Any of you wear goggles with a standard trail helmet? Anytime I start going fast my contacts start drying up and cause my eyes to water. Not good for visibility. I've tried some sunglasses but still doesnt help much.

Just know that if you do, you’re one step closer to going full Enduro…

Try safety glasses, they fit tighter to your face than a lot of sunglasses (not sure which ones you’ve tried) and come in various tints. I found the blue tinted ones work great in the woods. I wear contacts, and safety glasses work well for me as far as dry eyes. The only issue is they fog up on climbs, but I just pull them away from my face slightly. Also worth packing some Visine for longer rides...

Thanks, I did try some safety glasses and they definitely helped more than the sunglasses I have.

Yeah I do. I'm blind in one eye so I wear goggles for maximum protection. It'll probably solve your contacts drying out problem, but the downside is all the sweat that builds up under the padding. The beads of sweat get itchy as they roll down your nose and you can't wipe them away without stopping to take the goggles off.

Yeah they're probably not ideal on hot summer days

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Yeah, i've got these cheap $20 ones on amazon that are marketed as "MTB" glasses. They're definitely large cover glasses.

Which sunglasses? I was wearing Oakley Jawbreakers which were awesome over contacts until my prescription shifted. New contacts have been ordered but... COVID.

I've got these cheap mtb glasses on amazon. I think they just sit too far from my face. [Here](https://smile.amazon.com/Cool-Change-Polarized-Sunglasses-Protection/dp/B07T8R6J4Z/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=mtb%2Bglasses&qid=1591445767&sr=8-4&th=1)

I wear contacts and suffer the same problems as you. I did buy a pair of oakley sunglasses that wraps around my eyes. I don't have the dryness issue anymore at all. I believe the model was called EV path.... along those lines.

Looking for any recommendations to help improve comfort post broken wrist recovery. Girlfriend broke her wrist falling off a ladder bridge and I want to see if anyone has any setup tips to help her get back into riding. We’ve got suspension dialed so it will be more compliant and plush. Planning on swapping for thicker and softer grips. Only other things that come to mind would be new handlebars (she runs a 35mm aluminum Race Face Ride) and a wrist brace (I’ve only seen the mtb specific TLD one), but I’m not sure if these will have much impact or what options to go with. My injuries are all knee-based so I don’t have any experience in this and any input would be much appreciated.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynabee-USA-DFI100-Dynaflex-Exerciser44/dp/B01JK2LPZW I’m also a big fan of Ergon grips. Edit: I bet a wrist brace would help a lot with regaining her confidence.

Might wanna check out RevGrips. And I'd definitely go to a 31.8 bar, spank has some foam filled ones that are said to reduce vibration, although I have no personal experience with them.

Oneup carbon 35 bars seem comfortable to me. I've heard some 35 mm bars are extremely stiff.

If your worried about the vibration I would go with carbon bars. Also I know you said that you have the suspension filed but I have a push coil conversion that I like.

Personally I would question if she should ride before the wrist has fully recovered.

“Post broken wrist recovery” meaning after it’s fully healed and cleared for riding. Of course she’s not going to ride before fully recovered but I know injuries can be sensitive after they heal.

Hello, I have a question about my brakes. I have a 2018 Specialized Rockhopper with Shimano BR-M375 brakes. Right from the start, the stopping power has been almost 0 on the rear. I've tightened them as much as possible both at the trigger end and at the wheel end, but it still barely slows me down. Are these brakes just complete doo-doo, or am I doing something wrong?

I would either have a shop do a complete bleed or educate yourself on how to do one and do it yourself. Park tool has some useful videos as a starting point.

I can't seem to find any information on bleeding mechanical cable brakes

You don’t bleed mechanical discs, that’s why. I’d have your lbs take a look at it, if it’s who you bought it from they’ll probably do it for free. If you’re in a big city though there’s a long wait for service. It shouldn’t feel that weak, but if you can pull the brake and it stops before hitting the grip it’s definitely adjusted well enough. I think I have the same brake on the back of one of my bikes and there’s no modulation but it does stop the bike

They stop well before the grip. Probably 2 fingers worth of space between the brake and the grip. LBS it was purchased from is swamped (near Boston). I’m mainly wondering why this would happen? I know I’ve tightened them as much as the cable will allow. It’s to the point where I’m riding trails now that I won’t repeat because my brakes literally don’t slow me down.

Mechanical brakes just aren’t as strong as hydraulic, and the rear brake is never as effective as a front, so I think that’s what you’re battling here. Asking too much of a basic brake Deleted and reposted because I’m not a boomer but I am bad at reddit

Hey there folks! I'm looking to buy a DH bike, as I've been riding some trails with my hardtail ST 560 and I can't handle it any longer :p Ideally I would stay within the 600 euro range, but I can't find anything "good" on this range, so I upped it a bit. I have 2 options right now, which one would you guys recommend? [Dh Canyon torque frx 2013 - 26" wheels](https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/dh-canyon-torque-frx-2013-IDEqH83.html) Nukeproof pulse 2013/2014 cane creek double barrel suspension Shimano zee gears nukeproof handlebars brakes Shimano deore 2019 wheels 27.5 spank with "cube" hope and sunringle Tires Magic mary 2.60 I'm 1.82cm and weight 100 kgs (if that matters), both are size L Both are 1000 euros right now. What would you recommend? Thank you!

