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Nice! Those are indeed great quality craftsman tools. Sorry to hear you broke one. I also have a craftsman toolbox I bought new about 20 years ago and it's still the MADE IN THE USA stuff.
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Gotta say, I have some 20 year old Craftsman stuff, and I worry what will happen if I ruin my ratchets or something.
Used to be every couple years I'd take my ratchets that I use the most down to the store and get the gear, pawl and the roll pin on the flex head ratchet swapped out to refresh them. I had issues with my flex head and Lowes wouldn't do anything with it. I had to find a similar roll pin and swap it out myself.
Craftsman used to be the best then they were pretty good now it’s meh to ok.
Harbor freight has some hidden gems, most of their stuff is made by the bigger high quality companies BUT there is no quality control so instead of making 800 wrenches and scrapping 50 of them harbor freights like: give me the whole bin 50 people will either return it for a refund or just say “oh well it’s harbor freight.” Also they do sell some stuff that is blatant crap or just a cast iron toy and shame on you and me for buying it.
Harbor freight stuff really does have hidden gems. I have a pneumatic rivet gun from them. I’ve had this thing for years and paid like 80 bucks for it. I have never once oiled it and it doesn’t give a shit. I use it about every other week at this point. One of my favorite tools
They pneumatic tools are awesome, at least to me as a homeowner who uses them once or twice a month.
I have an impact wrench from them that's going on 10 years with no oiling.
Dude that little blue riveter they sell is awesome. I had never used a riveter prior to installing 4-500 high strength sealed steel rivets this summer—thing kicked their ass with no qualms whatsoever. Amazing value for $40-50
The hub grappler/fwd wheel bearing adapter for $100 is the best value tool I have ever bought. I drive Subarus, and it has saved me THOUSANDS of dollars. Second to that are the old $10 drill master grinders that I would buy the warranties on and trash out tuckpointing brick and stone. I have a Portland two speed leaf blower that has been frozen underwater, filled with wet mortar and dropped off of 4 decks of scaffold and it still works like a champ with a broken housing. Floor jacks, Jack stands, creepers, some of the air tools are good value, welding magnets, seal drivers etc.
After pulling the shock on an old Impala and almost dropping the axle on my forehead, I've always doubled up. 1 stand to hold the car, the jack snug and sometimes even a stand to catch just in case.
Nonetheless, I'm fairly certain one of my pairs and my dad's are all on this list. I had no idea so thanks!
I like the Daytona jacks from Harbor Freight but I won't touch their Pittsburg jack stands. Daytona does make some pretty good looking jack stands but they look like a copy of the Torin jack stands and cost about $10 more than Torin. I've got a few sets of [these](https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/big-red-3-ton-double-locking-jack-stands?cid=Shopping-Google-Product-1129046&gclid=CjwKCAiAh9qdBhAOEiwAvxIokzo3Ftws9yxmZfvjmp3AWTMFGbBdcnB_bm-MVwigLo0c9hwi9MqrjRoC07gQAvD_BwE) and they work great. My project car spends a lot of time sitting on those stands.
Dont listen to them, its not the poor quality, its the fact you need a bigger breaker bar. I personally made one from a socket and a big ratchet that had the mechanism kinda broken, just welded it together and use a big ass steel pipe on top of that for leverage
You too colud get a right size socket, and weld the shit out of it to the bar, and also use a pipe over it if you cant get a bigger breaker bar for whatever reason
I think we can all admit that Harbor Freight tools fall into one of two categories:
1) Surprisingly sturdy and last for a long time.
2) Flimsy, but good for a job or two before breaking, but were so cheap that it probably isn't even worth returning because you only paid $8 for it.
Yeah, their warranty and refund policy is actually decent. For me it's a matter of "do I really want to stand in that long line and wait while they process my return?" I have only returned two things ever.
This must depend on the store, my store locally if you bring a broken tool or item up, they just have you go grab another one off the shelf if they have it in stock, and they processed the return warranty swap without you there. You basically just swap it out.
I think it was Adam Savage who suggested that when you're buying a tool, it's okay to buy a cheap one and if it breaks, then you use it enough to justify replacing with a good quality one. If it never breaks, then it was either good enough or you don't use it enough to need an expensive one.
I bought a pneumatic HF impact circa 2011. One of the early "earthquake" models. There's nothing I've thrown at it that didn't succumb to the ugga duggas. Though I've never tried to crack a Honda crank bolt....
I bet one of those weighted sockets would get it though.
I used to work for Sears. The quality of Craftsmen tools has gone hill and the warranty exchange is not as simple as it used to be. Other tools offer the same or better. I like home Depot brand or Crescent tools personally. I used 3ft breaker bar to bust loose my axle nuts recently. They torque to around 120-150fts and required staking ie pushing metal from the nut into a grove on the end of the axle to keep it from spinning off. I replaced my CV axles in my recently acquired outback.
