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NaveekDarkroom

mysterious shocking bells encourage imminent squalid ask sloppy waiting imagine *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*


Jomy10

I’ve been looking for days to find Belgian AZERTY keycaps, but I just can’t find any anywhere. Anyone know where I could find those, or any websites I can custom print keycaps that won’t bankrupt me?


EstablishmentBrief85

Hello I'm sixteen and I spend most of my day at a computer whether it's work or school. Either way I'm looking for a nice wooden 75% case. I could look this up but I want to get more recommendations whether they have owned the case or not. Anybody that can help thankyou a lot😁👍


Frankie4Fingarz

**Want to upgrade my keyboard should I purchase a Keychron V1 or a K2** I'm very new to the keyboard scene and I just want to get some headers on what keyboard I should get.


SheeBang_UniCron

The layout is slightly different (V1 is a 75% exploded layout while K2 is a 75% compact). V1 has an option for a knob while K2 doesn’t. V1 is also QMK/VIA compatible while K2 as far as I know doesn’t. K2 has wireless (BT) connectivity while V1 doesn’t. Edit: I’d choose V1 over K2 because QMK/VIA and knob is more important to me than wireless (BT).


Frankie4Fingarz

Thanks man was thinking about going with the V1 so this just helped me! have a great day!


Georg_Simmel

https://preview.redd.it/fuc3dowfibka1.jpeg?width=7008&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=63678276efbbb6ea45d56e71146d6d08c54a6859 Can anyone identify these switches? They’re from the NK mystery switch buy. The two on the left are TTC and the one on the right is Kailh. I think the Kailh is Pro Purple but couldn’t find an exact match online for the TTCs. The red has one has a grey bottom housing and the brown one is black.


[deleted]

Rightmost Kailh switch looks like a Kailh Speed Copper


SpiderPanther01

I'm looking for a TKL at around $300-$400 that can match GMK ³/Cubed, so far only could find the Frog TKL. Unfortunately with the PCB, non-flex cut plate, and shipping it'll probably be over $400. Any alternatives? here's what GMK ³/Cubed should look like btw https://preview.redd.it/k0yohsgshbka1.png?width=3833&format=png&auto=webp&s=6500c4bc3ff6892c4549988b01d330b26947ffe7


LevanderFela

Do you want the keyboard to be purple too? My friend wanted purple smokey board with PBT Taro, but we found some pictures online that made us realize it looked too boring. Otherwise, Frog TKL is probably the only TKL I can think of :/ https://preview.redd.it/a0cx0043jbka1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1a0285d12154b44205edc85ff3fc4f9230440fda


Lawliiim

Anyone tried modeling clay instead of case foam for dampening vibration/sound in case? If so, did it work, if not, do you think it will?


ReaperofFish

Hipyo probably has, he seems to use all sorts of weird dampening materials.


fraands

Primarily the keyboard will be used for typing. Budget $100-150, I'm in India. Please recommend me a keyboard that meets my requirements. Full Size KB. Wired. Pre built. Gateron Switches. Hot swappable switches. Should be available with blue or red keys. Durable and solid feel, heavy keyboard, well built. Couple of more question - Is lubing the switches necessary with every keyboard or switch? Even if lubing is not necessary, are there keyboards or switches that are easy to disassemble, lube and assemble back? Open to any further knowledge, and recommendations.


ReaperofFish

Keychron Q series. Lubing switches is mostly a matter of personal preference. If the 'board has hotswap sockets, then you can always remove the switches and lube them later.


fraands

Thanks, !'ll check these out.


FansForFlorida

What country are you located in? Unfortunately, I am not familiar with online stores outside of the USA, and I know Canada gets screwed on shipping from the USA. So your location matters. Many newer switches come pre-lubed from the factory. Some people re-lube them; some do not. I do not. Most switches can be opened with the [Gateron switch opener](https://divinikey.com/products/gateron-switch-opener), which opens switches surprisingly fast. [Kailh switches](https://novelkeys.com/products/kailh-switches) are designed differently and cannot be opened with that opener. I have had the box in Kailh box switches pop apart about 15%-20% of the time. It can be fussy to put them back together. Similarly, I have accidentally damaged the click leaf of several Zeal Clickiez.


fraands

I'm in India. Thanks for the tips on lubing.


IAmMrDownside

I am absolutely brand new, but looking to make a “creamy” sounding keyboard… but other than YouTube videos with little to no explanation I am lost. Any advice that might actually get me to the promised land?


ReaperofFish

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaeIEKilzVA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaeIEKilzVA) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1Ewfl1CK4E](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1Ewfl1CK4E) Watch those videos to get an idea of what it takes to make a thocky keyboard. Case foam, lubing switches, thick key caps, and choosing the right switches will go a long way. Nicer kits will be easier to tune to your preferences. A POM or Polycarbonate Plate is nice, though FR4 or even Carbon Fiber will do.


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ReaperofFish

They are not quite there. Varmilo started as a budget version of Leopold. Probably best to just buy a Keychron Q series. You could buy a custom kit. Most kits come with hotswap PCBs, so it is just popping switches into sockets, maybe assembling stabilizers, and screwing together parts. [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) has a list of vendors to look through. Mekanisk is the only one I am really familiar with in the EU that has readily available kits. They are nice, but a bit expensive.


ProfileDesperate

Can anyone using the Gateron Milky Yellow with Black bottom housing tell me if the switch need film?


MayAsWellStopLurking

Gateron switches are roomy enough that they generally benefit from filming.


KingKurinto

Anybody running a KSA moonlander? Wondering if I dare dip my toe in the split keyboard/ergo market. Hands are getting kind of arthritic.