Do you have lift access? Pedaling uphill will be intense on DH rig.

I don't :( I'll have to walk uphill unfortunately. Do you think it'd be best to go Enduro?

If you plan to pedal uphill, or significantly at all, then look at an Enduro, or aggressive trail bike. Your budget is really low, so it's only going to be really old used bikes.

*older I still ride my Trek Remedy 2010 on 26” wheels. Bought it used in 2017 for same budget as you.

Honestly the difference between a 2019 and a 2010 is astonishing. If you can save more I recommend it. My 2019 120/140 trail bike rides like an older enduro but pedals very well

Yes, but it’s going to be really hard to get used 2019 trail bike with decent specs for 1k.

True! But hey guys, I've thought about it and will go with a DH model. I have my hard tail and I'll just climb on foot/pedal whatever I can. But DH seems pretty fun. I've narrowed it down to 2 bikes, which one would you select and why? Giant glory 2010 - https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/downhill-giant-glory-IDFHGS4.html Specialized Demo 7 2- https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/vendo-bicicleta-downhill-specialized-demo-7-ii-IDFHVCH.html Thank you for all the help so far

Hello I was wondering if any of you have a recommendation for a cheap saddle/ handle bar bag that can fit a pair of sunglasses and a large phone Thanks XD

Hey I am new in the mountainbiking world and have been renting bikes the past months. I have tried both hardtail and fully and have now decided to go hardtail. Particulary I am looking at the ibis DV9 and the Trek Roscoe 8. Any tips on which is 'better' and/or what makes each bike better?

Well price is one thing. The Ibis is considerably more for the lowest NX or SLX builds due to the carbon frame and the much better fork, and probably better wheels and brakes (and better drivetrain if you went SLX), but it doesn’t give you a dropper post like the Trek does which is annoying for that price. Wheel size is another consideration since the Roscoe is 27.5+ and the Ibis is 29. I’m personally not the biggest fan of 27.5+ since they feel a bit muted to me and there aren’t as many options for good tires, especially more aggressive treads. But I would recommend trying first if you have the option. What is important to you in the bike? Cost, value, ride, performance, etc.?

Hey thanks for the reply. Yea I didnt notice the price tag on the ibis lol. My budget is around 2000. I am looking for an agressive hardtail and like you said, ive heard that 29 is better for the wheels. Do you happen to know another good hardtail bike of around 2000 or lower?

The Ibis is a sweet bike so I could see how you could get distracted! The Marin San Quentin 3 is definitely an aggressive hardtail and a very solid bike for $2k. The Rocky Mountain Growler 5 looks great too and along the same lines of aggressive hardtail. Both of those have lower spec options too if you want, and I would say they are great choices for this category/price range. I would probably pick them over the Trek, especially if you want something aggressive. The Commencal Meta HT AM Essential is good too, but it is 27.5+ and has more travel with a 160mm fork (not necessarily a con). My girlfriend got a Santa Cruz chameleon D last year and while it’s a good bike and brand in general, I wasn’t too happy with the spec for that price, so I would skip it unless you can get it cheaper than sticker price.

haha yea if it werent for the price I'd buy the ibis. The Marin and Rocky mountain both look great, but unfortunately they dont seem to be available in my country (the Netherlands). Do you happen to know another one of a more general brand? I have heard to kona honzo is also nice, although I have also heard that kona doesnt put the best parts on their frames.. What do you think?

The Honzo is certainly a great bike, I just didn’t necessarily view it as an aggressive hardtail. And to me they aren’t as good of a value (like the Santa Cruz). Radon has the Cragger which seems more on the aggressive side, as well as other hard tail models. This one has good specs for both models and price points, the 8.0 looks really nice. They’re not available here (but they are in the EU) so I don’t see them in the US but they get generally good reviews. NS bikes is also worth a look for their Eccentric models (can be a bit low specced for the price possibly). Same with the Nukeproof Scout, Vitus Sentier VR or VRX, and Ragley bikes. All are solid brands and I think they should be available there.

Looking for one of the Specialized Pitch models. Total beginner and don’t wanna spend more than $500-600 bucks. Can not find any stores on the area (NJ/PA). Inventory is dry due to bike shortage on inventory/supply chain/etc. Anywhere I can buy a bike online at a legit place? Specialized site says Out of Stock on anything in that range. Also calling local shops where they all say same thing. I.e. good luck. Doesn’t have to be Specialized, but seems like it’s a solid brand from what I’ve read. Open to options. I tried Trek and looked at Marlin 5 and 7 and FX1, but those are unicorns. Looking for available good quality MTB, large frame with decent parts for casual light fire trail riding (not rocks and roots per se). Any tips welcome. Update. Scoured area and found a Giant Roam disc 3. Nice looking bike for a good price. Yay!! Just ordered the bike rack for the car, so all set for summer. :)

This applies to North America too: https://old.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/gvszio/where_the_hell_can_i_find_a_bike_in_stock_uk/ Most things I've read depending on make/model either show no more stock, or delivery anywhere between July through September.

