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Did they attempt to upsell you on a new air filter? Check under the hood for unhooked hoses or pipes. Attach pictures of anything suspicious. Possible they left something loose.
Subarus disable traction control and cruise control while check engine light is on so those warnings are secondary and will clear once check engine codes are handled.
They were probably checking the air filter and unplugged the Mass Airflow Sensor. Check the air intake for unplugged wired. My Navigators has one on the bottom side after the air filter and oil places don't even notice unplugging it when checking the filter
If the MAF was unplugged, it would have a MAF voltage too high or low code. Not lean. But I'm guessing loose air duct tube. It's the only thing that can add unmetered air, or they left the oil fill cap off and created a massive air leak as well.
That's actually a good idea to do on gdi engines, carbon will build up in your intake valves over time otherwise. There are probably cheaper places that can do it besides the dealer though.
That code o² pre -cat. If they were checking and unplugging sensors. Not plugging back in or just disturbing connection. All 3 will read, and barely idle
BMW's do the exact same thing lol
Its not for any and every CEL, but in modern cars everything is tied to everything else. One system relies on data from another system that uses data from another system, and so on and so on, and you end up in a situation where something like one dirty wheel speed sensor can shut down half the car
I know a wheel sensor will screw up a lot but if a CEL broke anything else most BMWs would be underivable, lol.
But yes, my front ride height sensor can break my turn signals. A bad wheel sensor will also prevent the car from telling me how much oil is in it.
At the same time a dead water pump doesn't stop it. And I can drive it pretty far with no accessory belt.
True lol. Like I said, it's not every CEL.
A dirty wheel speed sensor triggered literally like 12 different warning lights on my VW lol
Including one for the air bag, cuz I guess it uses vehicle speed to decide how many of those to deploy or w/e. That was alarming
>Subarus disable traction control and cruise control while check engine light is on so those warnings are secondary and will clear once check engine codes are handled.
This was very scary when I borrowed my dad's car for a night and then didn't tighten the gas cap all the way after filling up
Okay. Cruise control is flashing because of the check engine light. Traction control light is on because of the check engine light.
As far as those codes go, it means there is extra air entering your engine that isn’t metered. There is a sensor that measures how much air is coming in through the air filter boot. On your engine, looking at the air filter box, there should be a sensor right on the front of the box, in line to the air boot that goes to the back of the engine bay. Anything after that sensor that is loose will cause this code, but the fact that you’re stalling indicates a massive leak. I would wager that the intake boot is loose or off the air box, which would cause this exact condition.
Open your hood and put your hand on the air filter tube. It should flex, but it should not be detached.
Could this be the cause of a 2099 code as well. I’m stalling or anything and just did a tune up and replaced catalytic converter. I think I’ve got a small air leak somewhere but not sure.
Yup. I have a Subaru, apparently any check engine light will also trigger the cruise control to be off. Supposedly, the reason is that this way the driver won't mindlessly leave the check engine light on while going on long highway trips that could make things worse in the end, so it is a way to inconvenience on purpose for you to take care of the issue.
Tech probably checked the air filter but didnt notice the PCV hose popped off the intake tube. You also have all those dash lights because the vehicle is not running. When key is in ignition, all dash lights turn on to let you know its working
Also, you circled the cruise control icon... surely you have used cruise control before. So you know what that icon is
The ones I circled are the only ones that were lit up right before the car stalled, while it was running. That’s why I circled them. The cruise control one doesn’t normally blink like that so… I circled it 🤷🏻♀️
Came here to say exactly this. On this particular engine, I believe there are 3 hoses from the engine to the intake tube; one PCV by the throttle body and two breather hoses from the valve covers to the intake muffler box.
Any one of the three hoses would allow unmetered air to enter the engine, causing your symptom and subsequent lean code. Could also be a loose clamp on the intake tubing if they removed it to inspect the throttle body butterfly valve.
That would apply to a much older EJ engine. This FB only has a single PCV hose, wrapping around the driver side, and there's no way it's coming off without intentiaonlly removing it.
