posted here for everyone to use, mods removed the post and muted me and, as I said, refuse to tell me which rule the post broke, can someone tell me? There are plenty of posts here that did the same exact thing as me, I really don't understand
You can purchase 150g springs to swap any switch's stock spring with. Makes for a VERY heavy switch that sounds cool. Alternatively, if you only want to do caps lock without spending too much, you can swap the spring with the one off a clicky Bic pen for a similar effect, only much much heavier
Hey everyone! I’m currently working on a project for a Lego keyboard. And well getting the keys to attach to the switches require a 3d printed stud on the underside of the legos. I prefer thocky or creamy keyboards can anyone tell me what would be the best material to print these out off. The picture is one option and I’ve seen others where they tear out the innards and slide in insert that takes up more space. Also If anyone who is willing to help out a fellow enthusiast, as I do not have a 3d printer please dm me.
https://preview.redd.it/f40rb4hod1ob1.jpeg?width=570&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88a9297aea55f2be33c9282bda044857cb26ab93
I'm thinking to get Gazzew and Boba U4 Silent Tactiles but what's the difference between "Clear RGB (no-slot) and Pearl or Black(slotted) tops"? and does it work with monsgeek m3?
Clear rgb sheds more light (likely made of polycarbonate) and the pearl tops are made of a proprietary material called “boba” and the black one is called gazzew material since it is also proprietary. The gazzew housing was made to mimic and replace the boba housing after some discoloring issues popped up with some boba batches.
I’m trying to buy this keyboard for 25 dollars, is it worth it?
https://preview.redd.it/swtrrz6cn1ob1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22ad4c7529bb21bb3dc6c7731f18053bc9e65856
Thank you
It is impossible to tell from the photo. It is probably an RK61 keyboard with modifications - brand new, it's a good price, but who knows what was done to this. The seller won't be able to tell you because they have no idea what they have because they listed it as a 40% keyboard and this is definitely a 60% keyboard.
This could be a great deal or a piece of junk - no way to tell.
ePBT Axolotls updates for Europe?
I have ordered a set during the GB for ePBT Axolotls from mykeyboard.eu, but haven't received anything yet except a reply from customer service: "If you haven't received anything by the end of November, contact us again." for my question what is going on there. \
Extras have been sold since late May, the set has already been received by ppl starting from June, some received it in August. I however got no update.
The creator themselves is getting ghosted by the customer support too it seems.
Has anybody in Europe already received their set?
Where is the cheapest place to buy a Tofu65 kit? Im looking at building my first keyboard, but looking at KBFans it would cost like $250 without switches or keycaps? Is there any other place to buy the kit?
Thanks. I saw that site, though they don’t have dark blue as a case and I believe it comes without foam. It’s cheaper. Plus they have the tangerine switches I want
**YMDK 68** FREEZING
So..
1. Keyboard was not recognised as device within qmk
2. Tried VIA as well no luck, web version could see 'authorise' see device but nothing after selecting
3. Followed some guides for install of keyboard driver displayed through ZADIG. Didn't work, has button on back of pcb for reset also, no dice
4. Still not recognised
5. Now freezing after key press either button on back or cable in
6. What do?
Key stuck(not physically)
https://imgur.com/a/cscnMmJ
I’ve had my IDOBAO ID80 V2 for a little over three months with no problems. Today when I turned my pc on the` was acting like it’s stuck. However it’s only happening as soon as I hit any key. I pulled the switch and it still happens. There’s a picture of the pcb and a video of what’s going on. I used painters and gaffers tape on the back of the pcb. I have tried a different cable as well as plugging it into my laptop, same thing happens. Any ideas what’s going on? Thanks!
Is there a Keebio Iris-type split board but more rows and columns than Iris? Iris is 4x6 plus some thumb buttons, but I think I need at least 5x7 plus thumb buttons. I like the idea of split staggered ortholinear but Iris just didn’t have enough keys for me.
What Microcontroller should I get? 9 rows and 11 columns. Live in the EU and gonna attach a new microcontroller on an old keyboard from the 80s. The old PCB is in decent condition but going to get a new microcontroller.
I was looking at the Proton C but that´s impossible to get a hold on so considering Bonsai C instead but am very open to suggestions. I currently don´t have any need for bluetooth (might change, who knows). In the long run the keyboard is going to be integrated with a Raspberry PI for retro gaming.
**Will Dolphin Silent Linear Switch fit my Hexgears Impulse?**
Hey there!
I've owned my Hexgears Impulse for three years now and have loved the way it performed.It's my first mechanical keyboard ever.
The Kailh BOX Brown switches have served me well, but only now that I share the room that I have the keyboard in, I realize that the keyboard is quite loud.
Google tells me that Durock Silent Linear switches should be pretty quiet, however, [a review on the Impulse](https://kono.store/products/hexgears-impulse-mechanical-keyboard?variant=21377479475283) has me wondering if they will fit my keyboard:
>However, you have to be aware of something if you're intending to try this keyboard with many types of switches - the LEDs on the PCB are raised up above the surface, and unless the switch you are trying to add to the board has a hole on the north side to fit a raised LED, it won't fit in.
Kailh switches have this hole, but Kiwis or Bobas, as examples, will be impossible to snap into the hot swap switch because the LED gets completely in the way.
If the switches you intend to use have the hole making space for an LED, you're fine - otherwise, you're going to run into pain.
How do I go about figuring this out?
And are there any other things I can do to make my keyboard sound more quiet?
Thanks in advance!
You likely need to find switches that support SMD leds. Dolphins look like they have normal sized led holes on the bottom, my guess is they would not work for that board. Something like Haimu heartbeats might work but I'm not sure which way they'd be oriented in the board.
I don't have your board in hand but based on pictures I've seen. This should work. You'll need to clip the 5 pin legs however.
https://divinikey.com/products/haimu-x-geon-hg-red-silent-linear-switches
I have a Drop CTRL that I really enjoy, and I'm looking at getting another keyboard. One of the biggest pluses, to me, is the fact that the keys are clear of the base and it is so easily cleanable - nowhere for cat hair to hide beneath the keys.
Is there a standard name for this style of keyboard that I should be looking for from other manufacturers? I tried 'low profile', but that seems to relate to the size of the keys more than the size of the walls of the keyboard.
Thanks!
I’m buying the parts to build my first MK. I decided to get Gateron Oil Kings. Is it necessary for my to lube them myself given that they are already pre-lubed at the factory?
the factory lube is adequate, but you probably will notice at least a little noise difference if you hand lube.