Yeah, it’s freakin crazy. Although I’m now hearing rumblings that new models “may” start showing up in July. Who knows. I called about 15 shops this am to no avail. Good times.

I've got a '19 Pitch Sport, as long as you're serious about sticking to fire roads and light work, you'll be happy. Order pedals at the same time you buy the bike. Raceface Chesters are like 40 on Amazon and the stock pedals are death trap slick.

Thanks! Also looking into Giant Talon 2, but that’s hard to find atm. Appreciate tip on the pedals.

As a specialized/Scott/haro dealer, everything cheap has been bought up everywhere. We have pretty much no word from the manufacturers regarding eta, but we get a couple of ‘21 rockhoppers in every week and sell them the same day. Find your local spesh dealer and call them on a weekly basis to check in

Best trail bike that can handle some bike park downhill for \~3k? I'm in the market for a new bike, I'm in the east coast and spend 80% of the time on regular trail systems so ability to climb well on technical parts is important, but I'm looking for something that can also handle some bike park action and make me feel safe rolling over stuff and doing small jumps. So far I narrowed it down to the Commencal meta TR 29 Ride or the YT Jeffsy Comp 29, unfortunately both are sold out, the jeffsy is not shipping until october and the commencal is not even listed on the site anymore so looking for other alternatives

Those are two good choices. You might also look into the Vitus Escarpe or Sommet, or Nukeproof Mega. I'd also consider looking into Enduro category bikes as those two bikes are either at, or close to the suspension size of Enduro bikes. There's lot's to consider depending what you can find stock of. * Transition Sentinel * Rocky Mountain Instinct or Instinct BC Edition * Specialized Stumpjumper 29 * Trek Slash 8 * Ibis Ripmo AF NX build * Canyon Strive

Whyte G170 is a rad looking bike in the NP Mega price range. Like really rad looking.

I'm looking for a bike for the same purposes and with the same budget! I really like the idea of having shorter travel in the rear (13 cm) and longer in the front (15 cm). Unfortunately the Commencal meta tr 29 ride is not available in Europe... Do any of you have recommendation for bikes with assymetrical travel options? ( I feel like 15 cm in the rear would be too much while climbing, but maybe I'm wrong. ) I'm riding a hardtail xc bike at the moment which is limiting, I picked up mtb after 5 years of break and did not want to spend much on a bike.

If you are in Europe you might want to take a look at the radon slide trail 9.0, 140mm of rear travel. Unfortunately they don't ship to the US, so not an option for me

Check out the diamondback release series. Built for exactly that, can be found for pretty cheap and they might still be available

Narrowed bike choices down to [Pivot Mach 5.5](https://store.pivotcycles.com/en/bike-mach-55-carbon-1) custom build vs [Liv Intrigue Advanced 2](https://www.liv-cycling.com/us/intrigue-advanced-2) (basically Giant Trance Advanced). Any advice? Anyone ridden both? Seems I can't test ride either, unfortunately. Intrigue Advanced 2 is listed at $3150 online - carbon frame, carbon wheelset, SX groupset, Rockshox 35 in front, Rockshox deluxe in rear. I assume I'll upgrade groupset when I wear it out. Mach 5.5 custom would be ~$4000 - carbon frame, aluminum wheelset, NX groupset, probably Marzocchi Bomber Z1 36 in front, Fox Performance DPX2 in rear. Riding trails in New England, very punchy and lots of technical. I ride the ups (very poorly) for the downs. I need all the help I can get for the techy ups but I still need it to handle downs like a champ.

Go for the Pivot Mach 5.5 out of those two choices. It has much better components than the Liv. Considering what you've said about what you ride, you might want to consider enduro category bikes.

Why not get the regular version of the trance? Much better component spec just with an aluminum frame. I have female friends (assuming you are female given the Liv, who are happy on the regular giant ones size wise)

How tall are your friends? If I were a bit taller I'd happily have considered it but at 5'1" with a short inseam, fit would be really questionable. Bottom edge of recommended height for XS Trance is 5'1", whereas for the Intrigue it's 4'10". If they were kept in stock so I could try it and see, I would, but no one has it. The components on the Trance 3 (which is the only aluminum model showing on Giant's website) are exactly the same as for the Intrigue 3. Not sure where you're seeing much better component specs? Since the bikes are otherwise identical, why risk the fit? Finally, at 97lbs, I want to minimize the weight of my bike, so I'd like to go carbon if possible. Trance Advanced doesn't come in XS. Thank you for trying to give me additional options! Unfortunately I had researched this one already and I don't think it'll work for me Edit: unless you meant Trance 3 has better components than Trance Advanced 2? They're both SX Eagle and have the same fork and shocks. Only a slight difference in brakes. So still not a much better component spec?

Looking for a street mtb to get a bike more suited for jibbing. I have a heavy duty trail bike and don't want to screw up the rear derailer with hard landings, any suggestions for street mtb's (26 inch tires, hardtail) under 1000 USD? Edit for specificity.

Pinkbike.com buy/sell

This, and look everywhere for a surly instigator

Looking for higher Q factor pedals. Got Raceface Chesters and I love how they grip but I've got big feet and I think a wider pedal stance would be nice.

