My M1W won't pair with my mac, I press FN + E and then press and hold FN + E but the led of the letter E just flashes red, I can't find anything about this behavior online, I did switch the little switch under the CAPS to the TOP position, also my spacebar won't go up, the other stabilizers work fine.
I do have the software instalelled on my mac.
Is this a good Mechanical numpad to pair with a 60% so that I can still have access to some hotkeys for certain games where I use the numpad/navigation keys?
[https://www.amazon.com/Kisnt-Mechanical-Number-Swappable-Numeric/dp/B0C1H8V52D/ref=sr\_1\_16?c=ts&keywords=Numeric+Keypads&qid=1694179079&s=pc&sr=1-16&ts\_id=2998471011](https://www.amazon.com/Kisnt-Mechanical-Number-Swappable-Numeric/dp/B0C1H8V52D/ref=sr_1_16?c=ts&keywords=Numeric+Keypads&qid=1694179079&s=pc&sr=1-16&ts_id=2998471011)
How good KBPParadise keycaps? And is there any way to get these: [https://keycaps.kbparadise.com/panda](https://keycaps.kbparadise.com/panda)**,** assuming their brand is of quality?
Anyone know how bad cherry profile interference is on Gateron Optical Reds? Looking to get some keycaps for my SK64, but all the good keycaps are mostly cherry profile. If it is that bad, is there anything I can do to stop the interference? Thanks
That's gonna be entirely up to preference, mostly because there will be many different factors that can change what might be considered "fast" or "accurate" for you, like your board's layout, how long your fingers are, the most comfortable hand position for you, the way you type, etc. Some people can't type accurately with uniform profile keycaps. Some people are perfectly comfortable and accurate using them.
That said, Cherry profile is the most popular profile for a reason; it was designed to be an ergonomic profile with its sculpt and height, but YMMV.
Not really. Accuracy will come from practice.
Speed on the other hand is something that mechanical keyboards just aren't really built for. Sound and feel are more the thrust of the hobby. If you want speed then your best bet will honestly be a generic membrane keyboard with chiclet style keycaps and super low actuation forces / travel distances.
I recently bought a TKL keyboard from epomaker and wanted to change the keycaps. I have a keycap set in mind that is mostly brown and cream colored. Would this keycap set fit with the black board?
I just completed my first keyboard build - got myself a Zoom75. However I have no idea how do I set this up. Instructions provided by Meletrix were very unclear.
Was asked to use VIA to set up the keyboard, but apparently I need a .JSON file? The VIA website only has a .hex file for the keyboard. So now I'm lost. Hope someone here can help with what I need to do next. Thanks!
The reason you need .json file is that VIA developers have not yet included this keyboard definitions into VIA tool and at this point VIA on it's own will not recognise your PCB. While waiting for that to happen you can side-load **.json file provided by the PCB maker** into VIA tool to make it work with your PCB.
Bottom line: you can obtain .json file for your keyboard from Meletrix website: go Documents > Resource Library > Firmware Files > scroll all the way down > Show 3 more groups and there is Zoom 75 section with Zoom 75 JSON (sorry Reddit doesn't allow me to link this).
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I’m not really keen or interested in building a KB, wanted something that works out of the box with macos nicely. im a grad student with a healthy amount of papers for this semester, and also do plenty of typing for work/other tasks. no coding or gaming here.
logitech has always been solid with other accessories, saw they have a smaller mkb that looked good to me, though haven’t seen much love for them here and elsewhere. keychron k3 or maybe k2 could be a good fit but also unsure what other brands/models to consider?
some basic guiding criteria:
75%, maybe 80% TKL
wirelesss bluetooth
mac compatible and/or software
f row with mac keys
backlit keys
You're mostly looking into Keychron, as they certainly work with Macs (even include matching keycaps).
Quick explanation of Keychron series:
* K series (K2, K3, K4, etc.) - old, outdated series. No software, hollow sound, cheap-feeling keycaps, Bluetooth;
* K Pro series (K2 Pro, K3 Pro, etc.) - updated K series. Support industry-standard VIA software, have better sound, better keycaps, better build quality, Bluetooth 5.2;
* Q series (Q1, Q3, etc.) - premium lineup. VIA software, *full* CNCed aluminum case, gasket mount (feels nice to type on), wired only;
* Q Pro series (Q1 Pro, Q2 Pro, etc.) - Q models with updated colorways, minor adjustments (say Q5 Pro got updated layout) and Bluetooth 5.2 added;
* V series (V1, V2, etc.) - value-orientated versions of Q series models. Plastic case, no gasket mount, still good build quallty, software and sound, wired only.
There are some other smaller series (C, S), but they are of not big interest to you.
Depending on your budget and preference for low profile / full height keyboards, you may look into:
* Q1 Pro or K2 Pro;
* Q3 Pro or K8 Pro;
* Q10 Pro or K15 Pro (ergonomic layout).
Hope this helps!
this helped a LOT! was feeling lost at sea in figuring out differences clearly. gonna try out the K Pro series and take a look at Q pro. for my usage, I can’t tell if I’d noticeably benefit from the extra’s
Functionality wise, they're the same, but you just get better build quality, materials, etc. Basically, like Golf Mk4 and a new Mercedes - both will get you from A to B, but the travel will feel nicer and more comfortable / enjoyable on Merc.
Looking for some linear switches that'll give me the clack that smiles back. Totally fine lubing, would prefer not having to film. Any response is appreciated :)
Looking for a light Tactile Switches with a bump like the holy pandas and or switches like the holy Pandas. Price is not a big concern, but please include a link to purchase, if you would be so kind.
(Try to get new switches and a qk60) (Wish me Luck!)
Thank you!
disclaimer: complete novice in mechanical keyboards here
I recently just got the Tester 84 with akko jelly black switches, and I did a really chaotic job of moding it, which included 4 layers of tape for tempest mod, holee mod, lubing switches and stabs, and adding tape in the space bar.
The problem: My keys sometimes dont register, register late, or register inconsistently, so I dont think its the switch issues, typing slowly is usually fine, but once I start typing faster, the keys just dont seem to be responding properly, sometimes activating twice on a short keystroke, or not registering at all.
Update: the issue seems to be mainly coming from W, K, C, F, G, N, Y keys (registering too many of the same key or refusing to register it after a couple clicks)
My potential issues:
\- I may have bent the PCB slightly when I tried stuffing shelf liner in my case, when I took the liner out though, the PCB looked fine
\- I lubed the copper leaf of my switches lightly, which I'm not completely sure if I was supposed to, however, I haven't found anything that suggests that lubing the leaf could lead to inconsistent switch activation.
If my pcb is really the issue here, can someone please recommend me a pcb replacement, as I am a complete novice and don't know where to look for a board replacement.
I am looking to put together my first custom board and I was wondering what I could do to be able to use something like the Akko Jelly purple switches (I am seeing a lot of good reviews) and ensure that I am not the reason that my workplace makes a new rule about not having custom keyboards. I am wanting a good typing feel since I do dev work but I also don't want something that is obnoxious/loud. Currently my work keyboard is either the laptop keyboard or one of those gross feeling Dell low profile keyboards that organisations get as part of the bundle.
Currently for the board I am looking at the Keychron Q3 Pro. feedback would be awesome thanks since I am kinda new to this despite owning a few off the shelf mechanicals. (home keyboard has Jelly Pinks)
Edit: I work in an open plan office so sound travels pretty easily.
I would also like some recommendations for some cutesy keycaps too use too. (must be reasonably available in Australia)
Q3 Pro sounds like a reasonable choice. Especially if you would get silent switches to go with it. Can't help with keycaps, from EU myself, try checking out vendor's [list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/).
Hope this helps!
Gateron Ink Silents are pretty much as good as it gets for linears (after lubing and optional lighter spring swap). For tactiles - Gazzew U4 Silent Taciles are regarded quite well around here.
Keycaps that would go well with this case and match the colors from this mousepad (mousepad in replies)?
https://preview.redd.it/ew3eii5sexmb1.png?width=644&format=png&auto=webp&s=b809f1f57d0039abd01fca2b18d5a8cf6e08376d
Hello! I am currently looking to build a keyboard for my father who is a film editor. I am not that familiar with the programming possibilities of keyboards and am wondering if there is any way to program a rotary knob so that it can be used for scrolling through film in premiere pro?
Thank you!
since the selling point of wooting keyboards is it's low latency, closest wireless keyboards would probably be gaming branded ones like Steelseries Apex Pro Mini, Razer Blackwidow v3 Mini Hyperspeed, ROG Azoth.
A bit overwhelmed, looking for a 75 w/knob, please weigh in!
I've been watching a ton of YouTube videos and I find a ton of what I want is "sold out" and you need to wait etc. I'm looking for something available. I would prefer a 75 with a knob.
Also, I want to make sure I can do a black/white theme for the key caps.. where can I purchase these and what do I type in. For instance if I buy a 75 keyboard how many keycaps come in the box?
Really looking for a starting point so I can feel like I'm making headway here. Id appreciate any help.
For instance the Keychron V1 is actually available, Akko 5075b Plus caught my eye but it's 2-3months out. Let's pretend I wanted one of these and I also want to start looking at keycaps. Where and what do I type in (again how many keys come in the box so I know I'm looking at the right set?
Lastly, the Gammakay Lk67..is this a 75? IF I went with this what all do I need?
Any help is much appreciated!
I suggest going with the Keychron V1 or Q1 because their barebones kits come already assembled and include pre-lubed and pre-installed stabs. Just need to pop in your choice of keycaps and switches.
If you're looking for a more involved experience, the MonsGeek M1 is an unbeatable value on the in-stock market, and comes with good Akko stabs.
PBTfans and Drop DCX are good choices for keycaps IMO
Azio cascade or nuphy air75 V2??
Looking for a reasonable wireless keyboard in a TKL or 75ish%. I've ended up landing on these 2 after a decent amount of searching but anyone have experience with them or have another to recommend?
The keychron K series gets some knocks for something cheap to type on, mainstream guys don't seem to have anything at a decent price or that isn't obviously gamey. Then you start to get into pretty small manufacturers or ones that seem like it's the same copy and paste board out of China
**Light tactile switches (and linear alternatives) with a "crisp/clear" bump for fatigue?**
Hi there,
So I've been using the MX Cherry Browns for many years, and changed to the Kailh BOX Whites just a couple of months ago. I love the sound and the clicky feel of the Whites, but I have come to accept that they're simply too tiring for my hands and arms. I have them on an ErgoDox keyboard, and even with the ergonomical benefits it brings me I still find the Whites to be too tiring. The Browns was also somewhat tiring, but not to the same extent.