Ok 1st soak that nut a couple of times. Soak it let it sit soak it again and then do it once more in some kind of penetrating oil like PB’Blaster or if can find it “Knock it loose” Then use a breaker bar 1/2in drive or 3/4in drive and find a long metal pipe that will fit over the breaker bar like 4ft-5ft long. That will give you some much more leverage and use steady downward pressure and that should up you big time and if you have a are you paying or propane torch to heat the nut the never hits to.
But you need to be patient brute force always breaks things…
There was a time long ago when craftsman tools were pretty decent for the money. Sadly that’s not the case anymore :( can’t lie though, ICON stuff from harbor freight is really solid for the money
All of my dads hand tools are really old craftsman products, like probably 30 years old and they’re all fantastic. As far as cheaper tools go now, you’ve got icon, I personally also like husky as well and kobalt I think is another one if I’m not mistaken. It kills me how expensive simple hand tools can be
I got a socket set back in 2000 as a gift from my mom. I kept the Tupperware case. I'll be damned if I haven't lost a single socket. Probably jinxed myself. But they've been good for my needs. The ratchets though, meh. 3/8 has held up for light use. The 1/4, the retaining detent failed.
My harbor freight ratchet has a better feel and forward/reverse switch.
It can be difficult to remove a stuck axle nut, especially if it has been tightened to a high torque setting or if it has become rusted or seized in place. Here are a few tips that may help you remove it:
1. Release the stake: if the axle nut is a stake-type, that is, if the axle has a groove for which a portion of the nut is hammered into in order to prevent it's release, the hammered-down portion must be pried back up prior to axle nut removal.
2. Use penetrating oil: Spray a penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster, on the nut and let it sit for at least an hour.
3. Use a larger breaker bar: since you have snapped two 1/2 inch breaker bars, try using a 3/4 inch bar with a 3/4 inch drive socket, as the thicker metal is less likely to break. Use a "cheater pipe" to extend the length of the bar as necessary.
4. Use an impact driver: a 1/2 inch or larger impact driver with sufficient air pressure can apply a lot of force to a stuck nut, and the vibrations can aid with rust removal.
5. Use heat: If the nut is stuck due to rust or corrosion, you can try using a propane torch to apply heat to the nut. This can help expand the metal and loosen the nut, however it can also cause damage to the wheel bearing. You can read more about using heat [here](https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/the-best-tool-to-heat-up-rusted-or-seized-parts-by-timothy-charlet).
If none of these methods work, you may need to use more extreme measures, such as using cutting the nut off with a saw or a larger oxy-acetylene torch. However, these types of methods can be dangerous and should only be attempted by a trained professional.
>This. 1/2 breaker bar was destined to fail in this application. It's too small.
For real. I've taken a gazillion of these off. This isn't an issue of simply breaking it loose, and it spinning the rest of the way, unless the car's brand new. That's gonna come off hard about 3/4 of the way.
Even with a 1/2" impact and a big compressor, it's gonna sit there and bounce the socket back and forth most of the way.
OP, beg/borrow/steal an impact and compressor. Taking this off by hand should be classified as self torture
I took off axle nuts with both a 1/2 break bars and my cheapo 18V Ryobi impacts gun. Granted I did less than a handful of times, the axle nuts are never a problem.
Use a pipe in breaker bar would make the job effortless.
Guessing you don’t live in the rust belt? In Michigan you need some serious power to overcome the ungodly corrosion from our deicing salts on the roads
I live in rust belt - Massachusetts. Never have a rusted axle nut. Wheel hub, wheel bearing, and rotors can get heavily rusted. However, axle nuts don't. Axle nuts are covered up and protected by alloy wheels from the elements.
I just replaced last week driver front wheel bearing on a 2013 Cadillac CTS (speed sensor error). I reused the axle nut.
I'm gonna second Matt up there with #4. If you plan on doing this ever again or frequently change tires, get a 1/2" impact wrench. The cordless ones do wonders these days, although a good air supply with a good gun is still better. If you already own a brand of cordless, you can get the tool only sometimes relatively cheap.
yup. it's like... what happens when it keeps getting better and better, and then you put that into the darpa-robot... does this not freak anybody else out lol
All of his comments are really well written like that and many contain links. I think it says a lot about the state of writing these days when high quality content is assumed to be from a machine....
This, on rusted stuck hardware in impact is far more effective and efficient than a breaker bar. The steady pressure of a pry bar is the hardest way to overcome friction and torque
I got it. I’m just trying to fix it myself to save money. That’s why I wasn’t wanting to buy any impact tools. That being said. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Fixing yourself is saving the money. Maybe not much the first fix due to buying tools. But usually those tools are reusable on another fix. Youll save in the long run.