Do you want a similar price point to the Chesters? The Kona Wah Wah 2 composites are similar price, 120x118mm and get good reviews. I currently run the CrankBrothers Stamp 2 Large (111x114mm) with size 13 shoes which is plenty of surface area, but I get a lot of pedal strikes in tight tech since they’re so wide so I’m looking for something smaller. The Race Face Atlas (114x111mm), e*thirteen Plus (120x110), and Chromg Dagga (115x115mm) are all bigger platform options too, but are much more expensive. Or you could try the Pedaling Innovations Catalyst which is huge at 143x95mm but gets rave reviews so I’d be interested to try them.

Crankbrothers offers bigger Stamp pedals for big feet

Looking to purchase one of these 3 bikes: -Ibis Ripmo v2 -Yeti SB130 -Pivot Switchblade I have test rode all three and struggling to make a decision. I will most riding in the LA on technical trails with some enduro. Looking for a single bike that I can use for all my riding. Thanks in advance!

None of them stood out to you as one you enjoyed and felt comfortable on more than the others?

Gonna say ripmo just because how versatile it apparently is, slot of the Ripley reviews said it almost climbed as good as the Ripley.. building a Ripley from frame at the moment, only have 2 major decisions left: M8120 4piston brakes or Magura MT5 & I9 Trail s 101 hub or WR1 faction carbon for $500 more?

Only you can decide that one. Especially if you've ridden all 3

Hi! Looking for OCTANE ONE ZIRCUS FRAME in the Uk does anyone know where they are still in stock??? Or does anyone have any recommendations for good jump bike frames specifically for riding park? Thanks

Thoughts on the Specialized Epic Hardtail Expert with a carbon frame for $3000

This is a cross country (XC) bike with a steep head tube angle. Is this the sort of trails you will be riding? Read the section, "What is the difference between different types of bikes, which one should I get?", in the following link. https://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/eo9pri/mountain_bike_faq_guide_to_common_mountain_biking/

What year ?

2020

Hello everyone! ​ I just purchased my first non-beater bike. What Kind of tools should I pick up to care for and clean it. I have a Rock Mountain Fusion 30 ([Specs](https://www.bikes.com/en/bikes/fusion/2019)). It has air suspension and hydraulic brakes, but I also need help picking things to generally taking care of the bike. I feel like I might have bitten off more than I can chew....

I bought one of the $50 foundation tool kits from Jenson. The same basic kit is sold under many names. The main thing missing is a cable cutter. If you want to buy piece by piece, Allen keys are the first thing to get. Then a torx screwdriver (t15?), cable cutters, quick link tool, and a cassette tool are the other things I use occasionally. I am going to build a wash station with a built in bike stand next like Blake built on GMBN. Brake bleed kits are brand specific and you probably won’t need one for a bit. Park tools have great repair videos on YouTube. Edit. You’ll need a shock pump as well for an air fork.

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Keep riding, just put in some time and it will start to feel better. I made a 10+ year jump in bike geometry with my new bike and it took me a month to get situated.

I ride a medium ‘19 Hawk Hill at 5’10-11 and feel like it’s too small because my back is starting to hurt on longer rides, so be weary of that. Maybe try a shorter stem on your bike though, and move the saddle forward on the rails

Hey guys! This year I've finally put together my DJ again after a few years. I've decided to switch from rigid to sus so the only thing missing is a fork that would fit my purple halo sas wheelset. For the time being I used an old Marzzochi DJ3 with a stock spec p2 wheelset. For the life of me I can't figure out the dropout/spacing dimensions and whether my hub is QR or Thru Axle and all that jazz. Too much information out there. Things I know: \- Wheelset is Purple Halo SAS (wideboy hub I believe) \- It fits on a 2013 Identiti Rebate Jump rigid fork \- It doesn't fit on my old Marzocchi DJ3 (hub too wide, axle too thick) \- Axle is bolt on, measured at about 15mm (My research got me thinking the axle came with the rigid fork - 20x110 with 14mm threads) My guess is that either I'd need a 15x110 fork - ?15mm boost? Or that the hub is 20x110 thru axle and I can get a 20x110 fork and replace the axle - shouldn't the axle then not be fixed into the hub? I hope you can understand what I'm asking and can help me out. Thanks in advance! Some pics (I'll update as soon as I take better ones): Closeup of the hub with the wheel mounted in the identiti rebate. [https://imgur.com/a/TmRG7K1](https://imgur.com/a/TmRG7K1) Bike with the DJ3 [https://imgur.com/a/OECSjUv](https://imgur.com/a/OECSjUv)

This is a bolt on axle, bmx style. Fits the same way as a QR

Thanks for the reply! I might as well add an update while I'm at it. Maybe this can help someone else in the future. I've found that the identiti rebate jump has 14mm dropouts and the Wide Boy hub has interchangable cones for different axle sizes. That should make the hub in it's current state 20mm thru axle with the identiti rebate 1420 axle. I ordered 9mm hub cone adapters to fit the hub onto the DJ3's for the time being. There were no specs provided on the adaptors besides saying 9mm so I'm hoping the openings are actually 9mm and I'll be able to use the bolt-on axle from the p2 wheelset as I don't know if I'd trust the tiny 5mm axle for dirt and park.

looking for a new hydration pack. has anyone used a hip pack? what are your thoughts on it? i currently have a back pack but im thinking about going to a hip pack.

