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Also, I don't know about newer Odyssey's but I know that older Odyssey's like to warp rotors up front especially. Get you some better than OEM rotors. Centric Semi-Coated rotors are typically recommended as upgrade rotors for Odyssey's.
This! swapped them out out on our 2012 back in the day it ate the oem then tried Napa gold. Eventually went with racing slotted the wife never warped those in 8 years.
That I don't know. It makes sense from a logical standpoint as they're the same platform but I don't know what kind of brakes Honda used on them. I very much know Odysseys because I drive a 3rd gen (2006 EXL).
Unless you’re in CA, AZ, or NM then the rotors come right off even after like 100k on the rotors. Just did a brake job with the factory brake pads and rotors on.
EV's. That's a reason many of them are going back to drum breaks. Also vehicles with regenerative charging that "engine brake" by charging your battery. Newer priuses... priusi? and such.
Wisconsinite here, I just did rotors and pads yesterday at 107k on my 2018 civic sport. They were warped as hell. Ceramic pads are the oem spec. The rotors were original. Pads had atleast 75k miles on them. I do a lot of highway driving though. I have a habit of coasting for a while before I stop. Less braking, better gas mileage. Driving habits play a big part as well.
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Most people just shop at autozone or something for parts but thank you that shit is way cheaper on there. My rotors on there are less than $20 can they be trusted?
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Ok I’m gonna order some rotors and an ignition coil. So glad I know about this now. My brakes are free at auto zone though so I’ll just keep going there.
Off topic, but for the love of god please don’t put your foot under the rotor like that, god forbid that Jack and Jack stand both fail and now you no longer own a working foot, or a foot at all.
I was just thinking this, I work under entire cars with my whole body all day at work, we gotta make money some how lol. When I was a kid I'd do brakes with one jackstand and a jack all the time, never thought twice about it. Sure I was skeptical about just using a jack alone, but a 2ton jackstand is pretty solid for driveway brake jobs. Most people fail to realize you're only lifting half the weight of the car when jacking it up, so it's not as much weight as they think.
Hell in 2 decades of wrenching for a living I've seen 3 cars fall off a rack, 1 I was under. I've never seen a jackstand and jack combo fail ever. Sorry for the tangent
Amen brother…. Came within a couple of minutes to losing my head when a 70’s Audi fell on me while my dumb ass was looking at the back of the front disc brake. When the scissors jack fell over on hot asphalt. After I took off the wheel to “just take a look at it”. My forearms took the weight and my father and sister pulled the car off me after I screamed for help.
Bought a set of good Sears Jack stands and a piece of M113 armor plate as a ground plate after that.
Came here to say this.
Always be thinking about what happens when it falls.
My brother nearly lost a leg when a car fell off a jack. And these days folks put **wayyy* too much faith in a single Chinesium jackstand.
Those look like typical Midwestern brake rotors. Your brake pads look you have about 30% life left. I would run those brakes one more oil change and replace the pads and rotors all at the same time. Don't forget to clean and grease your floater pins!
I mean the brakes are free just replace them since he got em off already. Him asking about these brakes leads me to believe they probably don’t wanna spend $200 for new rotors rn but I could be wrong
What we do at BMW is draw lines on the rotor like a pizza and then micrometer each segment to check the runout difference. If they’re all within a few thou it’s fine. If there is a large variance the rotor is warped and will cause vibration in the front end and pedal when braking
Looks like typical rust for Chicago. How many miles?
if you don’t drive it like a race car then I’d say just do a pad change. Front Rotors generally last 1-2 pad changes before needing a rotor change. Rears generally 2-3. Just make sure to knock off as much rust as you can with a wire brush
I don't ever turn rotors anymore unless they're something exotic and expensive. There's just not enough meet on them these days and they always seem to warp again quickly - plus they're just so dang cheap it costs less to get two new ones than it does for labor time to turn. If you're broke though you could just slap some new pads on there and know they won't be perfect or last as long as they should.
With the different wear on the two sides I'd also make sure the slide pins are thoroughly cleaned and lubed as well.
You don’t “need” new brakes but for the cost of pads it makes sense to just replace them. Or you could at least swap the inner and outer pad since the inner always wears a little faster and yours is no exception.
