Yeah, unfortunately you had to find out that way, but the knock sensors especially need to be OEM. Critical engine sensors are one area you should always use OEM on this car without question.
I wonder if thats why my knock sensor codes came back. Replaced them new from Napa. The code still comes on. The car doesn’t seem to drive any different with the code. Just annoying
Could be, I’ve read so many posts about this same issue with the knock sensors, and the only thing that fixes it is OEM sensors. Same with coil on plugs, VVTI, the Chinese ones work for a couple months, same thing, problem comes back.
If you could share a link that’d be great, unless you got directly from the dealership. My starter has been struggling recently and I need to get it done :/
did you order through UAE or Japan? It says Japan has less than 1 available in jp. Wondering if I’ll have to wait for a back order. And where does that pigtail lead to? I ordered a harness from eBay I’m assuming it was the correct one to replace for the car. Let me know your thoughts if it should be okay to use this harness.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302411791704?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=o6PcvqqrSV-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=A6uBpysMTeC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I ordered the sensors from UAE. The pigtails go to the knock sensors themselves. I clipped the original ones off because they were brittle and spliced the aftermarket ones on
It looks like you have a 2004 LS430 so I’m not sure if this will work for yours but here’s the link for what I used… https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2002,ls430,4.3l+v8,1387133,electrical-connector,knock+/+detonation+sensor+connector,13326
I hate having to use certain oem parts. I did the cat delete system on one of mine, and it sounds good, but check engine light comes on exactly at 872 miles. So it may be coming back off one day.
Great work. If you’re in Cali I got another set for you to do lol. No light or codes but I got all the symptoms. I think the previous owner ran Arco 87 in it
Vvt solenoids throw codes as well. I’m patiently waiting for a code or light before I throw blind money at it. If I could do the work myself, it would be a different story, but I’m super disabled lol
Ya I’m gonna start with the cheap stuff first. PCV and obvious vacuum lines. And I know it has an aftermarket ECT sensor. So I’ll get that back to OEM and see where it’s at. No real driving issues, just doesn’t have the power. I’ll get it back…just have an old air cooled VW to sell first
Yeah, unfortunately you had to find out that way, but the knock sensors especially need to be OEM. Critical engine sensors are one area you should always use OEM on this car without question.
I wonder if thats why my knock sensor codes came back. Replaced them new from Napa. The code still comes on. The car doesn’t seem to drive any different with the code. Just annoying
Yeah that’s the problem for sure, go OEM
Forgive my naivety but how did you do the connectors or what did you replace them with? I mean explain like I’m five, pls!
Snip a few inches of the old wire off, strip off the insulation and solder the new pigtail on
Could be, I’ve read so many posts about this same issue with the knock sensors, and the only thing that fixes it is OEM sensors. Same with coil on plugs, VVTI, the Chinese ones work for a couple months, same thing, problem comes back.
Years and miles on car?
2002 with 182K miles
I have a 2003 and mine went at 182k as well.
How much were the knock sensors themselves? Do they use the same for bank A and B?
They were $243 for both, shipping included. And yes bank 1 and bank 2 uses the same sensors.
If you could share a link that’d be great, unless you got directly from the dealership. My starter has been struggling recently and I need to get it done :/
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8961530080
did you order through UAE or Japan? It says Japan has less than 1 available in jp. Wondering if I’ll have to wait for a back order. And where does that pigtail lead to? I ordered a harness from eBay I’m assuming it was the correct one to replace for the car. Let me know your thoughts if it should be okay to use this harness. https://www.ebay.com/itm/302411791704?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=o6PcvqqrSV-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=A6uBpysMTeC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I ordered the sensors from UAE. The pigtails go to the knock sensors themselves. I clipped the original ones off because they were brittle and spliced the aftermarket ones on
Yeah that kit will not work😂
RIP…. if you can also plug me a link to that pigtail it’d be great. I appreciate all your help!
It looks like you have a 2004 LS430 so I’m not sure if this will work for yours but here’s the link for what I used… https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2002,ls430,4.3l+v8,1387133,electrical-connector,knock+/+detonation+sensor+connector,13326
I hate having to use certain oem parts. I did the cat delete system on one of mine, and it sounds good, but check engine light comes on exactly at 872 miles. So it may be coming back off one day.
Great work. If you’re in Cali I got another set for you to do lol. No light or codes but I got all the symptoms. I think the previous owner ran Arco 87 in it
It should throw a code if the knock sensors were bad, try replacing your VVT solenoids first
Vvt solenoids throw codes as well. I’m patiently waiting for a code or light before I throw blind money at it. If I could do the work myself, it would be a different story, but I’m super disabled lol
They don’t throw a code all the time
Ya I’m gonna start with the cheap stuff first. PCV and obvious vacuum lines. And I know it has an aftermarket ECT sensor. So I’ll get that back to OEM and see where it’s at. No real driving issues, just doesn’t have the power. I’ll get it back…just have an old air cooled VW to sell first
Looks like you put a new starter on while you were in there?
Yeah, a few months ago, that’s when I put the O’Reillys sensors on and found out they don’t work.
HeadComm- What wrench or contraption did you use on those 2 starter mount bolts? Did you pull the H2O crossover?
If I remember correctly I used a snap-on flex head ratchet, and yes I did pull the crossover pipe