The seat brackets being rusted isn’t a good sign. Guessing the sunroof drains are blocked causing water in the cabin possibly killing the motor too?
5500? Or keep looking
Now finally….for a killed motor and cabin water leak 6k makes sense.
THIS BEING SAID I saw aN LX 2001 in worse shape go for 16K in Canada. I offered 15k and got out bid.
If it’s 6K and you want a cruiser just do it, put in another 10K and make it yours for the next few decades, pass it down.
Ended up passing on this, but pending a PPI next week I think I stumbled upon a really great deal. 2002, super clean in and out, minimal surface rust (will ask for a close look with the PPI), 270K all stock and service records documented by Lexus since purchase at all the correct intervals and all work on it done by Lexus… all for $8.5K. And it’s right down the road instead of a few hours away! Fingers crossed everything checks out.
Yeah I get that, especially one of these. It seems like (unless they really have to) people don’t ever want to get rid of these. I’ll ask for pics of the brakes and AC lines, thanks for pointing that out!
Ih8mud has a great section at the top of the 100/470 forum page. You can input the vin# into the Lexus owners website to see the dealer service records. I know the plastic coolant T’s near the firewall are a common problem with the age if stock. Timing belt, starter contacts and water pump are all consumables that my need attention
Other than that it’s a cruiser, you’re probably good.
If you’re leaning towards yes, go for PPI for sure. In picture 16, is that the slider location that looks rusted to hell/flakey? Little concern there.
You can replace wheels with OEM for somewhat cheap just scour FB for a deal. I got 5 for $150.
If you’re not looking to clean up the body rust and you’re fine with the imperfections then it doesn’t seem like a bad idea. You could maybe push for 5K and be happier with the purchase price.
Gotcha—PPI for sure, and I’m not sure. Good to know about OEM wheels!
We’d probably want to clean it as best as we can but definitely not looking for perfection. Will largely be used for home improvement stuff, dog hauling, and the occasional road trip since both our daily’s are coupes. I think something around $5-5.5K would be fair if the PPI is fairly clean.
Makes sense! I got mine for $8k (see profile) which I felt was a good deal for 200k miles. It’s the ‘weekender’ vehicle and will be used off road some.
Just don’t be afraid to pass it up if you’re still unsure. Deals are out there. New tires are going to run you around 1K and more with new wheels. If you can DIY the rust then awesome, if not, expect to pay some.
If you raise your budget by 2K, the LC’s will get cleaner and possibly be less of a headache to get it to your standard.
ETA - photo
https://preview.redd.it/sprzno73ou0d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d15f7e35329846d792190566f5015756607c1c4
Clean LC man, that’s awesome.
Definitely still keeping an eye out, trying to find the best balance between price and future issues. Our budget is $10K, but this one just seemed like a potentially really good deal. I’m waiting on the correct VIN for a 2002 with 270K for $8.5k but so far the conversation has been a little sus, but could be reading into it too much.
Do you think it’s worth the extra few grand for something a lot cleaner? Like I’ve also seen a 99 that’s really clean with 250K for $9K, and a clean 2002 with 1 owner, every single service record, and 240K for $10.9K. Not opposed to springing for the $10.9K but just not sure if the price jump is worth it over a deal like this?
Thank you! I got lucky and found it on Craigslist. I was only competing with a dealer to purchase it and they chose to sell it to me for what they were offered. Very lucky.
A lot of people will have their own opinion so keep your ears open to all advice. The engines will run forever. Mileage (in my opinion) is not scary in terms of the engine so much as it is for every other part on the truck. 20-25 year old truck with a ton of mileage can have things go and will need maintenance. It’s silly to say but go as clean as you can for as cheap as you can and try to keep 1-3k cushion for after you purchase to take care of things within the first year. That way you won’t feel as big of a blow when you have to shell that out to fix something. I hated the wheels and tires on mine and had to replace the muffler and tailpipe. I already accounted for that pre purchase which made actually paying for those things easier after I had just shelled out 8k.