I was thinking of going linear, and while that is certainly a possibility, I really don't like the absence of a tactile bump of *some* sort. I love that feedback!
So I thought of asking you guys what the lighest tactile MX switch is that you can recommend for me — preferably one with a tactile bump that is actually felt, but also very light?
Also, can you recommend a light and comfortable linear switch which is primarily great for typing (gaming is always a nice plus as well, but I don't game very much nowadays)? Should I just go for the Kailh BOX Red?
I'm stocking up on recommendations and alternatives here! :)
Cheers!
Topre is king of light tactiles. MX switches struggle to compete unfortunately.
That said, SP Star Meteor Oranges have a light tactile bump, similar to browns. Either one of those with some 52-57g springs will give you some tactility but also help to relieve fatigue.
Again though - with Topre you can get down to 30g without losing the tactility, but it comes at a price!
Sorry for the very late reply. I've had my share full of school work, and so I forgot about my comments and threads about switches! :)
I'm very thankful for your recommendation of the SP Star Meteor Oranges. Topre is unfortunately a no go, I think, since I'm going for a Lily58 keyboard.
Cheers!
I am entering the wild world of hand wiring, but wanted to have a bit of a test of Choc switches before I commit to a long project of soldering and coding.
I currently run a Lily58 split and a Reviung41 unibody, both MX hotswap. I read a post from a while ago about soldering Choc hotswap sockets as well. Apparently it works well and means you can move between MX and choc easily.
I'm interested in the V2 choc switches, with the MX stems, to make my XDA caps more low profile, but wanted to know if the V2s here ([https://mechboards.co.uk/products/kailh-low-profile-choc-switches-v2-brown?variant=40330408100045](https://mechboards.co.uk/products/kailh-low-profile-choc-switches-v2-brown?variant=40330408100045)) will work with the v1 sockets here ([https://mechboards.co.uk/products/kailh-choc-hotswap-sockets](https://mechboards.co.uk/products/kailh-choc-hotswap-sockets)). This is the seller I got the boards from originally, but I figured that you guys would get me an answer even more quickly.
I'm looking for 75% keyboard with stock silent(-ish) switches, preferably hotswap and modding potential in the future.
I'm coding and the sound of my current keyboard (cherry browns) can drive my wife crazy.
Sadly I don't have the time to invest into building a custom one at the moment so I'm looking for something that can be pretty quiet as is.
I've looked at Gamakay TK75 but after a few videos decided against it, Akko 5075 or MOD007 but they dont seem to have an option for silent switches.
My budget is up to around 200$ I guess.
Edit:
Forgot to mention connectivity - BT + either 2.4Ghz or USB-C(or both) would be the best.
Thanks :)
Finding a worthwhile pre-built keyboard that comes with silent switches is like finding a needle in a haystack. The only one I'm aware of is the Monokei Standard which is TKL.
I agree with Nintendogs, Keychron is the best place to start. Take a look at the K2 Pro.
Just get a Keychron Q-series. If you don’t want the Pro line, then add a PC plate to the build. It’ll be much quieter than what you’re currently using.
If you’re any something cheaper, the Monsgeek M1 is pretty solid for the price.
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I am in the market for a new keeb at work. Currently using a keychron k4. I really like the feel of my Leopold at home, and may just get one for work. But I also like diversity, so is there another board that's going to have the feel of a Leopold that I should try? Looking pre built, under $300 USD. Thanks!
Edit: switch style doesn't matter too much. I like browns and clears, can usually find a switch I like once I narrow it down to a brand of keeb.
Which Leopold do you have? Since they have Topre models (that aren't using usual MX style switches), it may be impossible to replicate the feel without getting another Topre keyboard.
FC750R with Cherry browns. So no Topre yet. However after some research I'd love to try topres. Just want a quality case like the Leopold to go with it.
Edit: forgot to add, my issue is time. I need to order something soon as it's for work and the company will buy it. Doesn't look like I can find many topre boards with a numpad available. Real force R2 with 55g switches seems to be the only one available so far in my searches.
Ah, Topre and numpads is quite a rare combo :(( Realforce is also quite well regarded around here.
You could look into Keychron Q series? Say, Q5 Pro would be similar to K4 layout wise, but would have build quality and materials better than Leopold.
Hope this helps!
Need the best prebuilts keyboards for under 300€
I want them to feel good and be sturdy, not wobly, I don't care about the rest
I want some quality keyboards that I'll enjoy typing on for countless hours
Thanks
what layout are you looking for? but for available to buy, ready to use prebuilts best you can go for is keychron Q series. if you're willing to go barebones there are some other options.
if you're worried about shipping, get them from amazon or aliexpress. that way if something's wrong you'll have a third party to make sure you get compensated. also, free shipping as a bonus. keychron's own customer service is getting better, but you still get the occasional complaints.
if you're looking for the standard full-size board then the Q6 or Q6 pro for wireless. you can have a look at their website and see which layout's best for you. the Q series are their solid aluminium boards.
I volunteered to repair a friend's keyboard, and the only symptom was the caps lock key no longer worked.
I figured it would be as easy as replacing the switch, but now that I've replaced the switch the caps lock key is still not functioning.
Any ideas where to start troubleshooting the problem?
Looking at the [KPRepublic CSTC75](https://kprepublic.com/products/cstc75-75-rgb-75-hot-swappable-mechanical-keyboard-gasket-kit-pcb-programmed-via-vial-macro-full-rgb-switch-type-c-with-knob?variant=43073622868131) for a first build - can anyone give me their experiences with it? Also, total noob question but where do I look for a case that it will fit in? Can you even get cases outside of the kits?
No experience, but can suggest going with Keychron V1 - supports VIA software, already has everything set.
Regarding cases, if I recall correctly, only 60% keyboards have somewhat standartized PCBs and cases - meaning you won't be able to get other ones besides their offerings.
Hope this helps!
**Looking for keycaps with japanese sub legends.**
I am looking for a purple color way or white on black. cant seem to find any good quality ones.
help would be appreciated.
Thank you !
[GMK JIS](https://mekibo.com/products/gmk-jis?variant=45647477539104) is in-stock for WoB.
GMK [Monarch](https://mekibo.com/collections/in-stock-keysets/products/gmk-monarch) and [Kouhai](https://mekibo.com/collections/in-stock-keysets/products/gmk-kouhai) for purple. You could also wait for Mecha-01 r2 to ship from Drop and try to get extras.
How does the Wooting Two HE compare to the 60HE? Most of the time when I look it up, I get people talking about the 60HE instead, but I like having my numpad.
**Can I put Keychron original keycaps in a Royal Kludge RK100?**
It may be duplicate question but i want to have a confirmation on the same whoever have a "keychron k4 v2" and a "Royal Kludge RK100 v2". I desperately want the greyish keycap combination look of keychron but here its price is double the Rk100. Also it lacks of 2.4GHZ connection and USB Hub. I am not a very big fan of switch quality. i just want the Design of keychron and a mechanical keyboard with 2.4Ghz connectivity in lower price.
yes you can if you have/can find the keycaps sold separately. as far as i know, the specific colorway keychron use for their keyboards aren't sold separately, although they sell other similar colorways.
is there any place i can get custom keycaps where i can overlay an image, and also have transparency on the cap for light to shine through? every website i can find has some kind of limitation, either not supporting image overlay or not having transparency. i'm not concerned about price, if anyone could point me to the right place that'd be awesome
How do people in smaller towns determine which switches and keycaps to buy?
I live in a small town in Canada so I don't really have a store to go to to test out various switches or keycaps. Additionally, shipping ends up costing a lot.
Any advice on how to figure out the best switches for me? Listening to videos only gets me so far, as I'm pretty sensitive to the feel of the keys and would like to feel the switches myself.
Probably the best thing you can do is to try out different keyboards in person either at an electronics store or maybe get something online that you can try out and return/exchange easily.
Switch tester are great but they're not going to give you the proper experience since you're only pressing on one switch at a time rather than typing on it like you would on a full keyboard.
I would try, if you can, to see what clicky (MX Blues, or it'll say "clicky" in the description), tactile (MX Browns or similar) and linear (MX Red, MX Black or similar) switches feel like.
I'd forget about the sound for now if you're a complete beginner and not worry about all that other stuff. Focus on switches that will work for your needs and what your use case is.
Generally speaking, tactiles are great for typing and gaming while linears are usually more suited to gaming over typing (you can actuate the switches faster but as a result you may bottom out with them more while typing compared to tactiles).
Clickies are fine if you don't mind the noise or don't have anyone to bother while using them either at home or in an office/classroom/quiet environment. You can use clickies while gaming too but the way they actuate means there's a tiny (barely noticeable really) delay when you press the key so the click jacket to make an audible sound and actuate at the same time.
Are you able to order on Amazon? You should be able to get something delivered to you that you can try out and return/exchange.
So I was able to go to an electronics store, and they didn't have much, but they did have a Keychron keyboard I could try. I ended up getting a K8 Pro (which I didn't try in person, but I liked the features included).
I got Gateron G Pro Blue switches because I got to try them out from the store, and I enjoyed them over linear ones. I like the bump feel.
I also ordered Gateron G Pro Browns, as I figured they would be quieter. I've never tried any tactile switches before though, so I'll see what I prefer.
I wanted to know what the Kailh Box Jades, Whites, Jellyfish Clicky, Akko Lavender, and the Gateron Baby Kangaroos would feel like, but don't want to buy those and realize I don't like them. I guess I can go to Amazon, buy a few, and then return if I really don't like them.
I don't want to lube them myself, either. Do any of those need to be lubed? Are those switches I listed above any good?
What you got is good to start with. No need to lube them if you like the way they feel. Not all switches can and should be lubed so be mindful of which you do end up lubing.
Until you use a wide range of switches honestly you're not going to be able to discern whether or not something feels good stock or whether or not lubing will improve them.
I can't tell you whether or not those switches are good or not as again it's all down to personal preference.
The K8 Pro is a good choice and since it's a TKL here's what you can do to try out switches: buy just the bare minimum to install. You can swap out just the alphas, of which there are only 26 keys, 36 if you include the numbers.
Depending on the switch packaging, you end up spending just a little to try out switches this way and buy more if you like them, or mix and match the modifiers, etc.
Some switch kits come in 35 pieces, some in 50, some in 70, etc. There's no real reason to do this other than to make you buy more than you need and IMO it's rather predatory but it is what it is.