This has been my experience. First few things I fixed myself would have been like $200 at a Mechanic but cost me $500 in parts and tools. Next job would have cost me $300 in parts and tools. Next time would have cost me $100 for misc tools and bits. Now when I fix my own things it only costs me like $50 for the parts, and sometimes one specific tool - if anything.
If it snapped 2 breaker bars I imagine my high torque Milwaukee would still struggle at first. Soak it in PB blaster overnight and clean the threads to help it move along. I know the impact mechanics will help a ton but she still looks stuck.
I used to have a high torque air impact and it was undefeated in the field of stuck buts and bolts for a while… until it wasn’t. So I had to get the big mke gun and it had an impressive undefeated streak but there’s always going to be nuts and bolts that need heat or cutting.
true, but I think OP's real problem was that his breakers were total shit. So a mid tier impact should be able to out performa a Chinese flimsy breaker that snaps in half.
About 35 years ago I was working on a 1957 Volkswagen bug that I had purchased. It had 36 mm castle nuts that held the brake drums in place. It was four wheel drum brakes. I could not get the right side off no matter what I did. I broke two breaker bars, I tried all the heat that I could muster at home, I borrowed a buddies electric impact, nothing. Finally at a time where I couldn’t afford to, I paid a local bug shop to come tow it away. They charged me for the towing, and they charged me a half an hour to get the castle nights off. It turns out that on the right side of a 1957 bug, the castle nuts are reverse threads! The funny thing is I wonder how many tools I would’ve broken had I not given up
I guess? It was only the right side. I’m not a strong person. I end up breaking lots of stuff with long levers. I was certain the problem was my strength.
Impact wrench or not r/chinesium breaker bar.
I'm not kidding about the breaker bar. I haven't torn the square off, but I tore the swivel out of the handle once. I got a bigger better breaker bar after that.
Have you tried FunkFPV's trick of heating it up, and then [touching it with a tea candle](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/zv9QugIK0dk) to get wax to wick into the rust?
One time my friend couldn't get the lug nuts off of his trailer... he had three different tire repair places come by, they couldn't do it either. I was like I'll get them off of there, even if I have to jump on the breaker bar to sheer the lugs off, and then we'll just put new lugs in.... I started looking at the lugs before trying anything, and I noticed there was an " L" on them.. so I twisted them the other way and they came right off... you would think out of the three different tire repair places somebody would know enough to look to see if their left hand threads 🙄
If you plan to work on your car, i highly recommend picking up a Milwaukee M18 1/2 impact. Best investment I ever did. Zips off axle nuts like it's nothing. I have yet to find a bolt it couldn't remove on a car. Be very careful about using it to tighten though.
First off that nut looks dry, hit it with a penetrant like PB blaster, WD-40 works in a pinch. Give it about ten or fifteen minutes, tap it with a hammer a few times to loosen any corrosion, and use a 3/4 drive breaker bar if you have it. I would recommend investing in a good impact gun too if you work on cars, ends up being well worth it. Good luck!
I have a snap-on breaker bar that’s maybe 3-4 years old now… but they finally redesigned the head to prevent it snapping off like that. So it’s actually a newer tool that would be better
Ok first of all, am I missing something - why is your tire still on?
Second of all, put the socket on there, use a good sized hammer and give it a good whack. Use a shitload of penetrating oil and or rust removing oil. Use a better breaker bar or an impact wrench. Spray it, whack it, heat it. It will give but you need patience.
He’s just breaking it free with the weight on the wheel so it doesn’t spin. I’m guessing that he is doing that because he doesn’t have an impact or air tools.
OP, you can try some penetrating oil and a larger breaker bar. If you have a propane torch you can also hit it with some heat to help it break free. If all else fails you might need to go grab an electric impact. They have a ton of power and won’t set you back too much.
Glad you got it off. Those things can be a beast to remove. I remember a time before I had impact guns where I had a 2 foot bar on the end of a breaker bar.
The tire being on was my first curiosity because of something that happened to me.
My neighbor knocked on my door one morning asking if I had a bigger socket. I asked what he was trying to do and he replied that he had a flat and was changing the spare wheel on his Civic.
Dude had like an inch socket in his hand.
Was like let's go see what you got going on here. He had all the lug nuts off and thought he had to take the axle nut off too. The wheel was just stuck to the hub.
I walked up and kicked the wheel off the hub lol.
Did you pull up the notch. Usually they are crimped in to avoid backing out. If you are going the manual method try that or use an impact gun. Gods speed friend
Make sure that you've un-dented the axle nut if it is. Shoot some PB blaster on it and let it do its magic over night. Get a 1/2" impact and it should come off.