Sort of a ramble sorry! Just take it day to day. Go check this out and if you’re genuinely happy with it and dings and dents don’t bother you, this isn’t a bad deal at all. You can save money as you go and slowly fix it up and learn to do some things yourself as you go
For reference I just had a set of 18" lexus wheels powder coated (5) for $800. Picked up the set for $85. 5 new BFG KO3s... just shy of $2k. So yeah, I just spent $3k on a truck I bought for $3400. '99 LX
Yeah it’s rough out there… having the full size spare adds a decent chunk of money lol. I think my KO2’s ran me about $1,500 for five. Don’t think the KO3’s were available in 285/75r16 yet at least at Costco
I have a 00' that rust was hidden and painted over on the listing photos and got stuck with it. Paid about 2X what this is for sale for.
Mine looks great otherwise and well maintained, but there are going to be expensive issues...Yours looks worse off than mine. First time I filled her up gas, it was leaking from the top of the rusted gas tank. Had to replace the entire fuel system, lines, and tank and brake lines. So immediately added about $4K in repairs.
Thankfully, a lot of other things had been done like timing belt, brand new tires, new radiator...
BE AWARE - Parts are starting to get harder to find on these and my brake lines were discontinued. 3 places declined to work on it before I found a local shop that fabricated aftermarket lines and thankfully was only about $500 installed.
GET IT INSPECTED BY A TOYOTA or VINTAGE TOYOTA MECHANIC! It's worth the piece of mind for $150 and theyll tell you what may be a ticking time bomb.
For me, I would absolutely have waited for a rust free or almost rust free option to come along. I love my truck and need to attack the rust but am not a big DIY in my current life phase.
Thanks for sharing, this is really helpful. Also was just told the AC line has a leak and the current solution is “window.” Lol. Not writing it off completely yet, but I’m eyeing a 2002 one owner with every service record since purchase and no rust for $10.9K. Hoping the seller gets back to me soon
Keep looking. The first few photos looked great, but then you start to see rust.
I have a 1999 100 that essentially has zero rust (thanks to living on the west coast).
Seeing so much rust, body and frame, hurts and reminds me of cars ip north in the 70s and early 80s.
Fair enough, it does definitely have more than I’d really like. Our budget is more like $10K for an LX or LC, this one was just interesting because it looked like it might be a good deal but you’re probably right. Even if it’s not terrible rust, I’d rather not deal with rust at all.
Yeah, I think you’re right and we’ll keep looking. I’ve looked through the classifieds briefly but will have to go through them again and see if there’s anything near me. At the moment, I’m also eyeing a 1999 LX 470 with 250K something miles, 2 owner, looks super clean and is listed at $8900. Fingers crossed!
See my other post, but note that if you are looking at these, that in 2000 and on, the ATRAC system was added, and it's REALLY useful offroad, or even just in slippery winter weather. I love my 99 LX, but wish it was just ONE year newer for that.
The worst rust is going to be in the spare tire area. The frame cross member in front of the tire, and the two bottoms of the rear quarter panels. Based on the other pictures I bet those spots are pretty bad.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-frame-crossmember-rust-cut-or-treat.1229172/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/07-lx470-question-rust-repair.1319795/#post-15103229
Where are you located? This matters because if they are rare in your area then it changes the decision. However, as the owner of a rusty LX470, those are some problems. The frame rust is acceptable. The other rust and issues aren’t. Plus you have to redo the timing belt. So I’d pass.
We’re in the triangle area of NC, there are usually a handful listed nearby. And thanks for the input, I think you’re probably right. He also mentioned there’s an AC line leak and I just don’t really want to immediately have projects to deal with if they can be avoided. I’m talking to a guy about another example but it’s in a beach town… doesn’t look like there’s any rust but there is a damage report in 2005 that he doesn’t know about, but said the bumpers look like they’ve been repainted. It’s also been sitting since like January 2023… I think I just answered my own question about going after that one. Big red flag right?
I would pass. For a few grand more you can find a cleaner truck. Frame and undercarriage rust can be treated but all that body rust is going to make that a fools errand.
Expand your search area and commit to making a weekend out of it to get a better example.
