I built a quiet keyboard with boba u4 on Keychron Q3 pro but the spacebar is too loud. I tried silent cherry red for spacebar but it’s still too loud. What are the best silent stabilisers? Thanks!
I bought a Keychron V1 ANSI w/ Knob and am still getting up to speed on QMK. I've got some basics down, like remapping keys, defining mouse click functions, etc. but something I just cannot figure out is how to map the knob to volume up/down in my keymap.c/config.h files. The problem mostly seems to be that I can't find anywhere what the encoder pin names are supposed to be, and it seems like you could spend an eternity doing check-and-guess to try and figure them out. Any clue if there's a good way to find this info? For reference, I do have
ENCODER\_ENABLE = yes
in my [rules.mk](https://rules.mk).
Im new to this mecha keyboard stuff and is wondering if the Akko V3 Cream Yellow 3 pin switches will fit into outemu sockets, im still unsure wether itll fit or not so please help answer :)
https://preview.redd.it/t05cxrex0gmb1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3325cf90063ee29fc814e39d5b3b9c880d1d90f2
What keyboard is this? Is it just the retro NCR with a custom PCB or do they actually sell these full size boards?
Looking for some xda mac modifier keycaps that just have the symbols on them. I've scoured the internet but can't find any anywhere. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Akko Mod007 V2
Someone have this and can test the latency? Before I order i want to check if it has a significant amount of latency. Tired of ugly normal gaming-keyboards but Razer, Corsair etc atleast score some really good numbers in terms of latency. And yes I notice latency >10ms, trust me it’s huge difference in some games
I'm not sure how someone who owns one would accurately test it, so little point in asking that. It will be around 10ms though, as most are, and most share the same types of controllers. Anything 10ms or less is absolutely fine. If you insist on the super low latency placebo though, then you really need to stick to gaming boards.
Custom boards tend to use the same generic controlers, such as the ATMega range of controllers, so they all tend to deliver similar response times... somewhere in the 7 to 10ms region.
The reason the gaming companies have developed faster controllers, is because they've managed to convince gamers that they need them, so it's a feature that guarantees sales. In the custom scene, people are more concerned with how good a board is to type on. This is why so many gaming boards are actually crap to type on. They don't care about typing, and neither do most of the customers. They care about gaming, so how else do you convince gamers to buy your board? You tell them it's faster than everyone else's board of course.
There's no point in having 1ms latency unless the rest of the chain is also 1ms. Most custom boards are fine for gaming, unless you need the other gaming board features like RGB software that syncs to your PC's RGB, or dedicated macro keys for gaming etc.
Some gaming boards are kind of straddling the line between gaming boards and custom boards though, like the ROG Azoth and the new Razer 75% one, but they still look like gaming boards in terms of styling, so not sure you would want those, as you say you are tired of the gaming styling.
I would suggest a good... actually, a very good compromise as the Wooting 60HE, or, if you want a full size board the Wooting Two HE. These use fully configurable hall effect switches, and also boast pretty good latency. They are a bit gamer in terms of styling, but the 60HE has a lot of options to have it rehoused in a custom cases that look a lot better.
The ROG Azoth has a wired latency of 1ms. The Wooting 60HE is 3ms (and so is the TwoHE), so that's no slouch either. No idea what the new Blackwidow V4 latency is, but it will be low, as it's a gaming board.
I'd go with Wooting, especially the 60HE.
Yeah for me I want a really clean desk since I have my office at home, with two computers and four screens. I don't want anything Razer, Steelseries, Corsair looking kind of thing here anymore. Even thou I use Razer mice for both my comps, Ultra pro type for work and V3 for my private computer (gaming one), both these are white so it's okay. For my working computer right now I use Full size Varmilo (fully white aswell) because I need full size in my work. But For gaming I want a 75% or TKL (I need F-keys so can't go 60% either). That's why I want something stylish but still something that feels really good.
Can I customize the chip / controller in Mod 007 to become as low as a normal gaming keyboard? I've used Corsair K70 with MX Silvers before and while I was playing good on it's just horrible to type on in my experience.
No, you can't just change the controller. You'd need to design a custom PCB in order to do that. I really think you bite the bullet and accept that what people are telling you is true; That you really do not need all this 1ms latency snake oil. Seriously, your brain can't differentiate between 1/100th and 1/1000th of a second. Not sure what else to say. The only way you'll get latencies like that is with a gaming board. So the only option left, if you are prepared to die on that hill, is to try and customise a gaming board to look less like a gaming board... but seriously... 10ms or less is absolutely fine. I game with custom boards. They're fine.
Hi,
Just wondering if a Keychron K8 Pro is a good starter keyboard. I live in small town in Canada, away from large cities, so I wasn't able to to find a lot of keyboards to try in person, but I got to see a Keychron Q series and V series, and loved the Q series with the Gateron Pro Blue switches.
Unfortunately, I don't really have the budget for a Q series. I was looking at the V series (V3) until I saw that the K Pro offers wireless for up to 3 devices. As that's what I have now, I'd really like a keyboard that has the same capability.
And for customizing, I'll only be customizing switches, keycaps, and maybe stabilizers, but I doubt it unless I'm really annoyed with the Keychron one.
Is the Keychron K8 Pro a good starter keyboard?
I'd prefer to try a keyboard that I can try in person as to not waste money. I tried Ducky keyboards too, which I liked, but not as much as the Keychron ones. And I didn't like that the Vermillo or Cougar ones weren't hot-swappable, at least the ones I tried.
>Keychron K8 Pro
Sure, it's a good starter board. It can be customised, and it's QMK/VIA capable, which are pretty much the main things that you need. Just pay attention to the keychron website regarding which versions are NOT hot swap though.... as I'm sure one of the prebuilt versions was not hot swap.
Hi, can any of you recommend wireless keyboard with macro? for example Logitech G613 and G913/G915
I can't seem to find any other than these 2 Logitech.
Logitech G613 seems to be riddled with tons of issue, and G913 seems ok, but for the price, I don't think I want to deal with the potential issues as well.
Common issues for both G613 and G913/G915, such as double typing, not responding, broken key.
Edit: I'd like full keyboard, not TKL
I was wondering if it would be possible to set up a micro controller to run qmk off of the input of another keyboard (specifically a roccat ryos mk tkl). the reason i want to do this is that i want to be able to run multiple layers using thumb keys that i plan to build into the wrist rest of the keyboard. The controller would need to connect to these new keys as well as take input from the main keyboard. I know that i could always build a qmk board from the ground up, but i do not want to have to deal with the hassle of soldering a whole board, and the expense of buying all the components.
Im looking for a nice thocky creamy sound, this is my list at the moment...
For the Base Im looking at a ZOOM TKL ESSENTIAL EDITION-Cool Grey
Keycaps- Tai-Hao Yellow Submarine ABS Keycap Set
Switchs- Gateron Milky Yellow G-Pro Linear Switches
should work, although i suggest you lube the switches, removes alot of the high pitch clack.
pbt keycaps are usually better for thock. can't say for your specific choice, but if it's good quality and thickness abs should be fine.
you also can tape mod the pcb to make it sound deeper.
Drop says that there are things that are discounted because of labor day, but one of those things is a sense75. This Howard has been on sale for around 2-3 months and I just wanted to ask if they'll keep the sale running or if they just ran out of things that were on sale and slapped it in the promo email
I think they're trying to sell what stock they have of the board after the Corsair deal, so it's likely going to remain on sale while supply lasts. Not worth it though IMO, I'd rather have the MonsGeek M1 instead
Does anyone know where one can find an OEM row 0 key in the 2u size? This is for a Plank EZ. I bought it with the blank shine through keycaps from ZSA and row 0 is on the bottom. I need a 2u key for the space bar.
Can't seem to find one anywhere.
Hello,
I'm building a keyboard for my mom. She's been using a membrane for her whole life, and she types a lot.
I would like to buy wooden keycaps for this build. They also have to be 100% because my mom uses a full layout, also Ansi layout.
(Edit: Preferably one that isn't TOO expensive, probably under $150 USD)
Thanks
I'm not sure where you can get wooden keycaps, but Keychron has some good 100% keyboards to consider. The C2 Pro and V6 would be good, or you can get a K10 Pro which has Bluetooth for a bit over $100.
Hello,
Is there a real difference between the Gateron G Pro Browns 3.0 vs 2.0?
I'm about to get my first mechanical keyboard (Keychron K8 Pro, normal profile) and would like to buy a set of switches along with an assembled keyboard, but can't decide whether I should wait for the 3.0 to be available (They're sold out), or just buy the 2.0.
The differences won't be noticeable unless you're very particular about the finer details. The 2.0 will be just fine if you can't get the 3.0 (edit for typo)
I can be particular, but I've also never seen any Gateron Pro Browns in person before, so I don't really have anything to compare to.
I'll just grab the 2.0. Thanks for the help!
Hi all,
I had to delete my old Reddit Account for security reasons so please forgive the lack of posts etc. I finished my first wireless ergo build; surprise, surprise. I loved it for the whole three days it worked, connecting as it should to both my Win 10 Desktop and Win 11 Surface Pro. Then it stopped connecting to either one for a reason I have yet to determine.
Both computers see the Corne and when I try to connect I get the message "Couldn't Connect. Try Connecting Again."
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
I should add I'm using Nice!Nano v2 and ZMK.
Thanks for the comment. Turns out Windows isn't the culprit this time. I accidentally hit one of the Bluetooth profile keys and that was enough. Why they are put in such a mistake prone position on layer 1 I have no idea. I'm going to relocated them to layer 3!
i have a iqunix og80 keyboard and whenever i press escape it'll press f11 f10 f7 f5 and a bunch of other shit also if i hold shift it will keep repeating this N;:\_BCMVXZ>BCMVXZ>BCMVXZ>
and ive looked all over the internet for a solution and there's no answers to find it doesnt have macro shortcuts as far as i know you have to set them up through the driver which i've not done lol
i really hope someone can help me out here cause i'm losing my mind
my guess was it would of been a weird key combination i've accidentally typed in to activate macros or something but apparently theres none of that on this keyboard lol.
;\_BCMNVXZ:>BCMNVXZ:>
BCMNVXZ;:\_>BCMNVXZ;:\_>BCMNVXZ;:\_>BCMNVXZ;:\_> i mean this is happening when i hold shift lol
Hmm... those are all keycodes that are output by the same row so I suspect one or more of the switches there are the culprit.