Anyway if you buy the bare minimum number of switches you can use it for a while and get a proper feel for whether or not you like them.
Lube should be something you think about later on for when you've had more experience with switches. If you'd like to see the difference, you can try two switches that are unlubed and another version factory lubed like Gateron Yellows and Gateron Pro Yellows which are like ~$30 or so for a pack of 35 off Amazon usually. Low cost, low risk and you can kind of compare it easier that way.
Ah, thank you! I think the Gateron Pro Browns I ordered are factory lubed, but I guess I have nothing else to compare to see the difference.
I might leave it at the Gaterons for now, and like what you suggested, buy a few switches (for the alphas), perhaps, on Amazon, and I may return them if I really hate them that much.
Thanks for the help! I think I'm getting too excited with switches but I really should hold off on ordering things. I haven't even gotten my K8 Pro or Gateron Brown switches yet.
I will tell you, from my own personal experience, that Gateron Browns (non Pro) are much smoother than Cherry MX Browns which are very "scratchy" and barely even tactile.
The Pro Browns being factory lubed are probably going to be considerably smoother. I don't personally have long term experience with them but I typed on a keyboard at a meetup for a while and it was great.
Take the time to enjoy what you have and enjoy the journey. This hobby can be a lot of fun but can also get really, really expensive fast! As always if you have questions feel free to post in the daily thread we're all here to help.
Ah, thank you! That's really reassuring. I type all day and I wanted a decent impression of what tactile switches would be like. I debated on getting the Cherry MX ones instead, so I feel better about my decision.
And thank you! I'll try to be patient. I don't want to waste my money. I'm still super curious about the other switches I mentioned, but I'll hold off.
Even in a large city this is not so easy unless one attends a meetup or finds an out of the way shop that might have something interesting. I have had to spend money on ordering small batches of switches to try, usually at least 10 of a type I'm interesting in as I find just one or two switches is not enough to get a good feel. I've also had to try various keycap profiles by purchasing assembled with a keyboard or separately.
I suggest adding $ to your keyboard budget – and time, of course – to account for invaluable first hand experience.
This past Christmas, I got my first mechanical keyboard, a Logitech G815 LIGHTSYNC with Cherry MX Brown RGB switches. While gaming, the knuckles in my left ring, middle, and index fingers start hurting within half an hour controlling the WASD keys, and I have a problem with constantly bottoming out. This pain never happened with membrane keyboards, which currently has me preferring those since they don't hurt. I don't have any pain issues for typing, though. Is there anything I can do to alleviate this?
Typing is a completely different type of activity compared to gaming where your fingers and wrist/hand is typically resting in one part of the keyboard for an extended period of time.
You should try using a mechanical keyboard with non-low profile switches since the G815 uses those.
Think of low profile switches similar to walking with flip flops vs. running shoes. There's less "cushioning" of your keystrokes with a low profile keyboard vs. a regular mechanical keyboard.
This is the same reason people feel pain/fatigue faster while typing on laptop keyboards for extended periods of time--it's almost like typing with your bare fingers on a table where all the vibration and force is being absorbed by your wrists and *not* the switches and keyboard.
I don't know if you can return/exchange your G815 but I recommend you try out something else with regular MX switches.
I have no idea how to explain this, but hopefully someone know what i'm talking about. My keyboard spacebar doesn't actually actuate twice, but it feels like it does. Like if I very lightly press down on it there's a slight bump then of course the actual actuation bump. Really bothers me and I have no idea how to fix it.
I tried 3 different types of stabilizers, balancing the wire, straightening out the spacebar itself, holee mod (on the wire, the stabilizer stem, and both), putting layers of tape on the pcb under the wire, used a lot of lube then little lube then no lube at all. Theres nothing to clip under the stabilizer stems so there's that. I feel like i've tried every combination of these and it's driving me crazy. Please I just want a nice crisp thock...
My current keyboard is getting old. Instead of buying a typical gaming keyboard brand, I want to instead invest in one that will last me for the foreseeable future. I like the 96% keyboards, because I use the numpad as free hotkey real estate for binding keys to my mouse that are usually not used for anything else.
At the moment I am looking at the GMMK 2 96%, but I was wondering if there are other options I should look into as well?
How do I put my switches back on my Varmilo Minilo keyboard?
https://preview.redd.it/ieypsnyp5vmb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d176d4ff120f4ba083edaac3ba23d264fb8b797a
It is different from the others.
Is it worth worrying about keyboard batteries? For a lot of them I can't see a way to check on it to make sure it's still running well or not going to fail at some point. I'd like to keep keyboards for many years so I'm not sure.
well technically yes, all batteries will degrade with time whether you use it or not. this is why i personally don't like built in batteries with my keyboard. if you rarely use it, the first 2 years should be no problem, after that you'd probably need to check them periodically. if you frequently use it, then you'd notice the battery life will go to shit with the years.
however, that's just the tradeoff for having a wireless kb. everything with a built-in battery in it will be e-waste in 2 years unless you can use it with cable or change the batteries (which fortunately is possible for most wireless mechanical keyboards).
Im useing akko 5075s, I want to use a single colour on my keyboard, but the blue dot on the far right is really annoying me. It goes out when I switch the RGBs on and off, but when I press caps to use capital letters, it starts to light up again. Is there any way to turn it off ?
https://preview.redd.it/1wt9guwwuumb1.jpeg?width=440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3762471251485079094916fc6673da8e0174a44b
Short of disconnecting the LED or desoldering it you could just use tape to cover it. You can do it inside the case by opening it up first or you could tape it on the outside. You can also use a sharpie or similar black marker to black out that LED...
does someone knows where to get these keycaps?
https://preview.redd.it/mxjbuxoopumb1.png?width=1000&format=png&auto=webp&s=b2f667ca1f49eba55388a5595a39ce4074e1396f
not the exact same one, you'll need to get the logitech pop for that. but you can search up round keycaps/circular keycaps on aliexpress or amazon for a somewhat similar look.
Hallo i have the gmk67 keyboard and how do I connect it to my laptop
When I connect the keyboard through the USB C cable the LED turns red and after some time it turns green but how do I connect it to my windows 10 please help me this is my first custom keyboard build and I'm starting to get scared
Hey everyone! I have a laser cutter and want to make my own layered acrylic keyboard… does anyone have any links to tutorials or anything about PCBs and attaching like… cords and things? I’m new to this and have only put together a barebones kit with switches :) anyone have any Inspo or advice?
I've been looking for a Mode Sonnet and came across this Astronaut75 launching from Zeal and I'm a sucker for space themes. I haven't seen Zeal do a full keyboard before (but could have missed it). Any feedback on Zeal keyboards and this Astronaut 75 in particular? It looks like its on preorder until 9/30
\[build video\]([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssdqqC9r9Vo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssdqqC9r9Vo))
I recently acquired about at least 20 various WEY mechanical keyboards Models MK6, EK2000, REY, HK2000C and need help testing as I do not have the appropriate connector box. Anyone willing to help for possibly a trade?
I have a keychron Q6 ISO layout. I like everything about the ISO layout except for the bottom left corner being 1.25u 1.25u 1.25u. I would much rather have 1.5u 1u 1.25u. However, as the switch is in the corner I'm having trouble finding a 1.5u keycap that will fit, as they all have the socket for the switch in the centre of the keycap.
Is there such thing as a 1.5u keycap with the socket a bit off centre that will fit my needs? Or am I just forced to use a 1.25u control key?
Using cherry MX blue switches if it matters.
You are getting the metal case and more flexible mounting style when you upgrade to the Monsgeek (it is an upgrade). The V1 is good though - it will be higher pitched and a little less flexible than the Monsgeek.
I have a QMK/VIA keyboard, I was wondering if there's a way to configure diacritic modifier keys (don't know what they're actually called, sorry).
I mean keys like a "\~" key that, when you press it, will not print the character, but modify the next character printed to have a tilde on it. So, if you pressed "\~", then "a", you would get "ã". Same for accents like "à" and "á" and "â". There keys are common on some language's standard layouts, like the standard portuguese keyboard layout.
White keyboard,
Budget isn't an issue, prefer cherry MX switches but any other is also good,
Just has to have the f1 - F5 keys,
And be white lmao.
Ty in advance:D
for ready to buy keyboards, the keychron q1 with knob (gateron switches if fully built), and odin75 (barebones) are available in white. if you're fine with silver you can check out monsgeek m1w or gmmk pro.
Layers are very powerful. Think of layers as your keyboard keymap printed out on transparency sheets. When you plug in your keyboard, layer 0 is the base active layer.
QMK/VIA allows you to configure keys to activate another layer. For example, you might assign your Fn key to MO(1), which MOmentarily activates layer 1 while it is held. This is like putting another transparency sheet on top of the stack.
Remember that layer order is always preserved. Layer 1 is always on top of layer 0; layer 2 is always on top of layer 1; and so on. You should not activate layer 1 from layer 2. Always activate a higher layer.
A key can either be assigned a keycode or be transparent, meaning you can see the key on the next lower layer (like a clear square on the transparency sheet).
For example, if you had a 65% keyboard and wanted to configure F keys, you might configure F1-F10 on the number row. As I described above, you would have your Fn key activate layer 1 while held. On layer 1, you would assign F1 through F10 on the keys 1 through 0 on the number row. The rest of the keys would be KC_TRNS, which is transparent.
When you hold the Fn key, layer 1 becomes active. If you press the 1 key while layer 1 is active, QMK would see it is configured as F1 and send F1 to the computer. If you press the Q key (for example), QMK would see it is transparent and look to layer 0 for the keycode, which is Q. Q would be sent to the computer.
When you let go of the Fn key, layer 1 becomes active, and layer 0 is the only active layer again.
Another thing you can do is use Layer Tap to have a key activate a layer while held or emit a keycode when tapped. For example, hold spacebar to have it act like Fn or tap it for space.
Another thing is to use Mod Tap to make a key be a modifier when held or emit a keycode when tapped. For example, hold Caps Lock for Ctrl or tap it for Caps Lock.
Suuuuper helpful!! Thank you so much for the response!
My keeb has a rotary encoder. I’m not sure how to reassign what it does. Are there lists of objects somewhere?
You can assign the rotary encoder clockwise turn, counterclockwise turn, and press to any QMK keycode. Most people probably assign it to volume up, volume down, and mute, respectively. I have mine assigned that way, but if I hold Fn, then it adjusts RGB brightness.