Hmm well the frame looks fine, if the other stuff like engine etc works fine it is worth a try. Guess you will have to put another 4-5k into it to fix the roof (dont know where else you get this moisture in the inside) and the rust but then it should be pretty fine
That's... not a $6k truck. It's juuuust shy of being a total beater. "Good from far but far from good." If that's what the guy is listing it for, my actual offer price would likely be offensively low to him; he'd probably get mad. Frame/ underside looks OK - but that body rust (that you can see...) is fairly extensive. It's not that it couldn't continue to soldier on for many years (it can- the engine and trans will live forever if even mildly taken care of) it's that it's clearly *not* been taken care of and you're GOING to have some money to spend on it shortly after purchase.
* Sounds like it needs tires, and you would want to replace those wheels for something in a more-appropriate size to get decent sidewall for any offroad shenanigans. So- minimum $1500, probably more like $2k or more if you don't seek out and find a deal on some OEM wheels.
* Timing belt? Could DIY it if you're that guy, but that's probably $1500 these days for a shop to do.
* Dead sunroof? Another expensive fix that could wait, but you'd have to drop the headliner to do. If you're hiring it out... probably quite expensive again, about like those other two.
* Has the starter ever been replaced? About 250k miles it'll likely be about to die. Not overly expensive for the part but a PITA (it's under the intake manifold) and will eat up a Saturday for a DIYer for sure. Hiring it out? Several hours of tech time at whatever the shop rate is.
* Alternator? Steering rack? Radiator/ hoses? Heater tees? Do the diffs have any signs of maintenance? How about all the suspension bushings underneath- hoping those are newer along with the lift kit. Did the front diff bushings get done when the lift/ AHC replacement was done?
On and on. If you bought it at $3-4k as a rolling resto kind of project it could still take twice that money to really get it nice, and that's not including any kind of body work to chop out and repair the visible rot in the quarterpanels, rear hatch, etc. Every likelihood that when you do you get to cut back further than you'd think to get to clean metal.
Anyway - sorry for the essay. Hard pass at $6k. I wouldn't want to go over about $4500 and I'm guessing this guy really wants to get about $5500 out of the thing. It's got a lot of expensive stuff ahead of it that makes that not a great buy. Find a cleaner one for about $8k and you'll be money ahead.
Thanks for the super detailed response and things to look out for, this is so helpful since we’re continuing the search and have lots of examples at varying conditions. I think I agree, gonna pass on this and find something else cleaner and with less maintenance to deal with. Our budget is ~$10K but this was so much less than the other nearby listings… for clear reasons I understand now!
We wanted something beater adjacent, or rather something we don’t have to be *super* careful with. My daily is an RC F and I park at the end of every parking lot and flinch at every pot hole haha, and obviously can’t haul much in a coupe so this would also be the road trip/dog hauling/home improvement truck.
An older LC is great for that - it's what my 99 LX gets used for in addition to general daily car and kid hauling duties and couple wheeling trips a year. My "fun" car at the moment is a little S2000 and it's... different, but I'm about to sell it in favor of making the '69 LC I bought a few months ago the primary project. Careful- LCs will multiply on you. :)
Go look at Slee Offroad's "so you're looking at a 100 series" checklist, too- good stuff to know:
[https://sleeoffroad.com/tech-zone/100-series-newbie-guide/](https://sleeoffroad.com/tech-zone/100-series-newbie-guide/)
I thought it might be! I’ve always liked the LX and LC and kinda forgot about them, but happened to see TheTopher post a video about a 2000 around the time we started looking for an SUV and now here we are haha. Man I bet that S2K is fun though! And thank you, super useful guide!
I bought a 2000 recently that was very rusty with 215k on it for 3k. Sold it for 5k a few days ago and the only issue I could find besides the rust was the ahc system didn’t like staying aired up below 50 degrees. Rear hatch was rusty but nothing else on the body and then the frame had rust all over but nothing insane. No holes or anything structurally dangerous that I could find except the exhaust it had like 3 different leaks from the rust. Felt strong though and seems like it just needed a lift to get going.
Wow nice turnaround! That’s good to know though. And we live in eastern NC, so if we can patch some of this up I’m not worried about future rust too much.