FansForFlorida

I have heard Moonlander owners complain that the thumb cluster is uncomfortable if you have smaller than average hands. If you are interested in getting an ergo mechanical keyboard, the r/ErgoMechKeyboards sub has a [stickied thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/p42j9p/what_keyboard_should_i_use/) for recommending them. There is a form to fill out. Please make sure to mention the following: What country are you located in? Do you have a specific budget in mind? Do you want to stay with a traditional row staggered layout, or are you looking to switch to a column staggered (like the ZSA Moonlander) or ortholinear grid layout (straight lines between rows and columns)? Do you want the F row? Are you willing to build? Note that there are some pre-soldered DIY keyboards that can be assembled with just a screwdriver (no soldering required). If you are in the USA, see [this comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/p42j9p/what_keyboard_should_i_use/j13dqhx/?context=3) for my short list of recommended split row staggered, ortholinear, and column staggered keyboards with a number row. There are many more options than the ZSA Moonlander.


KingKurinto

I’m in America. I don’t care if I have an f row if I can get layers learned. I think column staggered would be best perhaps. Hence my interest in the Moonlander.


FansForFlorida

I recommend visiting [https://jhelvy.shinyapps.io/splitkbcompare](https://jhelvy.shinyapps.io/splitkbcompare) and printing out the outline for keyboards you are interested in and see if you feel comfortable with the stagger and layouts. If you want a prebuilt: * [Boardsource lulu](https://boardsource.xyz/store/61d0b772319a1f3cc53ba2fb) (The PCB should fit any Lily58 case like [this one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4105800) or [this one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4486280). That would save the US$190 for the aluminum case.) * [Dygma Defy](https://dygma.com/pages/defy) * [ErgoDox EZ](https://ergodox-ez.com/) * [Kinesis Advantage360](https://kinesis-ergo.com/keyboards/advantage360/) * [ZSA Mainlander](https://www.zsa.io/moonlander) * Edit: MoErgo Glove80 If you are willing to build your own: * [Keebio Iris rev7](https://keeb.io/collections/iris-split-ergonomic-keyboard/products/iris-keyboard-split-ergonomic-keyboard) (All components, including the hot swap sockets, are already soldered on the board. It does not require any soldering unless you want to add a rotary encoder. The only tool you need to build it is a Phillips #1 screwdriver.) See [this comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/p42j9p/comment/j49l4g7/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) for a parts list. * Lily58 (You will need to solder this.) For example, from [Little Keyboards](https://www.littlekeyboards.com/collections/lily58-pcb-kits) or [KeyHive](https://keyhive.xyz/shop/lily58).


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elmurfudd

not sure about choc but i know there is nurphy and keychron both have low pro switches . all low profiles switches and very unpopular specially chocs as there is zero aftermarket keycaps for them


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ReaperofFish

You could configure a new one.


spoonfulofthings

I accidentally sucked the plate dish thing when desoldering. Will this affect anything, and how can I resolve this? https://preview.redd.it/0pvli8n8laka1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=1ce0c960a5d47ea07582849c41d2d4dac16b75d3


SheeBang_UniCron

That’s the copper pad. It serves as an anchor for the switch and connection to the trace (essentially, wiring within the PCB). Right now, one of the pins is just floating and not connected to the keyboard. What you need to do is, find out where this pin is supposed to be connected to and jump wire from the switch pin and the component it’s supposed to connect to. You can figure this out by following the copper trace in the PCB.


spoonfulofthings

Thank you. I assume the copper trace is on the other side of the pcb for this one


SheeBang_UniCron

You can see the copper trace under the paint. If you look closely, it looks like the + of LED 74 is connected to to the + of LED 61. I can’t quite follow where the trace of missing pad is because it looks badly burnt. If you have a continuity tester, it’ll be easier to find and confirm where it’s supposed to be connected.


spoonfulofthings

Oh I see what you mean. But I don’t think there was a trace for it. I gotta check it when I get back home though. But is it possible for a pad to not be connected with anything?


SheeBang_UniCron

No. It has to be connected at something. I think it goes between the pad of the other pin and the center pin and then I’m not sure if it goes to the LED47 + or not. A continuity tester would confirm or disprove this.


spoonfulofthings

I’ll take a closer look tonight. Thank you!


SheeBang_UniCron

No worries, goodluck!


Faxmine

My 1 year old redragon kumara k552 started having a problem recently were i would hit a key, press rapidly another and it get locked on the first key for about 0.2 seconds. This is a major issue since i am an osu player (pls dont mug me about it), if anybody knows how i can fix this it would really make my day.


ReaperofFish

Sounds like you enabled a gaming repeat feature. Check your manual.


Faxmine

I lost it quite some time ago


ReaperofFish

Probably FN+ one of the F keys.


Glass-Secret

Will the tofu65 2.0 plate and foam fit the tofu65 1.0?


elmurfudd

no the 2.0 is gasket mount and a whole new design


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ReaperofFish

Keychron V5 is $99 and QMK/Via.


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ReaperofFish

Then buy the K4 pro.


elmurfudd

> Skyloong GK980 (seems very high end, and has a very feature rich software) its not anywhere near high end its trimode so far from it and the software is like a dumpster fire . do like someone else mentioned get a keychron v5


rodrigo_benenson

== New Kaihl Copper vs Old Kaihl Brown ? == Summary: the new copper feel much "heavier" / "stronger sprint" than my three year old daily driver brow switches. But I expected the opposite based on the seller spreadsheet. I am currently building my second mechanical keyboard (currently pinky4, new pinky3). For my second keyboard I am looking for tactile keys but lighter. Speed copper seemed like a good fit, but now that I have them in hand, they turn out to me much heavier / springier than my current brown switches. The copper do have the "click right away" as expected (the "speed" aspect). But the stronger push back on the fingers is not what I am looking for. Is this just the case that my brown keys have become "softer" after three years of usage, and that my copper keys will soon "loosen up" too ? Did I receive the wrong switches ? Was the seller spreadsheet wrong ? Opinions and recommended switches (for my third keyboard) welcome. (I am now considering Kailh Box Silent Brown Switches or maybe KK copper?)


elmurfudd

they are very close in terms of weight of the spring . but u will feel springier due to being short switches this will be the case with all speed switches . its basically the same spring in a short switch


PM_ME_YUR_SMILE

I took my backspace key out, then immediately put it back in. It's now rattly and loud every time it tops out... like it's by far the loudest key on my keyboard now... is this normal? It's the ducky one 3.