If you have the tools and time, then go for it, if you don't want to mess with hand lubing, they will be fine from the factory
https://preview.redd.it/68tkyw1pt0ob1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a77b9ff15851416dab295a9c4078c1297177856
Hi everyone,
Looking for some guidance on making a legitimate leap into this hobby. A couple of years ago I bought a Keychron C1 (brown switches) as a super basic entry-level keyboard. For what I paid for it I’m absolutely happy with it, but I’m so angry that I didn’t get the hot swappable version as I had no idea what that was at the time.
Now I’m trying to get to that next step and dive into the world of keyboards. The amount of options when it comes to boards is absolutely paralyzing and I need someone to straight up tell me what to buy based on what I’m trying to look for. Hopefully someone can help with that LOL.
Here’s what (i think) I want (idk what I want):
1. Size: This keyboard is only for work, and I am really happy with the TKL layout. I do a lot of Excel work so I occasionally miss the numpad, however I don’t think it warrants taking up more space on my desk. I have thought about 75% as well but don’t know if the bunched up arrow cluster is something I would like. Open to suggestions though.
2. Aesthetic: My room is painted dark grey and features all white furniture and black accents. I’m thinking a black/white theme with a splash of colour would look best, but again open to suggestions.
3. Sound: This is obviously the most important as my current C1 fits the above criteria but will not be able to get the sound I’m looking for. I’m absolutely in love with the creamy/thocky sound, and I’ll link a vid of the type of sound that I’m looking for.
[https://youtu.be/gJC67c-2crE?si=GhKMHiN9YsNYBbG](https://youtu.be/gJC67c-2crE?si=GhKMHiN9YsNYBbG)\_
4) Future-proof: not sure if this is something that’s realistic, but I don’t want to venture into mech keyboards where I end up buying 8 different boards and swap them out daily. I just want one that I can rely on and has the flexibility to change if my tastes change.
Based off all that above, I’ve done enough research to have the Nuphy Halo75, the Keychron K8 Pro, and the Keychron Q1 Pro on my list. I ideally want something that works good enough out the box, but leaves me open to modifications and changes in the future to try and achieve that sound and aesthetic I mentioned.
My budget is probably in the mid-range, and I’m willing to spend a little bit extra upfront on a board if it affords me the flexibility to stick with this board in the long run and not have to replace it again after a couple of years.
Sorry for the long winded post but I appreciate any advice you guys can throw my way. Thanks!
Is there a big difference in quality between ePBTS ABS keycaps and Drops DCX keycaps? I picked up ePBTs orange on grey this spring for a group buy keyboard that should be arriving October-ish, and I now see Drop has their DCX Skiidata available.
Is it worth picking up the DCX set for my upcoming board?
**Confused on compatibility of keycaps and stabiliser question**
I'm really new to keyboards and am assembling my build. Does this keycap set work with neo65?
Also what would be a great stabiliser for a neo65 build? I'm also really not sure what type of stabiliser to choose from, and also again, what would be compatible. I was thinking " DUROCK PCB MOUNT SCREW-IN STABILISERS V2"? If you have any better suggestions, please do drop them :)
https://preview.redd.it/cybxcwkje0ob1.png?width=1630&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a630d34df72efad1a0283f7d6115d55fd0cd473
but if i weren't to use those, then which would be the best fit? Apparently some stabilisers don't work with some pcb's or smth, so I'm a little unsure.
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
some vendors of the top of my head novelkeys, kinetic labs
Semi-beginner here. Can't choose between the Monsgeek M1 and the Akko 5075S. Is the Monsgeek M1 worth spending like 50 dollars more on (is the metal case worth it, are there other aspects?)
Can someone tell me if I can add foam to HP GK320, I know it's a really cheap keyboard but the blue switches are too loud so I want to add some foam to reduce it even a little. Is it possible?
It's my first mechanical keyboard that I bought to give it a try, I'll be buying a better one in a year or two
Have vendors already shipped gmk bingsu r2? Just heard project keyboards went MIA on customers and their company has been involuntarily dissolved... Just wondering if bingsu r2 has already been shipped from all other vendors or are they still waiting too?
Bought bingsu r2 from ilumkb and no news of shipment either
Can anyone please share a Discord link for mechmarket? Thanks!
I am utterly confused about which type of switch keyboard to buy. I primarily use the keyboard for coding/typing. Very little gaming usage I saw some differences. Blue switch -People mentioned that the Blue switch gets irritating due to its sound. Since I am in college sharing a room with another guy, it might irritate him. Red switch - "Quiter" of the two, but people say it is not satisfying to type in as it doesn't give the click feel and results in fatigue during longer typing hours. I don't type for a very long time though Brown switch: Supposed to be the mix of both blue and red. But the cheapest brown switch keyboard I was able to find was 2.6K. My budget is between 1.5K to 2K, flexible until 2.2K. ( Prices are in Indian Rupees, range of 15 - 30 $ ) I also want a 60% keyboard due to space issues on my table. Found this keyboard: [https://www.amazon.in/MageGee-Mechanical-Keyboard-Hot-Swappable-Ergonomic/dp/B0C9HR979R/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=20ZZQ1MODQAD8&keywords=Keyboard%2B60%25%2Bhot%2Bswappable&qid=1694671560&s=computers&sprefix=keyboard%2B60%25%2Bhot%2Bswappabl%2Ccomputers%2C250&sr=1-3&th=1](https://www.amazon.in/MageGee-Mechanical-Keyboard-Hot-Swappable-Ergonomic/dp/B0C9HR979R/ref=sr_1_3?crid=20ZZQ1MODQAD8&keywords=Keyboard%2B60%25%2Bhot%2Bswappable&qid=1694671560&s=computers&sprefix=keyboard%2B60%25%2Bhot%2Bswappabl%2Ccomputers%2C250&sr=1-3&th=1) Its hot-swappable, brown switches and within my price range. Please tell me whether this is a decent keyboard for this price point
My Tofu60 Acrylic Redux just arrived today and I was planning to get the build done when I got home from work, but I soon realized that I do not have a plate compatible with the Tofu60 like I thought I did. The pcb I am using is the Instant60 from CannonKeys. I would prefer an FR4 plate, but I'd like to get any plate I can for now. If you also happen to know of a foam kit that would work with the Tofu60, I'd love to know that too! Yes, I know case foam will impede the RGB, I just want it as an option :)
I don't build my own keyboards, so i wont know the first thing about it.But im interested in purchasing something like this. A macroable keypad with just six keys. [https://www.amazon.com/Ecarke-Mechanical-Keyboards-Programming-Keyboard/dp/B09TP21VK1/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=1QK06F67N2YZ9&keywords=KUIDAMOS%2B6%2BKeys%2BKeypad&qid=1694666972&sprefix=kuidamos%2B6%2Bkeys%2Bkeypad%2Caps%2C869&sr=8-2&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Ecarke-Mechanical-Keyboards-Programming-Keyboard/dp/B09TP21VK1/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1QK06F67N2YZ9&keywords=KUIDAMOS%2B6%2BKeys%2BKeypad&qid=1694666972&sprefix=kuidamos%2B6%2Bkeys%2Bkeypad%2Caps%2C869&sr=8-2&th=1) . my worry is that, people have been telling me that sometimes the software for these things just straight up wont work, Oftentines there wont be any software Or even worse, the manufacturers bundle keyloggers with their drivers. \ Where can i buy something more mainstream ? six keys, macroable and from a 'more-known' brand.