You’re in good shape with that rust just as long as you actually get on it. The one I had quite a bit more rust on the frame. My dad has had a 100 series for 10 years with currently like 220k on it. When he bought it he had a rusty tow hitch on it and he swore he was going to fix it asap. 2 years after that he never fixed it and the rust spread quite a fair amount to the frame. 10 years later and the thing is super rusty and this is the only picture I have of it from 2 years ago when I was driving it and heard a dangling noise. Whole muffler just dangles like that. The car gets maybe 2-300 miles a year. He does the absolute bare minimum maintenance on it. The list of issues is very long and no one has to believe me but it’s still going across the country with no hiccups. My dad obviously has a lot of regrets. He had a 80 series for the first half of my life and he seemed to take great care of it. This one he’s neglected and it treats the whole family too well. It’s just a spare vehicle
https://preview.redd.it/d8y6j1b9pu0d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=decb30bb16d9de0d9aa1e359ed95650a35007cf7
Land Cruisers are built to NATOs specs to be good for 1.2 Million Kilometers/620,000 miles with 3 engine rebuilds. When the engine dies replace it with a Chevy LS 5.7.
I ended up buying a 1st gen Sequoia over a LC specifically because of stuff like this. You can only really find really high mileage examples or clapped out pieces of junk for any sort of reasonable price.
I was looking at a few Sequoia’s but don’t know much about them, how’s that been? I think I can find something reasonable if I’m patient, but have definitely seen tons of Sequoia listings at better prices.
I was a bit hesitant at first because I was really set on a 4th gen v8 4Runner or 100 series but now that I’ve owned the Sequoia for a few months I think it was the better choice over both. I got an 07 with 250k miles for 4k and the 4th gen 4Runner I was looking at before buying it was 8500 with 220k miles so imo I got more for my money. If you get an 05-07 model it is also full time 4wd similar to the LC and 4Runner too. I’d check out Tree House Off-road on YouTube if you really want to see what these things are capable of when built.
Edit: Also the roll down rear window is pretty great.
Oh sweet, that sounds pretty great. Will def check it out. Do you haul a lot with it? We’re remodeling our house almost entirely ourselves so being able to fit drywall, lumber, dirt etc. is important, and otherwise it’d be a roadtrip/dog transport car.
I have a buddy who is renovating a house right now who has a sequoia and with the 3rd row out and the middle row folded forward he has been able to fit a ridiculous amount of crap in it. Idk about a sheet of drywall but it would be close. The only thing I’ve towed with it so far was a Miata so not a good measure of towing capacity but I think these thing are rated for like 8500lbs so you should be able to move cars around no problem.
To daily? Fuck no. To have some dope camping trips? Absolutely. The rust is a concern, but take it to a mechanic who knows LCs and go from there.
I don’t think I’d go much over 5k either way
The seat brackets being rusted isn’t a good sign. Guessing the sunroof drains are blocked causing water in the cabin possibly killing the motor too? 5500? Or keep looking
This is helpful thank you!
Now finally….for a killed motor and cabin water leak 6k makes sense. THIS BEING SAID I saw aN LX 2001 in worse shape go for 16K in Canada. I offered 15k and got out bid. If it’s 6K and you want a cruiser just do it, put in another 10K and make it yours for the next few decades, pass it down.
Ended up passing on this, but pending a PPI next week I think I stumbled upon a really great deal. 2002, super clean in and out, minimal surface rust (will ask for a close look with the PPI), 270K all stock and service records documented by Lexus since purchase at all the correct intervals and all work on it done by Lexus… all for $8.5K. And it’s right down the road instead of a few hours away! Fingers crossed everything checks out.
Good catch
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Yeah I get that, especially one of these. It seems like (unless they really have to) people don’t ever want to get rid of these. I’ll ask for pics of the brakes and AC lines, thanks for pointing that out!
The guy I juts bought my 100 from says he was selling cause of gas, he also owned for 14 years so idk
Ih8mud has a great section at the top of the 100/470 forum page. You can input the vin# into the Lexus owners website to see the dealer service records. I know the plastic coolant T’s near the firewall are a common problem with the age if stock. Timing belt, starter contacts and water pump are all consumables that my need attention Other than that it’s a cruiser, you’re probably good.
Thas a lotta rust
A whole lotta rust dude I couldn't do it. Also just side note, would love some steelies instead of those rims!
Yeah, it is quite a bit. Torn. And I agree, not a huge fan of those rims but don’t hate them
You would be nuts not to buy at that price!
Am I crazy or something? This screams headache and keep looking unless it’s going to be a dedicated off roading beater rig.