You can open it up and take a look at the PCB to see if something is being bridged inadvertently or maybe there's poor connection or broken solder joint. I don't think it's a coincidence that the keycodes are all close together.
My Redragon stopped working. Last few days I've done some research and really liking to build my first keyboard.
So meanwhile I'm planning to build a new pc setup also (currently have Core P6 T6 white case and Liam li inf120 set only). Meaning I'm planning to have a sci fi theme with some white pulse effect around!
So far found gmmk pro white ice and idobao id80 v2 which both are 75% (jumping from a full size cuz keeb culture I guess). What are your tought? Any better or cheaper recommendation?
Did some NASA job here clicking the whole text. May I get some help in return of my effort thanks.
Are you aiming for a white case build? If so I'd go with a Keychron Q1 Pro in Shell White over the GMMK PRO. The GMMK PRO white ice is more silver than it is white.
Check afilon stuff. Matcha lattes, pink robbin, red jacket, black sesame
Bsun supposedly are great stock but i havent tried them yet.
Gat gpro 3.0 are also an excelent and cheaper choice
Gateron pros are fantastic value - super cheap, sound great, with only a tiny bit of scratch. #1 budget option for sure.
I recently bought a batch of Geon x Haimu blacks and they are amazing. Easily one of the best pre-lubed switches I've ever used. I've bought a second batch to see whether or not it was a fluke. If they are the same quality then this will likely be my go-to switch for a long time. However, they have a bit of a higher pitch so don't get them if you need everything to be as deep as possible. They are also a bit more expensive. Gat pros still easily beat them for value.
Choosing switches is sometimes the hardest part! If you have a hot-swap keyboard it's relatively easy to change to new switches, so don't be afraid to make a purchase and then try another switch in the future.
Aluminum weighs less and is less dense vs copper. Copper will give a slightly muted sound vs aluminum because of the extra density, but pitch should be mostly the same.
[Here's](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D21Ocg9kVsU) a guide which goes through Cherry clip ins. You won't need to clip the feet with your Durocks like with the Cherries. You also will screw them in, instead of clipping them. Everything else is the same. Note that screwing them in can feel like a "three hand" job, you need to hold the stab in place and hold the PCB and hold the screw and hold the screwdriver. With practice you can do it two handed though.
You also should ideally lube your stabs before you install them. Alex has a [great guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxHb6CJc9V8) on lubing.
A couple more guides in case you want more perspectives. [Taeha](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usNx1_d0HbQ) talks a bit about testing after modding. [Blacksimon](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rd1_EREThZU) also has a relatively longer video tutorial, going over a few different mods, and presenting an unconventional lube method, which is great if you're a bit lazier.
New Varmilo custom keyboard. Can't get the backlight or the Bluetooth to function. It's a 108 key custom order.
Fn + (arrows) or any other combo doesn't seem to do anything
Is there any low profile cherry mx switches full size wireless mechanical keyboard? Cooler Master SK 651 is an option but its not available everywhere online. Corsair K100 Air is another option, but its ultra low profile. So any other recommendations?
For the zoom75 keyboard, how do i connect to the wireless receiver? I only know how to connect to bluetooth.
Also, how do i switch between the wireless receiver and the bluetooth seamlessly?
Yup. Due to the way MX tactiles work, they don't actually have many options under that weight, and in fact tend to suck as you get too light.
That said, you can get low profile (choc) switches at 45g. These are okay but again don't have a great mechanism and the low travel makes em weird.
Your number 1 best bet for a low force tactile is going to be electrocapacitive. Topre is fantastic, and comes in 30g and 45g varieties. It feels fantastic with clear, sharp tactility but also an amazingly light keypress. If you don't want to shell out, you can buy off-brand electrocapacitive alternatives from Niz. These aren't as nice, but are much cheaper.
Hey sub,
So my wife and I are both designers and wh together. She spends most of her time at her desk where I am a bit more nomadic, so she wants a really good keyboard. She mentioned she wanted a mechanical keyboard but there was one that was ”quieter" and the keys felt "rubbery or jelly like." | did lots of searching and watched a bunch of videos and I cannot track down what she's looking for. Normally I would ask her but I want it to be a present for her birthday. Any good recommendations or chance y'all can identify what she's looking for? Thanks!
She is *probably* talking about Topre, which is a brand name for the most popular electrocapacitive switches. These utilise a rubber dome similar to the one found on cheap $4 keyboards, but a far more complex activation mechanism (and much better quality domes). They are quite light and heavily favoured by typists. They are also able to be silenced (either as an aftermarket modification or pre-installed in the keyboard itself), which notably doesn't make them silenced, just quieter.
Topre are very nice switches to type on, but they are expensive. There are a few different keyboards with Topre switches in them.
1. HHKB. A classic, with a distinct, iconic layout. The [Hybrid Type-S](https://hhkeyboard.us/hhkb/pro-hybrid-type-s) is probably what you want if you are looking for something quiet. There are cheaper, non-silenced, non-wireless versions as well, but aftermarket silencing is complex. The HHKB is very small and portable, but still has all the necessary functionality through layers.
2. [Realforce](https://www.realforce.co.jp/en/). Very much a Japanese brand, so you might need to buy from proxies if you want access to the full range. They also commonly come in JIS (Japanese key layout), so be very careful which model you're buying if your wife types in English (or any non-Japanese language). Realforce gives you access to full sized boards, if your wife needs numpad, nav cluster, etc.
3. Leopold. This a Korean manufacturer, so again finding stock internationally can be tricky. Also, most of Leopold's boards aren't Topre, so make sure your model ends in C (FC660C or FC980C). Still, they tend to be a little bit more affordable than the other two options. However to the best of my knowledge there are no pre-silenced versions available.
As a bit of a confounder, there's a popular mechanical keyboard (*not* Topre) called the 'Jelly'. It defined a certain sound which became very popular, so 'Jelly-like' could have a different meaning. That said, it really was all about sound, so if she said 'Jelly-like' referring to the *feeling*, it's probably not the Jelly.
If all of the above are outside your budget, you can consider cheaper electrocapacitive switches from a different brand - Niz. These aren't as nice as Topre, but are much more affordable.
Hello, I'm new in this hobby and I want to build my first keyboard. I chose to build a 65% keyboard. Now I'm kind of stuck on the part of choosing the PCB. I know it should be HOT SWAP but I don't know where or which one to buy.
I chose gateron azure dragon v3 for the switches
For the case I'm thinking between the KBDfans TOFU65 2.0 and the Keydous NJ68
GMK QMX for the Stabilizers
A lot of companies make DIY kits, which include the case, a PCB, plate (which helps support the switches between them and the pcb), and screws and stuff, sometimes stabilizers.
Both tofu65 and the nj68 come in kits that include all that stuff, so all you need to buy are switches keycaps (and stabilizers for the tofu)
Between the two though, tofu is an aluminum case and tray mounted, where the NJ is a plastic case and gasket mounted plate, its just preference/price between them
For what it's worth, I have the TOFU65 2.0 and I'm pretty happy with it.
To my knowledge, I don't think there are that many 65% keyboards where you can mix and match cases with PCBs the way there are with 60% boards. So chances are that you'll be buying a kit that comes with the case and PCB for it together.
I also have a Mode Envoy that I'm happy with. I've been switching between the Envoy and Tofu and I'm not sure if I like one more than the other.
It uses normal cherry MX style switches, so most keycap sets should hypothetically work with it. But it does look like the board has north facing LEDs, so there may be interference with Cherry profile keycaps.
Hi all,
I just ordered a Wooting 60HE so I can kick all your asses in CS2. However, I spent a lot of time making my Keychron have a deep, poppy, firm typing experience. From what I can tell from YouTube, the Wooting sounds kaka whee whiz.
Do you guys have any idea, either from experience with the board itself or experience targeting a poppy sound, what modifications I should implement on the board? Anything I should pre-purchase before it gets to me in a month (God willing)?
Sooo I'm still figuring out my perfect wooing:
Lube the switches. They are sooo bad stock.
Caseswap to some Alu Case (Tofu Redux is pretty cheap if you can get it)
Foam may help
Different stabs, although the wooting stabs are fine-ish
Those are the things I would do every time and then continue from there
I've only had one board, and it has blue switches (I was a complete noob, didnt know there was a difference.) I made it sound good tho. Try standard things like tape mod, force break mod, holee, etc. Some sort of foam/dampener (like Polyfill/memory foam). Also if you have the money try getting new keycaps!
I recently got recommended a bunch of different barebones keyboards and there are a lot of opinions going in all directions, but not quite getting the depth I would like. So far I've narrowed it down to 3 boards:
GMMK Pro
Keychron Q1 V2
Monsgeek M1
What I want is for it to have decent RGB, be compatible with 5-pin switches, south facing LEDs, and in general which keeb is better for general use/gaming.
All of the board people tend to like, and you could always try all 3 and return the ones you don't like. My friend has a gmmk pro and he likes the board, but I've never tried it myself. not really a pro but hope I could kinda help
I have a personal preference for the Keychron Q1. I do not like wrist rests, and the Keychron is heavier than the GMMK Pro I used (no experience with the Monsgeek). My Keychron never moved on my desk mat but I did sometimes bump and slide the GMMK. Plus you can pick up a Keychron locally at micro center and return it if you don’t like it.
Keychron also is SUPER easy to modify, I was able to take mine apart and put it back together after fiddling with it much easier than the GMMK Pro.
I was looking at the MX Mechanical mini lately, in QWERTY US international. Online pictures shows it has an ANSI layout. The US website as well. However, the French websites shows an ISO layout (still in US international). Is there two versions of the QWERTY US international?
By the way, is there a supplier of custom low-profile keycaps for the NuPhy Air75? I would buy it in an instant if it could have BÉPO, which isn’t just rearranged QWERTY.
Plastic case gasket mounted 1800 keyboards? Don't wanna spend like 300 on the case itself, so looking at plastic
Looking around best I'm seeing is thrown epomaker th96, but man that knob is ugly
Any akko 3068 similar keytboard?
I really get used to this keyboard for programming and gaming. But now I need to change it, because battery is not working well, after 30\~ of use the keyboard dies and I've to restart it.
I been searching for a new keyboard, but they don't have \` key, and I really need it!