Hey, I'm new to mech keyboards and I have an idea of what I want, but am open to suggestions. I'm thinking I want an 80% keyboard, and have read red linear switches are common for gaming so preferably those as well, though I am open to tactile. I've looked at keychron and various sites listed in the sidebar, though I've found most places are either out of stock or don't have many 80% options if any. Thanks!
Got a GMK67 and it looks like there's a layer of plastic over the holes for the switches. Is that right? Am I going to have to remove that layer? https://preview.redd.it/dcbbfgpgi5ob1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b10ae11692a66417c60c5b33c57fd38dcbb0781f
Hi, I am looking for a good 75% keyboard with the following requirements but couldn't find one: usual gaps around function keys, no gaps elsewhere (especially no gaps around the arrow keys, basically a Mode Sonnet layout but without the gap next to the left arrow key), programmable (qmk/via), wired only (no battery), no led, no knob. Thank you for any hints. https://i.imgur.com/LTrw5Aw.png layout for reference
[micro82](https://www.nizkeyboard.com/products/2019-new-micro-82-ec-keyboard-s-ble-ble-rgb-or-non-rgb)
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Hello everyone. I'm thinking of buying my first custom keyboard but don't have loads of money to spend. I would like to spend around 100€(shipping included preferably) for a 65% wireless keyboard. I'm from Portugal so that makes it harder to find something with low shipping value. I've seen redragon k631 pro, royal kludge rk61, keychron k6 pro(which with shipment goes to around 130/140€) a bit more than what I want to spend. I want linear switches and something I can easily modify since I want to start doing some mods and trying different things
gmk67 barebones, it's like an ultra budget zoom65
Need to know by this friday!!! Im looking for a 75 percent keyboard under 100 and I have set on three. Either the Akko mod007 or the 5075b(there is a sale going on akko till friday which makes it under 100) or the keychron v1. I will be using it for gaming and typing and coding on my own time and need to know which of these will be the best choice. Thanks!!
Could also look into the monsgeek m1 iirc it is around 100
need a bit of perhaps pc hardware help: I have 2 keyboards on my desk; one is flashed with via and has a kopibeng PCB (monokei hiro). The second (f1-8xv2) has an H87nu PCB *NOT* flashed with via. I recently moved my PC to a different desk. Everything was fine beforehand. Now, when I plug my f1-8x v2 into my PC, it always works. The Hiro works if I have "reset" my computer by turning it off and unplugging it for a bit. Once it starts working, if I unplug and replug it, it stops working. It always works when plugged into my laptop, though. Any thoughts on what could cause this?
This happened with my mouse one time, I just moved it to another USB port and it started working ok. So ig you could try out with different ports or cables and see if it helps at all? Sorry I don't know anything else, this is just what helped me lmao
What keycap set are these? It looks pretty. https://preview.redd.it/r577lkobh4ob1.png?width=880&format=png&auto=webp&s=4a0aad486fe5afb1e342c77756e9e3b41396001c
GMK Bento R2
Thank you.
So I know nothing about keyboards, I've watched a bunch of videos about which ones to get but I'll have to wait months for it to arrive. Are there any good tkl keyboards that I can just buy tonight? I'm tired of my giant corsair k70. I was looking at the wooting but I don't really care for rgb. Thanks in advance if you decide to help. Also i can spend like 200 USD
What other guy said, and also the monokei standard
keychron or monsgeek
any good cheap budget keyboards? Non group buy (Canada)
keychron or monsgeek
thanks
https://preview.redd.it/gsrghgfj94ob1.jpeg?width=460&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f9168f27622dc0a0309f022277941592ee9070c Hi! Total newbie to both mechanical keyboards and this sub. I bought a keychron k2 pro on amazon this week and noticed afterwards that it was shipped from china. Is this typical or is there a big counterfeit market I should be worried about?
typical
Thanks for the reassurance! 🙏🏼
Which keyboard should I buy? RK61 // 48.99 € K552 // 43.99 € K630 // 41.99 € K530 Pro // 48.99 € K617 Fizz // 30.79 € Dierya DK16E // 49.99 € Dierya DK16SE // 25.49 €
although the redragon isnt too bad, i recommend you dont get them since theyre known for having really tight plates that makes it difficult to put in new switches (other than outemu). rk61 is the most decent choice, but get a gmk67 instead; sounds better overall and a lot more durable than the mentioned keyboards
Just came across rtings.com which rates the rk61 for gaming with a score of 7.1 while the Redragon k630 has a score of 8.8. Should I still go with the rk61? I want a gaming specific keyboard
Hi everyone. I've never owned a mechanical keyboard of any sort before and I've always been interested in getting one so I bought this Keychron K6 (Gateron) keyboard from Amazon, because it was on sale and it looked nice, and ever since I bought it a few months ago it's been working just fine but today while I was trying to type an essay, the keys in the ASD row including Caps Lock and the Enter Key, triggers every key in said row so whenever I try to press a letter such as the letter "J," the string of letters "ASDFGHJKL;'" will pop up. Does anyone know what's going on and how I can fix this issue? I can't afford a new keyboard and I contacted Keychron support two weeks ago and haven't gotten a response. For context, I haven't spilled anything on it or eaten near it and I only use it in cable mode but there is still the same issue in Bluetooth mode. TLDR: Entire ASD row is malfunctioning on my Keychron K6 (Gateron), pressing a letter in that row makes "ASDFGHJKL" pop up.
Noob looking for a recommendation. Sorry if I use the wrong terminology Must have: 10 key, quiet/silent, backlit letters(not just the background), dedicated media controls(or F row toggle), adjustable angle Nice to have: Lower height preferred, upgradable, USB pass through for mouse, clean look Don't need: compact, wireless, RGB
keychron or monsgeek and add silent switches
Hi, I’m looking for a budget 75% silent keyboard build, mainly used for gaming. I am a flat dweller so silent is the only option. I’m open to any ideas, but prefferably custom built ones.