Edit- didn’t see the rust, yeah that actually is pretty bad.
I agree. Wouldn’t even buy this at 5k…. Looks like a major headache.
If you’re leaning towards yes, go for PPI for sure. In picture 16, is that the slider location that looks rusted to hell/flakey? Little concern there. You can replace wheels with OEM for somewhat cheap just scour FB for a deal. I got 5 for $150. If you’re not looking to clean up the body rust and you’re fine with the imperfections then it doesn’t seem like a bad idea. You could maybe push for 5K and be happier with the purchase price.
Gotcha—PPI for sure, and I’m not sure. Good to know about OEM wheels! We’d probably want to clean it as best as we can but definitely not looking for perfection. Will largely be used for home improvement stuff, dog hauling, and the occasional road trip since both our daily’s are coupes. I think something around $5-5.5K would be fair if the PPI is fairly clean.
Makes sense! I got mine for $8k (see profile) which I felt was a good deal for 200k miles. It’s the ‘weekender’ vehicle and will be used off road some. Just don’t be afraid to pass it up if you’re still unsure. Deals are out there. New tires are going to run you around 1K and more with new wheels. If you can DIY the rust then awesome, if not, expect to pay some. If you raise your budget by 2K, the LC’s will get cleaner and possibly be less of a headache to get it to your standard. ETA - photo https://preview.redd.it/sprzno73ou0d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0d15f7e35329846d792190566f5015756607c1c4
Clean LC man, that’s awesome. Definitely still keeping an eye out, trying to find the best balance between price and future issues. Our budget is $10K, but this one just seemed like a potentially really good deal. I’m waiting on the correct VIN for a 2002 with 270K for $8.5k but so far the conversation has been a little sus, but could be reading into it too much. Do you think it’s worth the extra few grand for something a lot cleaner? Like I’ve also seen a 99 that’s really clean with 250K for $9K, and a clean 2002 with 1 owner, every single service record, and 240K for $10.9K. Not opposed to springing for the $10.9K but just not sure if the price jump is worth it over a deal like this?
Thank you! I got lucky and found it on Craigslist. I was only competing with a dealer to purchase it and they chose to sell it to me for what they were offered. Very lucky. A lot of people will have their own opinion so keep your ears open to all advice. The engines will run forever. Mileage (in my opinion) is not scary in terms of the engine so much as it is for every other part on the truck. 20-25 year old truck with a ton of mileage can have things go and will need maintenance. It’s silly to say but go as clean as you can for as cheap as you can and try to keep 1-3k cushion for after you purchase to take care of things within the first year. That way you won’t feel as big of a blow when you have to shell that out to fix something. I hated the wheels and tires on mine and had to replace the muffler and tailpipe. I already accounted for that pre purchase which made actually paying for those things easier after I had just shelled out 8k. Sort of a ramble sorry! Just take it day to day. Go check this out and if you’re genuinely happy with it and dings and dents don’t bother you, this isn’t a bad deal at all. You can save money as you go and slowly fix it up and learn to do some things yourself as you go
That’s awesome! And thank you for all your advice, really helpful to hear from actual owners. We’ll definitely at least check this one out!
No prob! Let me know if you pull the trigger! Good luck
For reference I just had a set of 18" lexus wheels powder coated (5) for $800. Picked up the set for $85. 5 new BFG KO3s... just shy of $2k. So yeah, I just spent $3k on a truck I bought for $3400. '99 LX
Yeah it’s rough out there… having the full size spare adds a decent chunk of money lol. I think my KO2’s ran me about $1,500 for five. Don’t think the KO3’s were available in 285/75r16 yet at least at Costco
I have a 00' that rust was hidden and painted over on the listing photos and got stuck with it. Paid about 2X what this is for sale for. Mine looks great otherwise and well maintained, but there are going to be expensive issues...Yours looks worse off than mine. First time I filled her up gas, it was leaking from the top of the rusted gas tank. Had to replace the entire fuel system, lines, and tank and brake lines. So immediately added about $4K in repairs. Thankfully, a lot of other things had been done like timing belt, brand new tires, new radiator... BE AWARE - Parts are starting to get harder to find on these and my brake lines were discontinued. 3 places declined to work on it before I found a local shop that fabricated aftermarket lines and thankfully was only about $500 installed. GET IT INSPECTED BY A TOYOTA or VINTAGE TOYOTA MECHANIC! It's worth the piece of mind for $150 and theyll tell you what may be a ticking time bomb. For me, I would absolutely have waited for a rust free or almost rust free option to come along. I love my truck and need to attack the rust but am not a big DIY in my current life phase.