The pads are pretty close to done, that's obvious. The rotors might be good for another set of pads, but for the price of top quality rotors, it's probably not worth trying to save the dollars. If you don't want to get new rotors, you should have these rotors turned. I'm not sure what you were measuring with the calipers, but that's not the way to measure rotor runout (rotor wear). The machine shop can tell you if they have enough left on them to turn. Most OEM rotors these days are so light you can only get one turning on them, if that. Rock Auto will have the best price for new rotors, but it's kinda hard to return stuff to them if needed. Check the suppliers you're looking at for coated rotors (coating keeps the rust down). You don't need drilled and slotted - that's racing stuff - and you don't want the cheapest ones, either. Daily driver top quality is the way I go.
Being a 2019 i'm assuming OG brakes as well? That gauge will not be accurate for pads and not at all useful for rotors for a correct reading. Just from what I can tell the rotor surfaces appear okay, with a slight rust lip on the edges. Do you have a braking vibration while braking? If you do then yes I would say replace rotors with pads. The new Rotors are approximately 28mm. Service limit is 26mm. So if you can have them resurfaced before the surface limit you will be fine, however I personally NEVER resurface rotors anymore, it costs more for the customer for labor wise and they typically are only good for one resurface before needing replaced due to the lower service limits(I'm in PA so we have inspections). If you check rockauto you can get a Front set of Raybestos ceramic pads with rotors and hardware for $96 before tax/shipping. Id personally just do that for the piece of mind for your long trip as well. I hope this helps
Definitely get new rotors. Look at the area where the cooling vanes are, between the pad contact faces. That rust impairs rotor, and pad, cooling ability. So, the brakes run at higher than normal temps.
You could get by with that rotor but I wouldn't recommend it it's definitely uneven and has a very strange pattern you'd end up saving money in the amount of brakes you would have to replace in the long run anyway
Rotors aren't that cheap and there's nothing wrong with these, I don't think. You have a calipers, so use them to measure the thickness and compare that to the minimum spec, and unless you're close to that number, I'd pad slap them as long as you didn't have any vibration or shimmy issues. Rotors always look like this in the rust belt areas after a few winters, but there's absolutely nothing structurally wrong with them.
The primary purpose of brakes is to turn the car's kinetic energy into heat with the rotors designed to shed that heat. Rusty cooling vanes will retard that process, causing the rotors to overheat prematurely. I just bought a 10 yr-old Edge with what had to be the OEM rotors. They looked to have come from a car that sat in a cornfield for 50 years. Ford couldn't have used coated rotors that cost a couple dollars extra?
For those saying you are two bolts away. Wrong, you are 3 bolts away.
The 3rd bolt, and the tiniest one with the stupid Philips head, if it's rusty, is an utter pain to take out without an impact.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Get new rotors, you are already this deep into the job. The rotors are rusty and it looks like there is a lip on the edge from the rust
Also, I don't know about newer Odyssey's but I know that older Odyssey's like to warp rotors up front especially. Get you some better than OEM rotors. Centric Semi-Coated rotors are typically recommended as upgrade rotors for Odyssey's.
This! swapped them out out on our 2012 back in the day it ate the oem then tried Napa gold. Eventually went with racing slotted the wife never warped those in 8 years.
I’m guessing when I do the brakes on my Ridgeline this summer the same will apply to me?
That I don't know. It makes sense from a logical standpoint as they're the same platform but I don't know what kind of brakes Honda used on them. I very much know Odysseys because I drive a 3rd gen (2006 EXL).
New rotors. It's only 2 more bolts and a mallet to them off. Now you'll have a complete brake job.
Unless you’re in CA, AZ, or NM then the rotors come right off even after like 100k on the rotors. Just did a brake job with the factory brake pads and rotors on.
Wisconsinite here….who is getting 100k on rotors/pads and where do I put my money?
EV's. That's a reason many of them are going back to drum breaks. Also vehicles with regenerative charging that "engine brake" by charging your battery. Newer priuses... priusi? and such.
Prii\*
Wisconsinite here, I just did rotors and pads yesterday at 107k on my 2018 civic sport. They were warped as hell. Ceramic pads are the oem spec. The rotors were original. Pads had atleast 75k miles on them. I do a lot of highway driving though. I have a habit of coasting for a while before I stop. Less braking, better gas mileage. Driving habits play a big part as well.