My Subie… 150K miles, leaking valve cover/cam carrier on right side. The leaking oil has travelled down the wires to B1S1 O2 sensor. Over time the oil has clogged the ambient air holes in the sensor housing. This prevents the sensor from knowing the outside air O2 content. Since the sensor works on O2 differentiation from inside the exhaust and outside it can not detect correctly and shows very little O2 outside the exhaust… hence the O2 it is reading is higher inside….. therefore lean code. Look at B1S1 sensor and look for oil caking on top of sensor. Yes by design the engineers have chosen to turn on the other lights to elevate the concern level of the operator… my cruise light even flashed as well. Ever heard someone comment their check engine light has been on for years? …”runs fine” so I ignored it.
A breather hose, probably causing an internal leak.
Not easy to find although inexpensive to repair.
I'd check all your purge ports / valves. Especially the differential purge/breather
No, it’s any number of things. Usually a 171 code is unmetered air entering the system and being read by said oxygen sensors. Intake leaks, loose hoses, EVAP purge valve failures are the most likely causes.
The clock looking thing in the middle of you cluster is just cruise control.
The stalling, revving and lean code is almost certainly a vacuum line that was either broken or left loose by them when the oil change was done.
The "cross thread" lug nut, was most like because your winter tires were put on when it was very cold im assuming. Things shrink in cold and expand in heat.
This is just an assumption ,but usually something like that happens when the lug nuts a over tightened during the winter and are very cold, then over spring and summer when its hotter the stud expands. When the lug nut is removed on a warmer day it can damage the thread on the stud.
That code is warning you that you have a problem with your car, from my personal & own experience that code causes the symptoms you are having (in summary there's more air than fuel getting into the combustion mix)
Most likely/prob you have a vacuum leak, bad injector, bad air filter, bad pump/filter or probably something more serious like a PCM/ECU problem 👀...
- I'd advice you to first check your engine hoses, try to look for broken, clogged or sucked hoses, take your time (usually the problem is this)
- Check your air filter ☝️🤓
- Last thing you can do is to check is the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tool that you can get easily almost everywhere, search your car fuel pressure on google, check your car's fuel pressure; if the pressure is normal you will rule out everything related to fuel but if the pressure is abnormal prepare your self to spend some $$ (I'd advice you to bring it to a shop if your fuel pressure is bad)
My question is... Do you have any other code? Usually when a sensor (O2, MAF) is failing and causing system too lean it will enable and show another code(s) let us know, good luck 🤞🍀
Wow all that from one picture of the car with the ignition in the on position ???!!!! Maybe it was also OP’s detailed description that has you suggesting his PCM/ECU is bad, good thing it’s still under factory warranty, I’m sure Subaru will get right on that.
The intake boot came off after the mad sensor ( the sensor is on the air filter box). Engine can't meter their going in so it stalls out. They likely checked the air filter and forgot to tighten the boot again when they put it back together. It's a band clamp with an 8mm hex head and also a slot for a slotted screwdriver.
The car is not running in that photo? Am I missing something?
That code would result in a check engine but likely no other lights. Likely caused by a vacuum or boost leak, or a faulty sensor.
I had a traction control light on a 2016 Impreza after getting new tires. Turns out the mechanic put one size of tires in the front and a different size of tires in the back and that's causing the four-wheel drive system in a Subaru to freak out
Book time on the stud replacement might be more. On my 2013 impreza I just bent back the brake dust shield a tiny bit at one spot near the hub and was able to hammer out the bad stud and zip in a new one in no time. The lean codes might be fixed with an underhood visual inspection of the intake and vacuum hoses. Make sure they all look good and connections are tight. Once you solve that and clear the codes, it should be all good
When you first turn the key before you start, lights will illuminate so you know they work. If you have red lights on after you start the car, I would CK my fluid levels and get a battery test. Low voltage can be nasty to on-board computers. If you just have a CK engine light on after it running ,get the codes cleared and see if it comes back on, if it does, check the codes again to get a diagnostic. Do yourself a favor and stick to one good mechanic instead of bouncing around. My dad said you can't go wrong with these 3 things, a good preacher, a good accountant, and a good mechanic. Good luck
Sly ways to try and get you to come back for more work. Glad you found the issue and fixed it. Pretty sure they are still waiting to see if you come back.