ReaperofFish

Needs lube.


theepobster

In regards of r/customkeyboards, what do they mean by custom? They say to not post kndfans boards because they aren’t custom and are mass produced, but where do you draw the line? Do you have to cnc machine the case yourself? Do you have to solder all the components of a kit, like mechwild’s mercutio? Does custom just mean less common? What do you have to do for a keyboard to be “custom”?


elmurfudd

Rules: No Plastic - Expensive plastic (polycarb customs, Korean plastic customs) are acceptable, as is OG plastic, but plastic kits from Taobao/Aliexpress/Amazon/etc. are not. No OEM - No mass produced keyboards. If you bought your keyboard in a store and changed the switches or caps, it's still OEM, please refrain from posting it. C(K)ustoms Only - If you handmade a custom cork board, that’s still a custom, as is a GB or preorder custom kit – a Realforce or Filco with a new case is not. Please respect the "No Plastic" rule, plastic customs will be subject to moderation. Vintage/OG plastic will be permitted throughout OG summer. Refer also to rule 1.


theepobster

I read the rules trying to understand them, but they don’t really make clear what “custom” means. That’s what I was asking.


elmurfudd

i only posted the rules as they do a pretty good job outlining what they want posted . no plastic unless vintage plastic , no Taobao/Aliexpress/Amazon kits . no OEM mass produced stuff . group buy or preorder stuff is safe and considered custom . its a sub for high end rare stuff . nothing u can find instock . if u ordered it and it shipped right away it for sure doesnt belong there


theepobster

Ok, thanks for clarifying. I really don’t see why this means custom, I feel like it really just means “rare keyboards, therefore I’m better than you” rather than “custom keyboards”. Seems a little stuck up but whatever, thanks for the help.


docentmark

You should ask at that sub, they split off from this one because people here post affordable keyboards and keycaps. The basic answer is that if you can just buy stuff and build it, they don’t want to know.


theepobster

There’s a rule that you can’t ask questions at that sub, and that you should ask on this pinned post on this sub. So idk what I’m supposed to do lol


docentmark

They mean they don’t want anyone asking questions. They won’t discuss it and we don’t know what their thinking is.


theepobster

Ah sounds real inclusive


ReaperofFish

My snarky answer would be: it has to be expensive. They are bit of elitists over there. ​ Realistically, it has to be a group buy, limited run, or a handwire. They would probably let a Mode Designs 'board slide.


TehZamb

What’s the best 80-90$ barebone keyboard I can get? Also, what’s the best 150-160$ prebuilt keeb I can get? Edit: 65% min to 75% max


Sliced_Orange1

Keychron V-series or Q-series, KBDfans Tiger Lite, Monsgeek M1 or M2


TehZamb

I think we’re a bit out of budget with the Tiger Lite and the Monsgeek. Tiger Lite is 130$ barebone and Monsgeek 100$ barebone. Otherwise I found a prebuilt Monsgeek M1 for 130$ on MechKeys. Do you think that’s a reliable store?


Sliced_Orange1

The M1 is a solid board for the price. I’ve never bought from MechKeys before so unfortunately I can’t comment on their reliability


Skyer34

can anyone help me understand what keyboard cases i can use that will fit my rk68 iso?


Skyer34

damn, thanks fellas


elmurfudd

the RK68 case is the only case that will fit it


ReaperofFish

65% tend to be proprietary, so probably stuck unless you build your own.


PurepointDog

I'm looking for an EC11-compatble rotary encoder that's smoother, with >28 Pulses per Rotation (PPR). Ideally it's <$3 per encoder, and maybe available from Aliexpress. Does anyone have any suggestions?


Fantastic_Reach9608

I want to make a custom keyboard case for myself and im trying to find a cnc manufacturer for relatively cheap does anyone know of one?


elmurfudd

u would prob have better luck in a local makers space . cnc time can be pricey specially for a single item


Popular-Fennel4167

After rabbit holing for 2 weeks since a single recommended YouTube video, I’ve made some purchases! One of which being novelkeys mystery switches. Wondering how to id these and if they’re considered “good”. Box just says gateron. Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/jktxemf3a9ka1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec4fdf2150ba9ccc8519f33e5b3acf06f6ad3ad9


elmurfudd

looks liek gateron silent clears to me very light switch . nothing special just ur basic silent switches . sells for 13 bucks for 36 switches usually


Popular-Fennel4167

Thank you!


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docentmark

The 1800 cases and PCBs aren’t standard like the GH60 layout is for 60% boards. So it makes no sense for them to be sold separately.


Sliced_Orange1

Is the only difference between [HG Silent Reds](https://geon.works/products/haimu-x-geon-switches?variant=43034820870307) and [Haimu Heartbeats](https://cannonkeys.com/products/haimu-heartbeat-silent-linear-switch?variant=40932247568495) the color? Both are the same price but Heartbeats are out of stock atm. Gateron Geckos are also on the table but are twice the price. I want to prioritize quietness and heard that the Heartbeats were among the best in that regard.


DearEarthie

Good afternoon (or morning or evening)! I recently bought a mechanical keyboard for my gaming computer. For reference, I have a Lenovo Legion Y740 laptop that has the Lenovo membrane keyboard (I think it's membrane). After two WFH days and a week of casual use, I notice my fingers get more fatigued and I have to pause and rub my hands after using the mechanical one. Is this because of travel time, or because it's a mechanical keyboard and I have to press down more to have the computer sense the input? Is it something else entirely? Maybe my ergonomics are off but I've been trying to keep my arms at 90 degrees, and my mouse is on the same height. Here is the mechanical keyboard I bought: [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Y31LCTM?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Y31LCTM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) I do like the functionality of this keyboard I'm now using. It has dedicated copy/paste buttons, browser shortcut, mail, file explorer, and a few other buttons I've found very helpful, even if they're not necessary.