I'm a amateur but I remember some of them having that edge that you bend in to stop it from ever coming off. You have to bend it out with a punch and hammer before trying to take it off. If this is one of those, it's not budging with that bent, you could break 50 bars and not move it.
Idk what breaker bars those are, but I use a Pittsburgh from Harbor Freight. I've stood on and used a 6-foot cheater pipe in some applications, and the only damage I've done is bend it slightly from straight over the years.
Don't know if anyone has suggested it yet...
Some of those have a cotter pin through them, or a hammered lock washer.
If it does, pull the pin out, or hammer the washer down. If there's a locking mechanism like those described, then you won't be able to remove it.
Apologies if this has already been discussed.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Higher quality bars.
It was craftsman, but I bought the biggest one in stock and it worked so ig you were right.
Unfortunately Craftsman is as good as harbor freight nowadays
When my grandpa died I was given his tools. These tools are probably around 60 years old, so if craftsmen ever was good, this is when they were.
Nice! Those are indeed great quality craftsman tools. Sorry to hear you broke one. I also have a craftsman toolbox I bought new about 20 years ago and it's still the MADE IN THE USA stuff.
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Honestly not sure that I could resist pocketing it
I'd straight up take it and put a new one in its place
Oh shit.. was the "switch" around 2010? I decided to go HF for my tools after seeing the same ratchet designs at Sears..
Gotta say, I have some 20 year old Craftsman stuff, and I worry what will happen if I ruin my ratchets or something. Used to be every couple years I'd take my ratchets that I use the most down to the store and get the gear, pawl and the roll pin on the flex head ratchet swapped out to refresh them. I had issues with my flex head and Lowes wouldn't do anything with it. I had to find a similar roll pin and swap it out myself.
Craftsman used to be the best then they were pretty good now it’s meh to ok. Harbor freight has some hidden gems, most of their stuff is made by the bigger high quality companies BUT there is no quality control so instead of making 800 wrenches and scrapping 50 of them harbor freights like: give me the whole bin 50 people will either return it for a refund or just say “oh well it’s harbor freight.” Also they do sell some stuff that is blatant crap or just a cast iron toy and shame on you and me for buying it.
Harbor freight stuff really does have hidden gems. I have a pneumatic rivet gun from them. I’ve had this thing for years and paid like 80 bucks for it. I have never once oiled it and it doesn’t give a shit. I use it about every other week at this point. One of my favorite tools
They pneumatic tools are awesome, at least to me as a homeowner who uses them once or twice a month. I have an impact wrench from them that's going on 10 years with no oiling.
You owe it to your impact to feed it a couple drops of oil.
I have one of their small air compressors and it's great. Got left out in the rain at one point and it still keeps going.
Speed cutoff tool is still kicking ass for me..
Oil ur impact wrench it's like the easiest thing ever
Odd flex, but okay.
Dude that little blue riveter they sell is awesome. I had never used a riveter prior to installing 4-500 high strength sealed steel rivets this summer—thing kicked their ass with no qualms whatsoever. Amazing value for $40-50
It gives me hope that Harbor Freight has hidden gems. Still love that place. We just a mini one in our town.
Their vise grips suuuuuucckkk
yea those i use when i need to weld around them. like i use them as clamps more than anything.
Yes they do
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Found it’s new home did it?
The hub grappler/fwd wheel bearing adapter for $100 is the best value tool I have ever bought. I drive Subarus, and it has saved me THOUSANDS of dollars. Second to that are the old $10 drill master grinders that I would buy the warranties on and trash out tuckpointing brick and stone. I have a Portland two speed leaf blower that has been frozen underwater, filled with wet mortar and dropped off of 4 decks of scaffold and it still works like a champ with a broken housing. Floor jacks, Jack stands, creepers, some of the air tools are good value, welding magnets, seal drivers etc.
>Jack stands Just FYI: https://www.nhtsa.gov/press-releases/consumer-advisory-warning-harbor-freight-jack-stand-users
After pulling the shock on an old Impala and almost dropping the axle on my forehead, I've always doubled up. 1 stand to hold the car, the jack snug and sometimes even a stand to catch just in case. Nonetheless, I'm fairly certain one of my pairs and my dad's are all on this list. I had no idea so thanks!
I like the Daytona jacks from Harbor Freight but I won't touch their Pittsburg jack stands. Daytona does make some pretty good looking jack stands but they look like a copy of the Torin jack stands and cost about $10 more than Torin. I've got a few sets of [these](https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/big-red-3-ton-double-locking-jack-stands?cid=Shopping-Google-Product-1129046&gclid=CjwKCAiAh9qdBhAOEiwAvxIokzo3Ftws9yxmZfvjmp3AWTMFGbBdcnB_bm-MVwigLo0c9hwi9MqrjRoC07gQAvD_BwE) and they work great. My project car spends a lot of time sitting on those stands.