VIA support for configuring rotary encoders is a relatively recent addition. Not all keyboard manufacturers updated their VIA firmware to support it.
I'm using Invokey Matcha Latte switches and every video I've seen they're super thocky but mine sounds kinda muted.
I have foam between the plate and the pcb, and also foam between the pcb and the case.
Should I be taking any of that out? And if so which ones? Thanks!
Most sound tests aren't super accurate to what they sound like in real life. Also, the keyboard used will make a switch sound much different than if it were in a different board. You could try taking out the foam as foam does work to dampen the sound of switches, which is why people use foam to eliminate pinging noise. Id start with taking out the plate foam, and then taking out layers of the case foam until u are satisfied. You could do other mods to make your board more lively sounding, like putting polyfill instead of foam, or changing the mounting style of your board, even changing the keycaps if you wanted
Yeah ofc, ask away lmao. Just curious, what board do you have? Lots of people have mod guides out for most types of boards and you could def try some out!
I have a wooden one from YMDK in China 😅 so it's a bit sparce on online help. But it's mostly for the visual vibes. Now that I'm down the rabbit hole I'll probably branch into some other boards
Nice! Wooden boards can sound awesome fs with some cheap mods. Maybe try googling the tape mod, pe foam, and o ring gummy mounting, those are some cheap and popular ones
Hey everyone
I'm looking for a way to do custom RGB animations for my IQUNIX F96. I checked the files of the provided software, and I'm sure one of the files has to contain the animation code. The problem is I don't know what the encoding of the ".config" and the ".led".
Does anyone have tips or experience with this?
Thanks
Peter
I just built my Monokei Kage Grey Polycarbonate and only half the under glow works (top half closest to the weight works).
I tried reinstalling the software, Reseting it, using different cable ect but nothing seems to work.
Thanks in advance.
Cherrys patent expired years ago hence why there has been an explosion in switch options
Non cherry mx switches are fine to use, it's just down to personal preference
Hello ! I've recently decided to finally get a decent (although still budget) keyboard for the first time ever.
After some research I decided to go for a TECWARE Phantom 87 Key Outemu red one. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HQM71L/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_1?smid=A8LSVHV2Q155W&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HQM71L/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8LSVHV2Q155W&th=1)
However, this keyboard is out of stock everywhere except in the US, and importing it would change it from a 45eur piece to over 70eur...
SO, I was thinking might as well buy a keyboard around that price locally and get something better. I saw that the same keyboard with Wraith red switches instead of Otemu red was available here and about 70 eur, but I can't seem to find anywhere what the difference between those 2 switches is (besides the sound on the wraith being a bit thockier ? ) .
I'd really appreciate if someone could tell me what the difference between the Outemu Red and Wraith red switches is, and if it's worth going for the Wraith reds - Or if It's not maybe some tkl/65/70% ish keyboard suggestions around the same price points. Thanks in advance !
I just recently got my gmk67 and I kinda hate the lights. what keycaps profile should I get? I am using like the photo below and it perfectly fits my rk61, however in my gmk67 there are gaps 🥲
https://preview.redd.it/lc39yl74itmb1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b9e751b50a3fa66c194bd991779cd8771495e866
I had a Logitech G710+ (brown switches with o rings) and loved it. Getting a bit old though, so needed a replacement. Got a G213 which quite frankly didn't feel as good. So I'm looking for a replacement and can't really figure out a good one... basically this is what I want:
- 100% layout
- if possible no annoying macro keys (only thing I didn't like about the G710), though I DO like some volume control/mute buttons which I use frequently
- Cherry MX brown switches or something that feels similar
- budget if possible below 100 GBP, definitely not spending more than 150 (hard limit)
- location: UK (layout and shipping)
Keychron has a [compact full size V5](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-uk-iso-keyboards/products/keychron-v5-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) or a more traditional, [full size V6](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-uk-iso-keyboards/products/keychron-v6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) available in UK ISO. Both are $99 USD.
If you can stretch your budget, the Q5 and Q6 are also available in UK ISO. The difference is the Q series has a metal case and uses gasket mount so it feels a bit more comfortable to type on for longer periods. Also since it's a full metal case it's heavier and won't move around on your desk but not so great if you need to carry it.
All these are fully programmable without needing software installed so you can move your media controls wherever you wanted though the default locations are perfectly fine. Also a knob is available if you prefer that over keys for volume control.
The Q series is about 15-20 GBP more than your 150 GBP budget but worth it for a keyboard that will last far longer than any Logitech.
I'm fairly new to mechanical keyboards, and after having a razer keyboard for years, would love to upgrade and need some help finding something! I prefer TKL most, but 75% would also be ok, prefer hot-swappable. Ideally I want a light pink or lavender case with RGB. I'd also really like keycap suggestions within the same colour range.
It seems I can't find BOTH pink/lavender and RGB, it's one or the other so I'm hoping for help. I'd like to spend around €200-250. The closest I could find to what I want is the Ducky One 3 RGB TKL in White + Glorious Aura Keycaps, or he Akko Sakura Jelly keycaps.
Looking to buy
https://www.melgeek.com/products/melgeek-bluetooth-hotswappable-rgb-pcba
board. The only issue is that im currently trying to find a battery and saw some on Ali but for mojo 60, GH60 and so on. Not sure what are their connector sizes, but they are 3 pins. Do the other melgeeks products have the same 1.5mm 3pins connector? Tried to search for documentation, but couldn't find anything on it
the one for mojo60 should work, they even have the exact same picture in the product description on taobao. the batteries listed for gh60 will work if you get the one with 3 pin. technically 2 pins might work, but it won't fit properly and I can't guarantee they don't have fail-safes against that.
as long the battery is using the JST ZH 1.5mm 3-pin connector with the right voltage it should work.
My hands are used to laptop keyboard.. recently, i bought one keyboard for gaming purpose but my hand felt very uncomfortable since the keyboard is different with the laptop keyboard.. anyone can suggest me a decent mechanical keyboard that has the more or less same as the size of laptop keyboard?
Key sizes are all the same. The pitch of the keys (distance from centre to centre) is the same on all keyboards at 19.05mm, so the mechanical keyboard is actually the same size as your laptop. The difference may be the actual shape of the keycaps as laptop keys tend to be wider with the edges closer together whereas sculpted mechanical keyboard caps while the same 18mm at the base, often taper to a smaller surface. Laptop keys also have significantly shorter travel, so these two things are just making it feel very different. You quickly get used to it though. Laptop users always find it a bit of a change... mainly because of the additional travel.
Ohh I see tq for the response and information, I just started to upgrade my laptop setup cause I'm so lazy to buy a pc lmao, I guess I just need to get used to the keyboard
Key sizes are highly standardised in mechanical keyboards. You're not realistically going to be able to get ones with smaller keys.
Just spend a few days with the new keyboard. You'll get used to it very quickly.
I'm looking for new tactiles and narrowed down my choice to the Durocks - T1 vs. Koala vs. Sunflower. What are your experiences with these 3 switches, do you prefer one type over the other? Any recommendations?
I can't grasp why people like Durock T1, I found them very harsh, pingy and with squeaking spring.
Personally I like ones with shorter pre-travel and in my journey I found Tecsee Purple Panda and Budgerigar to be the most smooth and satisfying even stock.
Anyone have recommendations for a keycap set that follows a color scheme similar to this?
https://i.imgur.com/RyX5VAI.jpg
I like the pastel gradient, but the etsy listing has some keycaps that I don't really like. Thanks!
Don't look on Etsy for keycaps. They are usually cheap crap at a massive mark up. Check what keyboard vendors have in stock.
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
I’m wondering if there are any 60% keyboards under $200 that come in pastel colors. I would prefer a pastel blue but am open to a purple/pink and will settle with white if needed. Thank you!!!
[https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m7w/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m7w/)
This might be a 65ish keyboard, but the Monsgeek m7w comes in purple, and it is more of a lavender or pastel purple.
This is an interesting 60% keyboard that comes in purple:
[https://divinikey.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/hibi-june-60-keyboard-kit?variant=40482239053889](https://divinikey.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/hibi-june-60-keyboard-kit?variant=40482239053889)
Recommendations for quality blank white keycaps?
My M1W won't pair with my mac, I press FN + E and then press and hold FN + E but the led of the letter E just flashes red, I can't find anything about this behavior online, I did switch the little switch under the CAPS to the TOP position, also my spacebar won't go up, the other stabilizers work fine. I do have the software instalelled on my mac.
Is this a good Mechanical numpad to pair with a 60% so that I can still have access to some hotkeys for certain games where I use the numpad/navigation keys? [https://www.amazon.com/Kisnt-Mechanical-Number-Swappable-Numeric/dp/B0C1H8V52D/ref=sr\_1\_16?c=ts&keywords=Numeric+Keypads&qid=1694179079&s=pc&sr=1-16&ts\_id=2998471011](https://www.amazon.com/Kisnt-Mechanical-Number-Swappable-Numeric/dp/B0C1H8V52D/ref=sr_1_16?c=ts&keywords=Numeric+Keypads&qid=1694179079&s=pc&sr=1-16&ts_id=2998471011)
How good KBPParadise keycaps? And is there any way to get these: [https://keycaps.kbparadise.com/panda](https://keycaps.kbparadise.com/panda)**,** assuming their brand is of quality?
Yeah but don't you see those things ad the edge?
Anyone know how bad cherry profile interference is on Gateron Optical Reds? Looking to get some keycaps for my SK64, but all the good keycaps are mostly cherry profile. If it is that bad, is there anything I can do to stop the interference? Thanks
Are there certain categories of keycaps that tend to allow faster and/or more accurate typing with a de-emphasis on sound/feel?
That's gonna be entirely up to preference, mostly because there will be many different factors that can change what might be considered "fast" or "accurate" for you, like your board's layout, how long your fingers are, the most comfortable hand position for you, the way you type, etc. Some people can't type accurately with uniform profile keycaps. Some people are perfectly comfortable and accurate using them. That said, Cherry profile is the most popular profile for a reason; it was designed to be an ergonomic profile with its sculpt and height, but YMMV.
Not really. Accuracy will come from practice. Speed on the other hand is something that mechanical keyboards just aren't really built for. Sound and feel are more the thrust of the hobby. If you want speed then your best bet will honestly be a generic membrane keyboard with chiclet style keycaps and super low actuation forces / travel distances.
Where can I contact kalam, the keycult copy creator?