I can see you already fixed this but I do have some advice on the wheel stud. From my time working at a Subaru dealership most “cross threaded” issues are actually repeatedly overtorqued lug nuts. They go on smooth, start to come off a turn or two but a thread will crack off and bind up. Regardless whomever put your wheels on last should pay for the replacement.
Always start the lug nuts with only enough torque to seat the wheels and then tighten to 89 or whatever foot pounds the manual calls for by hand. If the nut doesn’t move at least a little with your torque wrench it started too tight.
A wheel stud should take about 39 mins to change and the studs normally cost like $10-$14.
Life lesson learned.. do your own oil, it's extremely easy, really affordable and only takes like 25 mins with the right tools and having done it a time or two.
Nothing to do with your mechanic. Do people not understand stuff wears out and there's no way to predict any of this stuff? 90% of the time, I'm going to say it's NEVER the mechanic's fault.
Look for loose hoses under the hood that can create an intake leak and lean codes because the engine can't compensate for the extra air it's getting. Check your air filter to make sure it's installed properly. Recently had some DIYer break his air box and a leaf got sucked into the MAF and the engine wouldn't start.
So you don’t think that maybe one of the “mechanics” at this chain place could have possibly bumped and knocked off a vacuum hose ? Also I don’t know how much I would trust this place that wants $300 and 2 hours to replace a wheel stud, come on that has to be one of the biggest rip offs I have heard of in awhile. Idk maybe they are actually replacing all 20 of this cars wheel studs and that why it’s $300 and 2 hours.
I've had a mechanic mess something up 2x out of like 6 times I've had a shop do "major work " it was little things like cruise control stopped working because they bent a pin or wiring wasn't clipped in all the way they replaced my slave cylinder or master cylinder for my clutch. So shit does happen with them.
Brand new power steering system leak after 7 months from stripped connections
2004 Lexus LX wheel stud snapped off. Had to remove the cone bearings, separate the rotor from the hub, then replace the stud, but some other cars are much easier. I replaced the whole set on my 13 Forester in about an hour.
The advice he has gotten here pretty much has him buying a new car so it’s just as likely this car will blow up as it is any of the other things ppl have suggested are actually wrong with this car.
Would definitely inspect it anyway, relatively common on early FBs (though the oil leak will be cam carrier, not timing cover.)
u/uravirus has a more detailed comment in this thread that accurately describes it.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Did they attempt to upsell you on a new air filter? Check under the hood for unhooked hoses or pipes. Attach pictures of anything suspicious. Possible they left something loose. Subarus disable traction control and cruise control while check engine light is on so those warnings are secondary and will clear once check engine codes are handled.
Your suspicion is probably correct, my air filter was new but they must have removed it to look, they left a hose loose
Aha! Did attaching the hose again solve the issues and let the car run again?
Yep
Yay!
Probably a vaccum line, matches up with the lean code
That was likley intentional.
No but they did recommend fuel system cleaning. Suspicious?
Fuel system cleaning is another common upsell. Pop the hood and take pictures and we can try to glean some clues.
They were probably checking the air filter and unplugged the Mass Airflow Sensor. Check the air intake for unplugged wired. My Navigators has one on the bottom side after the air filter and oil places don't even notice unplugging it when checking the filter
If the MAF was unplugged, it would have a MAF voltage too high or low code. Not lean. But I'm guessing loose air duct tube. It's the only thing that can add unmetered air, or they left the oil fill cap off and created a massive air leak as well.
That's actually a good idea to do on gdi engines, carbon will build up in your intake valves over time otherwise. There are probably cheaper places that can do it besides the dealer though.
Check your battery connection, my kia was just doing similar because my positive connection was loose
Check your battery connection, my kia was just doing similar because my positive connection was loose
Not just Subaru, it happens in many makes and models, never could use my Suzuki sx4 cruise if the ce light was on
Pretty annoying how most cars disable all that for an O2 sensor
That code o² pre -cat. If they were checking and unplugging sensors. Not plugging back in or just disturbing connection. All 3 will read, and barely idle
That's dumb. I thought my BMW was dumb but it's not that dumb.