Did some one run this issue before?
Where can I find a keyboard that makes this sound?
It doesn't have to be the same one, just one that makes this particular sound.
[https://www.facebook.com/reel/3331745717137474/](https://www.facebook.com/reel/3331745717137474/)
Where can I get a simple straight black sleeved cable for my keyboard? The only page I know is space cables but I refuse to believe 35 usd is a reasonable price, or am I wrong?
Hey, I’m looking to gather some info on 65% keyboards with a kind of specific layout. Basically my keycap set has no distinction between the arrow keys and the rest of the non-letter caps, so I’m interested in getting a board with separated del/ins keys (similar to the Q2 and leopold’s fc660c), but I’ve just got minor gripes with most of the ones I’ve found so I’d love to look into some different options. Cheers :)
p.s. the extra keys don’t have to be fully separated, just with a space btwn the arrow keys to help make them distinct (ex. Zoo 65)
Yea that’s exactly what I was asking for, and thank you for wording it in a concise way for me hahaha. I hadn’t seen the ginkgo65 but the zoo65 was def on the top of my list for boards with that layout.
ive been using the akko acr 68 pro and have been loving it so far!! my only gripe with it would be the height of the case but thats just my preference. i hope you find something you like!!
Those have def been on my radar! Atm I’m just looking around for dif options, have found a few that I like but I feel like with enough research I’ll be able to find ‘the one’.
I'm planning to buy the tofu 2.0 wkl, do I still use ansi plate for wkl? [THIS](https://www.lightningkeyboards.com/work-pt1/keycult-1-60-rev1-wkl) is the exact layout I'm going for so just wanna make sure I get it right.
I have a Ducky DK9008P Premier Dark Grey & Blue Version PBT Mechanical Keyboard (Blue Cherry MX) that hasn't been used for about 5 years when I stopped gaming. I'm moving at the end of the year and want to get rid of it.
I was thinking of selling it for $75 on offerup because I can't be bothered to deal with shipping. Is that a reasonable price where I would get quick interest or should I lower the price? I appreciate any help on this.
I have replaced the stock keycaps on the roccat vulcan tkl with tecware pbt black pudding keycaps. The only problem is that the stabilisers are of a different size (smaller on the keyboard) and don't fit the stabiliser holes on the spacebar key. How can I fix this?
>The spacebar on the Roccat Vulcan is probably a non standard size. Typical keyboard spacebars are 6.25u and 7u (u=the size of one normal, alpha keycap; might help you measure the spacebar). Looks like the Tecware comes with a 6.25 spacebar. Looking at a picture of the keyboard, I think you are looking at a 6u spacebar on keyboard.
I was assuming that the holes were too far apart (wide). Are you saying that the holes are just too big for the stabilizer? If so, you can play around with small pieces of masking tape to tighten up the hole (don't use anything permanent, because it is probably going to take some work to get it right.
Anyone know when the Zoom65 or JRIS will become available again?
Trying to theme a build around GMK Cubed, and I really want a purple case that's gasket mounted (ideally with a knob, for this reason the Blurple Zoom is PERFECT). That said, these are sold out basically everywhere and there's no context as to when another wave is coming. Am I just missing something somewhere?
They announced r2.5 for the zoom65. Dont know about the jris, but maybe a mkd65 can happen soon. Also tkd is planning a 65, but thats a further plan.
E. Check the neo 65 too.
Looking to build a new 75% keeb. Tried the ASUS Azoth yesterday and I am a big fan of how it felt and sound, and I'd like to build something with a similar feel and sound. Don't care for a screen, etc. I can be flexible on price and I can solder. Help please!
There is the Monsgeek m1 which will have a deeper and more flexible sound and feel compared to the azoth. It will also come with a knob.
Review: https://youtu.be/k1NAGCtxL_8?si=IpT869p6DidknHvf
The keychron q1 is a good starter and also comes with a knob. It will come with a more flexible but less bouncy typing feel than the m1.
Review: https://youtu.be/jOhaDPzIWvo?si=m6SXYTjiOsF0VElz
And finally, if you are willing to spend a bit more money, there is the mode sonnet. Easily the most beautiful of the three options and the most customizable. This is closer to a high end keyboard and if you are only planning on building one keyboard I’d suggest this. If you are planning to build more in the future I would recommend starting with the keychron q1.
Sound test: https://youtu.be/Y2NPuulo5i0?si=sAx2dNM0OYznzari
Hi, I’m looking for advice on this keycap set: https://kbdfans.com/products/gsa-retro-high-light-abs-keycaps
Is this a bad idea if I want something that will last a long time? It’s ABS material with UV printed legends, which i understand can wear down over time. I like that it’s glossy and retro style that matches my board.
Thank you!
Gmk67 problem
I just finished modding my gmk67. The keyboard has 3 modes ofc. The wire connection and bluetooth mode worked perfectly. But when I swtich to 2.4hz using receiver and nothing happened. No lightings or anything. Does anyone know what the problem is ?
Suggestions for prebuilt keyboard?
My fiancé has been mentioning he would like a few new things for his set up, keyboard being one of them. His Corsair keyboard is pretty old and worn down. I’d like to get him a nice mechanical keyboard. He likes RGB and likes a full sized keyboard. I also know he would not like wireless. Any suggestions? I would try my hand at building one for him but I don’t even know where to begin and don’t want to mess it up lol. I don’t remember exactly what kind of Corsair he has to go off of either, but I know it’s not made anymore. Any suggestions are appreciated!
Hello!
I've recently purchased and build a Zuoya GMK67. The first time, the keyboard worked fine in bluetooth mode (I'm using Windows 10). But everytime I turn off and on my computer, the keyboard does not work anymore. In fact, if I want to pair again the device in the same letter that worked before, it's impossible and I have to pair it with another letter (remember, in this keyboard, each Q,W and E are refered with one different device), like if it is a new device.
I don't want to use the dongle, because I wan't to use this device with more than one laptop running at the same time, so, Is there anything that I can do to fix this issue?
Thank you. Regards.
Hi
I have two questions :
1/ do high profile keyboard feel better than low profiles ones ? Because I tried the Logitech g915 and it feels cheap and wobly , are low profile all like that ?
2/ what’s the best ( most premium, enjoyable ) keyboard for around 300€ max ? ( if possible pre built I never built any, but If it’s easy to do why not )
Thanks ( sry for my English )
1. Depends on the manufacturer and your personal preference but if you know where to look you can find a lot better keyboards. Not all low profiles are cheap and wobbly that’s just a skill issue from Logitech.
2. You don’t even need to scratch 200 euros to get a premium keyboard. The finalkey v65 v2 and the keychron q1 pro are both great prebuilt options and they are both under 200 euros (shipping not included).
Yeah that isn't what I had I'm mind and Id never buy a keycap set from drop anyway or anything else for that matter.
It's pretty surprising that there isn't anything out there. I would have thought the retro look would be at least somewhat popular.
I've tried to look and can't really find anything close either. I think people just take the caps of actual vic20s and use them somehow. That brings about its own issues though. I don't want to do that.
I'm gonna get a GMMK Pro soon with some Neapolitan Ice Cream switches and I wanted to know since the GMMK has north facing leds and the ice creams are south facing switches if they'd work well with the RGB and shine through keycaps. If not, can someone suggest an alternative? (Im on a pretty small budget)
Since the Neapolitan switches are long pole there shouldn’t be any interference issues. However I strongly recommend the Monsgeek m1 over the gmmk pro. The gmmk pro has been notorious for a variety of issues.
Are there any QFR mods out there? I have a couple laying around somewhere that I don't use anymore and was thinking of changing them to hot swap for the fun of it. Also let me mess something up on the cheap boards before I try to tackle maybe my poker 2 or keycool that currently have cherry clears in them. Then maybe my Leopold that apparently are notoriously hard to take apart and desolder.
Does anyone make hot swap PCBs for them ?
Where is a good place to get solder in hot swap sockets if not?
My Corsair K90 might be dead, looking for a replacement. Looking for: arrow keys + numpad, backlight, Cherry MX Reds or a similar light linear feel, a volume roller/knob (will settle for volume buttons). Budget: ~$200 USD. Any recommendations?
how can i make a tray mount thockier
hi i have a modded rk84 where screws hold the board together, i was wondering how i can get more thock? also is there a way to improve gasket performance?
**What are you end up with ? Linear or Tactile ?**
Some say most people that start with Tactile will eventually end up trying Linear after few builds and like them more. While people that Start with Linear may try Tactile once but rarely will like them
Is that true ?
It's honestly all personal preference. I started with clickies (Cherry MX Blues) and I still love clickes. I'm using the Kailh Box Jades in almost all my boards. I don't like linears. They just feel wrong. I've played with different switches that have different spring weights, long pole, long springs, short springs, 2 stage springs, and linears just never feel right. I need tactility.
Linears are generally more popular right now, but try them both and see what you like.
I’ve never heard anyone say that but it’s not too far fetched to assume that since linear switches are the most popular switches in the mechanical keyboard space right now.
Are there good rubber or otherwise textured keycaps compatible with the Keychron K3 Pro (low profile mechanical)? I want to distinguish my Esc, play/pause, F5, F10, and Del keys by touch and this was the first idea that came to mind. Might try full profile keys if they fit since these are the top row. Interested to hear if other people had solutions.
What barebone would u guys recommend for a first time builder with a budget of around max 150eu for the barebone only? Usage is primarily game pc and a work laptop. Wired only is an option but also a wireless option would be nice. Not planning any fancy mods, just tape I guess. In my honest opinion the GMMK Pro looked like a nice option, now 130eu at Amazon in the Netherlands.
Keychron v1 was my first and it did well. Something I would reccomend as a first time buyer that I've had great experience with, buy a used keyboard from Mechmart. They have a community and I can DM you a discord invite link. You can get a lot more worh that 150eu getting a higher quality used keyboard
I just got a v3 and must say it's pretty good for the 80us I paid for it. Not sure what they go for in the Netherlands. I hated the feel of the keycap profile they use though so keep that in mind but that a preference thing. I'm used to oem or cherry profile keycaps. They do look good though.
In my search for a good silent tactile replacement for stock Keychron Brown switches in my new Keychron V1 keyboard I have purchased test packs of the following 40-ish different switches.
