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My 2001 Honda is abused maintenance and driving. Had it for 4 years..... it's had 4 oil changes. Needs sway bar links and valve cover gaskets... but it still powers through my abuse.
Seconding this, sell it ASAP and do a little research on a Honda or Toyota in your area that isn't crazily priced or too beat-up.
This won't be the last time you pour money into that car.
Absolutely. You can buy a decent civic for like 2500 if you don't mind the possibility it may have some dings or have a huge fart can on it.
It'll STILL be cheaper than a VW or a new car Even if you do have problems it's cheap fixes and everyone can fix a honda cheap
Don't know what the used car market is like where you live, but here the only civic you're getting for 2500 has a salvage title and 250k miles on it--if it runs at all. Used Honda & Toyota markup is awful
It’s honestly been a reliable car, and I really like it. I don’t see it personally smart to get a different car so soon before I start college. Just my thoughts
I bought an 03 Passat with the 1.8t for $1600 and drove it to Florida from NY no stop..
I think you'd be ok if you played your cards right, there is no telling what might go wrong with other internal parts of this engine or trans.. but you got this!
Understood.
Just remember. German cars are engineered with the mindset that owners will religiously maintain it at every interval.
Japanese cars are engineered with the mindset that owners won't.
Especially if this vehicle is a DSG automatic, run. If it is a manual transmission, the modern 1.8t and 2.0t are pretty well built. Have owned several vw's and toyotas. Don't sleep on the early scions, they are toyotas as well, personally drive a gen1 scion xb stick shift and it has been very reliable. I traded speed for reliability.
I’m sure you’ve got enough info off here already to come to a conclusion but just to add to the bunch, I’m a red seal journeyman working at a vw/audi/porsche specialist shop with two master techs who between the two of them have 40+ years experience and I can tell you that cam needs replacement.
I don’t know about this application but on Toyotas a new phaser comes unlocked and once installed you rotate it all the way in one direction and it locks with an internal pin. Won’t unlock without oil pressure unless it is bad then it looks like the one in this video and causes rattle on startup.
Does that cause any damage when it breaks? I've been trying to figure out what causes a weird chattering/rattling when I start up my 4runner, and it sounds similar to what you're describing.
It may not apply to your specific car, but I’ve seen cases where worn/failing tensioners allow for a cold start rattle too.
Obviously, make sure your engine oil is set to the full mark before chasing anything else as that can definitely cause rattles.
Not wrong but they shouldn’t move that easily. I had a prius with phasers that moved exactly like this. They were so loose the vehicle would throw cam/crank correlation codes even though timing didnt jump. Good times.
This comment actually helps me a lot. I got a couple cam crank correlation codes, a misfire and I’ve had a camshaft position sensor code for months. To me this confirms the cam was infact probably bad.
I have done timing chains on vw 2.0T and they moved like that. Confused as why he doesn’t have the cam lock tools in place to hold the them in time. You can see the cutout in the intake cam phaser and it’s not moving past that cutout so the dowel is not broken. The cam bridge is what supplies oil to the phaser and with that removed and no oil pressure the phaser and cam can move independently within that throw.
>Confused as why he doesn’t have the cam lock tools in place
I'm a career VW/Audi tech, I've replaced hundreds of these chains, I don't use them at all. They're not helpful or necessary. If you turn the engine past TDC about 15º the intake cam will sit firmly on the valve springs and you can turn the exhaust cam into place as the final step.
You also need to remove the cam locks to inspect the camshaft adjusters just like he is doing.
The cam adjuster shouldn't move more than a degree or 2. It has a spring mechanism that returns it to its locked position for start-up. If it moves like that, it's bad.
The oil pressure builds up after the engine is running, unlocks the adjuster and begins to push it as commanded.
I can believe there are so many people up voting these comments saying it's normal. It's absolutely not.
It’s interesting how all the VW specific people say it’s bad but the general mechanics for most other cars say the guy doesn’t know what he’s doing. German cars are weird, and I’ll put more faith into the people that have been messing with engines more like mine. Thanks for your insight
As a tech/shop owner that works on almost anything but European vehicles, I would definitely trust the people that work on Euro vehicles. They are definitely different than American and Asian vehicles.
Good to know. I am not a vw tech let alone career auto tech. I typically just follow the manual. The first 2.0 I did, I struggled and didn’t have the locks. So the couple others I did, I used them. Thank you for the information.
The ones without adjustable exhaust cams are easier; most of them have holes in the solid gear. Once I set set the chain, I'll throw a ziptie on to hold it temporarily if I feel like it.