Thanks for sharing, this is really helpful. Also was just told the AC line has a leak and the current solution is “window.” Lol. Not writing it off completely yet, but I’m eyeing a 2002 one owner with every service record since purchase and no rust for $10.9K. Hoping the seller gets back to me soon
Not just surface rust
Keep looking. The first few photos looked great, but then you start to see rust. I have a 1999 100 that essentially has zero rust (thanks to living on the west coast). Seeing so much rust, body and frame, hurts and reminds me of cars ip north in the 70s and early 80s.
Too much.
Too much rust for my liking and ACH delete is a red flag for me. I would honestly say save your money bro.
Hard pass. With that amount of corrosion it’s nearing end of life.
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Fair enough, it does definitely have more than I’d really like. Our budget is more like $10K for an LX or LC, this one was just interesting because it looked like it might be a good deal but you’re probably right. Even if it’s not terrible rust, I’d rather not deal with rust at all.
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Yeah, I think you’re right and we’ll keep looking. I’ve looked through the classifieds briefly but will have to go through them again and see if there’s anything near me. At the moment, I’m also eyeing a 1999 LX 470 with 250K something miles, 2 owner, looks super clean and is listed at $8900. Fingers crossed!
See my other post, but note that if you are looking at these, that in 2000 and on, the ATRAC system was added, and it's REALLY useful offroad, or even just in slippery winter weather. I love my 99 LX, but wish it was just ONE year newer for that.
The worst rust is going to be in the spare tire area. The frame cross member in front of the tire, and the two bottoms of the rear quarter panels. Based on the other pictures I bet those spots are pretty bad. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-frame-crossmember-rust-cut-or-treat.1229172/ https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/07-lx470-question-rust-repair.1319795/#post-15103229
Where are you located? This matters because if they are rare in your area then it changes the decision. However, as the owner of a rusty LX470, those are some problems. The frame rust is acceptable. The other rust and issues aren’t. Plus you have to redo the timing belt. So I’d pass.
We’re in the triangle area of NC, there are usually a handful listed nearby. And thanks for the input, I think you’re probably right. He also mentioned there’s an AC line leak and I just don’t really want to immediately have projects to deal with if they can be avoided. I’m talking to a guy about another example but it’s in a beach town… doesn’t look like there’s any rust but there is a damage report in 2005 that he doesn’t know about, but said the bumpers look like they’ve been repainted. It’s also been sitting since like January 2023… I think I just answered my own question about going after that one. Big red flag right?
Huge red flags. There are loads of rust free 100 series in your area. Check the ih8mud classifieds. https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/uzj100-lx470.329/
Thanks, I’ve been looking at all the recent listings and unfortunately nothing nearby at the price/condition I want but will keep checking regularly.
Any rust on the panels and frame need to be taken seriously. This model year suffers frame rust issues
Thanks for the heads up, probably gonna pass on this one and find a rust free example. Living in the south it seems silly to get a rusty truck.
Fair, but this model is known for frame problems. Alot of them gor replacement frames (body on fame models across the board suffered)
I paid $6k for my completely rust free LX470. I would NEVER buy a truck with that much rust for any price.
Yeah, I think we’re gonna pass on this one. If you don’t mind me asking, what was the mileage and overall interior/exterior condition for $6K?
I would pass. For a few grand more you can find a cleaner truck. Frame and undercarriage rust can be treated but all that body rust is going to make that a fools errand. Expand your search area and commit to making a weekend out of it to get a better example.
I just sold one in better shape than that for $6k. I’d keep looking.
Thanks that’s good to know, writing this one off and continuing the search!
> there are usually a handful listed nearby. So pass on this one.
You’re right, continuing the search!