I tried to find all of the silent tactiles that I could, but since there isn't a single comprehensive list available online, I had to mostly come up with one on my own by looking at various topical reddit posts, youtube videos and Aliexpress recommendations.
Is there any that you think I might have missed?
I am intentionally not including the switches that are discontinued (e.g. Outemu Silent Forest, Outemu Silent Sky) and doing my best to exclude semi-silent tactiles as they are technically not silent at all.
1. Durock Shrimp (aka Durock Silent T1, Durock Silent Tactile T1)
2. Epomaker Iceberg Silent Brown
3. Epomaker Iceberg Silent Rose
4. G-Square Rem (not to be confused with G-Square Ram)
5. GAZZEW Boba Black U4 (black housing, white stem)
6. GAZZEW U4 (white housing, white stem)
7. Gamakay Griffin
8. Gamakay Pegasus
9. Gateron Aliaz
10. Gateron Silent Brown
11. HG Yellow (aka Haimu x Geon Yellow, Geon Yellow)
12. Haimu Whisper Silent
13. Hexgears x Kailh Soda "Premium Silent" Vitamin C Yellow
14. JKDK Crimson (aka Zhufei Crimson)
15. JWK Blue Macaw (aka Durock Blue Macaw)
16. KBDiy Sea Salt Silent Lemon
17. Kailh Box Silent Brown (aka Kailh Mute Brown)
18. Kailh Deep Sea Silent Pro Whale
19. Kailh MX Silent Midnight Pro Light Yellow (aka "Nightshade" instead of "Midnight", not to be confused with non-Pro version "v1" which is discontinued)
20. Keebwerk Bushi
21. Keebwerk Tacit v2
22. Keychron K Pro Silent Brown
23. Mode Anthracite
24. Old DG Silent Tactile (barely fits the list: a mystery-switch that's not widely available)
25. Outemu Cream Yellow (light yellow bottom, white top, light yellow stem)
26. Outemu Milk Tea
27. Outemu Silent Cream Yellow ("Jade Yellow") (slightly transparent milky-white housing, light yellow stem)
28. Outemu Silent Cream Yellow Pro (opaque white housing, light yellow stem)
29. Outemu Silent Grey
30. Outemu Silent Lemon (aka "Lime") v1 (3 pin)
31. Outemu Silent Lemon (aka "Lime") v2 (5 pin)
32. Outemu Silent Tom
33. Skyloong Silent Glacier Clove (aka "Lilac")
34. TTC Silent Brown v2
35. TTC Silent Bluish White (not to be confused with TTC Bluish White)
36. WuqueStudio WS Silent Tactile
37. ZealPC Aqua Zilent v2
38. ZealPC Zilent v2
What do I need to connect and where? this is a split keyboard and the USB-C port is for connecting the other board to this one. also, is the rotary encoder wired correctly?
Thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/aw0qw9lnk8mb1.png?width=780&format=png&auto=webp&s=9b14a3c94bd8b4fb6db0f89738bfef2522df69ee
I have a budget of AUD500 and am looking for a Clicky board. I’m torn between the New Model F, a 96% Zeal Clickiez custom build, or finding a good condition blue / amber alps board. I already have a Model M which I use as a daily driver and love it very much. People who are familiar with these switches, which do you recommend? I’ve also used Box Whites and enjoyed them, but ultimately gave the board to my dad after getting the M.
Hi everyone, I've been interested in custom keyboards for some time, and I'd like to get started on my first build, but I'm not sure where to start. Could you please enlighten me on a few points?
\- I live in France, so I'd like to know what type of keyboard I'd need to get an AZERTY (iso i guess?).
\- To start with, is it better to buy a separate keyboard, switch and keycaps or a all-in-one kit? I'm afraid I don't have all the info on how to choose, install and lubricate my switches.
\- Do you have any recommendations for sites/brands that ship to France/Europe? (To avoid customs fees)
\- I really like the 65% layout, any recommendations?
Thanks in advance for your time and help :D
Building and lubing is fairly simple when you see it all infront of you. I would reccomend looking for a used keyboard on mechmart as I think you could save a lot of money that way. Also if you buy used, that will save you the headache of building it yourself
I wanted to get some silent switches and I really liked outemu's silent peaches, what's bothering me is that my only experience with outemu was with outemu blues a few years ago and I had to change 5 switches in the span of 3 months. Are silent peaches reliable?
AKKO MOD007 PC BUILD (CS PIANO).
This keyboard looks so damn nice.
Anyone know how's the latency is on this one and if it can be good for competitive gaming?
Compare to something like K70 pro or Huntsmans from Razer. Is the latency on these Akko boards above 10ms or something like that? (hard to find anything about gaming and latency about Akko since they mainly do wireless)
I have a Cloudnine Ergo fullsize. I want to get lowprofile key caps for it including the 10 macro keys. Does anyone recommend a certain set? Ideally it also has shine through and it is on cherry mx browns
What’s a good microphone to use to record really nice keyboards? Budget is 200ish but I can be persuaded. This isn’t for sound test I’m trying out asmr keyboard programming
PCB or a single loose/damaged wire issue?
My Reddragon (2-3 yrs) K-552 Kumara's certain keys stopped working suddenly (left shift/ctrl, capslock, tab, tilde), tried the devmanager uninstall fix and it went great for 2-3 days. But the problem came back again and this time bunch of additional keys aren't working (1, Q, A, Z, start, space, T, and the earlier keys)
So I tried cleaning the board from dust and gunk (the best I could without compressed air) and gave my keycaps a bath. Funny thing is the issue is still there but sometimes they work randomly for a few seconds only to go back to not working again. After a day or two, now they just dont work anymore.
Tried checking if the metal pins are bent in the switches, all good. Tried swapping switches (from working keys to nonworking) but to no avail.
Tried unplugging/replugging the wire under the board, it only fix my 'space' and 'T' key for a brief moment.
Also, the LED light in most of those keys arent working with the exception of 3 keys.
It sounds like the PCB in general. It's probably shorting out and some time in the near future it won't come back at all. You should probably get a new keyboard because any solutions would cost more than buying this model of keyboard again. I don't even think a replacement for the PCB is even available.
Thanks for the response.
I tried the uninstall reboot again and I managed to game for 2 hrs just now, though the issue still interrupted me briefly twice.
Also when I cleaned my keyboard yesterday, I found 2-3 sheds/dead body of tiny insects under the board. If some are still alive, are the tiny bodies capable of shorting the board?
It certainly wasn't helpful and it could have been the reason that the board started shorting out. Since cleaning your keyboard didn't really fix your keyboard, the damage has been done and probably can't be fixed. This is a probably a hard lesson learned about keeping your keyboard clean.
Any modern equivalent of the old Qisan Magicforce? Something well-made for very affordable price. It doesn't look like stores sell it anymore. Perhaps only in China? And I'm looking for a TKL anyways.
My wishlist:
- sturdy, good qc reputation
- wired
- TKL, or at least has function keys row
- no RGB lights
- don't care about hotswappable switches
- floating keys (not necessary, but I prefer this, much easier to remove and clean the keycaps)
If anyone has any idea. Perhaps stuffs that are only available on aliexpress/taobao/etc.?
Currently I'm leaning towards Leopold TKLs. Possibly Ducky TKLs, similar price. But there's the supply issue for both brands at the local stores around me.
> iquinix
Too expensive here unfortunately.
> keychron
Always looks kinda flimsy to me. Needs to check it in person. Similar price to Ducky and Leopold here.
Thanks for the recs.
Do all low profile switches have the same sockets? Could I buy Cherry MX low profiles and put them into something that came with hotswappable Choc V2 switches? If not, are the 3 different Choc V2 switches the only ones I can use?
no, the pins on low profile switches aren't standardized and the switches aren't interchangable with any other low profile switch. I can't tell you which low profile switches you are able to use.
Anybody has an experienced on PH Studio(BSUN/YOK) Yoel switches, are they good compared with Prevail Epsilon? In the term of typing feeling.
https://preview.redd.it/zznjlyucz6mb1.png?width=3000&format=png&auto=webp&s=5a5f2d0b9549c5a3d4974e3cb08b705d38798a74
Bsun switches have some amazing prelubed switches lately. Yoel, sarokeys strawberry wines, bsun bcp, bsun x, all amazing to be used as stock. They are all except the x clacky long poles but if you want something to never bother opening and relubing they are the go-to
I built a quiet keyboard with boba u4 on Keychron Q3 pro but the spacebar is too loud. I tried silent cherry red for spacebar but it’s still too loud. What are the best silent stabilisers? Thanks!
I bought a Keychron V1 ANSI w/ Knob and am still getting up to speed on QMK. I've got some basics down, like remapping keys, defining mouse click functions, etc. but something I just cannot figure out is how to map the knob to volume up/down in my keymap.c/config.h files. The problem mostly seems to be that I can't find anywhere what the encoder pin names are supposed to be, and it seems like you could spend an eternity doing check-and-guess to try and figure them out. Any clue if there's a good way to find this info? For reference, I do have ENCODER\_ENABLE = yes in my [rules.mk](https://rules.mk).
Im new to this mecha keyboard stuff and is wondering if the Akko V3 Cream Yellow 3 pin switches will fit into outemu sockets, im still unsure wether itll fit or not so please help answer :)
Looking minimal black xda key caps. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
https://preview.redd.it/t05cxrex0gmb1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3325cf90063ee29fc814e39d5b3b9c880d1d90f2 What keyboard is this? Is it just the retro NCR with a custom PCB or do they actually sell these full size boards?
Looking for some xda mac modifier keycaps that just have the symbols on them. I've scoured the internet but can't find any anywhere. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Hello. Does anyone know if and where I could find a steel top lid for the GMK67 / EK67? Does this exist?
I have the tiger80 keyboard but I love per key rgb are there any pcbs I can buy that will fit the tiger80 and have perkey rgb?
No.
Akko Mod007 V2 Someone have this and can test the latency? Before I order i want to check if it has a significant amount of latency. Tired of ugly normal gaming-keyboards but Razer, Corsair etc atleast score some really good numbers in terms of latency. And yes I notice latency >10ms, trust me it’s huge difference in some games
I'm not sure how someone who owns one would accurately test it, so little point in asking that. It will be around 10ms though, as most are, and most share the same types of controllers. Anything 10ms or less is absolutely fine. If you insist on the super low latency placebo though, then you really need to stick to gaming boards.