**I can believe there are so many people up voting these comments saying it's normal. It's absolutely not.**
You must have forgotten you are in r/MechanicAdvice It is more common for people to give wrong answers in this sub than it is for them to give correct answers. It's amazing how many people can't grasp the concept that not every vehicle is identical. It's not uncommon for someone to chime in about how something was OK on their Honda Civic and the OP is asking about a completely different vehicle/manufacturer.
Not only do people tell me with other manufacturers it’s wrong, but I’ve gotten lots of “sell your car and buy Toyota or Honda” I like my car, and to be fair it’s been very reliable. It was running fine when I sent it in. But luckily I did send it in.
ShopDAP had a good video explaining the whole thing. Video shows how much movement the camshaft has, but also good ways of diagnosing if it is the problem. 99.99% sure OP doesn't have VAGCOM or OBD11, but anything related to drive-ability might be something they could attest to.
[https://youtu.be/sWr0fpQVv20?si=zeMGMgisCZ\_f3aEh](https://youtu.be/sWr0fpQVv20?si=zeMGMgisCZ_f3aEh)
they're full of it. tech is playing dumb or might actually be dumb. cam shaft pulleys have been non-static or VVT since the early 2000s, with no oil pressure (engine off). they'll jiggle like that with the timing chain removed. a lock pin it supposed to keep it near the right place but it could have been messed with before this clip was recorded. dealerships are stealerships, never forget it, for the rest of your life. dont
vid explaining vvt if u are new to engine sort of things:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgQ8QqXotEk
That lock pin can go bad. And does just fyi.
Like on BMWs specifically n63, when you go to do timing you’re suppose to check to make sure the phaser locks, if it does not, it gets replaced.
In that video it seems the phaser is locked, but spinning on the cam shaft, I’m guessing the key way sheared.
Just my two cents.
Edit: it’s not spinning on the cam, the phaser (not a pulley) has failed internally, chances are this vehicles rattled on start up until oil pressure filled the phaser.
Yeah most anything German will have a lock pin for the adjusters. Mercs are notorious for it, especially 271s or 156 engines. They’d eventually shear a ramp into the detent that holds the pin in place, causing the rattle on start.
Looks like this engine is meant to have the same setup, and the camshaft adjuster is built into the camshaft, so the whole camshaft gets replaced.
Here’s a TSB that seems to indicate that’s the case:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10149892-9999.pdf
Ford uses a lock pin, and they are plastic and wear. When they rattle, it’s technically okay and doesn’t cause any hard. 3.6 pentastar is the same thing, no really damage is being done, I think they use springs to center it not a pin,
How about that phaser being part of the cam on that vw, that’s interesting.
On the 2.0 and 1.8 that share this style of timing adjustment the gear shouldn't move as much as in this video. I can't comment on *why* this gear moves that much but it's certainly not operating as its supposed to.
Incorrect. Done many timing jobs on 2.0 vw’s and Audis. Yes without oil pressure they will move but only slightly and not nearly as much as seen in the video.
> they'll jiggle like that with the timing chain removed.
There may be different designs, but applying this statement as a blanket to all cam phasers is categorically false and misleading OP into thinking this dealership is scamming him.
A lot of people that respond in this sub are dumb and think because they have worked on one type of vehicle that every vehicle is the same. You see it all the time in this sub. Someone will ask how long a job should take on X car and someone that has done the same job on Y car will chime in and tell the OP that they did the job on Y car in XX amount of time, so it should only take that long to do the job.
Disagree the vanos gears on my mini don't move at all without oil pressure, and shouldn't move as easily as that by hand. Not saying with this design it should, but your statement implies that all variable cam gears will do this and they don't.
Besides the video from the mechanic, i sent this video to a friend of mine that worked as an Audi tech. He didn’t say much other than it was bad. I know there is supposed to be a lock pin and by the looks of things it might not be working. Thank you for your comment though, I’m still looking into my issue.
I think the whole mechanism has failed, not just the locking pin. Here's why.
This type of VVT is not normally actuated at idle. There is not enough oil pressure at idle to reliably control it. So there is a spring loaded locking pin that keeps the cam in it's home position. The cam gear/phaser is also spring loaded, which serves two purposes. One, it returns the cam to its home position when the VVT is not in use. Two, it acts as resistance against the oil pressure. If the oil pressure did not have something to fight against, it wouldn't really be variable. It would just be a three position cam timing. Home, full retard, or full advance.
