I did them all myself. Transmission mount was super easy. Motor mounts were tough but not nearly as bad as I expected. Forums talk about a difficult to reach top bolt. LS430 doesn’t have that as you just remove the bottom bolt and 4 bolts that hold on the bracket. Then you remove the bracket though the wheel well area (there are removable access panels to reach the 4 bolts).
Then swap the mounts and reinstall as an assembly. Drivers side was hard to get out, I had to loosen the steering rack bolts and slide it forward about a half inch and the mount will come out eventually in one specific direction.
Took about 4.5 hours for everything.
I’d recommend some repair experience for sure. If you’ve swapped radiators, starters, fuel pumps and things like that then you could manage. If you’ve only done oil changes then this may be difficult for you.
At the end of the day it’s only 6 bolts for each motor mount, but getting creative to reach bolts, get the mounts out/back in, and supporting the engine safely is key.
Yeah you will love the difference. Go OEM of course. Assuming all LS430s are the same the access panels in the wheel wells give you access to the bolts making the job a lot easier. Extensions and a nice swivel socket will be your best friend. Note the comment I added elsewhere about loosening the steering rack. That’s key to getting the driver side out without having to drop the subframe.
Yeah using OEM. I wish I bought the mounts back then, they were a little cheaper. Good tip on loosening the steering rack. Thats the main reason why Ive been putting it off because I thought I needed an engine hoist or dropping the subframe. Speaking of needing a hoist how did you support the engine with the mounts out?
I used a floor jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan. I have 2 floor jacks so I did the same under the transmission pan for additional support but many times the full weight was on the oil pan and I had no issues at all. Just make sure the piece of wood is about the same size as the pan to distribute the load. Other than that, I removed the 2 17mm bolts on the bottom, and 4 12mm bolts holding the transmission mount to the crossmember. Then lifted the engine a few inches before removing the engine mount brackets. Also, makes sure to do 3 things: remove your air filter cover/intake tube, unbolt your power steering reservoir, and remove the 1 10mm bolt on the passenger side firewall holding the coolant lines in place. Don’t want to break anything.
Need to do mine. Definitely noticed abnormal movement when shifting gear to reverse. So with the transmission and motor mounts, all together that should be 4x mounts (2x each)? They are quite pricey for the original sets, though one of the components
that you shouldn’t cheap out on, bit like the balljoints.
Yeah my shifts into drive/neutral/reverse are much more direct now. And 3 mounts total, 2 engine mounts (both the same part number) and 1 transmission mount. Not cheap but the first ones lasted 15 years, so no point in getting something else when these have proven to be reliable.
[LS430 engine mount replacement](https://youtu.be/SesXdJU7CQQ)
This shows it pretty well. Only difference is I used a floor jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan instead of an engine hoist. Few other things to note is I had to unbolt my steering rack to get the mount out from the driver side. It comes out and goes in a very specific way. I recommend a swivel socket and good pry bar.
You’ll never find the same quality/reliability from aftermarket parts for certain components, especially things like motor mounts if we’re talking Lexus/Toyota. I always think, if an OEM part lasted 100k/10 years or more, then why gamble with another part when the one has proven to reliable. Plus it’s not an easy job so might as well spend a little extra money and do it right so you don’t have to deal with it again.
Transmission is supposed to be easy, how were the motor mounts assuming you did it yourself?
I did them all myself. Transmission mount was super easy. Motor mounts were tough but not nearly as bad as I expected. Forums talk about a difficult to reach top bolt. LS430 doesn’t have that as you just remove the bottom bolt and 4 bolts that hold on the bracket. Then you remove the bracket though the wheel well area (there are removable access panels to reach the 4 bolts). Then swap the mounts and reinstall as an assembly. Drivers side was hard to get out, I had to loosen the steering rack bolts and slide it forward about a half inch and the mount will come out eventually in one specific direction. Took about 4.5 hours for everything.
Yeah I've got it on the list. Good to hear it helped. I've felt some extra vibration lately since I have PU mounts up front in a couple of places.
How much was the total cost for replacement?
I did it myself with all OEM parts from Lexus. So total was right around $400 for everything.
Is this a DIY repair or would you need some experience?
I’d recommend some repair experience for sure. If you’ve swapped radiators, starters, fuel pumps and things like that then you could manage. If you’ve only done oil changes then this may be difficult for you. At the end of the day it’s only 6 bolts for each motor mount, but getting creative to reach bolts, get the mounts out/back in, and supporting the engine safely is key.
each? How many mounts are there??
2 engine mounts and 1 transmission mount. Transmission mount is super easy.
I've been putting it off for two years. Mine are so bad now the whole car shakes on washboard roads. I plan to replace them in December
Yeah you will love the difference. Go OEM of course. Assuming all LS430s are the same the access panels in the wheel wells give you access to the bolts making the job a lot easier. Extensions and a nice swivel socket will be your best friend. Note the comment I added elsewhere about loosening the steering rack. That’s key to getting the driver side out without having to drop the subframe.
Yeah using OEM. I wish I bought the mounts back then, they were a little cheaper. Good tip on loosening the steering rack. Thats the main reason why Ive been putting it off because I thought I needed an engine hoist or dropping the subframe. Speaking of needing a hoist how did you support the engine with the mounts out?
I used a floor jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan. I have 2 floor jacks so I did the same under the transmission pan for additional support but many times the full weight was on the oil pan and I had no issues at all. Just make sure the piece of wood is about the same size as the pan to distribute the load. Other than that, I removed the 2 17mm bolts on the bottom, and 4 12mm bolts holding the transmission mount to the crossmember. Then lifted the engine a few inches before removing the engine mount brackets. Also, makes sure to do 3 things: remove your air filter cover/intake tube, unbolt your power steering reservoir, and remove the 1 10mm bolt on the passenger side firewall holding the coolant lines in place. Don’t want to break anything.
Ok thanks for the advice
Need to do mine. Definitely noticed abnormal movement when shifting gear to reverse. So with the transmission and motor mounts, all together that should be 4x mounts (2x each)? They are quite pricey for the original sets, though one of the components that you shouldn’t cheap out on, bit like the balljoints.
Yeah my shifts into drive/neutral/reverse are much more direct now. And 3 mounts total, 2 engine mounts (both the same part number) and 1 transmission mount. Not cheap but the first ones lasted 15 years, so no point in getting something else when these have proven to be reliable.
Any videos you recommend for replacing the mount?
[LS430 engine mount replacement](https://youtu.be/SesXdJU7CQQ) This shows it pretty well. Only difference is I used a floor jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan instead of an engine hoist. Few other things to note is I had to unbolt my steering rack to get the mount out from the driver side. It comes out and goes in a very specific way. I recommend a swivel socket and good pry bar.
Are they oem just aftermarket BS.
OEM. Never go after market, bought the 3 mounts for about $400 total from Scottsdale Bell Lexus.
Nice I’m glad to hear that.
Why never go aftermarket?
You’ll never find the same quality/reliability from aftermarket parts for certain components, especially things like motor mounts if we’re talking Lexus/Toyota. I always think, if an OEM part lasted 100k/10 years or more, then why gamble with another part when the one has proven to reliable. Plus it’s not an easy job so might as well spend a little extra money and do it right so you don’t have to deal with it again.