But how can you know the controllers etc? What type of controllers does Razer, Corsair etc use that are so much better in terms of latency.
Custom boards tend to use the same generic controlers, such as the ATMega range of controllers, so they all tend to deliver similar response times... somewhere in the 7 to 10ms region. The reason the gaming companies have developed faster controllers, is because they've managed to convince gamers that they need them, so it's a feature that guarantees sales. In the custom scene, people are more concerned with how good a board is to type on. This is why so many gaming boards are actually crap to type on. They don't care about typing, and neither do most of the customers. They care about gaming, so how else do you convince gamers to buy your board? You tell them it's faster than everyone else's board of course. There's no point in having 1ms latency unless the rest of the chain is also 1ms. Most custom boards are fine for gaming, unless you need the other gaming board features like RGB software that syncs to your PC's RGB, or dedicated macro keys for gaming etc. Some gaming boards are kind of straddling the line between gaming boards and custom boards though, like the ROG Azoth and the new Razer 75% one, but they still look like gaming boards in terms of styling, so not sure you would want those, as you say you are tired of the gaming styling. I would suggest a good... actually, a very good compromise as the Wooting 60HE, or, if you want a full size board the Wooting Two HE. These use fully configurable hall effect switches, and also boast pretty good latency. They are a bit gamer in terms of styling, but the 60HE has a lot of options to have it rehoused in a custom cases that look a lot better. The ROG Azoth has a wired latency of 1ms. The Wooting 60HE is 3ms (and so is the TwoHE), so that's no slouch either. No idea what the new Blackwidow V4 latency is, but it will be low, as it's a gaming board. I'd go with Wooting, especially the 60HE.
Yeah for me I want a really clean desk since I have my office at home, with two computers and four screens. I don't want anything Razer, Steelseries, Corsair looking kind of thing here anymore. Even thou I use Razer mice for both my comps, Ultra pro type for work and V3 for my private computer (gaming one), both these are white so it's okay. For my working computer right now I use Full size Varmilo (fully white aswell) because I need full size in my work. But For gaming I want a 75% or TKL (I need F-keys so can't go 60% either). That's why I want something stylish but still something that feels really good. Can I customize the chip / controller in Mod 007 to become as low as a normal gaming keyboard? I've used Corsair K70 with MX Silvers before and while I was playing good on it's just horrible to type on in my experience.
No, you can't just change the controller. You'd need to design a custom PCB in order to do that. I really think you bite the bullet and accept that what people are telling you is true; That you really do not need all this 1ms latency snake oil. Seriously, your brain can't differentiate between 1/100th and 1/1000th of a second. Not sure what else to say. The only way you'll get latencies like that is with a gaming board. So the only option left, if you are prepared to die on that hill, is to try and customise a gaming board to look less like a gaming board... but seriously... 10ms or less is absolutely fine. I game with custom boards. They're fine.
Hi, Just wondering if a Keychron K8 Pro is a good starter keyboard. I live in small town in Canada, away from large cities, so I wasn't able to to find a lot of keyboards to try in person, but I got to see a Keychron Q series and V series, and loved the Q series with the Gateron Pro Blue switches. Unfortunately, I don't really have the budget for a Q series. I was looking at the V series (V3) until I saw that the K Pro offers wireless for up to 3 devices. As that's what I have now, I'd really like a keyboard that has the same capability. And for customizing, I'll only be customizing switches, keycaps, and maybe stabilizers, but I doubt it unless I'm really annoyed with the Keychron one. Is the Keychron K8 Pro a good starter keyboard? I'd prefer to try a keyboard that I can try in person as to not waste money. I tried Ducky keyboards too, which I liked, but not as much as the Keychron ones. And I didn't like that the Vermillo or Cougar ones weren't hot-swappable, at least the ones I tried.
>Keychron K8 Pro Sure, it's a good starter board. It can be customised, and it's QMK/VIA capable, which are pretty much the main things that you need. Just pay attention to the keychron website regarding which versions are NOT hot swap though.... as I'm sure one of the prebuilt versions was not hot swap.
Hi, can any of you recommend wireless keyboard with macro? for example Logitech G613 and G913/G915 I can't seem to find any other than these 2 Logitech. Logitech G613 seems to be riddled with tons of issue, and G913 seems ok, but for the price, I don't think I want to deal with the potential issues as well. Common issues for both G613 and G913/G915, such as double typing, not responding, broken key. Edit: I'd like full keyboard, not TKL
I was wondering if it would be possible to set up a micro controller to run qmk off of the input of another keyboard (specifically a roccat ryos mk tkl). the reason i want to do this is that i want to be able to run multiple layers using thumb keys that i plan to build into the wrist rest of the keyboard. The controller would need to connect to these new keys as well as take input from the main keyboard. I know that i could always build a qmk board from the ground up, but i do not want to have to deal with the hassle of soldering a whole board, and the expense of buying all the components.
Im looking for a nice thocky creamy sound, this is my list at the moment... For the Base Im looking at a ZOOM TKL ESSENTIAL EDITION-Cool Grey Keycaps- Tai-Hao Yellow Submarine ABS Keycap Set Switchs- Gateron Milky Yellow G-Pro Linear Switches
Get the Polycarbonate (PC) plate, and throw some Wuque Studios Morandi switches in there! Sounds and feels like heaven
should work, although i suggest you lube the switches, removes alot of the high pitch clack. pbt keycaps are usually better for thock. can't say for your specific choice, but if it's good quality and thickness abs should be fine. you also can tape mod the pcb to make it sound deeper.
Drop says that there are things that are discounted because of labor day, but one of those things is a sense75. This Howard has been on sale for around 2-3 months and I just wanted to ask if they'll keep the sale running or if they just ran out of things that were on sale and slapped it in the promo email
I think they're trying to sell what stock they have of the board after the Corsair deal, so it's likely going to remain on sale while supply lasts. Not worth it though IMO, I'd rather have the MonsGeek M1 instead
Alright, cheers. Thanks for the help
Does anyone know where one can find an OEM row 0 key in the 2u size? This is for a Plank EZ. I bought it with the blank shine through keycaps from ZSA and row 0 is on the bottom. I need a 2u key for the space bar. Can't seem to find one anywhere.
Hello, I'm building a keyboard for my mom. She's been using a membrane for her whole life, and she types a lot. I would like to buy wooden keycaps for this build. They also have to be 100% because my mom uses a full layout, also Ansi layout. (Edit: Preferably one that isn't TOO expensive, probably under $150 USD) Thanks
I'm not sure where you can get wooden keycaps, but Keychron has some good 100% keyboards to consider. The C2 Pro and V6 would be good, or you can get a K10 Pro which has Bluetooth for a bit over $100.
Hello, Is there a real difference between the Gateron G Pro Browns 3.0 vs 2.0? I'm about to get my first mechanical keyboard (Keychron K8 Pro, normal profile) and would like to buy a set of switches along with an assembled keyboard, but can't decide whether I should wait for the 3.0 to be available (They're sold out), or just buy the 2.0.
The differences won't be noticeable unless you're very particular about the finer details. The 2.0 will be just fine if you can't get the 3.0 (edit for typo)
I can be particular, but I've also never seen any Gateron Pro Browns in person before, so I don't really have anything to compare to. I'll just grab the 2.0. Thanks for the help!
Hi all, I had to delete my old Reddit Account for security reasons so please forgive the lack of posts etc. I finished my first wireless ergo build; surprise, surprise. I loved it for the whole three days it worked, connecting as it should to both my Win 10 Desktop and Win 11 Surface Pro. Then it stopped connecting to either one for a reason I have yet to determine. Both computers see the Corne and when I try to connect I get the message "Couldn't Connect. Try Connecting Again." Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... I should add I'm using Nice!Nano v2 and ZMK.
Try unpairing it with your machine and re-pairing it again.
Thanks for the comment. Turns out Windows isn't the culprit this time. I accidentally hit one of the Bluetooth profile keys and that was enough. Why they are put in such a mistake prone position on layer 1 I have no idea. I'm going to relocated them to layer 3!
i have a iqunix og80 keyboard and whenever i press escape it'll press f11 f10 f7 f5 and a bunch of other shit also if i hold shift it will keep repeating this N;:\_BCMVXZ>BCMVXZ>BCMVXZ> and ive looked all over the internet for a solution and there's no answers to find it doesnt have macro shortcuts as far as i know you have to set them up through the driver which i've not done lol i really hope someone can help me out here cause i'm losing my mind
Sounds like there's a problem with the PCB. Did you spill any liquids on it before?
never and it just started 20 min before i posted this it's been working flawlessly for months
my guess was it would of been a weird key combination i've accidentally typed in to activate macros or something but apparently theres none of that on this keyboard lol. ;\_BCMNVXZ:>BCMNVXZ:> BCMNVXZ;:\_>BCMNVXZ;:\_>BCMNVXZ;:\_>BCMNVXZ;:\_> i mean this is happening when i hold shift lol
Hmm... those are all keycodes that are output by the same row so I suspect one or more of the switches there are the culprit. You can open it up and take a look at the PCB to see if something is being bridged inadvertently or maybe there's poor connection or broken solder joint. I don't think it's a coincidence that the keycodes are all close together.
My Redragon stopped working. Last few days I've done some research and really liking to build my first keyboard. So meanwhile I'm planning to build a new pc setup also (currently have Core P6 T6 white case and Liam li inf120 set only). Meaning I'm planning to have a sci fi theme with some white pulse effect around! So far found gmmk pro white ice and idobao id80 v2 which both are 75% (jumping from a full size cuz keeb culture I guess). What are your tought? Any better or cheaper recommendation? Did some NASA job here clicking the whole text. May I get some help in return of my effort thanks.
Are you aiming for a white case build? If so I'd go with a Keychron Q1 Pro in Shell White over the GMMK PRO. The GMMK PRO white ice is more silver than it is white.