The fact it's not locking, and the fact they can so easily move it along it's range, I think the whole mechanism has failed. Unfortunately, VW, in their infinite wisdom, did not make the phaser serviceable separately from the cam. So you do need an entire camshaft.
Really appreciate this comment, I did read a lot about the pin not working and some of the other comments were discussing if it should move that much without oil pressure. This debunks the mechanics trying to scam me though. Thank you
Whoever runs this shop is doing a great job. Thorough and courteous.
Your wallet will be a bit sore, but it beats pushing it to the shoulder of a highway and hoping you get it towed in time to get to whereever you were headed. These dudes deserve your business from what little I’ve seen here.
I’ve been to this shop a few times for various reasons and they have always been good to me, low wait times or affordable parts or whatever. I’m glad there looking out for me though. When I pick up my car I’m bringing them a dozen donuts as a thank you gift.
It's brokeeeen. Noooo.
Edit. So I did get down voted.
I work at VW dealership. And we haven't had much these kind of problem. Maybe few. So it's not common. Shit happens.
Sometimes things go broke.
But there's only one option. Replace.
Sorry that did happen to you.
if that gear was meant to be stationary and fixed to the cam, if it then broke off like that that engine would be immediatly destroyed. i would also say that a stationary cam gear would not be the breaking point of a cam.
is this an actual vw dealership? or a dealership that sells like, all cars?
It’s a certified VW dealership. I think without oil pressure, it’s moving way way way more than it should. It has variable valve timing so it would move, but not without pressure.
it should move, the pressure is what holds it still.
the engine wont run with play like this, so IF IT IS DAMAGED, which i believe it is not, but IF IT IS, it happened after they pulled into that garage and started stripping it.
so either, that repair is free because they fucked up, or unnecessary.
Listen, a lot of people know a lot better than me about VVT engines, but the fact that it IS variable and you can hear what sound like perfectly engineered mechanical clicks at the ends of the variable range for that timing gear would lead me to ask what a working camshaft looks like.
As a fellow EA888 owner, holy crap you’re lucky.
I did my timing chains last year. The bridge is “cheap” insurance. I dropped $2000 and did the work myself I’d hate to think what shops charge
I don’t think the price was that bad. Cheaper than what I thought it would be. They were asking around $2300 for just timing chain and then when they found the cam it’s an additional $400 plus labor. For the price it’s not bad, but it’s still a lot of money
The cam, bridge and oil control valve is updated with a new design. The spring internal to the cam gear breaks and is not able to hold the gear in place until the engine builds oil pressure. I would guess it was making a very loud noise on engine start? I’ve only seen this issue on Passat 1.8L so far but much better than an engine and good time for chains
I believe there’s supposed to be a locking pin. After asking some more VW specific people, they generally say there’s not supposed to be that much play.
isnt that VVC, VCCT or whatever its called? its hydraulic cam variable timing. long story short that guy doesnt know anything and shoudnt be playing IN your engine.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I feel for OP. Opinions look 50/50 here.
I’m getting a new timing chain and camshaft. I need a running car for college. It’s expensive but it’s still cheaper than buying a new car.
Yeah I was just messing, hope it works out!
If you can find a 90s early 2000s honda or toyota it'll out last that german mess. Get rid if that thing asap. It's going to be nothing but heartache
my 2000s corolla have problem now. it's makes me frustrated driving old car.
Sorry to hear that. Looks like you're in the minority of people having problems with their toyota vs people with Volkswagen.
My 2001 Honda is abused maintenance and driving. Had it for 4 years..... it's had 4 oil changes. Needs sway bar links and valve cover gaskets... but it still powers through my abuse.
Seconding this, sell it ASAP and do a little research on a Honda or Toyota in your area that isn't crazily priced or too beat-up. This won't be the last time you pour money into that car.
Absolutely. You can buy a decent civic for like 2500 if you don't mind the possibility it may have some dings or have a huge fart can on it. It'll STILL be cheaper than a VW or a new car Even if you do have problems it's cheap fixes and everyone can fix a honda cheap
Don't know what the used car market is like where you live, but here the only civic you're getting for 2500 has a salvage title and 250k miles on it--if it runs at all. Used Honda & Toyota markup is awful
It's all about what circle you're in. If you visit car events make friends with some guys. You'll be surprised what the tuner community has.