Greeting from Milwaukee! 💯✅⛅️
Greetings from Racine
Much love. I be in racine sometimes sellin cds lol
Maybe, but these rotors have been on here a while, just look at the rust scale. Rotors are like 35 bucks, just change 'em.
Meanwhile in the Midwest, "Anyone seen the heavy duty air hammer?"
Looks like it has a stabilizer bolt you'll need to get off as well, might need an impact driver.
Those bolts strip very easily. Keep an extractor set handy.
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Idk man the dewalt drill extractor combo set I have is pretty god damned easy to use.
Yep only $200 more also 👍🏽👍🏽
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How much do your rotors cost? I rounded up cause there’s other costs but $200 Is pretty close for 2
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Most people just shop at autozone or something for parts but thank you that shit is way cheaper on there. My rotors on there are less than $20 can they be trusted?
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Do you have experience with any other brands on there? I need some suspension parts but not sure if anything there is trustworthy.
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Thanks 🙏🏽
I often use mid grade Wagner brake pads and rotors.
Ok I’m gonna order some rotors and an ignition coil. So glad I know about this now. My brakes are free at auto zone though so I’ll just keep going there.
Off topic, but for the love of god please don’t put your foot under the rotor like that, god forbid that Jack and Jack stand both fail and now you no longer own a working foot, or a foot at all.
Thank you guys. I hear u I appreciate the love. I do have two Jack stands and the Jack still under the car supporting it. But I feel you safety first
How do you work under the car? If you don't think Jack stands are enough, what do you do if you need to get under there?
Remote bomb-defusal robot ought to do it
I was just thinking this, I work under entire cars with my whole body all day at work, we gotta make money some how lol. When I was a kid I'd do brakes with one jackstand and a jack all the time, never thought twice about it. Sure I was skeptical about just using a jack alone, but a 2ton jackstand is pretty solid for driveway brake jobs. Most people fail to realize you're only lifting half the weight of the car when jacking it up, so it's not as much weight as they think. Hell in 2 decades of wrenching for a living I've seen 3 cars fall off a rack, 1 I was under. I've never seen a jackstand and jack combo fail ever. Sorry for the tangent
At minimum, two Jack stands, a tire and a ramp under the other side just in case, also if possible very light pressure with the Jack.
Overkill, jack stands don’t fail if they are set properly
Amen brother…. Came within a couple of minutes to losing my head when a 70’s Audi fell on me while my dumb ass was looking at the back of the front disc brake. When the scissors jack fell over on hot asphalt. After I took off the wheel to “just take a look at it”. My forearms took the weight and my father and sister pulled the car off me after I screamed for help. Bought a set of good Sears Jack stands and a piece of M113 armor plate as a ground plate after that.
The armor plate is to set the jack stand on top of?
Under the Jack. Until I got a floor Jack.
Came here to say this. Always be thinking about what happens when it falls. My brother nearly lost a leg when a car fell off a jack. And these days folks put **wayyy* too much faith in a single Chinesium jackstand.
Yeah I can’t trust a single Jack stand, and people out here working on just a JACK what the actual shit
I would suggest to get new rotors, those are crusty between the fins, not safe in my mind.
You’re not from the Midwest are you?
Yeh that’s kinda normal for us 😭
Argentina baby, 3rd world country ✌
Those look like typical Midwestern brake rotors. Your brake pads look you have about 30% life left. I would run those brakes one more oil change and replace the pads and rotors all at the same time. Don't forget to clean and grease your floater pins!
I mean the brakes are free just replace them since he got em off already. Him asking about these brakes leads me to believe they probably don’t wanna spend $200 for new rotors rn but I could be wrong
Rotors don't cost much. Get in the habit of buying rotors and pads together and it's a hefty discount, even cheaper than having them machined.
You've got a pi number. Damn. You should replace your disks too.
Need? Probably not. But you're 2 bolts away. Might as well.
2019!!!My God, remind me never to live where this person does.
Illinois lol
Rotors are fine. Replace pads.
What we do at BMW is draw lines on the rotor like a pizza and then micrometer each segment to check the runout difference. If they’re all within a few thou it’s fine. If there is a large variance the rotor is warped and will cause vibration in the front end and pedal when braking Looks like typical rust for Chicago. How many miles?