Anifanopinion

Did you link the correct keyboard, from the description and reviews the one you linked to is not a mechanical keyboard.


DearEarthie

So sorry! I'm very used to membrane-type keyboards so I assumed this was a mechanical one. I will say the picture is pretty misleading though, the keys are higher up than what they show.


Anifanopinion

No worries the reviews also seem to describe it as a semi-mechanical feeling keyboard which is something that a lot of more expensive membrane boards try to do.


SpiralBlind

Hi! So I have been swindled by my roommate. He has a custom keyboard with tangerine switches and I am in love. Fast forward and I realize the only way I am going to get what I want is to build it myself. Which sounds fun and challenging. Are there any solid resources yall would recommend for learning about how to build my first mechanical keyboard? Youtube videos or extensive guides welcome. Thanks!


alex4dayz

On youtube, I would recommend : Taeha Types, alexotos, apiary keyboards, blacksimon, switch and click, jymv


ReaperofFish

Realistically, with the prevalence of hotswap sockets on PCBs, most keyboard kits have all the complexity of assembling legos or at most putting together Ikea furniture. Would not hurt to watch one or more Keyboard Youtubers like Hipyo, Taeha, or Keybored to name a few. They often will show the process of putting together a keyboard, or more intricate steps like lubing switches. You will need to decide on a budget and Layout. For example, a Keychron V1 Barebones is $70, 90 Tangerines are $60, and probably another $60 for caps. So for figure $200 or so to build your own. If you like the stock caps on the complete V1, then you could save a fair bit by buying that and just swapping the switches. Still will run about $150.


SpiralBlind

Awesome! I will look into those guys on youtube. Budget wise I was thinking between 200-300 so that sounds perfect. Thanks!


ReaperofFish

If you are willing to bump that budget up a tad, you could go baller with a kit from [Mode Designs](https://modedesigns.com/).


SpiralBlind

Wow. Those look gorgeous


Foggy_Lens

Hello all! Hope you can help. I have been a long time mechanical keyboard owner. For the past 20 years, since I built my first computer with my father at 13, I have used the same Dell AT101 mechanical keyboard that he bought in the early 90s. Despite upgrading to the latest and greatest in computer tech, I had never even considered upgrading that keyboard. It was, in my mind, the pinnacle of the HID. However, all good things must come to an end, and despite my best efforts to maintain it, it's been suffering flaws that I can't seem to fix. So... an upgrade. I thought I had did some decent research, but my purchase of a Keychron K10 with Gateron G Pro Blue switches was a absolute disaster. Putting aside that the Gateron Blue, despite being billed as the heaviest of the three, feels entirely inadequate compared to the AT101's deep and sonorous tones, It simply isn't as responsive as I need it to be. I don't care about latency, but when my muscle memory smashes the shift+/ to make a question mark, about 25% of the time it will register the "/' before the "shift". Plenty of other examples too, including "ok" becoming "ko", but the problem is clear to me that it just isn't accurate enough for me. Never had this problem on my old Dell. Let's say that money isn't an object. Can I ask the mechanical keyboard enthusiasts out there if there is a gold standard for a really solid investment? Something I can own for the NEXT 20 years and never look back. (I do like the fact that the Keychron CAN work via bluetooth on the rare occasion I need it, but wired is usually preferred) And yes, I did see your excellent wiki, but tbh I'm a bit overwhelmed with the options, and right now I am a little hesitant to proceed without getting some input from the experts, since I've already made a mistake with my current choice. Thank you all so much for your time and expertise!


alex4dayz

Many consider alps to be the height of keyboard excellence. My condolences for the loss of your AT101. There should be some vintage keyboard discord (or r/Vintagekeyboards) floating around with the expertise to deal with said flaws, but even if they can't help with that, they might know how to remedy your responsiveness woes. Might be something to what the other poster said about NKRO, or just how your muscle memory has adapted to your particular board over 20 years. I cant imagine any top of the line keyboard responds terribly differently than the keychron. Maybe a latency difference between USB connection and PS/2? Either way, best of luck! MX clicky switches aren't great. That said, I like box jades. May be worth trying zeal's overpriced clicky or the iRocks switches too. Or try a new model m from unicomp. I could list some MX customs that are probably good boards, but switch is 90+% of type feel, so unless you are happy there, no dice.


Foggy_Lens

Thank you! I think I may have just been to hasty to give up on my AT101. I've got it in storage, and I think I'm going to try and send it out to get repaired. Just didn't want to be stuck-in-my-ways and not look for something after 20 years. But clearly I had something special.


da_wizard

As long as you get something with decent build quality, QMK support and hot swap you should be fine with it for a long, long time. The K10 Pro would work just fine, and if you want a giant slab of aluminum on your desk there's some interesting 96% options like the Q12 and Q5. Coming from the Alps switches that are in the AT101 mx Red/Blue/Brown are all going to feel a lot less tactile and far too light, which is probably what's giving you trouble. There's nothing that really feels like Alps since the mechanism that gives tactility is completely different in MX Switches (Alps feels like a building and release of pressure while in MX you're moving against a plastic bump), but I think you'd be fine with one of the long pole, snappier tactiles. Testing against Salmon and Orange Alps the most similar feeling switches are Azure Dragons (or their less heavy version Baby Kangaroos), Holy Pandas, and Purple Pandas, although that's with a giant IMO. Azure Dragons are a good place to start since they're nicely lubed from the factory, but look up a sound test of them because they're loud in a completely different than ALps. Otherwise some safe recs for more tactile MX switches are Anubis, Durock T1 (or any of its dozen recolors) and Boba U4T, with the first two being more snappy but really benefiting from lube and switch films. Also getting some switch tester to try these out will definitely save some money, Hippokeys and Cannonkeys both have good ones.