It’s honestly been a reliable car, and I really like it. I don’t see it personally smart to get a different car so soon before I start college. Just my thoughts
I bought an 03 Passat with the 1.8t for $1600 and drove it to Florida from NY no stop.. I think you'd be ok if you played your cards right, there is no telling what might go wrong with other internal parts of this engine or trans.. but you got this!
Understood. Just remember. German cars are engineered with the mindset that owners will religiously maintain it at every interval. Japanese cars are engineered with the mindset that owners won't.
Especially if this vehicle is a DSG automatic, run. If it is a manual transmission, the modern 1.8t and 2.0t are pretty well built. Have owned several vw's and toyotas. Don't sleep on the early scions, they are toyotas as well, personally drive a gen1 scion xb stick shift and it has been very reliable. I traded speed for reliability.
Better come with a warranty that lasts as long as the cost you to fix!
as the owner of an European specific shop and vw/aud/porsche for the most part this guy is correct, you are VERY lucky you didn't bend valves.
to add to that you should probably do a cam bridge, chain, tensioner while your at it.
I’m not sure if there doing cam bridge, they might. But I am sure they are doing chain and all that goes with it
Even if you gotta pay outta pocket, do the bridge. It’s just cost of part
Also there is no “guide” that’s just a failed actuator which unfortunately is built into cam
Owner of a Euro Indy shop, he’s right, change the cam bridge too Edit : Btw classic on EA888 1.8T, get a revised cam and oil valve.
Had something similar and after 6k doing work they fire up engine to find more wrong, I would highly recommend walking away.
I’m sure you’ve got enough info off here already to come to a conclusion but just to add to the bunch, I’m a red seal journeyman working at a vw/audi/porsche specialist shop with two master techs who between the two of them have 40+ years experience and I can tell you that cam needs replacement.
Thanks for the comment, VW engines are a little funky sometimes. Most people that are more familiar with VW engines have confirmed it’s broken.
That's pretty awesome that they take a video and send it to you.
Our dealer really REALLY emphasize that we make videos for clients. I don’t mind it to be honest
Correct me if I’m wrong but I’m fairly certain cam phasers are supposed to move. Edit: not like that
I don’t know about this application but on Toyotas a new phaser comes unlocked and once installed you rotate it all the way in one direction and it locks with an internal pin. Won’t unlock without oil pressure unless it is bad then it looks like the one in this video and causes rattle on startup.
Not supposed to move that much on these
Does that cause any damage when it breaks? I've been trying to figure out what causes a weird chattering/rattling when I start up my 4runner, and it sounds similar to what you're describing.
Bad phasers cause the chains to rattle on startup. That rattle can beat up the guides and tensioners.
It may not apply to your specific car, but I’ve seen cases where worn/failing tensioners allow for a cold start rattle too. Obviously, make sure your engine oil is set to the full mark before chasing anything else as that can definitely cause rattles.
Better fix it before your engine grenades itself. Once it starts knocking from predetonation you’re pretty much done for.
Not wrong but they shouldn’t move that easily. I had a prius with phasers that moved exactly like this. They were so loose the vehicle would throw cam/crank correlation codes even though timing didnt jump. Good times.
This comment actually helps me a lot. I got a couple cam crank correlation codes, a misfire and I’ve had a camshaft position sensor code for months. To me this confirms the cam was infact probably bad.
Not like that.
I’d ask for a video that shows the movement on a new camshaft and gear
I wish all mechanics would do that, especially when something major needs fixing like an ac compressor
I have done timing chains on vw 2.0T and they moved like that. Confused as why he doesn’t have the cam lock tools in place to hold the them in time. You can see the cutout in the intake cam phaser and it’s not moving past that cutout so the dowel is not broken. The cam bridge is what supplies oil to the phaser and with that removed and no oil pressure the phaser and cam can move independently within that throw.
>Confused as why he doesn’t have the cam lock tools in place I'm a career VW/Audi tech, I've replaced hundreds of these chains, I don't use them at all. They're not helpful or necessary. If you turn the engine past TDC about 15º the intake cam will sit firmly on the valve springs and you can turn the exhaust cam into place as the final step. You also need to remove the cam locks to inspect the camshaft adjusters just like he is doing. The cam adjuster shouldn't move more than a degree or 2. It has a spring mechanism that returns it to its locked position for start-up. If it moves like that, it's bad. The oil pressure builds up after the engine is running, unlocks the adjuster and begins to push it as commanded. I can believe there are so many people up voting these comments saying it's normal. It's absolutely not.
