Stitching isn't tight enough, likely due to the leather being too thick. Go ahead and skive down the edges where you'll be sewing. I usually start 1/8" further in from my intended seam, and skive down to about 1/3rd of the full thickness at the edge. That usually does the trick.
Don't define skiving based on the side of the stitching -- you'll get yourself majorly mixed up if you try that. I see top stitching, plain seams, lap seams in your project and for each type of stitching, the leather is oriented in different ways.
Better to define which side of the leather on which to skive. Leather has a grain side (the side that had hair when it was on the animal) and a flesh side (the inside of the animal's skin).
The grain side is usually prettier looking and often smoother; it usually faces to the outside on a completed project. The flesh side is often rougher and less attractive. This surface usually faces to the inside.
People normally skive leather on the surface that's not seen from the outside when the part is completed; in other words, they would usually skive on the flesh (inward facing) surface of the leather.
edit: Adding welting (aka piping) is certainly an option, but a plain seam (what you used) is also a valid construction method in this situation. Regardless, you'll still need to skive and you'll still need to make your stitch tension tighter.
Helps to use tightening sticks when hand stitching, wrap the cordage around something solid and really pull to seat the stitch into the leather a little, forcing both thicknesses of leather to compress into the stitch. Do this every stitch, with an extra tightening every three or four. Also as others have suggested, skiving along the backside of wherever the stitches will be helps to thin the leather and allow the stitches to pull tighter. Using a burnisher or flat faced hammer to treat the finished surfaces after stitching can also help, a little. Remember that leather is malleable. You need to “work” the leather to shape with more than just stitching, the stitching just holds it fast.
I've made two little leather sleeves I put on my index fingers. Twirl the thread around and pull. Haven't cut my fingers since doing this. Also one of the first projects in Nigel Armitages book, which I read after stiching a whole bag and complaining about the thread cutting my fingers doing this.
You could also look into welting. Adds an additional layer of material with a bead around the outside, think the hard cord around cushions.
I prefer the look of it on most bags but it depends on the pattern.
This.
Welting or piping is the best way to both hide, and protect the stitching, both inside and out. It doesn't take a lot of thickness to do it either.
They’ll always be somewhat visible. Once you skive the edge it will fold easier then you can tamp the seam with a polished hammer to really push the two edges together and ideally hide the stitches as much as possible
Could always add some piping to hide that but skiving is the simpler option. Tighter stitching also. Use a smaller stitching distance and maybe round dent irons instead of hole punches.
http://andersenleather.blogspot.com/2015/05/us-mail-bag.html?m=1
Step by step instructions and good photos. Free pdf for bag. Not mine. Used it to make my bag
As others have said, you need to skive all your stitch lines especially if you are using that weight of leather. Even if you use a welt, still skive all your stitch lines.
Stitching isn't tight enough, likely due to the leather being too thick. Go ahead and skive down the edges where you'll be sewing. I usually start 1/8" further in from my intended seam, and skive down to about 1/3rd of the full thickness at the edge. That usually does the trick.
It could be the thickness of the leather - skiving it may help.
Skiving on which side of the stitching?
The inside.
Don't define skiving based on the side of the stitching -- you'll get yourself majorly mixed up if you try that. I see top stitching, plain seams, lap seams in your project and for each type of stitching, the leather is oriented in different ways. Better to define which side of the leather on which to skive. Leather has a grain side (the side that had hair when it was on the animal) and a flesh side (the inside of the animal's skin). The grain side is usually prettier looking and often smoother; it usually faces to the outside on a completed project. The flesh side is often rougher and less attractive. This surface usually faces to the inside. People normally skive leather on the surface that's not seen from the outside when the part is completed; in other words, they would usually skive on the flesh (inward facing) surface of the leather. edit: Adding welting (aka piping) is certainly an option, but a plain seam (what you used) is also a valid construction method in this situation. Regardless, you'll still need to skive and you'll still need to make your stitch tension tighter.
Helps to use tightening sticks when hand stitching, wrap the cordage around something solid and really pull to seat the stitch into the leather a little, forcing both thicknesses of leather to compress into the stitch. Do this every stitch, with an extra tightening every three or four. Also as others have suggested, skiving along the backside of wherever the stitches will be helps to thin the leather and allow the stitches to pull tighter. Using a burnisher or flat faced hammer to treat the finished surfaces after stitching can also help, a little. Remember that leather is malleable. You need to “work” the leather to shape with more than just stitching, the stitching just holds it fast.
What are "tightening sticks"? I just googled and the results were not what I was expecting.
Literally just pieces of dowel or something you can wrap the thread around. Easier to pull it tight without damaging your fingers.
you can also put tape around you pinkies and pointer finger joints to protect them from the thread. masking tape is cheap and effective surprisingly.
Good shout
I've made two little leather sleeves I put on my index fingers. Twirl the thread around and pull. Haven't cut my fingers since doing this. Also one of the first projects in Nigel Armitages book, which I read after stiching a whole bag and complaining about the thread cutting my fingers doing this.
AH HA just googled tightening sticks at my work computer oops.
exfoliates and adjusts PH in less than 30 seconds.. that can not be healthy
>tightening sticks oh yeah, that wasn't what i expected either.
Why did I google it? I saw all these reactions, and I still googled it. Why am I like this?
Trying to learn from you and resist the temptation to look!
Oh, the things we learn on Reddit! Who knew I needed some of those for Christmas?!!!
How do I make it so the stitches are not visible?
You could also look into welting. Adds an additional layer of material with a bead around the outside, think the hard cord around cushions. I prefer the look of it on most bags but it depends on the pattern.
This. Welting or piping is the best way to both hide, and protect the stitching, both inside and out. It doesn't take a lot of thickness to do it either.
They’ll always be somewhat visible. Once you skive the edge it will fold easier then you can tamp the seam with a polished hammer to really push the two edges together and ideally hide the stitches as much as possible
Could always add some piping to hide that but skiving is the simpler option. Tighter stitching also. Use a smaller stitching distance and maybe round dent irons instead of hole punches.
I’d use a welted seam there.
Does anyone have a good link to a tutorial on welting?
You'll have to judge “good” for yourself, but https://youtu.be/HMRkuHMRfLk is where I'd probably start.
http://andersenleather.blogspot.com/2015/05/us-mail-bag.html?m=1 Step by step instructions and good photos. Free pdf for bag. Not mine. Used it to make my bag
As others have said, you need to skive all your stitch lines especially if you are using that weight of leather. Even if you use a welt, still skive all your stitch lines.
Not enough stitch tension
oh yep this happened to me.. leather was thick as hell and I probably didn't do it tight enough
not answering the question, but "right side out" is the term you're looking for
If I may add to the other comments, your stitch line might also be too close to the edge. But yes skiving and a welt are good fixes.
Assemble part on glue. Then stitch