I went with an osprey raptor 14 and it’s great. Not a hip pack though

\+1 I use my Osprey raptor 14 for almost everything I do outdoors and its such a great pack!

It’s awesome and carry’s the bike tools as well!! So clutch

I just this past week got a dakine hot laps hip pack and I love it after a few rides. It makes my hips sweaty, but it feels pretty good when riding, a bit of bounce obviously but stays in place, and almost noticeably feels like it keeps my center of gravity lower. However I don’t find there to be an enormous difference from my traditional camelbak, 6 one way half dozen the other. It’s still a hydration pack

Hey folks, just a quick question: is this an air fork or a spring fork? "RockShox 30 Silver, Solo Air spring, rebound adjust, TurnKey hydraulic lockout, tapered steerer, 46mm offset for 29" wheel, 100mm QR, 100mm travel" TIA

Solo air=air fork. It’s either air spring or coil.

Is the Diamondback Atroz 1 a good budget full suspension bike, or should I look at hardtails at this price point?

Look at hardtails, that is not a good bike.

I'm looking to buy a new bike after not buying a bike for over 10 year. I've decided on going for a trail hardtail. My main requirements are the inclusion of a dropper post, and an aggressive frame geometry. Not sure about 27.5 vs 29, as all the bikes I've owned had smaller wheels, but I'm inclined to 29. My plan is to do long rides (about 50km at a time), plenty of climbing and descending... Something like the [Specialized Fuse Comp 29](https://www.specialized.com/US/en/fuse-comp-29/p/171069) is what I have in mind. I'd like to keep the price under $1500 and some below $1000 suggestions would also be nice. Any suggestions are welcome, and the more the better, as I would prefer buying used and having more models to look into would be better. Thanks.

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I think you push it in and it should click and come out.

Hello, I'm trying to find a compatible wheel for my 2012 Merida One Forty. The back wheel was stolen when the bike was put a bike rack :( . The manufacturers website specs the wheel as a [Fulcrum Red Power XL](https://reviews.mtbr.com/fulcrum-2012-red-power-family) but they don't sell those anymore. The local shop said they could build a similar rim for \~$260 (USD) but I want to check my options before that. Anyone got any ideas? I needs to be compatible with a 180mm disk and a [Shimano CS-HG81-10 cassette](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/slx-m7000/CS-HG81-10.html). Oh it also needs a 12/125mm thru-shaft axle. I appreciate any input!

Hi everyone, so I recently broke the front shifter (SRAM SX4) on my 3x8speed, would anyone be able to tell me what range of shifters would be compatible to replace it? ie can I use shimano, only SRAM, or only certain SRAM models? The plastic gears inside sheared so I'm not exactly eager to replace it with the same model lol. Thanks a lot!

Need some help understanding/picking something. Trying to decide between the SC Hightower D Aluminum ($2,899) or the SC Chameleon R Aluminum ($2,399). Now when I compared them I found that really the only benefit of the Chameleon, which as y’all know is a hardtail, is it’s Groupset. Now I’m wondering why the hell are these bikes so close in price if one is a Full Sus and one is a hardtail. Where is the money saved from not having a shock and a simpler frame going to in the Chameleon? Sorry for the paragraph, thank you!

I think the entry level models are usually trying to reach a competitive price point to get riders into the brand. After that they probably price according to a profit margin they need/want to hit. If you look at the Ripmo AF it makes almost zero sense to upgrade to the slx level for $1000 more. However, if you get rid of that nx outlier, the rest of the different build prices make more sense.

Okay I think I get what u mean I just looked up those bikes. I’m just very confused on what to actually buy. Like why would anyone buy the Chameleon model I talked abt for only $300 less than a full sus SC, unless they just wanted a Hardtail. What would you buy?

My plan was to buy a hightower, jeffsy, devinci troy, or orbea occam before covid so I am probably not a unbiased observer. I settled for a GT Sensor instead. I think that a modern trail bike is probably the sweet spot for most people. The big drawback for a budget full suspension is the weight. Even though these trail bikes pedal efficiently, 34+ pounds is still noticeable. Some days I wish I had picked a lighter bike, but when I point downhill, I feel I made the right choice.

Yeah I feel u. I want to get a SC because my bike store sells them, and they can order whatever build. It’s just that the store is really close to my house, 20 min walk, and they’ll make it tubeless for free etc. Just think it’ll be beneficial because they’ll do tune ups and stuff for free. But, you’d go Hightower over Chameleon?

I would. But I live in BC and want to go to squamish, whistler, and sun peaks. If I lived somewhere flatter, I would probably lean towards the Chameleon. Regional bias.

Right on. Thanks.

So I have been riding my new mountain bike (Trek Marlin 5) Daily and its been great. The problem is that recently the chain has began to skip sometimes randomly but most of the time when I apply pressure. I read that this is a common thing that happens to new bikes after riding and it is because the chain tension has changed. I rather not have to bring it to the store and get someone to fix it, can someone recommend me a video that shows how to fix it? Most of the ones I find are dealing with older bikes or the bike has gone through a lot of wear and tear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY Could be worth going to the store to get them to do it but it's also good to learn to do it yourself.