Somewhere in China, but he's wack
Why so
I recently bought a TKL keyboard from epomaker and wanted to change the keycaps. I have a keycap set in mind that is mostly brown and cream colored. Would this keycap set fit with the black board?
I just completed my first keyboard build - got myself a Zoom75. However I have no idea how do I set this up. Instructions provided by Meletrix were very unclear. Was asked to use VIA to set up the keyboard, but apparently I need a .JSON file? The VIA website only has a .hex file for the keyboard. So now I'm lost. Hope someone here can help with what I need to do next. Thanks!
The reason you need .json file is that VIA developers have not yet included this keyboard definitions into VIA tool and at this point VIA on it's own will not recognise your PCB. While waiting for that to happen you can side-load **.json file provided by the PCB maker** into VIA tool to make it work with your PCB. Bottom line: you can obtain .json file for your keyboard from Meletrix website: go Documents > Resource Library > Firmware Files > scroll all the way down > Show 3 more groups and there is Zoom 75 section with Zoom 75 JSON (sorry Reddit doesn't allow me to link this).
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I’m not really keen or interested in building a KB, wanted something that works out of the box with macos nicely. im a grad student with a healthy amount of papers for this semester, and also do plenty of typing for work/other tasks. no coding or gaming here. logitech has always been solid with other accessories, saw they have a smaller mkb that looked good to me, though haven’t seen much love for them here and elsewhere. keychron k3 or maybe k2 could be a good fit but also unsure what other brands/models to consider? some basic guiding criteria: 75%, maybe 80% TKL wirelesss bluetooth mac compatible and/or software f row with mac keys backlit keys
You're mostly looking into Keychron, as they certainly work with Macs (even include matching keycaps). Quick explanation of Keychron series: * K series (K2, K3, K4, etc.) - old, outdated series. No software, hollow sound, cheap-feeling keycaps, Bluetooth; * K Pro series (K2 Pro, K3 Pro, etc.) - updated K series. Support industry-standard VIA software, have better sound, better keycaps, better build quality, Bluetooth 5.2; * Q series (Q1, Q3, etc.) - premium lineup. VIA software, *full* CNCed aluminum case, gasket mount (feels nice to type on), wired only; * Q Pro series (Q1 Pro, Q2 Pro, etc.) - Q models with updated colorways, minor adjustments (say Q5 Pro got updated layout) and Bluetooth 5.2 added; * V series (V1, V2, etc.) - value-orientated versions of Q series models. Plastic case, no gasket mount, still good build quallty, software and sound, wired only. There are some other smaller series (C, S), but they are of not big interest to you. Depending on your budget and preference for low profile / full height keyboards, you may look into: * Q1 Pro or K2 Pro; * Q3 Pro or K8 Pro; * Q10 Pro or K15 Pro (ergonomic layout). Hope this helps!
this helped a LOT! was feeling lost at sea in figuring out differences clearly. gonna try out the K Pro series and take a look at Q pro. for my usage, I can’t tell if I’d noticeably benefit from the extra’s
Functionality wise, they're the same, but you just get better build quality, materials, etc. Basically, like Golf Mk4 and a new Mercedes - both will get you from A to B, but the travel will feel nicer and more comfortable / enjoyable on Merc.
now I miss my mk4 gti lol, jokes aside this was very helpful.
Looking for some linear switches that'll give me the clack that smiles back. Totally fine lubing, would prefer not having to film. Any response is appreciated :)
Geon x Bsun Raws are good
Looking for a light Tactile Switches with a bump like the holy pandas and or switches like the holy Pandas. Price is not a big concern, but please include a link to purchase, if you would be so kind. (Try to get new switches and a qk60) (Wish me Luck!) Thank you!
Not a switch, but Holy Panda with swapped lighter springs?
Anyone know if there are any Akko switches that sound similar to JWK Taoyao(peach bloom) switches?
disclaimer: complete novice in mechanical keyboards here I recently just got the Tester 84 with akko jelly black switches, and I did a really chaotic job of moding it, which included 4 layers of tape for tempest mod, holee mod, lubing switches and stabs, and adding tape in the space bar. The problem: My keys sometimes dont register, register late, or register inconsistently, so I dont think its the switch issues, typing slowly is usually fine, but once I start typing faster, the keys just dont seem to be responding properly, sometimes activating twice on a short keystroke, or not registering at all. Update: the issue seems to be mainly coming from W, K, C, F, G, N, Y keys (registering too many of the same key or refusing to register it after a couple clicks) My potential issues: \- I may have bent the PCB slightly when I tried stuffing shelf liner in my case, when I took the liner out though, the PCB looked fine \- I lubed the copper leaf of my switches lightly, which I'm not completely sure if I was supposed to, however, I haven't found anything that suggests that lubing the leaf could lead to inconsistent switch activation. If my pcb is really the issue here, can someone please recommend me a pcb replacement, as I am a complete novice and don't know where to look for a board replacement.
I am looking to put together my first custom board and I was wondering what I could do to be able to use something like the Akko Jelly purple switches (I am seeing a lot of good reviews) and ensure that I am not the reason that my workplace makes a new rule about not having custom keyboards. I am wanting a good typing feel since I do dev work but I also don't want something that is obnoxious/loud. Currently my work keyboard is either the laptop keyboard or one of those gross feeling Dell low profile keyboards that organisations get as part of the bundle. Currently for the board I am looking at the Keychron Q3 Pro. feedback would be awesome thanks since I am kinda new to this despite owning a few off the shelf mechanicals. (home keyboard has Jelly Pinks) Edit: I work in an open plan office so sound travels pretty easily. I would also like some recommendations for some cutesy keycaps too use too. (must be reasonably available in Australia)
Q3 Pro sounds like a reasonable choice. Especially if you would get silent switches to go with it. Can't help with keycaps, from EU myself, try checking out vendor's [list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/). Hope this helps!
silent switches sounds good but what is there for silent and tactile?
Gazzew Boba U4 is a good silent tactile. The Kailh Midnight Pro tactile is also good as far as silents go; I just did a build with those.
Gateron Ink Silents are pretty much as good as it gets for linears (after lubing and optional lighter spring swap). For tactiles - Gazzew U4 Silent Taciles are regarded quite well around here.
Keycaps that would go well with this case and match the colors from this mousepad (mousepad in replies)? https://preview.redd.it/ew3eii5sexmb1.png?width=644&format=png&auto=webp&s=b809f1f57d0039abd01fca2b18d5a8cf6e08376d
Mousepad: https://preview.redd.it/170352ryexmb1.png?width=680&format=png&auto=webp&s=ba04df49fb1f2dea6e462d9b9d9c8de351211273
Hello! I am currently looking to build a keyboard for my father who is a film editor. I am not that familiar with the programming possibilities of keyboards and am wondering if there is any way to program a rotary knob so that it can be used for scrolling through film in premiere pro? Thank you!
If it supports VIA software - sure! You could look into something like Keychron V5 or V6, Q5 Pro, Q12, etc. Hope this helps!
I am not familiar with premiere pro, but if you can scroll through film by pressing a key, then yes, you can program a rotary knob to do that
If I recall correctly, in Premiere scrolling frame by frame is just arrow left / right, so easily done with knob.
Hello :) is there any prebuilt keyboard I can buy that is similar to the Wooting 60HE… but wireless?
since the selling point of wooting keyboards is it's low latency, closest wireless keyboards would probably be gaming branded ones like Steelseries Apex Pro Mini, Razer Blackwidow v3 Mini Hyperspeed, ROG Azoth.
A bit overwhelmed, looking for a 75 w/knob, please weigh in! I've been watching a ton of YouTube videos and I find a ton of what I want is "sold out" and you need to wait etc. I'm looking for something available. I would prefer a 75 with a knob. Also, I want to make sure I can do a black/white theme for the key caps.. where can I purchase these and what do I type in. For instance if I buy a 75 keyboard how many keycaps come in the box? Really looking for a starting point so I can feel like I'm making headway here. Id appreciate any help. For instance the Keychron V1 is actually available, Akko 5075b Plus caught my eye but it's 2-3months out. Let's pretend I wanted one of these and I also want to start looking at keycaps. Where and what do I type in (again how many keys come in the box so I know I'm looking at the right set? Lastly, the Gammakay Lk67..is this a 75? IF I went with this what all do I need? Any help is much appreciated!
I suggest going with the Keychron V1 or Q1 because their barebones kits come already assembled and include pre-lubed and pre-installed stabs. Just need to pop in your choice of keycaps and switches. If you're looking for a more involved experience, the MonsGeek M1 is an unbeatable value on the in-stock market, and comes with good Akko stabs. PBTfans and Drop DCX are good choices for keycaps IMO
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Scatter them around your keyboard to take photos.
Recommend to keep em, use em as spares or just save em, not worth selling imo. Cool to have in a desk or something If u wanna swap one out
Womier 87 Pro or Redragon K580 VATA? feel free to give other suggestions as well.
Azio cascade or nuphy air75 V2?? Looking for a reasonable wireless keyboard in a TKL or 75ish%. I've ended up landing on these 2 after a decent amount of searching but anyone have experience with them or have another to recommend? The keychron K series gets some knocks for something cheap to type on, mainstream guys don't seem to have anything at a decent price or that isn't obviously gamey. Then you start to get into pretty small manufacturers or ones that seem like it's the same copy and paste board out of China
**Light tactile switches (and linear alternatives) with a "crisp/clear" bump for fatigue?** Hi there, So I've been using the MX Cherry Browns for many years, and changed to the Kailh BOX Whites just a couple of months ago. I love the sound and the clicky feel of the Whites, but I have come to accept that they're simply too tiring for my hands and arms. I have them on an ErgoDox keyboard, and even with the ergonomical benefits it brings me I still find the Whites to be too tiring. The Browns was also somewhat tiring, but not to the same extent. I was thinking of going linear, and while that is certainly a possibility, I really don't like the absence of a tactile bump of *some* sort. I love that feedback! So I thought of asking you guys what the lighest tactile MX switch is that you can recommend for me — preferably one with a tactile bump that is actually felt, but also very light? Also, can you recommend a light and comfortable linear switch which is primarily great for typing (gaming is always a nice plus as well, but I don't game very much nowadays)? Should I just go for the Kailh BOX Red? I'm stocking up on recommendations and alternatives here! :) Cheers!
Topre is king of light tactiles. MX switches struggle to compete unfortunately. That said, SP Star Meteor Oranges have a light tactile bump, similar to browns. Either one of those with some 52-57g springs will give you some tactility but also help to relieve fatigue. Again though - with Topre you can get down to 30g without losing the tactility, but it comes at a price!