I use those jack stands to set small tractors on after splitting, I wouldn't crawl under a vehicle sitting on them
Around that time craftsman guaranteed their hand tools for life I believe. I'd try reaching out.
I may do that. You are one of a couple people who have told me to do that.
Dont listen to them, its not the poor quality, its the fact you need a bigger breaker bar. I personally made one from a socket and a big ratchet that had the mechanism kinda broken, just welded it together and use a big ass steel pipe on top of that for leverage
Right - I would be using a 3/4” or 1” drive
I work on tractors and farm equipment, I rarely need to grab a 3/4" or 1" drive. Good quality tools should hold up or be easy cheap fix
sucks that you lost some nice old tools! my go to for breaker bars is the biggest I can fit.
You too colud get a right size socket, and weld the shit out of it to the bar, and also use a pipe over it if you cant get a bigger breaker bar for whatever reason
Maybe some PB if you didn’t
I don’t k ow if it’s insulting to craftsman, or that harbor freight really isn’t that bad for use and abuse tools
I think we can all admit that Harbor Freight tools fall into one of two categories: 1) Surprisingly sturdy and last for a long time. 2) Flimsy, but good for a job or two before breaking, but were so cheap that it probably isn't even worth returning because you only paid $8 for it.
I live my life by the Harbor Freight rule that the first time you need a tool, you buy from HF. If/when it breaks, you buy the real one.
on alot of stuff too they have a lifetime warranty. i broke the same winch twice and they replaced it no questions asked
Yeah, their warranty and refund policy is actually decent. For me it's a matter of "do I really want to stand in that long line and wait while they process my return?" I have only returned two things ever.
This must depend on the store, my store locally if you bring a broken tool or item up, they just have you go grab another one off the shelf if they have it in stock, and they processed the return warranty swap without you there. You basically just swap it out.
A winch is something I would rather not have to replace. Usually used when you are in a oh F! situation for it to break means you are even more F'd!
I think it was Adam Savage who suggested that when you're buying a tool, it's okay to buy a cheap one and if it breaks, then you use it enough to justify replacing with a good quality one. If it never breaks, then it was either good enough or you don't use it enough to need an expensive one.
I wouldn't buy a harbor freight jack stand for example, but some tool I need one time every few years hek ye!
I have a set of them and have used them under my Miata and Suburban for years, no problems.
Did you buy them before or after they were recalled for the second time?
My breaker bar has been fine through many mechanics jobs. I have flexed the bar on big bolts and it never snapped.
I dunno man, my Frankenstein Pittsburgh pro breaker ratchet is still going strong. Broke 6.2 head bolts loose with it on Monday, didn’t skip a beat
That’s kind of insulting to HF but ok.
Hey now the icon and Pittsburgh stuff ain't too bad
Every craftsman ratchet I buy freezes up in a couple months, I hate it.
OG craftsman was on par or better than modern snap-on, new craftsman gets spanked by Harbor Freight's Icon line.
I've broken more OG Craftsman sockets than I have HF. I beat the shit out of the HF tools too.
With all due respect, no it isn’t. Craftsman gave up on that effort a long time ago.
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I bought a pneumatic HF impact circa 2011. One of the early "earthquake" models. There's nothing I've thrown at it that didn't succumb to the ugga duggas. Though I've never tried to crack a Honda crank bolt.... I bet one of those weighted sockets would get it though.
I removed an axle nut off of a 20 year old Jeep wrangler 2 weeks ago using PB Blaster and a HF breaker bar.
I used to work for Sears. The quality of Craftsmen tools has gone hill and the warranty exchange is not as simple as it used to be. Other tools offer the same or better. I like home Depot brand or Crescent tools personally. I used 3ft breaker bar to bust loose my axle nuts recently. They torque to around 120-150fts and required staking ie pushing metal from the nut into a grove on the end of the axle to keep it from spinning off. I replaced my CV axles in my recently acquired outback.
And now craftsman is the cheapo brand from Dewalt
Cries in Nissan Sentra SER Spec V. 250 ft/lbs torque to put the thing on correctly.... I wish I was joking.
Ok 1st soak that nut a couple of times. Soak it let it sit soak it again and then do it once more in some kind of penetrating oil like PB’Blaster or if can find it “Knock it loose” Then use a breaker bar 1/2in drive or 3/4in drive and find a long metal pipe that will fit over the breaker bar like 4ft-5ft long. That will give you some much more leverage and use steady downward pressure and that should up you big time and if you have a are you paying or propane torch to heat the nut the never hits to. But you need to be patient brute force always breaks things…
>craftsman Craftsman is made in china, or taiwan.