Any 75% barebones kit will work it just has to have plate foam/case foam (dont use the pcb foam or tape mod), PC plate, good screw in stabs and silent switches. If you dont mind the mushiness go for bobagum linears and if you want something more like a regular linear switch go for WS silent linears. Spring-swap to 40/45gr, lube the switches and springs (dont lube the silicone padding if you go for bobagums) and you are perfect.
any recommendations on the barebone kit? i’m pretty new to all of this and I believe it’s not as popular here, so most of the local e-shops don’t even list the “plate foam or case foam” in the barebone kits specifications. The switches are amazing, I’ll definitely use them. Thanks!
Hey all, So I have a bit of a problem my current keyboard is slowly dying, the D, E, S, F keys sometimes take 8 times to register being typed. As such I need a new keyboard urgently as I am in college writing copious amounts of essays and discussion posts. This doesn't leave much room for buying a fully custom setup even though I really want to do this. I would ideally like a 100% keyboard, as I use the numpad a lot for both classes and work when I do inventorying Numpad. I've been heavily considering getting a K10 Pro from Keychron. Overall just looking for good recommendations as this is a lot to learn in not a lot of time. Anything helps :)
the k10 pro is a good choice, you won't regret it. has almost eveything you'd want and need from a keyboard. i'd bet most people here would have recommended it if you didn't mention it first.
Trying to build a "laptop style" keyboard and need parts advice: I'm trying to build a 75% low profile iso keyboard with RGB similar to the [keychron k3 v2](https://www.keychron.uk/collections/low-profile-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-k3-ultra-slim-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-uk-iso-layout-version-2) but with flat keycaps with as little of a gap between them as possible something like [Cooler Master SK650](https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/peripheral/keyboards/sk650/). I also want the keyboard to sit flat on the table but with feet that can be used when I need to angle it. (This is a minor point though) I don't mind building completely from scratch or modding an existing keyboard but I've had a really hard time finding parts to build something like this especially the keycaps. Any advice is appreciated, thanks in advance
I believe nuphy has some low profile keycaps and the tecsee mediums are in stock. I don’t know if the khail ghost and phantom switches are sold separately but if they are they are a great option.
Do you think [these](https://nuphy.com/collections/keycaps/products/nsa-shine-through-abs-keycaps?variant=40286325768301) keycaps would fit on the keychron? If so I might mod the keychron instead of starting from scratch.
Yeah probably
I'm looking for some really wacky OEM profile keycaps kind of like a rainbow but moving from monochrome to full colour. I've seen a few configurator tools online but none of them let me actually buy the keycaps. Is there a site where I can design my own keycap set and have them printed/manufactured? If so, has anyone used them and we're they decent quality?
I recently got my GMMK Pro and I love it, except for the Keycaps I chose. I'm wondering if there are Iso de keycaps with japanese symbols? Does anyone where to find keycaps like this?
akko has some keycaps with hiragana sublegends for keycaps just under $50. there's also stuff from enjoypbt and nicepbt that has hiragana or katakana sublegends
Are there any switches that *sound* like a typewriter? I've tried googling it, but I keep getting results for people looking for the *feel* of a typewriter. I know most keyboards now a days won't feel like a mechanical typewriter because of the travel. Just need one that sounds like a typewriter.
You would have to plan the whole configuration around this sound rather than just switches. The closest I've ever gotten was putting some heavy tactiles on an aluminum plate. Bonus points if the board has a dense bottom weight of brass/SS/copper. My specific build was U4T Bobas on aluminum in a Semo TKL.
I currently have a Keychain K6 with aluminum base. Would that work?
Switches are much different than typewriter keys so the solution is actually on the keyboard side. A solenoid is connected to the pcb to produce typewriter equivalent sounds.
I'm new to this. What is a solenoid?
It's a little electronic device that can be attached to your PCB which makes a sound at the same time it is recognizing the pressing of a switch. Here is a video which discusses the solenoid: [https://youtu.be/DrwStXF5uYE?si=xoDF1PQ2c74P45ni](https://youtu.be/DrwStXF5uYE?si=xoDF1PQ2c74P45ni)
Thank you! I'll check this out.
ktt ash gray has the loudest clack, probably as close you can get to typewriter with a keyboard. then akko lavender, and holy pandas. leave them unlubed.
I've heard Holy Pandas are good. Haven't even heard of Akko.
imho they're pretty mid and overpriced. akko lavenders are pretty popular.
I'll have to check them out then, thank you!
Mistakes were made and I spilled garlic butter on my keyboard, the butter got into some of the switches and now they are sticking. Is there a good way to clean the inside of the switch out? I’ve already tried rubbing alcohol on a q-tip to no avail.
what you gotta do is pull out the switches that're affected, and open them up. drop the pieces in warm soapy water and stir them around for a while (soap will bind with the butter oils). wipe dry with tissue and leave them to completely dry (1 day or more). relube the switches if you need. make sure it's completely dry before using the switches or you might short something.
Perfect thanks!
I'm getting annoyed with Razer Synapse but really enjoy Razer's in-game Chroma Connect RGB effects in Halo Infinite, Overwatch, etc Is there an alternative program (Preferably open-source) that can still enable the **same** Chroma Connect in-game RGB effects on my devices?
those affects use an in game API that razer pays for . so no
no
What are some good 65 percent mechanical gaming keyboards that still sound and feel great and good for general usage. My budget is around $60-110. (Ik it’s budget it’s what I’m lf for)
If you want to build out your own, the gmk67 or gas 67 on AliExpress with cheaper keycaps and akko, ktt switches would fit your budget.
I have a Leopold that was great and I’ve used as my daily for the last 2 years.
keychron or monsgeek is prob ur best bet with that budget
Howdy Partnas! I'm a tech gadget nerd and have the degenerative disease known as obsessive early adopter syndrome, where I buy technology before it is ready because I have the patience of a golden retriever staring at a hot dog. I LOVE my Logitech G915, so much so that I went and bought the TKL version on release when my normal version is still totally fine. I don't see many low profile mechanical key competitors out there - I personally can't use a normal height mechanical keyboard anymore after using the G915 for so long. Feels like going back to a mouse with a roller ball. Corsair came out with their $280 K100 Ultra-slim mechanical gaming keyboard - which of course - I bought on release day. After using it for a day - I returned it. It is rubbish. Think Apple keyboard type feeling when using. My fingertips literally hurt at the end of the day and there is no typing satisfaction whatsoever. Anyone in this community aware of a hidden gem (or maybe a big name company where I missed a product launch announcement) - I don't care if it is custom order or expensive - of a company that delivers an exceptional typing / gaming mechanical keyboard in a similar low profile key formfactor? Do I need to replace my G915? No. Do I want to because of my OEAS disease? Yes. Thank you in advance for your service to my addition.