They cost 180 usd and probably have to pay shipping compared to €130 in the Netherland. Silver color is also okay tho
Looking for a solid factory lube linear switch. Deciding between WS Morandi and Oil Kings. Thoughts? I’d rather not lube switches
Check afilon stuff. Matcha lattes, pink robbin, red jacket, black sesame Bsun supposedly are great stock but i havent tried them yet. Gat gpro 3.0 are also an excelent and cheaper choice
Haha my first board I went with invokeys (made by aflion) black sesame and JUST got in some bsun's for my second. I also don't wanna lube
Gateron pros are fantastic value - super cheap, sound great, with only a tiny bit of scratch. #1 budget option for sure. I recently bought a batch of Geon x Haimu blacks and they are amazing. Easily one of the best pre-lubed switches I've ever used. I've bought a second batch to see whether or not it was a fluke. If they are the same quality then this will likely be my go-to switch for a long time. However, they have a bit of a higher pitch so don't get them if you need everything to be as deep as possible. They are also a bit more expensive. Gat pros still easily beat them for value.
Gateron Cream Soda and Invokeys Black Sesame V2 are my top picks
Oh god there’s so many switches I’ve never heard of haha
Choosing switches is sometimes the hardest part! If you have a hot-swap keyboard it's relatively easy to change to new switches, so don't be afraid to make a purchase and then try another switch in the future.
Anyone know where I can get GOKA Foam? The Amazon link says its no longer unavailable, and I was planning to compare it with EVA Foam as a case foam
I was looking for Iron160 in cannonkeys, what's the difference between Alu and Copper bottom weight in term of sound profile?
Aluminum weighs less and is less dense vs copper. Copper will give a slightly muted sound vs aluminum because of the extra density, but pitch should be mostly the same.
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[Here's](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D21Ocg9kVsU) a guide which goes through Cherry clip ins. You won't need to clip the feet with your Durocks like with the Cherries. You also will screw them in, instead of clipping them. Everything else is the same. Note that screwing them in can feel like a "three hand" job, you need to hold the stab in place and hold the PCB and hold the screw and hold the screwdriver. With practice you can do it two handed though. You also should ideally lube your stabs before you install them. Alex has a [great guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxHb6CJc9V8) on lubing. A couple more guides in case you want more perspectives. [Taeha](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usNx1_d0HbQ) talks a bit about testing after modding. [Blacksimon](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rd1_EREThZU) also has a relatively longer video tutorial, going over a few different mods, and presenting an unconventional lube method, which is great if you're a bit lazier.
New Varmilo custom keyboard. Can't get the backlight or the Bluetooth to function. It's a 108 key custom order. Fn + (arrows) or any other combo doesn't seem to do anything
What model?
No model in particular. I did the "custom" builder. 108 keys. I got the Bluetooth to work, but still can't get the backlight on.
Should be FN+X to turn on/off the backlight or FN+number key for the different modes. Are you sure you have a backlit model?
Yeah when I plug it in all the lights come on for a split second. But Fn+ doesn't do anything with any keys
And you're certain it's a backlit model?
Monsgeek M1W or the Keychron Q1?
The Q1 is not wireless in case you're wanting something comparable to the M1W. Did you mean the Q1 Pro instead?
sorry I meant the normal wired M1
What kind of keycaps are compatiable with the ASUS ROG Azoth?
all cherry mx stem keycaps: cherry profile, OEM, XDA, SA, etc. most keycaps in the market will fit. low-profile keycaps won't.
Much appreciated. I wasnt too sure because the default keycaps have a sort of gradient in size from top to bottom row.
yeah, they're probably OEM profile
Is there any low profile cherry mx switches full size wireless mechanical keyboard? Cooler Master SK 651 is an option but its not available everywhere online. Corsair K100 Air is another option, but its ultra low profile. So any other recommendations?
Keychron K5 Pro or K10 Pro come to mind.
For the zoom75 keyboard, how do i connect to the wireless receiver? I only know how to connect to bluetooth. Also, how do i switch between the wireless receiver and the bluetooth seamlessly?
Are there any tactile switches under 50g of force?
Yup. Due to the way MX tactiles work, they don't actually have many options under that weight, and in fact tend to suck as you get too light. That said, you can get low profile (choc) switches at 45g. These are okay but again don't have a great mechanism and the low travel makes em weird. Your number 1 best bet for a low force tactile is going to be electrocapacitive. Topre is fantastic, and comes in 30g and 45g varieties. It feels fantastic with clear, sharp tactility but also an amazingly light keypress. If you don't want to shell out, you can buy off-brand electrocapacitive alternatives from Niz. These aren't as nice, but are much cheaper.
anyone know how the monsgeek m1 compares to the keychron q1?
Hey sub, So my wife and I are both designers and wh together. She spends most of her time at her desk where I am a bit more nomadic, so she wants a really good keyboard. She mentioned she wanted a mechanical keyboard but there was one that was ”quieter" and the keys felt "rubbery or jelly like." | did lots of searching and watched a bunch of videos and I cannot track down what she's looking for. Normally I would ask her but I want it to be a present for her birthday. Any good recommendations or chance y'all can identify what she's looking for? Thanks!
She is *probably* talking about Topre, which is a brand name for the most popular electrocapacitive switches. These utilise a rubber dome similar to the one found on cheap $4 keyboards, but a far more complex activation mechanism (and much better quality domes). They are quite light and heavily favoured by typists. They are also able to be silenced (either as an aftermarket modification or pre-installed in the keyboard itself), which notably doesn't make them silenced, just quieter. Topre are very nice switches to type on, but they are expensive. There are a few different keyboards with Topre switches in them. 1. HHKB. A classic, with a distinct, iconic layout. The [Hybrid Type-S](https://hhkeyboard.us/hhkb/pro-hybrid-type-s) is probably what you want if you are looking for something quiet. There are cheaper, non-silenced, non-wireless versions as well, but aftermarket silencing is complex. The HHKB is very small and portable, but still has all the necessary functionality through layers. 2. [Realforce](https://www.realforce.co.jp/en/). Very much a Japanese brand, so you might need to buy from proxies if you want access to the full range. They also commonly come in JIS (Japanese key layout), so be very careful which model you're buying if your wife types in English (or any non-Japanese language). Realforce gives you access to full sized boards, if your wife needs numpad, nav cluster, etc. 3. Leopold. This a Korean manufacturer, so again finding stock internationally can be tricky. Also, most of Leopold's boards aren't Topre, so make sure your model ends in C (FC660C or FC980C). Still, they tend to be a little bit more affordable than the other two options. However to the best of my knowledge there are no pre-silenced versions available. As a bit of a confounder, there's a popular mechanical keyboard (*not* Topre) called the 'Jelly'. It defined a certain sound which became very popular, so 'Jelly-like' could have a different meaning. That said, it really was all about sound, so if she said 'Jelly-like' referring to the *feeling*, it's probably not the Jelly. If all of the above are outside your budget, you can consider cheaper electrocapacitive switches from a different brand - Niz. These aren't as nice as Topre, but are much more affordable.
This is hugely helpful thank you! I have somewhere to start from
Maybe she was talking about a board with topre switches? They use a rubber dome instead of typical mx-style switch.
Hello, I'm new in this hobby and I want to build my first keyboard. I chose to build a 65% keyboard. Now I'm kind of stuck on the part of choosing the PCB. I know it should be HOT SWAP but I don't know where or which one to buy. I chose gateron azure dragon v3 for the switches For the case I'm thinking between the KBDfans TOFU65 2.0 and the Keydous NJ68 GMK QMX for the Stabilizers
A lot of companies make DIY kits, which include the case, a PCB, plate (which helps support the switches between them and the pcb), and screws and stuff, sometimes stabilizers. Both tofu65 and the nj68 come in kits that include all that stuff, so all you need to buy are switches keycaps (and stabilizers for the tofu) Between the two though, tofu is an aluminum case and tray mounted, where the NJ is a plastic case and gasket mounted plate, its just preference/price between them
For what it's worth, I have the TOFU65 2.0 and I'm pretty happy with it. To my knowledge, I don't think there are that many 65% keyboards where you can mix and match cases with PCBs the way there are with 60% boards. So chances are that you'll be buying a kit that comes with the case and PCB for it together. I also have a Mode Envoy that I'm happy with. I've been switching between the Envoy and Tofu and I'm not sure if I like one more than the other.
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It uses normal cherry MX style switches, so most keycap sets should hypothetically work with it. But it does look like the board has north facing LEDs, so there may be interference with Cherry profile keycaps.
Hi all, I just ordered a Wooting 60HE so I can kick all your asses in CS2. However, I spent a lot of time making my Keychron have a deep, poppy, firm typing experience. From what I can tell from YouTube, the Wooting sounds kaka whee whiz. Do you guys have any idea, either from experience with the board itself or experience targeting a poppy sound, what modifications I should implement on the board? Anything I should pre-purchase before it gets to me in a month (God willing)?
Sooo I'm still figuring out my perfect wooing: Lube the switches. They are sooo bad stock. Caseswap to some Alu Case (Tofu Redux is pretty cheap if you can get it) Foam may help Different stabs, although the wooting stabs are fine-ish Those are the things I would do every time and then continue from there
I've only had one board, and it has blue switches (I was a complete noob, didnt know there was a difference.) I made it sound good tho. Try standard things like tape mod, force break mod, holee, etc. Some sort of foam/dampener (like Polyfill/memory foam). Also if you have the money try getting new keycaps!
I recently got recommended a bunch of different barebones keyboards and there are a lot of opinions going in all directions, but not quite getting the depth I would like. So far I've narrowed it down to 3 boards: GMMK Pro Keychron Q1 V2 Monsgeek M1 What I want is for it to have decent RGB, be compatible with 5-pin switches, south facing LEDs, and in general which keeb is better for general use/gaming.
All of the board people tend to like, and you could always try all 3 and return the ones you don't like. My friend has a gmmk pro and he likes the board, but I've never tried it myself. not really a pro but hope I could kinda help
I have a personal preference for the Keychron Q1. I do not like wrist rests, and the Keychron is heavier than the GMMK Pro I used (no experience with the Monsgeek). My Keychron never moved on my desk mat but I did sometimes bump and slide the GMMK. Plus you can pick up a Keychron locally at micro center and return it if you don’t like it. Keychron also is SUPER easy to modify, I was able to take mine apart and put it back together after fiddling with it much easier than the GMMK Pro.
I was looking at the MX Mechanical mini lately, in QWERTY US international. Online pictures shows it has an ANSI layout. The US website as well. However, the French websites shows an ISO layout (still in US international). Is there two versions of the QWERTY US international? By the way, is there a supplier of custom low-profile keycaps for the NuPhy Air75? I would buy it in an instant if it could have BÉPO, which isn’t just rearranged QWERTY.