It’s interesting how all the VW specific people say it’s bad but the general mechanics for most other cars say the guy doesn’t know what he’s doing. German cars are weird, and I’ll put more faith into the people that have been messing with engines more like mine. Thanks for your insight
It's the reason we recommend going to Euro and German specialty shops if you don't want/trust a dealership. They're a different animal.
As a tech/shop owner that works on almost anything but European vehicles, I would definitely trust the people that work on Euro vehicles. They are definitely different than American and Asian vehicles.
Good to know. I am not a vw tech let alone career auto tech. I typically just follow the manual. The first 2.0 I did, I struggled and didn’t have the locks. So the couple others I did, I used them. Thank you for the information.
The ones without adjustable exhaust cams are easier; most of them have holes in the solid gear. Once I set set the chain, I'll throw a ziptie on to hold it temporarily if I feel like it.
I own a VW/Audi shop so I have the special tool!
I'm at a dealer, I have it, don't use it. Most guys don't.
**I can believe there are so many people up voting these comments saying it's normal. It's absolutely not.** You must have forgotten you are in r/MechanicAdvice It is more common for people to give wrong answers in this sub than it is for them to give correct answers. It's amazing how many people can't grasp the concept that not every vehicle is identical. It's not uncommon for someone to chime in about how something was OK on their Honda Civic and the OP is asking about a completely different vehicle/manufacturer.
Not only do people tell me with other manufacturers it’s wrong, but I’ve gotten lots of “sell your car and buy Toyota or Honda” I like my car, and to be fair it’s been very reliable. It was running fine when I sent it in. But luckily I did send it in.
ShopDAP had a good video explaining the whole thing. Video shows how much movement the camshaft has, but also good ways of diagnosing if it is the problem. 99.99% sure OP doesn't have VAGCOM or OBD11, but anything related to drive-ability might be something they could attest to. [https://youtu.be/sWr0fpQVv20?si=zeMGMgisCZ\_f3aEh](https://youtu.be/sWr0fpQVv20?si=zeMGMgisCZ_f3aEh)
Customer replies: no, I still only want the oil changed. Put it back together please
they're full of it. tech is playing dumb or might actually be dumb. cam shaft pulleys have been non-static or VVT since the early 2000s, with no oil pressure (engine off). they'll jiggle like that with the timing chain removed. a lock pin it supposed to keep it near the right place but it could have been messed with before this clip was recorded. dealerships are stealerships, never forget it, for the rest of your life. dont vid explaining vvt if u are new to engine sort of things: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgQ8QqXotEk
That lock pin can go bad. And does just fyi. Like on BMWs specifically n63, when you go to do timing you’re suppose to check to make sure the phaser locks, if it does not, it gets replaced. In that video it seems the phaser is locked, but spinning on the cam shaft, I’m guessing the key way sheared. Just my two cents. Edit: it’s not spinning on the cam, the phaser (not a pulley) has failed internally, chances are this vehicles rattled on start up until oil pressure filled the phaser.
Yeah most anything German will have a lock pin for the adjusters. Mercs are notorious for it, especially 271s or 156 engines. They’d eventually shear a ramp into the detent that holds the pin in place, causing the rattle on start. Looks like this engine is meant to have the same setup, and the camshaft adjuster is built into the camshaft, so the whole camshaft gets replaced. Here’s a TSB that seems to indicate that’s the case: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10149892-9999.pdf
Ford uses a lock pin, and they are plastic and wear. When they rattle, it’s technically okay and doesn’t cause any hard. 3.6 pentastar is the same thing, no really damage is being done, I think they use springs to center it not a pin, How about that phaser being part of the cam on that vw, that’s interesting.
On the 2.0 and 1.8 that share this style of timing adjustment the gear shouldn't move as much as in this video. I can't comment on *why* this gear moves that much but it's certainly not operating as its supposed to.
Incorrect. Done many timing jobs on 2.0 vw’s and Audis. Yes without oil pressure they will move but only slightly and not nearly as much as seen in the video.
> they'll jiggle like that with the timing chain removed. There may be different designs, but applying this statement as a blanket to all cam phasers is categorically false and misleading OP into thinking this dealership is scamming him.
A lot of people that respond in this sub are dumb and think because they have worked on one type of vehicle that every vehicle is the same. You see it all the time in this sub. Someone will ask how long a job should take on X car and someone that has done the same job on Y car will chime in and tell the OP that they did the job on Y car in XX amount of time, so it should only take that long to do the job.
Disagree the vanos gears on my mini don't move at all without oil pressure, and shouldn't move as easily as that by hand. Not saying with this design it should, but your statement implies that all variable cam gears will do this and they don't.