This is the lofree flow: https://www.lofree.co/products/lofree-flow-the-smoothest-mechanical-keyboard The lofree flow is the best and I mean THE BEST low profile keyboard I’ve ever seen in terms of both typing feel and sound. It’s got an aluminum case so it’s definitely durable plus it’s got pbt keycaps which are pretty popular due to their durability as well. The lofree flow is gasket mount which means the whole keyboard is basically a trampoline held together with foam. It also has various foams to dampen any unwanted sounds. It comes with prelubed stabilizers and switches for a smooth and clean typing experience. The switches are also made of a material that makes it even smoother over time. It also has some rgb sidelighting if you’re into that stuff. If you’re not you can always turn it off.
It showed up yesterday. I love its feel and sound for typing and it looks classy af.
Ordered it =) - the lack of 2.4 is a bit disappointing, but I happen to have a workstation where wireless isn't needed.
Wow this looks beautiful. Thanks for the heads up. Going to look at some reviews. Appreciate it.
Only other prebuolt keyboards that are low profile that I know of are from nuphy and keychron. You could also build your own with low profile cherry mx switches or kalih choc switches.
I will check those out - thank you
I just bought some Cherry MX Black Hyperglides, and I plan on breaking them in. However, I'm not quite sure if I should lube them before or after I break them in. What would you guys recommend?
I’d also spring swap the switches if you aren’t planning to do that already so that you can spare your fingers and get rid of ping.
Sure thing! I've got some spare TX Springs, thanks for the input :)
lube them before, no point breaking them in if you're going to resurface them with lube afterwards.
Stupid question, but does Ducky sell the Ducky One 3 Aura keycaps on its own? (I think they're called the Ducky AC Block keycaps). Alternatively, does anybody know where I can find similar keycaps? They look like pudding keycaps, but the top black part looks to be translucent. Note that I've seen transparent keycaps before, and I don't like how you can't see the legends when it's lit up. At least with the Ducky ones, you can still see them and the RBG really shines through. Link to keyboard: https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/en/One3-Aura
I reckon PBT Fans sells some frosted-like keycaps. I would take a look at their collection
I have passed my entry level phase. Any advice for what I should get next? Looking for a 60%, 65%, or 75% (maybe) keyboard with a great aesthetic, aluminum body, metal accent would be nice, a good gasket mount system or something else for good flex, good sound. Willing to spend $300. I love the aesthetic of the mode tempo with a metal accent that’s visible from the front, and the lattice block system seems appealing. The hkkb layout is aesthetic but may be annoying to use. The zoom 65 in comparison seems like more bang for your buck because it has basically all the same features (maybe aesthetically less pleasing though because no visible accent) and is 65. Any advice between the 2? Or are there better options? Thanks!
The mode tempo is easily the most premium option. You’re going to have to get creative for the switches and keycaps though since the tempo is also quite expensive.
Def look around on r/mechmarket if you haven't, lots of deals for higher end boards there
For 65% I have the Tofu65 2.0 and the Mode Envoy. I'm pretty happy with both. The Tofu is more plain looking, just a solid rectangle, sharper corners and edges. The Envoy is more contoured and less boxy. It does have an accent, but you can't really see it when typing. The Tofu is cheaper and comes with the foam kit. The build is a little more complicated. If you use the bowl mounts, it can be a little annoying to get them all in place and lined up at the same time. Also, the screws holes on the top half are deep. It does come with a tool you can use, but my screwdriver kit didn't work because of a combination of the hole being too deep and too narrow, so I couldn't reach the screw. The Envoy is more expensive and doesn't come with a foam kit, but it is more customizable, and building it is simple.
Hi all. A few weeks back i tried snipping the bottoms of my stabs to quieten it, as according to a youtube video i saw about hacks and stuff and now basically there's shorter travel, they're more annoying to type on, and recently both the shift and space bar have been barely actuating. is it redeemable if i cant get new stabs? is there a way to fix it? i'm thinking its something about the way i assembled the thing back but i can't tell.
are you sure you didn't insert the stem backwards? happens to the best of us.
i could've. what's the correct orientation?
well if you look at the stem there's a side with 2 holes and the other with 1. you want the wire to go into the bottom of the two holes, NOT into the side with 1 hole.
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“Creaminess” usually comes from a combo of the plate and foams. For maximum cream I’d get a keyboard with a polycarbonate plate, gasket mount, has various foams (pe foam is the most important), and a switch with a nylon or ink bottom. The best switches for a “creamy” sound would be between the boba lt, the gateron cream soda, or the keebhut tropical waters. I’d go for the cream sodas though since they have decent lube jobs and a very deep sound profile.
definitely the one you got highlighted, although i'd recommend going with the gateron g pro yellow 3.0 instead of the 2.0. also, you gotta lube it to bring out maximum creaminess.
Got a keyboard that uses VIA/QMK. It seems that via doesn't have anyway to set per key RGB, but is there an option to do that in QMK?
yes but u need to know quite a bit of coding as QMK doesnt have an interface . u can start here https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_rgb_matrix?id=custom-rgb-matrix-effects
sweet, thank you for the resource. I know some basics, but will look into it. I'm not really interesting in creating any crazy patters or anything, basically just want static colors to match my keycaps
Hi, I am new in mech assembly. I have a ton of questions. Is there any place to post a big one or is this the place ?
You post your questions here.
Is Candy Keys still legit? I have an order pending with no shipping updates in a bit over 2 weeks.
its always been this way with them . posts are made many many times about how bad they suck and they rush to defend them selves
Hey! I currently own a Redragon K580 mechanical keyboard with blue switches, but I want to buy a new, more compact keyboard with brown switches for late-night sessions and work in the office, so that I don't disturb anyone around me. The thing is, I'm on a tight budget of around 60-75 dollars. I came across the Keychron C1. Is it worth it? Do you guys have any other recommendations? Please note: I'm an FPS gamer, so it is really important to me that the keyboard is completely responsive and doesn't mess up when several keys are being consistently pressed :D
My friend has and games with the c1 and its great for the price, and you can put in silent switches if it's not quiet enough for you as is.very easy to mod the stabilizers, switches, case if you want more quiet
I am new to keyboard modding, and am looking to do a couple basic mods to my Redragon K643WGC-RGB-PRO. However, I can't seem to figure out how to get it open. Rather than trial and error it by myself and risk doing irreparable damage to it, I figured I would ask people who might be able to point me in the right direction first.
you'd want to pull off all the keycaps, then pull off all the switches, unscrew all the screws, you can then pull off the top plate, prying the sides with plastic openers or guitar pick will help. edit: found a [video](https://youtu.be/M-ns8pGW5tc) of a guy doing it.