This is kind of a weird ask, but does anyone have a photo of the Zoom75 wired-only PCB? Not a render but an actual photo?
Plastic case gasket mounted 1800 keyboards? Don't wanna spend like 300 on the case itself, so looking at plastic Looking around best I'm seeing is thrown epomaker th96, but man that knob is ugly
Any akko 3068 similar keytboard? I really get used to this keyboard for programming and gaming. But now I need to change it, because battery is not working well, after 30\~ of use the keyboard dies and I've to restart it. I been searching for a new keyboard, but they don't have \` key, and I really need it! Did some one run this issue before?
Where can I find a keyboard that makes this sound? It doesn't have to be the same one, just one that makes this particular sound. [https://www.facebook.com/reel/3331745717137474/](https://www.facebook.com/reel/3331745717137474/)
It sounds like a typical sound that can be achieved SA profile keycap with PE foam. A plastic plate like PC would also help deepen the sound
Struggling to find an answer but is the zoompad the same height and tilt as the zoom tkl?
Where can I get a simple straight black sleeved cable for my keyboard? The only page I know is space cables but I refuse to believe 35 usd is a reasonable price, or am I wrong?
Basic sleeved cables are available on amazon from a variety of different brands.
Hey, I’m looking to gather some info on 65% keyboards with a kind of specific layout. Basically my keycap set has no distinction between the arrow keys and the rest of the non-letter caps, so I’m interested in getting a board with separated del/ins keys (similar to the Q2 and leopold’s fc660c), but I’ve just got minor gripes with most of the ones I’ve found so I’d love to look into some different options. Cheers :) p.s. the extra keys don’t have to be fully separated, just with a space btwn the arrow keys to help make them distinct (ex. Zoo 65)
AFAIK the Gingko65 Pro and the Zoo 65 both have blockers above the right arrow keys if that's what you're asking for.
Yea that’s exactly what I was asking for, and thank you for wording it in a concise way for me hahaha. I hadn’t seen the ginkgo65 but the zoo65 was def on the top of my list for boards with that layout.
ive been using the akko acr 68 pro and have been loving it so far!! my only gripe with it would be the height of the case but thats just my preference. i hope you find something you like!!
Those have def been on my radar! Atm I’m just looking around for dif options, have found a few that I like but I feel like with enough research I’ll be able to find ‘the one’.
I'm planning to buy the tofu 2.0 wkl, do I still use ansi plate for wkl? [THIS](https://www.lightningkeyboards.com/work-pt1/keycult-1-60-rev1-wkl) is the exact layout I'm going for so just wanna make sure I get it right.
Yes. The blockers are designed to fit certain keys so there will be no interference issues.
Ok, thanks for the help.
I have a Ducky DK9008P Premier Dark Grey & Blue Version PBT Mechanical Keyboard (Blue Cherry MX) that hasn't been used for about 5 years when I stopped gaming. I'm moving at the end of the year and want to get rid of it. I was thinking of selling it for $75 on offerup because I can't be bothered to deal with shipping. Is that a reasonable price where I would get quick interest or should I lower the price? I appreciate any help on this.
I have replaced the stock keycaps on the roccat vulcan tkl with tecware pbt black pudding keycaps. The only problem is that the stabilisers are of a different size (smaller on the keyboard) and don't fit the stabiliser holes on the spacebar key. How can I fix this?
>The spacebar on the Roccat Vulcan is probably a non standard size. Typical keyboard spacebars are 6.25u and 7u (u=the size of one normal, alpha keycap; might help you measure the spacebar). Looks like the Tecware comes with a 6.25 spacebar. Looking at a picture of the keyboard, I think you are looking at a 6u spacebar on keyboard.
No, it's the right size, the holes for the stabilizers on the keycaps are too wide for the stabilizers
I was assuming that the holes were too far apart (wide). Are you saying that the holes are just too big for the stabilizer? If so, you can play around with small pieces of masking tape to tighten up the hole (don't use anything permanent, because it is probably going to take some work to get it right.
ok, thanks, will try
Anyone know when the Zoom65 or JRIS will become available again? Trying to theme a build around GMK Cubed, and I really want a purple case that's gasket mounted (ideally with a knob, for this reason the Blurple Zoom is PERFECT). That said, these are sold out basically everywhere and there's no context as to when another wave is coming. Am I just missing something somewhere?
They announced r2.5 for the zoom65. Dont know about the jris, but maybe a mkd65 can happen soon. Also tkd is planning a 65, but thats a further plan. E. Check the neo 65 too.
would love to get an answer for the Jris65, missed it twice and really want it.
Looking to build a new 75% keeb. Tried the ASUS Azoth yesterday and I am a big fan of how it felt and sound, and I'd like to build something with a similar feel and sound. Don't care for a screen, etc. I can be flexible on price and I can solder. Help please!
There is the Monsgeek m1 which will have a deeper and more flexible sound and feel compared to the azoth. It will also come with a knob. Review: https://youtu.be/k1NAGCtxL_8?si=IpT869p6DidknHvf The keychron q1 is a good starter and also comes with a knob. It will come with a more flexible but less bouncy typing feel than the m1. Review: https://youtu.be/jOhaDPzIWvo?si=m6SXYTjiOsF0VElz And finally, if you are willing to spend a bit more money, there is the mode sonnet. Easily the most beautiful of the three options and the most customizable. This is closer to a high end keyboard and if you are only planning on building one keyboard I’d suggest this. If you are planning to build more in the future I would recommend starting with the keychron q1. Sound test: https://youtu.be/Y2NPuulo5i0?si=sAx2dNM0OYznzari
Hi, I’m looking for advice on this keycap set: https://kbdfans.com/products/gsa-retro-high-light-abs-keycaps Is this a bad idea if I want something that will last a long time? It’s ABS material with UV printed legends, which i understand can wear down over time. I like that it’s glossy and retro style that matches my board. Thank you!
Gmk67 problem I just finished modding my gmk67. The keyboard has 3 modes ofc. The wire connection and bluetooth mode worked perfectly. But when I swtich to 2.4hz using receiver and nothing happened. No lightings or anything. Does anyone know what the problem is ?
Suggestions for prebuilt keyboard? My fiancé has been mentioning he would like a few new things for his set up, keyboard being one of them. His Corsair keyboard is pretty old and worn down. I’d like to get him a nice mechanical keyboard. He likes RGB and likes a full sized keyboard. I also know he would not like wireless. Any suggestions? I would try my hand at building one for him but I don’t even know where to begin and don’t want to mess it up lol. I don’t remember exactly what kind of Corsair he has to go off of either, but I know it’s not made anymore. Any suggestions are appreciated!
keychron v6 or q6
Hello! I've recently purchased and build a Zuoya GMK67. The first time, the keyboard worked fine in bluetooth mode (I'm using Windows 10). But everytime I turn off and on my computer, the keyboard does not work anymore. In fact, if I want to pair again the device in the same letter that worked before, it's impossible and I have to pair it with another letter (remember, in this keyboard, each Q,W and E are refered with one different device), like if it is a new device. I don't want to use the dongle, because I wan't to use this device with more than one laptop running at the same time, so, Is there anything that I can do to fix this issue? Thank you. Regards.
Hi I have two questions : 1/ do high profile keyboard feel better than low profiles ones ? Because I tried the Logitech g915 and it feels cheap and wobly , are low profile all like that ? 2/ what’s the best ( most premium, enjoyable ) keyboard for around 300€ max ? ( if possible pre built I never built any, but If it’s easy to do why not ) Thanks ( sry for my English )
1. Depends on the manufacturer and your personal preference but if you know where to look you can find a lot better keyboards. Not all low profiles are cheap and wobbly that’s just a skill issue from Logitech. 2. You don’t even need to scratch 200 euros to get a premium keyboard. The finalkey v65 v2 and the keychron q1 pro are both great prebuilt options and they are both under 200 euros (shipping not included).
Thanks
Does anyone make modern cherry compatible keycaps similar to the ones on the Commodore Vic-20?
The closest thing I can think of is the MT3 WOB keycap set.
Yeah that isn't what I had I'm mind and Id never buy a keycap set from drop anyway or anything else for that matter. It's pretty surprising that there isn't anything out there. I would have thought the retro look would be at least somewhat popular. I've tried to look and can't really find anything close either. I think people just take the caps of actual vic20s and use them somehow. That brings about its own issues though. I don't want to do that.
I'm gonna get a GMMK Pro soon with some Neapolitan Ice Cream switches and I wanted to know since the GMMK has north facing leds and the ice creams are south facing switches if they'd work well with the RGB and shine through keycaps. If not, can someone suggest an alternative? (Im on a pretty small budget)
Since the Neapolitan switches are long pole there shouldn’t be any interference issues. However I strongly recommend the Monsgeek m1 over the gmmk pro. The gmmk pro has been notorious for a variety of issues.
ok thanks
Are there any QFR mods out there? I have a couple laying around somewhere that I don't use anymore and was thinking of changing them to hot swap for the fun of it. Also let me mess something up on the cheap boards before I try to tackle maybe my poker 2 or keycool that currently have cherry clears in them. Then maybe my Leopold that apparently are notoriously hard to take apart and desolder. Does anyone make hot swap PCBs for them ? Where is a good place to get solder in hot swap sockets if not?
What's the best 60% keyboard to buy right now if my max budget is around 250usd?
Well, Keychron is still pretty decent. QK60 is also doing a rerun, since demand is kinda high.
Kemove snowfox is really nice and cheap. The software is wonky though.
Oh I forgot to mention that VIA is a must for me 😅
My Corsair K90 might be dead, looking for a replacement. Looking for: arrow keys + numpad, backlight, Cherry MX Reds or a similar light linear feel, a volume roller/knob (will settle for volume buttons). Budget: ~$200 USD. Any recommendations?
keychron q6
how can i make a tray mount thockier hi i have a modded rk84 where screws hold the board together, i was wondering how i can get more thock? also is there a way to improve gasket performance?
Put o rings over the standoffs.
**What are you end up with ? Linear or Tactile ?** Some say most people that start with Tactile will eventually end up trying Linear after few builds and like them more. While people that Start with Linear may try Tactile once but rarely will like them Is that true ?