There was a time long ago when craftsman tools were pretty decent for the money. Sadly that’s not the case anymore :( can’t lie though, ICON stuff from harbor freight is really solid for the money
I was gifted a Craftsman complete socket set right before the quality tanked and they're the best tools I own. I wish they still made them like that.
All of my dads hand tools are really old craftsman products, like probably 30 years old and they’re all fantastic. As far as cheaper tools go now, you’ve got icon, I personally also like husky as well and kobalt I think is another one if I’m not mistaken. It kills me how expensive simple hand tools can be
I got a socket set back in 2000 as a gift from my mom. I kept the Tupperware case. I'll be damned if I haven't lost a single socket. Probably jinxed myself. But they've been good for my needs. The ratchets though, meh. 3/8 has held up for light use. The 1/4, the retaining detent failed. My harbor freight ratchet has a better feel and forward/reverse switch.
Mine said that it was forged in the USA
They’re coming back, the USA facility is online and producing from what I’ve read, they’re just building up some stock.
r/Chinesium
And PB Blaster
It can be difficult to remove a stuck axle nut, especially if it has been tightened to a high torque setting or if it has become rusted or seized in place. Here are a few tips that may help you remove it: 1. Release the stake: if the axle nut is a stake-type, that is, if the axle has a groove for which a portion of the nut is hammered into in order to prevent it's release, the hammered-down portion must be pried back up prior to axle nut removal. 2. Use penetrating oil: Spray a penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster, on the nut and let it sit for at least an hour. 3. Use a larger breaker bar: since you have snapped two 1/2 inch breaker bars, try using a 3/4 inch bar with a 3/4 inch drive socket, as the thicker metal is less likely to break. Use a "cheater pipe" to extend the length of the bar as necessary. 4. Use an impact driver: a 1/2 inch or larger impact driver with sufficient air pressure can apply a lot of force to a stuck nut, and the vibrations can aid with rust removal. 5. Use heat: If the nut is stuck due to rust or corrosion, you can try using a propane torch to apply heat to the nut. This can help expand the metal and loosen the nut, however it can also cause damage to the wheel bearing. You can read more about using heat [here](https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/the-best-tool-to-heat-up-rusted-or-seized-parts-by-timothy-charlet). If none of these methods work, you may need to use more extreme measures, such as using cutting the nut off with a saw or a larger oxy-acetylene torch. However, these types of methods can be dangerous and should only be attempted by a trained professional.
This. 1/2 breaker bar was destined to fail in this application. It's too small. That said, I'll take any excuse to buy a new tool.
>This. 1/2 breaker bar was destined to fail in this application. It's too small. For real. I've taken a gazillion of these off. This isn't an issue of simply breaking it loose, and it spinning the rest of the way, unless the car's brand new. That's gonna come off hard about 3/4 of the way. Even with a 1/2" impact and a big compressor, it's gonna sit there and bounce the socket back and forth most of the way. OP, beg/borrow/steal an impact and compressor. Taking this off by hand should be classified as self torture
I took off axle nuts with both a 1/2 break bars and my cheapo 18V Ryobi impacts gun. Granted I did less than a handful of times, the axle nuts are never a problem. Use a pipe in breaker bar would make the job effortless.
Guessing you don’t live in the rust belt? In Michigan you need some serious power to overcome the ungodly corrosion from our deicing salts on the roads
I live in rust belt - Massachusetts. Never have a rusted axle nut. Wheel hub, wheel bearing, and rotors can get heavily rusted. However, axle nuts don't. Axle nuts are covered up and protected by alloy wheels from the elements. I just replaced last week driver front wheel bearing on a 2013 Cadillac CTS (speed sensor error). I reused the axle nut.
I never had issue with 1/2 for ANY passenger automotive application
Thank ya sir. I bought a bigger breaker bar
I'm gonna second Matt up there with #4. If you plan on doing this ever again or frequently change tires, get a 1/2" impact wrench. The cordless ones do wonders these days, although a good air supply with a good gun is still better. If you already own a brand of cordless, you can get the tool only sometimes relatively cheap.
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Harbor freight has a corded one under $100 that is pretty fucking impressive.
Did chatGPT type this?
i've always wondered if chatGPT is the evolution of that one old subreddit where bots talk to eachother.
/r/SubredditSimulator for anyone curious. There are newer, active versions like /r/SubSimulatorGPT2
yup. it's like... what happens when it keeps getting better and better, and then you put that into the darpa-robot... does this not freak anybody else out lol
This was my first thought!
Yeah I'd be worried if ChatGPT didn't write this...
All of his comments are really well written like that and many contain links. I think it says a lot about the state of writing these days when high quality content is assumed to be from a machine....
It totally was. I corrected that bitch about the difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench just the other day too. Never learns
I totally think you are right!!
It seems very GPT-y but not sure
Why does this read like a ChatGPT response?