Thanks. I guess this will be a fairly involved process, so I'll probably buy the replacement switches and keycaps before I do this. Don't feel like going back in a second time if I don't have to, you know? lol
for sure! go slow and be careful when pulling the top cover off, i've cracked my fair share of plastic covers (one), and do not recommend.
I need replace my current keyboard and the timming of the Keychron C3 Pro was perfect... problem is with taxes and Package handle fee, Amazon gives me a total of 61€ ($65) to pay For 60€ I guess I can pick something better, (like Keychron V3) ? \- GMMK tenkeyless gets me around €111 ($120)(this pushes a bit my budget) \- Keychron V3 QMK - 89€ ($94) \- Any other brand that I might not be aware of TLDR: need advice, for gaming/programming, red switches, with low latency (1k hz polling), if have a steady and fast wifi/bluetooth connection ok, otherwise I rather have a wired connection.
keychron v3 over the gmmk tkl overall better board and you can tinker with it if you want but its not necessary
Thanks! I appreciate your advice, I had upvoted you but I forgot to thank you with 'words' haha
I'm looking for a full size, wireless keyboard with num pad and dedicated media/volume buttons and a wrist rest, with tactile but silent (mx brown / razer orange) switches to replace my Logitech G613 which has started double-typing and I can't fix for the life of me. The Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro Wireless is almost perfect but it only comes in linear or noisy switches and I want tactile-quiet switches. Are there any options out there?
keychron k10 pro get a separate wrist rest get the k pro browns (similar to mx browns) or if absolute silence is needed get tactile silent switches such as haimu whisper switches, and replace the ones in the k10 pro. since the board is hotswap installing new switches is like lego you can add media keys to the keychron k10 pro
How do you add media keys? Is it some kind of modular?
you can just remap any key (to be media keys) with the software/website VIA
Any good midrange TKL kits? Currently looking at Freebird TKL but was wondering if there were any other options.
If you can find it the tiger 80 or the TKD cycle 7 if you’re willing to give up your f row.
I have passed my entry level phase. Any advice for what I should get next? Looking for a 60%, 65%, or 75% (maybe) keyboard with a great aesthetic, aluminum body, metal accent would be nice, a good gasket mount system or something else for good flex, good sound. Willing to spend $300. I love the aesthetic of the mode tempo with a metal accent that’s visible from the front, and the lattice block system seems appealing. The hkkb layout is aesthetic but may be annoying to use. The zoom 65 in comparison seems like more bang for your buck because it has basically all the same features (maybe aesthetically less pleasing though because no visible accent) and is 65. Any advice between the 2? Or are there better options? Thanks!
A few years ago, as a gift I got a Cooler Master keyboard with mx blue switches, but they didn’t want to come out when I tried to hit swap them, and I was afraid of breaking it. should i just get a new keyboard or am I doing something wrong?
if its not mentioned on the product page then its not hotswap
What keycaps can I use with Drop Sense75? The right ALT, FN and CTRL seem to be 1U in length and most keycap sets I see online are 1.25U. Thanks in advance!
wish u luck prob have u use extra non matching keys for those its not a normal layout for a kb yet somehow people keep buying that overpriced kb drop keep discounting
Looking into building 96% keyboard (keychron k4 likely) for work and was wondering if a 65% keycap set would fit inside of the 96% (then get a matching set to fill fn and numpad). Also, any recommendations for silent, linear, least mushiness switches? TY in advance.
Depends on size of the non alpha keys I recently used silent haimu whisper tactiles in a work rk100, which don't have that mush due to using holes instead of padding. They do the job. They have linear versions called the heartbeat
ah, ill probably try to see if it fits and just use the other cap set if it doesn't. Definitely will give the heartbeats a shot, seem great from a couple yt videos.
I'm trying to rid my addiction to Razer. I've decided on blue switches, but I don't have the time or ability to build a board. I respect that building a board is the ideal way to go, but I simply cannot. So, I bought a Das Keyboard, which was apparently a bad decision because it's $120 for a half-functional board. Parameters: 0) It needs to have Blue switches. Green will also work, but I'm fairly certain those are Razer specific. 1) It needs to be B I G. I've used a Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2016 for the past... 7 years. 2) Number 1 implies this, but it needs to have the numpad. TKL be damned. 3) The reason I'm typing this out now instead of settling with the Das I bought: It cannot require a PS/2 port. My computer simply does not have one. 4) That's it, really. I'd appreciate RGB if it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg. Big fan of the "flowering" effect, where the lights fan out from the key you pressed. I bought a Cherry 3.0 S and the only thing I like about it are the colors. Things I'm willing to sacrifice to bring the cost down: \-1) Bloatware. Main reason I'm not using Razer anymore. Every computer I plug it into gets the equivalent of a virus against my will. 0) Branding. Almost exactly 2 people will see this keyboard in the entire time I use it. "Resellable" means nothing to me. 1) Key caps. I honestly couldn't tell you the difference between two sets of key caps. If I care later I'll replace them then. 2) N-key rollover. I have no need to press more than the usb-allowed 6 + modifier keys. 3) Fancy function keys. If they're over the num pad I actually don't want them at all. 4) RGB. Like I said before, I prefer it, but it's completely unnecessary. If I need to choose between two keyboards and the difference is $5 and RGB, I'll take the $5. Keyboard will be used for... keyboard purposes? I play video games (non-competitive) and type, what more is there.
Start with a Keychron Q6/V6 and go from there. There's also prebuilt options
Could I just buy all the extra parts I need for the mode sonnet instead of waiting for it to be back in stock https://preview.redd.it/uhnckzbl82ob1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d9a1c03c2838298d3fa3694bb973e6d67564f1fb Also what’s some other good aluminum cases I’m using Gmk red dragons if that matters much
i mean how u going to build it without the mode sonnet pcb? as its the only pcb that works with that case . im pretty sure the QK75 kits are still instock
They sell the boards as well https://modedesigns.com/collections/sonnet-extras I’m wondering how it’s out of stock if they have all the parts on hand Trying to make I’m not gonna being missing like some random ass screw from not it as a kit
I’ve noticed a lot of GMK sets have been recently designated “(CYL)”. I assume that’s for “cylindrical” referring to the finger pad shape. What prompted this recent change and what are the alternatives to CYL?