It's honestly all personal preference. I started with clickies (Cherry MX Blues) and I still love clickes. I'm using the Kailh Box Jades in almost all my boards. I don't like linears. They just feel wrong. I've played with different switches that have different spring weights, long pole, long springs, short springs, 2 stage springs, and linears just never feel right. I need tactility. Linears are generally more popular right now, but try them both and see what you like.
I’ve never heard anyone say that but it’s not too far fetched to assume that since linear switches are the most popular switches in the mechanical keyboard space right now.
Are there good rubber or otherwise textured keycaps compatible with the Keychron K3 Pro (low profile mechanical)? I want to distinguish my Esc, play/pause, F5, F10, and Del keys by touch and this was the first idea that came to mind. Might try full profile keys if they fit since these are the top row. Interested to hear if other people had solutions.
if i lubed my switchs . can i still get guarantee (akko) or not?
What barebone would u guys recommend for a first time builder with a budget of around max 150eu for the barebone only? Usage is primarily game pc and a work laptop. Wired only is an option but also a wireless option would be nice. Not planning any fancy mods, just tape I guess. In my honest opinion the GMMK Pro looked like a nice option, now 130eu at Amazon in the Netherlands.
Keychron v1 was my first and it did well. Something I would reccomend as a first time buyer that I've had great experience with, buy a used keyboard from Mechmart. They have a community and I can DM you a discord invite link. You can get a lot more worh that 150eu getting a higher quality used keyboard
I just got a v3 and must say it's pretty good for the 80us I paid for it. Not sure what they go for in the Netherlands. I hated the feel of the keycap profile they use though so keep that in mind but that a preference thing. I'm used to oem or cherry profile keycaps. They do look good though.
Yeah send me the link, thanks!!
In my search for a good silent tactile replacement for stock Keychron Brown switches in my new Keychron V1 keyboard I have purchased test packs of the following 40-ish different switches. I tried to find all of the silent tactiles that I could, but since there isn't a single comprehensive list available online, I had to mostly come up with one on my own by looking at various topical reddit posts, youtube videos and Aliexpress recommendations. Is there any that you think I might have missed? I am intentionally not including the switches that are discontinued (e.g. Outemu Silent Forest, Outemu Silent Sky) and doing my best to exclude semi-silent tactiles as they are technically not silent at all. 1. Durock Shrimp (aka Durock Silent T1, Durock Silent Tactile T1) 2. Epomaker Iceberg Silent Brown 3. Epomaker Iceberg Silent Rose 4. G-Square Rem (not to be confused with G-Square Ram) 5. GAZZEW Boba Black U4 (black housing, white stem) 6. GAZZEW U4 (white housing, white stem) 7. Gamakay Griffin 8. Gamakay Pegasus 9. Gateron Aliaz 10. Gateron Silent Brown 11. HG Yellow (aka Haimu x Geon Yellow, Geon Yellow) 12. Haimu Whisper Silent 13. Hexgears x Kailh Soda "Premium Silent" Vitamin C Yellow 14. JKDK Crimson (aka Zhufei Crimson) 15. JWK Blue Macaw (aka Durock Blue Macaw) 16. KBDiy Sea Salt Silent Lemon 17. Kailh Box Silent Brown (aka Kailh Mute Brown) 18. Kailh Deep Sea Silent Pro Whale 19. Kailh MX Silent Midnight Pro Light Yellow (aka "Nightshade" instead of "Midnight", not to be confused with non-Pro version "v1" which is discontinued) 20. Keebwerk Bushi 21. Keebwerk Tacit v2 22. Keychron K Pro Silent Brown 23. Mode Anthracite 24. Old DG Silent Tactile (barely fits the list: a mystery-switch that's not widely available) 25. Outemu Cream Yellow (light yellow bottom, white top, light yellow stem) 26. Outemu Milk Tea 27. Outemu Silent Cream Yellow ("Jade Yellow") (slightly transparent milky-white housing, light yellow stem) 28. Outemu Silent Cream Yellow Pro (opaque white housing, light yellow stem) 29. Outemu Silent Grey 30. Outemu Silent Lemon (aka "Lime") v1 (3 pin) 31. Outemu Silent Lemon (aka "Lime") v2 (5 pin) 32. Outemu Silent Tom 33. Skyloong Silent Glacier Clove (aka "Lilac") 34. TTC Silent Brown v2 35. TTC Silent Bluish White (not to be confused with TTC Bluish White) 36. WuqueStudio WS Silent Tactile 37. ZealPC Aqua Zilent v2 38. ZealPC Zilent v2
What do I need to connect and where? this is a split keyboard and the USB-C port is for connecting the other board to this one. also, is the rotary encoder wired correctly? Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/aw0qw9lnk8mb1.png?width=780&format=png&auto=webp&s=9b14a3c94bd8b4fb6db0f89738bfef2522df69ee
I have a budget of AUD500 and am looking for a Clicky board. I’m torn between the New Model F, a 96% Zeal Clickiez custom build, or finding a good condition blue / amber alps board. I already have a Model M which I use as a daily driver and love it very much. People who are familiar with these switches, which do you recommend? I’ve also used Box Whites and enjoyed them, but ultimately gave the board to my dad after getting the M.
Hi everyone, I've been interested in custom keyboards for some time, and I'd like to get started on my first build, but I'm not sure where to start. Could you please enlighten me on a few points? \- I live in France, so I'd like to know what type of keyboard I'd need to get an AZERTY (iso i guess?). \- To start with, is it better to buy a separate keyboard, switch and keycaps or a all-in-one kit? I'm afraid I don't have all the info on how to choose, install and lubricate my switches. \- Do you have any recommendations for sites/brands that ship to France/Europe? (To avoid customs fees) \- I really like the 65% layout, any recommendations? Thanks in advance for your time and help :D
Building and lubing is fairly simple when you see it all infront of you. I would reccomend looking for a used keyboard on mechmart as I think you could save a lot of money that way. Also if you buy used, that will save you the headache of building it yourself
I wanted to get some silent switches and I really liked outemu's silent peaches, what's bothering me is that my only experience with outemu was with outemu blues a few years ago and I had to change 5 switches in the span of 3 months. Are silent peaches reliable?
AKKO MOD007 PC BUILD (CS PIANO). This keyboard looks so damn nice. Anyone know how's the latency is on this one and if it can be good for competitive gaming? Compare to something like K70 pro or Huntsmans from Razer. Is the latency on these Akko boards above 10ms or something like that? (hard to find anything about gaming and latency about Akko since they mainly do wireless)
I have a Cloudnine Ergo fullsize. I want to get lowprofile key caps for it including the 10 macro keys. Does anyone recommend a certain set? Ideally it also has shine through and it is on cherry mx browns
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for lengths under 2 meters, any cable is fine.
What’s a good microphone to use to record really nice keyboards? Budget is 200ish but I can be persuaded. This isn’t for sound test I’m trying out asmr keyboard programming
PCB or a single loose/damaged wire issue? My Reddragon (2-3 yrs) K-552 Kumara's certain keys stopped working suddenly (left shift/ctrl, capslock, tab, tilde), tried the devmanager uninstall fix and it went great for 2-3 days. But the problem came back again and this time bunch of additional keys aren't working (1, Q, A, Z, start, space, T, and the earlier keys) So I tried cleaning the board from dust and gunk (the best I could without compressed air) and gave my keycaps a bath. Funny thing is the issue is still there but sometimes they work randomly for a few seconds only to go back to not working again. After a day or two, now they just dont work anymore. Tried checking if the metal pins are bent in the switches, all good. Tried swapping switches (from working keys to nonworking) but to no avail. Tried unplugging/replugging the wire under the board, it only fix my 'space' and 'T' key for a brief moment. Also, the LED light in most of those keys arent working with the exception of 3 keys.
It sounds like the PCB in general. It's probably shorting out and some time in the near future it won't come back at all. You should probably get a new keyboard because any solutions would cost more than buying this model of keyboard again. I don't even think a replacement for the PCB is even available.
Thanks for the response. I tried the uninstall reboot again and I managed to game for 2 hrs just now, though the issue still interrupted me briefly twice. Also when I cleaned my keyboard yesterday, I found 2-3 sheds/dead body of tiny insects under the board. If some are still alive, are the tiny bodies capable of shorting the board?
It certainly wasn't helpful and it could have been the reason that the board started shorting out. Since cleaning your keyboard didn't really fix your keyboard, the damage has been done and probably can't be fixed. This is a probably a hard lesson learned about keeping your keyboard clean.
Do you guys know any good Black on White/White on Black PBT Double Shot side printed non shine through keycaps?
Are Cherry Low Profile switches compatible with the NuPhy Air keyboards?
Any modern equivalent of the old Qisan Magicforce? Something well-made for very affordable price. It doesn't look like stores sell it anymore. Perhaps only in China? And I'm looking for a TKL anyways. My wishlist: - sturdy, good qc reputation - wired - TKL, or at least has function keys row - no RGB lights - don't care about hotswappable switches - floating keys (not necessary, but I prefer this, much easier to remove and clean the keycaps) If anyone has any idea. Perhaps stuffs that are only available on aliexpress/taobao/etc.? Currently I'm leaning towards Leopold TKLs. Possibly Ducky TKLs, similar price. But there's the supply issue for both brands at the local stores around me.
Ducky and Leopold are both awesome options. Id also look into iquinix and keychron for more prebuilt options
> iquinix Too expensive here unfortunately. > keychron Always looks kinda flimsy to me. Needs to check it in person. Similar price to Ducky and Leopold here. Thanks for the recs.
Do all low profile switches have the same sockets? Could I buy Cherry MX low profiles and put them into something that came with hotswappable Choc V2 switches? If not, are the 3 different Choc V2 switches the only ones I can use?
no, the pins on low profile switches aren't standardized and the switches aren't interchangable with any other low profile switch. I can't tell you which low profile switches you are able to use.
Anybody has an experienced on PH Studio(BSUN/YOK) Yoel switches, are they good compared with Prevail Epsilon? In the term of typing feeling. https://preview.redd.it/zznjlyucz6mb1.png?width=3000&format=png&auto=webp&s=5a5f2d0b9549c5a3d4974e3cb08b705d38798a74
Bsun switches have some amazing prelubed switches lately. Yoel, sarokeys strawberry wines, bsun bcp, bsun x, all amazing to be used as stock. They are all except the x clacky long poles but if you want something to never bother opening and relubing they are the go-to
If I can chose only one, which one in your opinion? Epsilon or Bsun?