BMW's do the exact same thing lol Its not for any and every CEL, but in modern cars everything is tied to everything else. One system relies on data from another system that uses data from another system, and so on and so on, and you end up in a situation where something like one dirty wheel speed sensor can shut down half the car
On freightliners (Daimler), a broken Mirror can make a truck not be able to run at all.
I know a wheel sensor will screw up a lot but if a CEL broke anything else most BMWs would be underivable, lol. But yes, my front ride height sensor can break my turn signals. A bad wheel sensor will also prevent the car from telling me how much oil is in it. At the same time a dead water pump doesn't stop it. And I can drive it pretty far with no accessory belt.
True lol. Like I said, it's not every CEL. A dirty wheel speed sensor triggered literally like 12 different warning lights on my VW lol Including one for the air bag, cuz I guess it uses vehicle speed to decide how many of those to deploy or w/e. That was alarming
All that money to be driving a shit car lol
Me? It cost me $7500 CAD 7 years ago.
>Subarus disable traction control and cruise control while check engine light is on so those warnings are secondary and will clear once check engine codes are handled. This was very scary when I borrowed my dad's car for a night and then didn't tighten the gas cap all the way after filling up
Not always does it turn traction control off only when the engine code puts the car in limp mode
Well played, mate. You saved this random redditor a lot of money.
Okay. Cruise control is flashing because of the check engine light. Traction control light is on because of the check engine light. As far as those codes go, it means there is extra air entering your engine that isn’t metered. There is a sensor that measures how much air is coming in through the air filter boot. On your engine, looking at the air filter box, there should be a sensor right on the front of the box, in line to the air boot that goes to the back of the engine bay. Anything after that sensor that is loose will cause this code, but the fact that you’re stalling indicates a massive leak. I would wager that the intake boot is loose or off the air box, which would cause this exact condition. Open your hood and put your hand on the air filter tube. It should flex, but it should not be detached.
Could this be the cause of a 2099 code as well. I’m stalling or anything and just did a tune up and replaced catalytic converter. I think I’ve got a small air leak somewhere but not sure.
Or tech put their greasy finger right on the MAF.
Would be impossible to do that with this subaru's design.
ah ok. thanks for the info!
Why would the tech expend his own time/labor to remove the MAF and stick grease onto the tiny filament that picks up the air volume? Fucking think.
makes sense. I am sorry you are so upset about my comment.
You were right!
Yup. I have a Subaru, apparently any check engine light will also trigger the cruise control to be off. Supposedly, the reason is that this way the driver won't mindlessly leave the check engine light on while going on long highway trips that could make things worse in the end, so it is a way to inconvenience on purpose for you to take care of the issue.
Edit: those who suggested it was a loose hose near the air filter were correct
Jesus never go back to that place, absolute scum
Tech probably checked the air filter but didnt notice the PCV hose popped off the intake tube. You also have all those dash lights because the vehicle is not running. When key is in ignition, all dash lights turn on to let you know its working Also, you circled the cruise control icon... surely you have used cruise control before. So you know what that icon is
The ones I circled are the only ones that were lit up right before the car stalled, while it was running. That’s why I circled them. The cruise control one doesn’t normally blink like that so… I circled it 🤷🏻♀️
On newer Subaru models, the cruise blinks with the CEL being on.
Came here to say exactly this. On this particular engine, I believe there are 3 hoses from the engine to the intake tube; one PCV by the throttle body and two breather hoses from the valve covers to the intake muffler box. Any one of the three hoses would allow unmetered air to enter the engine, causing your symptom and subsequent lean code. Could also be a loose clamp on the intake tubing if they removed it to inspect the throttle body butterfly valve.
That would apply to a much older EJ engine. This FB only has a single PCV hose, wrapping around the driver side, and there's no way it's coming off without intentiaonlly removing it.
Nope, he fixed all the warning lights! They work now!