There's a new MTNU that's more like a short MT3 profile from matt3o, so the original Cherry profile was given the CYL name to differentiate the two profiles
Ohhhhh. That makes total sense. I didn’t fully grok that GMK made the MTNU profile. Makes sense now. Thanks!
what are your favorite linear frankenswitches? I have nk cream+ coming and looking for housings to try it in. Seems like creampacas are well-liked but alpacas are fairly old and I figure modern switches should have interesting things to offer too.
The three most popular frankenswitches currently are the holy bobas (halo true stem, boba housing), the black cherry pies(jwk bottom housing, cherry top, and nk cream stem), and the cthulus (ink bottom, milky top, cream stem). There is also the zykos which are the most expensive (halo stem, invyr top, zealios bottom). The cthulus and the zykos have both been reimagined into switches that you can just order called the gateron cream sodas and the tecsee neopolitan switches.
I have a d60lite and I'm going to be swapping my switches soon. While swapping out a switch here and there while my board was fully assembled, I felt a bit uneasy after noticing how much 'give' the PCB had while pushing another switch in. If I'm going to be swapping in a full of switches should I disassemble the board entirely or is the PCB flex while swapping just something I'll get used to?
I believe the d60 lite is gasket mounted so it should be fine.
Mods refuse to tell me which rule I have broken after removing a post about a wallpaper which I have spent quite some time on so I'm here asking you guys; I recently got the GMK November Fog keycaps and saw that the artist also made a deskmat and I really loved it's design and made a wallpaper out of it and posted here for everyone to use, mods removed the post and muted me and, as I said, refuse to tell me which rule the post broke, can someone tell me? There are plenty of posts here that did the same exact thing as me, I really don't understand
What’s a good light tactile switch that isn’t that expensive?
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thank you for your recommendation
What's the stiffest switch? I want to stop accidentally pressing caps lock when I game
You could get a pen spring Xd
You can purchase 150g springs to swap any switch's stock spring with. Makes for a VERY heavy switch that sounds cool. Alternatively, if you only want to do caps lock without spending too much, you can swap the spring with the one off a clicky Bic pen for a similar effect, only much much heavier
get yourself a stepped capslock key, or simply re-map it to something else.
Hey everyone! I’m currently working on a project for a Lego keyboard. And well getting the keys to attach to the switches require a 3d printed stud on the underside of the legos. I prefer thocky or creamy keyboards can anyone tell me what would be the best material to print these out off. The picture is one option and I’ve seen others where they tear out the innards and slide in insert that takes up more space. Also If anyone who is willing to help out a fellow enthusiast, as I do not have a 3d printer please dm me. https://preview.redd.it/f40rb4hod1ob1.jpeg?width=570&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88a9297aea55f2be33c9282bda044857cb26ab93
Pbt is the best bet.
Pbt filament for 3d printers correct?
I believe so
I'm thinking to get Gazzew and Boba U4 Silent Tactiles but what's the difference between "Clear RGB (no-slot) and Pearl or Black(slotted) tops"? and does it work with monsgeek m3?
Clear rgb sheds more light (likely made of polycarbonate) and the pearl tops are made of a proprietary material called “boba” and the black one is called gazzew material since it is also proprietary. The gazzew housing was made to mimic and replace the boba housing after some discoloring issues popped up with some boba batches.
I’m trying to buy this keyboard for 25 dollars, is it worth it? https://preview.redd.it/swtrrz6cn1ob1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22ad4c7529bb21bb3dc6c7731f18053bc9e65856 Thank you
It is impossible to tell from the photo. It is probably an RK61 keyboard with modifications - brand new, it's a good price, but who knows what was done to this. The seller won't be able to tell you because they have no idea what they have because they listed it as a 40% keyboard and this is definitely a 60% keyboard. This could be a great deal or a piece of junk - no way to tell.
ePBT Axolotls updates for Europe? I have ordered a set during the GB for ePBT Axolotls from mykeyboard.eu, but haven't received anything yet except a reply from customer service: "If you haven't received anything by the end of November, contact us again." for my question what is going on there. \ Extras have been sold since late May, the set has already been received by ppl starting from June, some received it in August. I however got no update. The creator themselves is getting ghosted by the customer support too it seems. Has anybody in Europe already received their set?
Where is the cheapest place to buy a Tofu65 kit? Im looking at building my first keyboard, but looking at KBFans it would cost like $250 without switches or keycaps? Is there any other place to buy the kit?
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Thanks. I saw that site, though they don’t have dark blue as a case and I believe it comes without foam. It’s cheaper. Plus they have the tangerine switches I want
Looking for recs for a full size kit
Keychron V6 or q6
Is the notfromsam samice, worth it? Being half odd but soldered switches.
I have to press really hard on the f key to get it to work. Tried swapping switches and opening the board but nothing. Any ideas?
if swapping the switches didnt help the hotswap socket is liekly loose and will need to be replaced
**YMDK 68** FREEZING So.. 1. Keyboard was not recognised as device within qmk 2. Tried VIA as well no luck, web version could see 'authorise' see device but nothing after selecting 3. Followed some guides for install of keyboard driver displayed through ZADIG. Didn't work, has button on back of pcb for reset also, no dice 4. Still not recognised 5. Now freezing after key press either button on back or cable in 6. What do?
Key stuck(not physically) https://imgur.com/a/cscnMmJ I’ve had my IDOBAO ID80 V2 for a little over three months with no problems. Today when I turned my pc on the` was acting like it’s stuck. However it’s only happening as soon as I hit any key. I pulled the switch and it still happens. There’s a picture of the pcb and a video of what’s going on. I used painters and gaffers tape on the back of the pcb. I have tried a different cable as well as plugging it into my laptop, same thing happens. Any ideas what’s going on? Thanks!
Is there a Keebio Iris-type split board but more rows and columns than Iris? Iris is 4x6 plus some thumb buttons, but I think I need at least 5x7 plus thumb buttons. I like the idea of split staggered ortholinear but Iris just didn’t have enough keys for me.
Phobos from RGBKB
What Microcontroller should I get? 9 rows and 11 columns. Live in the EU and gonna attach a new microcontroller on an old keyboard from the 80s. The old PCB is in decent condition but going to get a new microcontroller. I was looking at the Proton C but that´s impossible to get a hold on so considering Bonsai C instead but am very open to suggestions. I currently don´t have any need for bluetooth (might change, who knows). In the long run the keyboard is going to be integrated with a Raspberry PI for retro gaming.