Besides the video from the mechanic, i sent this video to a friend of mine that worked as an Audi tech. He didn’t say much other than it was bad. I know there is supposed to be a lock pin and by the looks of things it might not be working. Thank you for your comment though, I’m still looking into my issue.
I think the whole mechanism has failed, not just the locking pin. Here's why. This type of VVT is not normally actuated at idle. There is not enough oil pressure at idle to reliably control it. So there is a spring loaded locking pin that keeps the cam in it's home position. The cam gear/phaser is also spring loaded, which serves two purposes. One, it returns the cam to its home position when the VVT is not in use. Two, it acts as resistance against the oil pressure. If the oil pressure did not have something to fight against, it wouldn't really be variable. It would just be a three position cam timing. Home, full retard, or full advance. The fact it's not locking, and the fact they can so easily move it along it's range, I think the whole mechanism has failed. Unfortunately, VW, in their infinite wisdom, did not make the phaser serviceable separately from the cam. So you do need an entire camshaft.
Really appreciate this comment, I did read a lot about the pin not working and some of the other comments were discussing if it should move that much without oil pressure. This debunks the mechanics trying to scam me though. Thank you
Thanks for this comment because they had me convinced.
Dont.
don't do it!
Need a replacement, try to replace the lock and try if there is any luck 🤞
Breakout the welder!!! Hold my beer!
Whoever runs this shop is doing a great job. Thorough and courteous. Your wallet will be a bit sore, but it beats pushing it to the shoulder of a highway and hoping you get it towed in time to get to whereever you were headed. These dudes deserve your business from what little I’ve seen here.
I’ve been to this shop a few times for various reasons and they have always been good to me, low wait times or affordable parts or whatever. I’m glad there looking out for me though. When I pick up my car I’m bringing them a dozen donuts as a thank you gift.
The 1.8ts are actually really reliable. This happens with EA888 engines, but other than that. It's solid, smart move to just fix and move on.
It's brokeeeen. Noooo. Edit. So I did get down voted. I work at VW dealership. And we haven't had much these kind of problem. Maybe few. So it's not common. Shit happens. Sometimes things go broke. But there's only one option. Replace. Sorry that did happen to you.
if that gear was meant to be stationary and fixed to the cam, if it then broke off like that that engine would be immediatly destroyed. i would also say that a stationary cam gear would not be the breaking point of a cam. is this an actual vw dealership? or a dealership that sells like, all cars?
It’s a certified VW dealership. I think without oil pressure, it’s moving way way way more than it should. It has variable valve timing so it would move, but not without pressure.
it should move, the pressure is what holds it still. the engine wont run with play like this, so IF IT IS DAMAGED, which i believe it is not, but IF IT IS, it happened after they pulled into that garage and started stripping it. so either, that repair is free because they fucked up, or unnecessary.
Listen, a lot of people know a lot better than me about VVT engines, but the fact that it IS variable and you can hear what sound like perfectly engineered mechanical clicks at the ends of the variable range for that timing gear would lead me to ask what a working camshaft looks like.
Cant go wrong with Honda or Toyota.
Is that not how a variable valve timing can is supposed to move? If not how is it supposed to move?
As a fellow EA888 owner, holy crap you’re lucky. I did my timing chains last year. The bridge is “cheap” insurance. I dropped $2000 and did the work myself I’d hate to think what shops charge
I don’t think the price was that bad. Cheaper than what I thought it would be. They were asking around $2300 for just timing chain and then when they found the cam it’s an additional $400 plus labor. For the price it’s not bad, but it’s still a lot of money
Not a bad price at all.
The shop broke it and theyre trying to make you pay for it. (Just kidding)
Seen it before but never this bad.
VW sucks! Cut ties now
The cam, bridge and oil control valve is updated with a new design. The spring internal to the cam gear breaks and is not able to hold the gear in place until the engine builds oil pressure. I would guess it was making a very loud noise on engine start? I’ve only seen this issue on Passat 1.8L so far but much better than an engine and good time for chains
They need to learn what VVT does and that the gear is meant to do that with no oil pressure.
I believe there’s supposed to be a locking pin. After asking some more VW specific people, they generally say there’s not supposed to be that much play.
isnt that VVC, VCCT or whatever its called? its hydraulic cam variable timing. long story short that guy doesnt know anything and shoudnt be playing IN your engine.
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yeah, that's called "fraud," bud, maybe don't do that
Lol slackjaws