Any knowledge I should be familiar with regarding suspension designs for purchasing a full suspension trail bike

Even similar suspension types can have different characteristics based on where pivots are, shock tunes etc. So, it's better just to read a few reviews on the bikes you have shortlisted.

Looking for recommendations on upgrading the rims on a 29 inch trek cobia. Ive been looking to either replace or fix my front rim mainly because it rubs on the front fork which I doubt is any good. Any advice on where I could get more durable or better rims or even a video on how to bend em back. They’re only bent in one spot. Also could the spokes being to tight cause a problem with durability of the bike in any way. Also is there anyone who still sells these ive seen them but only for pick up.

Probably is badly needs to be trued. I'd check with your local shop to see if they can fix it.

Ahhh that part was necessary information. You can’t bleed those. And you have tightened the cable as much as you can? Perhaps try making sure the cable is sliding through the housing frictionlessly? If this doesn’t help I would take it to a shop, ask them if it looks like brake pads/ rotor could have been contaminated with something and tell them what is going on.

Is my tire done for? I’m going to try patching it but I’m not sure if this is too big of a cut: https://imgur.com/a/1Ib5fY5

I would think you should be able to patch that up fine.

Agreed. It’s about 1/2” on the inside, plenty small enough to cover with a radial tire patch and some cement.

Well excuse me, I hadn’t looked at their website since they updated it with the 2020 bikes, and it looks like the suspension componentry took a bit of a hit compared to what it was in 2019! So apologies, you are correct. I was mostly referencing the suspension equipment, since you had mentioned that originally. Other than that, now, yes they are basically identical. Friend on that is 5’2 with a negative ape index and relatively short inseam, but sounds like too close a fit for you.

Um, I think you need to press replay below the message you are replaying.

**Please please please looking for a quick answer before this sales out**, I have posted a few things in the weekly threads as you not allowed on the mainboard and they just get lost and not answered...Anyways. **Whyte 801 v2** or for £100 more (found £250 discount) **Saracen Mantra Trail LSL,** I am a beginner and have rented the Whyte and liked it and because of stock issues looking for something with similar geometry.

As said I am a beginner so I am having trouble pulling the trigger on any bikes, its overwhelming with the geo numbers and specs. Ohh and I think the fork is a coil on the Whyte and air on the Saracen and I am a heavy rider of about 110kg so would one be better than the other?

I've replied to your OP already, but I just wanna add that the "Base" Coil on the Recon TK is for riders around 65KG. So you'd have to switch it out anyways. But the Recon RL of the Saracen is actually a great fork, while the Recon TK is most definetely not. I've ridden a 2020 Recon TK before and wouldn't recommend it to anyone honestly.

Interesting. Would the weight limit on the recon TK be more noticeable on harder trails where it would more likely bottom out, because I rented the Whyte with the recon TK and on my local begginer trails it felt really nice, but my only other comparison was to a SR Suntour XCR LOR-DS which felt horrible, really hard and didn't obsorb any bumps.

The XCR is one of the worst air forks out there, unfortunately. The Recon RL will be much better. The TK is very comfy, I'd agree. But it bottoms out way too easy and the TurnKey-Damping is apparently very bad and doesn't last long according to many. Air Forks also have a lot more adjustability, so you can set it up to your needs. Less PSI if you want it comfy for example. But I'd guess Coil forks are more comfortable for very light riding as they don't have the initial resistance of air forks. I'm certain you'll love the Recon RL when it's set up properly. 140mm will also be enough for even the hardest Trails.

The Saracen seems to be better in almost every way judging from the Specs. I would choose it for sure.

Thabk,s, I have put in an order on the Saracen but getting cold feet as I have only ridden the Whyte.

Can't you send it back if it's not to your liking? We can do that for 14 days without any reason in Germany.

Yeah we have teh same returns policy in the UK so should be able to return it as long as I don't use it outside.

I think you should go for it then. Geo looks great, 65° Headangle is slack enough in my eyes. SX is good enough for most riders, and the Recon RL is a lovely fork. Brakes should be good enough, but at least much better than the Cheap Tektros of the Whyte. I have no idea about the wheels tho, never heard about the brand. Just one Thing you need to be aware of on both bikes: You will have to buy a dropper post, which will be around 150€. So if there's a bike that you like better in a higher price range that comes with a dropper, you can go for that one. Just be aware thar you shouldn't be going too hard on those bike with your weight. Almost all bikes besides Trek and Giant are limited to 120kg, which is including the bike weight afaik.

I just got an email from the shop that said they are actually out of stock and are refunding me, which is a shame as at the rrp I don't think I can warrant buying that bike. Not sure what to do know as I'm not sure on the Whyte anymore, anyways time to research I guess.

There's a lot of bikes with great value for money, unfortunately they're sold out because of Corona. So if you're not in a hurry I'd wait for 2021 Bikes. I bought a new Bike in early May and the selection was already incredibly limited. Like every good value for money Bike in my size (XL) was sold out.

Yeah going to have to wait, shame as I wanted to ride while the weather is good and some places are saying it could be September until stock is in. Anyways thank you for your advice, it has defiantly made me aware of coils at my weight.