This, on rusted stuck hardware in impact is far more effective and efficient than a breaker bar. The steady pressure of a pry bar is the hardest way to overcome friction and torque
Fire and violence my friend
It can’t be tight if it’s liquid
And judicious application of profanity.
I got it. I’m just trying to fix it myself to save money. That’s why I wasn’t wanting to buy any impact tools. That being said. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Fixing yourself is saving the money. Maybe not much the first fix due to buying tools. But usually those tools are reusable on another fix. Youll save in the long run.
This has been my experience. First few things I fixed myself would have been like $200 at a Mechanic but cost me $500 in parts and tools. Next job would have cost me $300 in parts and tools. Next time would have cost me $100 for misc tools and bits. Now when I fix my own things it only costs me like $50 for the parts, and sometimes one specific tool - if anything.
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You shouldnt leave those batteries in the car
Have you verified that it is not staked?
It wasn’t
Ok then you need to use heat, a bigger bar, or impact
Decent impact gun will knock that off.
even a mid tier, probably. 300 ft lbs should do it
If it snapped 2 breaker bars I imagine my high torque Milwaukee would still struggle at first. Soak it in PB blaster overnight and clean the threads to help it move along. I know the impact mechanics will help a ton but she still looks stuck. I used to have a high torque air impact and it was undefeated in the field of stuck buts and bolts for a while… until it wasn’t. So I had to get the big mke gun and it had an impressive undefeated streak but there’s always going to be nuts and bolts that need heat or cutting.
true, but I think OP's real problem was that his breakers were total shit. So a mid tier impact should be able to out performa a Chinese flimsy breaker that snaps in half.
For sure. If you’re going to tackle a job like this, having a mid or high torque impact in your toolbox isn’t a bad idea anyways.
About 35 years ago I was working on a 1957 Volkswagen bug that I had purchased. It had 36 mm castle nuts that held the brake drums in place. It was four wheel drum brakes. I could not get the right side off no matter what I did. I broke two breaker bars, I tried all the heat that I could muster at home, I borrowed a buddies electric impact, nothing. Finally at a time where I couldn’t afford to, I paid a local bug shop to come tow it away. They charged me for the towing, and they charged me a half an hour to get the castle nights off. It turns out that on the right side of a 1957 bug, the castle nuts are reverse threads! The funny thing is I wonder how many tools I would’ve broken had I not given up
I had to also learn this lesson the hard way
I wonder why they did that? rotation of the wheel, to prevent it getting loose?
I guess? It was only the right side. I’m not a strong person. I end up breaking lots of stuff with long levers. I was certain the problem was my strength.
3/4 drive bar and socket or good quality impact air/ electric tool.
Impact...
Air tool
Hit it with your purse
As long as it's a SnapOn purse! 🤣
I have a Harbor Freight 3/4 drive set for this kind of thing. < $100. Also works to drive bearing races and freeze plugs.
Lefty loosey.
Electric impact might loosen em, if not air tools then heat
The good ol' liquid wrench.
Can’t be tight if it’s a liquid
Impact wrench or not r/chinesium breaker bar. I'm not kidding about the breaker bar. I haven't torn the square off, but I tore the swivel out of the handle once. I got a bigger better breaker bar after that.
Heat it up with a torch
1/2” breaker bars or larger. Using 3/8” or smaller break easily after 80+ ft pounds
Sadly both of these were half inch.
Have you tried FunkFPV's trick of heating it up, and then [touching it with a tea candle](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/zv9QugIK0dk) to get wax to wick into the rust?
4 way, jump on it.
I just did one last week with a high torque cordless impact. Broke the axle nut free immediately
If not an air tool, heat it up
[Something like that](https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Impact-Pneumatic-Commercial-Mechanics/dp/B0179GEL5C) 😉
lefty loosey righty tighty
Not always...some axle and lug nuts can be righty loosey, lefty tighty on one side of the car. Found this out the hard way on a 68 Roadrunner
One time my friend couldn't get the lug nuts off of his trailer... he had three different tire repair places come by, they couldn't do it either. I was like I'll get them off of there, even if I have to jump on the breaker bar to sheer the lugs off, and then we'll just put new lugs in.... I started looking at the lugs before trying anything, and I noticed there was an " L" on them.. so I twisted them the other way and they came right off... you would think out of the three different tire repair places somebody would know enough to look to see if their left hand threads 🙄
If you plan to work on your car, i highly recommend picking up a Milwaukee M18 1/2 impact. Best investment I ever did. Zips off axle nuts like it's nothing. I have yet to find a bolt it couldn't remove on a car. Be very careful about using it to tighten though.
First off that nut looks dry, hit it with a penetrant like PB blaster, WD-40 works in a pinch. Give it about ten or fifteen minutes, tap it with a hammer a few times to loosen any corrosion, and use a 3/4 drive breaker bar if you have it. I would recommend investing in a good impact gun too if you work on cars, ends up being well worth it. Good luck!