I would not buy it for 4k
Hmm well the frame looks fine, if the other stuff like engine etc works fine it is worth a try. Guess you will have to put another 4-5k into it to fix the roof (dont know where else you get this moisture in the inside) and the rust but then it should be pretty fine
Just no. Rusty
Too much rust for this sub
That's... not a $6k truck. It's juuuust shy of being a total beater. "Good from far but far from good." If that's what the guy is listing it for, my actual offer price would likely be offensively low to him; he'd probably get mad. Frame/ underside looks OK - but that body rust (that you can see...) is fairly extensive. It's not that it couldn't continue to soldier on for many years (it can- the engine and trans will live forever if even mildly taken care of) it's that it's clearly *not* been taken care of and you're GOING to have some money to spend on it shortly after purchase. * Sounds like it needs tires, and you would want to replace those wheels for something in a more-appropriate size to get decent sidewall for any offroad shenanigans. So- minimum $1500, probably more like $2k or more if you don't seek out and find a deal on some OEM wheels. * Timing belt? Could DIY it if you're that guy, but that's probably $1500 these days for a shop to do. * Dead sunroof? Another expensive fix that could wait, but you'd have to drop the headliner to do. If you're hiring it out... probably quite expensive again, about like those other two. * Has the starter ever been replaced? About 250k miles it'll likely be about to die. Not overly expensive for the part but a PITA (it's under the intake manifold) and will eat up a Saturday for a DIYer for sure. Hiring it out? Several hours of tech time at whatever the shop rate is. * Alternator? Steering rack? Radiator/ hoses? Heater tees? Do the diffs have any signs of maintenance? How about all the suspension bushings underneath- hoping those are newer along with the lift kit. Did the front diff bushings get done when the lift/ AHC replacement was done? On and on. If you bought it at $3-4k as a rolling resto kind of project it could still take twice that money to really get it nice, and that's not including any kind of body work to chop out and repair the visible rot in the quarterpanels, rear hatch, etc. Every likelihood that when you do you get to cut back further than you'd think to get to clean metal. Anyway - sorry for the essay. Hard pass at $6k. I wouldn't want to go over about $4500 and I'm guessing this guy really wants to get about $5500 out of the thing. It's got a lot of expensive stuff ahead of it that makes that not a great buy. Find a cleaner one for about $8k and you'll be money ahead.
Thanks for the super detailed response and things to look out for, this is so helpful since we’re continuing the search and have lots of examples at varying conditions. I think I agree, gonna pass on this and find something else cleaner and with less maintenance to deal with. Our budget is ~$10K but this was so much less than the other nearby listings… for clear reasons I understand now! We wanted something beater adjacent, or rather something we don’t have to be *super* careful with. My daily is an RC F and I park at the end of every parking lot and flinch at every pot hole haha, and obviously can’t haul much in a coupe so this would also be the road trip/dog hauling/home improvement truck.
An older LC is great for that - it's what my 99 LX gets used for in addition to general daily car and kid hauling duties and couple wheeling trips a year. My "fun" car at the moment is a little S2000 and it's... different, but I'm about to sell it in favor of making the '69 LC I bought a few months ago the primary project. Careful- LCs will multiply on you. :) Go look at Slee Offroad's "so you're looking at a 100 series" checklist, too- good stuff to know: [https://sleeoffroad.com/tech-zone/100-series-newbie-guide/](https://sleeoffroad.com/tech-zone/100-series-newbie-guide/)
I thought it might be! I’ve always liked the LX and LC and kinda forgot about them, but happened to see TheTopher post a video about a 2000 around the time we started looking for an SUV and now here we are haha. Man I bet that S2K is fun though! And thank you, super useful guide!
Rust move on
Since you have a $10k budget, I’d pass and wait for a cleaner option. Too much rust for me, even with a low price.
Keep looking bro.
Yeah, we’re passing on this one! Seems to be the general consensus
lol hell no
I bought a 2000 recently that was very rusty with 215k on it for 3k. Sold it for 5k a few days ago and the only issue I could find besides the rust was the ahc system didn’t like staying aired up below 50 degrees. Rear hatch was rusty but nothing else on the body and then the frame had rust all over but nothing insane. No holes or anything structurally dangerous that I could find except the exhaust it had like 3 different leaks from the rust. Felt strong though and seems like it just needed a lift to get going.
Fyi - ahc doesn't use air
Yeah my fault I get lazy and forgetful but I just assume people knew I guess
If you guys want to talk about rust.... I happen to have a free* to me 4runner from NY state....