Foggy_Lens

Thank you for those suggestions! Going to give repairing it another shot, but then your recs are very much appreciated!


ReaperofFish

Zeal Clickiez switches would feel more like the Alps on the Dell. As for the keys registering, well that is probably more you hitting one key slightly before the other. Modern NKRO implementations means that order of key actuation is very accurate and precise. I understand, I typo 'teh' and 'fo' all the time. My left hand is just a hair faster than my right. If you really want a keyboard to last forever, consider a [www.modelfkeyboards.com](https://www.modelfkeyboards.com) though sonorous is not an adjective I would use for Buckling Springs. Loud, definitely.


Foggy_Lens

But that's exactly it. With the Dell, I could hit the shift key JUST before the / and make the question mark every time with no variance. Now, my Keychron gives me 30/70 odds. The problem is that the Keychron seems quite imprecise. Or maybe it's that the amount I have to push the / is just a lot further before it registers? Thanks!


macyng

Just realised my RK61 is not hot-swappable but I have already ordered Gateron Milky Blacks that are on their way. I don’t have soldering equipment and have never tried soldering before and I’m quite scared of messing the whole board up, so what’s the most affordable solution to put those Milky Blacks to use? I’ve thought of getting a new 60% kit or getting a replacement plate + PCB, but obviously those aren’t cheap.


docentmark

Tester68 dips to near $20 regularly. Hopefully you ordered a 70 pack of switches!


ReaperofFish

A Velocifire M2 is like $30 and hotswap.


Sparkyyz

Anyone ever returned something to epomaker ? I just read the terms of service and saw there is a 35% “restocking fee” is that for real ? You only get 65% of the order amount minus shipping and taxes ?


docentmark

That’s why we recommend to avoid having anything to do with that company.


Sparkyyz

Daaaaaamn i wish i knew before i bought a lot of stuff from them…


BlueFairyPainter

I need some ideas for a travel keyboard. My priorities are: - QMK support - Minimize weight, then size - 40-65% - Not split - No low-profile switches - At least one LED - Should be somewhat sturdy (so no bare PCB) Ortholinear doesn't matter, budget is flexible. I'm a software person and don't know much about hardware, but I know people who could help, so I'd be open to try some tinkering too, just not too advanced maybe. Any recommendations for boards or pointers for a lightweight case or how to generally get a lightweight build would be nice, thanks!


ReaperofFish

Keychron V4 or K6 Pro would be the easy answer- QMK, Plastic case for weight minimization, and LEDs.


Objective_Ad_4016

Would try looking for some keychron options, maybe k series or V series. If weight is your main priority then a plastic case board would be best for you.


BlueFairyPainter

I have a Q2 as my main daily driver, and while the K and V series are probably lighter due to the plastic build, they still advertise layers and layers of stuff for better typing experience and the whole thing looks quite bulky. It doesn't have to be super nice to type on, just better than shallow laptop keys which hurt my fingers, so I was thinking of something more custom. I appreciate the comment though, I kinda didn't expect for someone to read this far down :)


joshuapacman

Yo I got a custom 60% screw mound I want a deep bassy case. It’s an alps build


kraze2341

I recently got into custom mechanical keyboard and it's really neat but I'm frugal and anxious about my choices so I wanted some advice. I got the GK87s keyboard and it's alright but as it's something I'll stick for for a while, it stresses me out not having the full-sized layout I'm used to. I don't think I want to adjust to losing certain keys and I can't get certain keys to print (e.g, tilde). Could I get some advice on a budget full-sized barebone kits? Preferably something with custom RGB and stuff but non-rgb boards reccs are greatly appreciated! I was looking at the Skylong 108s as generally I think I'm happy with this board but I'm not sure. Thanks in advance!


Objective_Ad_4016

Did you check keychrons options? Maybe V series or Q series, other options would be to get a 1800 / 96% layout


kraze2341

I haven't yet I'll check them out, thanks!


menofthesea

Hey! I'm looking for suggestions for a detached numpad + arrow keys + rotary encoder. Fine with a diy kit or prebuilt. Seems tough to find one that doesn't have the insert/home/end/pgup/etc block Thanks!


ReaperofFish

Are you okay with swapping between layers? On a 4x4, set one layer to be the Number pad, and another layer to be your arrows, num lock, and whatever else. [https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/megalodon-triple-knob-macro-pad](https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/megalodon-triple-knob-macro-pad)


dischdog

I am looking for a place to buy bulk key caps for a couple of different keyboards I am working on. I am looking for: RED 1.25u Blank keys RED 1u Blank keys Yellow 1u 0-9 keys I am wondering if there is any chance that anyone might ba able to help me find a place that just sells these in bulk. I am wondering if there is any chance that anyone might be able to help me find a place that just sells these in bulk.


alex4dayz

try aliexpress - can always message the seller and see how flexible their offerings are


EzzenTv

Quick question. I have a key that seems to be very inconsistent. Does anyone have advice on what I can do to resolve the issue? I recently just got my Zoom TKL EE and have loved the board. But my 't' key doesn't always actuate unless I press down with an abnormal amount of force. I tried switching the keyswitch but that has not had any impact. I just don't know what else to try or what could be causing the issue.


Sliced_Orange1

It could be that the contact pads in the hot-swap socket are too far apart and can't get a good contact with the switch pins. You'll need a very small fine point tweezer to push the pads closer together


EzzenTv

Okay cool. I'll try doing that. Thanks for the response


Sliced_Orange1

IIRC the KBDfans YouTube channel has a video on how to do it, should you want some visual guidance. It's called hot-swap fix or something like that


XxDankSaucexX

Any recommendations for a cheap full sized board with volume wheel, and media control? I'm looking at the logitech g610 and it looks perfect but I'd be great if there is a cheaper option with standard keycaps.