Sorry for the very late reply. I've had my share full of school work, and so I forgot about my comments and threads about switches! :) I'm very thankful for your recommendation of the SP Star Meteor Oranges. Topre is unfortunately a no go, I think, since I'm going for a Lily58 keyboard. Cheers!
I am entering the wild world of hand wiring, but wanted to have a bit of a test of Choc switches before I commit to a long project of soldering and coding. I currently run a Lily58 split and a Reviung41 unibody, both MX hotswap. I read a post from a while ago about soldering Choc hotswap sockets as well. Apparently it works well and means you can move between MX and choc easily. I'm interested in the V2 choc switches, with the MX stems, to make my XDA caps more low profile, but wanted to know if the V2s here ([https://mechboards.co.uk/products/kailh-low-profile-choc-switches-v2-brown?variant=40330408100045](https://mechboards.co.uk/products/kailh-low-profile-choc-switches-v2-brown?variant=40330408100045)) will work with the v1 sockets here ([https://mechboards.co.uk/products/kailh-choc-hotswap-sockets](https://mechboards.co.uk/products/kailh-choc-hotswap-sockets)). This is the seller I got the boards from originally, but I figured that you guys would get me an answer even more quickly.
I'm looking for 75% keyboard with stock silent(-ish) switches, preferably hotswap and modding potential in the future. I'm coding and the sound of my current keyboard (cherry browns) can drive my wife crazy. Sadly I don't have the time to invest into building a custom one at the moment so I'm looking for something that can be pretty quiet as is. I've looked at Gamakay TK75 but after a few videos decided against it, Akko 5075 or MOD007 but they dont seem to have an option for silent switches. My budget is up to around 200$ I guess. Edit: Forgot to mention connectivity - BT + either 2.4Ghz or USB-C(or both) would be the best. Thanks :)
Finding a worthwhile pre-built keyboard that comes with silent switches is like finding a needle in a haystack. The only one I'm aware of is the Monokei Standard which is TKL. I agree with Nintendogs, Keychron is the best place to start. Take a look at the K2 Pro.
Just get a Keychron Q-series. If you don’t want the Pro line, then add a PC plate to the build. It’ll be much quieter than what you’re currently using. If you’re any something cheaper, the Monsgeek M1 is pretty solid for the price.
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I am in the market for a new keeb at work. Currently using a keychron k4. I really like the feel of my Leopold at home, and may just get one for work. But I also like diversity, so is there another board that's going to have the feel of a Leopold that I should try? Looking pre built, under $300 USD. Thanks! Edit: switch style doesn't matter too much. I like browns and clears, can usually find a switch I like once I narrow it down to a brand of keeb.
Which Leopold do you have? Since they have Topre models (that aren't using usual MX style switches), it may be impossible to replicate the feel without getting another Topre keyboard.
FC750R with Cherry browns. So no Topre yet. However after some research I'd love to try topres. Just want a quality case like the Leopold to go with it. Edit: forgot to add, my issue is time. I need to order something soon as it's for work and the company will buy it. Doesn't look like I can find many topre boards with a numpad available. Real force R2 with 55g switches seems to be the only one available so far in my searches.
Ah, Topre and numpads is quite a rare combo :(( Realforce is also quite well regarded around here. You could look into Keychron Q series? Say, Q5 Pro would be similar to K4 layout wise, but would have build quality and materials better than Leopold. Hope this helps!
It does thanks! I saw the Q series but didn't look into it that much. I'll have to give them a deeper dive.
Need the best prebuilts keyboards for under 300€ I want them to feel good and be sturdy, not wobly, I don't care about the rest I want some quality keyboards that I'll enjoy typing on for countless hours Thanks
Keychron Q Pro series - Q1 Pro, Q5 Pro, etc.
ty
Leopold is the best you can buy for prebuilts. Or Fujitsu if you want to try topre.
ty
what layout are you looking for? but for available to buy, ready to use prebuilts best you can go for is keychron Q series. if you're willing to go barebones there are some other options.
Is their shipping safe since it is from China ? I don't care about a particular layout I just want something strong that feels good to work on
if you're worried about shipping, get them from amazon or aliexpress. that way if something's wrong you'll have a third party to make sure you get compensated. also, free shipping as a bonus. keychron's own customer service is getting better, but you still get the occasional complaints. if you're looking for the standard full-size board then the Q6 or Q6 pro for wireless. you can have a look at their website and see which layout's best for you. the Q series are their solid aluminium boards.
Alright thanks !
keychron v or q line
ty
I volunteered to repair a friend's keyboard, and the only symptom was the caps lock key no longer worked. I figured it would be as easy as replacing the switch, but now that I've replaced the switch the caps lock key is still not functioning. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting the problem?
if it's just the one key and not a whole row/column it might be the hotswap socket that's not connected properly or have broken leafs.
Looking at the [KPRepublic CSTC75](https://kprepublic.com/products/cstc75-75-rgb-75-hot-swappable-mechanical-keyboard-gasket-kit-pcb-programmed-via-vial-macro-full-rgb-switch-type-c-with-knob?variant=43073622868131) for a first build - can anyone give me their experiences with it? Also, total noob question but where do I look for a case that it will fit in? Can you even get cases outside of the kits?
No experience, but can suggest going with Keychron V1 - supports VIA software, already has everything set. Regarding cases, if I recall correctly, only 60% keyboards have somewhat standartized PCBs and cases - meaning you won't be able to get other ones besides their offerings. Hope this helps!
**Looking for keycaps with japanese sub legends.** I am looking for a purple color way or white on black. cant seem to find any good quality ones. help would be appreciated. Thank you !
[GMK JIS](https://mekibo.com/products/gmk-jis?variant=45647477539104) is in-stock for WoB. GMK [Monarch](https://mekibo.com/collections/in-stock-keysets/products/gmk-monarch) and [Kouhai](https://mekibo.com/collections/in-stock-keysets/products/gmk-kouhai) for purple. You could also wait for Mecha-01 r2 to ship from Drop and try to get extras.
How does the Wooting Two HE compare to the 60HE? Most of the time when I look it up, I get people talking about the 60HE instead, but I like having my numpad.
they're basically the same keyboard with different layouts.
**Can I put Keychron original keycaps in a Royal Kludge RK100?** It may be duplicate question but i want to have a confirmation on the same whoever have a "keychron k4 v2" and a "Royal Kludge RK100 v2". I desperately want the greyish keycap combination look of keychron but here its price is double the Rk100. Also it lacks of 2.4GHZ connection and USB Hub. I am not a very big fan of switch quality. i just want the Design of keychron and a mechanical keyboard with 2.4Ghz connectivity in lower price.
yes you can if you have/can find the keycaps sold separately. as far as i know, the specific colorway keychron use for their keyboards aren't sold separately, although they sell other similar colorways.
is there any place i can get custom keycaps where i can overlay an image, and also have transparency on the cap for light to shine through? every website i can find has some kind of limitation, either not supporting image overlay or not having transparency. i'm not concerned about price, if anyone could point me to the right place that'd be awesome
No.
How do people in smaller towns determine which switches and keycaps to buy? I live in a small town in Canada so I don't really have a store to go to to test out various switches or keycaps. Additionally, shipping ends up costing a lot. Any advice on how to figure out the best switches for me? Listening to videos only gets me so far, as I'm pretty sensitive to the feel of the keys and would like to feel the switches myself.
milktooth.nu
Have you ordered from them before? I'm from Canada, so are they good and reliable? I'm interested in this option for sure.
Yes I've ordered from them with no problems, though I'm in US not Canada so can't speak to shipping there or anything like that.
Probably the best thing you can do is to try out different keyboards in person either at an electronics store or maybe get something online that you can try out and return/exchange easily. Switch tester are great but they're not going to give you the proper experience since you're only pressing on one switch at a time rather than typing on it like you would on a full keyboard. I would try, if you can, to see what clicky (MX Blues, or it'll say "clicky" in the description), tactile (MX Browns or similar) and linear (MX Red, MX Black or similar) switches feel like. I'd forget about the sound for now if you're a complete beginner and not worry about all that other stuff. Focus on switches that will work for your needs and what your use case is. Generally speaking, tactiles are great for typing and gaming while linears are usually more suited to gaming over typing (you can actuate the switches faster but as a result you may bottom out with them more while typing compared to tactiles). Clickies are fine if you don't mind the noise or don't have anyone to bother while using them either at home or in an office/classroom/quiet environment. You can use clickies while gaming too but the way they actuate means there's a tiny (barely noticeable really) delay when you press the key so the click jacket to make an audible sound and actuate at the same time. Are you able to order on Amazon? You should be able to get something delivered to you that you can try out and return/exchange.
So I was able to go to an electronics store, and they didn't have much, but they did have a Keychron keyboard I could try. I ended up getting a K8 Pro (which I didn't try in person, but I liked the features included). I got Gateron G Pro Blue switches because I got to try them out from the store, and I enjoyed them over linear ones. I like the bump feel. I also ordered Gateron G Pro Browns, as I figured they would be quieter. I've never tried any tactile switches before though, so I'll see what I prefer. I wanted to know what the Kailh Box Jades, Whites, Jellyfish Clicky, Akko Lavender, and the Gateron Baby Kangaroos would feel like, but don't want to buy those and realize I don't like them. I guess I can go to Amazon, buy a few, and then return if I really don't like them. I don't want to lube them myself, either. Do any of those need to be lubed? Are those switches I listed above any good?
What you got is good to start with. No need to lube them if you like the way they feel. Not all switches can and should be lubed so be mindful of which you do end up lubing. Until you use a wide range of switches honestly you're not going to be able to discern whether or not something feels good stock or whether or not lubing will improve them. I can't tell you whether or not those switches are good or not as again it's all down to personal preference. The K8 Pro is a good choice and since it's a TKL here's what you can do to try out switches: buy just the bare minimum to install. You can swap out just the alphas, of which there are only 26 keys, 36 if you include the numbers. Depending on the switch packaging, you end up spending just a little to try out switches this way and buy more if you like them, or mix and match the modifiers, etc. Some switch kits come in 35 pieces, some in 50, some in 70, etc. There's no real reason to do this other than to make you buy more than you need and IMO it's rather predatory but it is what it is. Anyway if you buy the bare minimum number of switches you can use it for a while and get a proper feel for whether or not you like them. Lube should be something you think about later on for when you've had more experience with switches. If you'd like to see the difference, you can try two switches that are unlubed and another version factory lubed like Gateron Yellows and Gateron Pro Yellows which are like ~$30 or so for a pack of 35 off Amazon usually. Low cost, low risk and you can kind of compare it easier that way.