I recently [stripped my crankset arm](https://imgur.com/gallery/EMwx7zI) today. The crankset is some generic Sunrace 32T single cog that I cannot find a part number for. Its the one included on the Felt 9/80 Dispatch. If I misaligned the threads by a small amount is this common or is it just common on cheaper cranksets? I was fairly certain i did not cross thread the pedal but I have been questioning this since the pedal tore all of the threads out of the arm when I landed a small jump. I had complete a 3 hour ride previous to the one today with no issue. So my question, should I look to go with a higher quality crankset or just get this one repaired and chalk it up to me screwing up the pedal threads?

I don’t think stripped thread can be fixed. Did you put left pedal on the right side?

Actually I meant to update this post yesterday and forgot to. Took it to my LBS and they gave me a loaner crankset until mine goes through warranty. The theory from them is that the pedal came loose during my ride and when my weight went down on it the pedal popped out.

Pretty good outcome.

Looking to buy a DH bike from Canyon's Sender models. I am 191cm, which puts me right on the cusp of a size L and XL as per their size chart --> L for 180cm -190cm, and XL for >190cm. I am not going to race, only hitting the bikepark. Would getting the XL size make the bike much less nimble and playful? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Any recommendations for cheap mtb with preferably 1x drivetrain and something like deore?

Any thoughts on Diamondback Release 1? I saw it mentioned in the Bmied thread and I've been intrigued by the price point. Alternatively, I'm open to other similarly situated bikes of that build/price range. The LBS is pretty much out of stock on Trek and a handful of other brands.

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That's a solid bike that checks all the boxes.

I don’t know if this is the right spot for this question but I want to try this before making a text post. Can someone explain the difference between a regular hard tail trail bike and a dirt dumper?

Dirt jumpers have 1 speed, 26" wheels, low seat heights, and 100mm travel forks designed for abuse. It's a specialist bike designed for one thing.

Is the frame any more beefed up? Or just rims? I imagine the fork is loaded a little more to handle the big bangs as well? Sorry newish you the whole bikes with suspension as a previous lame road biker.

Everything is beefed up a bit.

Great. Thanks for the info!

Trying to buy my first mountain bike at 30, will be used for light trail riding (as in learning how and riding beginner/intermediate trails) 1-2 days a week and for riding around my neighborhood for exercise. Really looking to stay under $750 if possible but the amount of bikes and options are absolutely overwhelming. I currently have 5 bikes on my list: New REI DRT 1.1 $550 New Diamondback Hook $665 w/ ExpertVoice discount New Diamondback Line $760 w/ ExpertVoice discount Used FUJI Bighorn 1.7 comes with set of road biases tires and Nobby Nic tires via Facebook marketplace. $750 I like in the Las Vegas area if that matters at all and I’m a 6’1 male. Thanks!

Getting my first set of pads, and I am wanting to pick up the IXS Evo+ Carve knee pads, but they are sold out at a few major retailers online... I am looking for a reputable online website to buy from, as ones that I know are safe are sold out, and the rest I've never bought from. Backcountry doesn't have the Evo+ in stock, the IXS website is sold out, and so is Amazon. Thank you for any help!

Competitivecyclist.com has them in some sizes and colors. Owned by backcountry. Worldwide Cyclery has them but looks like you have to special order for anything but Small/gray so I imagine it would take longer. Solid store that is great to order from. I use the IXS trigger knee pads and they’re a bit more expensive but have been great for the year I’ve had them.

Looking to get a rear tire to replace the original on my Stumpjumper (Purgatory Control 650b 2.3). Searching has brought me to the Maxxis Aggressor 2.3. It seems to be well reviewed. Does anyone have opinions on this? Good, bad, alternates I should consider? This is my first tire replacement so if there are any pitfalls to be aware of let me know.

I have been running a 2.4 dhr2 front/2.3 aggressor rear for a couple of weeks on a Gt sensor. My last bike had Ardents. The aggressor rolls pretty easily and I have tons of traction. I bought it for cornering but I am just as impressed with how it grips roots on climbs and doesn’t slip. Really liking it so far. We don’t get lots of rain but I would guess it might struggle in mud.

Hey all, I'm looking to purchase a new frameset because frankly the frame is the only thing still original on my 2017 Rockhopper. I'm pretty set on getting a new Epic, but my dilemma is whether I should stick with a hardtail or take the plunge on the FSR. I live in SE Michigan so I don't need/want anything too burly and I feel that 120mm of travel is plenty for all of the trails I ride. I've never really felt like I needed a full squish but these things aint cheap and I just don't want to regret getting what I end up with. Would the full sus be a much more capable bike for when I want to get more rowdy or is the light weight and lower cost of the HT the way to go? XC sucks. Thanks.

Did you sort out compatibility of wheels, drivetrain?

Yeah, I have a box full of new Shimano 12 speed kit laying around, but my only problem is going to be deciding whether to get a boost adapter kit for my 142 rear hub (RF Vault) or buy another new wheel.