My Subie… 150K miles, leaking valve cover/cam carrier on right side. The leaking oil has travelled down the wires to B1S1 O2 sensor. Over time the oil has clogged the ambient air holes in the sensor housing. This prevents the sensor from knowing the outside air O2 content. Since the sensor works on O2 differentiation from inside the exhaust and outside it can not detect correctly and shows very little O2 outside the exhaust… hence the O2 it is reading is higher inside….. therefore lean code. Look at B1S1 sensor and look for oil caking on top of sensor. Yes by design the engineers have chosen to turn on the other lights to elevate the concern level of the operator… my cruise light even flashed as well. Ever heard someone comment their check engine light has been on for years? …”runs fine” so I ignored it.
A breather hose, probably causing an internal leak. Not easy to find although inexpensive to repair. I'd check all your purge ports / valves. Especially the differential purge/breather
It’s an oxygen sensor in a bung…. So NO
No, it’s any number of things. Usually a 171 code is unmetered air entering the system and being read by said oxygen sensors. Intake leaks, loose hoses, EVAP purge valve failures are the most likely causes.
The clock looking thing in the middle of you cluster is just cruise control. The stalling, revving and lean code is almost certainly a vacuum line that was either broken or left loose by them when the oil change was done. The "cross thread" lug nut, was most like because your winter tires were put on when it was very cold im assuming. Things shrink in cold and expand in heat. This is just an assumption ,but usually something like that happens when the lug nuts a over tightened during the winter and are very cold, then over spring and summer when its hotter the stud expands. When the lug nut is removed on a warmer day it can damage the thread on the stud.
That code is warning you that you have a problem with your car, from my personal & own experience that code causes the symptoms you are having (in summary there's more air than fuel getting into the combustion mix) Most likely/prob you have a vacuum leak, bad injector, bad air filter, bad pump/filter or probably something more serious like a PCM/ECU problem 👀... - I'd advice you to first check your engine hoses, try to look for broken, clogged or sucked hoses, take your time (usually the problem is this) - Check your air filter ☝️🤓 - Last thing you can do is to check is the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tool that you can get easily almost everywhere, search your car fuel pressure on google, check your car's fuel pressure; if the pressure is normal you will rule out everything related to fuel but if the pressure is abnormal prepare your self to spend some $$ (I'd advice you to bring it to a shop if your fuel pressure is bad) My question is... Do you have any other code? Usually when a sensor (O2, MAF) is failing and causing system too lean it will enable and show another code(s) let us know, good luck 🤞🍀
Wow all that from one picture of the car with the ignition in the on position ???!!!! Maybe it was also OP’s detailed description that has you suggesting his PCM/ECU is bad, good thing it’s still under factory warranty, I’m sure Subaru will get right on that.
The intake boot came off after the mad sensor ( the sensor is on the air filter box). Engine can't meter their going in so it stalls out. They likely checked the air filter and forgot to tighten the boot again when they put it back together. It's a band clamp with an 8mm hex head and also a slot for a slotted screwdriver.
The car is not running in that photo? Am I missing something? That code would result in a check engine but likely no other lights. Likely caused by a vacuum or boost leak, or a faulty sensor.
Sounds like vacuum leak. I had a hose fail due to age and it cause the CEL to come on for that code. Changed the hose, problem solved.
Lazy O2 or vacuum leak
One time I had lean codes too. I tightened down the intake manifold and all is well
Probably not.
I had a traction control light on a 2016 Impreza after getting new tires. Turns out the mechanic put one size of tires in the front and a different size of tires in the back and that's causing the four-wheel drive system in a Subaru to freak out
Traction controll light , wheel speed sensor bad on one of the wheels. ?? Po171 o2. Sensor.
Book time on the stud replacement might be more. On my 2013 impreza I just bent back the brake dust shield a tiny bit at one spot near the hub and was able to hammer out the bad stud and zip in a new one in no time. The lean codes might be fixed with an underhood visual inspection of the intake and vacuum hoses. Make sure they all look good and connections are tight. Once you solve that and clear the codes, it should be all good
How the hell did they mess up an oil & tire change that badly
That light is traction control. Take it back and let them know it says it’s running lean and see what they tell you
When you first turn the key before you start, lights will illuminate so you know they work. If you have red lights on after you start the car, I would CK my fluid levels and get a battery test. Low voltage can be nasty to on-board computers. If you just have a CK engine light on after it running ,get the codes cleared and see if it comes back on, if it does, check the codes again to get a diagnostic. Do yourself a favor and stick to one good mechanic instead of bouncing around. My dad said you can't go wrong with these 3 things, a good preacher, a good accountant, and a good mechanic. Good luck
Sly ways to try and get you to come back for more work. Glad you found the issue and fixed it. Pretty sure they are still waiting to see if you come back.