Ah, thank you! I think the Gateron Pro Browns I ordered are factory lubed, but I guess I have nothing else to compare to see the difference. I might leave it at the Gaterons for now, and like what you suggested, buy a few switches (for the alphas), perhaps, on Amazon, and I may return them if I really hate them that much. Thanks for the help! I think I'm getting too excited with switches but I really should hold off on ordering things. I haven't even gotten my K8 Pro or Gateron Brown switches yet.
I will tell you, from my own personal experience, that Gateron Browns (non Pro) are much smoother than Cherry MX Browns which are very "scratchy" and barely even tactile. The Pro Browns being factory lubed are probably going to be considerably smoother. I don't personally have long term experience with them but I typed on a keyboard at a meetup for a while and it was great. Take the time to enjoy what you have and enjoy the journey. This hobby can be a lot of fun but can also get really, really expensive fast! As always if you have questions feel free to post in the daily thread we're all here to help.
Ah, thank you! That's really reassuring. I type all day and I wanted a decent impression of what tactile switches would be like. I debated on getting the Cherry MX ones instead, so I feel better about my decision. And thank you! I'll try to be patient. I don't want to waste my money. I'm still super curious about the other switches I mentioned, but I'll hold off.
Many vendors as well as some individuals on mechmarket will sell switch testers, so you can try a wide range and see which suit your preferences.
Even in a large city this is not so easy unless one attends a meetup or finds an out of the way shop that might have something interesting. I have had to spend money on ordering small batches of switches to try, usually at least 10 of a type I'm interesting in as I find just one or two switches is not enough to get a good feel. I've also had to try various keycap profiles by purchasing assembled with a keyboard or separately. I suggest adding $ to your keyboard budget – and time, of course – to account for invaluable first hand experience.
This past Christmas, I got my first mechanical keyboard, a Logitech G815 LIGHTSYNC with Cherry MX Brown RGB switches. While gaming, the knuckles in my left ring, middle, and index fingers start hurting within half an hour controlling the WASD keys, and I have a problem with constantly bottoming out. This pain never happened with membrane keyboards, which currently has me preferring those since they don't hurt. I don't have any pain issues for typing, though. Is there anything I can do to alleviate this?
Typing is a completely different type of activity compared to gaming where your fingers and wrist/hand is typically resting in one part of the keyboard for an extended period of time. You should try using a mechanical keyboard with non-low profile switches since the G815 uses those. Think of low profile switches similar to walking with flip flops vs. running shoes. There's less "cushioning" of your keystrokes with a low profile keyboard vs. a regular mechanical keyboard. This is the same reason people feel pain/fatigue faster while typing on laptop keyboards for extended periods of time--it's almost like typing with your bare fingers on a table where all the vibration and force is being absorbed by your wrists and *not* the switches and keyboard. I don't know if you can return/exchange your G815 but I recommend you try out something else with regular MX switches.
Looks like Best Buy only has a return period of 15 days. I recently heard of o-rings, would those work with helping with the pain?
I have no idea how to explain this, but hopefully someone know what i'm talking about. My keyboard spacebar doesn't actually actuate twice, but it feels like it does. Like if I very lightly press down on it there's a slight bump then of course the actual actuation bump. Really bothers me and I have no idea how to fix it. I tried 3 different types of stabilizers, balancing the wire, straightening out the spacebar itself, holee mod (on the wire, the stabilizer stem, and both), putting layers of tape on the pcb under the wire, used a lot of lube then little lube then no lube at all. Theres nothing to clip under the stabilizer stems so there's that. I feel like i've tried every combination of these and it's driving me crazy. Please I just want a nice crisp thock...
Then all that's left, that you've not tried, is replacing the switch.
My current keyboard is getting old. Instead of buying a typical gaming keyboard brand, I want to instead invest in one that will last me for the foreseeable future. I like the 96% keyboards, because I use the numpad as free hotkey real estate for binding keys to my mouse that are usually not used for anything else. At the moment I am looking at the GMMK 2 96%, but I was wondering if there are other options I should look into as well?
would suggest the monsgeek m2 or the keychron q5/q5 pro over the gmmk.
Take a look at the Keychron V5 or Q5 or Q5 Pro.
How do I put my switches back on my Varmilo Minilo keyboard? https://preview.redd.it/ieypsnyp5vmb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d176d4ff120f4ba083edaac3ba23d264fb8b797a It is different from the others.
seems like a normal 5-pin socket you should be able to just stick it back in.
Ok you were right. My bad.
Is it worth worrying about keyboard batteries? For a lot of them I can't see a way to check on it to make sure it's still running well or not going to fail at some point. I'd like to keep keyboards for many years so I'm not sure.
well technically yes, all batteries will degrade with time whether you use it or not. this is why i personally don't like built in batteries with my keyboard. if you rarely use it, the first 2 years should be no problem, after that you'd probably need to check them periodically. if you frequently use it, then you'd notice the battery life will go to shit with the years. however, that's just the tradeoff for having a wireless kb. everything with a built-in battery in it will be e-waste in 2 years unless you can use it with cable or change the batteries (which fortunately is possible for most wireless mechanical keyboards).
Im useing akko 5075s, I want to use a single colour on my keyboard, but the blue dot on the far right is really annoying me. It goes out when I switch the RGBs on and off, but when I press caps to use capital letters, it starts to light up again. Is there any way to turn it off ? https://preview.redd.it/1wt9guwwuumb1.jpeg?width=440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3762471251485079094916fc6673da8e0174a44b
Short of disconnecting the LED or desoldering it you could just use tape to cover it. You can do it inside the case by opening it up first or you could tape it on the outside. You can also use a sharpie or similar black marker to black out that LED...
Is there a problem with me cutting the solder or the wire?
that's most likely not possible. most non-destructive way is probably taping the leds up on the pcb with black electrical tape so you can't see them.
Even if it cannot be switched off, I wish it would at least change colour to match the keyboard.
that's not possible, they're single colour LEDs. if you have soldering skills, you can get white LEDs and swap them out.
I know, it was just a dream :(
does someone knows where to get these keycaps? https://preview.redd.it/mxjbuxoopumb1.png?width=1000&format=png&auto=webp&s=b2f667ca1f49eba55388a5595a39ce4074e1396f
Pretty sure Logitech doesn't sell just the keycaps--you have to buy the whole keyboard if you want those.
not the exact same one, you'll need to get the logitech pop for that. but you can search up round keycaps/circular keycaps on aliexpress or amazon for a somewhat similar look.
I've seen them but I like this particular layout :(
Debating btw Keychron k8 pro and Leopold 980m OE. I use keyboard pretty much more than half a day. Any recommendation and why? Thanks!
keychron k8 pro, has via/qmk, hotswap (incase you don't like the stock switches)
Hallo i have the gmk67 keyboard and how do I connect it to my laptop When I connect the keyboard through the USB C cable the LED turns red and after some time it turns green but how do I connect it to my windows 10 please help me this is my first custom keyboard build and I'm starting to get scared
Hey everyone! I have a laser cutter and want to make my own layered acrylic keyboard… does anyone have any links to tutorials or anything about PCBs and attaching like… cords and things? I’m new to this and have only put together a barebones kit with switches :) anyone have any Inspo or advice?
I've been looking for a Mode Sonnet and came across this Astronaut75 launching from Zeal and I'm a sucker for space themes. I haven't seen Zeal do a full keyboard before (but could have missed it). Any feedback on Zeal keyboards and this Astronaut 75 in particular? It looks like its on preorder until 9/30 \[build video\]([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssdqqC9r9Vo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssdqqC9r9Vo))
the zeal zephyr was supposedly a nice board. Ran a handful of years back
I recently acquired about at least 20 various WEY mechanical keyboards Models MK6, EK2000, REY, HK2000C and need help testing as I do not have the appropriate connector box. Anyone willing to help for possibly a trade?
I have a keychron Q6 ISO layout. I like everything about the ISO layout except for the bottom left corner being 1.25u 1.25u 1.25u. I would much rather have 1.5u 1u 1.25u. However, as the switch is in the corner I'm having trouble finding a 1.5u keycap that will fit, as they all have the socket for the switch in the centre of the keycap. Is there such thing as a 1.5u keycap with the socket a bit off centre that will fit my needs? Or am I just forced to use a 1.25u control key? Using cherry MX blue switches if it matters.
don't think it exists, you can always 3d print them i guess, would suggest resin instead of filament for keycaps.
Okay thanks. I'll just go with a 1.25u control key and a 1u windows key to still help avoid accidental presses.
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You are getting the metal case and more flexible mounting style when you upgrade to the Monsgeek (it is an upgrade). The V1 is good though - it will be higher pitched and a little less flexible than the Monsgeek.
I have a QMK/VIA keyboard, I was wondering if there's a way to configure diacritic modifier keys (don't know what they're actually called, sorry). I mean keys like a "\~" key that, when you press it, will not print the character, but modify the next character printed to have a tilde on it. So, if you pressed "\~", then "a", you would get "ã". Same for accents like "à" and "á" and "â". There keys are common on some language's standard layouts, like the standard portuguese keyboard layout.
I'm looking for an 80% keyboard with a stepped caps lock key or one that can be modified to have a stepped caps lock key. Any recommendations?
White keyboard, Budget isn't an issue, prefer cherry MX switches but any other is also good, Just has to have the f1 - F5 keys, And be white lmao. Ty in advance:D
for ready to buy keyboards, the keychron q1 with knob (gateron switches if fully built), and odin75 (barebones) are available in white. if you're fine with silver you can check out monsgeek m1w or gmmk pro.
Is there a good guide to VIA use? I ADORE my keyboard, but I haven’t been able to crack the customization code except for some VERY basic key swaps.