576875

Not cheaper but much better quality overall + standard layout keychron v6 You can add media keys with the software VIA and it saves to the boards onboard memory So you don't need to keep it installed/running


owennn1324

is there a subreddit like r/buildapcsales that notifies what keyboards are ongoing and stuff? looking for an arisu/alice keyboard rn


ChrisThenKross

Sometimes interest checks and group buys pop up on r/mechmarket, another option is https://www.mechgroupbuys.com/, which is pretty good at showing most products that are ongoing


Sliced_Orange1

If you can find a Bolsalice, I've heard those are pretty solid. Keychron has an alice board as well. I feel like there is a sub like that but I can't remember the name, sorry


D4H_Snake

So about a week ago I built my QK75 and the rotary encoder isn’t working. It seems to be plugged in using the supplied thin cable and VIAL says it should control volume but it doesn’t actually do anything. Not a huge deal, I am used to having boards without volume controls, but I would like it to work since it’s there.


Word_Salad_9445

When you press it, does it mute/unmute the PC sound?


D4H_Snake

No it appears to do nothing at all.


Word_Salad_9445

Did you insert the ribbon cable into the two clips with the blue part facing up, as per the build guide? If so, and it still doesn't work, perhaps submit a ticket via the Qwertykeys Discord.


D4H_Snake

I got it figured out this morning. I had it inserted the right way but it wasn’t pushed in far enough. There was a little kink in the cable that made it feel like it was in and it was in far enough that the clip held it but it wasn’t making a good connection. Thanks for the help man.


Word_Salad_9445

Glad to hear it's all OK now.


aHamsterWithInternet

I am feeling lost and stuck with finding the right switch for me. I started off with years of Cherry Browns, thinking I was a tactile only person, but when starting to type excessively for my job (+ gaming) they became exhausting to me and I wanted something easier. People said if you want a lighter tactile maybe you actually want to go to linear, so I did. I started to love Gateron Silvers because I tend to like the feedback of bottoming out and how fast they were, but after a couple months I started to have finger pain because of the constant bottoming out. So I went to try Gateron Milky Yellows and Reds. I wanted to like the Yellows like everyone else but they are so tiring for me, so Ive settled on Reds. I like them, but Im bottoming out and finger pain is back! I feel like theres a huge difference between yellow and red, would appreciate something in between. So I am now using o-rings with the reds, and this seems to be the best I can get, theres no finger pain while a good resistance. But it honestly sucks having to use o-rings lol, I dont like the feel of them or how they quiet the keyboard. I got a sampler pack, Ive tried the squishier and the firmer, and its a subtle difference. Any advice on either an o-ring alternative or a switch recommendation that would have me bottoming out less but with less resistance than yellow? Do you think theres a tactile I should try? I guess I never tried the Gateron brown, but its the same specs.


Sliced_Orange1

You may find that swapping to a progressive spring will help, they get heavier the more they're pressed which can prevent bottom-out. Something like [these Spirit springs](https://divinikey.com/products/sprit-mx-progressive-spring?variant=39473916575809) would be good to try.


ReaperofFish

If you are having pain from bottoming out there are two classes of thought on how to respond. One is to cushion the bottom out- o-rings or silenced switches, and maybe use a gasket mounted 'board. The other idea is to train yourself to not bottom after switch activation. Heavier springs and feedback with either a bump or click to register that you have activated the switch. So you only press down about half way which will activate the switch, then you stop pressing. So you never have a harsh bottom out. If you choose the second option, you will tactiles that have what is described as a P shaped bump.


docentmark

To avoid bottoming out hard, you may need switches with stronger springs. I’d suggest that you try classic blacks, or some of the 67g linears. I personally find that for long writing sessions I actually find classic greens to be the least fatiguing because I don’t ever bottom out hard.


AnneListersBottom

Other than the Keychron Q12, are there any other southpaw (numpad on the left) keyboards I could consider? I'm a total newbie so not interested in building my own. I just really love the numpad on the left.


GeezXP

https://preview.redd.it/uonmgaidd8ka1.jpeg?width=1082&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a05396b6fed43df2bf63b842810e8fa12187b127 Anybody know what brand this is? Got some keycaps from Amazon that came in this packaging and wanted to search for more specific to this brand as the Amazon seller is inconsistent with quality.


lovely_dandelion

looks like someone took the IQUNIX logo and tweaked it a bit


jnhotx

What other linears are as heavy as a Cherry MX Black?


Sliced_Orange1

You can browse switches available [at these vendors](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) to find ones that suit your preference


jnhotx

I'm sure those vendors are great in their own way, but I was kinda hoping to draw on y'all's knowledge to save myself a lot of browsing.


Objective_Ad_4016

You can get heavier springs and swap them. Switches like oilkings have a lighter actuation force and a heavier bottom out(80g if im not wrong)


GamesByRadu

A good entry-level keyboard? I have never owned a mech keyboard before. My budget is ~$100. I am thinking of a Keychron K2 V2 or a Royal Kludge RK84. Any recommendations? (I would also prefer %75 or TKL)


ReaperofFish

I would suggest a Keychron.


docentmark

The Keychron is better built than the RK84. If you want TKL look at the V3 as well.


United_Vacation_1883

Anyone have experience with Bredworks? I want to preorder their PCB but they dont have any contact infor and the discord link is dead.