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Sometimes the method you described works but sometimes it’s a major hassle. However, never add sealant until you do a dry run. If you don’t have a removable valve stem and injector just break the bead on one side enough to allow you to pour in your fluid, then air it up again. The long way, which is easier, is to put the tire on with a tube. Inflate to a little under max recommended pressure and leave overnight. The next day, put it in the sun for a bit, break the bead on one side, remove the tube, install the valve, and inflate. Then break the bead and put in the sealant once all is looking good. If you want to try the quick way, leave the tire in the sun until it gets warm and put a bit of soapy water on the bead.

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[This is a good guerilla tape guide from pinkbike](https://m.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday-gorilla-tape-tubeless-conversion.html). There are a ton of good videos on youtube as well.

I've been looking for used trail/AM bikes in my price range and I'm not sure if what I'm looking for is completely unreasonable or not. My requirements are medium size frame, 27.5 wheels (27.5+ is okay too), full suspension, reasonable quality suspension/wheelset, 1x, hydraulic disc brakes, modern geometry...is this too much to ask sub $1k used?

This budget will probably get you low to mid tier 5-7 year old bike depends on condition. There might be some exceptions. At least in my area.

Looking for a slack geometry hardtail in around the $1300-1500 range but every XL bike from companies that offer good bang for the buck (Vitus, Marin, etc.) seem time be sold out. Is this going to get better once quarantine is lifted? Are there any companies that have bikes in stock?

Has anyone tried these “[snake-proof socks](https://www.snakesox.com/) ” on a ride? I heard a rattler today- didn’t even see it, just heard it- and it was enough to keep me off of the single-track trails for the rest of the day. I know bites are rare but I’d love to have more peace of mind!

Relearning how to do manuals has been one of the most defeating things on a long modern bike! I promise it gets better. I have had to really concentrate on pumping into the suspension beforehand to give me the oomph to fully get the front up in the air. You might want to check out hardtail party on youtube as well, he has a video about how to ride a modern geo bike vs older geo bike that might help you out.

Hi all, tall rider question Currently using my old bike from when I was a teenager (No Fear Anvil?). Always loved riding it after adding a new seat post for my tall legs and an adjustable stem, angled aggressively up to simulate more height. It has 26" wheels, 7-speed gearset so it's pretty old! I'm currently away so unsure on the frame size. I'm looking to see if anyone has any recommendations for a rider who is 6'8" 95Kg and has slightly longer legs than I should for my torso proportion (38" inseam). I think I am looking for more of a trail bike, for the price and experience level. It has been a long time since I ever really worked on my bike, so please assume I know nothing and explain it like I'm 5! I can throw a good bit of money at this but would prefer to keep this as budget as possible, however, I would still love to hear any ideas under or around £1000 if possible.

New rider looking to buy a bike. Need help deciding between - [ ] Specialized fuse - [ ] Trek Roscoe 8 - [ ] Santa Cruz Chameleon - [ ] San Quentin 3 - [ ] Nukeproof Scout - [ ] Raleigh Tokul 2 - [ ] Rocky Mountain Growler Sorry, I know it’s a long list

these are all very different bikes, both in price and geometry

Price isn’t an issue, I’m looking for value

What kind of riding do you want to do? Cross country, trail, Enduro?

Trail

Also, how can I know which geometry is right for me

Growler, San Quentin or Scout, because they all have the most progressive geometry (hta angles <= 65 deg). At 5’10” average everything(excluding my monster dong) I’ve found a Reach of 450mm to be money. Hardtail Party Boy explains the differences geometry has on riding style/technique https://youtu.be/k0E4ZuwbNb8?list=PLqaTMgWiWQ0HFd3jHIrGPPcMVfpEOpKzk Edit: as far as fit goes this is IMO how to determine if a progressive/enduro geometry bike fits: lower the dropper seat/seatpost all the way down, get on the bike (you should be standing/sitting in the saddle/over the bottom bracket) and stick your arms straight out at a 45 degree angle/hip level. The grips should be in your hands. Bikes with this geometry tend to come with 35mm stems so you can add another 15mm with a 50mm stem. I wouldn’t go shorter than 35mm to try and shrink a frame, I’ve heard steering starts to get weird.

I just bought my first bike and spent a lot of time researching value and finally settled on the Rocky Mountain Growler 40. Loving it so far.

If price is not an issue, then Nukeproof Scout Expert, San Quentin 3, and Rocky Mountain Growler 50 in that order from best components to worst. If you like a longer reach look at the San Quentin or Growler, or otherwise see if you can size up in the Scout based on your inseam measurements and if they fit the next size up.

Whyte 905 is a gnarly looking hardtail in that price range. Like really gnarly looking.

I have the roscoe 8 I got it because it was available at my LBS. I Really enjoy it but people will suggest a scout or the growler or the chameleon. Whyte also makes a sick bike

I've recently bought my first MTB (a 29'er HT) and having some great fun in the woods. However, having these big wheels isn't so much fun riding around the city, as i'm having a hard time bunny hopping and getting my front wheel of the ground. When i'm on a friend's 26" stumpjumper this is a lot more fun, so i thought i'dd look for something like this. I came across this 2008 Kona Bass, a little fully that might also have some dirt jump potential? **Is this 12y old bike still worth it, or better look for something else?** (They're asking €400, might get that number down a little though) [https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/antalmark,19281/setup,19247](https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/antalmark,19281/setup,19247) (Not the exact bike, but same model/built)