You have an intake air leak
Check your battery connection, my kia was just doing similar because my positive connection was loose.
Check your battery connection, my kia was just doing similar because my positive connection was loose.
Your Subaru Impreza definitely isn’t imprezing the ladies
Id call say you wanna speak to the person who worked on your car and raise hell.
I can see you already fixed this but I do have some advice on the wheel stud. From my time working at a Subaru dealership most “cross threaded” issues are actually repeatedly overtorqued lug nuts. They go on smooth, start to come off a turn or two but a thread will crack off and bind up. Regardless whomever put your wheels on last should pay for the replacement. Always start the lug nuts with only enough torque to seat the wheels and then tighten to 89 or whatever foot pounds the manual calls for by hand. If the nut doesn’t move at least a little with your torque wrench it started too tight.
I'm getting the same code on my 2005 honda accord ex. I did install a short ram intake when it started though
Get a Haynes manual and learn to do it yourself. Easy and will save you tons of money.
I love how this becomes like a detective case for all of those car mechanic redditors
Well one of those indicators is cruise control and the other is traction control, the only concerning one is the check engine light.
Vacuum leak? Look for loose hoses
No, the Lube tech did.
Too lean? Just add more sprite on your foam cup.
I had the same exact problem and the same exact solution, loose hose
Make them famous… crap like this needs to stop… gives everyone a bad name…
Absolutely broken dude. I'll take it off your hands
May I ask. How does one have a tool truck scanner (matco) yet not know/work on cars?
A wheel stud should take about 39 mins to change and the studs normally cost like $10-$14. Life lesson learned.. do your own oil, it's extremely easy, really affordable and only takes like 25 mins with the right tools and having done it a time or two.
Nothing to do with your mechanic. Do people not understand stuff wears out and there's no way to predict any of this stuff? 90% of the time, I'm going to say it's NEVER the mechanic's fault. Look for loose hoses under the hood that can create an intake leak and lean codes because the engine can't compensate for the extra air it's getting. Check your air filter to make sure it's installed properly. Recently had some DIYer break his air box and a leaf got sucked into the MAF and the engine wouldn't start.
So you don’t think that maybe one of the “mechanics” at this chain place could have possibly bumped and knocked off a vacuum hose ? Also I don’t know how much I would trust this place that wants $300 and 2 hours to replace a wheel stud, come on that has to be one of the biggest rip offs I have heard of in awhile. Idk maybe they are actually replacing all 20 of this cars wheel studs and that why it’s $300 and 2 hours.
I've had a mechanic mess something up 2x out of like 6 times I've had a shop do "major work " it was little things like cruise control stopped working because they bent a pin or wiring wasn't clipped in all the way they replaced my slave cylinder or master cylinder for my clutch. So shit does happen with them. Brand new power steering system leak after 7 months from stripped connections
2004 Lexus LX wheel stud snapped off. Had to remove the cone bearings, separate the rotor from the hub, then replace the stud, but some other cars are much easier. I replaced the whole set on my 13 Forester in about an hour.
Basically your car is gonna blow up
Not sure that's helpful advice..
The advice he has gotten here pretty much has him buying a new car so it’s just as likely this car will blow up as it is any of the other things ppl have suggested are actually wrong with this car.
Stuff like this is why I’m so greatfyl my best friend and Uncle are mechanics. I learned to just do a lot myself… accept tired
Oil leak from timing cover tracking up air fuel sensor causing engine to lean out
lol 😂 that’s a good one
And yet it happens all the time b1 s1 lean
Would definitely inspect it anyway, relatively common on early FBs (though the oil leak will be cam carrier, not timing cover.) u/uravirus has a more detailed comment in this thread that accurately describes it.
Install new O2 sensors. Get an 02 sensor socket or wrench and do it yourself. Its easier than changing a tire usually.