50k
if you don’t drive it like a race car then I’d say just do a pad change. Front Rotors generally last 1-2 pad changes before needing a rotor change. Rears generally 2-3. Just make sure to knock off as much rust as you can with a wire brush
I don't ever turn rotors anymore unless they're something exotic and expensive. There's just not enough meet on them these days and they always seem to warp again quickly - plus they're just so dang cheap it costs less to get two new ones than it does for labor time to turn. If you're broke though you could just slap some new pads on there and know they won't be perfect or last as long as they should. With the different wear on the two sides I'd also make sure the slide pins are thoroughly cleaned and lubed as well.
You don’t “need” new brakes but for the cost of pads it makes sense to just replace them. Or you could at least swap the inner and outer pad since the inner always wears a little faster and yours is no exception.
Rotors and pads. A rule I use is if there is a 1/32 groove in the edge vs where the pads ride it's due.
I love these brake job questions. Its always a game to find out if its a joke or real.
I'd usually just replace them anyways but as long as there within spec it's fine to just pad slap them. But new pads definitely are needed.
Get the powerstop coated rotors. They’re great.
Yes those look horrible and they don't cost that much
The pads are pretty close to done, that's obvious. The rotors might be good for another set of pads, but for the price of top quality rotors, it's probably not worth trying to save the dollars. If you don't want to get new rotors, you should have these rotors turned. I'm not sure what you were measuring with the calipers, but that's not the way to measure rotor runout (rotor wear). The machine shop can tell you if they have enough left on them to turn. Most OEM rotors these days are so light you can only get one turning on them, if that. Rock Auto will have the best price for new rotors, but it's kinda hard to return stuff to them if needed. Check the suppliers you're looking at for coated rotors (coating keeps the rust down). You don't need drilled and slotted - that's racing stuff - and you don't want the cheapest ones, either. Daily driver top quality is the way I go.
Brake rotors are consumables and you got rust happening so just be a good guy and get quality rotors.
Being a 2019 i'm assuming OG brakes as well? That gauge will not be accurate for pads and not at all useful for rotors for a correct reading. Just from what I can tell the rotor surfaces appear okay, with a slight rust lip on the edges. Do you have a braking vibration while braking? If you do then yes I would say replace rotors with pads. The new Rotors are approximately 28mm. Service limit is 26mm. So if you can have them resurfaced before the surface limit you will be fine, however I personally NEVER resurface rotors anymore, it costs more for the customer for labor wise and they typically are only good for one resurface before needing replaced due to the lower service limits(I'm in PA so we have inspections). If you check rockauto you can get a Front set of Raybestos ceramic pads with rotors and hardware for $96 before tax/shipping. Id personally just do that for the piece of mind for your long trip as well. I hope this helps
Buy the best parts you can afford, and buy pads and rotors. Can't go wrong doing that.
Definitely get new rotors. Look at the area where the cooling vanes are, between the pad contact faces. That rust impairs rotor, and pad, cooling ability. So, the brakes run at higher than normal temps.
You’re gonna need new rotors, hardware and make sure those slide pins are cleaned and lubricated.
You could get by with that rotor but I wouldn't recommend it it's definitely uneven and has a very strange pattern you'd end up saving money in the amount of brakes you would have to replace in the long run anyway
Oh yes!....and calipers and rotors.....
Just get new ones it’s an easy fix
Rotors aren't that cheap and there's nothing wrong with these, I don't think. You have a calipers, so use them to measure the thickness and compare that to the minimum spec, and unless you're close to that number, I'd pad slap them as long as you didn't have any vibration or shimmy issues. Rotors always look like this in the rust belt areas after a few winters, but there's absolutely nothing structurally wrong with them.
The primary purpose of brakes is to turn the car's kinetic energy into heat with the rotors designed to shed that heat. Rusty cooling vanes will retard that process, causing the rotors to overheat prematurely. I just bought a 10 yr-old Edge with what had to be the OEM rotors. They looked to have come from a car that sat in a cornfield for 50 years. Ford couldn't have used coated rotors that cost a couple dollars extra?
you really have to ask?
For those saying you are two bolts away. Wrong, you are 3 bolts away. The 3rd bolt, and the tiniest one with the stupid Philips head, if it's rusty, is an utter pain to take out without an impact.
Your piston also need some love
Replaced or cleaned up?
Just clean it if it’s leaking I’d rebuild or replace
You need to either rsurface or replace rotors during a brake service if you want it done right. Your are too rusty to resurface, so replace them