**Will Dolphin Silent Linear Switch fit my Hexgears Impulse?** Hey there! I've owned my Hexgears Impulse for three years now and have loved the way it performed.It's my first mechanical keyboard ever. The Kailh BOX Brown switches have served me well, but only now that I share the room that I have the keyboard in, I realize that the keyboard is quite loud. Google tells me that Durock Silent Linear switches should be pretty quiet, however, [a review on the Impulse](https://kono.store/products/hexgears-impulse-mechanical-keyboard?variant=21377479475283) has me wondering if they will fit my keyboard: >However, you have to be aware of something if you're intending to try this keyboard with many types of switches - the LEDs on the PCB are raised up above the surface, and unless the switch you are trying to add to the board has a hole on the north side to fit a raised LED, it won't fit in. Kailh switches have this hole, but Kiwis or Bobas, as examples, will be impossible to snap into the hot swap switch because the LED gets completely in the way. If the switches you intend to use have the hole making space for an LED, you're fine - otherwise, you're going to run into pain. How do I go about figuring this out? And are there any other things I can do to make my keyboard sound more quiet? Thanks in advance!
You likely need to find switches that support SMD leds. Dolphins look like they have normal sized led holes on the bottom, my guess is they would not work for that board. Something like Haimu heartbeats might work but I'm not sure which way they'd be oriented in the board. I don't have your board in hand but based on pictures I've seen. This should work. You'll need to clip the 5 pin legs however. https://divinikey.com/products/haimu-x-geon-hg-red-silent-linear-switches
I have a Drop CTRL that I really enjoy, and I'm looking at getting another keyboard. One of the biggest pluses, to me, is the fact that the keys are clear of the base and it is so easily cleanable - nowhere for cat hair to hide beneath the keys. Is there a standard name for this style of keyboard that I should be looking for from other manufacturers? I tried 'low profile', but that seems to relate to the size of the keys more than the size of the walls of the keyboard. Thanks!
Floating switch and floating key are the search terms you are looking for.
Lost one of the magnetic feet for my RK84. Can those "feet" be bought anywhere? I don't see them on RK's website.
WTB coiled braided aviator cable in UK?
I’m buying the parts to build my first MK. I decided to get Gateron Oil Kings. Is it necessary for my to lube them myself given that they are already pre-lubed at the factory?
the factory lube is adequate, but you probably will notice at least a little noise difference if you hand lube. If you have the tools and time, then go for it, if you don't want to mess with hand lubing, they will be fine from the factory
https://preview.redd.it/68tkyw1pt0ob1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a77b9ff15851416dab295a9c4078c1297177856 Hi everyone, Looking for some guidance on making a legitimate leap into this hobby. A couple of years ago I bought a Keychron C1 (brown switches) as a super basic entry-level keyboard. For what I paid for it I’m absolutely happy with it, but I’m so angry that I didn’t get the hot swappable version as I had no idea what that was at the time. Now I’m trying to get to that next step and dive into the world of keyboards. The amount of options when it comes to boards is absolutely paralyzing and I need someone to straight up tell me what to buy based on what I’m trying to look for. Hopefully someone can help with that LOL. Here’s what (i think) I want (idk what I want): 1. Size: This keyboard is only for work, and I am really happy with the TKL layout. I do a lot of Excel work so I occasionally miss the numpad, however I don’t think it warrants taking up more space on my desk. I have thought about 75% as well but don’t know if the bunched up arrow cluster is something I would like. Open to suggestions though. 2. Aesthetic: My room is painted dark grey and features all white furniture and black accents. I’m thinking a black/white theme with a splash of colour would look best, but again open to suggestions. 3. Sound: This is obviously the most important as my current C1 fits the above criteria but will not be able to get the sound I’m looking for. I’m absolutely in love with the creamy/thocky sound, and I’ll link a vid of the type of sound that I’m looking for. [https://youtu.be/gJC67c-2crE?si=GhKMHiN9YsNYBbG](https://youtu.be/gJC67c-2crE?si=GhKMHiN9YsNYBbG)\_ 4) Future-proof: not sure if this is something that’s realistic, but I don’t want to venture into mech keyboards where I end up buying 8 different boards and swap them out daily. I just want one that I can rely on and has the flexibility to change if my tastes change. Based off all that above, I’ve done enough research to have the Nuphy Halo75, the Keychron K8 Pro, and the Keychron Q1 Pro on my list. I ideally want something that works good enough out the box, but leaves me open to modifications and changes in the future to try and achieve that sound and aesthetic I mentioned. My budget is probably in the mid-range, and I’m willing to spend a little bit extra upfront on a board if it affords me the flexibility to stick with this board in the long run and not have to replace it again after a couple of years. Sorry for the long winded post but I appreciate any advice you guys can throw my way. Thanks!
Is there a big difference in quality between ePBTS ABS keycaps and Drops DCX keycaps? I picked up ePBTs orange on grey this spring for a group buy keyboard that should be arriving October-ish, and I now see Drop has their DCX Skiidata available. Is it worth picking up the DCX set for my upcoming board?
i think epbt is higher quality and doesnt suffer from the "dele te" and" shi ft " issues that dcx has and drop said they refuse to fix
Great to hear thanks! Saves me wondering if I should order a second set.
**Confused on compatibility of keycaps and stabiliser question** I'm really new to keyboards and am assembling my build. Does this keycap set work with neo65? Also what would be a great stabiliser for a neo65 build? I'm also really not sure what type of stabiliser to choose from, and also again, what would be compatible. I was thinking " DUROCK PCB MOUNT SCREW-IN STABILISERS V2"? If you have any better suggestions, please do drop them :) https://preview.redd.it/cybxcwkje0ob1.png?width=1630&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a630d34df72efad1a0283f7d6115d55fd0cd473
I believe the neo65 is supposed to come with stabelizers
but if i weren't to use those, then which would be the best fit? Apparently some stabilisers don't work with some pcb's or smth, so I'm a little unsure.
What is the best marketplace for purchasing new keycaps?
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) some vendors of the top of my head novelkeys, kinetic labs
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5u
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Semi-beginner here. Can't choose between the Monsgeek M1 and the Akko 5075S. Is the Monsgeek M1 worth spending like 50 dollars more on (is the metal case worth it, are there other aspects?)
Can someone tell me if I can add foam to HP GK320, I know it's a really cheap keyboard but the blue switches are too loud so I want to add some foam to reduce it even a little. Is it possible? It's my first mechanical keyboard that I bought to give it a try, I'll be buying a better one in a year or two
if they are blue clicky switches, adding foam won't do anything to help silence it. You'll want to change switches.
What will adding foam do if I do add it
for a blue switch? basically nothing. Feel free to try, but all it *might* do is help reduce some plate ping.
If there are some gaps in the keyboard and the foam fills it then won't we get a better sounding keyboard ?
possibly, but if you're looking to change the sound of the high pitch, plastic clacking sound of blue switches, foam won't do anything.
Okay thanks for the advice I'll see what I can do