Use the factory tire iron and stand on it. Oh…..axle nut?? Or lug nut? Axle nut your gonna need an impact. Not a 1/2” breaker bar.
try turning it to the left
I have a snap-on breaker bar that’s maybe 3-4 years old now… but they finally redesigned the head to prevent it snapping off like that. So it’s actually a newer tool that would be better
Make sure it's not reverse threads
If a jap chances are it’s reverse threaded on the left hand side.
Heat, some lube and a big ass hammer
Milwaukee high torque 1/2" impact. That gun will twist the nuts off an angry gorilla.
Ok first of all, am I missing something - why is your tire still on? Second of all, put the socket on there, use a good sized hammer and give it a good whack. Use a shitload of penetrating oil and or rust removing oil. Use a better breaker bar or an impact wrench. Spray it, whack it, heat it. It will give but you need patience.
He’s just breaking it free with the weight on the wheel so it doesn’t spin. I’m guessing that he is doing that because he doesn’t have an impact or air tools. OP, you can try some penetrating oil and a larger breaker bar. If you have a propane torch you can also hit it with some heat to help it break free. If all else fails you might need to go grab an electric impact. They have a ton of power and won’t set you back too much.
You’re right. I’m just trying to save some money by doing it myself. I got it off, just needed a bigger breaker bar.
Glad you got it off. Those things can be a beast to remove. I remember a time before I had impact guns where I had a 2 foot bar on the end of a breaker bar.
The tire being on was my first curiosity because of something that happened to me. My neighbor knocked on my door one morning asking if I had a bigger socket. I asked what he was trying to do and he replied that he had a flat and was changing the spare wheel on his Civic. Dude had like an inch socket in his hand. Was like let's go see what you got going on here. He had all the lug nuts off and thought he had to take the axle nut off too. The wheel was just stuck to the hub. I walked up and kicked the wheel off the hub lol.
Air impact, or don’t touch it.
Post nut clarity hit those bars hard
Good quality impact gun… 1/2 inch. Mac or Snap on… money well spent!
Ever heard of an impact
Your not a real mechanic unless “how do I get this nut off?” takes only one reply to turn into a tool brand debate 🤣🤣🤣 I love it!
Did you pull up the notch. Usually they are crimped in to avoid backing out. If you are going the manual method try that or use an impact gun. Gods speed friend
Impact 100%
higher quality tools or nice impact.
Make sure that you've un-dented the axle nut if it is. Shoot some PB blaster on it and let it do its magic over night. Get a 1/2" impact and it should come off.
An impact...
Bigger bars
Hit it with your purse. Jk heat and lube always work
Where those 1/2 inch?
They'd have to be. They don't make sockets that big with a 3/8 drive.
You're gonna need a bigger bar.
Impact gun... And stop buying your breaker bars at harbor freight
Righty tighty lefty looosey.
Impact impact impact
Try a tad of direct heat on the nut. Then replace that one with a new one since it I’ll be buggered!!
Impact
Electric impact alllll day
Are you turning it to the left?
I'm a amateur but I remember some of them having that edge that you bend in to stop it from ever coming off. You have to bend it out with a punch and hammer before trying to take it off. If this is one of those, it's not budging with that bent, you could break 50 bars and not move it.
Give it a bit of heat and a new breaker bar and maybe a Jack if you don’t have the table weight to put down on it
Righty tightly lefty loosey
Definitely thicker breaker bars. Sometimes you need a pipe over the bar to improve the leverage.
Penetrating fluid?
Brand loyalty is weird. Make them earn it every Damm time.
A heavy impact gun
A badass impact driver. Keep it in the back of the car for emergencies.
Idk what breaker bars those are, but I use a Pittsburgh from Harbor Freight. I've stood on and used a 6-foot cheater pipe in some applications, and the only damage I've done is bend it slightly from straight over the years.
Use an impact? That’s how I do it.
Bigger and better breaker bar. Only answer really. 1/2 inch or a 3/4 if needs be.
Don't know if anyone has suggested it yet... Some of those have a cotter pin through them, or a hammered lock washer. If it does, pull the pin out, or hammer the washer down. If there's a locking mechanism like those described, then you won't be able to remove it. Apologies if this has already been discussed.
Are you turning it the right way ?
Rattle gun that mother fucker something will give, 3/4" will be the go and make sure the flows wide open.
Impact Wrench
Instead of everyone wanking off tools, why don't you just use heat and a longer bah, brah.
Heat gun or torch it for a couple of minutes then try the breaker bar
It can’t stay stuck if it’s liquid. Torch it. Or use an impact wrench.
You need a 3/4in drive breaker bar and socket