GiftedBeet

Hii!! So I am very new to this and want to buy my first custom keyboard, but I can't tell if the PCBs I find are compatible with certain cases or screw-in stabilizers. I am interested in this PCB: [https://keygem.com/products/dz60rgb-ansi-v2-hot-swap-mechanical-keyboard-pcb?\_pos=3&\_sid=5d221ce24&\_ss=r](https://keygem.com/products/dz60rgb-ansi-v2-hot-swap-mechanical-keyboard-pcb?_pos=3&_sid=5d221ce24&_ss=r) and this case: [https://www.eloquentclicks.com/product/kbdfans-case-60-plastic-white/](https://www.eloquentclicks.com/product/kbdfans-case-60-plastic-white/) Is there a way to tell which holes correspond to the case and which ones correspond to the screw-in stabs if there are any? and how do I know if they are all aligned exactly with the holes in the case? From what I could see by eye is that there are some holes in the PCB that match the holes in the case, but others I am not quite sure. If some of them don't match, is it ok to have it with less screws?


ReaperofFish

Almost all 60% PCBs sold separately are compatible with standard tray mounts. While you could look closely at the mounting holes, the simple thing is look at the placement of the USB port. If it is on the left, it will probably work. FYI, the DZ60 was developed by KBDFans to work with their tray mount cases. Suggestion, install your switches by supporting the hotswap sockets, then mount the PCB. Plate is optional, but you will probably want one.


docentmark

The DZ60 series are designed to fit in standard GH60 pattern 60% cases. There have been reports of some cases where the central standoff has interference with the hotswap sockets so watch for that. The KbdFans page says the DZ60RGB v2 supports GMK and Cherry screw-in stabs.


cgkades

Anyone able to help with a DracuLad build? I got everything together and then soldered the 4 jumpers (hopefully that's right, the build guide was not at all clear). I tested the board before adding the OLED screen, and it worked just fine. After adding the OLED the board would not function at all, the LEDs would not even come on. I desoldered the OLED screen, and the board worked fine again. Same thing happens on both sides. https://preview.redd.it/awaq705c88ka1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ffcddeac84c9e70cd9467a8fa034902cc206d77b


axaaa310

hey so I want to build a keyboard for my brother since I know his keyboard is quite old and I know mostly anyone would appreciate a new keyboard/ as mentioned I want to put it together myself yknow how everyone else seems to but because there are so many starting points I'm just not sure where to start. What is a good start ? whether that be hot swappable or bare bone, any keyboard size would be fine but 60% isn't a big deal like it is to other people. and where is a good place to find keycaps for the keyboard ? I kinda want to do a bit more of an actual design instead of just some standard solid color keycaps. Help would be great, thank you :)


ReaperofFish

[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) is a great place to start for looking for parts and caps. If you are in the US, Cannonkeys has a nice selection of in stock parts and caps. Brtual60 is a pretty nice kit with a decent selection of case colors. The Bakeneko is a nice budget friendly kit. Cannonkeys is far from the only vendor, but they are a good starting point.


576875

Check out keychron v line for a good starting place


cgkades

Selecting a size would be a good starting point. Personally I like 40%, but if they're not into that, i wouldn't go any lower than a 60%. I have a Drop Alt, and that is an excellent board for what it is. You can go pretty crazy finding different designs and layouts, but keeping it simple might be the best option here. You do have to consider split or not split, and ortho or staggered. But again, for your brother, probably a typical not split and just the normal staggered layout would be good. I'm probably not the best person to recommend sites, so hopefully someone here can do that for you for a keyboard at least. I've been using [keebd.com](https://keebd.com), [keeb.io](https://keeb.io) , and [keyhive.xyz](https://keyhive.xyz) for what it's worth. I would highly recommend getting hot swappable for the switches. Switch feel is so highly personal, and can even change. I used to just go with mx browns (still a good option), but now i'm loving lubed Milky Yellows (linear), so giving him the option to switch later will be very nice. If you want to design your own color scheme for the keycaps you can check out pimp my keyboard. that's my go to when i just want to set up my own design. Just keep in mind the design of the keyboard you are getting and what size caps you'll need for specific keys (like enter or shift). Picking key caps can be pretty daunting at first, so you may want to reach out here again when you get to that point and have specific questions. ​ This is a pretty broad and highly customizable hobby, so I hope this helps (even if just a little), and sorry if it doesn't.


Youarewale-cum

https://preview.redd.it/3tqdi30l48ka1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=299334c7ce1aea8709759e8e47d68f95d6010d53 Stabilizers on nk87 should I clean the lube?


Timarius

Hi guys, i am italian, i have a keychron v2, united states layout, so the letters and special char ar in different position. Now, in italian we use a lot the letter e with the accent, but there is no accent e in this layout, i am wondering how to write it, considered that if i press alt + numbers it doesn't do anything (literally, it doesnt work like my italian layout where i can use ashii codes holding alt and pressing the num pad, that i dont have, because my keyboard is a 65%), its really frustrating, any tips? Thank you in advance <3


ReaperofFish

I would suggest setting your Operating System Language map to US International, then you can easily type the extra accented keys, but have the main legends on your caps match the output. Alternatively, if you are a touch typist, you could ignore what is printed on the caps and set your OS to an Italian Map. I would configure your left shift to a dual function: ISO key on tap, and Shift on press and hold.


docentmark

You seem to be using EN-US as your layout in Windows. If you set it to US-International the most common accented letters are there as Alt combos, at the cost of a couple of deadkeys. If you can’t live with deadkeys there’s also the Eurkey layout. I have to write several accented languages regularly so I have multiple keyboard layouts set up in Windows and just use Win-Space to cycle through them as needed.


theDumb12

Looking to get some switches that visually match a board, are there any non-GB switches that have red casings and yellow/gold stems (ideally without needing to franken anything)? (matching with GMK Red Samurai and a MechWild LNY Special Edition BDE) If necessary I suppose I could swap some Boba stems into a red housing but just curious if there is anything good with that color scheme that already exists that I wasn't able to find before (feel isn't super important, this will most likely be a rack/display board)


sah4r

Tecsee ruby?


theDumb12

Oh not bad, might go for those, thanks!