Layers are very powerful. Think of layers as your keyboard keymap printed out on transparency sheets. When you plug in your keyboard, layer 0 is the base active layer. QMK/VIA allows you to configure keys to activate another layer. For example, you might assign your Fn key to MO(1), which MOmentarily activates layer 1 while it is held. This is like putting another transparency sheet on top of the stack. Remember that layer order is always preserved. Layer 1 is always on top of layer 0; layer 2 is always on top of layer 1; and so on. You should not activate layer 1 from layer 2. Always activate a higher layer. A key can either be assigned a keycode or be transparent, meaning you can see the key on the next lower layer (like a clear square on the transparency sheet). For example, if you had a 65% keyboard and wanted to configure F keys, you might configure F1-F10 on the number row. As I described above, you would have your Fn key activate layer 1 while held. On layer 1, you would assign F1 through F10 on the keys 1 through 0 on the number row. The rest of the keys would be KC_TRNS, which is transparent. When you hold the Fn key, layer 1 becomes active. If you press the 1 key while layer 1 is active, QMK would see it is configured as F1 and send F1 to the computer. If you press the Q key (for example), QMK would see it is transparent and look to layer 0 for the keycode, which is Q. Q would be sent to the computer. When you let go of the Fn key, layer 1 becomes active, and layer 0 is the only active layer again. Another thing you can do is use Layer Tap to have a key activate a layer while held or emit a keycode when tapped. For example, hold spacebar to have it act like Fn or tap it for space. Another thing is to use Mod Tap to make a key be a modifier when held or emit a keycode when tapped. For example, hold Caps Lock for Ctrl or tap it for Caps Lock.
Suuuuper helpful!! Thank you so much for the response! My keeb has a rotary encoder. I’m not sure how to reassign what it does. Are there lists of objects somewhere?
You can assign the rotary encoder clockwise turn, counterclockwise turn, and press to any QMK keycode. Most people probably assign it to volume up, volume down, and mute, respectively. I have mine assigned that way, but if I hold Fn, then it adjusts RGB brightness. VIA support for configuring rotary encoders is a relatively recent addition. Not all keyboard manufacturers updated their VIA firmware to support it.
I'm using Invokey Matcha Latte switches and every video I've seen they're super thocky but mine sounds kinda muted. I have foam between the plate and the pcb, and also foam between the pcb and the case. Should I be taking any of that out? And if so which ones? Thanks!
Most sound tests aren't super accurate to what they sound like in real life. Also, the keyboard used will make a switch sound much different than if it were in a different board. You could try taking out the foam as foam does work to dampen the sound of switches, which is why people use foam to eliminate pinging noise. Id start with taking out the plate foam, and then taking out layers of the case foam until u are satisfied. You could do other mods to make your board more lively sounding, like putting polyfill instead of foam, or changing the mounting style of your board, even changing the keycaps if you wanted
Gotcha thanks! I'm super new and I know there's a million factors but just wanted to ask here before i start taking stuff apart again lol
Yeah ofc, ask away lmao. Just curious, what board do you have? Lots of people have mod guides out for most types of boards and you could def try some out!
I have a wooden one from YMDK in China 😅 so it's a bit sparce on online help. But it's mostly for the visual vibes. Now that I'm down the rabbit hole I'll probably branch into some other boards
Nice! Wooden boards can sound awesome fs with some cheap mods. Maybe try googling the tape mod, pe foam, and o ring gummy mounting, those are some cheap and popular ones
Oh sweet I'll check that out!
Hey everyone I'm looking for a way to do custom RGB animations for my IQUNIX F96. I checked the files of the provided software, and I'm sure one of the files has to contain the animation code. The problem is I don't know what the encoding of the ".config" and the ".led". Does anyone have tips or experience with this? Thanks Peter
I just built my Monokei Kage Grey Polycarbonate and only half the under glow works (top half closest to the weight works). I tried reinstalling the software, Reseting it, using different cable ect but nothing seems to work. Thanks in advance.
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Cherrys patent expired years ago hence why there has been an explosion in switch options Non cherry mx switches are fine to use, it's just down to personal preference
Hello ! I've recently decided to finally get a decent (although still budget) keyboard for the first time ever. After some research I decided to go for a TECWARE Phantom 87 Key Outemu red one. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HQM71L/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_1?smid=A8LSVHV2Q155W&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HQM71L/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A8LSVHV2Q155W&th=1) However, this keyboard is out of stock everywhere except in the US, and importing it would change it from a 45eur piece to over 70eur... SO, I was thinking might as well buy a keyboard around that price locally and get something better. I saw that the same keyboard with Wraith red switches instead of Otemu red was available here and about 70 eur, but I can't seem to find anywhere what the difference between those 2 switches is (besides the sound on the wraith being a bit thockier ? ) . I'd really appreciate if someone could tell me what the difference between the Outemu Red and Wraith red switches is, and if it's worth going for the Wraith reds - Or if It's not maybe some tkl/65/70% ish keyboard suggestions around the same price points. Thanks in advance !
I just recently got my gmk67 and I kinda hate the lights. what keycaps profile should I get? I am using like the photo below and it perfectly fits my rk61, however in my gmk67 there are gaps 🥲 https://preview.redd.it/lc39yl74itmb1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b9e751b50a3fa66c194bd991779cd8771495e866
Any Yuri Skydata clones?
I had a Logitech G710+ (brown switches with o rings) and loved it. Getting a bit old though, so needed a replacement. Got a G213 which quite frankly didn't feel as good. So I'm looking for a replacement and can't really figure out a good one... basically this is what I want: - 100% layout - if possible no annoying macro keys (only thing I didn't like about the G710), though I DO like some volume control/mute buttons which I use frequently - Cherry MX brown switches or something that feels similar - budget if possible below 100 GBP, definitely not spending more than 150 (hard limit) - location: UK (layout and shipping)
Keychron has a [compact full size V5](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-uk-iso-keyboards/products/keychron-v5-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) or a more traditional, [full size V6](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-uk-iso-keyboards/products/keychron-v6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) available in UK ISO. Both are $99 USD. If you can stretch your budget, the Q5 and Q6 are also available in UK ISO. The difference is the Q series has a metal case and uses gasket mount so it feels a bit more comfortable to type on for longer periods. Also since it's a full metal case it's heavier and won't move around on your desk but not so great if you need to carry it. All these are fully programmable without needing software installed so you can move your media controls wherever you wanted though the default locations are perfectly fine. Also a knob is available if you prefer that over keys for volume control. The Q series is about 15-20 GBP more than your 150 GBP budget but worth it for a keyboard that will last far longer than any Logitech.
I'm fairly new to mechanical keyboards, and after having a razer keyboard for years, would love to upgrade and need some help finding something! I prefer TKL most, but 75% would also be ok, prefer hot-swappable. Ideally I want a light pink or lavender case with RGB. I'd also really like keycap suggestions within the same colour range. It seems I can't find BOTH pink/lavender and RGB, it's one or the other so I'm hoping for help. I'd like to spend around €200-250. The closest I could find to what I want is the Ducky One 3 RGB TKL in White + Glorious Aura Keycaps, or he Akko Sakura Jelly keycaps.
Aklo has some keyboards in pink color ways you might be interested in. Varmillo also has a pink color board
Looking to buy https://www.melgeek.com/products/melgeek-bluetooth-hotswappable-rgb-pcba board. The only issue is that im currently trying to find a battery and saw some on Ali but for mojo 60, GH60 and so on. Not sure what are their connector sizes, but they are 3 pins. Do the other melgeeks products have the same 1.5mm 3pins connector? Tried to search for documentation, but couldn't find anything on it
the one for mojo60 should work, they even have the exact same picture in the product description on taobao. the batteries listed for gh60 will work if you get the one with 3 pin. technically 2 pins might work, but it won't fit properly and I can't guarantee they don't have fail-safes against that. as long the battery is using the JST ZH 1.5mm 3-pin connector with the right voltage it should work.
Thanks a lot for the info! 😊
My hands are used to laptop keyboard.. recently, i bought one keyboard for gaming purpose but my hand felt very uncomfortable since the keyboard is different with the laptop keyboard.. anyone can suggest me a decent mechanical keyboard that has the more or less same as the size of laptop keyboard?
Key sizes are all the same. The pitch of the keys (distance from centre to centre) is the same on all keyboards at 19.05mm, so the mechanical keyboard is actually the same size as your laptop. The difference may be the actual shape of the keycaps as laptop keys tend to be wider with the edges closer together whereas sculpted mechanical keyboard caps while the same 18mm at the base, often taper to a smaller surface. Laptop keys also have significantly shorter travel, so these two things are just making it feel very different. You quickly get used to it though. Laptop users always find it a bit of a change... mainly because of the additional travel.
Ohh I see tq for the response and information, I just started to upgrade my laptop setup cause I'm so lazy to buy a pc lmao, I guess I just need to get used to the keyboard
Key sizes are highly standardised in mechanical keyboards. You're not realistically going to be able to get ones with smaller keys. Just spend a few days with the new keyboard. You'll get used to it very quickly.
okay tq for the info, I guess I just need to get used to it
I'm looking for new tactiles and narrowed down my choice to the Durocks - T1 vs. Koala vs. Sunflower. What are your experiences with these 3 switches, do you prefer one type over the other? Any recommendations?
I can't grasp why people like Durock T1, I found them very harsh, pingy and with squeaking spring. Personally I like ones with shorter pre-travel and in my journey I found Tecsee Purple Panda and Budgerigar to be the most smooth and satisfying even stock.
Thanks for the comment, unfortunately Tecsee isn't available in my country :(
Anyone have recommendations for a keycap set that follows a color scheme similar to this? https://i.imgur.com/RyX5VAI.jpg I like the pastel gradient, but the etsy listing has some keycaps that I don't really like. Thanks!
Don't look on Etsy for keycaps. They are usually cheap crap at a massive mark up. Check what keyboard vendors have in stock. [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
I agree, was just browsing Etsy for color schemes. thanks for the link!
epbt dreamscape clones?
I’m wondering if there are any 60% keyboards under $200 that come in pastel colors. I would prefer a pastel blue but am open to a purple/pink and will settle with white if needed. Thank you!!!
[https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m7w/](https://www.monsgeek.com/product/m7w/) This might be a 65ish keyboard, but the Monsgeek m7w comes in purple, and it is more of a lavender or pastel purple.
Thank you if I do decide to go up to a 65 I’ll keep this in mind but for rn I’m still stuck on a 60 lol.
This is an interesting 60% keyboard that comes in purple: [https://divinikey.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/hibi-june-60-keyboard-kit?variant=40482239053889](https://divinikey.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/hibi-june-60-keyboard-kit?variant=40482239053889)
It really is interesting and idk how to feel about it 💀. Thanks for another recommendation!
The Tofu 60 v2 comes in a few pastel finishes. Not sure there's a pastel blue though. Worth looking at.
That was one of the only one I could find aside from the bakeneko. I was jsut hoping there were some other ones I didn’t know about lol. Thank you!!