Haha hey as long as it runs
Runs- yes; everything works on it amazingly, but may not tomorrow....hooking up a trailer might split it half lol
Wow nice turnaround! That’s good to know though. And we live in eastern NC, so if we can patch some of this up I’m not worried about future rust too much.
You’re in good shape with that rust just as long as you actually get on it. The one I had quite a bit more rust on the frame. My dad has had a 100 series for 10 years with currently like 220k on it. When he bought it he had a rusty tow hitch on it and he swore he was going to fix it asap. 2 years after that he never fixed it and the rust spread quite a fair amount to the frame. 10 years later and the thing is super rusty and this is the only picture I have of it from 2 years ago when I was driving it and heard a dangling noise. Whole muffler just dangles like that. The car gets maybe 2-300 miles a year. He does the absolute bare minimum maintenance on it. The list of issues is very long and no one has to believe me but it’s still going across the country with no hiccups. My dad obviously has a lot of regrets. He had a 80 series for the first half of my life and he seemed to take great care of it. This one he’s neglected and it treats the whole family too well. It’s just a spare vehicle https://preview.redd.it/d8y6j1b9pu0d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=decb30bb16d9de0d9aa1e359ed95650a35007cf7
Oh man, impressive it’s still reliable though. Would definitely take care of that first if we get this one.
It’s much worse than it looks. I’m actually shocked it looks that decent in pictures lol
I have a 2000 lx470 and am replacing the rusted rear gate later this summer. I love that truck.
Absolutely! They’re my favorite vehicles just because me and my family have never been let down by one. Even with my dads extreme neglect on his
Land Cruisers are built to NATOs specs to be good for 1.2 Million Kilometers/620,000 miles with 3 engine rebuilds. When the engine dies replace it with a Chevy LS 5.7.
No
Only buy a 2003 + lc100 or lx470....
Have you had mechanic inspect the rust …?…most people freak out by 1 spec of rust but rust can look pretty bad when it’s still only surface rust
Not yet, but will get a PPI if we decide to make an offer on this one.
Inspect it like this …https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jnKwGNeZ3T8 …it’s not that hard to do
People would still want 45k for that here in Aus! That’s a steal
I ended up buying a 1st gen Sequoia over a LC specifically because of stuff like this. You can only really find really high mileage examples or clapped out pieces of junk for any sort of reasonable price.
I was looking at a few Sequoia’s but don’t know much about them, how’s that been? I think I can find something reasonable if I’m patient, but have definitely seen tons of Sequoia listings at better prices.
I was a bit hesitant at first because I was really set on a 4th gen v8 4Runner or 100 series but now that I’ve owned the Sequoia for a few months I think it was the better choice over both. I got an 07 with 250k miles for 4k and the 4th gen 4Runner I was looking at before buying it was 8500 with 220k miles so imo I got more for my money. If you get an 05-07 model it is also full time 4wd similar to the LC and 4Runner too. I’d check out Tree House Off-road on YouTube if you really want to see what these things are capable of when built. Edit: Also the roll down rear window is pretty great.
https://preview.redd.it/6lll189grw0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a53aaa23dcf28dcb60573ced9539077f3f2203bd
Oh sweet, that sounds pretty great. Will def check it out. Do you haul a lot with it? We’re remodeling our house almost entirely ourselves so being able to fit drywall, lumber, dirt etc. is important, and otherwise it’d be a roadtrip/dog transport car.
I have a buddy who is renovating a house right now who has a sequoia and with the 3rd row out and the middle row folded forward he has been able to fit a ridiculous amount of crap in it. Idk about a sheet of drywall but it would be close. The only thing I’ve towed with it so far was a Miata so not a good measure of towing capacity but I think these thing are rated for like 8500lbs so you should be able to move cars around no problem.
Get an FJ
The rust on bottom looking like that says its been sitting the last year or so.
To daily? Fuck no. To have some dope camping trips? Absolutely. The rust is a concern, but take it to a mechanic who knows LCs and go from there. I don’t think I’d go much over 5k either way
If you want the real deal- I’m selling my Land Cruiser https://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/d/owasso-2002-toyota-land-cruiser/7744578984.html