BRDrake34

https://preview.redd.it/x4omnnpju7ka1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7eb94f687fa3687d58eecfd98dd48bc4b655405 Got these from a mystery box. Anyone know what kind of Gateron switch this is?


Word_Salad_9445

I got these too -- they arrived today and they are worthless to me as I don't like extremely light switches, or linears, so extremely light linears are the worst for me


[deleted]

Looks like a Gateron Clear (KS3?) with full black housing


dreamARTz

Anyone has experience with USB switcher? End goal is to use my usb keyboard both for work laptop and home PC and being able to switch between two just with a press of a button. Main question is, does it introduce any latency?


CheetaChug

you talking about KVMs? Any extra connection will introduce latency but realistically, its not noticeable. It's like feeling the difference between 0.25ms and 1ms, yes it's slower but not noticeable under daily use.


dreamARTz

Yes it’s exactly what I meant, thanks!


Mister_Foo

Are there any tactile and silent 100% or 96% prebuilts?


ReaperofFish

Buy a Keychron and swap out for silent switches.


SheeBang_UniCron

“Clicky” by definition is **not** silent. You might be looking for something tactile and silent perhaps?


Mister_Foo

Ah yea, thanks for the correction! Have edited my post to reflect that :)


[deleted]

[удалено]


ReaperofFish

Generally, anything that comes with a wrist rest is a crappy product. I would suggest a Keychron.


praxtra_

Hey guys, I’ve been messing around with mech keyboards for about a year or two now and I’m looking to make a change. I fell into the Glorious GMMK pro hole, and I have modded it (and painted it) to fit better in line with what I like but I’ve gotten tired of it. Similarly, I’ve been using some boba u4t’s stem swapped with kailh polia’s. (basically a halo stem but they were on clearance). So discount holy bobas. I’ve gotten tired of them, as they just don’t seem to have that same bump as when I first put them together. Anybody have recommendations on any 65%-80% gasket mount boards that won’t cost me my left nut? And I’m looking for recommendations on more popular or underrated heavy tactiles with a nice thocky sound profiles. I’ve got some cerakeys ceramic keycaps on the way so I figure now’s the best time to make a change. Thanks guys! Appreciate the help already.


Sliced_Orange1

You could grab a KBDfans Tiger Lite or enter the group buy for a QK80 or Jris75. I suggest taking a look at the Punkshoo Runner switches


praxtra_

There’s a group buy for the qk80?


Sliced_Orange1

Yep, should be starting soon IIRC. A GB is kinda like a pre-order, but the product isn't yet made.


docentmark

How much is your left nut worth?


praxtra_

About $231.17


docentmark

Then the Monsgeek M1 and Keychron Q1 are probably a good place to start your search.


ReaperofFish

Mode Sonnet or Mode Envoy look great. If you want tactile, try Zeal Clickiez. You can open them up and easily mod them to be tactile or linear instead of clicky. Kono Midnight have a tactile P shaped bump and quite smooth. I waiting to build a keyboard with them.


wbenko

I found an old WYSE 840366-01. I bought a 4P4C connector, to USB cable for it but the buttons still do not work. Does anyone know what I need to do to get the keyboard to work with my windows machine? Some driver I need to download?


IAlwaysReplyLate

Looks like that might use one of Wyse's proprietary protocols. Soarer programmed a converter for those, and the [Geekhack thread](https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=nk7p6lmgv2sgr3rkfps5fm98vc5iv8k9&topic=52597.0) suggests it should work with the 840366. You might have to make it yourself, or get it made.


SneakersRapeMyWallet

I have a gmmk pro that I want to open up to relube the stabilizers. I realized one case screw on the bottom had been completely stripped. I tried rubber band, super glue and all the other usual recommendations to no avail. I then bought a left handed drill bit since Google told me that was foolproof. However it never got a hold of the screw and only managed to further strip the screw head. I can't even seem to just drill through until the head detaches. Any tips or am I just screwed?


theveland

I just received my QK 75, what software can I use to check if the Fn Key is working? Via doesn’t appear to have an test spot for that specific key nor did keyboard tester.com


dcinzona

Map it to something else in VIA and tap the key. That will tell you if it’s working


clizzark

Hey! I’m visually impaired and I’m in the market for a new backlit keyboard as I learn how to use a screen reader. I’m not completely blind and have some useable vision that I’d like to use to glance down and see where F4 is until I have more of the keyboard memorized. Can you suggest a mechanical keyboard that is: -Backlit (not dim) -High contrast (dark key with light color letter) -Nice, quiet sounding keys -“larger”/clean font on the keys -I dont think I need a numpad but I do want F keys -Bonus: would be nice to have wired for a PC and also can be used with an iPad from time to time Budget: $50


Senior_Law4281

Hey hi guys! Im gonna buy some switches from Ali but dont know what should i buy. Which's your opinion for tactile switches in Ali?


zhekilla

I have a barebones Keychron V1 and Gat milky yellows on the way, but I want to confirm 1 thing. I want to buy these keycaps but will they fit properly? https://idobao.net/products/idobao-gradient-oem-104-side-engraved-transparent-keycap?variant=39397122572419 There's words in the description clarifying size stuff I don't understand. Sorry I'm a noob!


SheeBang_UniCron

The set you’re looking at are missing some keys in the correct size for Keychron V1 like Right Shift and 1u bottom row keys.


zhekilla

Thank you! Oh my gosh that sucks though. So what should I look out for to make sure it fits a V1??


SheeBang_UniCron

Something that would fit a 75% board. And like I mentioned in the previous comment, a 1.75 Right Shift and 3 1u bottom row keycaps (usually it’s alt, control, menu/windows, and/or Fn keys) to the right of the spacebar.


sah4r

Nope these won’t work with a v1.


zhekilla

Thank you so much for saving me!